Watch Call of the Wild Sunday, January 10,

on the National Geographic Channel

Melting Arctic

Rubber Boom

Vultures

MORE VITAL THAN VILE

JANUARY 2016

THE
POWER
OF PARKS
A yearlong celebration of our common ground

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Get involved, and see the documentary series at subaru.com/environment.

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The future
of our parks
rests in the
hands of
our kids.
AMERICAS NATIONAL PARKS teach invaluable lessons about our planet, our history,
and ourselves. In the past 100 years, our parks have become treasured landmarks for
recreation, classrooms for biodiversity, shining examples of our countrys great outdoor
spaces, and bridges connecting us to the world of nature. However, if we want to keep
them unspoiled for 100 more years, we need to educate the next generation to be
stewards for their preservation.

Did you know, each year visitors to our National Parks

generate 100 million pounds of trash?
Thats why, with support from Subaru, National Geographic has developed a series of
engaging educational activities, designed to inspire and guide the next generation
of national park visitors and outdoor adventurers. Learning how to explore green spaces,
discovering how to read maps, and understanding how to keep our parks clean are just
some of the lessons we can teach our younger generation.
Teach the next generation how our actions impact nature and the most responsible
way to enjoy, care for, and preserve our parks for the future. To download these
free educational materials, visit natgeoed.org/loveyourpark.

WITH SUPPORT FROM

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january 2016 vol. 229 no. 1

Flies swarm the head

and mat the chest of
this Rppells vulture,
photographed in the
Serengeti National Park
in Tanzania.

70 Bloody Good

Vultures seem vile, dining on the dead. But Earth desperately needs these birds.
By Elizabeth Royte

Photographs by Charlie Hamilton James

24

48

98

This Land Is Your Land

As Americas national
park system turns 100,
we celebrate and relect
with a yearlong series.

This Is Your Brain

on Nature
Spending time in the
natural world beneits
human brains.

Into Thin Ice

Earth cools when sunlight
relects off Arctic sea ice
which is melting away.
Where does that leave us?

Riding Rubbers Boom

The rising global demand
for car tires may pay off
for Southeast Asias poor,
but at a cost to the planet.

By David Quammen
Photographs by Stephen Wilkes

By Florence Williams
Photographs by Lucas Foglia

By Andy Isaacson
Photographs by Nick Cobbing

By Charles C. Mann
Photographs by Richard Barnes

138 Proof | Kingdom of Girls

Young women in a matrilineal society
preserve an old tradition.
By Jeremy Berlin

Photographs by Karolin Klppel

118

On the Cover By digitally combining some of the 1,036 images he

took over 26 hours, Stephen Wilkes created this day-to-night scene of
Yosemite National Park in California. Composite photo by Stephen Wilkes
Corrections and Clarications Go to ngm.com/more.

O F F I C I A L J O U R N A L O F T H E N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C S O C I ET Y

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FROM THE EDITOR

National Parks

For the Peoples Benet

With her husband,

Geoffrey Etnire,
Susan Goldberg
visited geysers and
other natural wonders in Yellowstone.

After 55 years of travel across the country and around the world, last year
I nally made it to one of Americas iconic placesYellowstone, the rst
national park and the ideal of what protected lands should be for sheer
grandeur, conservation, and outreach. Why did I wait so long?
The inscription on the Roosevelt Arch, at Yellowstones north entrance,
is a quote from the act that created the park in 1872: For the Benet and
Enjoyment of the People. Those words ring true today. Joining a half dozen
National Geographic photographers assigned to
shoot the Greater Yellowstone ecosystem from the
Grand Tetons in Wyoming to its northern border in
Montana, my husband and I canoed tranquil rivers
searching for otters. We hiked a landscape alive with
burbling pools and spouting geysers. We spotted
wolves, eagles, and bison. We returned to our real
lives renewed, grateful for the time, the quiet, the
beautyand more mindful than ever of the urgent
need to preserve these lands and animals.
That urgency informs and inspires this issue. It
celebrates the 100th anniversary of the National Park
Service and kicks of our yearlong exploration of what
writer and environmentalist Wallace Stegner called
the best idea we ever had.
National Geographic and the parks share a rich history, beginning with the magazines founding in 1888.
Perhaps the most signicant event in that history was
a two-week trip into the Sierra Nevada that Gilbert H. Grosvenor, the magazines longtime editor, took with the industrialist-outdoorsman Stephen
Mather. Devoting the entire April 1916 issue to what he had seen, Grosvenor
exhorted readers to cherish the richness of wilderness and support an agency to preserve and manage it. Then he went one step further, sending a copy
of that Land of the Best issue to each member of Congress. The federal law
establishing the National Park Service passed almost ve months later.
In this centennial year National Geographic will examine the state of the
408 U.S. national parks as well as parks around the globe. With unmatched
photography, historical expertise, and robust digital storytelling, well look
at everything from parks threatened by development and climate change to
whether Millennials will unplug long enough to connect with nature. And
in May well devote a special issue entirely to Yellowstone.
We hope you enjoy our parks stories, in this issue and all year. Thank you
for reading National Geographic.

Susan Goldberg, Editor in Chief

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PHOTO: MICHAEL NICHOLS, NGM STAFF

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We believe in the power of science, exploration, and storytelling to change the world.
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Chris Johns

PRESIDENT AND CEO

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national geographic jan uary 2 0 1 6

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EVP INTERNATIONAL CONTENT:

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Hamish Mykura

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3 Questions

nationalgeographic.com/3Q

to ght against poverty.

We need better governance
on this planet. I think this
is where explorers really
need to focus. Thats really
the challenge of the 21st
century.
We see only your work
that goes right. How
much of it goes wrong?
Even when you have plans,
things happen as they happen. If everything happens
according to plan, its a
business plan, not an adventure. Exploration is not only
when you have a big success
and can wave the ag of
triumph. Exploration has
a lot to do with preparation,
frustration, disappointment, and unpredictability.
When you accept all of
that, then maybe you can
get to a success.

W
 hy I Explore,
and Why You
Should Too
Swiss pilot Bertrand Piccard is a thirdgeneration explorer. His father was an undersea
scientist, his grandfather a balloonist. Now 57,
Piccard circled the world in a propane-powered
balloon in 1999, then turned to a cleaner goal:
making the trip on solar power alone. His
aircraft, Solar Impulse 2, will continue its light,
from Hawaii to the U.S. mainland, this spring.

Youve done work all over

the planet. Where is exploration needed most?
Quality of life. If you look
at the ocean, Earth, and
space, theres been a lot of
exploration in those places.
But now we have to conquer
the quality of life on this
planet. Humankind is at
a crossroads: If we want
to survive, we need clean
technology and renewable
energies. But we also need
human rights. We need
medical research. We need

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Whats your advice to

young explorers?
Explorers are famous people. When youre famous, its
your responsibility to help
other people live better and
protect their environment
and actively contribute to
the wealth of the world. For
example, next I may work
on a remote-controlled
plane that would replace
satellites. It would be a
cheap solutiona way for
developing countries to have
telecommunications, mobile
phones, and Wi-Fi. When
youre an explorer, dont do
it only for yourself. Do it to
be useful to humankind.
PHOTO: LUCA LOCATELLI

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EXPLORE
Nat Geo Wild

A
B
B
A

national geographic Jan uary 2 0 1 6

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WorldMags.net
B

To Flap
or Glide?

B
B

Walk through the understory

of a neotropical rain forest
and youll see an unusual
sightbrown or clear-winged
butterlies gliding just above
the forest loor, like leaves
loating on a stream, says
University of New Orleans
entomologist Phil DeVries.
Theyre demonstrating
something called the ground
effect. Its an aerodynamic
phenomenon that occurs
whenever wings are near a
ixed surface, which increases
lift and decreases drag. If
youve been on a plane as
it lands, you may have felt a
brief loating sensation. Thats
the ground effect.
In a recently published
study, DeVries and colleagues
found that all but one species
of Haeterini butterlies glide
near the ground in this
energy-eficient manner.
Their evolutionary secret:
forewings longer than those
of their relatives, which favor
lapping light. Jeremy Berlin

Buttery Forewing Shape

A. Flapping
light
More than
ive inches
above the
ground

Sex, habitat, and wing shape

(right) separate the lappers
(A group) from the gliders (B
group) in Haeterini butterlies
and their Satyrini relatives.
All butterlies are shown to scale.

B. Gliding
light
Less than
ive inches
above the
ground

PHOTOS: REBECCA HALE, NGM STAFF, AT DEPARTMENT OF ENTOMOLOGY, NATIONAL MUSEUM OF NATURAL
HISTORY, SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION. GRAPHIC: NGM ART. SOURCE: PHIL D EVRIES

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EXPLORE

Science

Gruber photographed this shark

with a bioluorescent camera
that casts a blue light, which the
sharks skin reemits as green.

Sharks
G
 o With
t he Glow

Marine biologist David Gruber specializes in inding life-forms that bioluoresce

creatures whose uniquely structured skin absorbs undersea deep-blue light and
reemits it as neon green, red, or orange. Gruber, whose work is supported by
the National Geographic Society, has found bioluorescence in jellyish, corals,
a sea turtle, and more than 200 ish and shark species. Now the diver-scientist
is expanding his research beyond how these ish look to explore how they see.
Gruber had a Cornell University eye specialist examine a brilliantly luorescent
swell shark (above). Humans eyes see a broad spectrum of colors. This shark
sees only in the blue-green range, Gruber says, but in that range it sees acutely.
Armed with an underwater camera that mimics the sharks vision, he hopes to
learn how bioluorescence helps the shark with camoulage, mating, and more.
Meanwhile, Gruber says, the sharks-eye-view camera fosters a sense of
empathy with these animals, to see how they see the world. Patricia Edmonds

CATS DIG THEIR OWN KIND OF MUSIC

People who leave the radio on for their cat while theyre out
arent doing Tabby a favor, a recent study suggests. Researchers
tracked how cats respond to music for humans versus music
composed with the high pitch of feline voices and the tempo
of purring or suckling. Cats mostly ignored classical works and
overwhelmingly responded to the tunes created for them, in
some cases even rubbing against the speaker. Were trying to
get people to think more carefully about why theyre playing
music, says University of Wisconsin psychologist Charles
Snowdon, and who its really benefiting.A. R. Williams

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PHOTO: DAVID GRUBER. ART: MARC JOHNS

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Travel back in time through

a century of national parks.

1916

1968

1972

1994

2006

Subscribing members have free digital access to every issue of National

Geographic since 1888including a special collection celebrating one
hundred years of Americas national parks. Explore the power of parks today!

Activate your free access at natgeo.com/activate-uscan

Not a subscribing member? Go to nationalgeographic.com/getmembership.
Already have your digital access? Go to archive.nationalgeographic.com.
Copyright 2015 National Geographic

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CHINA

2014

EXPLORE

2,730

Us

million
tons of
cement

Towering
Above

5% Air
12% Cement
15% Water

The foundation of Chinas 21st-century

growth is concrete. Literally. The countrys cement production has spiked 3,000
percent since 1980. Since 2012, China
has made more cement than the U.S. has
since 1900.
Where is it all going? Mass urbanization, says USGS geologist Hendrik van
Oss: When you consider large new cities
and highways, [the Chinese are] building
faster than anyone before. Cement,
which tends to be a cheaper construction
material than wood or steel, has been
used for Chinas most ambitious building
projects. One of the biggestthe Three
Gorges Damrequired 12 million tons of
cement, more than the United Kingdom
produces in a year.
But theres a downside. Cement production, especially in antiquated plants,
emits large amounts of CO2about 5
percent of all anthropogenic emissions,
reports a U.S. study. Chinas cement contributes as much toward that tally as all
other countries combined. Daniel Stone

68% Mix of coarse and

ine aggregates

Cement to concrete
Cement is a small fraction of
concrete, which is made with
water plus other ingredients like
rock, sand, or gravel. Too many
additives can weaken it.
Empire State
Building

520 feet

How much concrete?

In 2014 China produced enough
cement to make 330 billion cubic
feet of concrete. Thats enough to
cover the entire island of Manhattan with a block 520 feet thick.

U.S. and China: Cement production

Millions of tons
Cement production tends to relect political
and economic shifts. Wars, revolutions, and
inancial crises have resulted in slowdowns.

Great
Depression
1929-1939

U.S.
engages
in WWII
1941-45

Three
Gorges Dam
construction
completed
2006

Deng Xiaopings
southern tour
kick-starts Chinas
economy
1992

Mao Zedong
takes over
in China
1949

Deng Xiaoping
opens China
to trade
1978
Oil crisis
1973

Global
inancial
crisis
2008
Oil
crisis
1979

UNITED
STATES

2014

91
1900

1910

1920

1930

1940

1950

1960

1970

1980

1990

2000

2014

GRAPHIC: MATTHEW TWOMBLY, NGM STAFF. SOURCES: USGS; ORVILLE SCHELL, ASIA SOCIETY

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EXPLORE

Ancient Worlds

Seated in heaven, Mary and

Jesus prepare to receive
the soul of Thomas, Earl of
Lancaster. Scenes leading
to his demise are below,
clockwise from top left.

This section
shows the aftermath of the
earls defeat
in battle in
1322. Here I
am taken prisoner, says
the inscription
underneath.

The earl is
hauled before
a tribunal. I
am judged,
says the text.
Forbidden
to argue his
case, he is
sentenced
to death.

The earl is
beheaded with
a sword near
his castle at
Pontefract.
Two words are
all thats needed to explain
the scene:
The death.

Mounted on
a horse, the
condemned
earl rides
through a hostile crowd to
his execution.
I am under
threat, says
the text.

Relic of a
Rebellion

A rare ive-inch-tall metal panel from the 14th century, rescued from a onetime
riverbank of the Thames in London, is both a religious artifact and a piece of
political propaganda. Crowned by a scene from heaven, four sections show
the capture, trial, inal journey, and execution of Thomas, Earl of Lancaster.
A description in garbled medieval French runs beneath each scene.
The earl was a cousin of King Edward II of Englandand his enemy. Allied
with a group of barons, he tried to curtail the kings power. Edward defeated
him and had him executed. Miracles were soon associated with the earls tomb.
Devotional panels such as this one were then created to hang in the homes of
supporters. It was a big political statement for Thomas of Lancaster and against
the king, says Sophie Jackson, an expert at the Museum of London Archaeology. As the political climate changed in favor of the throne, the panel may have
been thrown away. Perhaps people didnt want to be seen owning something
which aligned them so much with this particular person. A. R. Williams
PHOTO: ANDY CHOPPING, MOLA (MUSEUM OF LONDON ARCHAEOLOGY)

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Lets change the world together.

Now, more than ever, our planet needs our help. Thats why the National Geographic Society is expanding its
commitment to protect our oceans, save wildlife, and fund researchers and explorers who are pushing the
IV\UKHYPLZ VM RUV^SLKNL (Z H UVUWYV[ VYNHUPaH[PVU ^L ILSPL]L PU [OL WV^LY VM ZJPLUJL L_WSVYH[PVU
education, and storytelling to change the world. Join us, and lets change it together.

natgeo.org/together

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EXPLORE

Planet Earth: By the Numbers

Health and
Climate
The higher temperatures and
more extreme weather that come
with climate change likely will
have wide-ranging and mostly
negative consequences for human health. They threaten air and
water quality along with our ability to produce food, and theyre
sure to promote the spread of
diseases like dengue fever.
Governments, especially in
developing countries with weak
health care infrastructure, need
to prepare for this volatility,
says Raman Velayudhan of
the World Health Organization.
But that takes resources many
dont have. Kelsey Nowakowski

DENGUE FEVER AND CLIMATE CHANGE

Malaria affects more people globally, but dengue fever is the fastest growing vectorborne disease. It causes fever, headache, muscle and joint pain and can be fatal.
Yet this viral disease has been neglected: Vaccines are only now on the horizon.
DENGUE FEVER CASES
Number reported to WHO

10x

3 million
2.5

Todays ive-year average

is ten times what it was
40 years ago.

2.0
1.5
1.0
0.5
0

1970

1980

1990

2000

2010 2013

GEOGRAPHIC SPREAD
Before 1970 dengue was reported in only 9 countries; today its in 128.
Rapid urbanization and warming temperatures are expanding its range.

THE POTENTIAL DAMAGE

250,000

Risk of dengue occurrence

0%
99%

TROPIC OF CANCER

NUMBER OF ADDITIONAL DEATHS

CAUSED BY CLIMATE CHANGE IN 2030

TROPIC OF CAPRICORN

Shrinking food supplies and

deteriorating water quality and
sanitation may increase deaths.

Cause
of death
38% Childhood
undernutrition
24% Malaria
19% Diarrhea
15% Heat exposure
(among the elderly)
4% Other

DIRECT HEALTH SERVICE COSTS PER YEAR BY 2030*

$2-4 billion
*Doesnt include costs due to agricultural,
water, and sanitation changes

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Unlike the mainly nocturnal species that spread malaria, the mosquito
that carries the dengue virus bites mostly during the day and often
breeds in urban areas in man-made containers, increasing risk.

MEXICO

GLOBAL POPULATION AT RISK

Data collected in Mexico from 1985

to 2007 indicates that higher minimum
temperatures increase dengue cases.
Warming temperatures may prove
devastating in countries without the
resources to cope with the disease.

TODAY

4 billion
(More than half the worlds seven billion people)

THE TEMPERATURE CONNECTION

NUMBER
INFECTED

20 Cases per 100,000 inhabitants

390 million

10

(70 million more

than the U.S.
population)

0
0F

UP TO 500,000
SEVERE CASES A YEAR

20

40

60

80

Average minimum monthly

temperature

12,000 DIE EACH YEAR

THE OUTLOOK
Projected increase in dengue
infections due to climate change
Current
incidence

2085

2030

6 billion

2050

Of them, one billion could be at risk

because of climate change alone.

2080

12-18%
22-31%
33-42%

VECTOR-BORNE DISEASES
Many illnesses caused by pathogens and parasites
are transmitted by bloodsucking insects. Their ranges
could expand as the planet warms.
22% of all
infectious disease cases are
vector borne.

Mosquitoes

Sand lies

Ticks

Malaria
Dengue fever

Sandly fever
Leishmaniasis

Lyme disease
Encephalitis

1 million
of the more than one billion people
infected die every year.

GRAPHIC: LVARO VALIO. SOURCES: WHO; FELIPE J. COLN-GONZLEZ AND OTHERS,

PLOS NEGLECTED TROPICAL DISEASES, 2013; SAMIR BHATT AND OTHERS, NATURE, 2013

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ACTOR PORTRAYAL

Indication and Limitations of Use

Trulicity is a once-weekly injectable prescription
medicine to improve blood sugar (glucose) in adults
with type 2 diabetes mellitus. It should be used along
with diet and exercise. Trulicity is not recommended as
the rst medication to treat diabetes. It has not been
studied in people who have had inammation of the
pancreas (pancreatitis). Trulicity should not be used
by people with a history of severe gastrointestinal (GI)
disease, people with type 1 diabetes, or people with
diabetic ketoacidosis. It is not a substitute for insulin.
It has not been studied with long-acting insulin or in
children under 18 years of age.
Important Safety Information
Tell your healthcare provider if you get a lump or
swelling in your neck, have hoarseness, trouble
swallowing, or shortness of breath while taking
Trulicity. These may be symptoms of thyroid
cancer. In studies with rats or mice, Trulicity and
medicines that work like Trulicity caused thyroid
tumors, including thyroid cancer. It is not known
if Trulicity will cause thyroid tumors or a type of
thyroid cancer called medullary thyroid carcinoma
(MTC) in people. Do not take Trulicity if you or any
of your family members have ever had MTC or if

you have Multiple Endocrine Neoplasia syndrome type

2 (MEN 2).
Do not take Trulicity if you have had an allergic reaction to
dulaglutide or any of the other ingredients in Trulicity.
Trulicity may cause serious side eects, including:
Inammation of your pancreas (pancreatitis). If you
have pain in your stomach area (abdomen) that is severe
and will not go away, stop taking Trulicity and call your
healthcare provider right away. The pain may happen
with or without vomiting. It may be felt going from your
abdomen through to your back.
Low blood sugar (hypoglycemia). If you are using
another medicine that can cause low blood sugar (such
as insulin or a sulfonylurea) while taking Trulicity, your
risk for getting low blood sugar (hypoglycemia) may be
higher. Signs and symptoms of low blood sugar may
include dizziness, blurred vision, anxiety, irritability, mood
changes, sweating, slurred speech, hunger, confusion
or drowsiness, shakiness, weakness, headache, fast
heartbeat, or feeling jittery. Talk to your healthcare provider
about low blood sugar and how to manage it.
Serious allergic reactions. Stop taking Trulicity and
get medical help right away if you have symptoms of a
serious allergic reaction, such as itching, rash, or difficulty
breathing.

Find out if youre eligible to pay as little as $25 for each of your rst 26 prescriptions at Trulicity.com

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Kidney problems (kidney failure). In people who

have kidney problems, diarrhea, nausea, and vomiting
may cause a loss of uids (dehydration). This may
cause kidney problems to get worse.
Severe stomach problems. Trulicity may cause
stomach problems, which could be severe.

The most common

n side eects
eects with Trulicity may
include: nausea, diarrhea, vomiting, decreased appetite,
and indigestion. Talk to your healthcare provider about any
side eect that bothers you or does not go away. These are
not all the possible side eects of Trulicity. Call your doctor
for medical advice about side eects.

Tell your healthcare provider if you:

have or have had problems with your pancreas, kidneys,
or liver.
have severe problems with your stomach, such as
slowed emptying of your stomach (gastroparesis) or
problems with digesting food.
have any other medical conditions.
are pregnant or plan to become pregnant, or if you
become pregnant while taking Trulicity. It is not known
if Trulicity will harm your unborn baby.
are breastfeeding or plan to breastfeed. It is not known
if Trulicity passes into your breast milk. You should not
use Trulicity while breastfeeding without rst talking to
your healthcare provider.
are taking other medicines including prescription and
over-the-counter medicines, vitamins, and herbal
supplements. Trulicity may aect the way some
medicines work and some medicines may aect the
way Trulicity works.
are taking other medicines to treat diabetes, including
insulin or sulfonylureas.

You are encouraged to report side eects of prescription

drugs to the FDA. Visit www.fda.gov/medwatch or call
1-800-FDA-1088.
Please see next page for additional information about
Trulicity, including Boxed Warning regarding possible
thyroid tumors including thyroid cancer.
Please see Instructions for Use included with the pen.
DG CON ISI 20APR2015

Trulicity is available by prescription only.

PP-DG-US-0313 09/2015 Lilly USA, LLC 2015.

All rights reserved.

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Information for Patients about Trulicity (dulaglutide):

Before using Trulicity tell your healthcare provider if you:

This is a brief summary of important information about Trulicity (Tru--li-si-tee).

Please read the Medication Guide that comes with Trulicity before you start
taking it and each time you get a refill because there may be new information.
This information is not meant to take the place of talking with your healthcare
provider or pharmacist.

have had problems with your pancreas, kidneys, or liver.

have severe problems with your stomach, such as slowed emptying of

your stomach (gastroparesis) or problems digesting food.

have any other medical conditions.

What is Trulicity?

Trulicity is a once-weekly, injectable prescription medicine that may improve

blood sugar (glucose) in adults with type 2 diabetes mellitus, and should be
used along with diet andexercise.

are pregnant or plan to become pregnant, or if you become pregnant while

taking Trulicity. It is not known if Trulicity will harm your unbornbaby.

are breastfeeding or plan to breastfeed. It is not known if Trulicity passes

into your breast milk. You should not use Trulicity while breastfeeding
without first talking to your healthcare provider.

are taking other medicinesincluding prescription and over-thecounter medicines, vitamins, and herbal supplements. Trulicitymay affect
the way some medicines work and some medicines may affect the way
Trulicity works.
are taking other medicines to treat your diabetes including insulin or
sulfonylureas.

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It is not recommended as the first choice of medicine for treating diabetes.

It is not known if it can be used in people who have had pancreatitis.

It is not a substitute for insulin and is not for use in people with type 1
diabetes or people with diabetic ketoacidosis.

It is not recommended for use in people with severe stomach or intestinal

problems.

It is not known if it can be used with long-acting insulin or if it is safe and

effective for use in children under 18years of age.

Before using Trulicity, talk to your healthcare provider about low blood
sugar and how to manage it.

What is the most important information I should know about Trulicity?

Trulicity may cause serious side effects including possible thyroid tumors,
including cancer. Tell your healthcare provider if you get a lump or swelling
in your neck, hoarseness, trouble swallowing, or shortness of breath. These
may be symptoms of thyroid cancer. In studies with rats or mice, Trulicity and
medicines that work like Trulicity caused thyroid tumors, including thyroid
cancer. It is not known if TRULICITY will cause thyroid tumors or a type of
thyroid cancer called medullary thyroid carcinoma (MTC) in people.

How should I use Trulicity?

Read the Instructions for Use that comes with Trulicity.

Use Trulicity exactly as your healthcare provider tells you to.

Your healthcare provider should show you how to use Trulicity before you
use it for the first time.

Trulicity is injected under the skin (subcutaneously) of your stomach

(abdomen), thigh, or upper arm. Do not inject Trulicity into a muscle
(intramuscularly) or vein (intravenously).

Who should not use Trulicity?

Do not use Trulicity if:

you or any of your family have ever had a type of thyroid cancer called
medullary thyroid carcinoma (MTC) or if you have an endocrine system
condition called Multiple Endocrine Neoplasia syndrome type 2 (MEN 2).

Use Trulicity 1 time each week on the same day each week at any
time of the day.

You may change the day of the week as long as your last dose was given
3 or more days before.

you are allergic to dulaglutide or any of the ingredients in Trulicity.

If you miss a dose of Trulicity, take the missed dose as soon as possible,
if there are at least 3 days (72 hours) until your next scheduled dose. If
there are less than 3 days remaining, skip the missed dose and take your
next dose on the regularly scheduled day. Do not take 2doses of Trulicity
within 3 days of each other.

Trulicity may be taken with or without food.

What are the possible side effects of Trulicity?

Trulicity may cause serious side effects, including:

Possible thyroid tumors, including cancer. See What is the most

important information I should know about Trulicity?

inflammation of the pancreas (pancreatitis). Stop using Trulicity and

call your healthcare provider right away if you have severe pain in your
stomach area (abdomen) that will not go away, with or without vomiting.
You may feel the pain from your abdomen to your back.

Do not mix Trulicity and insulin together in the same injection.

You may give an injection of Trulicity and insulin in the same body area
(such as your stomach), but not right next to each other.

low blood sugar (hypoglycemia). Your risk for getting low blood sugar
may be higher if you use Trulicity with another medicine that can cause
low blood sugar such as sulfonylurea or insulin.

Change (rotate) your injection site with each weekly injection. Do not use
the same site for each injection.

Signs and symptoms of low blood sugar may include: dizziness or lightheadedness; blurred vision; anxiety, irritability, or mood changes; sweating;
slurred speech; hunger; confusion or drowsiness; shakiness; weakness;
headache; fast heartbeat; feeling jittery.

serious allergic reactions. Stop using Trulicity and get medical help right
away, if you have any symptoms of a serious allergic reaction including
itching, rash, or difficulty breathing.

kidney problems (kidney failure). In people who have kidney problems,

diarrhea, nausea, and vomiting may cause a loss of fluids (dehydration)
which may cause kidney problems to get worse.

severe stomach problems. Other medicines like Trulicity may cause

severe stomach problems. It is not known if Trulicity causes or worsens
stomach problems.

The most common side effects of Trulicity may include nausea, diarrhea,
vomiting, decreased appetite, indigestion.

Do not share your Trulicity pen, syringe, or needles with another person.
You may give another person an infection or get an infection from them.
Your dose of Trulicity and other diabetes medicines may need to change
because of:

change in level of physical activity or exercise, weight gain or loss,

increased stress, illness, change in diet, or because of other medicines
you take.

For more information go to www.Trulicity.com or call 1-800-LillyRx

(1-800-545-5979).
Trulicity is a trademark owned or licensed by Eli Lilly and Company, its
subsidiaries or affiliates. Trulicity is available by prescription only.

Eli Lilly and Company, Indianapolis, IN 46285, USA

Talk to your healthcare provider about any side effect that bothers you or does
not go away. These are not all the side effects ofTrulicity.
Call your doctor for medical advice about side effects. You may report side
effects to FDA at 1-800-FDA-1088.
Trulicity (dulaglutide)
DG CON BS 01MAY2015

US License Number 1891

Copyright 2014, 2015, Eli Lilly and Company. All rights reserved.
DG CON BS 01MAY2015
Trulicity (dulaglutide)

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DG CON BS 01MAY2015

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to this ad only!

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EXPLORE

Field Notes

NatGeo explorers and photojournalists report from around the world

Central African Republic

A startling
request from a
prisons worst
inmates
PETER GWINMagazine Senior Editor

From Gwin on assignment:

Sssssss, monsieur. Sssssss,
monsieur. The hissing
AFRICA
comes from the padlocked
CENTRAL
AFRICAN
door of the cell holding
REPUBLIC
the stubborn ones, says
the prison warden in Berbrati, a Central African Republic town near
the border with Cameroon.
The inmates poke their fingers through
the cracks, trying to motion me to come near,
possibly to whisper an alibi or maybe to slip
them some cash or the ballpoint pen Im nervously clicking. The warden ignores them and
continues his tour of the rest of the prison,
organized around an open concrete yard.
Here is where the [male] inmates sleep,
he says matter-of-factly, motioning to a dank
room of the yard. And here is where the women sleep. We lock them in their room at night
so they are separate from the men.
In the far corner of the yard two naked men
bathe themselves, splashing water from a bucket and vigorously rubbing their skin. A re
smolders in another corner. The sweet, pungent smell of cassava our and human sweat
hangs in the air. The eyes of all the prisoners
follow us as we move around the yard. I ask the
warden about the men in the padlocked cell.
Some are bandits, he says with a dismissive
wave. Two are anti-Balaka, members of a
movement of Christians and animists who
joined forces to ght a Muslim-led rebellion.
Just that morning the towns prosecutor had
told me that the prisons worst inmates had
participated in the burning, looting, and lynching that left the Muslim quarter of the town

Problem
inmates
escapees and
the violent
share a prison
cell in Berbrati, a town
in the Central
African Republic ravaged
by ethnic
violence.
Peter Gwin,
NGM Staff
@petergwin

an empty ruin. Afterward they had formed

gangs to raid the camps of refugees who had
ed across the border to Cameroon.
The warden leads us out of the yard, and
we pass the cell once more. The ngers poke
through the cracks beseechingly. Sssssss,
monsieur! Sssssss, monsieur! they hiss. Some
soap, please. Some soap.
Greece

A ferry ride prompts

poignant questions
MATTHIEU PALEYPhotographer

From Paleys travel journal:

In July my familyincluding my sons, ages four and
eightleft our home in
Turkey to visit Greece. On
our way, we boarded a ferryboat that shuttles passengers

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ASIA
EUR. GREECE
AFRICA

NGM MAPS

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EXPLORE

To learn more about the ways National Geographic is funding

research and exploration, visit nationalgeographic.com/explorers.

Field Notes

from Greek islands in the Aegean Sea to Athens

on the mainland. Entering a passenger lounge,
I wondered why so many people were asleep on
couches or slumped in chairs. Soon I learned
they were migrantsmainly Afghans, Iraqis,
and Syrianstaking the opportunity to get some
sleep during their arduous journey to Europe.
I speak Farsi, and many of them spoke
English, so I heard their stories. They were
exhausted from days in makeshift camps on
Lesbos and Chios islands, where they arrived
after a dangerous crossing from Turkey.
Were they refugees escaping war or simply
people looking for a better and safer future?
Who can say? But throughout the ferry, I saw
travelers drawing strength from each other.
A father hugged his young daughter; nearby,
newlyweds tended to their month-old baby,
born during their journey.
I viewed all this through my camera lens
but also through the experiences of my young
sons. As an Afghan man spoke with me, he
swept my four-year-old into an embrace. He

could not help hugging my child, he explained,

because he had to leave his family behind.
My eight-year-old, meanwhile, was playing
cards with a young Iraqi. The boy said his family
left their home because it wasnt safe; my son,
shaken, turned to me to help him understand.
But how could we explain this tragedy to an
eight-year-old, when we can hardly make sense
of it ourselves?
On a ferryboat
to Athens,
photographer
Matthieu
Paley saw
many weary
migrants
from Iraq,
Syria, and
Afghanistan,
including two
young girls
fast asleep on
a dining table.
Matthieu Paley
@paleyphoto

Alaska

A new way to measure

glaciers retreat
KIT DESLAURIERSSki Mountaineer

By Daniel Stone
For years Kit DesLauriers
ASIA
has been drawn to the
ANWR
wildness of the Arctic
ALASKA
National Wildlife Refuge
(U.S.)
(ANWR). She wasnt there
for the oil depositslong its
claim to political famebut to study the areas
terrain, and specically its retreating glaciers.
In hopes of charting glaciers change,
DesLauriers and colleagues climbed several
glaciers with a device designed to use radar
to take measurements. For some reason
DesLauriers joked that she may have stepped
on the antennasthe device didnt work.
DesLaurierss team returned with new
equipment, an airplane, and a grant from
National Geographic. This time they would
measure glaciers from the airmore eicient
than climbingwith a method called aerial
photogrammetry. New coordinates helped the
team spot changes in the glaciers of even a few
centimeters. This allowed them to make much
better maps with much lower cost equipment
much more quickly, says glaciologist Matt
Nolan of the University of Alaska Fairbanks.
To verify the data, DesLauriers climbed and
skied two remote peaks, Mount Chamberlin,
long believed to be the tallest mountain in the
U.S. Arctic, and Mount Isto. One surprising
thing her measurements showed: Mount Isto
is actually taller, by more than 70 feet.

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Basic Instincts

A genteel disquisition on love and lust in the animal kingdom

Her Rack Versus His

Obviously, scientic accuracy is important. But did a zoos website have to upend a beloved Christmas folktale by publishing
this sentence: Rudolph the red-nosed reindeer must have
been a female?
Now, now. Compose yourselves. This all can be explained.
Rangifer tarandus includes the caribou of North America
and the reindeer of Eurasia. Reproductive biologist Peter Flood
of the University of Saskatchewan, Canada, says it is the only
deer species in which both sexes grow antlersand in which
annual rack-shedding cycles separate the bulls from the cows.
In spring both sexes begin to grow antlers that, by fall, harden
to bone. Flood says adult males antlers are rightly called weapons of sex, used to drive of other bulls in rut. Once the cows are
pregnant, adult bulls testosterone levels drop, triggering a bone
cell change that makes their antlers fall of, usually in November or December. Young males keep their antlers somewhat
longerbut pregnant cows keep their racks all winter and into
spring, the better to fend of threats and guard feeding sites.
Only after they give birth, typically in April or May, do they shed
their antlers (which nonpregnant cows did some weeks earlier).
So to give Santas sleigh pullers their due, let us clarify.
Reindeer still antlered on Christmas Eve may be adolescent
malesbut could very well be females, and pregnant ones at
that.Patricia Edmonds

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HABITAT/RANGE

Tundra and taiga zones of

Eurasia and North America
CONSERVATION STATUS

Least concern
OTHER FACTS

Climate warming in Rangifer

taranduss range causes
more melting and re-icing
of snow, making it harder
for them to dig for food.

This female reindeer was photographed at

the Miller Park Zoo, Bloomington, Illinois.

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The passion of all

the explorers, for
what they do, is aweinspiring. Their work
teaches respect for
animals, different
cultures, lifestyles...
I wanted to support
National Geographic
to make sure this
work continues long
after Im gone.

Cecilia Sestak, who included

the National Geographic Society
in her estate plans.

LEAVE A WISE LEGACY.

By including the National Geographic Society in your estate plans, you can pass on the values that
have guided your life. Gifts to the Society given through your will, retirement plan, life insurance policy,
or other nancial account make a lasting impact on the exploration, conservation, and education
programs that you value. Plus, you maintain control of your assets during your lifetime and allow for
exibility if your nancial situation changes.
For more information about making a bequest to the National Geographic Society:
Tel: 1-800-226-4438 | Email: plannedgiftinfo@ngs.org | Web: www.ngs.gift-planning.org

COPYRIGHT 2014 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY

EDWARD MICHALSKI, NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC YOUR SHOT

Name
Address

Phone
Email
Mail to

The National Geographic Society is a 501(c)(3) tax-exempt organization.

National Geographic Society

Office of Planned Giving
1145 17th Street, N.W.
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Our federal tax ID number is 53-0193519.

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VISIONS

Islands

YourShot.ngm.com

AssignmentYour Shot editors visited Hawaii Volcanoes National Park for

the NatGeo BioBlitz. They asked members to share photos of islands.

Rochelle Potter
Kailua-Kona, Hawaii

EDITORS NOTE

I wanted photos that went past island clichs.

The grandness and scale of this banyan in
contrast to the lone woman give me not only
a view of wildness but also a sense of peace.
Jeanne Modderman, Your Shot photo editor

When Potter and her friend were

driving on the north side of the Big
Island of Hawaii, they passed a large
banyan tree with splayed roots. I
shouted that we had to stop, says
Potter. She asked her friendwho
is ive feet nineto climb the roots.
Then Potter aimed her camera up.

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Recommended by
the CDC for adults 65+

WHAT IF ONE STRAWBERRY

COULD HELP
PREVENT HEART DISEASE?
Wishful thinking, right?
But there is one step that can help
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As you age, your risk of getting pneumococcal pneumonia increases. Its a serious disease that
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Even if youve already been vaccinated with another pneumonia vaccine, PREVNAR 13 may
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INDICATION FOR PREVNAR 13
Prevnar 13 is a vaccine approved for adults 50 years of age
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strains (1, 3, 4, 5, 6A, 6B, 7F, 9V, 14, 18C, 19A, 19F, and 23F)
Prevnar 13 is not 100% effective and will only help protect
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IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION
Prevnar 13 should not be given to anyone with a history of
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Adults with weakened immune systems (eg, HIV infection,
leukemia) may have a reduced immune response

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In adults, immune responses to Prevnar 13 were reduced

when given with injected seasonal flu vaccine
In adults, the common side effects were pain, redness, or swelling
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Ask your health care provider about the risks and beneits
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You are encouraged to report negative side effects of vaccines
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BEFORE STARTING PREVNAR 13

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IMPORTANT
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Based on LAB-0469-12.0 (May 2015)

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Rx only

Urgent: Special Driving Notice

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But When Driving,

To some, sunglasses are a fashion accessory

These Sunglasses
May Save Your Life!

Studies by the National Highway

Traffic Safety Administration
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Drivers Alert: Driving in fall and winter can

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do you know how to protect yourself?

n the fall and winter, the sun is lower in

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THE POWER OF PARKS

A yearlong exploration

A national park is more than just a scenic place.

Its a nations common ground.

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Standing tall on the

aptly named Grandeur
Point, a cowboy surveys the Grand Canyon
around 1935. President
Theodore Roosevelt
called the steep-sided
gorge in Arizona a
natural wonder which
is in kind absolutely
unparalleled throughout
the rest of the world.
HULTON ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES

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25

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Visitors to Yellowstone
National Park feed a
black bear in a circa
1939 photo. Though a
draw for tourists, the
practice was unhealthy
for bears and unsafe
for people. In 1970 new
policies rehabituated
bears to natural foods
and greatly reduced
human-bear conlicts.
WENDELL CHAPMAN,
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC CREATIVE

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Looks cold but is

warm and ine reads
the caption that accompanied this circa 1920
photo of bathers in
Mount Rainier National
Park. In 1899, when the
370-square-mile site in
Washington State was
designated, only four
other national parks
had been established.
ASAHEL CURTIS PHOTO COMPANY/
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC CREATIVE

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A hundred
By David Quammen
Photographs by
Stephen Wilkes

in the early months of 1916, America stood possessed of a magnicent,

visionary, slightly confused and inchoate idea: national parks. These
would be parks for the American citizenry, not pleasure grounds or private hunting reserves for nawabs and kings; parks to be shared, even, with
visitors from around the world.
At that point 14 national parks already existed in the United States, the
oldest being Yellowstone, which had been set aside by federal law, back
in 1872, as the rst national park anywhere in the world. The other U.S.
parks, representing a diverse sample of majestic landscapes, all west of
the Mississippi, included Yosemite in California (originally a state park,
nationalized in 1890), Wind Cave in South Dakota (1903), Glacier in Montana (1910), and Rocky Mountain in Colorado (1915). There were also 21
national monumentsa form of protection more easily achieved because
it could come by presidential decree under the Antiquities Act (passed in
1906), as robustly exploited by Theodore Roosevelt during his last three
years as president. That early list of national monuments included Devils
Tower, Chaco Canyon, Muir Woods, and the Grand Canyon.
What the country did not have in 1916, but now realized it needed, was
a coherent denition of what a national park is or should be, supported by
a single agency empowered to manage, defend, and oversee the expansion
of its scattered patchwork of parks and parklike monuments. In August of
that yeara time when European civilizations were gruesomely entangled
at the rst Battle of the SommeCongress passed an act, and President
Woodrow Wilson signed it, creating a National Park Service within the
Interior Department. Stephen Mather, a Californian who had gotten rich
selling borax but who cared deeply about conservation, became the rst
NPS director. His assistant and sidekick was an impecunious young lawyer named Horace Albright, son of a mining engineer, who would serve as
superintendent of Yellowstone beginning in 1919 and eventually succeed
Mather as NPS director. These two crucial men and their many allies mustered support for the system and for adding new units, but the project of
dening a national parks essence didnt end with their work.
The early parks in the American West had been established primarily
to protect scenic wonders, splendors of soaring rock and tumbling water
and perennial ice, severe places that ofered little prospect for economic
exploitationexcept maybe in the form of tourism as envisaged by railroad
tycoons. That perceived dearth of business opportunity, plus the patriotic
savor of touting Americas natural cathedrals in counterpoint to the cathedrals and monuments of old Europe, made creating parks easier than
it would be later. Another factor was the negative example of Niagara Falls,

30national geographic jan uary

2016

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years ago,
where the best overlooks had been bought up and fenced by private operators, turning a national icon into a cheesy, for-prot peep show. Heaven
forbid that should happen to Old Faithful or the Yosemite Valley. Protection of living creaturesthe American bison in Yellowstone, the gigantic
Sierra redwoods later known as sequoiasbecame part of the idea too. But
it wasnt until 1947 that any U.S. national park was approved largely for the
protection of wildlife. That was Everglades National
Park, a vast wetland in Florida, lacking mountains or
canyons but full of birds and alligators.
Since then, our national parks have gradually
taken on the high purpose of preserving natures diversitynative fauna and ora, ecological processes,
free-owing waters, geology in its raw eloquence
as exemplars of Earths interactive complexity, not
just as scenic wonderlands. Now they teach us as
well as delight us. They inspire active curiosity as
well as passive awe. They help us imagine what
the American landscape and its resident creatures
looked like before railroads and automobiles and
motels existed. Repeat: They help us imagine. They
carry a glimpse of the past into the present andif
our resolve holds and our better wisdom prevails
they will carry that into the future.
The way so far has been a stumbling, incremental
process, fraught with politics and economics and
conicting ideals, that has brought us to where we
are now. National parks were a good idea that has
gotten better, and a big idea that has gotten bigger.
The system now includes not just parks proper and national monuments
but also battleelds, forts, seashores, scenic rivers, grave sites, and other
signicant places (some still privately owned) that are recognized as
national historic landmarks, as well as noteworthy paths through landscape and history, such as the Selma to Montgomery National Historic
Trail in Alabama. Jon Jarvis, the current director of the National Park
Service, says that its purpose is to tell Americas story, not simply protect
parcels of landscape. If not us, who else? Its our job. As we celebrate
the centennial, we also should remember that, although one act of Congress and a presidential signature can put a park on the map, the work
of preserving these places and their stories falls to us too, as citizens, as
owners, and its never done.j
NATIONAL PARK SERVICE

This LanD Is Your Land 31

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ANYWHERE
WILD
In March 1868 a 29-yearold John Muir stopped a
passerby in San Francisco to ask for directions
out of town. Where
do you wish to go? the
startled man inquired.
Anywhere that is wild,
said Muir. His journey
took him to the Yosemite Valley in Californias
Sierra Nevada, which
became the spiritual
home of Muirs conservation movement and,
under his guidance, the
countrys third national
park. John the Baptist,
he wrote, was not more
eager to get all his fellow
sinners into the Jordan
than I to baptize all
of mine in the beauty of
Gods mountains. Today
around four million
people a year follow their
own thirst for the wild
to Yosemite.

For this Yosemite vista photographer

Stephen Wilkes took 1,036 photos
some at 3 a.m., when the full moon
lit the face of El Capitanover 26
hours. Then he digitally combined
select images to make this panorama. Learn more about Wilkess
composite technique on page 144.

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THE COVENANT
OF THE PARK
Every year the
5,700-square-mile
Serengeti National Park
in Tanzania plays host to
millions of wildebeests,
zebras, and gazelles
and the predators that
follow their migration.
The Maasai word for
Serengeti means the
place where the land
runs on forever.
But like any protected
area, the Serengeti is
essentially an island,
a primeval world that
has survived into the
21st century. It exists
only because humans
have agreedor have
been forced to agree
not to conduct business as usual within its
boundaries. That covenant is always open to
challenge and, for the
sake of future generations, must always
be renewed.

To capture life around a watering

hole in Tanzanias Serengeti, Wilkes
spent 30 hours inside a crocodile
hunting blind raised on an 18-foothigh scaffold. Using equipment powered by solar panels, he took 2,260
photographs to create this image.

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THE ORIGINAL
PARK
Today I am in the
Yellowstone Park, and
I wish I were dead. So
Rudyard Kipling began
his 1889 account of a
tour in Americas oldest
national park. His disdain was aroused most
by the howling crowd
of tourists with whom
he shared the visit.
Attractions such as
Old Faithful (left) still
draw more than three
million (mostly well behaved) visitors yearly
to Yellowstone; the vast
majority of them never
go beyond a hundred
yards from a paved
road. If Kipling himself
had ventured deeper
into the 3,472-squaremile park to witness
the splendor of its river
valleys and mountain
meadows, his rant
might well have given
way to rapture.

During 29 hours on the top of

the Old Faithful Inn, Wilkes made
2,625 images of the geyser thats
one of Yellowstone National Parks
chief attractions. He saw a sunrise
and a moonrise and put both into
this composite.

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URBAN RENEWALOn an April day cherry blossoms festoon West Potomac Park, part of the National Mall and Memorial Parks in Washington, D.C.
While the grand parks of the West may elicit more gasps of awe, urban parks
draw far more visitors. The National Mall hosts 24 million a year, almost twice
the number of Yellowstone, Yosemite, and the Grand Canyon combined.
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Wilkes doubts any tourist to Washington, D.C.,

has had quite this view of the National Mall and
monuments. From 50 feet in the air on a crane
parked in a softball ield, he made 3,711 photos
in 16 hours, digitally melding the best into
a seamless panorama.

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LITMUS TESTThe Grand Canyon is the touchstone American park; whatever happens here could have repercussions throughout the park system. It has
withstood threats from ranching, mining, and logging interests and a federal dam
project. Todays challenges include a proposed town development on the South
Rim and a tramway that would bring 10,000 visitors a day to the canyon floor.
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On the Grand Canyons South Rim, the Desert

View Watchtower was Wilkess perch as he made
2,282 photos over 27 hours. The tourists on the
overlook put into perspective just how big the
canyon is, he says.

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NORTH
CASCADES

OLYMPIC

GLACIER

WASHINGTON
MOUNT
RAINIER

CANADA
UNITED STATES

Missouri

MONTANA
Yellowstone

Columbia

More than half of Earths active

geysers are in Yellowstone, the
worlds irst national park,
founded in 1872.

NORTH DAKOTA
THEODORE
ROOSEVELT

OREGON
IDAHO

CRATER LAKE

YELLOWSTONE

SOUTH DAKOTA

GRAND TETON

REDWOOD

BADLANDS

NEBRASKA

NEVADA

CALIFORNIA
San
Francisco
YOSEMITE

BRYCE
CANYON

KINGS
CANYON

CAPITOLARCHES
REEF

do
olora

COLORADO

CANYONLANDS

ZION

SEQUOIA

ROCKY MOUNTAIN

UTAH

GREAT BASIN

PINNACLES

WIND CAVE

WYOMING

LASSEN
VOLCANIC

BLACK CANYON
OF THE GUNNISON

KANSAS

L. Powell
GREAT SAND DUNES

MESA VERDE

DEATH VALLEY
GRAND
CANYON
CHANNEL ISLANDS

OKLAHOMA

ARIZONA

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PETRIFIED
FOREST

NEW MEXICO

SAGUARO
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Parks in the Pacic

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The largest national park

in the U.S., WrangellSt. Elias National Park
and Preserve is six times
the size of Yellowstone.

DENALI

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American Samoa is home to a

national park; Guam hosts a national
historical park; and Saipan, in the
Northern Mariana Islands, has an
NPS-afiliated area. Guam and
Saipan parks commemorate World
War II in the Paciic.

A CENTURY OF PARKSOver the past hundred years the National

Park Service has grown from 37 protected areas to more than 400. From hallowed battlegrounds to Native American archaeological sites and breathtaking
vistas, the NPS is working to ensure that the nations historical and natural
treasures will be available for generations to come.
MATTHEW W. CHWASTYK, NGM STAFF
SOURCE: NATIONAL PARK SERVICE

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ISLE ROYALE

VOYAGEURS

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INDIANA
SHENANDOAH

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The Park Service has

jurisdiction over multiple
small park areas throughout the District of Columbia
and adjacent regions.

VIRGINIA

MISSOURI

KENTUCKY
MAMMOTH
CAVE

NORTH CAROLINA

TENNESSEE

GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS

SOUTH
CONGAREE

HOT
SPRINGS

CAROLINA

Mississippi

ARKANSAS

ALABAMA

Great Smoky Mountains

Some ten million people
visit every year, making this
the countrys most visited
national park.

GEORGIA
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MISSISSIPPI

ND

U.S.

(U.S.)

FLORIDA

Molokai

Oahu

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EVERGLADES

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100

HAWAII
HAWAII VOLCANOES

DRY TORTUGAS

BISCAYNE

Everglades
This park was established
in 1947 to preserve and
protect the areas unique
wetland habitat and wildlife.

National Park Service Lands

National park
National lakeshore
or seashore
National monument
National preserve
or reserve

National recreation
area
National river
or national wild and
scenic river and
riverways

National scenic trail

held by the NPS
National battleield,
battleield park,
battleield site,
or military park

Parkway

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National historical park

National historic site
National memorial
Other National Park
Service property
Afiliated area

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Within sight of
downtown Seoul,
capital of South Korea
and a hub of stressful
modern life, salesman
Sungvin Hong rests
after a hike in Bukhansan National Park. The
park attracts some ve
million visitors a year.

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This Is
Your Brain
On Nature
When we get closer to nature
be it untouched wilderness
or a backyard treewe do our
overstressed brains a favor.

49

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In Singapore, which aims

to be a city in a garden,
greenery cascading
off a luxury hotel soothes
a guest in a balcony
pooland people on the
street below. A concrete
jungle destroys the
human spirit, former
Prime Minister Lee
Kuan Yew once said.

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When gray winter

encloses Sweden,
ice-hole bathing
is a welcome release
for the bold. Joshua
and Cecilie are enjoying
a quick dipwhich
feels much longer
in Klltorpssjn, a lake
near Stockholm, in
February. It is the way I
immerse myself in nature
when the elements are
unkind, Joshua says.

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the power of parks

a yearlong exploration

By Florence Williams
Photographs by Lucas Foglia

W


hen you head out to the

desert, David Strayer
is the kind of man you
want behind the wheel.
He never texts or talks
on the phone while driving. He doesnt even approve of eating in the
car. A cognitive psychologist at the University
of Utah who specializes in attention, Strayer
knows our brains are prone to mistakes, especially when were multitasking and dodging
distractions. Among other things, his research
has shown that using a cell phone impairs
most drivers as much as drinking alcohol does.
Strayer is in a unique
position to understand
what modern life does
The Channel series
to us. An avid backpackexplores the Call of the
er, he thinks he knows
Wild on January 10.
the antidote: Nature.
On the third day of a camping trip in the
wild canyons near Bluf, Utah, Strayer is mixing up an enormous iron kettle of chicken enchilada pie while explaining what he calls the
three-day efect to 22 psychology students.
Our brains, he says, arent tireless three-pound
machines; theyre easily fatigued. When we slow
down, stop the busywork, and take in beautiful
natural surroundings, not only do we feel restored, but our mental performance improves
too. Strayer has demonstrated as much with a
group of Outward Bound participants, who performed 50 percent better on creative problemsolving tasks after three days of wilderness
backpacking. The three-day efect, he says, is a
kind of cleaning of the mental windshield that
occurs when weve been immersed in nature
long enough. On this trip hes hoping to catch it
in action, by hooking his studentsand meto a
portable EEG, a device that records brain waves.
On the third day my senses recalibrateI
54national geographic jan uary

2016

Virtual nature is
soothing too. Swedish
researcher Matilda
van den Bosch stresses
her subjects with a math
test and a simulated
job interview. When
she delivers them into
a virtual forest with
singing birds, their heart
rate soon recovers
its normal rhythm.

smell things and hear things I didnt before,

Strayer says. The early evening sun has saturated the red canyon walls; the group is mellow and
hungry in that satisfying, campout way. Strayer,
in a rumpled T-shirt and with a slight sunburn,
is denitely looking relaxed. Im more in tune
with nature, he goes on. If you can have the
experience of being in the moment for two or
three days, it seems to produce a diference in
qualitative thinking.
Strayers hypothesis is that being in nature
allows the prefrontal cortex, the brains command center, to dial down and rest, like an overused muscle. If hes right, the EEG will show

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less energy coming from midline frontal theta

wavesa measure of conceptual thinking and
sustained attention. Hell compare our brain
waves with those of similar volunteers who are
sitting in a lab or hanging out at a parking lot in
downtown Salt Lake City.
While the enchiladas are cooking, Strayers
graduate students tuck my head into a sort of
bathing cap with 12 electrodes embedded in it.
They suction-cup another 6 electrodes to my
face. Wires sprouting from them will send my
brains electrical signals to a recorder for later
analysis. Feeling like a beached sea urchin, I
walk carefully to a grassy bank along the San

Juan River for ten minutes of restful contemplation. Im supposed to think of nothing in
particular, just watch the wide, sparkling river
ow gently by. I havent looked at a computer
or cell phone in days. Its easy to forget for a few
moments that I ever had them.
In 1865 the great landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted looked out over the Yosemite
Valley and saw a place worth saving. He urged
the California legislature to protect it from
rampant development. Olmsted had already
designed Central Park in New York City; he was
convinced that beautiful green spaces should
This Is Your Brain On Nature 55

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Nature Nurtures Us

It boosts our mood too. According to the attention restoration theory,

spending time in nature relieves the stress and mental fatigue caused
by the directed attention that work and city life require.

Directed Attention
The ability to voluntarily focus attention and ignore distractions is crucial to
solving problems and completing tasks. But modern life sometimes requires
more of this resource than we haveand once its depleted, prolonged and
concentrated effort leads to mental fatigue, loss of effectiveness, and stress.

exist for all people to enjoy. It is a scientic

fact, he wrote, that the occasional contemplation of natural scenes of an impressive characteris favorable to the health and vigor of
men and especially to the health and vigor of
their intellect.
Olmsted was exaggerating; his claim was
based less on science than on intuition. But it
was an intuition with a long history. It went
back at least to Cyrus the Great, who some
2,500 years ago built gardens for relaxation in
the busy capital of Persia. Paracelsus, the 16thcentury German-Swiss physician, gave voice to
that same intuition when he wrote, The art of
healing comes from nature, not from the physician. In 1798, sitting on the banks of the River
Wye, William Wordsworth marveled at how an
eye made quiet by the power / Of harmony offered relief from the fever of the world. American writers such as Ralph Waldo Emerson and
John Muir inherited that outlook. Along with
Olmsted, they built the spiritual and emotional
56national geographic jan uary

2016

Nature can
improve
creativity
by up to

50

case for creating the worlds rst national parks

by claiming that nature had healing powers.
There wasnt much hard evidence thenbut
there is now. Motivated by large-scale public
health problems such as obesity, depression,
and pervasive nearsightedness, all clearly associated with time spent indoors, Strayer and
other scientists are looking with renewed interest at how nature afects our brains and bodies.
Building on advances in neuroscience and psychology, theyve begun to quantify what once
seemed divine and mysterious. These measurementsof everything from stress hormones
to heart rate to brain waves to protein markersindicate that when we spend time in green
space, there is something profound going on,
as Strayer puts it.
In England researchers from the University of Exeter Medical School recently analyzed
mental health data from 10,000 city dwellers
and used high-resolution mapping to track
where the subjects had lived over 18 years. They

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Involuntary Attention
Attending to the stimuli in peaceful, natural environmentstrees, lowing water,
mountain shadowsis a different type of experience. It doesnt require a prolonged
effort or an act of will to avoid distractions. Researchers say this kind of focus allows
the brain to disengage and restore its capacity for directed attention.

found that people living near more green space

reported less mental distress, even after adjusting for income, education, and employment (all
of which are also correlated with health). In
2009 a team of Dutch researchers found a lower
incidence of 15 diseasesincluding depression,
anxiety, heart disease, diabetes, asthma, and migrainesin people who lived within about a half
mile of green space. And in 2015 an international team overlaid health questionnaire responses
from more than 31,000 Toronto residents onto
a map of the city, block by block. Those living
on blocks with more trees showed a boost in
heart and metabolic health equivalent to what
one would experience from a $20,000 gain in
income. Lower mortality and fewer stress hormones circulating in the blood have also been
connected to living close to green space.
Its diicult to tell from these kinds of studies why people feel better. Is it the fresh air?
Do certain colors or fractal shapes trigger neurochemicals in our visual cortex? Or is it just
ART: MARIE-LAURE CRUSCHI
SOURCES: DAVID STRAYER, UNIVERSITY OF UTAH; YOSHIFUMI MIYAZAKI, CHIBA UNIVERSITY

Forest walks
can decrease one
stress hormone
by as much as

16

that people in greener neighborhoods use the

parks to exercise more? Thats what Richard
Mitchell, an epidemiologist at the University
of Glasgow in Scotland, thought at rst. I was
skeptical, he says. But then he did a large study
that found less death and disease in people who
lived near parks or other green spaceeven if
they didnt use them. Our own studies plus
others show these restorative efects whether
youve gone for walks or not, Mitchell says.
Moreover, the lowest income people seemed to
gain the most: In the city, Mitchell found, being
close to nature is a social leveler.
What he and other researchers suspect
is that nature works primarily by lowering
stress. Compared with people who have lousy
window views, those who can see trees and
grass have been shown to recover faster in
hospitals, perform better in school, and even
display less violent behavior in neighborhoods
where its common. Such results jibe with

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experimental studies of the central nervous
system. Measurements of stress hormones,
respiration, heart rate, and sweating suggest
that short doses of natureor even pictures of
the natural worldcan calm people down and
sharpen their performance.
In Sweden physician Matilda van den Bosch
found that after a stressful math task, subjects
heart rate variabilitywhich decreases with

Visits to parks are down.

So are visits to the backyard.
One survey found only
10 percent of American
teens spend time
outside every day.
stressreturned to normal more quickly when
they sat through 15 minutes of nature scenes
and birdsong in a 3-D virtual reality room
than when they sat in a plain room. A real-life
experiment is under way at the Snake River
Correctional Institution in eastern Oregon.
Oicers there report calmer behavior in solitary connement prisoners who exercise for 40
minutes several days a week in a blue room
where nature videos are playing, compared with
those who exercise in a gym without videos. I
thought it was crazy at rst, says corrections
oicer Michael Lea. But he has experienced the
diference. Theres a lot of yelling really loud
it echoes horribly, in the plain gym, he says. In
the blue room they tend not to yell. They say,
Hold on, I got to watch my video.
A 15-minute walk in the woods causes measurable changes in physiology. Japanese researchers led by Yoshifumi Miyazaki at Chiba
University sent 84 subjects to stroll in seven
different forests, while the same number of
volunteers walked around city centers. The
forest walkers hit a relaxation jackpot: Overall
they showed a 16 percent decrease in the stress
hormone cortisol, a 2 percent drop in blood
58national geographic jan uary

2016

pressure, and a 4 percent drop in heart rate.

Miyazaki believes our bodies relax in pleasant,
natural surroundings because they evolved
there. Our senses are adapted to interpret information about plants and streams, he says,
not traic and high-rises.
All this evidence for the benets of nature is
pouring in at a time when disconnection from
it is pervasive, says Lisa Nisbet, a psychology
professor at Canadas Trent University. We love
our state and national parks, but per capita visits have been declining since the dawn of email.
So have visits to the backyard. One recent Nature Conservancy poll found that only about 10
percent of American teens spend time outside
every day. According to research by the Harvard School of Public Health, American adults
spend less time outdoors than they do inside
vehiclesless than 5 percent of their day.
People underestimate the happiness effect of being outdoors, Nisbet says. We dont
think of it as a way to increase happiness. We
think other things will, like shopping or TV.
We evolved in nature. Its strange wed be so
disconnected. But some people are starting to
do something about it.
Nooshin Razani at UCSF Benioff Childrens
Hospital in Oakland, California, is one of several
doctors who have noticed the emerging data
on nature and health. As part of a pilot project,
shes training pediatricians in the outpatient
clinic to write prescriptions for young patients
and their families to visit nearby parks. Its not
as simple as taking a pill. To guide the physicians
and patients into a new mind-set, she says, we
have transformed the clinical space so nature
is everywhere. There are maps on the wall, so
its easy to talk about where to go, and pictures
of local wilderness, which are healing to look at
for both the doctor and patient. The hospital
is partnering with the East Bay Regional Parks
District to provide transportation to parks and
programs there for entire families.
In some countries governments are promoting nature experiences as a public health policy.
In Finland, a country that struggles with high

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After two years living in the wild, engineer Matthew Sakae

Forkin is back in the San Francisco area. But he still gets
away to Californias Lost Coast to swing through trees.
When Im in the wilderness and feel part of it, he says,
Im in a state of ow, full of energy and passion and calm.

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Inmates Vanessa
Eranzo and Lauren
Hughes (whove
since been released)
relax while working
in a garden on Rikers
Island, a New York
City jail. Research
suggests interacting
with nature makes
prisoners less violent.

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rates of depression, alcoholism, and suicide,
government-funded researchers asked thousands of people to rate their moods and stress
levels after visiting both natural and urban areas. Based on that study and others, Professor
Liisa Tyrvinen and her team at the Natural
Resources Institute Finland recommend a minimum nature dose of ve hours a monthseveral short visits a weekto ward of the blues. A
40- to 50-minute walk seems to be enough for
physiological changes and mood changes and
probably for attention, says Kalevi Korpela,
a professor of psychology at the University of
Tampere. He has helped design a half dozen
power trails that encourage walking, mindfulness, and reection. Signs on them say things
like, Squat down and touch a plant.
Perhaps no one has embraced the medicalization of nature with more enthusiasm than
the South Koreans. Many suffer from work
stress, digital addiction, and intense academic
pressures. More than 70 percent say their jobs,
which require notoriously long hours, make
them depressed, according to a survey by electronics giant Samsung. Yet this economically
powerful nation has a long history of worshipping nature spirits. The ancient proverb Shin
to bul eeBody and soil are one (not body and
soul) is still popular.
At the Saneum Healing Forest, east of Seoul,
a health ranger ofers me elm bark tea, then
takes me on a hike along a small creek, through
shimmering red maples, oaks, and pine-nut
trees. Its autumn, and the changing foliage and
crisp air have lured scores of urban refugees
to the woods. Soon we come upon a cluster of
wooden platforms arranged in a clearing. Forty middle-aged reghters who have been diagnosed with post-traumatic stress disorder
are paired of on the platforms as part of a free
three-day program sponsored by the local government. In North America groups of men in
the woods likely would be hunting or shing,
but here, after a morning of hiking, they practice
partner yoga, rub lavender massage oil into each
others forearms, and make delicate dried ower
collages. Among them is Kang Byoung-wook,
62national geographic jan uary

2016

At the Twin Oaks

Communities Conference in Louisa, Virginia,
where people from
around the world come
to talk about ecovillages, cooperative
housing, and how to
live closer to nature,
a conference attendee
immerses herself in the
communal mud pit.

a weathered 46-year-old from Seoul. Recently

returned from a big re in the Philippines, he
looks exhausted. Its a stressed life, he says. I
want to live here for a month.
Saneum is one of three oicial healing forests in South Korea, but 34 more are planned
by 2017, meaning most major towns will be near
one. Chungbuk University ofers a forest healing degree program, and job prospects for graduates are good; the Korea Forest Service expects
to appoint 500 health rangers in the next couple
of years. Its a cradle-to-grave operation: Programs include everything from prenatal forest
meditation to woodcrafts for cancer patients to

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forest burials. A government-run happy train

takes kids whove been bullied into the woods
for two days of camping. A hundred-milliondollar healing complex is under construction
next to Sobaeksan National Park.
Korea Forest Service scientists used to study
timber yields; now they also distill essential oils
from trees such as the hinoki cypress and study
them for their ability to reduce stress hormones
and asthma symptoms. In the new industrial
city of Deajun, I pay a visit to the forest minister,
Shin Won Sop, a social scientist who has studied
the efects of forest therapy on alcoholics. Human well-being, he tells me, is now a formal goal

of the nations forest plan. Thanks to the new

policies, visitors to Koreas forests increased
from 9.4 million in 2010 to 12.8 million in 2013.
Of course we still use forests for timber,
Shin says. But I think the health area is the fruit
of the forest right now. His agency has data
suggesting that forest healing reduces medical
costs and benets local economies. Whats still
needed, he says, is better data on specic diseases and on the natural qualities that make a
diference. What are the main factors in the
forest that are most responsible for the physiological benets, and what types of forests are
more efective? Shin asks.
This Is Your Brain On Nature 63

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In a forest kindergarten
in Langnau am Albis, a
suburb of Zurich, Switzerland, children spend most
of the school day in the
woods, regardless of
the weather. They learn
whittling, re starting, and
denbuilding; theyre able
to explore. Supporters
say such schools foster
self-condence and an
independent spirit.

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My own city brain, which spends much of

the year in Washington, D.C., seems to like the
Utah wilderness very much. By day, on David
Strayers camping trip, we hike among owering
prickly pear cacti; by night we sit around the
campre. Strayers students seem more relaxed
and sociable than they do in the classroom, he
says, and they give much better presentations.
Whats going on inside their brains and mine?
A lot of different things, judging from the
neuroscience research thats starting to come
in. Korean researchers used functional MRI to
watch brain activity in people viewing diferent
images. When the volunteers were looking at
66national geographic jan uary

2016

urban scenes, their brains showed more blood

ow in the amygdala, which processes fear and
anxiety. In contrast, the natural scenes lit up the
anterior cingulate and the insulaareas associated with empathy and altruism. Maybe nature
makes us nicer as well as calmer.
It may also make us nicer to ourselves. Stanford researcher Greg Bratman and his colleagues
scanned the brains of 38 volunteers before and
after they walked for 90 minutes, either in a
large park or on a busy street in downtown Palo
Alto. The nature walkers, but not the city walkers, showed decreased activity in the subgenual prefrontal cortexa part of the brain tied

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Delaney Doyle holds

edible daylilies she
picked from her familys
land in the mountains
of eastern Kentucky.
The Doyles live off the
grid, surrounded
by forest. But scientic
evidence indicates
that even a trip to the
backyard or a city park
provides health and
psychological benets.

to depressive ruminationand from their own

reports, the nature walkers beat themselves
up less. Bratman believes that being outside
in a pleasant environment (not the kind where
youre getting eaten alive by gnats or pummeled
by hail) takes us outside of ourselves in a good
way. Nature, he says, may inuence how you
allocate your attention and whether or not you
focus on negative emotions.
Strayer is most interested in how nature
affects higher order problem solving. His
research builds on the attention restoration
theory proposed by environmental psychologists Stephen and Rachel Kaplan at the

University of Michigan. They argue that its

the visual elements in natural environments
sunsets, streams, butterfliesthat reduce
stress and mental fatigue. Fascinating but not
too demanding, such stimuli promote a gentle, soft focus that allows our brains to wander,
rest, and recover from what Olmsted called the
nervous irritation of city life. Soft fascinationpermits a more reective mode, wrote
the Kaplansand the benefit seems to carry
over when we head back indoors.
A few years ago, for example, in an experiment similar to Bratmans, Stephen Kaplan
and his colleagues found that a 50-minute walk
in an arboretum improved executive attention skills, such as short-term memory, while
walking along a city street did not. Imagine
a therapy that had no known side efects, was
readily available, and could improve your cognitive functioning at zero cost, the researchers
wrote in their paper. It exists, they continued,
and its called interacting with nature.
A few months after our Utah trip, Strayers
team sent me the results of my EEG test. The
colorful graph charted the power of my brain
waves at a range of frequencies and compared
them with samples from the two groups that
had stayed in the city. My theta signals were
indeed lower than theirs; the soft fascination of
the San Juan River had apparently quieted my
prefrontal cortex, at least for a while.
So far, says Strayer, the results are consistent
with his hypothesis. But even if the study bears
it out, it wont ofer anything like a full explanation of the brain-on-nature experience. Something mysterious will always remain, Strayer
says, and maybe thats as it should be. At the
end of the day, he says, we come out in nature
not because the science says it does something
to us, but because of how it makes us feel.j
Photographer Lucas Foglia grew
up on a family farm in New York and
currently lives in San Francisco. His
work is exhibited and collected internationally. This is his irst feature for
National Geographic magazine.
MARK MAHANEY

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Maddie Roark swims

among lily pads in her
familys pond in western
North Carolina. Her father
runs an outdoor education
center. In a recent study,
some 70 percent of U.S.
mothers reported that they
played outside every day
as children; only 31 percent
of their children do.

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Bloody
Good

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Vultures do the dirty work of cleaning

up after death. With their numbers
plummeting, were learning how
much we need to keep them alive.

Even Darwin called them disgusting. But vultures are

more vital than vile, because they clean up carcasses
that otherwise could rot and spread pestilence. Here
a Rppells vulture (Gyps rueppelli) rips tissue from
the trachea of a dead wildebeest.

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A Rppells vulture lays claim to a dead zebra in

Tanzanias Serengeti National Park, while other Rppells
and white-backed vultures (Gyps africanus) move in
for a piece of the action. More vultures will likely join the
banquet. They can strip a carcass clean in minutes.

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A vendor in Durban, South Africa, proffers vulture
heads for sale as mutitraditional medicine. Dried and
smoked, vulture brains are also thought to provide
visions of the future. The birds own prospects are bleak.
Six of eight species in the country are endangered.

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By Elizabeth Royte
Photographs by Charlie Hamilton James

t sunset the wildebeest seems

doomed: Sick or injured, its wandering miles from its herd on the
Serengeti Plain of Tanzania. By
sunrise the loner is dead, draped
in a roiling scrum of vultures, 40 or so birds
searching for a way to invade its earthly remains. Some of the scavengers wait patiently,
with a Nixonian hunch, eyes on their prize. But
most are engaged in gladiatorial battle. Talons
straining, they rear and rake, joust and feint.
One pounces atop another, then bronco rides its
bucking and rearing victim. The crowd parts and
surges in a black-and-brown wave of undulating necks, stabbing beaks, and thrashing wings.
From overhead, a constant stream of new diners
swoops in, heads low, bouncing and tumbling in
their haste to join the mob.
Why the fuss over a carcass so large? Why
the unseemly greed? Because the wildebeest is
tough-skinned and wasnt killed by carnivores,
it lacks an opening wide enough for general admission. And so the boldest birds compete furiously for access. As the crowd cackles and caws,
a white-backed vulture snakes its head deep into
the wildebeests eye socket and hurriedly slurps,
Blood drips from a Rppells vultures beak as it
pauses mid-meal. The neck and head of Rppells are
sparsely feathered, the better to keep gore, guts, and
fecal matter from clinging after a deep carcass dive.

76

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Vultures are both lovers and ghters. They probably mate for life, which can be 30 years in
the wild, and are attentive to their partners. But in a scufe around a carcass (right), theyre
aggressive competitors, with other species and their own kind. Lappet-faced vultures
(Torgos tracheliotos, above) are known for being particularly affectionate.

with grooved tongue, whatever it can before being ripped from its place at the table. Another
white-backed tunnels into a nostril while a Rppells vulture starts at the other end; its eight
inches into the wildebeests anus before another
bird wrenches it away, then slithers its own head,
like an arm into an evening glove, up the intestinal tract. And so it goes40 desperate birds at
ve golf-ball-size holes.
Eventually, two lappet-faced vultures make
their move. These spectacular-looking animals
stand more than a yard tall, with wingspans of
nine feet. (In treetops, they make stick nests
as big as king-size beds.) Their faces are pink,
their bills large and deeply arched, and their
powerful necks festooned with crepey roseate
skin and a brown Tudor ruf. While one lappet
hammers a hole in the wildebeests shoulder,
the other excavates behind a sinus, in hopes of
nding juicy boty larvae. Sinews and skin snap.
Now a white-backed rams its head down the
wildebeests throat and yanks out an eight-inch
78national geographic jan uary

2016

length of trachea, ribbed like a vacuum hose.

But before the vulture can enjoy it, the fourfoot-tall marabou stork thats been stily lurking snatches the windpipe away, tosses it once
for perfect alignment, and swallows it whole.
Thanks to the labors of the lappets, which favor sinew over muscle, the wildebeest is now
wide open. Heads ing blood and mucus into
the air; viscera drip from vulture bills; two birds
play tug-of-war with a ten-foot rope of intestine
coated in dirt and feces.
As the wildebeest shrinks, the circle of sated
birds lounging in the short grass expands. With
bulging crops, the vultures settle their heads
atop folded wings and slide their nictitating
membranes shut. No more sound, no more fury.
As placid as suburban ducks, they rest, at peace
with the world.
The vulture may be the most maligned bird
on the planet, a living metaphor for greed and
rapaciousness. Leviticus and Deuteronomy

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classify vultures as unclean, creatures to be

held in abomination by the children of Israel.
In his diary during the voyage of H.M.S. Beagle
in 1835, Charles Darwin called the birds disgusting, with bald heads formed to wallow in
putridity. Among their many adaptations to
their feculent niche: the ability to vomit their
entire stomach contents when threatened, the
better to take quick ight.
Revolting? Perhaps. But vultures are hardly
without redeeming values. They dont (often)
kill other animals, they probably form monogamous pairs, and we know they share parental
care of chicks, and loaf and bathe in large, congenial groups. Most important, they perform a
crucial but massively underrated ecosystem service: the rapid cleanup, and recycling, of dead animals. By one estimate, vultures either residing
in or commuting into the Serengeti ecosystem
during the annual migrationwhen 1.3 million
white-bearded wildebeests shuffle between
Kenya and Tanzaniahistorically consumed

more meat than all mammalian carnivores in

the Serengeti combined. And they do it fast. A
vulture can wolf more than two pounds of meat
in a minute; a sizable crowd can strip a zebra
nose to tailin 30 minutes. Without vultures,
reeking carcasses would likely linger longer,
insect populations would boom, and diseases
would spreadto people, livestock, and other
wild animals.
But this copacetic arrangement, shaped by
the ages, is not immutable. In fact, in some key
regions its in danger of collapse. Africa had already lost one of its eleven vulture speciesthe
cinereous vultureand now seven others are
listed as either critically endangered or endangered. Some, like the lappet, are found predominantly in protected areas (which are themselves
threatened), and other regional populations of
the Egyptian and bearded vulture are nearly
extinct. Vultures and other scavenging birds,
says Darcy Ogada, assistant director of Africa programs at the
(Continued on page 88)

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In the Serengeti a golden jackal takes umbrage at

an immature white-backed vulture butting in on its
meal of dead wildebeest. Earthbound carnivores such
as jackals and hyenas have limited territories in which
to nd food. Aloft, vultures have a much better view of
the daily menu: They can spot a carcass 20 miles away.

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EATER OF THE DEAD

Bald head
Baldness in many vulture
species is related to
thermoregulation and hygiene.
Head feathers would catch
gore and viscera.

The only land-based vertebrates that can thrive solely on

scavenging, vultures are crucial to ecosystem balance. Because
they can quickly devour large amounts of lesh and their stomach
acids neutralize pathogens, vultures may help limit the spread
of bacteria and diseases such as anthrax and rabies. But their
numbers have been plummeting worldwide, with several
populations at risk of collapse.

Eyes
Compared with raptors
that hunt, vultures have less
powerful eyesight but still
excel at spotting carcasses
and converging scavengers.

Crop
Some vultures can s
to 20 percent of the
weight in consumed
in this enlarged sec
their esophagus.

Rppells vulture
Gyps rueppelli

Space between
primary feathers
reduces drag and
lowers stalling speed
while maintaining lift.

Primary feathers

Suited for Scavenging

Wings
Broad wings and long
primary feathers, compared
with other soaring birds, enable
energy-eficient gliding on even
the weakest air currents.

Vultures bulk allows them to survive

on body reserves between discoveries of
carrion. Anatomical adaptations help them
expend as little energy as possible when
soaring on thermals over rangesup to
185,000 square milesin search of food.

Secondaries

Beak
Hooked bills help with
ripping meat. Still, only the
largest vultures can tear open
a carcass, allowing smaller
vultures to access innards.

Nostrils
Turkey and yellow-headed
vulture species have a keen
sense of smell, unique
among birds, with nostrils
not divided by a septum.

Hooded
vulture

Tongue
Vultures have adapt
like deep grooves a
backward-facing ba
for quickly gulping h
portions of carrion.
Backwardfacing barbs

White-backed
vulture

Vulture

Albatross

Lappet-faced
vulture

Sailplane

Rppells
vulture

Turkey
vulture

23 Species
of Vulture
Critically endangered
Endangered
Near threatened
Least concern

California
condor
Wingspan
9.25 feet

Whiterumped
8 ft

Rppells
vulture
7.9 ft

Indian
vulture
7.5 ft

Red-headed
vulture
7.5 ft

Slenderbilled
7.5 ft

Whiteheaded
7.5 ft

Categories relect global population rankings. Regional rankings may differ.

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Whitebacked
7.2 ft

Hooded
vulture
6 ft

Lappet-faced
vulture
9.2 ft

Cap
vult
8.4

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Gut
Highly corrosive,
bacteria-killing stomach
acids give vultures a
high tolerance to toxins
in decaying lesh.

store up
eir body
d lesh
tion of

Number of species

There are 23 species of vulture divided into two

families by hemisphere, New World and Old World,
each facing threats.

None
1

A SIA

NORT H
E UR O P E

AMERI C A

A FR ICA
Crop
SO UT H
A M E R ICA
Gizzard
A UST R A L IA
Intestines

Feet
Vultures spend more
time on the ground than
other raptors, and have
developed latter feet and
shorter, less curved claws.

tations
and
arbs
hefty

pe
ture
ft

States of Decline

RECOVERING

DECLINING

CRASHED

When counts of California

condors began in the early
1900s, the birds ranks had
already been decimated.
After decades of conservation
efforts, numbers are growing,
but lead poisoning from spent
ammunition in scavenged
carcasses is still a threat.

Poisoned by herders aiming

to protect their livestock
and by poachers afraid that
circling vultures will give away
their location, some groups
are shrinking by as much as 50
percent a decade. Traditional
healers believe vulture brains
grant the ability to see the future.

Indias populations plunged

in the mid-1990s. Hindu belief
prohibits consumption of beef,
so cows that die are disposed
of outdoors. Vultures died of
kidney failure after eating cows
that had been treated with the
bovine drug diclofenac. The drug
was banned in India in 2006.

California Condor
Population

Causes for Decline in

African Vultures

Birds Counted in India

Transect Surveys

2012
235

1950
150 wild condors

Turkey
vulture

2012
169
1967
1 captive

Rppells
vulture

1% Killing for food

9% Electrical infrastructure
29% Killing for traditional
medicine

1992

61% Poisoning

-96.8%
Indian and
Slender-billed
0

Golden
eagle

Egyptian
vulture
5.5 ft

Andean
condor
10 ft

Cinereous
vulture
9.5 ft

Himalayan
griffon
9.5 ft

2007

2000
vultures

Bearded
vulture
8.6 ft

Griffon
vulture
8.5 ft

Greater
yellow-headed
6.75 ft

King
vulture
6.6 ft

Turkey
vulture
6.5 ft

Lesser
yellow-headed
6.25 ft

Black
vulture
6 ft

-99.9%
White-rumped

Palm-nut
vulture
4.9 ft

Human
6 ft

MATTHEW TWOMBLY AND LAUREN C. TIERNEY, NGM STAFF; MESA SCHUMACHER. ART: MATTIAS SNYGG
SOURCES: DARCY OGADA, PEREGRINE FUND; SIMON THOMSETT, NATIONAL MUSEUMS OF KENYA; STEVE KIRKLAND, U.S. FISH AND
WILDLIFE SERVICE; BIRDLIFE INTERNATIONAL; VIBHU PRAKASH, JOURNAL OF THE BOMBAY NATURAL HISTORY SOCIETY, 2007

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A young Rppells vulture reaches in to grab a morsel

of zebra in the Serengeti. Older and more dominant birds
have taken their ll of the choice meat, leaving the skin
and bones for youngsters and white-backed vultures.
Watch a video of the feast at ngm.com/more.

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A Rppells vulture glides in to join the party at a carcass in the Serengeti. Adult Rppells
have a wingspan of up to eight feet. Riding thermals 12,000 feet or more above sea level,
Rppells vultures can eat in four African countries in a single foray. The dominant species in
East Africa, the white-backed and Rppells, can glide more than a hundred miles a day.

Peregrine Fund, are the most threatened avian

functional group in the world.
On a sunny March day Ogada is traveling with
her colleague Munir Virani in the Masai Mara
region of Kenya. Virani is here not to study
his beloved birds but to speak with herdsmen
about their cows. Livestock husbandry, it turns
out, is essential to vulture welfare. As our truck
weaves through ocks of sheep and goats, Virani
explains how the Maasai have in recent years
leased their land, which rings the northern
section of the Masai Mara National Reserve, to
conservancies established to protect wildlife by
excluding pastoralists and their livestock. Some
Maasai claim the conservancies have lured more
lions and other carnivores to the area. (The
conservancies are contiguous and unfenced.)
Meanwhile populations of wildebeests and other resident ungulates in the Mara ecosystem
Q Society Grant Your Society membership helped
conserve threatened vultures in India and Kenya.
88national geographic jan uary

2016

are facing threats from poaching, prolonged

drought, and conversion of savanna to cropland
and real estate. This in itself would be bad news
for vultures, but theres worse.
Virani asks every Maasai we meet: Have you
lost any livestock to predators recently? The
answer is always, Yes, and my neighbors have
too. Usually the lions attack at night, when the
cattle are penned inside bomascorrals ringed
with thorny brush. The lions roar, then terried
cattle stampede, crash through the boma gate,
and scatter. Dogs bark, waking their owners, but
its usually too late. The killing of a single cow
represents a loss of 30,000 shillings ($300), a
signicant blow to families that use livestock as
currency (a bull can be worth 100,000 shillings).
Next comes retaliation: The men tie up their
dogs, retrieve whats left of the lions kill, and
sprinkle it with a generic form of Furadan, a
cheap, fast-acting pesticide thats readily available under the table. The lion returns to feed,
most likely with its family, and the entire pride

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succumbs. (Researchers estimate that Kenya loses
a hundred lions a year in these conflicts. The
country has roughly 1,600 lions left.) Inevitably
vultures also visit the livestock carcass, or they
eat the poisoned lions themselves. Whatever the
vector, the birds, which can feed in wakes of
more than a hundred individuals, all die as well.
Its hard to believe that just a few granules
of a compound designed to kill worms and other invertebrates can lay low an animal whose
gastric juices are acidic enough to neutralize
rabies, cholera, and anthrax. Indeed, Furadan
was scarcely on Ogadas radar until 2007, when
she began receiving emails from colleagues
about poisoned lions. That raised some eyebrows, she says. Tourism is Kenyas second
largest source of foreign income, and lions are
the nations star attraction. In 2008 scientists
and representatives from conservation groups
and government agencies convened in Nairobi
to share information on poisonings and plan a
response. Jaws dropped, Ogada remembers.
The problem was far larger than any of us,
working locally, knew. Once Ogada and others began to study the problem, they estimated
that poisoning accounts for 61 percent of vulture
deaths, Africa-wide. The anthropogenic threat is
compounded by vultures reproductive biology:
They dont reach sexual maturity until ve to
seven years of age, they produce a chick only
once every year or two, and 90 percent of their
young die in the first year. Over the next half
century vulture numbers on the continent are
projected to decline by 70 to 97 percent.
As bad as the African situation appears, it
has been worse elsewhere. In India populations
of the most common vultureswhite-rumped,
long-billed, and slender-billeddeclined by
more than 96 percent in just a single decade.
Then in 2003 researchers from the Peregrine
Fund definitively linked bird carcasses with
cattle that had been treated with an antiinammatory called diclofenac. Initially prescribed for arthritis and other pain in humans,
the drug had been approved for veterinary use
in 1993. In vultures, diclofenac causes kidney

failure: Autopsies reveal organs coated with

white crystals.
The Indian die-off received a lot of attention because its downstream effects were so
startling. India has one of the largest cattle
populations in the world, but most Indians
dont eat beef. After millions of vultures fell
victim to poisoning, dead cattle started piling
up. Then the dog populationreleased from
competing with vultures for scavenged food
leaped by 7 million, to 29 million animals over
an 11-year period. The result: an estimated
38.5 million additional dog bites. Rat populations soared. Deaths from rabies increased by
nearly 50,000, which cost Indian society roughly $34 billion in mortality, treatment expenses,
and lost wages. Indias Parsi community in
Mumbai was alarmed to note another change.
The corpses they ritually place on elevated
stone platforms for sky burialin which vultures liberate the souls of the dead so that they
can reach heavenwere taking months longer
to disappear, because there were no vultures
left to feed on them.
After researchers proved that diclofenac
was to blame for the vulture die-off, in 2006
veterinary use of the drug was banned in India, Pakistan, and Nepal. (Its still given to cattle clandestinely.) Bangladesh followed suit
in 2010, and in mid-June 2015, a coalition of
conservation groups urged the European
Commission to ban the drugs use in animals.
A response is pending. In combination with
captive-breeding programs and vulture restaurants, which serve safe meat from farms or
abattoirs to wild birds, the campaign has done
some good. Nine years on, Indian vulture declines have slowed, and in some regions their
numbers have even begun to increase. But the
population of the three hardest-hit species
remains a small fraction of its former millions.
Ogada isnt hopeful that Africa will follow
Indias lead in responding to the vulture crisis. There has been little government action
to conserve vultures in Kenya, she says, and
no political will to limit the use of carbofurans,

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Conservationists in Namibia use a car side-door

mirror on a pole to peek into a lappet-faced vultures
nest in a tree. If they nd a chick thats old enough,
theyll retrieve it, wing tag it, and put it back. Females
may lay only one egg every year or two, so every
chicks survival is critical to the populations future.

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Like gargoyles carved in stone, Cape vultures (Gyps

coprotheres) glower down from an articial nesting
cliff near Magaliesburg, South Africa. The breeding,
research, and rehabilitation facility is run by VulPro,
a group working to restore African vulture numbers.

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VulPro founder Kerri Wolter brings a Cape vulture, its wing injured when it ew into a power
line, to a veterinarian near Pretoria. Poisoning by poachers is the biggest threat to African
vultures, but power-line collisions pose another. Conservationists are urging Africas power
companies to help nd solutions to the threat their lines present to vultures and other birds.

the chemical family that includes Furadan. And

although vultures in India face just one major
threatunintentional poisoningvultures in
Africa face many more.
In July 2012, 191 vultures died after feasting
on an elephant that had been poached and then
sprinkled with poison in a Zimbabwean national park. A year later roughly 500 vultures were
killed after feeding on a poison-laced elephant
in Namibia. Why do poachers, intent on ivory,
target vultures in this way? Because their kettling in the sky over dead elephants and rhinoceroses alerts game wardens to their activities,
Ogada says. Ivory poachers now account for
one-third of all East African vulture poisonings.
Cultural practices have also taken a toll
on vultures. According to Andr Botha, co-chair
of the vulture specialist group at the International Union for Conservation of Nature,
many of the birds found at poached carcasses
are missing their heads and feeta sure sign
theyve been sold for muti, or traditional healing.
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Shoppers at southern African markets have little trouble buying body parts believed to cure a
range of ailments or impart strength, speed, and
endurance. Dried vulture brain is also popular:
Mixed with mud and smoked, its said to conjure
guidance from beyond.
Still, the biggest existential threat to African
vultures remains the ubiquitous availability and
use of poisons. FMC, the Philadelphia-based
maker of Furadan, began buying back the compound from distribution channels in Kenya,
Uganda, and Tanzaniaand suspended sales in
South Africafollowing a 60 Minutes segment
on lion poisonings in 2009. But the compound,
in generic form, persists. Agriculture is the second largest industry in Kenya, and the nation
has a long history of using toxins to combat outbreaks of disease and pests. Anyone can walk into
a Kenyan agro-veterinary shop and, for less than
two dollars, buy highly toxic pesticides of the
shelfto kill insects, mice, feral dogs, hyenas,
leopards, jackals, and even sh and ducks meant

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for human consumption. (Poachers claim, erroneously, that removing the animals entrails, then
slowly roasting the carcass, detoxies the esh.)
You cannot have agriculture in the tropics
without pesticides, Charles Musyoki, former
head of species management for the Kenya
Wildlife Service, says. So we need to educate
the public about their correct and safe use.
What the public understands now is that carbofurans are cheap, reliable, andcompared
with stalking and spearing a predatorrisk free.
To date, the government hasnt prosecuted a
single poisoner of vultures. Poisoning predators is just part of the culture, Ogada says with a
shrug. Indigenous groups have always protected
their herds, and the descendants of Europeans
who introduced cheap synthetic poisons in the
rst placehave been slaughtering mammalian
and avian carnivores in Africa for more than
300 years.
After a long day of speaking with Maasai
herdsmen, Virani and Ogada are eager for the
sun to set, not to escape the heat but to witness
the icking of an electrical switch. In the gloaming, Virani parks his jeep outside a compound
that sits in the pounded dust bowl between the
50,000-acre Mara Naboisho Conservancy, to the
east, and the 400,000-acre Masai Mara reserve,
to the west. Under a velvet sky glimmering with
stars, Virani stares at a boma and, when a dozen
lightbulbs strung between fence posts blink on,
breaks into a grin.
Balloon safari operators, who ascend before
daybreak, have complained about this nighttime
light pollution. But to Virani these ashing bulbs,
connected to a solar battery, are a minor miracle,
the safest, most cost-efective way to keep predators away from cattle pens and short-circuit the
retaliatory poisoning thats decimating vultures.
A photojournalist specializing in
wildlife and conservation, Charlie
Hamilton James evaded a charging
rhino, fought off illness from a tick
bite, and drove through vulture feeding frenzies to photograph this story.

The lights cost between 25,000 and 35,000

shillings per boma, Virani saysbetween $250
and $350, with the Peregrine Fund picking up
half of that. Prevent one cattle predation, and
theyve paid for themselves. In their rst six
months of deployment in this part of the Mara,
lion attacks on 40 bomas with arrays went
down by 90 percent. So far, carnivores and
elephantswhich commute between the conservancies and the reserve, often through Maasai vegetable patchesare still avoiding the
lights, but lack of maintenance and mismanagement of the systems (siphoning power to
charge phones, for example) have reduced their
efectiveness. Still, demand for the arrays far
outpaces supply.
On the Serengeti, about 150 miles to the south
of the Masai Mara, the sun rises on three adult
hyenas, shoulder deep in yet another dead wildebeest. Now and then the feathered audience
that has gathered at this theater-in-the-round
advances toward the stage, only to be rebufed
by the principal actors raising their chins and
curling their black lips. The vultures take the
hint. There is, between the four-legged and the
two-, a palpable respect: Hyenas rely on vultures to locate kills, and vultures rely on hyenas
to quickly bust them open.
Eventually the hyenas are full enough to retreat, cuing the birds to swarm. Now the carcass
rocks back and forth as two dozen vultures rip,
slurp, pry, and tug. Suddenly a lappet drops out
of the sky, then bashes skulls with two other
lappets standing innocently on the periphery.
The aggressor wheels, ducks its head, raises
its massive wings, then mounts the wildebeest
in triumph. They are the most amusing animals, Simon Thomsett, a vulture expert ailiated with the National Museums of Kenya, says,
Did you use any unconventional techniques to
create these images?
I modiied a small camera
and placed it in a dead
zebra. I triggered it from

a hundred yards away.

The vultures composed
these images by kicking
and scufling, knocking
my camera around the
zebras rib cage.

HECTOR
SKEVINGTON-POSTLES

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Sprinkled on carrion, a few ounces of the insecticide carbofuran (above) can kill a hundred
vultures. Poisoned birds that are caught quickly or havent consumed too much may be saved
if given a dose of the drug atropine and fed charcoal, which absorbs the poison. At right,
a white-backed vulture recovers at the VulPro facility. The bird was later released.

binoculars to his eyes. You certainly couldnt

spend this long watching a lion.
Hours pass, the bloody players come and go:
hyenas, jackals, storks, scavenging eagles, and
four species of vulture. Despite the apparent
hysteria, everyone gets a chance, partitioning
the carcass in time and space according to social
status and physical ability.
Both Thomsett and Ogada, who often collaborate, have spent much time pondering what
would happen if vultures were subtracted from
this cast of characters. Running field experiments with goat carcasses over a two-year
period, Ogada learned that in the absence of
vultures, carcasses took nearly three times as
long to decompose, the number of mammals
visiting carcasses tripled, and the amount of
time these animals stayed at the carcass also
nearly tripled.
Why do these data matter? Because the longer jackals, leopards, lions, hyenas, genets, mongooses, and dogs commune with one another
96national geographic jan uary

2016

at a carcass, the more likely they are to spread

pathogenswhich die in vulture stomachsto
other animals, both wild and domesticated. By
eating wildebeest placenta, Thomsett tells me
from his perch in the jeep, vultures also prevent
cattle from contracting malignant catarrh, an
often fatal herpes virus. And by reducing carcasses to bones within hours, they suppress
insect populations, linked with eye diseases in
both people and livestock.
Vultures are more important, in terms of
services to humanity, than the big five that
everyone comes here to see, he says. Their loss,
scientists believe, would likely set of an ecological and economic catastrophe.
Although poisoning is the proximate driver
of Africas vulture decline, the plain-speaking
Thomsett stresses its root cause: too many people. Kenyas population is expected to reach
81 million, from todays 44 million, by 2050.
And the Maasai are among the fastest growing
groups in the country.

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Thomsett lowers his binoculars and expands

on the list of anthropogenic threats to Kenyas
vultures. Farmers are planting corn and wheat
around protected areas to feed the growing population, he says. Less grassland means fewer
ungulates for vultures to eat. The government
hasnt been able to stop drilling for geothermal wells within 300 meters (328 yards) of
endangered Rppells nesting sites, he continues. Vultures are also killed in collisions with
high-tension power lines. The Kenya Wildlife
Service has yet to write, let alone implement,
a strategic plan for vulnerable vulture species.
(Such a plan is imminent, the services Charles
Musyoki told me.)
In December 2013 Kenya passed an act that
imposes a fine of up to 20 million shillings
($200,000) or life imprisonment on anyone
linked with killing an endangered species. And
the Kenya Wildlife Service is said to be planning a campaign to shift the publics perception
of vultures. But without better investigating

and enforcement of anti-poisoning laws, to

say nothing of convicting perpetrators, Ogada
and Thomsett agree, such campaigns wont be
nearly enough to save the regions birds. More
immediately effective, they say, would be for
the government to accept an ofer from a landowner in southwestern Kenya. He has ofered
to sell land containing one of the nations most
important breeding clifs for the critically endangered Rppells vulture.
Thomsett continues to observe the vultures
wallowing in putridity, making detailed sketches
of their heads and feet in a thick notebook, until
the birds have eaten their ll and the wildebeest
resembles a wrinkled blue-gray rug, with hooves.
In the days to come, any remaining scraps of skin
and sinew will be ravaged by the elements, by insects, fungi, and microbes. The ungulates larger
bones will persist for years, but in the meantime
its basic building blocks will cycle onin the soil,
in vegetation, and in every glorious vulture that
fed on its prodigal abundance today.j

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INTO THIN ICE

The Arctic ice pack is dwindling. What will that do to the planet?

To track changes in sea ice, the

Norwegian research vessel Lance
drifted along with it for ve months in
2015, on a rare voyage from Arctic
winter into spring. In late February the
sky hints at the coming of the sun.

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In early March, after shoveling away

three feet of snow, scientists from the
Lance melt a hole through the ice to
collect plankton and water samples.
Most Arctic eldwork is carried out
between spring and fall.

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Tailing a Norwegian
Coast Guard icebreaker
that was following
leadsfractures in the
icethe Lance penetrated to 83 degrees north.
Much of the thick,
perennial ice in the Arctic
has given way to thinner
oes that form and melt
within a single year.

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In the 1890s the Norwegian ship Fram (above) drifted for three years
in the Arctic ice, hoping to reach the North Pole. With the Pole on its
way to becoming an open-water tourist attraction, at least in summer,
scientists on the Lance (right) studied how the loss of ice affects the
environment. One of their tools: a tethered, instrument-laden balloon.
NATIONAL LIBRARY OF NORWAY

By Andy Isaacson
Photographs by Nick Cobbing

T


he sea ice that blankets the

Arctic Ocean isnt the unbroken white mantle depicted
in maps. Its a jigsaw puzzle
of restless oes that are constantly colliding, deforming,
and fracturing from the force
of wind and ocean currents. Last February I
stood shivering on the deck of the Lance, an old
Norwegian research vessel, as it picked a path
through a labyrinth of navigable fractures. A
barren white plain of ice and snow extended
to the horizon in every direction. The ships
steel hull shuddered and screeched as it plowed
through oating chunks of jagged ice. The Lance
was seeking a solid patch of ice to attach tothe
last one had shatteredso that it could resume
its erratic drift across the frozen sea, charting
104national geographic Jan uary

2016

the fate of Arctic sea ice by going with the oe.

The Norwegians have done this before, more
than a century ago, when polar explorer Fridtjof Nansen and the Fram were locked in pack
ice for nearly three years during a vain attempt
to drift across the North Pole. But the Arctic
is a different ocean now. The air above it has
warmed on average about 5 degrees Fahrenheit
in the past century, more than twice the global
average. Much less of the ocean is covered by
ice, and much more of that ice is thinner, seasonal ice rather than thick, old oes. A feedback
loop with far-reaching consequences has taken
effect: As white ice is replaced in summer by
dark ocean water, which absorbs more sunlight,
the water and air heat furtheramplifying the
ongoing thaw.
The Arctic warms rst, most, and fastest,

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explains Kim Holmn, the long-bearded international director of the Norwegian Polar Institute (NPI), which operates the Lance. Climate
models predict that by as early as 2040 it will be
possible in summer to sail across open water to
the North Pole.
Arctic sea ice helps cool the whole planet by
reecting sunlight back into space. So its loss
inevitably will afect the climate and weather
beyond the Arctic, but precisely how remains
unclear. Better forecasts require better data
on sea ice and its shifting, uneven distribution.
Most scientic cruises to the Arctic are conducted in summer, and this is where we have the
most eld data, says Gunnar Spreen, an NPI
sea-ice physicist I met on board the Lance. The
continuous changes that occur from winter into
spring are a huge gap in our understanding.

On the Lances five-month mission its rotating crew of international scientists would
investigate the causes and efects of ice loss by
monitoring the ice across its entire seasonal life
cyclefrom the time when it formed in winter
until it melted in summer.
A few days after photographer Nick Cobbing
and I joined the ship by icebreaker and helicopter from Longyearbyen, on the island of Spitsbergen in the Svalbard archipelagothe base for
NPIs Arctic operationsthe Lance steamed to
83 degrees north, just west of Russian territory.
The scientists singled out a half-mile-wide oe
of predominantly seasonal ice that they hoped
to study. The crew tethered the vessel to the
oe with nylon ropes attached to thick metal
poles driven into the ice. They shut of the main
engine. Isolated and in near darkness, we began

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I n t o T h i n I c e 105

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ARCTIC CIRCLE

RUSSIA
ALASKA
(U.S.)

Chukchi
Sea
Summer ice
Concentration, September 2015
15%

1980

100%

Cycling
Toward
Oblivion

Average extent in September

Median, 1980-2000
Minimum, 2012
Minimum, 1980

Sea

200

0 mi
0 km

Bea ufort

200

CANADA

2012

C
T I
A R C
North Pole
2012

MARCH 1
Ba ffin
Ba y

1980

FEBRUARY 1

Fr
am

MAY 1

it
ra
St

Ba r en ts
Sea

Sp

JUNE 23
END

AY R D
)

Longyearbyen

e rgen

(DE NM AR K )

itsb

GREENLAND

Every winter almost the en

surface of the Arctic Ocea
over. The ice typically reac
maximum extent in March
right), then starts to melt, r
to its minimum in Septemb
But the melt season is now
weeks longer than it was ju
decades ago. Less ice sur
summer to thicken the follo
winter. The summer ice is a
concentrated, with more o
between loes. Because o
absorbs more solar heat, m
melts, creating a positive f
that ampliies the warming
melting. The Arctic will con
freeze in winterbut it cou
free in summer by 2040.

B
AL W
S V NOR
(

Path of the research

vessel Lance, 2015

JANUARY 6
START

60N

SEPTEMBER 2015
At summers end Arctic sea ice had
shrunk to its fourth smallest extent since
satellites began measuring it in 1979.
The past nine years were the nine smallest. One reason: the low concentration
of ice. Light blue areas are mostly water.

Troms

FINLAND

Norwegia n
Sea
SWEDEN

1 0 E

ICELAND

NORWAY

50

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LAUREN E. JAMES, JASON TREAT,

AND RYAN WILLIAMS, NGM STAFF

SOURCES: MARK TSCHUDI, CHARLES FOWLE

JAMESMASLANIK, COLORADO CENTER FOR A
RESEARCH, UNIVERSITY OF COLORADO BOU
STEELE AND WENDY ERMOLD, POLAR SCIENC
UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON; JULIENNE STR
SNOW AND ICE DATA CENTER; CLAIRE L. PARK

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Average ice extent in million square miles
WINTER (March)

Winter Ice:
Younger, Thinner
Maps of the Arctic in March and charts
of the ices age (right) show a 75 percent
decline in the oldest, thickest iceice that
has survived at least four summers and
is into its ifth year or more. Most sea ice
now freezes and melts in less than a year.

ER, AND
ASTRODYNAMICS
LDER; MICHAEL
CE CENTER,
ROEVE,NATIONAL
KINSON, NASA

Age of ice
0-1 years

1-2 years
2-3 years
3-4 years
4+ years
1985

ntire
n freezes
ches its
(maps,
receding
ber (left).
w three
ust four
rvives the
owing
also less
open water
pen water
more ice
feedback
g and
ntinue to
uld be ice

SUMMER (September)
4

2015

1985

2015

2000

1985

2015

Albedo Effect

Warmer Waters

Ice and snow relect some 85 percent of solar

radiation; open water is dark and absorbs 93
percent. As the water warms, it melts more ice
a feedback whose effects reach beyond the Arctic.

Sea-surface temperatures in the Arctic are

increasing. The warmer water makes it harder
for sea ice to form and to survive. Seawater
freezes at about 28.4 degrees Fahrenheit.

Ice and snow

Bare
e ice

Mean Arctic Ocean surface temperature, September

in degrees Fahrenheit

Open water

2007: 32.3F

85%

65%

7%

32

of sunlight
relected
SNOW
ICE

31
OPEN
WATER

15%

35%

93%

absorbed

30
1985

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1995

2005

2015

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Extreme Weather:
An Arctic Connection?
1979
2.78

The polar jet stream is a high-altitude air current that separates

low-pressure Arctic airaka the polar vortexfrom warmer,
high-pressure air to the south. When the jet dips far south,
it can deliver blasts of cold and snow to temperate
latitudes; a north-jutting ridge promotes heat
and drought. Such extreme weather has
been happening a lot lately. Scientists are debating whether thats
primarily due to the shifting
cycles of the Paciicor
A
I
S
whether the melting
A
Arctic plays a
key role.

Arctic ice, average

September extent
in million square miles
2015
1.79

LOW
PRESSURE

DISAPPEARING

LD

I CE
Since satellites began regularly measuring
Arctic sea ice in 1979, it has declined sharply
in extent and thickness. Much of the ice thats
there in winter is thin stuff that doesnt survive
the summer. The loss of ice is affecting the
entire Arctic ecosystem, from plankton to polar
bears. And some scientists think that, by alterr
ing the jet stream, its affecting weatherand
peoplearound the Northern Hemisphere.

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A N D W ET

WA

RM

AIR

FR

OM

SO

JE

P A C I F I C
O C E A N

The Pacific
Its considered the main inluence on the polar
jet streams pathand on weather patterns
globallybecause of the huge amount of solar
heat its tropical regions absorb and release. If
the jet is indeed getting wavier, some scientists
argue, the Paciic is overwhelmingly to blame.

NORTH

Every dec
air rises fr
pattern ac
and push
far north

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The Arctic
The Arctic is warming faster than the rest of the planet,
in part because of the feedback caused by the loss of sea
ice. According to a controversial theory, Arctic warming is
causing the jet to slow down and meander more. The result:
unseasonable weather that sits in one place for a long time.

STRAIGHTER
JET STREAM

ST R

ON

The jet stream gets most of its

energy from the temperature
contrast between the air
masses it separates. A strong
jet is a straighter jet that keeps
cold air bottled up in the Arctic.

Temperature

30
Midlatitudes

GRE

ENLA

ND
WE A K

A T L A N T I C
O C E A N

FI

S tr

ai

R T
A
N O
I C
R
E
A M

Sea-surface
temperature
anomalies

ET

ST

LOW
PRESSURE

Warmer

RE

AM

re

am

JET STR E A M

cade or so, warm

rom a horseshoe
cross the Paciic
hes the jet stream
into Alaska.

ie
Wav

Cooler

PACIFIC MODE

EL NIO

AN

DR

LATITUDE

90
Pole

Extreme
Persistence

ET
DW

30
Midlatitudes

AN

CI

er

LD

PA

t
gh

As the Arctic warms faster than

the midlatitudes, the temperature contrast decreases. That
weakens the jet, letting Arctic
air low southover eastern
North America, for instance.

UT

et
st
re
am

HIGH
PRESSURE

90
Pole

WAVIER
JET STREAM

HIGH
PRESSURE
Ice-free water absorbs more solar
heat in summer, then releases it
in winter, as the water refreezes.
Heat and water vapor rising from
the ocean raise air pressure and
moisture and may affect the jet.

LATITUDE

r je

ts

When warm water sloshes

into the eastern Paciic during
an El Nio, the heat it releases
can draw the jet stream south,
carrying rain to California.

Whatever their cause, big

jet stream meanders move
slowly around the planet.
That means the weather
they carry stays in one
place for a long time. Think
of California parched below
a persistent high-pressure
ridge or New England
buried under polar vortex
snows in early 2015.

Early winter 2012 ice extent shown

LAUREN E. JAMES, JASON TREAT,
AND RYAN WILLIAMS, NGM STAFF
ART: NICK KALOTERAKIS
SOURCES: JENNIFER FRANCIS, RUTGERS
UNIVERSITY; DENNIS HARTMANN,
UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON

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The upshot of all this, as ecologist Ian Stirling bluntly puts it: The Arctic

our wayward drift and our month-long shift in

the ice desert.
Like homesteaders, the scientists established
camps on the floe, pitching tents and laying
electric cables. Physicists like Spreen mapped
the ice topography with lasers and recorded
the thickness and temperature of the snow on
top. Oceanographers bored a hole through the
ice to gather data about the water and the currents. Meteorologists erected masts carrying
instruments to collect weather data and measure greenhouse gases. Biologists searched for
ice algae, which look like dirt and live on the
underside of the ice and in the channels of
trapped brine left after newly formed sea ice
expels salt. In a few weeks, after the returning
sun cast aside the cloak of polar night and began
ltering through the melting oe, the scientists
would watch the ecosystem awaken.
Temperatures regularly plunged to 30 degrees
below zero Fahrenheit. Scientists had to contend
with numb ngers, snapped cables, and crippled
electronic instruments, along with the danger of
roving polar bears. This is really extreme science, one researcher said.
In 2007 the UN Intergovernmental Panel on
Climate Change (IPCC) warned that the impacts
of climate change in the Arctic over the next century will exceed the impacts forecast for many
other regions and will produce feedbacks that
will have globally significant consequences.
Nearly a decade later this grim forecast is already being borne out. Probably no region has
been more afected by climate change than the
Arctic. Permafrost is thawing, and the land is
greening, as tree lines creep north and shrubs
and grasses invade the tundra. Certain populations of polar bears, walruses, and caribou have
sufered signicant declines. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA)
oceanographer James Overland says, The
Arctic really is the canary showing that climate
change is real.
Since 1979, when satellite records began, the
Arctic has lost more than half its volume of ice,
which has diminished in both overall area and
112national geographic Jan uary

2016

thickness. The frozen area shrinks to its annual

minimum in September, at summers end. In
September 2012 its extent was just half the average during the 1980s and 90s. The maximum
ice extent in winter, usually reached in March,
also is declining, though at a slower rate; its
average thickness has decreased by half. What
was once mostly a layer of 10- to 13-foot-thick
ice floes that lingered for yearsperennial
icehas given way to large tracts of thinner,
less reective ice that forms and melts during
a single year. Sea-ice coverage has always uctuated naturally, but theres little doubt among
scientists that man-made greenhouse gases are
now accelerating its decline. Old, thick sea ice
was a global reservoir for cold, but that is now
changing, Overland says.
An entire ecosystem is melting away. The loss
of sea ice may take a toll on some of the photosynthesizing organisms that fuel the marine
food chainsingle-celled algae that live under
the ice and bloom in the spring when the light
returns. Changes in the magnitude and timing
of these blooms, as winter ice retreats faster
and earlier, may throw of the life cycle of tiny,
fatty zooplankton called copepods, which eat
the algae and are in turn eaten by arctic cod, seabirds, and bowhead whales. For marine mammals such as the polar bear, Pacic walrus, and
ringed seal, the loss of hundreds of thousands of
square miles of sea ice has already been devastating. Its like someone took the oor out from
under you, says Kristin Laidre, a polar scientist
at the University of Washington.
The assumption is that later this century,
without a home eld, these animals will simply
lose all competitive advantage. Killer whales,
for example, are likely to replace polar bears as
the top marine predators, as bears retreat to the
dwindling remnants of summer sea ice. Though
polar bears sometimes spend time on land,
where lately a few have been hybridizing with
grizzlies, Ian Stirling of the University of Alberta, a leading polar bear expert, dismisses any notion that they could survive long-term on land as
wishful thinking. Ice-free conditions are likely to draw in other competitorszooplankton

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marine ecosystem as we know it now will no longer exist.

The piece of ice at right froze fast on a cold, calm night; polarized light shining through the thin section
reveals tightly packed columns of crystals. Algae bloom under Arctic ice and often inside it, in channels
of trapped brine. The algae are grazed by small crustaceans like the amphipod Eusirus holmi (left), which
are in turn eaten by sh. The ice supports a food web that reaches up to seals and polar bears.
PETER LEOPOLD, NORWEGIAN POLAR INSTITUTE (LEFT)

(maybe less fatty and nutritious ones), fish,

sealsfrom more temperate waters.
Ice loss is also making the Arctic even more
vulnerable to ocean acidication, another efect
of rising atmospheric carbon dioxide. Cold water absorbs more CO2 than warm water does,
and more cold water is now open to the air. As
the water acidifies, it loses carbonate. Within the next 15 years it may no longer contain
enough for animals such as sea snails and Alaska king crabs to construct and maintain their
calcium-carbonate shells.
The upshot of all this, as Stirling bluntly puts
it: The Arctic marine ecosystem as we know it
now will no longer exist.
Warmer air above the ocean basin is projected to spill down over the surrounding coasts of
Russia, Alaska, and Canada, causing feedback
efects as far as 900 miles inland, including accelerated melting of the Greenland ice sheet
and large emissions of carbon dioxide and
methane from thawing tundra. IPCC models
forecast that the total loss of summer sea ice
may in itself cause one-third of the warming

of the Northern Hemisphere and 14 percent of

total global warming by the end of the century.
How a rapidly warming Arctic will inuence
weather across the hemisphere is a bit hazier.
Atmospheric scientists Jennifer Francis at Rutgers University and Steve Vavrus at the University of Wisconsin have suggested that people
in the continental United States already may
be feeling the efects of melting Arctic sea ice
especially in the past two winters in the east,
which made polar vortex household words.
The polar vortex is the mass of cold air thats
normally conned over the Pole by the polar
jet streamthe high-altitude, fast-moving torrent of air that snakes around the Pole from
west to east. The jet stream draws most of its
energy from the contrast in temperature and
pressure between the frigid air to its north and
the warmer air to the south. As sea-ice loss amplies the warming in the Arctic, the Francis
theory goes, that contrast is reduced, weakening
the jet streams westerly winds. It becomes a
lazier, more sinuous river, with large meanders
that extend far to the south and north. Because
the meanders advance slowly across the map,

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In late April biologists Piotr Kuklinski,

Pedro Duarte, and Haakon Hop (left
to right) prepare to dive through a
hole in the ice, into a world just being
awakened by the spring sun.
PETER LEOPOLD, NORWEGIAN POLAR INSTITUTE

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whatever weather they enfold persists for a long

time. During the past two winters the wavier
pattern allowed Arctic air and extreme snow to
beset New England and drought to linger over
California. The melting Arctic may be afecting weather elsewhere too. Korean researchers have linked extreme winters in East Asia to
air-circulation changes caused specically by
ice loss in the Barents-Kara Sea.
Its a neat theory, but parts of it remain
fuzzy, Francis admits. Also, many researchers
who study atmospheric dynamics arent buying
it. A more plausible explanation for the wavier
jet stream and the southward excursions of the
polar vortex, some of them argue, is the inuence of the tropical Pacic, which is a far more
powerful source of heat than the Arctic. It will
116national geographic Jan uary

2016

take years of data gathering and modeling to

settle the debate.
In any case, as the warming of the planet continues, cold spells of any kind will become less
common. Even if sharp limits on greenhouse
gas emissions are adopted over the next 20
years, the decline of sea ice will continue for
decades. Were on a one-way trip and not going
back, says Overland. A further rise of 4 degrees
Celsius (7.2 degrees Fahrenheit) in the Arctic is all but assured by mid-century, he says,
enough to keep the ocean ice free for at least
two months of the year, enough to change the
seasons thereenough to afect everything.
In late June, during the final phase of their
expedition, the scientists aboard the Lance

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In a fracture behind
the Lance, water vapor
meets chill air and
freezes to sea smoke.
As dark water replaces
ice, the Arctic Ocean
absorbs more heat in
summer and releases
more in fall and winter
perhaps affecting
weather elsewhere.

awoke to discover that the latest ice oe theyd

attached to was disintegrating too. They scrambled to salvage their gear before it became otsam. It was time to pack up anyway. The vessel
by that point had spent 111 days in the ice, tethered to different floes for several weeks at a
timelogging altogether some 4,000 nautical
miles across the Arctic. Polar bears had crossed
its path, sometimes pausing to play with the scientists strange-looking electronic instruments.
Storms had bulldozed huge blocks of ice high
against the ship, elevating it above the surface.
The Lances crew had bested the researchers in
a soccer match on the oe. Over the next couple
of years the 68 scientists involved will be hunkered in their warm labs, making sense of all the
data they gathered.

One morning in March, under a dusky blue

sky, I had joined Gunnar Spreen and another
NPI researcher, Anja Rsel, on one of their
periodic forays to measure changes in the
ice floes thickness. We each wore insulated
armorjumpsuit, balaclava, goggles, gloves,
mittens over the gloves. The scientists brought
along a snow-depth probe, a GPS device, and an
orange plastic sled carrying the ice-thickness
instrument, which works by inducing an electric current in the seawater below. I carried a
are gun and a .30-06-caliber rie: bear protection. Following a mile-long path staked by bamboo poles, we trudged over dunelike snowdrifts
and pressure ridgesslabs of sea ice pushed up
by colliding oesthat looked like crumbling
stone walls. Every few feet Spreen stopped and
plunged the depth gauge into the snowpack until it beeped to indicate that the measurement
was complete.
Arctic warming seemed an abstract concept
that dayI couldnt really feel my toesbut
across the icescape, Spreen saw evidence of
change. This is an unusual amount of snow,
he noted. Two feet of it lay beneath our moon
boots, twice the amount in a typical year. One
data point doesnt make a trend, but this one
was consistent with model forecasts: As sea ice
shrinks, the extra heat and water vapor released
from the open water into the lower atmosphere
should generate more precipitation.
More snow falling on a glacier on land would
be a good thing, because thats how glaciers
growby accumulating layers of snow so thick
that the stuff at the bottom gets compressed
into ice. But sea ice forms when cold air freezes
seawater, and snow falling on top of it acts as an
insulating blanket that slows the growth of the
ice. As it happened, two weeks after my walk
with Spreen, the National Snow and Ice Data
Center in Colorado announced that Arctic sea
ice had already reached its maximum extent for
the winter in late Februarymuch earlier than
usual. It was the lowest maximum the satellites
had ever recorded.j
The drastic shrinking of Arctic sea
ice led to big changes in the tenth
edition of National Geographics
Atlas of the World, published in
2015. The irst edition of the atlas
was published in 1963.

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I n t o T h i n I c e 117

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Riding the

Rubber

CHINA Workers at Triangle Tyre in Weihai move a three-ton tire for mining vehicles.

118

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Boom

As global car sales soar, the demand for tires is transforming

Southeast Asias landscape. New plantations of rubber trees are lifting
some out of povertybut may also spark an ecological disaster.

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CHINA Because rubber sap ows best

at night, tappers in Xishuangbanna use
headlamps to light the trees while they
work, as shown in this time exposure.
The latex drips into cups from incisions
in the bark. A typical tree produces
a few ounces worth of rubber a day.

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By Charles C. Mann
Photographs by Richard Barnes

CHINA Workers pour raw

latex into tanks for processing in Xishuangbannas
Nabanhe National Nature
Reserve, an innovative
park that tries to protect
the forest while allowing its
inhabitants to tap rubber.

ometimes you just want to spend a

few hours washing your truck. Its a
beautiful day, all of northern Thailand vibrant in the spring sun, so
you drive your new Isuzu into the
stream that runs through your village, Tung Nha Noi. Cows and people walk by
as you stand in the water, a 21-year-old guy with
a hot ride, sponging it so clean that the vehicle
gleams like hope in the sun.
Not so long ago the chances that someone
like Piyawot AnurakbranpotChin to his
friendswould have a fancy truck at such a
young age would have been close to zero. People
in remote villages like Tung Nha Noi didnt have

122national geographic jan uary

2016

the money. But recently families like Chins have

become much more prosperous. The reason is
visible in the hills behind him. Ten years ago
they were covered with dense tropical forest
a profuse tangle of native vegetation. Now
most of the slopes have been shaved as clean
as a drill instructors chin and replanted with a
single species: Hevea brasiliensis, the Par rubber tree. Night after night, Chins family and
tens of thousands of others in Southeast Asia
go into plantations and tap their rubber trees,
maple-syrup style. Thick white latex drips into
buckets. The goo is coagulated into solids that
are pressed into sheets and transported to factories, where they are processed into O-rings,

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belts, gaskets, insulation, and tireslots and

lots of tires. About three-quarters of the worlds
rubber harvest goes to make automobile, truck,
and airplane tiresalmost two billion a year.
Because rubber is so common, so unobtrusive, so dull, it may not seem worth a second
glance. This would be a mistake. Rubber has
played a largely hidden role in global political
and environmental history for more than 150
years. You say you want an industrial revolution? If so, you need three raw materials: iron,
to make steel for machinery; fossil fuels, to power that machinery; and rubber, to connect and
protect all the moving parts. Try running an automobile without a fan belt or a radiator hose;

very bad things will happen within a minute.

Want to send coolant around an engine using
a rigid metal tube instead of a exible rubber
hose? Good luck keeping it from vibrating to
pieces. Having enough steel and coal to make
and drive industrial machinery means nothing
if the engines fry because you cant cool them.
To the extent that most people think about
rubber at all, they likely picture a product made
from synthetic chemicals. In fact, more than 40
percent of the worlds rubber comes from trees,
almost all of them H. brasiliensis. Compared
with natural rubber, synthetic rubber is usually
cheaper to produce but is weaker, less exible,
and less able to withstand vibration. For things

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Rubbers Reach

Native to South America, rubber trees thrive in warm, rainy climates, particularly around the Equator.
New varieties bred to tolerate more extreme climates are allowing large-scale cultivation throughout Asia.

NORTH
AMERICA
U.S.

U.K.
London

ASIA

EUROPE

Dearborn
Akron

Weihai

CHINA
AREA
ENLARGED

TROPIC OF CANCER

AFRICA
Manaus
Santarm
AM
AZ Fordlandia
ON
B A SI N

TAIWAN

MYANMAR (BURMA)
THAILAND Bangkok
SINGAPORE

EQUATOR

VIETNAM
LAOS
CAMBODIA
MALAYSIA

INDONESIA

BRAZIL
TROPIC OF CAPRICORN

AUSTRALIA

SOUTH
AMERICA

Historical suitability*

THE AMERICAS

AFRICA

ASIA

Low

Africa has areas

% that are well
suited for growing
rubber, but it lacks key
infrastructure, such as
roads and electricity, in
many places.

92% Widespread
land conver-

Very
High

Unsuitable
*REGIONS WHERE RUBBER
WOULD NATURALLY OCCUR

Competition
% from Asia and
leaf blight epidemics
caused by dense planting ravaged natural
rubber production where
trees were native.

sion in areas prone to

frost and water shortages is the result of a
boom that may not be
sustainable.

2014 PRODUCTION PERCENTAGES

that absolutely cannot fail, from condoms to

surgeons gloves to airplane tires, natural rubber
has long been the top choice.
Iron can be found around the globe; so can
fossil fuels. But rubber today is grown almost
exclusively in Southeast Asia, because the region has a unique combination of suitable climate and infrastructure. Despite all the ups
and downs in the global economy, the demand
for tires continues to grow, which has created something akin to a gold rush in Southeast
Asia. For millions of people in this poor part of
the world, the rubber boom has helped bring
prosperity; Chin does not have the only new
pickup in Tung Nha Noi. And rubber has helped
end the regions isolation. Brand-new rubber
highwaysthe last nished in 2013now connect previously remote plantations in Southeast
Asia to tire factories in northern China.
124

But the consequences of the rubber trade are

not purely economic. Southeast Asias legions
of Chins have set of what Jeferson Fox of the
East-West Center in Hawaii calls one of the
biggest, fastest ecological transformations in
human history. In China, Vietnam, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, and Myanmar rubber farmers
have cut or burned down forests and planted
row after row after row of H. brasiliensis. In the
process, they are converting one of the worlds
most diverse ecosystems into a monoculture
as uniform as a Kansas wheat eld, potentially
threatening the basic ecological functions of
an area inhabited by tens of millions of people.
Each of the ve tires on Chins truckone on
each wheel plus a spareis like a small patch of
tropical forest, stripped and compressed into
a glossy black ring. So is every tire on my car
and yours.

LAUREN C. TIERNEY AND KELSEY NOWAKOWSKI, NGM STAFF. SOURCES: ANTJE AHRENDS AND OTHERS, GLOBAL ENVIRONMENTAL CHANGE, 2015; BIRDLIFE INTERNATIONAL

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C HIN A
Simao

YUNNAN
XISHUANGBANNA
NABANHE NATIONAL
NATURE RESERVE

Jinghong

L AO S

Phongsali
Kengtung

k
Me

g
on

M YA N M A R
(BURMA)
30

0 mi
0 km

30

Rubber plantations in 2010, derived from satellite imagery

More than four years old
Less than four years old

RISKY HABITAT
Rubber production in Southeast Asia has increased
dramatically along with global car production. New
plantations are popping up in regions ill suited for
rubbera trend that threatens livelihoods when crops
fail. It also harms biodiversity when vital ecosystems,
including natural forests, are cleared to make way for
the thirsty cash crop.

Monocultures are intensely productiveand

intensely vulnerable. Just ask Henry Ford. Giant
among industrialists, control freak extraordinaire, brilliant but possibly illiterate, Ford ran
his own iron and coal mines, built his own power
plants, logged his own timberlands. His River
Rouge factory complex in Dearborn, Michigan,
had a deepwater port, a steel foundry (the worlds
biggest at the time), and a hundred miles of interior railroad. Every type of material needed
to manufacture automobiles was made at River
Rouge save one: rubber. In 1927 Ford acquired
nearly 4,000 square miles in the Amazon Basin,
original home of H. brasiliensis.
Native peoples had used rubber for centuries
to waterproof their clothing and make rough
rubber boots. By the early 19th century North
Americans were buying rubber from their
southern neighbors to make boots and coats

of their own. But these early rubber creations

melted in the summer heat and lost their exibility in the cold. Only in the 1840s, after the
amateur U.S. inventor Charles Goodyear discovered how to stabilize rubber, did it become
suitable for widespread use. Goodyears discovery was called vulcanization. It opened the
oodgates for a stream of inventions.
Realizing that rubber had been transformed
from a curiosity into a valuable commodity, explorers went into the Amazon forest in search
of the latex-bearing trees. Boomtowns sprang
up, Manaus the most remarkable. In this Brazilian city encircled by vast forest, rubber barons
threw up huge mansions, paraded their bejeweled mistresses, and built an ornate opera house
of imported Italian marble.
European and North American governments didnt like depending on a commodity
controlled by a nation that was out of their political control. Oicials at Englands Kew Gardens went looking for someone they could pay
to bring rubber seeds out of the Amazon. Enter
Henry Alexander Wickham, a man loathed in
Brazil to this day.
Born in 1846, Wickham was an entrepreneur
whose ambitions were as great as his inability to achieve them. In the 1870s he and his
wife were struggling to establish a tobacco and
sugar plantation in the lower Amazon town
of Santarm. After being contacted by Kew
Gardens, Wickham gathered three-quarters
of a ton of rubber tree seeds, which he loaded
onto a London-bound ship. British authorities
were appalled when he showed up demanding payment for every one of his 70,000 seeds.
Yet sprouts from the seeds eventually were
transported to British, French, and Dutch colonies in Asia. Would-be rubber kings fanned
out into the equatorial forest, axes flashing,
torches aring. By 1910 more than 50 million
South American trees were growing in Asia.
The following year, as Asian rubber flooded
the market, prices in Brazil collapsed. To the
nations shock and fury, its hugely protable
rubber industry imploded within months.
In the following (Continued on page 132)

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LAOS Farmers clear forest to grow

rubber on land opened by a new
road connecting plantations with tire
factories in China. Ecologists fear
that the destruction, and the trees
need for lots of water, will degrade
ecosystems across Southeast Asia.

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THAILAND Wading in the village

stream, Piyawot Chin Anurakbranpot washes his new pickupa symbol of the prosperity and consumer
culture that the rubber industry has
brought to parts of Southeast Asia
once best known for opium poppies.

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Brazils
Boom and Bust
Sun gleams on the wreck of Fordlandias power plant (opposite, bottom) on the Tapajs River,
in the lower Amazon Basin. Built by Henry Ford at great cost in the 1930s, Fordlandia was
intended to be the worlds biggest rubber plantation. Instead it was a catastrophe. Alienating
his workers, the carmaker insisted that his Brazilian employees live on-site in U.S.-style
bungalows, eat U.S.-style oatmeal, wheat bread, and canned peaches in the company
cafeteria, attend U.S.-style square dancesand never drink alcohol. But his worst error was
failing to hire a rubber botanist. If hed hired one, he might have learned that the land (below,
in 1931) was unsuitable for rubberand that growing the trees close together made them
vulnerable to South American leaf blight (above, an infected leaf). Ford dumped the property
in 1945. Today the Rocha family (opposite, top), descendants of original workers, live nearby
in a house originally built for U.S. managers.

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THE HENRY FORD (ABOVE)

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decades Southeast Asia became the hotbed of
rubber production, as H. brasiliensis spread
across much of what is now Malaysia, Indonesia, and the southern parts of Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, and Myanmar. Plantation owners,
suddenly wealthy, snapped up real estate in Singapore. The ever itinerant Wickham, lionized as
the creator of the new industry, took to wearing
a nautilus-shell tie clasp, a waistcoat fastened
with silver chains, and a luxuriantly curled mustache that hung below his jaw like a owering
tropical vine.
Wickham died in 1928, a year after Henry
Ford obtained his land on the Tapajs River,
in the lower Amazon Basin. Detesting his dependence on Asian rubber, Ford had decided
to create his own supply. Thousands of workers
hacked out a new, midwestern-style city from
the rain forest, stocking it with rows of clapboard bungalows, Baptist churches, and a Main
Street with American bakeries, restaurants, tailors, cobblers, and movie theaters. Fordlandia,
as the project was quickly nicknamed, had the
only 18-hole golf course in the Amazon. The
scale was grandiose: The city was big enough
to house several hundred thousand people. All
told, Ford spent about $20 million to build it,
close to $300 million in todays money.
The project was that rarest of events, an unqualied disaster. Incredibly, the company laid
out a rubber plantation half the size of New Jersey without consulting a single person who knew
anything about growing H. brasiliensis. For starters, the property was unsuitable for large-scale
rubber cultivation. The soil was too sandy and
the rainfall too seasonal. If a botanist had been
on-site, Ford might have learned that there is a
good reason that rubber trees are never found
clustered together in the wild: They are too vulnerable to attack by South American leaf blight.
Microcyclus ulei, as biologists call it, looks at
rubber trees the way ant armies look at frogs:
as lunch. The fungus doesnt kill trees straight
out, historian Greg Grandin explains in his
book Fordlandia. Instead its spores tunnel into
leaves, consuming their nutrients until they fall
of. When the leaves regrow, the fungus attacks
132national geographic jan uary

2016

again; the trees, Grandin writes, grow successively weaker, either producing dwarf shoots or
dying back altogether.
The battle is silent, protracted, and for the
tree, almost invariably fatal. In the wild Microcyclus ulei spores cant spread easily from one
rubber tree to another because the trees are
widely dispersed in the forest. On a plantation,
trees are close to one another, like dishes at a
buffet, letting the fungus hop easily between
them, one plate to the next. In creating his rubber plantation, Ford had efectively spent huge
sums to create an enormous fungus incubator.
In 1935 the inevitable occurred. Fordlandias rubber trees were denuded in just a few
monthsan ecological cataclysm, an economic ruin. Ten years later Ford quietly unloaded
the land for pennies on the dollar. In the seven
decades since, every attempt to create a rubber plantation in Central or South America has
failed. In the end, the fungus always won.
As you drive into the outskirts of So Phisai,
Thailand, the air smells like a nail salon. The
smell is from formic acid, the chemical used
to coagulate latex from rubber trees. You see
new roofs with satellite dishes on almost every
home. The smell of formic acid is also the smell
of money.
Many of the people in So Phisai want, in efect,
to be Sommai Kaewmanee. The son of landless
migrants, he borrowed money in 1992 to plant
the towns rst rubber trees. At that time, he told
me, everyone in So Phisai grew cassava, barely
eking out an income. Young adults had to move
to Bangkok to nd decent jobs. Kaewmanee borrowed money to put about 1,500 trees on eight
acres and persuaded three other farmers to join
him, promising that people who planted rubber
would become millionaires. (Most of them got
pretty close, he told me.)
During my visit Kaewmanee showed me the
books from his growing business. If the gures
had been plotted on a graph, they would have
mirrored those for global automobile sales:
a wiggly but inexorable march upward. Rubber riches, slowly accumulating, bought him

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a new home and a spiffy 4x4 vehicle and the
portable electronic gadgets that his kids, home
from school, were staring into. Kaewmanee had
become the agricultural supervisor for his subdistrict, where 90 percent of the farmers grow
H. brasiliensis. He now has about 75,000 trees.
His nursery sells a million seedlings a year. Forestland is still available around So Phisai, he
said, ready to be turned into tires.
Kaewmanee didnt know it, but his home and
car were made possible by Chinese scientists.

and Vietnam like suburban sprawl, replacing

swaths of native forest along the way. Global
natural-rubber production has jumped from
4.4 million tons in 1983 to more than 13 million
tons today.
To grow that extra rubber, Southeast Asian
farmers have cleared about 18,000 square miles,
an area about the size of Massachusetts and
Vermont put together. And that gure doesnt
include the forest logged for new processing
facilities, the new homes built in the forest for

A single errant spore of South American leaf

blight reaching Southeast Asia could bring the
automobile age to a screeching halt.
When rubber first came to Southeast Asia, it
could grow only in the warm and wet equatorial forests of what is now Indonesia, Malaysia,
and the southern tips of Thailand, Cambodia,
Vietnam, and Myanmarplaces that mirrored
rubbers Amazonian home.
During the Korean War the United States
imposed rubber sanctions on China. Furious,
China developed varieties of H. brasiliensis that
could grow in the relatively cool district of Xishuangbanna in Yunnan Province, on the border with Laos and Myanmar. Xishuangbanna
represents just 0.2 percent of Chinas land area,
but it houses many of Chinas species:16 percent of its plants, 22 percent of its animals, and
36 percent of its birds. All are now threatened
by rubber. Armed with the new, cold-tolerant
trees, the Chinese military established state-run
plantations there. Small farmers later lled in
most of the land that was left. Today you can
stand on a hilltop in Xishuangbanna and see
nothing but rubber trees in every direction.
It typically takes a months worth of latex
from four trees to make just one tire. Xishuangbanna isnt nearly big enough to satisfy Asias
demand. Promoted with state programs, sought
after by Chinese corporations, H. brasiliensis
has spread through Laos, Myanmar, Thailand,

new rubber workers, or the roads cut to reach

the new plantations.
All that productioncombined with a decline
in demandhas made rubber prices fall in the
past few years, but nobody expects the growth
to stop. The boom means that a random visitor like me can drive around northern Laos at
night and see res in the hillsset by families
burning patches of forest to make room for new
plantings. It means teenage Thai boys drive by
on motorcycles groaning beneath a half dozen
garbage bags full of homemade balls of coagulated latex. It means entire farming villages that
get up at two in the morning to tap rubber trees,
because latex ows best before dawn.
The ecological threat posed by the rubber
boom goes beyond the loss of biodiversity. The
rubber trees on these new plantations are descendants of the seeds that Henry Wickham
spirited out of Brazil. As Henry Ford learned
the hard way, they are terribly susceptible to
blight. By the 1980s scientists were cautioning
that a single errant spore of South American
leaf blight reaching Southeast Asia could bring
the automobile age to a screeching halt. The
potential of an economic disaster increases
with every transcontinental flight landing in
Southeast Asia, two researchers at Florida

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U.S. Tubes of extruded latex wait

to be cut into rubber bands at the
Keener Rubber Company near Akron,
Ohio. The factory is a remnant of the
regions days as the rubber capital
of the worldit once housed the
four biggest tire rms on the planet.

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A&M University, warned in 2012. A UN Food
and Agriculture Organization report the previous year recommended that all air passengers
bound for Southeast Asia who have been in
South Americas blight zone within the previous three weeks should be inspected. No such
program has been enacted. Although scientists
in Brazil have found and begun testing resistant
varieties of rubber trees, no Asian breeding program for blight resistance has been established.
In four visits to Southeast Asia I didnt encounter a single rubber farmer who was considering
resistant varieties.
Even ecologists have devoted little attention
to the threat. Instead they focus on more immediate issues, says Xu Jianchu, of Chinas
Kunming Institute of Botany, about 200 miles
northeast of Xishuangbanna. Rubber tappers,
working at night, fear encountering snakes in
the dark, so they drench the hills with herbicides to wipe out snake-hiding ground cover.
Species that depend on the destroyed plants
quickly succumb tooa further loss of biodiversity. Rain erodes the exposed earth, threatening the soil.
Perhaps most serious, rubber trees consume
a lot of water in the process of making latex.
Producing tires is like taking groundwater from
the hills and putting it on trucks for export. As
a consequence, Xu says, highland wells and rivers are drying up. The industry response has
been that people can get water in plastic bottles, he says, with a grimace. Soon rubber will
cover most of Southeast Asia. The problems will
spread from China to much of Southeast Asia.
Unless governments step in, it will not stop.
On a foggy and distinctly cool day I drove to the
Nabanhe National Nature Reserve in Xishuangbanna. With me were the reserves research director, Liu Feng, and Gerhard Langenberger, an
agroecologist at Germanys University of Hohenheim. The landscape switched back and forth
between plantation and wildland in a way that
reminded me, to my surprise, of the patchwork
of fields and forest around my New England
home. We were going to the reserve because Liu
136national geographic jan uary

2016

U.S. Arriving jets leave

traces of rubber at
Nashville International
Airport. Because they
must not fail, airplane
tires are usually made
with natural rubber,
which is stronger, more
exible, and better able
to withstand vibration
than synthetic rubber.

and Langenberger think it hints at how rubber

could coexist with a natural ecosystem.
Unlike most nature reserves, Nabanhe is
full of people. Its one hundred square miles include 33 small villages, with a total population
of about 6,000. The land is divided into three
zones. In the core, no human activity is allowed,
as in a classic wilderness park. Surrounding that
is a bufer zone, where people can live but are
allowed only limited use of resources. And surrounding that is an experimental zone, where
people can farmthat is, plant and tap rubber.
The balance is diicult to maintain, Liu said.
That afternoon we saw villagers ripping out illegal rubber plants. The malefactors had been

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turned in by their neighbors. Forestry police

watched as the plants were dragged away. A
few hours later we met some of the police for
drinks and food in a kind of mountain saloon.
One told me the villagers punishment hadnt
been severehe just wanted them to be mindful
of the rules.
Langenberger believes that scientists should
provide the facts and then let locals decide how
to manage the landscape. I dont blame the
farmers, he said. Theyve been poor here for so
long. Now they have a crop that lets them participate in the world market. Scientists cantand
shouldnttell them to stop growing rubber,
he said. The logic of conservation is to forbid

all human activity in the name of preserving

vital rain forest. The logic of industry is to cover
every scrap of land with rubber trees. Langenberger hopes it might be possible to create a
state of productive tension. The Nabanhe Reserve, he hopes, could help show the way, a small
efort to make things work in this tiny corner of
the interconnected world.j
Charles C. Mann is a frequent
contributor to the magazine. Hes
the author of 1491, winner of the
National Academies of Sciences
Keck award for best book of the
year, and the best-selling 1493.
MICHAEL LIONSTAR,
VINTAGE

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PROOF

A PHOTOGRAPHERS JOURNAL

Kingdom of Girls
By JEREMY BERLIN
Photographs by KAROLIN KLPPEL

I

n the lush jungles of northeastern India,

hard against the Bangladesh border, is a tiny
village with an unconventional social order.
Mawlynnong is where about 500 members of
the indigenous Khasi tribe still follow ancient
matrilineal traditions. Where succession, money,
property, and power pass from mother to daughter.
Where girlsliterallyrule their roosts.
Karolin Klppel wanted to see this inverted world
for herself. So for nine months spanning two years,
the Berlin-based photographer lived with diferent
Khasi families in the unbelievably clean, calm, and
peaceful village. What she found was a culture in
which youngest daughters (called khadduh) inherit
wealth and property, husbands move into their wives
homes, and children take their mothers surname.
Girls go to school in the village until theyre teens,
though some move to the state capital at 11 or 12 for
further education. After that they attend college or
return to Mawlynnong, where they care for their parents. They may marry whomever they choose; there is
no stigma attached to divorce or opting to stay single.
But not having daughters can cause despair. Only
girls can ensure continuity, so families without them
are called ap-duh, or extinct, says North-Eastern
Hill University anthropologist Valentina Pakyntein.
Such customs, she adds, have existed for time
immemorial. They may go back to when Khasis had
multiple partners, which made it hard to determine
paternity. Or to when male ancestors, of ghting
wars, couldnt care for their clans or families.
Today men lead Mawlynnongs village council, but
they rarely own property. Klppel says some, upset by
their second-class status, are calling for gender equality. But mostly she was struck by the respect that
Khasi men have for women, which is at the heart of
this photo series. I want everyone to know about cultures that are diferent from the patriarchal world we
live inand I want people to question that system.j
138

To make Khasi tradition

visible, Klppel created
portraits as a reference
or allusion to the girls
surroundings and
culture. That means
a ish-drying device
could be a necklace for
Grace Tangsong, seven.

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PROOF

A PHOTOGRAPHERS JOURNAL | proof.nationalgeographic.com

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Anisha Nongrum, seven, wears a headdress of areca seeds, used

in a chew called kwai (left). Ibapyntngen Khongjee, eight, hides in
a mosquito net. Klppel says these powerful, self-assured girls
must often act responsibly. But in their free time, theyre children
who jump in rivers, catch ish, run, scream, and get dirty.

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kingdom of girls 141

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PROOF

A PHOTOGRAPHERS JOURNAL

The eldest of three siblings, Phida Nongrum, nine, plays with

a balloon in her bedroom (above). One day her sister Anisha
will be head of their household. Beslinda Khongdup, 12,
reaches down to grasp cow legs, which Khasis sometimes
use in soup. Most Indians are Hindu, but the villagers in
Mawlynnong are Christians and therefore may eat beef.

AFGHAN.

C HINA

PAKISTAN

BHUTAN
NE
PAL

New Delhi

Mawlynnong
Dhaka
I NDI A

MYANMAR
BANGLADESH

(BURMA)

Arabian
Sea
Bay of
Bengal

400

0 mi
0 km

400

NGM MAPS

SRI LANKA

142national geographic Jan uary

2016

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In the Loupe

Special National Parks Edition

Photography
T
 hat Layers Time
For years photographer Stephen Wilkes
dreamed of compressing the best parts of
a day and night into a single photograph.
Now that digital imaging technology has
caught up to his imagination, Wilkes is able
to shoot thousands of images and meld
them into time-spanning panoramas.
To make images like those on pages 32-45,
Wilkes selects a vista, sets up his camera
and computer gear, and establishes a ixed
camera angle. After researching sun directions,
moon phases, weather, and more, he chooses
an hour to start; in Yosemite it was 3 a.m.,
when the full moon would light El Capitans
face. He then continuously shoots images
through day and night, in whatever conditions
nature gives him. I have zero control, he
says, until the end of the process, when I
have complete control.
Wilkes takes weeks to edit down the thousands of photos from a shoot to what he
considers the 50 best moments. He decides
on the images time vectorwhere in the image the day-night cycle will begin, and which
way time will proceed: top to bottom, left to
right. Then he digitally blends the photos to
layer parts of some on parts of others, making
a seamless composite image.
The Yosemite panorama, when read diagonally from the upper left-hand corner, proceeds
from 3 a.m. one day to near dawn the next
day. Along with spectacular scenery, most
of Wilkess images feature what he calls the
magical moments: People doing all the joyful
things that people do to celebrate being in an
extraordinary place. Patricia Edmonds

Shots of the famous Half Dome from

morning through midday captured
the sunlight moving across it.

When winds briely died down over

Bridalveil Fall, a rainbow formed long
enough to appear in just three frames.

Extremely sharp focus brings out

details such as lights on El Capitans
face from climbers suspended tents.

To craft the human narrative, Wilkes

shows visitors at all times of day.
Here, a man tosses a child in the air.

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VELATE 11, 20162 MILANO; AUT. TRIB. MI 258 26/5/84 POSTE ITALIANE SPA; SPED. ABB. POST. DL 353/2003 (CONV L.27/02/2004 N.46) ART 1 C. 1 DCB MILANO STAMPA QUAD/GRAPHICS, MARTINSBURG, WV
25401. MEMBERS: IF THE POSTAL SERVICE ALERTS US THAT YOUR MAGAZINE IS UNDELIVERABLE, WE HAVE NO FURTHER OBLIGATION UNLESS WE RECEIVE A CORRECTED ADDRESS WITHIN TWO YEARS.

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