D e c e m b e r 2 0 1 4 /Ja n u a r y 2 0 1 5

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GOING LOCAL
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IN PHILLY
MY CITY
COOL GRIT:
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 D E C E M B E R 2014 / J A N U A R Y 2015 V O L U M E 3 1, N U M B E R 8

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELER

CONTENTS
36 Best of the World 2015 74 A Winters Tale
Whether its Indias literary hub or Switzerlands mountain A timeless trek through Chinas Altay Mountains takes
majesty, these 20 go-now destinations will send you packing subzero sleigh rides to the extreme
BY MARK JENKINS

52 The Road to Wellville 82 The Magic of the Moment

Using his grandmas journal as his guide, the author re-creates
the cross-country drive his family made 77 years before From volcano eruptions to mist-covered towns, Travelers 26th
annual photo contest winners have us under their spell
BY ERIC FELTEN | PHOTOGRAPHS BY AARON HUEY

62 Philly Originals D E PA R TM E N T S
A creative colony of brewers, bakers, and bicycle builders 4 EDITOR'S NOTE
revolutionizes Pennsylvanias biggest city 6 INSIDE NAT GEO TRAVEL
BY L AUREN M C CUTCHEON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY CATHERINE KARNOW 98 TRAVEL QUIZ

SMART
TRAVELER
Insect hotels of Seoul,
open-faced Scandinavian
sandwiches, and fight nights in
Mexico Cityheres our guide
to whats happening around
the world right now
10
COURTESY OF ERIC FELTEN

ON THE COVER: CORSICAS CLIFFS ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA, BY CLAUDIO CASSARO/SIME
ABOVE: THE FELTENS, FROM THE ROAD TO WELLVILLE, IN PHOENIX, ARIZONA (1936)
 EDITORS NOTE

Ripe for discovery,

Lake Ohrid straddles
Albania and Macedonia.

The Far Edge of Travel

we drive into the Ceraunian Mountains of Albania on a we dine alfresco on local figs, plums, eggs, petulla (fried dough),
switchback-happy coastal road, past walls of black pines and tart goat cheese, and sausage, washed down with home-brewed
by rickety tables laden with local honey and tea. Slopes spilling rakija and wine out of soda bottles.
down to beaches yield, in season, lemons, oranges, olives. The Travelers have largely overlooked the Balkan region, which
Ionian Sea shimmers blue to our right, with Corfu visible in the has long been shrouded by a troubled past. But its enigmatic
haze. These are my mountains, the Thunder Mountains, my nature may prove to be its most potent drawing card. Weve seen
guide, Adrian, says. I grew up here. They are in my blood. this happen elsewhere: Papua New Guinea, Myanmar, Bhutan.
Adrian points out a pass below through which Julius Caesar In these pages, writer Mark Jenkins tells a story of remoteness
in 48 b.c. led his legions against Pompey. Then (in Chinas Altay Mountains) and cultural adven-
he talks of the thousands of Albanians who fled Travelers have ture (on a horse-drawn chana expedition). It may
a communist rule that ended in 1992and says largely overlooked seem a vicarious glimpse of a far-off land. Yet, as
many are coming home. My grandmother calls the Balkan region, with Albania, it may soon be within reach.
this the land of stone and clouds. The stones are long shrouded by Im looking forward to exploring other far-off
those who came back, who are rooted to the earth. lands myself as I leave the magazine I have edited
The clouds wander, seeking a place to settle. We
a troubled past. for 17 years. My plans include writing more and
rumble in a 4x4 on gravel roads through olive But its enigmatic spearheading exciting efforts to promote travel
groves to Pilur, a village where, under a chestnut nature may as a learning toolfor I believe the passport is
tree, elders burst into impromptu polyphony, a prove to be its the new diploma. Heres to future journeys.
UNESCO-recognized blend of musical voices most potent
that dates back more than a thousand years. Then drawing card. K e i t h B e l l ows
ANITA BACK/LAIF/REDUX

OUR At National Geographic Traveler, we aim to inspire curious travelers to see and preserve our world; help readers journey wisely and well; share travel experiences
MISSION and cultural insights that can change us; and bring to our pages the emotional and photographic power of travel.

4
National
Geographic
Traveler
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SCRAPBOOK F L I G H T S O F FA N C Y
Designed by Finnish glass artist
Our Favorite Things Oiva Toikka and handcrafted in
Nuutajrvi, Finland, this guillemot caught
What do staffers bring back from their travels? Heres a peek my eye in a Helsinki airport gift shop.
into our baggage. Plus, weve created a special gift guide Carol Enquist, senior photo editor
available online and on our iPad editionto help you search
for your own authentic treasures from abroad.

S Q UA R E R O OT
TURNING Wowed by the tile work on fountains
HEADS throughout Barcelona, I purchased these
After finding this hand-painted tiles while wandering the
bronze Buddha head citys Gothic Quarter.
at a tiny shop in Jerry Sealy, creative director
Yogyakarta, Indonesia,
I loaded it into
my backpack and
carried it around for
another month before
arriving home.
Susan OKeefe,
associate editor

O L D W I V E S TA L E
In Latvian folklore, the rings
pendants each symbolize an
admirera woman married the man
whose pendant fell off first. I couldnt

MARK THIESSEN/NGS (SOUVENIRS), JOHN STANMEYER/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC CREATIVE (MAN)

resist the rings romantic story.
Amy Alipio, associate editor

G E TAWAY S WA L K A B O U T
TRAVEL WITH US HEART AND SOLES
Like what you see in our Best of the Journalist and National Geographic Fellow
World feature (page 36)? Explore Paul Salopek has some 60,000-year-old shoes
unforgettable destinationssuch to fill. Now a year into his seven-year journey,
as Haida Gwaii, British Columbia; Salopek plans to cover 21,000 miles and four
Zermatt, Switzerland; and Koyasan, continents by 2020 on the same path trod by
Japanbeyond the pages through our Homo sapiens ancestors. Traveling on foot,
curated trips led by area experts from hell trace human migration from Ethiopias
National Geographic Expeditions. Paul Salopek Great Rift Valley to Tierra del Fuego, Chile.
LOCATE ITINERARIES, TRIP HIGHLIGHTS, AND in Ethiopia TRACK PAUL SALOPEKS TREK AT OUTOFEDENWALK
MORE AT NATIONALGEOGRAPHICEXPEDITIONS.COM. .NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM.

NEW Check out National Geographics Masters of Photography course, available on DVD and online. NATGEOCOURSES.COM/MASTERS

6
National
Geographic
Traveler
STAR TRAILS OVER LAKE MCDONALD IN GLACIER NATIONAL PARK
WINTERMT.COM
Its Going to be a Great Day.
Waking Up in Americas Best Ski Town: Whitesh, MT.

In some places, winter is endured. Others meet it with a proud But when you wake up and open the door, youll still be surprised.
toughness. But in a few very special parts of the world, winter is Against all odds, youll nd that Central Avenue really is that charming.
anticipatedembraced and squeezed for all the enjoyment it will Youll wonder if its just in your head, or if the snow is sparkling more
bring. Here, skiers arent the only ones with a twinkle in their eye on brightly here.
the eve of a big snow.
And that will get you thinking about the other things youve heard. Will
You might arrive after nightfall, on a ight into Glacier Park International the lift lines really be as short as people say? Will Glacier be as jaw-
Airport. Youll see the groomers at work as you head into town, their dropping as the snowshoe tour guide made it sound? Can it be possible
headlights teasing the shape of Whitesh Mountain Resorts peak that one little town could have so many restaurants worth trying?
above town. Youll check in, settle down, and fall asleep cuddling a
trail map, with the snow report open on your iPad. What are you thinking about? your travel companions will ask. Youll
realize you were daydreaming, and respond with the only words you
Youve done your research, of course. Youve read stories and reviews can nd.
about this authentic ski town still reachable by train. Youve seen
photos of Glacier National Park, somehow even more impressive Its going to be a great day.
dressed in white. Youve watched videos about the 3,000-plus acres
of Rocky Mountain skiing. For more on winter in Whitesh, Montana, visit ExploreWhitesh.com.

to Fernie, BC
to Calgary, AB

Eureka
GLACIER
Polebridge NATIONAL
PARK

Libby West Glacier

Whitefish
to Sandpoint, ID

East
Glacier
Kalispell Essex Park
Fla
the
ad
Riv
er
Swan Lake
to Coeur dAlene, ID

Ronan

St. Ignatius
Superior
Arlee Seeley
Lake

Missoula

to Kooskia, ID

SEA
PDX
MSP

SLC ORD
DEN
OAK
LAS
LAX
ATL

Top left: Downtown Whitesh, MT

Top right: Cross-country skiing in Glacier National Park
Bottom: Catching air at Whitesh Mountain Resort
Special Advertising Section
 NAVIGATING THE GLOBE

SMART
TRAVELER

A proper lunch in
Copenhagen: open-faced
sandwiches and lager 10
PAGE 24 February
YADID LEVY

2013
 S M A R T T R AV E L E R

A casual restaurant
in the Colonia Roma
neighborhood

MY CIT Y

Mexico City Mix

Intimacy and grit in the Mexican capital BY FRANCISCO GOLDMAN

ID NEVER MISSED Mexico City so much as during this past are repeatedly changed. My barber is Francisco, and when
interminable winter in New York. During the weeks before my girlfriend and I were temporarily broken up, he gave me
our departure date, I badly needed a haircut, but I didnt get advice that was the opposite of my New York shrinks, for
one because on my first day in the D.F.the Distrito Federal, whom mental health meant accepting that some things have
as locals call Mexico CityI wanted to go to my favorite no solution. Francisco said that everything has a solution, and
barbershop, and maybe you should go too, for an authentic he turned out to be right.
Mexican experience. Paris Marinne, in posh Polanco, is a After that most recent haircut, as I was in the neighbor-
humble place with a barber pole outside. Inside are old- hood, I went to the Jos Cuervo Saln for the Saturday night
fashioned barber chairs, usually filled with executive types. fights. Half a century ago in the U.S., nationally televised
As soon as you come in, youre offered a drinktequila Friday night fights were an institution, but the rougher main-
or whiskeywhich theyll keep refilling as long as youre stream culture that implies is long gone. These fights are
there. If you stay for a shave, that can be a couple of hours. nationally televised too. The arenas are smallthe grungy old
ADAM WISEMAN

Men lie back, faces covered with steaming towels, which Arena Mxico in Colonia Doctores is my favoriteand you

GO TO INTELLIGENTTRAVEL.NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM FOR I HEART MY CITY POSTS.

12
National
Geographic
Traveler
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 S M A R T T R AV E L E R

can hear every punch land, and study the fighters eyes. You day of the week but especially on Sundays, in Parque Mxico,
feel as if you are in a George Bellows painting. Mexican box- in the Condesa neighborhood; or a teeming food market such
ers, whatever their skill level, have long had an international as Mercado San Juan, with its geometric piles of brilliantly
reputation as fighters who wont go down, who give it their colored fruits, some of which youll never have heard of, and
absolute all. The Saturday night fights represent one of the free samples, which hawkers constantly hand out.
things I love most about Mexico City: the way it preserves I could write a 500-page book of suggested walks through
for all the sophistication, wealth, and glamour of its most the D.F. (In Roberto Bolaos Savage Detectives, a novel that
fashionable sectorsthe hard-nosed grittiness of city life in a captures the spirit of life in this city as no other does, the
way that is never easy to overlook. young characters walk endlessly.) But one of my favorite
The other day I ran into a friend at Panadera Rosetta, a walks meanders from Roma Norte to Roma Sur. It doesnt
single-counter place, in the Colonia Roma Norte neighbor- matter what tree-shaded streets I go downI might stop for
hood, selling sandwiches and chocolate croissants that Im lunch at Parnita, that most excellent taco restaurantbut I
dangerously addicted to. Its owner/chef, Elena Reygadas, was end up at Lulu, an art space founded by the Mexican artist
recently awarded the Veuve Clicquot Latin Americas Best Martin Soto Climent and the American curator Chris Sharp
Female Chef 2014, for her more upscale restaurant, Rosetta, (make an appointment by e-mail).
down the block. At the Panadera, I was having a melted The D.F. may have several comprehensive contemporary
stracchino and arugula sandwich for lunch, and my friend was art museums, including the Fundacin Jumex, founded by the

A concentration of art: a mural (left) decorating Okupa bar in Colonia Roma; visitors at Museo Jumex (center) enjoying the
terrace view of the silvery-tiled Museo Soumaya; a colorful jumble of chili peppers at organic market Mercado el 100 (right)

taking photos for his blog. Later, he and I were walking down scion of Mexicos mega juice company. But Lulu, named after
Calle Orizaba, past the pool-hall bar that serves good cheap a little juice stand on the corner, is just one white room on the
pizza and top-notch mescals, when he exclaimed, Arent we ground floor of a small house.

CHICO SANCHEZ/STOCKIMO/ALAMY (MURAL, PEPPERS), ADAM WISEMAN (MUSEUM)

lucky to live in Mexico City! Over the past year Lulu has shown internationally
You can eat sandwiches in New York City, too, but I renowned artists, from the Mexican, Brooklyn-based painter
emphatically agreed. I never feel especially grateful to live in Aliza Nisenbaum to New Zealander Kate Newby. As part of
New York, not in the way I do to live in the D.F. her exhibit, Newby poured a puddle of pink-colored cement
I looked around. An endless stream of young people and outside on the gallerys sidewalk and embedded into it small
sophisticated arty older peoplethis area has many galler- crustacean fossils that she had sculpted by hand. The
iespassed us by. Magnificent trees bower Roma Nortes neighbors were so fond of the work they swept it every morn-
streets, which are lined with faded grand 19th-century man- ing. Inside the gallery, a row of exquisite tiny handmade bells
sions from when this was the aristocratic neighborhood. dangled by red threads from a thin cord. The cord led visitors
Roma can feel like a neighborhood out of Proust, except for to a sort of hanging xylophone of ceramic blades, in different
the food stands on the corners, such as the one serving a colors, which made stirring sounds when nudged against
traditional Mexican goat stew, or birria, with tacos, good for one another. Here in one of the largest, most chaotic cities on
hangovers. No birria in Proust. Earth, enchantment and delight on the most intimate scale.
My late wife, Aura, loved flying into the city at night, see-
ing the vast, dense spread of lights below. Its like looking F R A N C I S CO G O L D M A N is the author of the award-winning
down into the universe from above, shed say. The keys to Say Her Name and The Interior Circuit: A Mexico City Chronicle.
happiness in this city, I think, are the simple things: the cozy He lives in Mexico City and teaches a semester every year at
cantina that serves pork ribs in green sauce; a walk, on any Trinity College in Hartford, Connecticut.

14
National
Geographic
Traveler
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 S M A R T T R AV E L E R

Fox Oakland Theater Temescal Alley Barbershop

JUST BACK

AN A FOR OAKLAND
OAKLAND IS ENJOYING a moment. New residents, attracted to this California city by low rents and ethnic diversity, have
bolstered a stream of shops and eateries, including Wood Tavern, known for its pork belly and desserts, and Italian
hot spot Pizzaiolo, a best bet for breakfast (spicy cheese croissants, scones). Wineries such as Cerruti Cellars have
taken over abandoned spaces, giving the lie, Oaklander Nina Newhouse says, to the notion that the only way to make
fantastic wine is to live in a vineyard. And an eclectic mix of jewel-box-size boutiques, along with the popular old-style
Temescal Alley Barbershop, has everyone flocking to Temescal Alley, where streetcars once ran. Annie Fitzsimmons
FOR MORE FROM ANNIE FITZSIMMONS, OUR URBAN INSIDER, VISIT OUR INTELLIGENT TRAVEL BLOG.

Pizza at Pizzaiolo

NORIE QUINTOS (THEATER, SINGERS), CATHERINE KARNOW (BARBERSHOP, PIZZA)

Barbershop
singers at
the Camron-
Stanford
House

16
National
Geographic
Traveler
 FIND THE FOOD THAT WAKES UP YOUR SOUL.

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 S M A R T T R AV E L E R

STRANGE PLANET

Weird but True Around the World

1. Sticky Situation: Thousands of pieces of chewed gum line 70-foot-long Bubblegum Alley in San Luis Obispo, California. 2. Bald Dogs:
A worker rubs sunscreen daily on some 12 Mexican hairless dogs roaming the grounds of the Dolores Olmedo Museum in Mexico City.
3. View the Loo: Water cascades from 10,000 toilet
let urinals and seats, creating an art installation in Foshan, Guangdong Province, China.
Chin

STREET SCENE

BEAR ESSENTIALS
ON PORTOBELLO
In December, Londons most
lovable bear, Paddington, hits
big screens across the globe. To
celebrate in Englands capital,
retrace the teddys wellie-wearing
footsteps to Portobello Market.
Paddingtonthe protagonist of
the childrens storybook series
that started in 1958came here to
visit his friends shop, where they
enjoyed elevenses (tea, served
with cake), and to pick up fruits
and vegetables. For more timeless
treasures, visit weekends, when
antiques vendors set up stalls.
Skip the kitschy Will and Kate
tea towels and head to the pastel-
painted terraces around the
Vernon arcade, where sharp eyes
can find pocket watches, porce- TRENDING

ANDREW HETHERINGTON (CRAB), TRISTAN DESCHAMPS/ALAMY (SUITCASES), JOE BELANGER/ISTOCKPHOTO (BUBBLEGUM)

lain, and rare jewelry. Browse
through time via Barbarella
dresses, aging coin collections,
Eating the Enemy
and wiry tongue scrapers from By COSTAS CHRIST
when flushed pink palates were
the height of sophistication. ASIAN CARP CLOGGING Mississippi waterways. Lionfish destroying Caribbean
Abigail King reefs. Burmese pythons devouring the Everglades wildlife. Wild boars gorging on
endangered sea turtle eggs. These and other invasive species are wreaking havoc
on fragile natural ecosystems. In response, a culinary movement spearheaded by
conservation groups and sustainably minded chefs is gathering steam, with a clear
message: Eat the invaders.
Invasive species have debuted at novelty dinners. Last spring the Georgia
chapter of the Society of Conservation Biology announced an Invasive Species
Hog Roast. The Fertile Earth Foundation held a Miami gala that included smoked
python and adobo-rubbed snakehead fish. But theyre also showing up on more
restaurant menus. I recently dined on grilled lionfish at Francis Coppolas Turtle
Inn resort in Belize. And at Californias Post Ranch Inn, chef John Cox served diced
moon jellyfish with lemon and ginger. Miyas Sushi in New Haven, Connecticut,
has developed an expanding menu of invasives, including the Asian shore crab
(above), one of the most destructive species on the New England coast.
Can we beat back these biological menaces that threaten the survival of native
species? Some scientists think the problem is too big to eat our way out of. Perhaps,
Antiques at but given the human appetite for consuming creatures to near extinction (think
a London bluefin tuna), I think we can take a big bite out of the problem.
market
FOLLOW COSTAS ON TWITTER @COSTASCHRIST.

18
National strange planet reported by
Geographic Christine Blau
Traveler
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 S M A R T T R AV E L E R

O N TA P

SHEDDING LIGHT
ON IRISH STOUT
Theres a lot more to the Irish stout
than whats offered in a pint of
Guinness, says The World Atlas of
Beer co-author Stephen Beaumont.
And where you are in Ireland deter-
mines what beer you drink.

DUBLIN The category-definer dates

to 1759, when Arthur Guinness
brewed a version of the eras popu-
lar British porters, called stout to
signal strength. The creamy easy-
drinker is sold on nearly every conti-
nent (sorry, Antarctica), but some of
the best pints of Guinness are poured
at Dublins Victorian-era Long Hall.

KILKENNY Dismayed by the percep-

tion that Irish stouts were being
dulled down, brothers Seamus and
Eamonn OHara founded Carlow
Brewing Company and, in 1999,
released their robust flagship,
OHaras Irish Stout: Irish grains
blended with earthy Fuggle hops BOOKSHELF
created a hearty brew. Head to the
affiliated OHaras Brewery Corner
to try their namesake craft beers.
New Reads, Great Places
CORK CITY Dont request a Guinness
Telling tales in Cuba, Sri Lanka, and more By DON GEORGE
in Cork. The rebel city supports
Murphys, which was founded in 1856 THE RENOWNED Cuban ballet new arrival who turns out
by former distiller James J. Murphy. dancer Carlos Acosta leaps into to be controversial Glasgow
The pride of Cork tastes a bit sweet his debut novel, Pigs Foot, with Style architect Charles Rennie
instead of bitter, recalling chocolate a fantastical tale spanning 150 Mackintosh, in Esther Freuds
milk on a bender. Decide for yourself years of Cuban history. Slavery, richly detailed novel Mr. Mac
at the 125-year-old Sin , which also revolution, racism, communism, and Me. Even more disruptive to
serves up Irish music. betrayal, violenceits all part village life is the start of WWI,
JOSHUA M. BERNSTEIN of the journey Oscar Kortico, the bringing with it coastal vigils and
novels hyperbole-prone hero, the drone of Zeppelins.
takes to find his ancestral village. In The Kindness Diaries,
In post-tsunami, post-civil war A debut novel burned-out broker Leon SCOTT SUCHMAN (BEER), HUGH SITTON/CORBIS (DANCER)

Sri Lanka, British biology teacher from Carlos Logothetis rides a vintage motor-
Cherry Briggs vividly retraces the Acosta whirls cycle through Europe, India,
footsteps of a quirky 19th-century through and Southeast Asia, relying on
explorer. Her new memoir, The Cuban history, the kindness of strangersand
from Havana
Teardrop Island, recounts travel- then generously rewarding
(top) to rural
ing via bus and tuk-tuk, from tea backwaters. them. From a struggling farm in
estates to temples, and through Montenegro to a barely roofed
war zones and cricket matches. home in rural Cambodia, he finds
A fishing village in Suffolk, fuel for his soul.
England, sets the scene for an FOR MORE BOOK REVIEWS BY DON
Guinness time unlikely friendship between a GEORGE, GO TO INTELLIGENTTRAVEL
pub owners son and a mysterious .NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM.

20
National
Geographic
Traveler
YOU WILL TRAVEL
IN A L AND OF MARVELS.
JULES VERNE

INTRODUCING

BRILLIANTLY CRISP DISPL AY REMARKABLY THIN DESIGN

EFFORTLESS PAGE TURNING LIGHT THAT ADJUSTS WITH YOU
 S M A R T T R AV E L E R

TRADITIONS

New Years
Around
the World

BELOW THE BELT

Brazilians choose
their own fortunes
for the coming year
by underwear color.
Yellow symbolizes
prosperity, red
passion and love, blue
good health and
tranquillity, and
white peace.

POSTCARD

Greetings From Penang FRUIT LOOP

Revelers in Spain
each eat 12 grapes to
THERES NO FINER END to a day in Penang, enterprising Chinese merchants deftly minted celebrate Nochevieja
Malaysia, than gathering poolside at the Eastern money and a legacytheir ancestral tablets (old night): one
for each month of
and Oriental Hotel to watch the tropic sun drop commingle with George Towns Hindu, the year.
into the Strait of Malacca. Drink to the dusk Christian, and Muslim holy sites. That same
with a cold Tiger beer, a reward for exploring multicultural tradition can be tasted, too, in local
the tightly packed and steamy streets of the citys dishes like koay teow thng, flat rice noodles and
preserved inner corea 640-acre UNESCO meat saturated in a clear soup, served at long,
World Heritage site known by its English colonial rough tables on the harbor docks, where stilted
name, George Town. A white diamond glistening houses cluster on six adjoining jetties founded RING TRUE

PAUL WANG (PAINTING), CAROLINE BENNETT (LEAVES), KATHRYN NAUMIEC (ILLUSTRATIONS)

with the sweat of the exploited laborers who built by ancient clans. Their descendants fish the Buddhist temples in
it, the British imperial port prospered by trading sea until twilight, when their boats sail past a Japan ring their bells
Southeast Asias treasures of cinnamon, nutmeg, statue of Queen Victoria. Standing on a plinth, 108 times before
peppers, and silks. The same items are still for her majesty may look toward England, but her midnight, a sacred
purification ritual.
sale beneath the colonnaded arcades of shop- heart lies with Penang and the looming, purple
houses built by the Peranakan Chinese. Those night. Andrew Nelson

TEA TIME SEEING DOUBLE

The Samoa Islands
THE BEST PART OF WAKING UP straddle two time
The next superfood is brewing deep in the Ecuadorian Amazon. zones, a 25-hour
Guayusa tea packs twice the antioxidants of green tea and as much difference. Last year
around 200 people
caffeine as a cup of coffee. Local Kichwa people have long steeped celebrated in Samoa,
the leaves to focus during hunts and help interpret dreamsand flew an hour east, and
now, thanks to Brooklyn-based Runa, thirsty travelers can taste counted down again
guayusa in its natural habitat and interact with Amazonian Guayusa leaves in American Samoa
natives during a traditional tea ceremony. Jeannette Kimmel 24 hours later.
MEGHAN MINER

22
National
Geographic
Traveler
 S M A R T T R AV E L E R

L O C A L F L AV O R

A Slice of Scandinavia
THE DANISH WORD smrrebrd translates simply as buttered bread, but any-
one familiar with the open-face sandwich devoured at lunchtime throughout
Copenhagen will consider that pure Nordic understatement. Where to sample?
Traditionalists should start at the venerable Schnnemanns caf, which opened
in 1877 and offers some 100 varieties. Copenhagens new wave of smrrebrd kitch-
Marco Polo
ens like Orangeriet (try the cured salmon with truffled egg) and Aamanns feature
locally sourced toppings like gooseberries and watercress. For picnics, Aamanns
REMOTE CONTROL offers a takeout kitchen next to its restaurant. Raphael Kadushin
Shows to
Binge-Watch
Cant travel this holiday?
Catching up on TV can
provide unadulterated
escape. Swede Style:
Scandinavian cool meets
confused American in
NBCs Welcome to Sweden.
Youll forgive the mild-
mannered writing for its
scenery, which is pure
drama. Back East: Netflixs
first historical series
follows the wartime
exploits of Marco Polo
as a young man in Kublai
Khans court in 13th-
century China. Time
Bomb: ManhattanWGN
Americas period piece set The Danish version
in the tumbleweed town of a dagwood
of Los Alamos, N. Mex.
chronicles the creation of

MICHAEL S. YAMASHITA/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC CREATIVE (POLO), YADID LEVY (SMRREBRD),

the atomic bomb during OPENING

WINFRIED WISNIEWSKI/AGE FOTOSTOCK (WILDEBEEST), JULICHKA/GETTY IMAGES (LADYBUG)

World War II. Great Scot:
Starzs Scotland fantasy Africas New Art Hub
drama, Outlander, warps The recently restored La Villa Ajavon in Ouidah, Benin,
between the 1940s and showcases paintings, photographs, and sculptures from THE BUZZ
the 1740srife with ripped more than 40 of the continents contemporary artists
bodices and rugged land- making the modern art museum one of the first of its kind BEDS FOR BUGS
scapes. KATIE KNOROVSKY in sub-Saharan Africa. John Mark Feilmeyer Seoul Mayor Park Won-
soon plans to build 27 doll-
house-size insect hotels
W E B WAT C H to protect the South
Korean citys smallest
HAVE YOU HERD? residentslike dragonflies,
Stalk Africas largest land-animal migration with honeybees, and ladybugs
HerdTracker, a new Web app that locates tens of in crowded districts. The
thousands of wildebeests on a real-time Google five-story structures will
map. An accompanying news feedupdated by be stuffed with dried grass
local expertsfeatures firsthand footage of river and oak to shelter the tiny
crossings and predator attacks. Monika Joshi tenants while they enjoy
Wildebeest in Kenya a bugs-eye view of the
megacity. CHRISTINE BLAU

24
National
Geographic
Traveler
 Get the Hottest Book
From the Coolest State
Its FREE!

Get your FREE ofcial book today

Alaska the people, the places, the beauty. Its like nothing
youve ever experienced before. Find out how easy it is to
plan a visit. For a FREE ofcial Alaska State Vacation Planner,
simply mail the reply card or visit us online.

For a FREE Ofcial State Vacation Planner, visit TravelAlaska.com/ngt

 S M A R T T R AV E L E R

perfect for novice skiers and has a

new kids ski center) and Crested
Butte provide free lift tickets to
kids six and under. Take advan-
tage of off-mountain activities.
Spend an off-slope day in the
soaking pools at the Old Town Hot
Springs in Steamboat Springs.
Beaver Creek hosts the 2015
Alpine World Ski Championships
(February), giving kids plenty to
watch while they sip a hot choco-
late between runs.

Q. We need an affordable place

to stay with our daughters in
London. Where should we look?
Deals are found away from the
royals. Choose chain hotels (like
Ibis, Novotel, and Park Plaza) in
family friendly neighborhoods
(restaurants that wont flinch
at a stroller, parks with more
than grass to play on) accessible
by the London Underground
(aka the Tube). Anna Tobin
of CiaoBambino.com notes that
Hampstead, and its neighboring
T R AV E L I N G W I T H K I D S
Hampstead Heath park, are good
locations for families. Kids will
Cant the Kids Just Get Along? enjoy a snack at the local crpe
stand and climbing imagina-
By HEATHER GREENWOOD DAVIS
tive playground equipment at
Parliament Hill, she says. For
Q. On our last road trip the kids Q. We are planning a ski trip to more room to stretch out and to
bickering ruined the mood. How NEED HELP? Colorado with young kids. Which save on meal costs, book an apart-
do you deal? We pack destination- ski areas are good for beginners? ment or studio stay. Studio2Let,
focused books (I Wish I Knew For more from Most of the Colorado resorts GoNative, or Housetrip offer low-
That: U.S. Presidents was perfect family-travel will have beginner hills (green), cost options. Purchase an Oyster
for our trip to Washington, D.C.), blogger Heather but choose carefully. At Copper cardthe local Tube passto

MIEKE DALLE/CORBIS (BOYS), STEVE RAYMER/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC CREATIVE (HOUSE)

Greenwood
prep playlists of songs, and bring Davis, visit
Mountain, a lot of the green save you from having to fumble
audiobooks we wont get sick of our Intelligent terrain is up high on the moun- for change on every ride.
(Lightning Thief, Narnia) for times Travel blog. tain, says Jennifer Rudolph of
we all need a break. With younger Colorado Ski Country. The views
REACH
kids, classic car games (the HEATHER: are gorgeous, but if your kids are
license plate game) or a new ver- Twitter nervous about heights, choose
sion (first person to see a cow ) @greenwooddavis a different property like Ski
gets them focused on whats Granby Ranch, where beginner
outside the window instead of runs can be seen top to bottom
the sibling archnemesis beside from the base area. Pick lodging
them. Other tricks? Impromptu that will limit how far you have to
stops (check out roadside kitsch) carry gear. Ski in/ski out options
and side routes offer a chance for (or good shuttle bus service) and
properly belted kids to stretch proximity to the hills youll use
legs and change moods. Finally, most are key considerations.
hand over the map. Knowing Beware of unexpected costs:
whats coming next distracts Some lessons include a lift ticket; Visitors enjoy the Fenton House in
them from asking the proverbial others dont. Aspen-Snowmass Hampstead, London (above). Books
question, Are we there yet? (its Buttermilk mountain is engage kids on a car trip (top).

26
National
Geographic
Traveler
 S M A R T T R AV E L E R

the northernmost region of Mongolia,

Darkhan, we cross-country skied for
230 miles through remote terrain,
surrounded by Siberia on three sides,
and collected 33 DNA samples from
27 sets of tracks to establish the first
knowledge of this population.

D ATA E N T R Y The science community

is underfunded and desperate for data,
without outdoor skills or the time,
money, or ability to get into the remote
places where the information is. Thats
where adventurers are going anyway.
We identify scientists who are actu-
ally creating change now, and we teach
adventurers how to collect useful
information, from snow and water
samples to DNA from scats and hairs.

R O A D S D I V E R G E D So much of what
happens in the woods, or while travel-
ing in other ways, pushes limits. Ive
taken youth who struggle with drugs
and family issues backpacking in the
wilderness. Far out of their elements,
these kids came into their own as they
learned about the beauty of a peak
and the confidence that comes from
self-reliance.

G L A C I A L PA C E I recently spent 11 days

in Iceland. Many people do the Ring
Road, but I wanted to focus on a small
area, so I went to Vk and slowly hiked
my way back across the glaciers, collect-
ing samples of carbon deposits along
EXPLORER
the way. I saw puffins and explored a
cliff edge that Im probably the first to
Trailblazer of the Horizon have climbed. The landscape is unlike
anything Ive seen before: lava com-
bined with glacial carvings and lush
Science is a thrill for this adventurer green grasses, thermals, and puffins,
whales, and marine life. You can hike
SAVING THE PLANET, one scat chasing adventure highs, such as hiking for days without seeing anyone.
sample at a timethats not the the entire Appalachian Trail and trek-
slogan for Adventurers and Scientists king 7,800 miles down the spine of the VA L U E A D D E D Adventurers and trav-
for Conservation, but it could be. Andes Mountains. Here the National elers think big and dream outside of
Founded by Gregg Treinish as a way Geographic emerging explorer shares the box. Theres always an opportunity
to benefit the environment through some of his latest highlights, from to make a difference while you play
adventure sports, the organization Montana to Mongolia: outdoors. That includes everybody,
plays matchmaker between informa- whether youre an Everest climber
tion collectors and thrill-seekers as W I L D T H I N G S Ive tracked spotted owls or hiking a trail or looking for birds.
well as guiding groups through the in Californias forests, grizzly bears When you collect data, youre no longer
backcountry. Treinish funneled his in Montana, and sturgeon in the an outside observer. Youre intimately
energy into conservation after years of Fort Peck Reservoir. We discovered engaged, learning about the issues a
17 new species of single-celled algae place faces and what it takes to preserve
JIM HARRIS

Nature calls: Gregg Treinish studies called diatoms. While tracking an itand that stays with you for the rest
wolverines in northern Mongolia. unknown population of wolverines in of your life.

28
National reported by
Geographic Katie Knorovsky
Traveler
 A D V E R T I S E M E N T

NORWAY: A VISUAL JOURNEY

What is it about Norway that keeps drawing you? What about cultural sites?
The beauty, the weather, and the attitude of the I always plan an extra day or two in Oslo,
people make Norway a dream destination. For because its such a wonderful city. Theres an
me Norway has a crisp, refreshing feel year- opera house at the waterfront, and out in the
round. Its very much a hiking culture. They have harbor are these old wooden boats. So it seems
the Common Right of Access, which allows very traditional and modern at the same time.
people to hike anywhere, even on private land. Other cultural icons are the stave churches.
National Geographic Traveler
DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Theyre perfectly proportioned and very
What are some of the most photogenic spots? distinctive, with dragons on the peaks of the
DAN WESTERGREN The Jotunheimen Mountains, where you can roofs. And theyre always in some picturesque
is a world-class traveler trek hut-to-hut. And, of course, the fjords. I green valley. Its like photography was made so
and photographer. Having love that look from the top, down to the water. you could capture the churches of Norway.
visited Norway fve times, It gives you a feeling of endless landscape.
he ranks it high on his all- Theres a World Heritage site called the Whats special about traveling to Norway?
time favorite list.
Preikestolen, or Pulpit Rock, which is this One thing I love is the light. Theres the never-
perfect cube of a cliff sitting on the edge of a ending light of summer, when people stay up
fjord. It drops straight down for almost 2,000 to play in the midnight sun. That magic hour
feet. Its absolutely stunning. Another place of twilight lingers in a sweet golden glow for
beloved by photographers and everybody else two to three hours. And then there are the
is Sognefjord. Its Norways longest and deepest northern lights with their colorful streamers
fjord. Its lush valleys, soaring mountains, and and luminous arches. What else is special?
farming villages provide a beautiful backdrop The people. They have a charm and humor that
for photos. leave a lasting impression.

Start your journey at VisitNorway.com.

Photos (clockwise from top): Visitors take

in awe-inspiring views atop Pulpit Rock/
Innovation Norway; Historic Bryggen/Scott
Sporleder/Innovation Norway; Jotunheimen
National Park/Dan Westergren; Borgund
Stave church
 A D V E R T I S E M E N T

Whistler WHERE SOPHISTICATION MEETS ADVENTURE

If youre looking for excellence, youll in the intimate wine cellar and try your
find it at Whistler. Follow our itinerary hand at Champagne sabering; or be one
of only 16 people who sit at the chefs
for first-rate adventure, transcendent
table, with front-row views to the kitchen
dining, and peaceful rejuvenation. and Chef Melissa Craig.

Day 1 Day 3
Transfer from Vancouver International Spend an invigorating morning at the
Airport in high style by taking a private Whistler Sliding Centre. This former
luxury SUV along the breathtaking Sea to Olympic track gives you a rare chance to
Sky Highway. Or begin your vacation with experience two thrilling sports. Team up for
an awe-inspiring, 30-minute helicopter a bobsled ride where the top sledders won
ride from Vancouver. Youll be delivered fame, and then go it alone on the super-
to the door of your hotel and greeted fast skeleton run. Continue the adventure
by an informative concierge. Relax with with an afternoon snowmobile jaunt to
a soothing swim and ponder your many Blackcomb Mountains Crystal Hut for a
elegant dining options. Spend the evening romantic fondue dinner.
luxuriating in one of Whistlers everything-
you-need suites. Day 4
Day 2 Ready for what might be the greatest
day of your life? Go for it on a back-
Take a private lesson to fine-tune your country heli-skiing adventure. Unlimited,
downhill skills, or go for goldan ex- untracked powder will make for a truly
clusive ski session with a resident Olym- unforgettable ski experience. Aprs-ski in Day 5
pian. Learn winning techniques and one of Whistlers warm and inviting lounges Spend your final day being pampered at
revel in tales of glory. Then unwind at the like Fifty Two 80 Eatery + Bar. Youll feel the Scandinave Spa. Rejuvenate in the
award-winning Bearfoot Bistro: Warm up in a special glow, indoors or out on the wood-burning sauna, relax your muscles
the worlds coldest vodka-tasting room fire-heated terrace, sipping signature in the Nordic waterfall, or bliss out to a
parkas provided. For a special treat, dine cocktails and dining on sumptuous fare. well-deserved massage. The magnificent
views are yours for the taking. Now its
time to treat yourself to Whistlers culinary
jewel, Araxi. In an ambience both warm and
contemporary, youll savor innovative farm-
to-table cuisine sourced from the nearby
Pemberton Valley. Walk home via Whistler
Villages pedestrian stroll andwhy not?
pick up a unique gift in one of the many
intimate galleries.

Visit Whistler.com/ngt to start planning

your world-class winter vacation.
 S M A R T T R AV E L E R

THE DOWNLOAD

Two Apps
for Your
Next Trip

FOR THE
HISTORY BUFF
FINDERY

Read notes about

places around the
world, left behind
by fellow travel-
ers. Crowdsource
sightseeing tips in
locations such as
New York Citys Stray cat in
East Village to the Italian town
learn about the of Burano
house where Allen
Ginsberg lived, the
story behind the
P R O B L E M S O LV E D
mosaic-dotted poles
in the neighborhood,
and the secret his-
tory of an East Tenth
Putting the Cat in the Bag
Street bench. For By CHRISTOPHER ELLIOTT
iOS and Android
devices, free.
Q. Ive fallen in love with a stray kitten. the price of the transport could fund ten
NEED HELP?
Can I take her home? Feral animals are spay or neuter surgeries for animals left
a big problem around the world, with behind, she says. But if your hearts set
Mexico leading in complaints from Editor at Large on adopting, she recommends working
international visitors. The strays can Christopher with a local rescue agency.
be adorable, but also dangerous (avoid Elliott is our
WHERE TO FIND THE consumer
SWEET SPOTS
petting them). Animal bites are one of advocate and
Q. Im shopping for airfare to South
PARIS PASTRY the chief causes of injuries to tourists author of How Florida. I heard that if I wait until after
and may necessitate a painful series to Be the Worlds midnight on a Tuesday, I can score a
Your guide to the of rabies shots. If you want to bring Smartest Traveler. deal. Is that true? Not so much. Thats
citys bakeries,
pastry shops, and
Fluffy home, youll first need to take her REACH CHRIS: an urban myth built on some half-
confectioners, hand- to a local vet, who can give her all her E-mail truths, says Rick Seaney, the chief
picked by Paris- shots. The Centers for Disease Control celliott@ngs.org executive of FareCompare.com. Chris
based author and and Prevention requires that dogs and Twitter Lopinto, who runs the site ExpertFlyer.
JIM RICHARDSON/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC CREATIVE (CAT)
pastry chef David cats be examined at the first port of @elliottdotorg com, agrees. There is no one perfect
Lebovitz and orga- entry for evidence of diseases that can time. Fares can be loaded and changed
nized by arrondisse-
ment and type of
be transmitted to humans. By the way, multiple times a day, he says. So how to
sweet. The photos dogs must have a valid rabies vaccina- find the deals? Fly in the off-season or
are luscious enough tion certificate, although the kitten over a weekend. Book at least a month
to eat, and the youre looking at does not. Before you early and monitor the price to see if it
descriptions on each adopt abroad, Id listen to what Diana goes down, using a site like Yapta.com,
shop offer guidance Webster has to say. Shes the president says Lopinto. If it does, you can use the
on what to order, in
case youre not sure
of Humane Advisor, an organization site to adjust your fare, if the rules allow
what mille-feuille that helps animals through tourism. it. Bargain hounds who stay up late to
means. Available for I have mixed feelings about adopting find specials may or may not save a few
iOS for $4. strays from other countries when our bucks, but that kind of sleep depriva-
own shelters are overflowing and when tion is almost never worth your time.

32
National
Geographic
Traveler
 l i e s w h e n
Ti m e f s u n .
r e h a v i n g
yo u ' n s h i n e .
u s t b e t he su
M

Explore 825 miles of beaches,

the worlds best theme parks, abundant
shopping and endless ways to stay and play.
 S M A R T T R AV E L E R

CHECKING IN

CHICAGOS INDIE HOTELS

H O T E L L I N C O L N In the heart of Chicagos leafy, stroller-pushing Lincoln Park
neighborhood, just minutes north of downtown, all ages find their Sweet Home
Chicago at this 1920s-era inn that reopened in 2012 with 184 family-friendly guest
rooms across from Lake Michigan. Guests benefit from local staff who point out
their area favorites, such as Second City Comedy Club. We guide guests to the
parts of Chicago we enjoy, hotel manager Onal Kucuk says. LINCOLN PARK; FROM $220

T H E G O D F R E Y Located within walking distance of Michigan Avenues Magnificent

Mile and Chicagos densest concentration of contemporary art galleries, the
16-story Godfrey Hotel rises like a steel-and-glass stack of Legos in the River North
neighborhood, adding to the citys rich architectural lexicon as the first staggered
steel truss building in town. Dont miss: free Saturday gallery walks organized by
Chicago Gallery News. RIVER NORTH; FROM $169

JOIE DE VIVRE HOTELS (MAN, SOFA), THE GODFREY HOTEL (BUILDING), THE BLACKSTONE (HALL)
R E N A I S S A N C E B L A C K S T O N E A classic Chicago gem across from Grant Park in
the Loopthe citys central business districtthe Blackstone first opened in 1910.
Since then, the beaux-arts beauty has hosted every president from William Taft
to Jimmy Carter. A restoration in 2008 revealed gilded walnut paneling and brass
banisters in the lobby. Docents from the nearby Chicago Architecture Foundation
lead daily walking tours through the North or South Loop. SOUTH LOOP; FROM $279
NOTE: RATES ARE THE HOTELS PUBLISHED PRICES. INQUIRE ABOUT LOW SEASON RATES AFTER JANUARY 1.

The Hotel Lincoln exudes a neighborhood vibe (top and left), while the Godfrey
(center) and Blackstone (right) flaunt their architectural bona fides.

34
National reported by
Geographic Ceil Miller Bouchet
Traveler
Focal length: 28mm Exposure: F/10 15.0 sec ISO100 Ian Plant

300mm
100mm
50mm
35mm
16mm

Inspiration knows no distance.

1:2.9 Macro

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The 16mm wide-angle revolution.
Setting a new standard in high-power zoom lenses.
This extraordinary worlds rst1 18.8x zoom comes with Vibration Compensation and
high-speed Piezo Drive autofocusing, making the Tamron 16-300mm Di II VC PZD
Macro a lens you can rely on for crisp, detailed wide-angle to long-telephoto shots.

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*Sony mount without VC
1
As of March 2014 Source: Tamron

www.tamron-usa.com
READY FOR SOME INSPIRATION? OUR ANNUAL LIST OF
 Away from the chic coast,
Corsicas mountainous interior
spotlights historical sites like
the citadel at Corte.

2015
GREAT PLACES WILL HAVE YOU PACKING YOUR BAGS
37
December 2014/
January 2015
 THE PRESIDIO, SAN FRANCISCO

1
FROM SPANISH CONQUISTADORES TO STAR WARS

IF THE SAN FRANCISCO herenever came. The base became a

Peninsula resembles a fore- coveted U.S. Army assignment. Officers
arm ending in a fist, then dream of three things, the saying went:
the Presidio is the topmost to make colonel, to die and go to heaven,
knuckle-by-the-Bay. The and to be posted to the Presidio.
virile park of viridian woods In 1994, ownership passed from the
and knockout vistas can Army to the National Park Service.
make travelers forget its original func- Now the Presidio is a self-sustaining
tion was for war, not Instagram. To San trust, thanks to rents paid by one-
Franciscans, its both muse and play- percenters like George Lucas, whose
groundwith the latest addition being Lucasfilms office here is blessed with
the newly transformed Officers Club, a Yoda sculpture on a fountain. (Critics
reimagined as a local hub for exhibits, prefer sculptor Andy Goldsworthys
performances, and dining. nearly hundred-foot-tall Spire, near
Established by Spanish conquista- the Arguello Gate.) But why nitpick?
dores in 1776, the military garrison of Instead, savor a hot chocolate after a
St. Francis and its 2.3 square miles hike on Crissy Field. Listen for the whiz-
defended the bay from any invaders whir generated by bikers pumping down
tempted by the riches of Alta California. Lincoln Boulevard above North Baker
For the next 218 years, soldiers stood Beachs clothing-optional sunbathers.
guard against the machinations of Delight in the eucalyptus-scented foot-
empires. But the English, Russian, path called Lovers Lane. The Presidio,
Japanese, and KlingonsStar Treks young Skywalker! The Force is strong
Starfleet Command is headquartered with this one. ANDREW NELSON

BEST OF THE WORLD 2015

7 18 3

10 A waiter preps
17 4 a table at
8
Hyderabads Taj
14
1 Falaknuma Palace.
5
15
9

20 16
19
13 2 11
6
12

1 The Presidio, San Francisco 2 Hyderabad, India 3 Zermatt, Switzerland 4 National Mall,
Washington, D.C. 5 Corsica 6 Choquequirao, Peru 7 Sark, Channel Islands 8 Koyasan, Japan
9 Oklahoma City, Oklahoma 10 Maramure, Romania 11 Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar
12 Esteros del Iber, Argentina 13 Tunis, Tunisia 14 Sea Islands, South Carolina 15 Taiwan
16 Medelln, Colombia 17 Haida Gwaii, British Columbia 18 Mont St. Michel, France
19 Mornington Peninsula, Australia 20 Port Antonio, Jamaica

38
National
Geographic
Traveler
2
HYDERABAD, INDIA
A DIAMOND IS FOREVER

STORIES OF HYDERABADS poetic past

weave amid strings of programming
code in this southeastern India city that
was home to one of the richest men in
the world, Mir Osman Ali Khan, the
last ruling nizam of Hyderabad. Now
a seedbed for many global IT brands,
Cyberabad (as its dubbed) is where
you can hear the muezzins call above
the traffic din generated by aging Urdu
scholars and young software engineers
alike. Here, ancient boulders guard the
peripheries of HITEC City, while new
rooftop bars hem in lakes and gardens.
The opulent Taj Falaknuma Palace hotel
perches atop a hill overlooking the Old
City, where Irani cafs thrive alongside
fifth-generation pearl merchants and
the finest fountain pen makers. Prone
to exaggeration, the Hyderabadis con-
versations within these cafs often linger
over three cups of chai and four hours.
A good Muslim ruler was expected to
be an expert with the pen as well as the
sword; the citys founder, Mohammed
Quli Qutb Shah, is credited with the
first published anthology of Urdu
poetry. The later ruling dynasty, the
nizams, provided patronage to poets
within their court. Attend a mushaira
(poetry symposium) for a good introduc-
tion to the citys literary legacy. Theres
also the Hyderabad Literary Festival, in
January, followed by Februarys Deccan
Festival, during which the most pas-
sionate performances involve qawwali,
an 800-year-old form of Sufi music.
Another evocative setting for qawwali
is Chowmahalla Palace, the recently
restored residence of the nizams.
DakhanHyderabadis the diamond,
the world is the ring, says historian
Narendra Luther, quoting the court poet
Mulla Vajahi. The rings splendor lies
in the diamond. SIMAR PREET KAUR

39
December 2014/
January 2015
 3 ZERMATT, SWITZERLAND
PEAK OF PERFECTION
Zermatt witnesses a colorful procession
of chocolate-nibbling tourists searching
Only a five-minute walk from most
hotels, the Kirchstrasse bridge makes an
PATITUCCIPHOTO (HIKERS); OPENING PAGES: MARC DOZIER/
CORBIS (CITADEL); PREVIOUS PAGE: PARIKSHIT RAO (DINING

for cow souvenirs, sunbrowned hikers ideal location to watch the sunrise awak-
WHY WOULD A remote farming hamlet and climbers clomping around in big ening of the mountain. But the closest
turn into a first-class travel destination boots, and the fashionably rich lavish- to the summit a visitor can get without
that attracts 1.5 million visitors a year? ing hundreds of thousands of dollars on donning a climbing rope is via a helicop-
The answer is simple: Because its there. Swiss watches. Yet, one activity bonds ter ride with Air Zermatt. Ive flown
Zermatt, the only village on the Swiss all: Nobody can resist pointing a cam- around the summit some 5,000 times
side of the Matterhorn, has been luring era up to that majestic wonder of nature. now, but its still an amazing experience,
travelers ever since British adventurer The Matterhorn isnt the highest peak says pilot Gerold Biner, who was raised
Edward Whymper made the first ascent in the Swiss Alps, but its nearly perfect in Zermatt. Sometimes we can even see
TERRACE)

of the mythical 14,692-foot peak 150 years triangular shape makes it one of the most the smiles on the faces of the climbers.
ago, on July 14, 1865. Nowadays car-free photographed in the world. MENNO BOERMANS

40
National
Geographic
Traveler
 Hikers survey the
Matterhorn from the
summit of Tte Blanche.

NATIONAL MALL,
WASHINGTON, D.C.
THE GREAT UNFINISHED WORK

4 HISTORY IS A MEANDERING river, not a

straight line. And yet Pierre LEnfants
1791 plan for the new federal city sketched
out a tidy grid of grand boulevards, gar-
dens, and monumentsas if geometry
alone could create a nation.
At the heart of his original scheme
for Washington, D.C., was a mile-long stretch of green, a
blank slate for an emerging America. As the nations for-
tunes grew, so did the National Mall, and by 1922 the park
spanned two miles, from the Capitol grounds to the newly
dedicated Lincoln Memorial.
Changing times called for evolving landscapes. Where
Victorian plants once bloomed, congressional staffers in
fluorescent knee-highs now play kickball. Where Mary
Ann Halls high-class brothel prospered during the Civil
War, the National Museum of the American Indian stands.
An effort to protect high-tech turf, recently planted by
the National Park Service, threatens to push popular
annual festivals off the green lawn.
The Mall is embraced as hallowed ground not because
architects willed it but because people chose it. Citizens
congregate on the Lincoln Memorial stepswhere Marian
Anderson sang America in 1939 and where Martin Luther
King, Jr., gave his I Have a Dream speech in 1963to
contemplate democracys unfinished work, Abraham
Lincolns Gettysburg Address words, etched in the monu-
ment to his legacy.
With the rise of the National Museum of African
American History and Culture, due to open in 2015, the
National Mall marches toward what it should be: not just
a formal park in a federal city, but also a central space for
self-expression and equal representation. In short, a field
where dreams can come true. GEORGE W. STONE

CORSICA Corsican tongue. But to keep that birth- a traditional Corsican polyphonic choir
NAPOLEONS SOULFUL ISLAND HOME right vibrant in the face of tourism and in the foothill town of Calenzana.
its homogenizing effects, their battle Olive groves and quiet villages dot the

5 TWO HUNDRED YEARS AFTER

Napoleon Bonaparte suffered
his final military defeat, Corsica,
his birthplace, stubbornly resists
its own cultural Waterloo. Though this
remains constant.
Fortunately, most of the islands three
million annual visitors come for the
undeniable pleasures of the coast or for
the thrill of visiting historic La Maison
slopes and isolated valleys of the interior,
vast swaths of which are protected by the
Parc Naturel Rgional de Corse, which
covers almost 40 percent of the island.
Hiking trails lace forests of oak and
Mediterranean island has deep, his- Bonaparte, in the city of Ajaccio. All of pine. In the villages here, you encoun-
toric ties to Italy and has been part of which leaves the islands mountainous ter Corsicans who still feel passionately
France since 1769, its 300,000 inhabitants interior largely untouched. Go inland the adage Una lingua si cheta, un populu
retain a fierce pride in their unique and you will find the soul of Corsica, si moreA language is silenced, a people
culture, including the proverb-rich advises Jean-Sbastien Orsini, director of die. CHRISTOPHER HALL

41
December 2014/
January 2015
 CHOQUEQUIRAO, PERU
THE OTHER MACHU PICCHU

6
THE INCA emperors had
quite the eye for spec-
tacular real estate. Upon
taking power, each of
these great lords picked
a breathtaking piece of
property for a new royal
residence. The emperor Pachacutec
likely built the most famous of these
royal digs, Machu Picchu, on a moun-
tainous ridge of cloud forest northwest of
Cusco. But his successor, Tupa Inca, was
no slouch either: His presumed estate,
Choquequirao, drapes temples, plazas,
and fountains along an orchid-strewn
mountain 61 miles west of Cusco.
At an elevation of 9,800 feet, it lacks
easy access by railway or bus. But the
cardio-intensive climb is well worth
it. Choquequirao looks much as it did
when the Inca finally abandoned it. And
travelers often have the place nearly to
themselves: Only 20 to 30 people jour-
ney there each day in the high season.
Its like Machu Picchu in the 1940s,
says Gary Ziegler, an American archae-
ologist who has written a book on
Choquequirao.
But all that may be changing. The
Peruvian government is studying the
possibility of constructing a tramway
to Choquequirao, hoping to lure trav-
elers away from the crowded vistas of
Machu Picchu. Its a prospect that sad-
dens Ziegler. Choquequirao, he says,
may be the last pristine royal Inca estate
in the mountains. HEATHER PRINGLE

SARK, CHANNEL ISLANDS bordered by fieldstone walls and storybook cottages, past fox-
TRADITIONS LAST STAND gloves and bluebells and 600 other kinds of wildflowers, taking
note of butterflies, seabirds, and Guernsey cows. Destination?

7 IN SARK, TIME FLOWS like molasses. Sarkees will

mark the 450th anniversary of feudalism in 2015; the
Perhaps the sea caves at Gouliot Headland, to find anemones.
Or La Marguerite Cottage, to buy duck eggs from Sue Adamss
JEREMY HORNER/PANOS PICTURES

tiny Channel Island off the coast of Normandy abol- streetside honor box. Or Venus Pool, for a swim at low-tide. Or
ished the medieval form of governance only in 2008. especially La Coupe, to walk the skinny track atop an isthmus
But old ways linger: The two banks have no ATMs; the unpaved 300 feet above the sea.
roads lack streetlights; cars are banned. A visitors daytime choices abound. But late at night,
Signposts usefully give distances in walking minutes, for theres just one: the sky. Sark is the first island certified by the
in this unhurried place ambling is what one doesor cycling, International Dark-Sky Association. Time may have swept
or riding in a horse-drawn carriage. Wander country roads feudalism aside. The stars are timeless. PETER JOHANSEN

42
National
Geographic
Traveler
 KOYASAN, JAPAN
LET THERE BE ENLIGHTENMENT

THE AUSTERE HEART OF JAPANESE

Buddhism beats loudly at Koyasan, a
monastic complex that lies two hours by
train south of Osaka. Koyasan marks its
1,200th anniversary in 2015.
Established by revered scholar-monk
Kobo Daishi in 816 as the headquar-
ters for his Shingon school of Esoteric
Buddhism, Koyasan remains one of
Japans most pristine and sacred sites,
manifesting a masculine side of Japan
worlds away from the hostesses and
Hello Kittys of Kyoto.
Koyasan is purity, says a monk after
a crack-of-dawn fire ceremony, where
a priest burns wooden wish-tablets to the
boom of a taiko drum and the sprinkling
of herbs and oils on high-leaping flames.
Staying in one of the temples that wel-
come guests here opens a portal onto
everyday monastic life. Waking to
enshrouding mists, visitors are invited
to join morning chants swirled by cym-
bals, gongs, and incense. At dinnertime,
no-nonsense monks who began the
day hand-scrubbing wooden hallways
roughly plop vegetarian feasts in front
of visitors.
Kobo Daishi is believed to live here
still, sitting in eternal meditation in an
elaborate mausoleum, and through the
centuries, Japans most rich and power-
Visitors approach ful have built palatial sepulchers here as
the main pagoda well. At night, a ghostly lantern-lit trail
in Koyasan, one of winds among the moss-covered stones
Japans sacred sites. deep into the mystery and majesty of
ancient Japan. DON GEORGE

OKLAHOMA CITY, OKLAHOMA Automobile Alley. And then theres MidTown. Not long ago a
PRIDE OF THE PLAINS den of crack houses and abandoned lots just north of down-

9
towns 1995 bombing site, MidTown has sprouted condos, a
OKLAHOMA CITY HAS never been mighty pretty, boutique hotel, and Dust Bowl Lanes, a Tulsan import, with its
despite the shout-out from Bobby Troups iconic 1970s-style bowling alley. The city even plans to add a streetcar
Route 66. To look at, its been more like the beer- loop downtown in 2017.
gut metropolis spilling across the Great Plains. But This is Oklahoma?
things have changed. Were such a blank canvas that even people from Austin
The central Oklahoma River has a community boathouse are moving here, says Hunter Wheat, who just launched
and a new West River Trail. An 11-acre white-water rafting cen- MidTowns Bleu Garten, a one-block food truck complex with
ter is due in 2015. Local architect firms and coffee roasters that open-air movies and live bands. Im just happy to see its grow-
wouldnt be out of place in Portlandia now line once dormant ing into the city I always knew it could be. ROBERT REID

43
December 2014/
January 2015
Sisters photographed
in 2013 in Srbi,
Romania, proudly say
they have no plans to
leave their village.
 A diver explores
Burmas Mergui
Archipelago.

10
MARAMURE, ROMANIA
BOLDLY OLD WORLD

IN THE HISTORIC land of Maramures

the hills are alive with ways long forgot-
ten elsewhere in Europe. My cows dont
like grass that is cut with a machine, Ion
Pop says while harvesting his meadow
near the village of Botiza. They prefer
the clean taste of hand-cut.
The splendor is not just in the grass.
In this remote northwest corner of
Romania 300 miles from Bucharest,
the schedule is set by the seasons, the
weather, tradition. In each of the five
valleys, with their rambling rivers and
haystack-dappled fields, life plays out
as it has for hundreds of yearsthough
one recent change is telling. Rather than
asphalting roads that are mainly used
by horse and carriage, Maramures has
newly upgraded its bike trailspath- MERGUI ARCHIPELAGO, MYANMAR
ways to experience the region at the pace ROLLING IN THE DEEPS
it deserves.
Maramures is a wooden world. The
farm tools are made of wood, and
wooden gates, chiseled with century-
old motifs, form the glorious entrances
to modest yards around wooden, steep-
roofed houses. UNESCO-designated
11 FORBIDDEN ISLANDS sounds like something from a fairy tale,
and stories about Myanmars Mergui Archipelago do seem like
a fantasy: hundreds of hidden white-sand beaches, dense unex-
plored jungles, and clans of the mysterious Moken sea gypsies.
Klaus Reisinger, who co-directed a documentary titled Burmas Forbidden Islands
about the island chain, calls the area one of the last paradises left on Earth.
KATHLEEN LARAIA MCLAUGHLIN (GIRLS), CHRISTOPHE MIGEON/INVISION/REDUX (DIVER)

churches from the 17th and 18th centu- The Burmese government kept the area off-limits to foreigners until 1997. Since
ries tell stories of faith and glory, saints opened to a handful of tour operators, the 800 islands scattered off the southern
and sinners, crime and punishment, coast of Myanmar, in the Andaman Sea, are so seldom visited that many of them
through still vivid paintings on their are known only as numbers on navigation charts.
wooden walls. Wildlife sightings include monitor lizards, sea eagles, and long-tailed
Many of the colorful wooden crosses macaques. Despite years of unregulated dynamite fishing, snorkeling and dive
at the Merry Cemetery in the village of spots still reveal an aquatic festival of life, including eagle rays, sharks, and the
Sapnta are inscribed with lighthearted occasional whale shark. The nomadic Moken people, now largely forced into
epitaphs written in verse. They laugh in settlements, maintain their fishing traditions as they have for countless genera-
the face of deathand hence celebrate tions. As an epic of the Moken goes, The Moken are born, live, and die on their
immortality. PANCRAS DIJK boats, and the umbilical cords of their children plunge into the sea. BILL FINK

FAROE ISLANDS ON MARCH 20, 2015, THERE WILL BE A FULL SOLAR ECLIPSE ON THE FAROE ISLANDS. MY GRAND-
READERS MOTHER TOLD ME ABOUT THE ONE THAT OCCURRED IN THESE NORTH ATLANTIC ISLANDS 60 YEARS AGO. BIRDS ACTED
CHOICE
WINNER WEIRD, BUT HENS JUST WENT INSIDE THEIR HOUSE TO SLEEP. A FEW MINUTES LATER, THE DAY WAS BRIGHT AGAIN, AND
LIFE WENT ON. Sigri Mikkjalsdttir, of the Faroe Islands, whose entry was picked from over a hundred online nominations

45
December 2014/
January 2015
 ESTEROS DEL IBER, a natural reserve in 1983, with 40 percent for these wetlands is the fact that they
ARGENTINA protected within the boundaries of Iber have always been and will continue to be
REALM OF THE JAGUAR Provincial Park. Iber is one of South instrumental in shaping what it means
Americas most important reserves of to be a Correntino, says Perico Perea

12 A DAYS DRIVE NORTH

and a world away from
Buenos Aires, a glit-
fresh water, offering refuge for a vast cast
of birds and other creatures. No vertical
peaks dazzle the visitor from afar; it is a
Muoz, a rancher and environmental
leader. Without the Iber wetlands,
Corrientes is simply not Corrientes.
LINDSAY MACKENZIE/REDUX

tering web of lakes and horizontal landscape that one must enter Now a reintroduction project is bring-
marshes inundates 3.2 million acres in to know its intimate, surprising beauty. ing the jaguar back.
Argentinas northeastern Corrientes The jaguar was the stealthy lord In 2015, with any luck, the first wild
Province. The Guaran call it Y Ber, of the esteros until intensive hunting jaguar cubs in over half a century will be
brilliant water. This entire immense drove it out in the 1950s. But attitudes born in Iber. And Corrientes will truly
area of wetlands, or esteros, was declared have changed. What obliges us to care be Corrientes again. BETH WALD

46
National
Geographic
Traveler
 TUNIS, TUNISIA
NEW SPARK IN NORTH AFRICA

BYRSA HILL, IN TUNISS upmarket suburb of Carthage,

makes a dizzying aerie to watch the sun set into the bay.
The vantage point might be the Light Bar at the decidedly
21st-century Villa Didon, but Phoenician streets lie deep
beneath and, down on the waters edge, the scalloped fore-
shore traces a Roman naval port. Inland, the coils of the
ancient medina and the colonial grid of the early 20th-
A caf overlooks the
marina in the Tunis century French city tell other chapters of Tuniss story of
suburb of Sidi Bou Said. conquest, resistance, flux, and assimilation, from mythic
Dido to the Jasmine Revolution of 2011.
The citys layered charms are something that many
prerevolution visitors missed entirely, on their way to the
Sahara or the Mediterranean beach resorts of Hammamet
and Sousse. These sun-holiday tribes all but abandoned
Tunisia after 2011, but with a relaxation of most travel
warnings to the country, a new breed of traveler has
replaced them. They come to discover Tuniss past, yes,
and now also its cultural energy, what Ahmed Loubiri,
the organizer of international electronic music festival
EPHEMERE, sees as a widespread urge to be creative.
Loubiri says this ranges from random jam sessions in
garages and coffee shops to humongous festivals. Galleries
such as Selma Feriani and Hope Contemporary continue
to thrive in the neighborhoods of La Marsa and Sidi Bou
Said, and Tunisias antiquities museum, the Bardo, has
reopened with an ambitious new wing.
Its a Tunisian habit to know how to receive guests. We
get back as much as we give, says Marouane ben Miled,
who runs La Chambre Bleue, a medina B&B, suggesting
that this fresh popularity might also mark the beginning
of a fertile conversation. DONNA WHEELER

When to go, where to stay, and how to make the most of these
ON THE go-now destinations: www.nationalgeographic.com/best-
WEB
trips-2015. Join the conversation using #bestoftheworld.

SEA ISLANDS, learn that some of the most important rhetorically, eyebrows arched. Wright
SOUTH CAROLINA chapters of American history took place is executive director of the Mitchelville
PATHWAY TO A FORGOTTEN PAST here, right beneath their vacation-tanned Preservation Project, one of the mem-
feet. Take Mitchelville, for instance, a ber organizations in the Gullah Geechee

14 CRUISE HIGHWAY 278,

the main road on South
Carolinas Hilton Head
Island, and it may seem
that little has changed in the 59 years
settlement established by freed slaves
in 1862, a year before the Emancipation
Proclamation. On St. Helena, the Penn
Center stands as one of the first schools
in the South to educate Gullah people.
Cultural Heritage Corridor. Here, visi-
tors experience Gullah culture through
storytelling, sweetgrass basket weaving,
and sampling traditional food. Though
the corridor cuts through the Carolinas,
since entrepreneur Charles Fraser devel- These spots surprise and intrigue Georgia, and Florida, Hilton Head and
oped this sultry Low Country sea island visitors, who arrive knowing little, if St. Helena are the heart of living Gullah
as one of Americas first eco-planned anything, about them. Why? Well, culture, where once forgotten stories find
resorts. But visitors are beginning to who writes history? Joyce Wright asks voice. JULIE SCHWIETERT COLLAZO

47
December 2014/
January 2015
 TAIWAN Performance Index, while China sank to named 2016s World Design Capital. A
OUT OF CHINAS SHADOW the 118th spot. flurry of new buildings opens in 2015,
But Taiwan is much more than including a performing arts center

15 AS CHINA gets mightier

and smoggier, Taiwan
feels calmer and cleaner.
Chinas contrarian runaway bride. The
sweet-potato-shaped islanda tad
smaller than Switzerland (but almost
designed by Rem Koolhaass firm.
More than anything, Taipei lives up
to its reputation as a food mecca. Forget
DANIEL ROMERO/VWPICS/REDUX

When China restricted as mountainous)has a high-tech global about breakfast at the hotel, says pop-
access to the Internet, Taiwan provided urban sector and a thriving aboriginal ular Taipei food blogger Peray. In the
free Wi-Fi islandwide. When China society. In one decade, Made in Taiwan morning, at food stalls, you can get clay
marginalized its ethnic groups, Taiwan went from being a sign of bad quality to oven rolls, charcoal grill sandwiches,
reintroduced indigenous Formosan lan- a national statement of pride. rice with chicken, and rice noodle soup
guages to schools. Taiwan ranks in the Skyscraper-filled capital Taipei, with with pork. The challenge here is staying
top 50 (out of 178) on the Environmental a population of seven million, has been hungry. ADAM H. GRAHAM

48
National
Geographic
Traveler
 MEDELLN, COLOMBIA
FAMOUS FOR FLOWERS. YES, FLOWERS

16
CALL IT THE MEDELLN MIRACLE.
Colombias second city still has
its vices, but the worlds former
cocaine capital has been rehabbed.
Terrorism has ceded to tourism,
thanks to visionary social policies
that have transformed the once
menacing city into a model metropolis. Slums where police
feared to tread are now linked to the innovative business
and cultural hub by the well-protected Metrocable, whisk-
ing visitors aloft to Barrio Santo Domingo, a new tourist
hot spot where the black cubist Espaa library perches
dramatically over the shanties. Downtown, in the valley
below, sunlight glints on skyscrapers and avant-garde
architecture framed by Andean mountainsproof that a
jewel is made complete by a stunning setting.
Art-filled public parks lie at the heart of the citys holis-
tic makeover. Voluptuous sculptures by Medelln native
Fernando Botero stud Plaza Botero, where the Museo
de Antioquia displays paintings by Botero and Picasso.
Nearby, office workers strolling Plaza de los Pies Descalzos
(barefoot park) cast off shoes and socks to rejuvenate
amid a sensory Zen garden. Families flock to Parque
Explora, with its interactive science exhibits and world-
class aquarium. Self-assured young people in designer
jeans swell Parque de Lleras, the citys epicenter for chic
nightlife. Art-mad Medellinenses have even morphed a
former steel mill into the Museo de Arte Moderno. Its
Bonuar restaurant serves Creole fusion fare spiced with
live American-style blues.
Tradition? Relax. It scents the air when the City of
Traditional flower Eternal Spring bursts into bloom for the annual Feria de
bearers annually las Flores in August. The 58-year-old flower festival fills
parade in Medelln.
the streets with kaleidoscopic color, a winsome testament
to Medellns metamorphosis. CHRISTOPHER P. BAKER

HAIDA GWAII, We brought studentsminus lap- National Park Reserve, National Marine
BRITISH COLUMBIA tops and cellphonesto the forest, says Conservation Area Reserve, and Haida
THE SOUNDS OF SILENCE Guujaaw, a Haida leader. They could Heritage Site. In the village of SGang
carry a pencil and paper for sketching. Gwaay, Haida Watchmen share their

17 THE QUIET IS what strikes

people most, here on Haida
Gwaii. On this 180-mile-
long archipelago off the
coast of British Columbia, labyrinthine
A couple of hours later, one student said
the sound of the pencil scratching on the
pad was too loud.
Thirty years ago it wasnt so quiet.
In 1985 the Haida people, alarmed by
culture with visitors to this UNESCO
World Heritage destination.
You can use your listening sense
more, says Ernie Gladstone, a Haida
who serves as superintendent of the
coves snuggle up to dense forests with the ecological damage caused by clear- reserves and heritage site. You hear the
towering cedars. Beneath the ground, cutting, blockaded the logging road. water washing down the beaches, clams
scientists have found evidence of human This nonviolent protest led to Canadas squirting, and ravens, eagles, and song-
habitation stretching back 12,000 years. creation in 2010 of Gwaii Haanas birds in the forest. APRIL ORCUTT

49
December 2014/
January 2015
 MONT ST. MICHEL, FRANCE
FAITH AND A FEAT OF HUMAN GENIUS
19
MORNINGTON

18
FOR ABOUT A THOUSAND years, travelers have gasped PENINSULA, AUSTRALIA
when the Abbey of Mont St. Michel has loomed into view, EAT, DRINK, PLAY, REPEAT
rising from a bay fed by tides that are among the highest
and most treacherous in Europe. What makes the sight THOUGH SYDNEY MIGHT argue the
transcendent is the play of light, sky, and weather that point, Melbourne has established
can shift hourly here off the coast of Normandy. Total itself as Australias food capital, home
isolation was the point, and pilgrims had to wait for the to innovative culinary ideas such as
tide to recede to make their way across the flats to the abbey. micro coffee roasters, nonprofit cafs,
In 1879, a causeway was built to ease the approach to Mont St. Michel. That and expat pop-ups (British chef Heston
and years of agricultural development, though, led to a buildup of silt and sea Blumenthal is moving his Fat Duck
grass. Rather than lording regally over an expanse of water, Mont St. Michel now from England to Melbourne for six
stood at the end of a massive mudflat. A reclamation project began in 2005 with months next year). Melbournes chief
the goal of returning the abbey as much as possible to the maritime context the wine region is the nearby Yarra Valley,
monks envisioned. but an emerging source of bounty is the
What is important is not that we are restoring it to its original state, says rugged Mornington Peninsula, about an
Patrick Morel, who is heading up the massive reclamation effort that includes a hours drive south from downtown via a
dam and a pedestrian bridge leading to the foot of the mount. We are restoring recently opened roadway. The peninsula
the original spirit. The work is on schedule to finish in 2015, when, with delib- distills the flavors of Down Under in one
erate calibration, 50 times a year, Mont St. Michel and its great monastery will boot-shaped cape: paddock-to-plate res-
once again seem to float in the water that surrounds it. MARCIA DESANCTIS taurants, down-to-earth wineries where
the vintners themselves work the tasting
rooms, and small sustainable farms such
At low tide as 2 Macs and Green Olive at Red Hill
pilgrims can that each offer cooking classes.
cross mudflats to
Mont St. Michel. But the region isnt just about food.
In fact, it has always been Melbournes
playground, with people flocking to the
beaches over summer, says Danielle
Field, who, with her brother Max,
guides MP Experience food tours of the
Hinterland Region of Pinot Noir grow-
ers, apple orchards, and strawberry
farms. Snorkelers come to encounter
leafy sea dragons. Terrestrial wildlife
lovers seek out nocturnal pademelons
and bettongs. Says Field, Now the
Mornington Peninsula really has some-
thing for everyone. ELAINE GLUSAC

PORT ANTONIO, JAMAICA Now a new generation has discovered Porties pleasures,
BLITHE SPIRITS IN PARADISE from the smoke-fogged jerk grills lining Boston Beach to the
log rafts that drift down the lazy Rio Grande. British music

20 WHEN A HURRICANE BLEW his yacht off

course in 1946, Hollywood heartthrob Errol
Flynn discovered paradise in Jamaicas Port
Antonio, purportedly proclaiming it more
beautiful than any woman I have ever known. This haven on
producer Jon Baker opened Geejam, a seven-room boutique
hideaway. And with Portie-born, Toronto-based financier
Michael Lee-Chin, he has relaunched two formerly faded
properties, the Trident Hotel and the Castle. Together they are
reviving the Blue Lagoon, the famed swimming hole.
BRUNO MORANDI

the islands northeast coast first boomed when American mil- The Blue Mountains are our natural filter, says Baker of the
lionaires such as Alfred Mitchell and his heiress wife, Annie forested highlands that lie between Jamaicas capital, Kingston,
Tiffany, built estates in the early 1900s. Flynns arrival cued a and its most pristine coast. You have to try harder to get here,
second swell, drawing Nol Coward and Katharine Hepburn. and dig a little deeper for the reward. ELAINE GLUSAC

50
National
Geographic
Traveler
 Birds of a feather
save together.
As a member of National Geographic you could save even
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 THE ROAD TO

WELLVILLE
ERIC FELTEN GOES WEST, WITH GRANDMAS JOURNAL,
DADS MEMORIES, AND A STUFFED BUNNY
PHOTOGRAPHS BY AARON HUEY

A 1932 Chevy, like the

model the authors
grandfather drove
cross-country, turns
on a disused road
in New Mexico.
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/
5
 Fun blast from the past:
A carnival dries after rain
in Wills Point, Texas. The
town is on Route 80, the
Dixie Overland Highway,
traveled in 1936 by
the authors father and
5 grandparents (right).
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 u.s. route 1 southbound
from Washington, D.C., is
a nightmare of suburban
congestion at the moment.
What once was a national
artery connecting Maine
with Key West, Florida, when my father and his
parents drove it in 1936 is clogged with traffic and
traffic lights. I wonder what my father, next to me
in the passenger seat, thinks of the difference.
At least we have great music to listen to. I pull out a box of
CDs Ive assembled, recordings from 1936, with songs by Billie
Holiday, Benny Goodman, Louis Armstrong. I put in a disc
and, feeling proud of my planning, say, Pop, Ive got enough
music to get us across the country listening to just what you
were hearing on the radio as you made your trip.
The car didnt have a radio, he says.
Right. No radio. No DVD player. No Nintendo. In fact none
of the electronic distractions considered essential today for kids
on a road trip. My father had two toys on his cross-country jour-
ney, a Lionel electric train carefully packed in the trunk and a
stuffed bunny. Its a measure of how precious they were to little
Les that he still has both. The train comes out each Christmas to
circle my parents tree. The bunny, which hasnt seen daylight
for decades, is riding with us now, a sort of touchstone.
Were retracing a journey my father, Lester Felten, Jr., made
with his parents, Lester and Lorrie, when he was six. Theyd
sold almost all they owned in New Jersey and loaded what little
was left into a secondhand 1932 Chevrolet for a journey west.
My grandparents, it turns out, were on the tail end of a great
migration, now largely forgotten. When most of us think of set-
tlers heading west, we picture farmers or ranchers looking for
land, or gold-panning forty-niners searching for El Dorado. But
an astonishing number of those who went west in the late 1800s
COURTESY OF ERIC FELTEN (FAMILY PORTRAIT)

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Lonesome dude:
Rancher Albert Miller
rests by the Hi Way
Cafe, a fixture in
Valentine, Texas.
/
5
 and early 1900s werent hunting fortunes. They sought health. is, until Route 1 turns right to head out of town. It is here that
At the time, medicine had no real treatment for tuberculosis, we have the first felicitous find of our journey cross-countrya
the infectious bacterial disease that was killing my grandmother vintage neon sign announcing the Horseshoe Restaurant. Inside
as it had many others. The best that doctors could offer were we find a counter where, some 80 years ago, this former black-
tales about the bracingly clean air of the Rockies or the dry heat smith shop first started serving food to the farmers bringing
of the desert, said to restore enfeebled lungs. A 1913 survey their tobacco to market. By the mid-1930s, the Horseshoe was
found that more than half the residents in El Paso, Colorado doing boffo business with tourists traveling Route 1. It hasnt
Springs, Denver, Albuquerque, Tucson, and Pasadena traveled changed much, except for an updated menu offering foodie
west because they, or someone in their family, had TB. diner options such as bison burgers and fried pickles. We order
So my father and his parents began their odyssey on a well- freshly battered onion rings, choose a dessert from a dozen
worn path when they followed Route 1 from New Jersey south to pies, and find ourselves beaming at the thought that we may
Georgia, where theyd connect with Route 80 for the drive west. be eating dinner where my dad and his folks once ate theirs.
In the 1930s, Route 80 was one of just three roads running from Harder to find will be the places where my father and his
the Atlantic to the Pacific. As the southernmost of the threeit parents slept. One night they would have a fine cabin, accord-
was called the Dixie Overland Highway80 was the best for ing to my grandmothers journal. The next might end with a
travel in winter. A 1931 pamphlet put out by the U.S. Department flat tire. Fixed the tire, she writes, then got in a miserable
of Agriculture Bureau of Public Roads bragged that nearly a Tourist Court, but it was too late to do anything else. Tourist
third of the roads 2,671 miles were paved with brick, concrete courts, typically a clutch of cabins arrayed around a semi-
circular drive, were precursors to motor
hotels, or motels, and only a few have
made it into the 21st century. The few well
see on our trip have been abandoned or
converted into sketchy weekly rentals, the
sorts of places where stoves are more likely
to be cooking meth than dinner.
Across the Carolinas and into Georgia,
much of Route 1 is a rural two-lane back
road. It gives us a feel for the people, the
land, and how the two interact. Speeding
along the freeway, we may not have noticed
the carpets of rust-colored needles under
broad stands of pines. Or the tidy houses,
even the most modest of which has an
impeccable groomed lawn. Impeccable,
except for what look like scraps of white
paper. Thats so odd, my father says.
Then we pass a tractor pulling a wheeled
cage stuffed with freshly picked cotton.
On the highway we also would not have
found the sort of lunch we stumble on in
Georgetown, Georgia. It isnt the trimmed
boxwoods out front that catch our atten-
Young visitors at Vicksburgs annual Riverfest sport face paintings. Postcards and tion but the dirt parking lot packed with
ferry tickets gathered in Mississippi adorn a page (opposite) in Lorrie Feltens journal. cars. Inside we find locals crowding up for
the daily buffet, a smorgasbord of fried
or bituminous macadam. The rest, my grandparents discov- chicken, okra, black-eyed peas, collards, and corn pudding.
ered, was gravel, clay, or graded and drained earth, otherwise
known as dirt. This, more than the tire technology of the day, AT FIRST IM NOT SATISFIED with Grandma Lorries journal.
may have caused the flats my grandfather had fixed along the Rare are the moments she lets the veil slip, exposing honest
way. The flats are detailed, along with much else, in a journal my emotion. The dismay at seeing her treasured furniture carted
grandmother kept. It now is our guide as we retrace their trip. off in a beer wagon is the closest she comes to an outburst. She
not only refuses to complain or vent; she never once mentions
ITS GOTTEN DARK, and Dad and I still have a few hours before the disease killing her. Yet over time I begin to appreciate her
we reach Southern Pines, North Carolina, where he and his reticence, however prim it may seem in our age of (over)sharing.
folks spent the second night of their trip. (Their first was in Im keeping my own journal of the trip, though after ten
Alexandria, Virginia, which we skipped.) Were approaching hours in the car, sitting back down to write notes proves a chore.
the tobacco town of South Hill, Virginia, and though its still Then I think of how tired Grandma Lorrie would have been
early in the evening, the sidewalks are already rolled up. That after a day banging across 400 miles of indifferently paved

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MARK THEISSEN/NGS

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 Saguaros, native to
Arizona, signal the
approach to Phoenix.
U.S. Route 80 once
teemed with motels,
such as the now closed
Palomino (opposite).

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roada weariness that never showed in her penmanship. My We buy our tickets for his cruise, and the boat wheezes out
notebook is a tangle of clumsy, impatient scribbles. My grand- into the lagoon. About the only things we see in the water are
mothers journal is written in the sort of elegant hand that once algae and grass, though at one point a cormorant glides under
was typical of anyone with a grade-school diploma. our vessel looking fruitlessly for fish.
In one entry that intrigues me, she writes of how they paused
for several days in Hazelhurst, Georgia, at her Uncle Hermans WE HAVE BETTER LUCK in Vicksburg, Mississippi, into which
farm. When the time came to leave, she notes, We felt we must we barrel after a ten-hour drive northwest from Silver Springs.
push on. We felt so uncertain about the future and wanted to Site of a decisive Civil War battle in which Union forces first
get it settled. laid siege to, then defeated, Confederate forces, the town sits
For all the uncertainty, my grandparents had the gumption to where old Route 80 meets the Mississippi River.
take a side trip south into Florida, to what was, in an era before We stayed next to the battlefield, my father tells me, at
Disney, one of the states top tourist attractions: Silver Springs Abe Lincolns Tourist Court. It is long gone.
Park (now Silver Springs State Park), north of Orlando, site of A very nice place, my grandmother wrote of the quirky
one of the biggest artesian-spring formations on Earth. lodging. The owner was dressed as Lincoln, even had a natural
My father and I make it to Silver Springs on a very chilly black beard and boots.
day for Florida. The park is deserted, its pavilions, built in the My father and his parents drove around the nearby battle-
1960s, eerily empty of people. Two glass-bottomed boats float field, studying the monumentsat least those they could make
tethered to the dock; a captain waits with each. out. It was too foggy to see much, the journal states.
Shaking hands with Captain Oscar Collins, my dad tells him, Dad and I have better visibility. After a rainy morning, the
I was here 77 years ago, adding that he remembers riding in clouds have cleared, and Vicksburg National Military Park
a glass-bottom boat and seeing fishes, turtles, and alligators in gleams, the sun brightening the marble and granite obelisks,
what was then a crystalline, spring-fed lagoon. memorial temples, and plinths. We climb the 47 steps of the
Wow, says Collins, Ive only been here 44. Continued on page 88

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 Retooling a city:
Meet a new generation of butchers,
bakers, and candlestick makers

B Y L AU R E N McC U TC H E O N P H OTO G R A P H S B Y C AT H E R I N E K A R N O W

P
HILADELPHIA has always been a city of makers. What began in
colonial days as a grid of workshops between the Schuylkill and
Delaware Rivers in southeast Pennsylvania would grow to include
factories, row houses, skyscrapers, and, eventually, suburban sprawl. Then
came the second half of the 20th centuryand urban flight from many
American cities. Manufacturing left Philadelphia. Residents followed. Once
beloved buildings stood vacant. Weeds grew in historic Washington Square.
Decades passed. Then, in the late 1970s, creative folks and urban planners
began to see opportunities in the many abandoned spaces. Artists, chefs,
designers, tinkerers, brewers, and builders eager to ply their trades more
affordably moved in, sparking Phillys revival. Recently, as other cities have
lost their artisan class, these makers have stuck aroundmultiplied, even
helping make Philadelphia the vibrant, entrepreneurial place it is today.

Locals know to arrive early at Artisan Boulanger Ptissier (top left) for its golden croissants and other pastries.
Sartorialist Wal Oyjid (top right) often works from home with his two-year-old daughter by his side. Ellen Yin (lower
left) heads longtime favorite Fork, in Old City. Waffle cones (lower right) wait for scoops at the Franklin Fountain.

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 Michelle Lipson trade was building straw-bale houses. This was followed
Worker in Wood by apprenticeships with revered Pennsylvania furniture
makers Bob Ingram and Jack Larimore. These days, Lipson
ffluent Philadelphians in the 18th century frequently is as apt to use her hand tools as much as her computer-
A posed for portraits beside their newly made furnishings.
Stately piecesQueen Anne desks, Chippendale chairs made
driven new cutting machine, and she teaches the trade to
hobbyists. People want to be in touch with how things are
with cherry and walnut woodhailed from small workshops made, she says. They want to be handy.
in Old City and Society Hill. Today those neighborhoods MICHELLE LIPSON WOODWORKING, 3211 CEDAR ST.
command rents that are too high for most artisanal pursuits,
so woodworkers have carved studios from former industrial Nancy & Bill Barton
sites on the citys edges. Some work out of warehouses big on Beer Pioneers
space and small on overhead; Michelle Lipsons woodshop
was once a coffin factory. Like the William Saverys, Thomas eer is proof God loves us and wants us to be happy.
Afflecks, and other Philadelphia cabinetmakers of yore,
these modern-day woodworkers embrace the aesthetic of
B

Philadelphia statesman and inventor Benjamin Franklin
never actually said this, but its no wonder Philadelphians
their time. For Lipson that means slender tables, desks, and continue to think he did. A century ago, Philly was the
media centers that riff on 1950s styles and reflect the refined beer-brewing-est city in the Western Hemisphere. Today,
tastes of her word-of-mouth clientele. Making things is like Nancy and Bill Barton are part of a new generation of
problem solving to me, she says. Her first foray into the beer makers who are making their sudsy mark on the city.

Stephen Bilenky (above) builds custom bicycles in Olney. The

Philadelphia Brewing Company (right), part of a new generation
of brewers, occupies a restored 19th-century brewery. Michelle
Lipson (far right) poses with a walnut chair she fashioned.

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Their Philadelphia Brewing Company joins Yards, Victory, made mostly in Europe, he says. Today, his Bilenky Cycle
Flying Fish, Dock Street, Saint Benjamin, and a dozen other Works employs six workers and Bilenky is esteemed as a
brewers whose indie logos appear on taps citywide. Every veteran in a field of hundreds. His specialty is one-of-a-kind
Saturday afternoon, the Philadelphia Brewing Company framesrecumbent, cyclo-cross, retrofit, hand-pedal, or
offers tours of its restored 19th-century brewery, which longtail (extended in back to carry cargo)for nonstandard
include free samplings of beers (try the Harvest from the bodies and lifestyles. He has built bikes for father-son
Hood pale ale, made with neighborhood-grown hops). Ben triathletes Dick and Rick Hoyt, a Seattle Symphony member
Franklin, who really did state, A penny saved is a penny and her violin, and two Norwegian mail carriers. To such
earned, would have wholeheartedly approved. cyclists, Bilenky is a legend. He remains, however, nearly
PHILADELPHIA BREWING COMPANY, 2440 FRANKFORD AVE. anonymous in his hometown, where city bicycle lanes still
struggle for respect and a bike-share program has yet to
Stephen Bilenky launch (plans are for sometime in 2015). This may be due
Bicycle Built for You in part to Bilenkys price point: His cycles start at around
$3,000 and can exceed $15,000. Our methods, he explains,
ost of the machines at Stephen Bilenkys out-of-the-way do not lend themselves to mass production. Then again,
M Olney shop are, he says, World War I technology. This
native of Northeast Philly began building bikes in 1983, back
he relishes any chance to refurbish a classic Schwinn or a
vintage Miyata. His simple philosophy: Bikes need to be
when customer requests came via snail mail, a one-man decent, serviceable machines. Bikes should last 50 years.
brazing shop was an American anomaly, and tandems were BILENKY CYCLE WORKS, 5319 NORTH SECOND ST.

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 Eric & Ryan Berley the new drinking chocolate caf. One more concession to
Historically Sweet contemporary habits: an online retail site where fans can
order the candy shops brandied cherries and nonpareils for
he chocolate drops in one of the antique glass jars at the delivery right to their door.
T old-timey Shane Confectionery look like unwrapped
Hersheys kisses. They arent. Theyre Wilbur buds, the once
SHANE CONFECTIONERY, 110 MARKET ST.

famed product of a sweets factory up the street in Old City, Anna Bario & Page Neal
a relic of the days when candymaking ranked as a major Global Smiths
Philadelphia industrybefore mass snack production put an
end to that. Almost. Shane, the countrys oldest continuously ewelers Row, basically a few blocks that form a capital I
run sweets store, is one of the few confectioners that remain
(others include Lores, on Seventh Street, and Blasius, in
J along Sansom Street between Seventh and Eighth Streets,
has dibs as the first diamond district in the U.S. But a few
Kensington). Thanks go to brothers Ryan and Eric Berley. blocks to the south, bijoutires Anna Bario and Page Neal are
Already well-known for creating the Victorian-inspired forging a shining first of their own. In 2007 the pair adopted
Franklin Fountain ice-cream shop next door, they bought an eco-friendly and ethical platform: The precious metals
the candy business in 2010. The place needed freshening and stones in their jewelry are either responsibly mined or
up, says Eric. They took 18 months to renovate the space, recycled. We wanted to have a positive impact as far as
with its tin ceilings and yellow pine floors. Their aim wasnt manufacturing, says Bario. In 2014 they began acquiring
to modernize but to revive the candy store that once was, their gold sheets through the Alliance for Responsible
says Eric. They still use the upper floors to make classic Mining, which works with small South American co-ops.
Philly buttercreams in a two-ton, 1920 machine built for that We know the miners work conditions, we know the
purpose, and employ more than a thousand antique molds health conditions, we know the environmental conditions,
for Easter chocolates. Nods to contemporary tastes include Bario notes. A portion of the miners fee is reinvested in
scented marshmallows, honey lavender caramels, and community building. Bario and Neal give the same careful
consideration to stones, especially diamonds. Engagement
rings, wedding bandsthats where some people first care
about sourcing, says Bario. After all, the rings will be worn
every day for a lifetime.
BARIO NEAL, 700 SOUTH SIXTH ST.

Ellen Yin
Restaurateur Extraordinaire
hen Ellen Yin was studying for her M.B.A. in health-
W care management at the University of Pennsylvanias
Wharton School, the buzzword of the day was continuous
improvement. After 17 years in hospital management, Yin
left for restaurant ownershipand brought the concept
with her. Fork, her first venture, consistently ranks as one
of Philadelphias (and the countrys) foremost dining spots.
Yin opened the American bistro when Old City was just
getting on the map for its gallery scene. She engaged the
talents of area artists, including a server who is still employed
there, to create an approachable, elegant atmosphere: velvet
drapes, abstract art, hand-painted lampshades, and, instead
of a sign, a doorway mosaic. Her kitchen, now helmed by
chef Eli Kulp, exploited local talent, too, sourcing ingredients
from area farmers, butchers, and cheesemakers. We were
farm-to-table before the term was coined, said Yin. Last year,
the entrepreneur expanded operations next door, offering
breakfast through dinner in the casual, bread-centric High
Street on Market. A few months later, she and Kulp took
over operations at Rittenhouse Squares ambitiously modern
a.kitchen and a.bar, which have ingredients grown to spec
and set their tables with Philadelphia-made pottery and
woodwork. Its either make it better, or quit, says Yin.
FORK RESTAURANT, 306 MARKET ST.; HIGH STREET ON MARKET, 308 MARKET ST.;
Anna Bario and Page Neal display their ethically mined gems. A.KITCHEN + BAR, 135 S. 18TH ST.

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 Brothers Ryan and Eric Berley
churn out pumpkin buttercream,
a filling for chocolates, in the
upper loft of Shane Confectionery.
 Christopher Kearse
Culinary Artist
he short list of iconic Philly foods isnt exactly filled
T with haute cuisine. Hoagies, soft pretzels, scrapple,
Tastykakes, and, yes, cheesesteaks are instead results of
a working-class demand for fast, inexpensive fare. That
demand endures. Today, however, theres a converse call for
more refined menus, a call answered both in chef-driven
empiresIron Chef Jose Garces oversees about a dozen local
restaurantsand singularly focused upstarts. Passyunk
Avenues two-year-old, 30-seat Will fits the latter category.
Owned by Christopher Kearse, the French BYOB bistro has
become known for its impeccably plated, locally sourced
seasonal French fare (dont miss any version of duck, or
soups poured at the table). But its also known for the chef
himself. Kearse was 16 when he became the victim of a drunk
driving accident; his recovery has taken years. But that
didnt stop him from graduating first in his class from the
Restaurant School at Phillys Walnut Hill College and
cooking at Californias French Laundry and Chicagos Tru.
At Will, Kearse is not just cooking his heart outhe is
hosting that way too. If you really need a two-top on a
busy Saturday night, he says, we can always fit you in.
WILL, 1911 EAST PASSYUNK AVE.

Wal Oyjid & Samuel Hubler

Worldly Sartorialists
orry, kids. Historians now are questioning whether
S Philadelphias Revolutionary Warera seamstress Betsy
Ross was the first to stitch the Stars and Stripes. No one,
however, questions who is in charge at the Afrocentric
menswear line Ikir Jones. Wal Oyjid and Samuel Hubler
show their wax cottons quite literally on their sleeves,
though their first collection of made-to-order suiting hid
their signature West African prints inside tweedy exteriors.
The business partnersOyjid is an Afrobeat musician
and former civil defense litigator; Hubler is a family-taught
tailor and designeruse an Old World five-step soft-sewing
process. The fabric has international DNA, says Oyjid,
who was born in Nigeria and grew up in Philly. It comes
from the Netherlands but is made for the West African
market, where it has the same symbolism as Scottish clan
tartans. Oyjid left a large law practice to launch the mens-
wear label in a deliberate attempt to realign my life with my
values. Among those values: Telling a story and working at
home, daughter Naima by his side. I try to introduce other
parts of the world in a way that is interesting, he says.
IKIR JONES, IKIREJONES.COM

Ben Volta
Mural Mentor
isiting all of the 3,600-plus public paintings created by
V the nonprofit Mural Arts Program poses a challenge.
But the citywide collectionthe largest of its kind in the U.S.,
founded 30 years ago as an anti-graffiti initiativemore than

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 merits a departure from the beaten path. A walk through
Center City reveals dozens of such works, variously created
by students, at-risk young adults, and prison inmates who
have been trained in painting, building, mural installation,
and other skills by Mural Arts staff and volunteers. The
murals that may best demonstrate the power of community
art, however, reside in Philadelphias farther reaches. Take
Mantua. Just north of University City, it is a neighborhood
in one of five Promise Zones designated for federal aid by the
Obama Administrationand home to Micro to Macro, a
colorful 12,000-square-foot study of the universe that graces
the kindergarten-through-eighth-grade Morton McMichael
School. Artist Ben Volta collaborated with seventh graders
and their math and science teachers to imagine and make
the work, which, from planning to unveiling, took more
than a year. Students did much of the painting. The result
is a vision that, says Volta, goes into galaxiesand goes
into atoms. It also kind of gets under your skin. Right
into your heart.
MURAL ARTS TOURS DEPART FROM VARIOUS CENTER CITY LOCATIONS.

Dan & Trish Fiorella

Sausage Makers
he scene that Luigi Fiorella oversees in his shop, Fiorella
T Brothers Sausage Company, has not changed since he
founded the place in 1892. Fiorellaokay, a portrait of him
hangs above the original weight scales. It faces the same
Samuel Hubler and Wal Oyjid (above) work on their boldly brass cash register, the same dumbwaiterhemp rope still
patterned jackets. Chef Christopher Kearse pours coconut crankingand the same marble and mosaic countertops
vinaigrette (left) over a salad of fruit and flowers at Will. Ben that Fiorella used when he presided over the place. At age 19
Volta and students show off a mural they painted (below). Fiorella left his home in Foggia, southern Italy, joining the
first wave of Italians to settle on Center Citys southernmost
edge. Fiorellas people werent the first to live in the working-
class neighborhood; the Swedes claim that distinction.
But Italians were prolific builders, constructing row houses,
churches, and the vibrant open-air Ninth Street market
(the oldest of its kind in the United States). All still thrive.
Dan Fiorella, Luigis 65-year-old great-grandson, has
worked in the family business for 44 years, first alongside
his dad, later with his brother, and now with his wife, Trish.
Under the youngest Fiorellas tenure, the shop has made
updatesnew refrigeration, a spotless kitchen. But when
it comes to product, Dan Fiorella adheres to Luigis original
mission. All we make is Italian sausage, in seven varieties.
We make a hot sausage and a mild sausage, with fennel seed
and without. We make a cheese sausage and a breakfast
sausage. And we make a liver sausage, using the recipe of
my great-grandmother. Some things, it seems, cannot be
improved upon.
FIORELLA BROTHERS SAUSAGE COMPANY, 817 CHRISTIAN ST.

Amanda Eap & Andre Chin

Early Risers
eard of the city that never sleeps? Its not Philly. Bars
H and nightclubs close promptly at 2 a.m. Weekend
mornings, locals tend to sleep inexcept if they are fans

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January 2015
 of Artisan Boulanger Ptissier. On an unassuming corner A little more than a decade ago, fashion retail worth talking
of South Philly, neighbors have taken to rising early for about returned to Philly. Some observers attributed the retail
the youd-swear-you-were-in-France baguettes and pure revival to an improving economy. Others credited the growth
butter pastries made by Andre Chin and Amanda Eap. of Urban Outfitters, headquartered in South Philly, or the
Chin, a Paris-trained ptissier, does the baking. Eap intensified fashion-design programs of local universities.
works the counter, fills pastries, makes specialty cakes, Then again, it could have been thanks to pioneering boutique
and crafts breakfast croissants, followed, later in the day, owners such as Lele Tran, a dressmaker who opened an
by Vietnamese hoagies known as banh mi. The two met in eponymous (and since closed) shop in Old City in 1997, right
West Philly, at Eaps dads doughnut shop, years after theyd when the historic neighborhood was ready to embrace local
separately escaped their native CambodiaChin, alone, to style. Before long, more than a handful of vendors of vintage,
France, Eap to Pennsylvania with her family. Marrying, they independent, and international fashions appeared in Trans
moved to South Philly as young parents, taking a chance on wake. Today Tran is a professor at Philadelphias Moore
a vacant storefront. For the first few years we struggled, College of Art & Design. Concurrently, she has taken the
Chin admits. But they hung on, watching as their Italian making and selling of designer goods a step further: Three
neighborhood filled with newcomers, who dubbed their years ago she formed an all-local co-op, US*U.S. The space,
new digs East Passyunk. When those newcomers started which sits directly across from the Arch Street Meeting
having families of their own, business took off. Chin calls the House, is small, but the made-in-America pieces, from
line out the door gratifying. Locals just call it necessary. frocks adorned with sequins to wool scarves that zip into
ARTISAN BOULANGER PTISSIER, 1218 MIFFLIN ST. endless shapes, are thoroughly on point.
US*U.S., 323 ARCH ST.
Lele Tran
Cooperative Clothiers L AU R E N McC U TC H EO N is a features reporter who covers
culture, food, and family at the Philadelphia Daily News.
sed to be, when discriminating Philadelphians went Contributing photographer C AT H E R I N E K A R N O W fell in
U clothes shopping, they headed to New York. No longer. love with Philly while shooting this story.

Lele Tran (center) and a group of other designers from the co-op US*U.S. gather in their shared storefront in Old City.

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 NEW!
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 THE INSIDER To
East Kensington, Olney, &

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French ironwork. to the document that Philadelphia digs. during his famous run. just as popular for
The parkway runs would proclaim Others may know the its clutch of bistros,
from City Hall to the independence from SOUTH PHILLY FARE stretch as one of the cafs, art galleries,
Philadelphia Museum King George III. Along Fans of actor-director oldest open-air mar- and boutiques.
of Art, where visitors the cobblestones of Sylvester Stallones kets in the nation.
like to run up the steps Chestnut Street are work will recognize Dont miss: the endless ATLAS
featured in the film the Liberty Bell, with South Ninth Street cheeses and olives at
Rocky before viewing the crack that was between Fitzwater and Di Bruno Brothers,
NY
the Eakins. (Gah head. caused by its clapper, Wharton Streets as the truly odd meats at
Everyone does it.) and the remains of the place where Rocky DAngelo Bros., the
New York
loaves of Italian bread PA City
at Sarcones Bakery, Philadelphia
and the house-made Harrisburg
QUAKER MAKER NJ
mozzarella at Claudio. Washington, MD
THE V IS I ON OF WV D.C. DE

WILLIAM PENN AUTHENTIC OLD CITY

Historic sites in down- Philadelphias Pennsylvania
The man atop City Hall is city
town Philly include Academy of Fine Arts,
planner and commonwealth (state) founded in 1805, is the
wee Elfreths Alley,
CATHERINE KARNOW (TOWER); INTERNATIONAL MAPPING

founder and namesake William oldest art school in the

Penn. An early member of the the onetime home of United States.
Society of Friends, Penn had an myriad makers, among
urban vision that included a grid them an African tailor, The first U.S. patent was
a German shoemaker, awarded to a Philadelphian,
of numbered streets running Samuel Hopkins, in 1790
north-south, from Front (First)
glassblowers, first for a new way of making
lady Dolley Madison, potash.
along the Delaware River west
and seamstress Betsy
to the Schuylkill River. East-west
Ross. This neighbor- One percent of all new
thoroughfares were named for his
hood, which is home to construction in Philadelphia
Philadelphia City Hall favorite trees. Chestnut, Walnut, must be designated for
the historic Episcopal
Locust, Spruce, and Pine remain. public art.
Christ Church and the
redbrick Betsy Ross

72
National reported by
Geographic Lauren McCutcheon
Traveler
 A WINTERS TALE
Impassable but not impossible: A horse-drawn sleigh ride
through northwestern Chinas Altay Mountains
BY MARK JENKINS

PHOTO CREDIT

74
National
Geographic
Traveler
 Traditional chana
sleighs glide along
a mountain valley.
Skiing on boards,
here covered with
animal skin, may have
originated in the Altay
region millennia ago.
Snow veteran, a horse
(opposite) hauls a
chana up an incline.
 ITS 35 DEGREES BELOW ZERO
FAHRENHEIT, AND OUR HORSES DONT GIVE A DAMN.
Large heads bowed, snow coating their thick hides, plumes of horses are having to plod through deep snow, so we move just
steam swirling from their frosted nostrils, theyre primordial a little faster than a human walks. This allows plenty of time
beasts genetically inured to intense cold. A wooden sleigh called to take in the landscape. Beyond Jaldungwe we wind through
a chana is attached to each horse by long pine poles and a curved groves of black-armed birch trees. As the trail steepens and the
yoke. The design of the sleighthe width of a horses ass, the snow deepens, the horses begin to bog down. Then they stop.
length of a human body, with two curl-tipped runnershas Norbek rolls off the lead chana into the waist-deep powder,
not changed for centuries. struggles to slog to the front of his horse, flips its reins over one
Our chana driver, Norbek, a rough-cut Kazakh as impervious of his own shoulders, and starts to pull the 800-pound animal.
to the cold as his horses, adjusts the leather straps with bare Eager to please, the horse lunges forward like a wildebeest in
hands. He has loaded the two sleighs with our backpacks, deep water. Ayiken takes the reins of the second horse and
cross-country skis, and sacks of hay for the horses. Bundled in plows ahead, his short legs lost in the drifts. Larsen and I
down parkas, mittens, and insulated pants and boots, we are push the 300-pound sleighs from behind. This is not easy. We
about to sled into the Altay Mountains of central Asia. flounder even worse than the horses, slipping and falling. Soon
The Altay, an obscure range that is buried
in snow all winter, rises at the converging
borders of China, Mongolia, Kazakhstan, and
Russia. It may well be the last place on Earth
where horse-and-sleigh, an ancient form of
travel, remains the primary means of winter
transportation.
Four of us are on this expedition: Norbek
and I on one chana, Nils Larsen and Ayiken on
the other. Larsen is an American ski historian
who has traveled to the Altay nine times to
research the origins of skiing. Shaggy-haired,
soft-spoken, and a master skier, he lives in a
century-old cabin outside of rustic Curlew,
Washington, and owns a small ski company.
Ayiken (pronounced I-kin) is our factotum, a
rosy-cheeked Kazakh fluent in five languages
who is as at ease with pinched-faced Chinese
bureaucrats as with broad-smiling nomads.
Our goal is Hemu, a village deep in Chinas
northwestern province of Xinjiang, where
MARK JENKINS (SKIER, OPENING PAGES), JONAS BENDIKSEN/MAGNUM PHOTOS (HORSE)

Larsen is hoping to interview the last living members of a ski were covered with snow and sweating profusely. Nonetheless,
culture thousands of years old. To get there by chana, we must with Norbek and Ayiken stomping forward yanking the reins
cross a mountain pass, then parallel the icebound Hemu-Kanas as Larsen and I push, we manage to reach the top of the pass.
River. In summer, Hemu is a one-day journey by horseback. Im getting a firsthand glimpse of winter life in this remote
Now, in February, it will take much longer. region without roads and automobiles. Only a few hours into
As were about to set off from a settlement named Jaldungwe, our journey, my dashing-through-the-snow Doctor Zhivago
a horseman gallops up to warn us that avalanches have closed illusions about chana riding have vanished. Horses here were
the chana track to Hemu. the original automobiles, tamed, then bredso, in a way, built
He says it is impassable, translates Ayiken. as beasts of burden by Norbeks ancestors. Archaeologists in
Norbek nods, his eyes squinting, his face snow-burned to fact believe one of the few places where wild horses survived
leather from so many years of living in the elements. When the the freeze of the last ice age was here on the Eurasian steppe,
horseman departs, Norbek flicks the reins of his horse and we an expanse of grassland and taiga stretching for more than
glide off over the snow. He knows these mountains and knows 3,000 miles, from the Altay Mountains to the Transylvanian
his horses, which quite possibly descend from Genghis Khans Alps in Romania. In addition, recent evidence is suggesting
own steeds, with coats dense as fur and tails so long, they drag the wild horse was domesticated approximately 6,000 years
at the hooves. The shaggy creatures pull our chanas in single ago in this same region.
file with muscled resolution, and considerable flatulence. As our horses gulp down snow, Larsen and I unpack our
What first strikes me riding a chana is the lack of speed. The skis, clip in, and slide off the back side of the pass, whooping

77
December 2014/
January 2015
 away. Norbek and Ayiken follow on the chanas. Though our As if in return for my newfound sanguinity, we spot a tiny
skis are modern, as Larsen and I cut turns down through the yellow light on the black horizon. It seems a mirage in the inky
trees, we echo the experience of the Altay Mountains original vastness, appearing and disappearing as we traverse dunes of
skiers, faced as they were with months of powder. snow. Drawing near, we see the light is emanating from a cabin.
The deeper we go into the landscape, the deeper the snow Were saved! A dog howls as a man in quilted pants appears in
gets. Once again the horses begin to flounder. Norbek remains the blackness. We park our chanas and shake his hand. Inside
insouciant, as does Larsenthey have shared many a chana the cabin, beyond the blanket-draped door, sit the mans bewil-
journeybut I begin to fear for our animals. Ayiken relays my dered wife and son. We stare at each other in mutual surprise.
concern to Norbek. We cant believe our good fortune, and they cant imagine what
Hes afraid we may kill the horses. the hell were doing out here at night in the dead of winter.
Norbek, standing waist-deep in snow as he rocks a chana to Ayiken makes introductions. The man of the house, Womir
unstick it, looks at me, shaking his head. Onward. Larsen and I UzakAyiken explains this means long lifeis short and
wiry, with a crooked nose that looks like the result
of a hoof to the face. His wife, Meir Gul, is a round-
faced beauty. Their son, Janat, wide-eyed, with an
even wider smile, looks to be 12 years old. Ayiken
asks politely if we might spend the night.
Boladi, boladi. Sender bizdeng honahtar! Uzak
says. Of course, of course. You are our guests!
Its past 10 p.m., but Meir Gul stokes the fire,
sets a giant pot on the woodstove, fills it with meaty
bones, and begins making noodles from scratch.
Outside, Uzak and Norbek unharness our
horses. There is no horse barn; the animals are
neither watered nor fed. They just stand, behe-
moths of stoicism. I want to invite them into the
deliciously warm cabin. Our hosts, Ayiken learns,
are caretakers of a herd of horses in the valley; all
winter they shovel snow off the haystacks to feed
them. Ayiken explains were on our way to Hemu.
Uzak nods and says, incidentally, That route is
closed because of avalanches. His manner is
indifferent; because its closed doesnt mean its
impassable. All here is a mat-
Altay skiers pole their way along a ridge in Xinjiang Province; ter of muscle and perspective.
wrapping their skis in skins provides traction for uphill climbs. RUSSIA
Exactly an hour after our
Altay MONGOLIA
M arrival, Norbek goes out and
forge forward on our skis, stopping at each swath of avalanche KAZAKHSTAN feeds the horses hay.
ts.

debris to dig a route for the horses. At dusk the animals become Xinjiang If I give them water before
Beijing
so mired in a snowbank that Norbek has to unhitch the chanas I feed them after a hard day,
CHINA
and let the horses make their way throughwhich leaves him, he explains through Ayiken in
INDIA
with our pitiful help, dragging the sleighs. a rare break from taciturnity,
The temperature has plunged below minus 40 degrees, the they will bloat themselves
horses are encased in ice, and Norbek is utterly unperturbed. and not eat.
Larsen had bragged about Norbeks skills as a chana driver, but Around midnight, we all sit JONAS BENDIKSEN/MAGNUM PHOTOS; INTERNATIONAL MAPPING

I quietly decide hes insane and our horses probably will die. down to bowls of mares yogurt, beef stew mixed with noodles,
Norbek rehitches the chanas to the horses and we trudge bread and jam. As I dig into the stew, Norbek heads out to give
onward into the gloaming. Night stars appear, illuminating the the horses water. He doesnt sweet-talk them or pet them or even
mountains in a pale, phosphorescent blue. Slipping along on my break off the chunks of ice plating their shivering flanks. When
skis, I notice my fingers and feet have become cold but my core I ask him if he shouldnt put a blanket on the horses, he shakes
is warm. Surprisingly, thats good enough, just as it has been for his head no.
Norbek and his ancestors for millennia. The four of us are travel- Our bellies full, bodies exhausted, minds scrubbed clean of
ing through a land using a method that belongs to a distant past. thoughts by a day in deep snow, we climb onto the wall-to-wall
If we want to survive out here, we must keep moving. The real- sleeping platform carpeted with rugs, which has more than
ization bemuses me. Our situation is elemental, irreducible. No enough space for our three hosts plus the four of us. I scooch
thinking is needed, only doing. I enter Norbeks mind, Norbeks down into my sleeping bag and sleep a dreamless sleep.
reality. I must ski into the looming darkness without thinking. When my eyelids lift in the morning, Meir Gul already has
Nothing more. Acceptance of this soon will liberate me. the fire blazing and cups of milk tea steaming on the table. I step

78
National
Geographic
Traveler
WELCOME!

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urban places they know and love in this photo-rich, ultimate
insiders guidebook. Its an urban adventurers dreama
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Copyright 2014 National Geographic Society.
Help protect the
most beautiful outside, fully expecting to find our horses and other impediments are part of the
destinations on frozen solid, iced sentinels that will stand
before this cabin until the spring thaw.
rhythm of the day. Altay people expect
them without dwelling on them, take
our planet. But the beasts still breathe; Norbek is whatever effort and time is required to
slipping their halters back on and reat- get through them, and move along.
taching the chanas. To my surprise, within two hours
Uzak said that to reach Hemu wed we have shelved out a track through the
have to dig our way through this winter avalanche debris. Naturally, around the
wonderland, so we hire him to help. Hell bend, we find another avalanche, but by
trot ahead, tromping out a track. Back now I dont care. Im getting the hang of
into the wilderness we sleigh, away from this. The Zen of traveling by chana.
our cabin of salvation. Meir Gul waves. It is midafternoon when we reach
Larsen and I, eager to lighten the load another cabin and are invited in by the
of our horses, choose to ski; Ayiken and owners, a Kazakh family, for milk tea
Norbek will drive the chanas. Wolverine and fried dough. Outside the cabin, a
tracks are everywhere; among the most solar panel is set in the snow. We are told
elusive of animals, their pres- it can power a cellphone, two
ence here, Larsen says, suggests READ IT
light bulbs for a few hours, and
a fairly intact ecosystem. DO IT the toy electric crane I see on
We continue on, and soon the floor. As we eat, the familys
Experience the
the valley narrows. We know Altay Mountains in matriarch, seated by the wood-
our way is about to be impeded. Chinas neighbor stove, operates the controls of
nation of Mongolia
Sure enough, an avalanche has and capture images of
the small crane while a three-
obliterated a section of the old themon a Mongolia year-old boy with a traditional
Photo Expedition with
chana track. Our horses pull up National Geographic
haircuthead shaved but for a
at the slide as at the banks of a Expeditions. For the tufttries to break the jerking
raging river. Uzak unsheathes itinerary and more toy. We are back in civilization.
information, log on to
his shovel and goes to work. ngexpeditions.com/ The final leg of our journey
The four of us deploy our skis, mongolia. to Hemu will be along a well-
chopping out snow on the high used chana track. If Larsen and
side to fashion a sort of platform. Its I stay on skis, we wont be able to keep up
slow business. I calculate itll take days with the chanas, so we join Norbek and
to trench a path across this avalanche. Ayiken on the hay bales. When we set
Methodically digging and shoveling off, the horses, now free of deep snow,
snow, it dawns on me this is what the practically gallop. The sun is slanting
locals have been doing for centuries. Im across the snow, and soon the chanas
certain Norbek, Ayiken, and Uzak dont are gliding along as if on ice. Enchanting
give it a second thought. If they want to as this is after our labors, Im finding it
get somewhere in winterfor supplies, disappointingly uneventful. In Hemu
for help, for conversationthey and their there will be skiers using traditional
horse-drawn chanas are it. It doesnt wooden skis, but there also will be SUVs,
matter how hard the work is or how long even a plowed roadand Im not ready. I
Make a donation this it takes. They have no choice. want to remain in ancient Altay.
month, and your gift Again, I find a gratifying freedom in As the low cabins of Hemu come into
this lack of options. We cant go up, down, view, blanketed with a flat gray cloud of
will be eligible for a over, under, or around, so we have to go woodsmoke, I find myself wishing we
50% match. through. Well then, dig. Not in frustra- had another snow-covered pass to make
tion, not impatiently or angrily. Not with our way across. I find myself yearning
any emotion at all. I give my mind a rest for more nights out in the unknown,
Learn more: and let my muscles do the work. for more miles of deep snow to traverse
my.rainforest-alliance.org/natgeo If we were stuck somewhere in my by horse and chana. And I find myself
home state of Wyoming, an obstacle such envying what Norbek and Ayiken have
as an avalanche would be identified by in their rugged homeland.
the older generation as an opportunity to
build character and by the younger as National Geographic contributing writer
like, really unfair. Not to the Kazakhs M A R K J E N K I N S skied Yellowstone
of the Altay. They dont weigh obstacles and climbed Devils Tower for us in
down with emotional freight. Avalanches Americas Cathedrals (October 2013).

80
National
Geographic
Traveler
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 PHOTO CREDIT

00
National
Geographic
Traveler
 FIRST
PLACE

A storm cloud
in Colorado,
captured by
Marko Koroec

of
WINNERS OF TRAVELERS 26TH ANNUAL PHOTO CONTEST
PHOTO CREDIT

00
December 2014/
83
December 2014/
January 2015
83
January 2015
 SECOND
PLACE

A
STORM IN COLORADO . A vanishing lake in Austria. A volcano erupting well a human emotions in their intensities
in Ecuador. More than 18,000 photographers from 96 nations submitted and extremes. In this photo she wanted to
images of these and other extraordinary scenes to Travelers 2014 Photo show the couples bottled-up excitement
Contestconfirmation of what photographer Steve McCurry says: Sometimes a at being alone finally. The mother of the
scene requires the camera to linger until the moment enters the frame. groom half-waves farewell and half-salutes
a future life of happiness.
FIRST PLACE best places at the right time, get those Prize: A five-day National Geographic
interesting moments, and share them. Photo Workshop in Santa Fe, New Mexico
I N D E P E N D E N C E D AY Prize: An eight-day National Geographic
M A R KO KO R O E C Expedition to Alaskas Inside Passage THIRD PLACE
Slovenian meteorologist and storm chaser for two
Marko Koroec photographed a brewing D I V E R I N A M A G I C K I N G D O M
storm (opening pages) near Julesburg, M A R C H E N AU E R
SECOND PLACE
Colorado, on the evening of May 28, 2013. Every spring, Grner See, or Green Lake
It reminded me of a scene in the movie F I R S T T I M E (opposite, top), grows tenfold when snow-
Independence Day. A tornado warning had AGNIESZKA TRACZEWSKA melt floods its basin in Tragss, Austria,
been issued, but, Koroec says, the storm Photographer Agnieszka Traczewska was at covering trees and hiking trails. Upon hear-
never did produce one, just large hail and a wedding in Jerusalem when she snapped ing about the ephemeral lake, popular with
occasional funnel clouds. What impressed her shot of the bride and groom (above). area divers, Swiss policeman Marc Henauer
me about this formation was the beauty of The grooms mother is leaving so that the wanted to dive it with his girlfriend, Isabel.
its structure. The road and retreating car two can be alone for the first time, she He got his shot, featuring Isabel, on our
add a sense of the storms scale as well says, adding that the couple had met only final day, when sunshine lit the scene and
as a human element. Koroec works for once, for 30 minutes, before she captured the trees leaves were visible. I love it
Slovenias Road Weather Information this scene. For five years, Traczewska has because people think its not real. Whats
System and has photographed weather traveled to Israel from her home in Poland next? A trip to the Pacific island of Tonga.
events for almost 20 years. Ive chased to photograph Orthodox Ashkenazi com- Prize: A six-day cruise for two on a Maine
storms for 15. His goal? To be in the munities. I try to record their traditions, as windjammer schooner.

84
National reported by
Geographic Ingrid Ahlgren
Traveler
 THIRD
PLACE

MERIT AWARDS
The Sahara in Algeria (below) captivated E VA N CO L E , who lives in D U O W E N C H E N photographed medieval esk Krumlov (below),
Australia. Intent on the best composition, he knew he had his shot a town in the Czech Republic, on a vacation from his architectural
when his Tuareg guide lay down on the desert sand. It captures the design studies in Italy. As he ascended a winding road to visit the
color, pattern, and feel of the dunes, he says. My camera only had fortified castle that overlooks the town, Chen paused when he saw
a view screen, so shooting in bright sunlight was a challenge. Id take this panoramic scene. It had rained, and the town was suffused by
what I thought was a good shot and hope it would turn out. This did. light fog and mist, giving it a sense of mysteryand timelessness.

Merit winners receive a $200 gift certificate to B&H Photo, a matted framed print of the photograph entered
in the contest, and The Art of Travel Photography DVD course from National Geographic and The Great Courses.

85
December 2014/
January 2015
 SUSIE STERN is our first contest winner to shoot a photo with an iPhone. A painter in Atlanta, Stern was exiting Londons Borough Market
when someone exclaimed, A wedding party! Stern turned to see these women in dresses eating ice-cream cones. I walked by, my iPhone
ready. I had three seconds to get this shot, she says. When I looked at it later, I couldnt believe I captured the serendipity of the moment.

Boston University student S E A N H A C K E R T E P E R and some For their honeymoon, South African B Y R O N I N G G S and his wife
friends were in Baos, Ecuador, where theyd heard about a local chose a three-day horseback ride through Sehlabathebe National
attraction: the End of the World swing. As they took turns on the Park, in neighboring Lesotho. One day, after we dismounted, our
swing, Tungurahua volcano started fuming. We were unaware horses celebrated by rolling on their backs, Inggs says. Since he was
Tungurahua was even active, Teper says. Then it began to erupt as using a wide-angle lens, he had to get close to this horse to make
the sun was setting. The combination of the swing, the lighting, and this shot. Knowing the horse was moving a lot, I was concerned
the volcano made for an unforgettable moment for all of us. about getting a hoof to my body. Luckily, I instead grabbed this.

86
National
Geographic
Traveler
MAHESH BALASUBRAMANIAN,
a software professional in India, was
at a festival in a Tamil Nadu village
when he saw this boy (right) having
makeup applied to resemble Kali, the
Hindu goddess of time and death. I
was intrigued by the innocence of his
face, says Balasubramanian, paired
with the deep blue and red paint.

It was in the Burmese temple city of

Old Bagan (below) that Brazil-born
photographer M A R C E L O C A S T R O
came upon this moment in a pagoda.
I loved the sunbeams illuminating the
young monk. When he opened the
book, reflecting the light onto his face,
I took some shots. This was the winner.

View more contest entries in

ON THE
our online photo galleries at
WEB
traveler.nationalgeographic.com.

87
December 2014/
January 2015
 Cross-Country Road Trip It doesnt take long for my father to chat Texas Centennial Exposition. Crowds
Continued from page 61 up the Duchess of Prosperity, regaling still flock to the Centennial fairgrounds
her with tales about our journey. Then for the annual Texas State Fair, but when
Illinois Monument, topped by a small, we stuff ourselves with bratwurst and we stop in on a quiet Sunday, there is
domed pantheon in which even hushed sauerkraut from the local boosters at the hardly a soul to be seen. We stroll by
voices reverberate. Dad startles me with Civitan trailer, marveling at Mindens dry fountains and take in the audacious
an irreverent yawp, to see how long the cultural mash-up. art deco architecture of the park, with
sound persists. We spend hours at the Im lucky to see my parents twice a its machine age statuary and moderne
park but see only a fraction of its statues year, usually at their home in Phoenix, murals depicting heroic strides in art,
and markers. The triumphant bronzes where I was raised, or Washington, D.C., science, and society. The commotion of
that populate the Northern lines where where I live. The visits tend to be hectic, the 36 exposition tired my grandmother,
Union troops arrayed themselvessuch filled with activities and not geared to but she rallied to stand in line so they
as the Minnesota Memorials serene leisurely conversations. But out here, on could write their names in the massive
goddess of peacegive way to restrained the road, the talk flows as Dad shares visitors tome, The Golden Book of Texas,
memorials to Southern forces. story after story from his life: How as a on page 5,154, column 5, line 95.
We come into Minden, Louisiana, on boy he got in trouble for eating canned Heading west out of Dallas, what is
U.S. Route 80, which wants to bring us beans with hobos who were camped by left of U.S. Route 80 becomes strips and
to the center of Main Street. But vendor the creek. How, during World War II, snippets of access roads running parallel
tents block the way. We catch the strains German prisoners of war from nearby to Interstate 20. We give in and join the
of an oompah band competing with the Camp Papago Park would march past interstate traffic, crowded by semitrailer
calliope racket of a carnival midway, and his Phoenix home on their way to work trucks that are piled high with oil-rig
decide to park. Minden was settled by in local fields. How the hedge in front of piping. After a little while, we decide to
German immigrants, and weve stumbled the old post office in downtown Phoenix escape to the narrow rural roads of West
onto what looks like a Fasching festival. was planted by my grandfather. Texas. Tumbleweeds spill from the vast
However, this being Louisiana, it also When my father and grandparents Chihuahuan Desert, an expanse empty
celebrates Mardi Gras. We spot a local made it to Dallas, they had trouble find- except for the many workers who are
Mardi Gras krewe decked outwomen ing even a basic tourist court: The town tending the tireless oil derricks of the
and menin studded, sequined tailcoats. was filled with people visiting the 1936 present-day petroleum boom.

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 have chosen, now restored to its original room. Lester got a job in his orchestra.
charm with hardwood floors and a cedar They found a house in the desert, one
ceiling by owners Randall and Belinda of the well-ventilated half-canvas affairs
Kinzie, who have done much of the res- recommended for lungers, the unkind
toration. My father has to duck his head term coined for tuberculosis refugees.
not to hit our cabins low doorway. With their cross-country odyssey ended,
I didnt have to worry about that last and with grandmothers health failing,
time, when I was six, he says, laughing. her journal gradually trails off. The dry
The next morning were up early and Arizona desert proved to be no cure:
off to El Paso, where, my grandmother Lorrie lived only 20 more months.
Felten father, son, and childhood bunny notes, the family took a jaunt across the I turn and look at my father as we roll
border to Jurez. Very disappointing, toward Phoenix. To reach the city, he and
South of Pecos, we put the dust of oil she writes of what at the time was a his parents, in the family Chevy, had to
fields behind us and climb into the Davis thriving tourist trap. billy-goat their way along a mountain
mountains. Stands of gold-leaved cotton- Dad decides we should press on to road outside the mining town of Globe.
woods frame craggy bluffs. Pulling into Phoenix, our end point, cruising the six I confess to some nervousness, my
historic Fort Davis, an Old West cross- hours across New Mexico. As the land- grandmother penned of the harrowing
road, we find what for thousands of miles scape of buttes and basins unfolds, I route. Little Les cried all the way up.
has eluded usan honest-to-goodness think of how alien this drive through the The road has long since been replaced
tourist court, the Stone Village Tourist desert Southwest must have seemed to by a modern highwayand as we hurtle
Camp. My father and I are giddy to be my New Jersey grandparents. Now that down into the valley, my dad is smiling.
standing in front of this missing piece same terrain, so familiar to me, is the
of our journey. The compound, built in sign that were almost home. Phoenix is E R I C F E LT E N leads the Eric Felten Jazz
1935 with rocks, adobe, and logs, includes where my grandfather would find work Orchestra, which performs songs from
nine rooms in cabins, separated by old playing the trombone. the 1930s and 40s; he plays trombone,
carports that have been converted into By good luck, Grandma Lorrie says taught to him by his grandfather Lester.
screened camp rooms. We take a cabin, on a page late in her journal, we met Contributing photographer A A R O N
which is what my grandparents would Clyde Lockwood of the Riverside Ball- H U E Y walked across America in 2002.

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96 To advertise in TRAVELER , contact Laura Robertson at 212-610-5555 or larobert@ngs.org.

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 2/AKIRA KAEDE/OCEAN/CORBIS (ROOM), BETTMANN/CORBIS (MEN), KEVIN CLOGSTOUN/GETTY IMAGES (RIVER), PHOTOGGIN/ISTOCKPHOTO (BANANAS), CATARINA BELOVA/
SHUTTERSTOCK (BOATS), DANEGER/ISTOCKPHOTO (DOG), DAN ROSEN (MONKS), KUES/SHUTTERSTOCK (DISH), NORBERT WU/MINDEN PICTURES/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC CREATIVE (FISH)

98

Traveler
National
Geographic
QUIZ

7
J A PA NE SE H O M E S.

MOST?
NAME THE PAPER SCREENS

4
T H AT A RE ROO M D IV ID E R S IN

DOT THE LANDSCAPE OF WHAT

INDIA IS THE
MADE FROM BAMBOO AND KOZO

SOME 2,000 BUDDHIST TEMPLES

EXPORTS THE

REGION IN CENTRAL MYANMAR?

WHAT NATION
ING PRODUCER
WORLDS LEAD-
1
OF BANANAS, BUT

8
2

CA L L E D GUAN ABARA?

DISH?
COOKING
EARTHENWARE

NAME TO WHAT
THE CASSOLE, AN

HEARTY FRENCH
VESSEL, GIVES ITS
By GEORGE W. STONE

GREW UP IN OHIO, BUT

THE WRIGHT BROTHERS

WHAT NEW NAME TO A BAY LOCALLY

WHICH STATE CLAIMS IT IS

IN 1502, PORTUGUESE EXPLORERS GAVE

THE BIRTHPLACE OF FLIGHT?
Test Your Travel IQ

OF THE ADRIATIC SEA?

9
THE DALMATIAN DOG BREED IS
WHICH E. M. FORSTER NOVEL?

WHICH COUNTRY BOASTS THE

3

WORLDS L ARGEST SANCTUARY

NAMED FOR A REGION OF WHAT

F O R EN DAN G ERED M AN TA RAYS?

NATION ON THE EASTERN COAST
A FLORENCE HOTEL ON THE ARNO

6
RIVER SERVES AS THE SETTING FOR

ANSWERS 1. shoji 2. North Carolina 3. A Room With a View 4. Ecuador 5. Rio de Janeiro 6. Croatia 7. Bagan 8. cassoulet 9. Indonesia
Volume XXXI, Number 8. National Geographic Traveler (ISSN 0747-0932) is published eight times a year (February, April, May, June, August, October, November, December) by the National Geographic Society, 1145 17th St. N.W., Washington, DC 20036. $19.95 a year, $4.99
a copy. Periodicals postage paid at Washington, D.C., and at additional mailing offices. SUBSCRIBER: If the Postal Service alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within two years. POSTMASTER:
Send address changes to National Geographic Traveler, P.O. Box 62134, Tampa, FL 33662-2134. In Canada, agreement number 40063649, return undeliverable Canadian addresses to National Geographic Traveler, P.O. Box 4412 STA A, Toronto, Ontario M5W 3W2. We
occasionally make our subscriber names available to companies whose products or services might be of interest to you. If you prefer not to be included, you may request that your name be removed from promotional lists by calling 1-800-NGS-LINE (647-5463). To
prevent your name from being made available to all direct mail companies, contact: Mail Preference Service, c/o Direct Marketing Association, P.O. Box 9008, Farmingdale, NY 11735-9008. Printed in the U.S.A.
 LEAP INTO OUR WORLD.

INCREDIBLE PLACES. ENGAGING EXPERTS. UNFORGETTABLE TRIPS.

Travel the world with National Geographic experts: Arctic Norway Galpagos Tanzania Alaska and many more!
Call toll-free 1-888-966-8687 or visit ngexpeditions.com/trips
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