National Geographic Traveller UK Experiences 2017
National Geographic Traveller UK Experiences 2017
National Geographic Traveller UK Experiences 2017
Experiences
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Contents
IMAGE: GETTY
Experiences 2017 3
Editorial Director: Maria Pieri Contributing Editors:
Editor: Pat Riddell Jo Fletcher-Cross, Zane Henry,
Deputy Editor: Glen Mutel Sam Lewis, Farida Zeynalova
Senior Editor: Stephanie Cavagnaro Editorial Assistant:
Associate Editor: Sarah Barrell Connor McGovern
Assistant Editors: Amelia Duggan, Sub Editors: Lorraine Grifths,
Editors
Tamsin Wressell Ben Murray
Digital Development Manager: Designers: Gabriella Finney,
Seamus McDermott Lauren Gamp, Philip Lay
Production Controllers:
letter
Online Editor: Josephine Price
Head of Subs: Hannah Doherty Maia Abrahams, Joaquim Pereira,
Sub Editors: Chris Horton, Lisa Poston, Joanne Roberts,
Charlotte Wigram-Evans Anthony Wright
Project Manager: Natalie Jackson APL Business Development Team:
T
Group Art Editor: Chris Hudson Neil Bhullar, Chris Dalton,
Senior Designer: Lauren Atkinson-Smith Cynthia Lawrence, Sinead McManus
Lead Designer: Daniel Almeroth
Production Manager: Daniel Gregory Chief Executive: Anthony Leyens here was a time when our travel
Special Projects Consultant: Managing Director:
Matthew Midworth Matthew Jackson expectations were simple a bit of
National Geographic Traveller Business Sales Director: Alex Vignali
Development Team:
William Allen, Bob Jalaf, Adam Fox,
Sales Administrator:
Elizabeth Scott
rest and relaxation, a brief glimpse of
Kevin Killen, Glyn Morgan, Adam Phillips,
Mark Salmon, John Stergides, Jon Stone
Executive Assistant:
Taylah Brooke another culture or simply a break from
Head of National Geographic Traveller Financial Controller: Ryan McShaw
The Collection: Credit Manager: Craig Chappell keeping your own house. But as the decades
Danny Pegg Accounts Manager: Siobhan Grover
Accounts Assistant: Jana Abraham
have rolled by, our options and ambitions
have blossomed, and today your average
National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Limited,
Unit 310, Highgate Studios, 53-79 Highgate Road, London NW5 1TL.
traveller expects a great deal more.
For many, its no longer enough to be a
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National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Ltd under license from
National Geographic Partners, LLC. Their entire contents are protected by copyright 2017 soak it up. These days, people want
and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without prior permission is forbidden. Every
care is taken in compiling the contents of the magazine, but the publishers assume no experiences to do something that sounds
responsibility in the effect arising therefrom. Readers are advised to seek professional
advice before acting on any information which is contained in the magazine. Neither
APL Media Ltd or National Geographic Traveller magazine accept any liability for views
impressive, will stand out in the memory and
expressed, pictures used or claims made by advertisers.
will simultaneously scratch several
long-held itches. This could mean learning a
new skill, testing yourself physically in a new
National Geographic Traveler (US) Mary Beth Oelkers-Keegan, environment or simply being in the presence
Ann Marie Pelish, Brett Weisband
Editor-in-Chief, Travel Media: Communications Vice President: of something truly remarkable.
George W. Stone Heather Wyatt
Publisher & Vice President, Global
Media: Kimberly Connaghan
Communications Director: Meg Calnan
Senior Vice President, International
In this guide weve got it all covered, from
Digital Director: Andrea Leitch Media: Yulia P. Boyle
Design Director: Marianne Seregi Director, International Magazine chasing tree frogs in Colombia and walking
Director of Photography: Publishing: Ariel Deiaco-Lohr
Anne Farrar through an Icelandic glacier to freediving
Editorial Projects Director: National Geographic Society
Andrew Nelson
Senior Editor: Jayne Wise President & CEO: Gary E. Knell
with the sharks and rays of Komodo Island.
Features Editor: Amy Alipio Board of Trustees Chairman:
Associate Editor: Hannah Sheinberg Jean N. Case Travel has always been an experience
Editor/Producer: Christine Blau Vice Chairman: Tracy R. Wolstencroft
Producers: Mary McGrory, nows the time to have one of your own!
Lindsay Smith National Geographic Partners
Associate Producer: Caity Garvey
Editor, Adventure: Mary Anne Potts CEO: Declan Moore
Deputy Art Director: Editorial Director: Susan Goldberg
Leigh V. Borghesani Chief Financial Ofcer: Marcela Martin GLEN MUTEL, EDITOR
Senior Photo Producer: Sarah Polger Global Networks CEO:
Associate Photo Producers: Courteney Monroe
Jeff Heimsath, Jess Mandia Chief Communications Ofcer:
Associate Photo Editor: Laura Nichols @glenmutel
Laura Emmons Legal & Business Affairs: Jeff Schneider
Chief Researcher: Marilyn Terrell Chief Technology Ofcer:
Production Director: Kathie Gartrell Jonathan Young
Executive Assistant: Alexandra E. Petri Digital Product: Rachel Webber
Editorial Assistant: Gulnaz Khan Consumer Products & Experiences:
Copy Editors: Preeti Aroon, Rosa Zeegers
Liane DiStefano, Emily Shenk Flory, Board of Directors Chairman:
Nancy Gupton, Cindy Leitner, Gary E. Knell
Experiences 2017 5
Journeys
Journeys E-mail:
E-mail:
Tel:Tel:
++264
++264
61 228
61 228
reservations@journeysnamibia.com
104104
reservations@journeysnamibia.com
Web:
Web:
www.journeysnamibia.com
www.journeysnamibia.com
O F F EORFI N
F EGR I N G Q UQ
I NUTI ENSTSEESNS TE INATLI A L A DV
A EDV
N TE U
NRTE
USR E S
SHIPWRECK
SHIPWRECK
LODGE
LODGE
HOBATERE
HOBATERE
LODGE
LODGE
HOADA
HOADA
CAMPSITE
CAMPSITE
GROOTBERG
GROOTBERG
LODGE
LODGE Traveling
Traveling
amid
amid
Namibia`s
Namibia`s
untamed
untamedbeauty
beauty
youyou
cancan
findfind
respite
respite
in the
in the
luxurious
luxurious
comforts
comforts
andand
excellent
excellent
service
service
at Journeys
at Journeys
Namibia
Namibia
runrunlodges.
lodges.
Journeys
Journeys
Namibia
Namibiaoperates
operates
lodges
lodges
thatthat
are are
perfectly
perfectly
positioned
positioned
to create
to create
an an
DESERT
DESERT
BREEZE
BREEZE
SWAKOPMUND
SWAKOPMUND
unforgettable
unforgettable
journey
journey
around
aroundthethe
country,
country,
visiting
visiting
these
these
tourism
tourism
hothot
spots.
spots.
THETHE STILTZ AUAS
STILTZ AUAS
SAFARI
SAFARI
LODGE
LODGE
Trust
Trust
Journeys
Journeys
Namibia
Namibiato show
to show
youyouthethe
bestbest
parts
parts
of our
of our
beautiful
beautiful
country.
country.
From
From
a unique
a unique
viewview
of the
of the
FishFish
River
River
Canyon,
Canyon,
a sundowner
a sundowner
overlooking
overlooking
thethe
Auas
Auas
Mountains,
Mountains, tracking
tracking
thethe
desert
desert
elephants
elephants
at at
Grootberg
Grootberg
lodge
lodge
or spotting
or spotting
a lion
a lion
fromfrom
thethe
patio
patio
at the
at the
untamed
untamed
Hobatere
Hobatere lodge.
lodge.
Your
Your
unique
unique
journey
journey
is just
is just
a click
a click
away.
away.
FISH
FISH
RIVER
RIVER
LODGE
LODGE
www.auas-safarilodge.com
www.auas-safarilodge.com
www.fishriverlodge-namibia.com
www.fishriverlodge-namibia.com
www.grootberg.com
www.grootberg.com
www.grootberg.com/hoada-campsite
www.grootberg.com/hoada-campsite
www.hobatere-lodge.com
www.hobatere-lodge.com
EDITORS PICKS
U N F O R G E T TA B L E
From teary group hugs on the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro
to a breathtaking flight above Victoria Falls, our team recall
the memorable experiences that shook their worlds
per person. Price includes all Eastern & Oriental Express from night Petra & Wadi Rum Trek from
flights, excursions and most meals. 2,066 per person. belmond.com 1,339 per person. exodus.co.uk
journeylatinamerica.co.uk NEXT: An expedition to Antarctica NEXT: Ascending the Andes to the
NEXT: The Pyramids of Giza. to explore this icy, isolated world. Inca citadel of Machu Picchu.
Experiences 2017 7
EDITORS PICKS
excluding flights. intrepidtravel.com project in the Tien Shan mountains, NEXT: Hot air ballooning in the
NEXT: A long-distance kayaking and Kyrgyzstan. biosphere-expeditions.org Atacama Desert, for a chance to
camping trip along a remote stretch NEXT: Overland, west to east across enjoy one of the most magnificent
of water in New Zealand or Canada. Russia, to the Kamchatka Peninsula. views in the world.
8 natgeotraveller.co.uk
ExplorE thE worlds
largEst icE cavE
Unique, gigantic and one of Salzburgs
most popular attractions for many decades
Castaway
training in Belize
Ever wondered how youd
cope as a castaway? Now
you can find out, and train
for it. Over 10 days on an
island in Belizes Cayes youll
learn skills such as turning
sea water into freshwater,
lighting fires and building a
shelter. bushmasters.co.uk
SALSA IN COLOMBIA
Fancy perfecting your moves Fire-spinning in Miami
somewhere exotic? Try the Colombian How about a night with Miamis
city of Cali, which is full of salsa clubs, fire-spinners? One of Airbnbs new
although your best bet is a lesson with a experiences, it introduces newbies
local expert at the SalsaPura academy, to the art with one-on-one guidance
Par 1
where youll learn basic steps before from a pro. As well as meeting the
hitting the citys dancefloors. masters, youll learn tricks for a final
facebook.com/bailandosalsapura photoshoot just you and your
LEARNING
trusty spinning spear of fire.
airbnb.co.uk/experiences
Experiences 2017 11
INSPIRED BY THE DOLOMITES
The impressive peaks of the South Tyrolean Dolomites, Ladin culture and traditions, scenery like sculptures hewn
out of stone and in the midst of it all a surprisingly different, exclusive holiday retreat. A felicitous blend of age-
old culture and modernity, picturesque and heart-warming. A hideaway that allows you to set your own pace.
In our stylish and elegant breakfast rooms our Stuben we put a lot of passion into serving a rich
selection of home-made comfitures, a variety of organic breads, genuine cheeses and charcuterie,
as well as selected specialties from certified regional and organic producers.
Lush alpine pastures, woods and a panorama of breath-taking peaks: Summer in the Dolomites. The
fascination of the bare mountains attracts hikers, mountaineers and bikers from all over the world.
LAGACI HOTEL MOUNTAIN RESIDENCE | MICUR DE R 48 | 39036 SAN CASSIANO | DOLOMITES | ITALY
PHONE +39 0471 849503 | MAIL INFO@LAGACIO.COM
WWW.LAGACIO.COM
LEARNING CURVE
GNOCCHI: These small potato dumplings styles and using kit such as
large) filled shapes, and sweet deep-fried cannoli.
are made in a similar way to pasta, but machines and cutters. Includes Im exhausted perhaps Im not quite cut out for
with mashed potatoes in the dough. Make a two-course meal and a glass the life of a chef. But I do now have a pasta machine
little balls, boil lightly then fry in butter. of wine. tantemarie.co.uk in my kitchen. And I might even use it.
Experiences 2017 13
LEARNING CURVE
Take
a
deep
breath...
14 natgeotraveller.co.uk
LEARNING CURVE
The kaleidoscopic depths off the is to stay at the surface for at least a
coast of Indonesias Komodo island couple of minutes, breathing steadily
are the perfect place to master the and deeply, before turning down and
tricky art of freediving. Just dont propelling yourself into the abyss with
get too distracted by the sharks slow but mighty fin-kicks.
Words: Jamie Lafferty The theory sounds simple enough,
but this is one of the most unnatural
Dont trust your eyes thats one of the pastimes a person can pursue after
main messages when youre learning all, were capable of drowning in just a
to freedive. Especially dont trust few centimetres of water. Initially,
them when youre ascending. I struggle to relax sufficiently,
If you see the surface, your
body will start to want air, n ie forget to equalise my airways
(something scuba and
youll kick faster and use Breathe deep freedivers have in common),
oxygen quicker. Then theres and dive and obsess about the
more chance of syncope. down unimpressive readings on my
So says Boum Senous, my dive watch. As a result, each
freediving instructor. The Belgian time I return to the surface Im
knows what hes talking about its both breathless and annoyed.
happened to him twice but syncope is But Komodo is one of the worlds great
a new word to me. Like passing out, he aquatic safari parks. Every time I get into
explains. Underwater. the water, Im surrounded by hundreds
The next question, naturally, is of sea creatures, from bluefin tuna and
whats the difference between that banded sea snakes to moray eels and
and drowning? Whats the difference poisonous lionfish.
between freediving and drowning for A few days and dozens of dives in, the
that matter? Plenty, I hope. Im on board abundance of these remarkable animals
the good ship Tiger Blue in the vibrant starts to help with the diving. The more
waters of Indonesias Komodo National distractions I have, the more I forget
Park for a week. And while we spend about oxygen meaning I can dive for
an afternoon with the eponymous longer, and get deeper.
dragons, most of the time is spent in It all comes together at Crystal Rock,
the water. Armed with nothing more one of Komodos most popular diving
than a mask, snorkel, flippers, and dive and snorkelling sites. Little more than a
watch, Im aiming, as instructed, to dive rocky nubbin above the water, below it
to an unlikely sounding 15 metres the appears like a celestial aquarium feature:
equivalent of swimming from the roof a volcanic cone around which a vast
of a five-storey building to ground level array of fish rotate in a semi-civilised
with only the air in my lungs to fashion, reminiscent of cars
sustain me. around the Arc de Triomphe.
Freediving is really only for My goal this time isnt a fish,
those who are comfortable in though, but a man Boum, whos
HIGH
the water. Thats doubly true in Ascending
down below, leading a group of
seas this abundant with life. You through a giant the Tiger Blues scuba divers. I
need to be sure you wont freak ball of iridescent charge my lungs, pike, and kick,
out at the sight of a whitetip fusilier fish kick, kick, equalising every
reef shark when youre at your few metres until Ive reached
maximum depth, or if the water the Belgian. He offers me a fist
above is darkened by a manta bump, showing me that his dive
ray the size of a car. Both of watch reads 16 metres. I allow
LOW
these things happen during my The early dives, myself a little grin, before floating
week, but Boums instructions when I was short back skywards, doing my very
couldnt be clearer: what of experience best not to glance at that great,
youre seeking isnt so much a and breath shimmering mirror above.
competitive spirit, more a kind
of underwater Zen.
LIVEABOARD TIGER BLUE sails Indonesias Raja Ampat
Boum teaches me broadly the and Komodo National Park. Scuba, snorkelling and
same techniques as those used by freediving are available. Seven nights in a twin room costs
Lionfish, Komodo sperm whales, the deepest-diving from $6,800 (5,300), sailing from Labuan Bajo price
National Park creatures on the planet. The idea excludes flights. tigerblue.info
Experiences 2017 15
BARCELONA
www.castlexperience.com
LEARNING CURVE
Hablas
learning vocabulary and new tenses.
We all responded well to Lolas energy,
bringing our own interests to the class.
Exercises focusing on Spanish recipes
or dining habits could often turn into
debates about politics or someones
quirky hobby. That said, by the end of
the week I felt confident I could hold a
conversation about gastronomy an
invaluable skill for travelling in any
Spanish-speaking country.
E S PA N O L?
studiousness by booking into Nakar
Hotel, so my pre-class ritual consisted
of a dip in the boutique property's
rooftop pool followed by fruit salad
on the terrace restaurant, looking out
If school Spanish lessons left you cold, towards the steeples and buttresses of
pack a bag, head to Spain and start La Seu, Palmas sensational bay-side
learning with the locals cathedral. Class began at 9.30am, and
ran until 1.30pm, with a halft ime coffee
Words: Amelia Duggan break. Afternoons were generally spent
wandering the labyrinthine lanes of
the former Arab and Jewish quarters
or visiting the citys art museums.
Evenings were devoted to sampling
Majorcas famous food and wine.
Experiences 2017 17
Spanish bar-
restaurant serving
tapas and other
traditional dishes
Until then, at least it's in your notebook. Monarch flies to Majorca from Birmingham,
de trampo, the regions famous spiced- Gatwick, Luton, Leeds Bradford and
pork sobrasada, and the sugar-dusted Manchester, from 68 return. monarch.co.uk
ensamada pastry, bought at Can Joan MORE INFO: visitpalma.es/en
18 natgeotraveller.co.uk
WWW.CARVOEIROCAVES.COM
A GENTLE LOOK AT
THIS PORTUGUESE
2016
CERTIFICATE of
EXCELLENCE
PARADISE
BREATHTAKING CAVES AND DESERTED
Carvoeirocaves
carvoeirocaves
BEACHES IN CARVOEIRO, ALGARVE
grutascarvoeirocaves GPS: N37.095177o,W8.471124o
LEARNING CURVE
squeaky
cheese
THE
CHALLENGE
n ie
Head to the hills of Cyprus, home of halloumi, As we take turns stirring the Cheesy fun
the islands famous squeaky cheese delicious whey with a wooden oar looking in the sun
to eat and fun to make. Words: James Draven comical in hairnets and aprons Mrs
Sofias husband pours out crystal-clear
In the cute village of Letymbou, just a short drive refreshments with a modest smile. This
from Paphos, Mrs Sofia makes halloumi in her leafy soon turns to laughter as we down his homemade
back garden. Its quintessentially Cypriot, and while firewater then double over with throats ablaze and
Ive long enjoyed this weird cheese that you can grill eyes streaming. The industrial-strength alcohol does
like meat thats salty and chewy and little to quench my thirst, although a
squeaks between your teeth Ive few of us go back for seconds, while our
never eaten it while its still warm. To host wipes tears of mirth from his eyes.
do that, you have to make it yourself. The halloumi is barely recognisable
In a deep pan, big enough for a small as we press it into the shape of chubby
adult to crouch in, Mrs Sofia helps a ice-hockey pucks, which make it look
small group of us to gradually bring a like Camembert, and poach them in
mixture of ewes and goats milk up to the remaining whey, now sweltering
around 36C, which isnt too difficult in at 85C. Its only when theyre cooked
the blazing sunshine. and we add the trademark mint leaves,
As we add rennet (vegetarian, on my fold them in half and slice them into
account), the mixture starts to solidify, chunks, that they become familiar.
so we break and head to the kitchen Halloumi tastes so much better from
for a quick bread-making masterclass. Mrs Sofias chopping boards when its
By the time weve rolled and pounded still warm but not nearly as squeaky or
our dough, embossed it with a rustic salty as the supermarket variety.
woodblock print and set it in the oven, And I wash it down with one more sly
IMAGES: GETTY; JAMES DRAVEN
Experiences 2017 21
COME TO YOUR SENSES
Go veggie in Thailand
IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY; JEFF BANKE WORDS: HELEN WARWICK & NICOLA TRUP
Par 2
breeze at your ankles Dress up for one of the unruliest
as you eat and watch parties on the planet, the Salvador
the city sway beneath Carnival, where currents of
COME TO
you between courses. hedonism swirl through the
Its a top-notch dining streets. Less commercial than
YOUR SENSES
experience that will in Rio, its fuelled by potent
make for some very caipirinhas, booming music
envy-inducing photos trucks, the sound of steel
dinnerinthesky.be/en drums and a raucous crowd in
Whether dining while tiny outfits. visitbrasil.com
Experiences 2017 23
COME TO YOUR SENSES
24 natgeotraveller.co.uk
COME TO YOUR SENSES
comfort
SOUTHERN
With the tinkling of piano keys floating
on the air like the aromas of their
hearty cuisine, a trip to Nashville,
Memphis and New Orleans stimulates
the senses. Words: Josephine Price
Experiences 2017 25
COME TO YOUR SENSES
26 natgeotraveller.co.uk
COME TO YOUR SENSES
plastic plate with fries and a hunk of throwaway phrase was hugely in kitchens and in basement
bread. I tear the bones apart and the significant in a region blighted HIGH bars. Beale Street seems the
pink stringy flesh falls away. by segregation. The sobering Live music. only spot where Memphis is
Im carving myself out a rib trail of National Civil Rights Museum, Everywhere keen to show off, and when
the city you cant come to Memphis the Martin Luther King I head back to this neon
and not go for barbecue. Central BBQ memorial at the Lorraine Motel wonderland I slip into Mr
goes for the pit-smoked version, while and various Trump billboards Handys Blues Hall and join
the Bar-B-Q Shop in Midtown promises speak of both the regions LOW the nightly dance-till-dawn
the Best in Memphis with its signature chequered past and its Great food, but that Ive quickly become
sauce. Inviting interaction, Southern uncertain future. The music, not much veg accustomed to in the South.
Experiences 2017 27
COME TO YOUR SENSES
New Orleans:
Good times and gumbo
Its New Awlins. Not New Or-leans,
says Richard, a Southern gent in a
bowtie. Elderly, suited men like him
take the South very seriously. Its food,
its music, its traditions, and its sense
of chivalry, too I find them holding
open doors and imparting restaurant
recommendations wherever I go.
New Orleans oozes this type of faded
charm, from the steamboat cruisers to
the Palladian mansions that line the
grand avenue of St Charles Street.
Whispers of voodoo and the lure of the
bayous echo around, but nothing shouts
as loud as the citys party vibe that
permeates everything. All along the
wide avenues, kaleidoscopic beads
left over from the Mardi Gras
celebrations dangle down from the
cypress trees, mixing with the etheral
Spanish moss; like a plastic homage to
the citys good-time spirit.
Armed with my latest dinner French Quarter,
recommendations, I head to the French New Orleans
Quarter and burst through the door
of Johnnys PoBoys as its about to
close. The worn-out vendors face is
impatient, contorting as I bombard the city. They waft through the streets
him with questions about the infamous in much the same way as the music
sandwiches. I scan the list there are tinkles out from the bars.
over 30 to choose from. Crocodile Theres music everywhere in New
catches my eye for a moment, but Orleans. And theres no escaping it.
I end up opting for the classic: fried Even during a quiet moment while Im
shrimp. I wolf down this mass of browsing in Arcadian Books and Prints,
calories, doused in hot sauce, a face suddenly pops up from behind
Southern-style, at table with a gingham a heap of French books. Theres a free
tablecloth, sticky from the days diners. gospel performance at St Louis
A little while later Im at the New Cathedral tonight, the owner says. The
Orleans Cooking School watching trajetory of my evening is inescapably
Kevin Belton as he coaxes butter and clear and, having witnessed the gospel
flour into a roux mixture on a hot stove. choir fill the high-ceilinged cathedral
The key to any gumbo is the roux, he with their voices, Im then serenaded
says. Commit this smell to memory! LUXURY GOLDS nine-day Southern Grace again at supper at Arnauds.
I watch the fragrant smoke swirl up tour covers Nashville, Memphis, Natchez and I check out Bourbon Street, scamper
to the ceiling and catch my reflection New Orleans, and costs from 3,450 per person, over to its cooler little sister, Frenchman
in the mirror. My mouth is agape with based on a twin share. Includes return flights, Street, and sample almost everywhere
eight nights accommodation, breakfasts and
temptation, but Im in the right place: in between. Dishevelled and all danced
IMAGE: SUPERSTOCK
28 natgeotraveller.co.uk
Mask optional. Fun inevitable.
IMAGE: XXXXXXXXX; XXXXXXXXXXX
30 natgeotraveller.co.uk
COME TO YOUR SENSES
WHAT NEXT: Munduk on-one and group sessions at the Thermes Marins more health-focused but
Moding Plantation where you can choose the Monte-Carlo consider private sessions go deeper.
works with Ketut intensity. Four-night retreats your medical history From 14. facebook.com/
Suwitra, a real-deal from 940. breathguru.com and supervise you ceviarem.temazcal
healer specialising in to make sure you
internal issues. From dont faint. From 46.
28. mundukmoding thermesmarins
plantation.com montecarlo.com
Experiences 2017 31
CLOSE ENCOUNTERS
Par 3
CLOSE
ENCOUNTERS
Horseback safari in the Maasai
Go on a responsible
Mara? Snorkelling in Tonga 3 WAYS TO SEE
tiger safari in India with humpback whales? Theres WHALES
Tiger safaris are not all the no experience quite like a
same, and TOFTigers (toft igers. FROM THE SHORE: In
wildlife encounter
org) runs an eco-rating scheme to Hermanus, South Africa,
help you avoid the bad ones. One of migrating southern right
the best is Tiger Trails Jungle Lodge whales pass so close,
near Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve. you can whale-watch
Here, 20 sightings a day is the norm. without leaving dry land.
Treks and boat trips are available, but hermanuswhalefestival.co.za
the highlight is heading out in a small,
open-backed vehicle, senses primed for FROM A BOAT: In the Azores,
a cat to emerge. tigertrailstadoba.com head out on a small whale-
watching vessel for sightings
32 natgeotraveller.co.uk
CLOSE ENCOUNTERS
900
Wild Japan in Winter tour raises the bar
by celebrating an intriguing time of year. SWIM WITH TURTLES IN AUSTRALIA
As well as visiting Naganos famous hot- Supremely eco-friendly, Lady Elliot Tourism has helped
spring-loving macaques, youll search for Island offers total immersion in a remote critically endangered
Japanese cranes in Hokkaido. February ocean habitat at the southern tip of the mountain gorillas to
is the best month to see their graceful Great Barrier Reef. From the turtles who increase to almost this
courtship displays. naturetrek.co.uk swim up while youre snorkelling to the amount
35%
countless seabirds roosting in the trees,
the wildlife is so unfazed by humans, its
positively surreal. ladyelliot.com.au of the worlds mountain
gorillas are found in
Rwandas Volcanoes
Learn how to photograph National Park, at over
lemurs in Madagascar 2,000 metres.
19
Photographing lemurs can be tricky,
not least because they love to bounce
along at top speed, sometimes through baby gorillas were
dense thickets of spiny trees. Or else named in September
theyre nocturnal. As part of a trip 2016, during Rwandas
created by Natural World Safaris, expert last annual naming
photographers Shannon Wild and Russ ceremony.
0
MacLaughlin will help to shed light on
these thorny problems via seminars
and personal guidance. Departures in The number of captive
October. naturalworldsafaris.com mountain gorillas
(theyre prone to stress-
related illness).
80
Mara, offering two-hour rides and
multi-day safaris good any time,
but particular between August and The maximum number
October, when the Great Migration is in of tracking permits
full swing. greatplainsconservation.com (US$750/580)
issued daily.
60
Number of minutes
spent watching gorillas
on a two- to eight-hour
IMAGES: GETTY WORDS: EMMA GREGG
6
hand-built villas at Bisate
Lodge, the newest
pad near the park.
wilderness-safaris.com
Experiences 2017 33
CLOSE ENCOUNTERS
BLESS
For animal encounters there are
few places better than among the
birds and the beasts of Botswanas
Okavango Delta, when its
THE
floodwater pools are swollen after
ains
the rain. Words: Amelia Duggan
34 natgeotraveller.co.uk
CLOSE ENCOUNTERS
I
ts dusk and the wide African sky
is an empire of lustrous midnight
blue and ash grey clouds. Cumulus
castles upon cumulus mountains,
altostratus cities beside cirrus rivers.
Its soul-stirringly beautiful.
All along the horizon theres drama:
portals of bright sunlight punch
through the cloud canopy, turning
the glassy floodwater pools of the
Okavango Delta a rich gold; elsewhere,
gauzy veils indicate distant rain
showers. In the east, Venus is sparkling
under a crescent moon so crisp it could
have been cut with a Stanley knife.
Wildebeest and zebra are grazing all
around us in the bush. And against
the fading half-light, spindly acacia
trees stripped of bark by hungry
elephants are silhouetted, like
delicate ink drawings.
Im standing shoulder to shoulder
with Lena, a burly, middle-aged guide,
in awed silence a gin and tonic,
untouched, in my hand, a Coca-Cola,
forgotten, in his. It seems, for him, a
lifetime in the delta has done nothing to
dim its majesty.
Eventually, he breaks the silence
with his deep baritone: Thats why I
like the rainy season: no dust. Its so
fresh. I close my eyes. Theres the coo of
frogs; the zither of cicadas; the squawk
of a lone bird Lena, of course, could
name the species: these sounds are
as familiar to him as the voices of his
family. Right, he barks, pula! He
chinks our glasses, downs his in one
and nods toward the car. If youre going
to learn one word in Setswana (the local
language) its pula: it means cheers, its
the currency, and its the word for the
all-important, landscape-transforming,
life-giving, natural force: rain. Theres a
storm coming and its time to go.
Driving back to camp, Lena navigates
flooded roads, ploughing our jeep
through pools so deep the floodwater
spills into the vehicle and swirls under
my seat (Feet up!). When this first
happened, I thought wed go completely
IMAGE: SANCTUARY RETREATS
Experiences 2017 35
CLOSE ENCOUNTERS
The floodwaters came down early Lightning flashes across the horizon, with his dark brown eyes and I notice
this year, he tells me later, as we eat followed by a booming rumble. Pula, a white ring around his iris and the
dinner together. Were sitting out on he says, raising his glass. tapering of his long lashes. Id never
the deck of Baines Camp, a clutch of imagined this detail and complexity
luxury huts cantilevered out over a lily- PARTY OF THREE in an elephants physique. Go on, feel
bejewelled Boro River, our four-course The landscape has taken on fresh behind his ears, Sandi urges. Ears,
meal illuminated by hurricane lamps shades of green after the nights rain. Jabu! Ears! she coaxes. He obediently
and the Southern Cross. Flowers have sprouted overnight: theres flaps them open. Theres a handsome
The rains in Angola come down and a violet and yellow haze of petals among boy! I reach up and feel the network
spread out over 15,000sq km. He holds the reeds. Its like the vegetation has of thick, warm veins that help cool
his forearm up, spreading his fingers to taken a deep breath. his blood in the heat of high summer.
demonstrate the flow of the water into Im standing with a dozen travellers Im still resting my hand on his trunk,
northern Botswana, the light catching in a clearing. Its unusual to see so many feeling the movement of muscle and air
his thick silver wedding band and a other people out in the bush, away from as he snorts and snuffles, when Sandy
number of smooth scars. the camp. Safaris in Botswanas delta tells the group about the price on every
Lena comes from the Bayei tribe have a privacy and intimacy to them. elephants head.
who were among the first settlers of Ive not encountered another vehicle Theres a poaching crisis, the likes of
the delta, and the original craftsmen on a game drive: the space is just so which weve never seen. We lose around
of the mokoros (canoes) still used for large, and tourist numbers are carefully 30,000 African elephants every year.
water safaris. His village is today part- regulated. But this morning is an Im shocked to hear that the UK is the
owner of the concession operated by exception: our group is waiting for some second-largest market for ivory, after
Sanctuary Retreats, a 260,000-acre area special visitors. China. Standing here with Jabu, as his
on the southern edge of the Moremi I first glimpse them through adopted sisters graze peacefully nearby,
Game Reserve. binoculars: three elephants crossing the full horror of it is brought home.
none of the deltas wild elephants. Ah. hasnt even reached his full height with extraordinary hearing. He tells
I think all your elephant questions will yet. Were invited to place our hands us that his foundation aims to save
be answered tomorrow, he says, with a on his trunk and to feel the rough more elephants from captivity or from
knowing wink. ivory of his tusks. He looks right at me hunts, creating a cohesive herd that
36 natgeotraveller.co.uk
CLOSE ENCOUNTERS
Experiences 2017 37
CLOSE ENCOUNTERS
used to alert clan members up to three activities; return flights from Heathrow to Maun;
knowledge stretched little further than miles away about a food source. and internal flights/transportation. Based on
pigeon and robin. But within a few travel in November.
days I could point out the iridescent africaskysafari.com sanctuaryretreats.com
38 natgeotraveller.co.uk
CLOSE ENCOUNTERS
Poisoned C H A L I C E
Take a trek through the rainforests
of Colombias wild west to seek out the
worlds most formidable amphibian:
the poison dart frog. Words: James Draven
40 natgeotraveller.co.uk
CLOSE ENCOUNTERS
I
m deep in the jungles of Choc, his arms as if drawing back a curtain stilts and, as we take a similarly
Colombias Pacific Coast, South to reveal the dazzling blue Pacific ramshackle boat and follow the river
America, date irrelevant. When Ocean. The tides keep time for us. from the centre of Nuqu to the ocean,
youre standing in primary growth Theyre the only clock we need. When were stopped en route at an elevated
rainforest, precisely half as old as time the tide is in, its time to surf; when its army guardpost on the lookout for
itself, the Gregorian calendar suddenly out, its time to hike. narcotrafficantes drug traffickers.
has little importance. El Cantils accommodation is basic, From here its a straight shot down the
This is the sort of trek that makes any which only emphasises the wilderness rugged coast, zooming along beside
traveller feel worthy of Indiana Jones, atmosphere. Seven huts, lit at night by playful dolphins and, if youre here
and, like him, Im also on the trail of a oil lamps, with glassless portals for between June and October, breaching
rare and precious pre-Colombian icon. windows, sit in an arc around a tiny bay. humpback whales.
But, the treasure I seek isnt the gold so Electricity is only available in the lofty, Activities on offer range from
valued by Europeans since the days of domed dining hall. rainforest treks to kayaking, canoe
the 16th-century Conquistadors, nor is There are no roads leading to trips, stand-up paddle boarding
it jewellery or a precious sculpted idol. El Cantil. Out in the furthest and surfing, but the ultimate
Im in this remote rainforest on the trail reaches of Colombias wild, wild quest, graded as extreme in El
of a living, breathing icon. west, in a country that was, HIGH Cantils difficulty rankings, is
From here, its a three-hour hike back not so long ago, a no-go zone, The frog- the five-hour-plus hike to try to
to base, and then even travelling by there are seemingly no roads infested summit find the most poisonous animal
boat and then plane Im still the best at all; the only way to get here on Earth.
part of a day away from the nearest city. is by boat. A small plane has The poison dart frog gets its
IMAGES: GETTY; JAMES DRAVEN
Worryingly though, just one false move delivered us the short hop from name from its use by the
in the land of my prey, the poison dart urban Medellin to the Afro- indigenous Ember people who,
frog, and Ill be seconds from death. Not Colombian seaside community LOW for centuries, famously applied
At times, the mud
that Ill be able to count those seconds of Nuqu; its like landing on a its titular toxic secretions to
was so deep,
Take off your wristwatch, says different continent. The dense even my ankle- their blowpipe darts when
Meno, as guests arrive at his wilderness jungle is navigable only by high hiking boots hunting, long before the
eco-lodge, El Cantil in Choc. Youve no waterways overlooked by didnt keep my Spanish brought guns to South
need for it here, he insists, spreading shanty towns of shacks on socks dry America. There are several,
Experiences 2017 41
CLOSE ENCOUNTERS
42 natgeotraveller.co.uk
CLOSE ENCOUNTERS
Experiences 2017 43
PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
MEMORIES OF
THE ARCTIC I created a hardback keepsake
to remind me of this trip of a
Connor McGovern creates the perfect lifetime. Putting together a
I
nal design, check out and wait
t might be midday up here in this
for your CEWE PHOTOBOOK
wintry, Narnia-like landscape,
to arrive!
but I can feel the night creeping
in already. Over the hills, the winter
sun is sinking before its even had
the chance to rise, bathing this silent
group of islands in an intense amber
glow. The pristine snow cloaking the
mountains is stained an orangey-
pink from the sunlight, the sky is
slowly turning an intense shade
of violet, and the temperature is
steadily dropping. It all seems
beautifully strange.
Watch a volcano
erupt in Hawaii
Klauea, in Hawaii Volcanoes National
Park, on the Big Island, has been erupting
continuously since the 1980s. There are
several viewpoints from which you can
look into the crater, and onto the black
landscape of the lava fields. nps.gov/havo
Sleep beneath
the stars in Uluru
Par 4
Pitch up in the shadow of Uluru for a
night like no other. Swap tales besides
the fire and trace constellations
BEING
during a night cocooned in a
swag bag beneath the stars.
THERE
ulurutoursaustralia.com.au
CASTAWAY ON
Whether its an erupting THE SAN BLAS ISLANDS
Discover the Grand volcano or a hidden waterfall, Its not easy to reach these off-
Canyons secret the-radar Panamanian islands.
Heres something you might not
some experiences are simply a But thats the point. Here youll
know about the Grand Canyon: matter of putting yourself be a guest of the indigenous Kuna
deep in the off-grid Havasupai in the right place people, who put a cap on visitor
Indian Reservation gushes a series of numbers, making for a castaway-style
secluded blue-green waterfalls. Youll experience on blindingly
have to trek 10 miles to reach them, or beautiful beaches.
catch a first-come first-served helicopter sanblas-islands.com
ride. Nothing will prepare you for their
staggering beauty, as you hurl yourself
into the cool waters, before setting up
camp among the worlds oldest exposed
rocks. grandcanyon.com
IMAGES: GETTY WORDS: HELEN WARWICK & NICOLA TRUP
Experiences 2017 45
A cosmos of colour
On an expedition to the wilderness thick snow sprawling outwards, onwards Way are merely the support acts. For
of Norways Svalbard, the Arctic and upwards. Out there, polar bears now, snaking through the sky, come
skies put on an unforgettable show. roam the land, avalanches pose a genuine enormous, jade-green ribbons of aurora,
Words: Connor McGovern risk, and the temperature is in the region licking upwards from the horizon like
of -20C. Our guard dogs, all wagging tails languid flames, or weaving across the
Just two lazy guard dogs separate me and pricked ears when we arrived, are black and disappearing behind the
from the Arctic wilderness. now curled up in their beds. I, like them, mountains. In a landscape so hostile and
The rest of the group is perched have decided to ignore the dangers. unforgiving, I find solace beneath this
around a dining table, blankets tucked For now Im too busy admiring the sky. cloudless evening sky. The temperature
over laps, fingertips finally defrosted. Stretching above is an almost faultless doesnt seem to matter as I stand alone
Comfortably sealed off in a heated, canvas of black; the sort city dwellers in the snow; the night sky is rarely this
tented bubble, they eat carrot cake and never see. And its heavy with stars: some colourful and seldom so beautiful.
sip tea. Dinner is winding down now, beacons of white, others wispy trails of Cloaking it all is the unmistakable sense
both the wine and the fatigue of a days faraway dust. An occasional comet races of silence one most never experience.
snowmobiling lulling us all into a stupor. through the sky, and sprinkled I can see plenty, but hear nothing.
But nature has called, so Ive slipped throughout are ethereal They say silence is golden, but
outside. Shrouded in wintry darkness,
Svalbards ceaseless expanse of winter is
clouds of bluish purple.
But the inky heavens,
n ie now I know differently. In
Svalbard, at least, silence is a
all I can see: a ghostly off -blue blanket of stars, and billows of Milky Silence cosmos of colour.
is rarely just
golden
46 natgeotraveller.co.uk
BEING THERE
Experiences 2017 47
BEING THERE
AFRICAS T
he car crunches across the sandy
plain and deposits us, in silence,
behind a hillock. The hour is
early and a wash of violet stains the sky
pyramids
OTHER
behind me, as I shoulder my small bag
and set off westwards. The cool sand
spills over my flip-flops, so I bend to
remove them, planting my feet
awkwardly into the deep dunes. The
exertion pulls beads of sweat to my
forehead despite the crisp morning air.
As I pace up the last incline, my eyes
come level with what weve risen before
dawn to see: the UNESCO-listed
pyramids of Mero. Theyre part of a
cache of royal burial sites whose
4,600-year-old, Toblerone-style peaks
far outnumber those of Egypt and yet
receive far fewer visitors. Negative news
coverage has left travellers wary of
In a country with even more Sudan that, and the fact the
pyramids than Egypt, Mero is the government isnt interested in
pick of Sudans ancient sites, with promoting our antiquities because its
not Arab history, according to my
220 of the glorious steep-sided guide, Hitam El Nour. A Nubiologist
structures waiting to be explored (archaeologist specialising in Ancient
Words: Emma Thomson Nubia) with a PhD in White Nile
pottery, the only thing betraying
n ie his 47 years are the white hairs
among his tight black curls.
A misjudged, We stand in the noiseless
treasure-filled desert, the kataha (sandy air)
sandbox
blowing softly around us until the
sun rises above the horizon,
lighting the pyramids like shards of
honeycomb protruding from the sand.
Were surveying the northern site, where
the great Kushite queens and kings were
buried. Ruled by the Egyptians for
500 years, the Kushites absorbed all
aspects of Egyptian culture, including
the penchant for pyramids, albeit with
their own twist: making them steeper
with smaller bases. In 760BC, when the
Egyptian empire was weakening, these
Nubian emperors invaded and ruled as
pharaohs for nearly a century during a
period known as the Twenty-Fifth
Dynasty. Their empire stretched from
Khartoum to the Mediterranean Sea,
with Mero as the capital. Only
discovered by Europeans in 1821, the
pyramids were looted a decade later by
Italian explorer Giuseppe Ferlini,
although all but one were empty.
Today, we weave between the
pyramids whose bases have history
IMAGE: GETTY
A man and his camel in scratched into the stone: from the
front of the pyramids outlines of elephants, giraffe and
and tombs of Mero gazelles showing that this area was once
Experiences 2017 49
BEING THERE
50 natgeotraveller.co.uk
BEING THERE
0
Kitcheners soldiers his search for gold and
passing by on their way the one in which he hit
to the Battle of Number of touts who the jackpot, unearthing a
Omdurman in 1898. bothered me at Mero stash of jewellery hidden
Several archaeologists,
making the most of the 1 near the apex. In brutish
fashion, he crowbarred
Nights wild camping in
cooler early morning the cartouche of her face
the Nubian Desert
hours, are painstakingly off the slabs of stone at
5
restoring the crumbling the entrance but it has
corners. They nod sagely since been replaced with
as we pass, before Glorious sunrises seen a replica, and I trace my
7
JEBEL BARKAL The holy returning to their work. finger over three
mountain was believed by One of the smaller scratches raked across
the Kushites to be the pyramids, restored in the Plates of ful (national her cheek. What are
home of the god Amun-Ra 1980s, bears a smooth dish) eaten these? I ask. Theyre the
220
due to its cobra-head rendered exterior. But it tribal markings of Kushite
pinnacle (cobras appear looks a little cartoonish women, Hitam explains.
on the crown of Nubian and I veer towards the Pyramids at Mero The heat is rising fast.
kings). All Kushite kings untouched structures. Here, the dry air doesnt
and queens had their Theres an air of defiance just make you sweat; it
coronation here. about them as they stand blasts the moisture from
firm against the sands you like a hairdryer, so
EL-KURRU The first royal that are trying to swallow them up. we take a chance and make our way to
burial site of the Twenty- Indeed, it was an act of resistance that the old Royal City of Mero nearby. We
Fifth Dynasty Kushite led to the pyramids at Mero being built find it closed for excavations, but at the
kings to make use of in the first place. History tells gate meet Mawya, a third-generation
pyramids. While the us that Kushite King Arakamani guardian whose grandfather helped the
surviving structures (Ergamenes) grew tired of the power first archaeologists unearth the site in
have lost their shape, the wielded by the high priests, so when 1909. I ask him for stories of the past. He
sites two open tombs are they sent the order for him to kill leans on the door frame and looks far
covered with exquisite himself, he responded by having them into the distance. My grandmother told
wall paintings, featuring all murdered instead, says Hitam. The me that during the rainy season, theyd
scenes from the Book of rebellion issued in a new era of Meroitic all run to collect the gold when it
the Dead. culture: the almighty Egyptian god washed from the tombs to the surface.
Amun-Ra was downgraded in favour of Its time to return to Khartoum, but en
NURI The 60-odd the lion god Abedemak, the (still- route we stop at the home of Mr Hassan
pyramids at this royal undeciphered) Meroitic script was and his wife, Zakia. Sitting on weathered
burial site havent created and queens ruled the plastic chairs, we enjoy the cool shade
weathered so well, but this army. As we enter one of the of their whitewashed compound. Hitam
doesnt diminish its narrow tombs, Hitam points to looks at me to see if Ive noticed
beauty. The towering the walls. See how the kings anything, but he neednt have. As Zakia
tombs of the great HIGH stand taller than the gods? hands me a flute of piping hot coffee,
Finding a scene
Napatan King Taharqa Youll never see that in Egypt, I catch sight of a trio of tribal markings
from the Book of
and King Aspelta the Dead, that Id
he says. The kings controlled flowing, like dry riverbeds, towards her
remain impressive. seen at the British everything, except death, so jaw. Theyre exactly like those marking
Museum, carved they built the pyramids for the likeness of Queen Amanishakheto at
SOLEB The best-preserved into a tomb [their] immortality. We exit Mero. A true Nubian, Zakias ancestors
Egyptian temple on into the burgeoning sunlight. are direct descendants of the Kushites.
Sudanese soil. It was Unharassed by touts or All of a sudden ancient history doesnt
founded by Amenhotep III hemmed in by barriers, I get a seem so distant.
IMAGES: EMMA THOMSON
Experiences 2017 51
BEING THERE
tower has always caused a stir. However, about the view, and instead observe
over the past decade, these additions my fellow guests, who all share an
have become more frequent, ambitious excitable, wide-eyed quality, no doubt
52 natgeotraveller.co.uk
BEING THERE
Towers
still struck by the novelty of
their surroundings.
The next morning, I cross HIGH
Shard dominates the landscape,
its fragmented tip conducting
the gathering storm clouds.
n ie
London Bridge, now heaving The night-time I steal another glance at London will
with traffic, and meander cityscape it as I make my way up a feel forever
hopefully through several leafy staircase to the Darwin different
alleyways, emerging, to my Brasserie, one the buildings five
surprise, by the Monument. rooftop restaurants and bars.
Ive always been fond of the There Im given a window-side
LOW
Monument. As a child growing Coming down
table, and, over a rich tiramisu
up in the East End, the highlight to earth cocktail, I look out and am
of any trip west was always an struck by the river.
ascent of its winding staircase, then a As someone with a poor sense
nervy circumnavigation of its viewing of direction, I suppose, Id always
platform. But today Im looking for subconsciously thought of the Thames
something bigger, and I finally find it as something of a straight line and
at the end of a narrow alleyway 20 that all the landmarks along its banks
Fenchurch Street, also known as the were somehow laid out in neat rows.
Walkie Talkie, due to its unusual shape, But now I see just what an erratic
or the Sky Garden, after the three-storey trail it blazes, snaking back and forth,
public garden that sits at its top. scattering everything in its path.
After queuing briefly, I emerge Back in the clouds, a starter of
from the lift onto a table-strewn plaza braised ox cheek is followed by a plate Rooms at the Shangri-La
Hotel at The Shard start from
surrounded by plants, leading out to a of beautifully cooked venison. While
350 per night.
broad balcony. But while theres a tall, I await dessert, I trace the river as it
shangri-la.com/london
transparent barrier keeping everyone skirts around the skyscrapers of Canary The Darwin Brasseries
perfectly safe, this outdoor area is Wharf, and feel that only now do I really three-course set lunch is
too much for my vertigo. Maybe its understand this city; its enormity, the 37.50, available Mon-Tue.
the sound of the wind, or the contact way it functions and moves, and the skygarden.london/darwin
with the fresh air, but those nervous manner in which those places I know so
instincts Id kept at bay over at the well interlink.
Shangri-La spring to life and cause my Dinner over, I bid the Sky Garden
legs to buckle. goodbye, head down to the street and
I dash back inside, just as it begins to instantly lose my bearings. But then
rain, and admire the view from a cafe down at ground level, everything feels
table. This time, gazing southwards, suddenly so peculiar. Its as if nothing is
theres only one point of focus The quite how, or where, I left it.
Experiences 2017 53
Icelands Mightiest Lava Cave
is now accessable
Escapades ICELANDIC
WATERY STAIRCASE
Visit the Gullfoss waterfall and youll have the chance to see at first-hand where the
vast majority of the meltwater from the Langjkull glacier ends up. Giant fractured
staircases in the rocks cause the Hvt river to plummet around 100ft over two sets of
falls. The drama is heightened by the canyon-like walls, which reach a height of 230ft ,
entombing the river at this point.
Lava lumps
Head for the coastland around Arnarstapi,
it looks truly ancient, the geyser is only
around 200 years old; it emerged after an
earthquake fractured the crust, creating
where lumps and bumps of lava, mostly an exit route for the hot water. Plenty of
IMAGES: GETTY
Volcanic church
At once both stern and surreal,
and with an austere concrete
exterior, Reykjaviks
Wizard's hat
Likened to the Hogwarts Sorting Hat,
Hallgrmskirkja Lutheran
Kirkjufell is a mountain of strikingly conical
Church looks like something
dimensions that rises abruptly from sea
Gaud might have designed level to 1,500ft above the west coast. Its
while on an Arctic sabbatical. easy to walk around, though youll need a
The distinctive steeple and guide and a head for heights to climb it.
wings are meant to reflect the Boat trips from the shing village of
way lava cools to basalt rock. Grundarfjrur allow Kirkjufell to be
Easily the citys highest viewed from other angles, plus the chance
to spot pufns, sperm whales and orcas.
building (250ft), the views
from the steeple are
truly striking.
Experiences 2017 55
BEING THERE
LANGJKULL GLACIER
Having never been into military Soon, were 40 metres deep the glacier almost asunder. We
hardware as a child or adult, its more with a further 250 metres of peer down into the crevices
than surreal to be sitting on a multiple solid ice below us. More than HIGH depths and up into the unseen
rocket launcher as it trundles slowly up 500 metres of tunnels have been Driving down gloom of its heights.
the side of a glacier. chiselled out of Icelands empty roads past Before too long, we emerge
Ice 2, as the gargantuan second-largest glacier. lava fields back into sunlight, wide-eyed
vehicle is labelled, has been
converted and now journeys
n ie It took geologists
and architects four
and a little light-footed, to take
in the vast, impressive
up and down the flanks of A moonscape years to work out panorama of Icelands rugged
the Langjkull glacier in the painted in how to do it, landscape and ugly beauty:
colour LOW
west of Iceland, transporting eventually removing Whale meat
miles of snow, moraine and
tourists to a distant chink in 5,500 cubic metres of on menus in boulders constrained only by
the slopes high above. Chest-high ice (though this actually some Reykjavik distant peaks on the skyline.
tyres enable the vehicle to eat up the ice, represents just 0.00275% of the restaurants Im struck by the glaciers size,
moraine and boulders that are sprinkled entire glacier). but also shocked by its fragility.
across the landscape. Ive walked on As our eyes adjust, the low-level Climate change projections suggest itll
glaciers in Nepal, Greenland and Chile, lighting becomes redundant and a be gone within 80 years.
but never before have I done what were ghostly glow takes over. Everyone is Its melting, says our guide. He slowly
about to do and head into one. silent. Perhaps were all stunned by the peels his gloves off for dramatic effect
Our carriage grinds to a halt. Close by spectacle, or maybe everyones lips are and smiles: Hurry, while stocks last.
a discrete rectangular opening awaits, numb from the cold (its zero degrees). That could be the motto of our planet.
the sort of gateway youd expect to lead The experience is breathtakingly intotheglacier.is
to a subterranean mansion built for a haunting, rather like serenely gliding
Bond villain. We disembark, file through a chilled cocoon. DISCOVER THE WORLD offers Journey to the
Centre of the Earth, a seven-night fly-drive,
obediently down the tunnel, then don The ice around us is about 35 years old
available from 981 per person (winter) or 1,090
IMAGE: ALAMY
helmets and slip crampons onto our and every now and then we see how (summer), based on two sharing on a B&B basis.
feet. Our guide welcomes us, his voice nature has chosen to intervene: we pass a Includes car rental with a pre-loaded iPad and
reverberating off the walls of our huge crevice, 40 metres deep and several return flights. discover-the-world.co.uk
austere freezer. hundred metres in length, that has split MORE INFO: visiticeland.com
56 natgeotraveller.co.uk
VISIT THE VOLCANOES
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Choice Award, this magnificent park is a according to TripAdvisor! For the third year
true animal embassy that promotes in a row Travellers Choice Award
conservation of biodiversity and protection of the environment. recognizes Siam Park for its exceptional quality and excellence, as
reflected in the evaluations made by the visitors in Trip Advisor
Brand New! Loro Parque to Welcome African Lions having personally experienced all the amazing and innovative
True to its commitment to conservation of biodiversity, Loro Parque attractions in Siam Park.
takes up a new initiative and this summer offers to its visitors a
unique opportunity to meet the African lions, one of the most
emblematic animals of this continent but sadly highly endangered
due to irresponsible human activities, like illegal hunting and
trafficking. That is why since 2016 Loro Parque Foundation has
been supporting the efforts for conservation of these magnificent
animals in Africa, with the financial support of over 120 000 U.S.
dollars provided so far to this cause. Now, with this new step, Loro
Parque will work towards further raising awareness about the need
to cherish and protect the lions in the wild.
Sandboard
down a Dive off
Namibian dune
The Namib desert is a
land of dark skies and Par 5 the Sky Tower
ON
stargazing; of rattlesnakes Its not just the views from
and dead-tree valleys; and of Aucklands 1,076ft Sky Tower that
THE MOVE
towering sand dunes. What will set your heart racing. Inching
better way to explore this your way (while attached by a
wilderness than shooting harness) around the SkyWalk,
down them at 50mph? You a narrow ledge encircling the
neednt be an expert surfer Forget rest and relaxation, tower, really tests the nerves.
or boarder; just lie down,
stretch your muscles and trek, Alternatively, dive off the
dive head-first and hold on towers SkyJump the tallest
tight. namibiatourism.com.na climb, parachute and plunge in man-made jump in the Southern
some of the worlds most Hemisphere. skywalk.co.nz
stunning settings
Hike across
Kangaroo Island DARE TO TAKE THE HUASHAN
MOUNTAIN TRAIL
The recently opened 38-mile Where do daredevil walkers
IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY WORDS: HELEN WARWICK & NICOLA TRUP
Experiences 2017 59
ON THE MOVE
heaven
The stunning Peak
District is the ideal
place to challenge
ascend to
yourself be it at rocky
heights or inky depths,
through narrow passages
and under icy water.
WORDS: Zane Henry
descend into
hell
60 natgeotraveller.co.uk
ON THE MOVE
ay 1
Im 59 and I weigh 10.5 stone. Ive had rigged us up with harnesses goodbye to feeling warm for a
developed a tiny potbelly from drinking and ropes so that we were while. The shifting rocks were
too much beer. My shoulders are a bit technically safe. It didnt feel HIGH sharp and slippery underfoot
wider than my hips. And my head is like that halfway up as my hands Enjoying a beer and it took a while to settle into
slightly larger than it should be. Im not scrambled for purchase on wet at the end, as the right gait. Along the banks,
very flexible. rock, my face exfoliated against the magnitude of sheep stood looking bemused
I know all of this because the crushing the gritstone, and my head swam the days events as we slowly slipped and slid our
reality of my bodys dimensions are being when I made the mistake of came into focus way upstream.
impressed upon me while Im bobbing in looking down at the sawtooth Every few metres, we hit a
a waterlogged tunnel in Bagshawe Cavern rocks 25ft below. I slipped as small waterfall that we had to
on a Sunday morning. I got to the very top slab and climb, water exploding around
The sun is shining somewhere above dangled from both hands, legs our heads as we scrambled for
but down here its cold and dark. Ive just kicking in the air, the tug of the LOW purchase on the mossy rocks.
Losing my
crawled 10 metres across sharp rocks rope at my belly providing little It was exhilarating to have our
handhold at 50ft
and icy mud to reach this point. The reassurance. But I quickly flung faces smooshed right up against
while climbing
roof of the tunnel already scraping myself over the top and gave a sly Hell Crack and
so much beauty.
against the top of my helmet dips middle finger to Death. dangling from At one point, the streambed
down further in front of me into a pool After lunch, we headed off for the rope. Not fell away under our feet, a deep
of grimly opaque water that my little some gorge walking basically, unscary hole opened up and we were
headlamp fails to pierce. climbing up a stream. We treading water. This spot became
I cant pass and I cant go back because wiggled into wetsuits and set off across a our target for a cannonball rock-jump
the nose of my wife, Zaneta, is at glade to the rumbling, tumbling from a shelf above. The finale was a
my feet behind me. The only waters, set against blinding 10ft waterfall that we had to climb with
way forward is to sink my greenery. As bracingly a rope. At the top, I laid down in the
head into the water and cold water sloshed stream, panting, feeling the water rush
swim-wriggle through over the tops of into my wetsuit and the energy rush out
to the other side of my boots, I said of my body. What a day.
the blockage. I take
a big gulp of the
carbon dioxide-
rich air, swear to
never have another
beer, and get ready
to slip into the black.
I hadnt realised
this is what Id be
letting myself in for when
Id agreed to spend two days
with Lost Earth Adventures, climbing,
abseiling, gorge scrambling and caving in
the Peak District. Zaneta and I had done
a bit of bouldering at our local climbing
wall, and I foolishly mentioned this to
Richard, our guide, on our first morning.
He promptly spirited us away to Stanage
Edge, a gritstone escarpment that draws
IMAGES: RICHARD GOODEY; GETTY
Experiences 2017 61
ON THE MOVE
ay 2
Next day, in wetsuits and overalls, we just a few seconds to pass, I feel like Im
joined spelunking specialist Tom. dying and crossing over to the other side.
The entrance to Bagshawe Cavern was I come up spluttering with my mouth
concealed within a tiny cottage that tasting of dirt. I cant use my mud-caked
contains a chest-high door opening onto hands to get the water out of my eyes,
a flight of rough-hewn steps. so can only blink quickly and shake
We explored a number of tunnels and my head. We high-five each other for
caverns, dipping into little offshoots, surviving our River Styx and press on.
before eventually abseiling down to After slithering through a few more
the lower levels, where impressive rock mud chutes, we crawl into a new space.
formations abounded.
Its wasnt long before we
The cave roof is low here too but
its much drier, with just Zaneta's take
were caked in mud, and
crawling through watery
n ie enough height to for us to
get up on hands and knees.
What made you want to do this?
I love pushing myself and this weekend
tunnels, made all the Over, under, Its also relatively wide, seemed like the challenge of a lifetime.
more challenging by our sideways, with hundreds of small Im interested in bouldering and
distorted senses. Soon we down. stalactites and stalagmites climbing, and wanted to try rock climbing
were rigged up with ropes Uh stretching beyond the in stunning surroundings. Gorge walking
again, abseiling down a dark beams of our headlamps. sounded gentle... oh how wrong I was!
hole, with Richard and Tom They glow in the light, throwing
shouting down encouragement. phantasmagorical shapes against the How prepared did you feel?
After landing on solid ground, it was shadowy walls of the cave. It feels Ive done a bit of indoor bouldering so
back to crawling through freezing mud like being a giant inside a Lilliputian climbing wasnt completely new, but I
puddles that slowly began to rise. We cathedral, with limestone columns and was completely out of my depth when
were hitting the underground river. spires erupting around us. it came to gorge walking and caving.
Soon enough we were in water up to our Without being prompted, the four of Thankfully, our guides were incredibly
chins, helmets grinding against the cave us stop talking; theres no sound save helpful, and knew exactly how to push
roof, mouths tilted up to snatch oxygen our breathing and our heartbeats. Life me against my better judgement.
from the thin pocket of air above us. is carrying on in its brash fashion far
Bobbing along, we used the rocks above our heads, but where we are, right What was your favourite moment?
below to propel ourselves forward now, theres nothing not the flutter of Scaling the equivalent of a four-storey
which brings us to now, and the a bat, the scuttle of an ant or the scurry building, hanging on a rope belayed by
seemingly impassable obstacle. Theres of a rat. Just an immense lack of life. someone Id just met, looking back and
no way forward other than down and We back out slowly, sliding in the absorbing the beauty of the Peak District
through. I take a deep breath, shut my mud, and soon were talking again, while breathing in the crisp, spring air.
eyes and go for it. Everything goes dark sharing our thoughts on what it felt like
and cold as I grab the rocks along the to be entombed by such all-consuming What was the biggest challenging?
bottom to pull myself down and forward silence. Its a great moment. Squeezing through the tightest, muddiest
beneath the overhang. Even though it And then we realise we have to do tunnel on our hands and knees if I had
can only be about a metre long and takes that underwater swim again. any remnants of claustrophobia they
were eradicated by that. And that one
part of the cave system we could only
enter by ducking into ice-cold water.
62 natgeotraveller.co.uk
ZERMATT.
The Matterhorn and a world full of experiences
BOO
BE S
-
MAR
K ON
T
LINE
Unless you have been there yourself its impossible to can enjoy a spectacular view of the highest peaks in the
appreciate the sheer size of the Matterhorn and truly Alps and a world of ice and snow. Here in the biggest
understand what makes it so special. The most-pho- summer skiing resort in the world, winter sports stars
tographed mountain in the world is more than a hall- from all corners of the globe come together with peo-
mark and symbol of Switzerland: it is an icon, a myth ple who are enjoying the snow for the very first time.
and an emblem all in one. You can already see it from
Zermatt, but you only start to get a real impression of For the bon viveur Zermatt also has plenty to offer, and
the full scale of the 4478-metre mountain once you is considered a hub of culinary excellence. Whether you
trek up onto the hiking paths above the village. Keen prefer to pull on your walking boots or relax on the sun
hikers can explore the extensive pathways and catch terrace with its view of the Matterhorn, whether youre
the changing perspectives of the famous pyramid of tempted by haute cuisine with Gault-Millau points and
rock. The landscape around Zermatt is the epitome of Michelin stars, a traditional fondue or an international
alpine mountain scenery, a picture so pretty it belongs menu, you will definitely find what youre looking for in
in a frame. And crystal clear mountain lakes in stunning Zermatt.
settings are the perfect spot for a picnic or even a re-
freshing dip. Visit matterhornparadise.ch for some exciting ideas to
inspire you to join us this summer in Zermatt.
It is hardly surprising that this paradise attracts not only
hikers and mountaineers but also all kinds of thrill-see-
kers, with the alpine activities on offer ranging from
mountain biking and paragliding to glacier skiing. Zer-
matt is a place of superlatives. At the highest mountain
station in Europe, Matterhorn glacier paradise, visitors
ON THE MOVE
canter
You neednt be a champion rider to
cut your teeth at polo although
patience and determination wont
go amiss. Words: Sam Lewis
At a Quick and agile, polo ponies can gallop
at 35mph and turn on a sixpence. At
least thats what Im told. First, I need to
master riding with one hand and hitting
the blasted ball with the other, if Im
ever to progress beyond walking speed.
I miss the ball yet again, even though
my mare is barely moving. Feeling sorry
for myself, I dismount and skulk off to
the Polo Bar for a consolation cocktail.
Beginners luck! I shout, as I watch
my husband wallop the ball halfway
down the pitch. Tomorrows another
day, I decide, while watching the real
players galloping up and down.
Ive come to Desert Palm PER
AQUUM, a 160-acre estate in Dubai,
POLO RULES
LINE-UP: Two teams of four mounted TIMINGS: Matches are divided into player who hits the ball. No opponent
players, each carrying a mallet chukkas, each lasting up to seven may cross that line, or a penalty is given
PITCH: Typically, a 270-metre-long field minutes. A match can consist of four to GETTING THE BALL: Players can get the
GOALS: Scored when a white ball is hit eight chukkas ball off of their opponent by using their
through posts at each end of the pitch. RIGHT OF WAY: An imaginary line along horse to push them out of the way. They
Ends are changed after every goal which the ball travels, established by the can also hook their opponents mallet
64 natgeotraveller.co.uk
ON THE MOVE
to learn the so-called sport of kings you dont need to know how to second lesson were miraculously
but so far its been an exercise ride to give polo a go. Just book a cantering, albeit at a speed of
in frustration. However, my hotels week-long course to learn to ride HIGH around 5-10mph.
facilities are a suitable compensation: one-handed and swing a mallet, Hitting the My mare, Milonga, is a seasoned
its a boutique spa resort. Its hard to or take individual lessons or ball at a canter polo player, and Im told she wont
believe Im only 20 minutes from those instructional chukkas. mind if I ride her into an opponent
famous desert skyscrapers, when the Coach Matias is a former pro to gain the ball (unlikely), or hang
view from my suite is one of the three Argentinian player who has a precariously out of the saddle
manicured grass pitches, flanked by handicap of four (thats good). Hes LOW to strike an offside shot (if only).
palm trees and bougainvillea in full adamant I must master the correct Missing the However, after a lot off loping
bloom. Nearby, 200 horses graze in lush technique at a walk before we ball at a canter around, things begin to click, and
paddocks, sleep in air-conditioned move up to a canter, so I patiently I manage to hit the ball the length
stables and snack on hay imported from weave up and down the 270-metre pitch of the pitch into an undefended goal.
Holland, tended to by a team of grooms. until I can perfect a fluid, straight swing With lessons over, we watch a game
Desert Palm is home to the Dubai and loft and dribble my ball a feeble 10- with several pros. The intensity is such
Polo Club, and its accommodation 20 metres. that horses are changed for fresh ones
was built to host players during the The top players can whack it up to a after each seven-minute chukka; players
polo season, from October to hundred, but Matias is drilling need a string of ponies to compete. And
May. The resort attracts all us on consistency over power. while its good to know you neednt be a
manner of tourists and
expats, and while some
n ie Were taught to stand up in
the saddle and lean down
prince to learn to play, with polo ponies
costing between 11,500 and 115,000,
are skilled equestrians, Fun. Addictive. to hit the ball, and by the its certainly not a game for paupers.
Frustrating.
Occasionally
painful!
Experiences 2017 65
IF
YOURE
thrill
seeking
A
LABEL Nature
loving enjoying
BEACH BISTRO
BISTRO
yoga-ing DINING
DINING
Seaside
lazing
MAD-FOR-IT Festival
BIKING Gigging
...BOURNEMOUTH GOING
KIND here
of person Be in Bournemouth
this summer
THE
PLEASURES
paddling
OF
Apprehension is running high. The instructors, and all the sympathy I can and hardwoods, a canvas of greens with
jovial mood at breakfast, when we telepathically channel goes out to flecks of fiery orange as the autumn
merrily swapped stories of nocturnal Stefanie, who has to rely on me to foliage emerges. For all the drama of the
noises, has fizzled away. negotiate this stretch of the river. torrents up ahead, the only sounds are
Were travelling to Madawaska River Were talked through the manoeuvres those coming from the woods. A
to the strains of the Beach Boys, the by Ian, the groups main instructor, who chipmunk scurries along the bank,
canoes at the back of our van rattling as reels off a couple of worst-case scenarios, before darting deeper into the thicket,
we bump along Ontarios backcountry. from taking a swim to hitting a while a chorus of birds chirrups.
With my shiny helmet, plastic rock and the canoe getting Staying at the Madawaska
paddle and wetsuit gear, it feels crushed downstream. Kanu Centre, weve been
like summer camp, but canoe
culture runs deep in the
n ie However, the gently
lapping water has a HIGH
stripped of our connections to
the outside world and
Canadian-American Even a calming effect and it Beautiful encouraged to immerse
borderlands. First Nations novice can isnt until one of the lakeside sunrises ourselves in the environment
people have been here for canoe more able members instead. Food is grown locally;
nearly 20,000 years; the canoe, of our group overturns campfires replace wi-fi; and
their primary mode of water his canoe during a entertainment consists of
transport, was used for trading and practice emergency turn that the LOW lakeside conversations as the
hunting, like a needle threading 2,600 dam holding back my rising Putting on sun sets upstream. But its this
miles of waterways. panic bursts. I turn to Stefanie. a wetsuit moment, in this canoe, that
I only have a mile of the rivers rapids I dont know what to do if resonates with me most. This
and eddies to tackle, but recent that happens. I usually work in the instant of tranquillity that follows my
experience doesnt fill me kitchen, is the answer I get in return. trepidation entering the river, and
with confidence. Yesterday, We spend the next hour slapping the preceeds the inevitable onslaught.
while tandem canoeing in water with our paddles. We navigate Soon, the roar of the rapids starts to
IMAGES: GETTY
Mud Bay, I was dragged turns propped up on our knees, our invade my peace, the rustle of the woods
out by the wind and thighs strapped to the sides of the canoe, replaced by the ferocious water
was unable to steer in moving our hips in time to veer around challenging the rocks in its path.
anything other than rocks. It all feels effortless. Stefanie Godspeed, yells Ian as he swings up
an imperfect turns and gives a nod: weve got this. behind us. Im back on my knees, poised
circle. This As rehearsal turns to reality, we bob with paddle in hand. Unwavering.
time, were downstream towards the rapids, our eyes Determined. Stefanie turns around for
paired with fixed on the surrounding forest of pines one last reassuring look. Lets do this.
Experiences 2017 67
ON THE MOVE
Canoeing in Ontario
68 natgeotraveller.co.uk
ON THE MOVE
ALIVE &
KICKING While it might seem like a laid-back hideaway, remote
Alphonse Island in the Seychelles is the perfect place
for working up a sweat whether its kayaking, sea
fishing or cycling, with animal encounters around
every corner. Words: Ronan OShea
70 natgeotraveller.co.uk
ON THE MOVE
T
he way I see it, there are four
luxuries in life: peace, privacy,
time and tortoises. Sadly, all
are in short supply. Unless, that is, you
head to Alphonse Island.
Just south of the equator, 250 miles
from the Seychellois capital of Mah,
Alphonse Island takes some finding.
As we head there in our eight-seater
plane, all I can see for miles and miles
is blue sky and fluffy clouds. And then,
suddenly, it appears a green speck
amid the azure.
At the Alphonse Island Resort, each
guest is given a bicycle for the week;
after mainlining a coffee, I jump on
mine and go for a ride. I cycle along
dusty paths into dense forest. The
coconut trees are everywhere like
many invasive species, they now have
the run of the place, towering above me
at angles askew, like tropical towers of
Pisa, their fronds swishing in the wind.
Its very peaceful, until... suddenly,
theres a loud thud a coconut
crashing down somewhere inside
the vast forest.
On my first morning we
n five meet at the beachfront
for a tour of the reef flats.
Sunsets, serenity,
In no time at all, several
seafood and
creatures have come into
tortoises
view from stingrays and
moray eels to turtles, which
nest in huge numbers on the
island each year. We wade through
the water and out to the reefs edge.
Next we see a puffer fish, which makes
itself known by puffing out the very
spikes it uses to keep us at arms length.
A little further on, we find a turtle
resting inside a small hole, refusing to
come up for air until we leave.
The next morning Im sea-bound
once more, this time in a kayak. But as
I paddle away from the island in search
of more wildlife, Im suddenly beckoned
back to the beach. Someone has found
a hawksbill turtle nesting the first of
the season, were told. A crowd gathers
at a distance safe enough not to disturb
her. She digs a huge hole in the sand.
Shell do this four to five times this year,
laying between 150 and 200 eggs, only
a handful of which will survive. Her
maternity ward is basic, to say the least,
but the sight is magnificent. We leave
her be and return to the water.
In the afternoon, we visit uninhabited
Bijoutier Island, where herons swoop,
Experiences 2017 71
Photo Credit: Hadrians Wall (Graeme Peacock)
WIN!
An overnight stay for two
people at Grade 2 listed
countryside hideaway
WALWICK HALL
visitnorthumberland.com/itsinournature
ON THE MOVE
natural beauty of the island or interfere during our stay is caught by our guides sea, but I do know theres Seybrew (a
with the already delicate ecosystem. (the island is famous for its world-class delicious local beer) in there. Perhaps
These limits mean that those fortunate fly fishing) in sustainable waters, while we should just give up on the fishing
enough to come here get to enjoy a huge amount of the fruit, vegetables and enjoy ourselves.
unparalleled close-ups with nature. I and herbs we consume are grown in And then, all of a sudden, a rod
see baby dolphins frolicking in the sea, the islands gardens. The gardens are springs to life. The line becomes taut,
Experiences 2017 73
ON THE MOVE
the reel spins around and around. this boat without catching anything. I get off my bike, camera in hand, and
Whatevers at the end of it is kicking up Raise and release, raise and release walk slowly towards a large male. He
quite the fuss. I repeat the motion over and over, allows me to come close and lets me
Youre up, says my guide, thrusting reeling in whenever the line cuts feel the tough carapace of his shell and
the rod into my hands. I clasp the me some slack. The guide urges me the leathery skin beneath his neck. I
handle and reel, trying to recall those to continue, as lactic acid wills my kneel down to take a photo. He poses
fishing trips in Ireland, but all I can forearms and legs to give up. How can willingly for several moments, then
actually remember is rain and my fishing use so many muscles? jumps to his feet (surprisingly fast) and
mother shouting that Im doing it I continue, reeling, lifting, sweating, charges towards me, snapping his jaws.
wrong. Reel! the guide screams. I do as panting, but the shark is a stubborn He probably just wants a leaf, but I
Im told, reeling in with all my strength and formidable foe. He jumps out of dont stick around to find out, aware that
until the line refuses to budge any more. the water, close to the boat, but just as Im encroaching on his territory. From
Lift the line, he says. Drop it, and I prepare for one final push, the rod a distance, I watch as he settles back
reel again. I lift the rod, now curved like straightens, limp and lifeless in my down, munching happily on the grass.
a vaulters pole. I drop it, and reel once hands. The line is broken. Jaws has I get on my bike and head back, but
more. Thats it, says the guide. Keep escaped to fight another day. I can only on the way back to my bungalow I turn
doing that. admire him. off, unable to resist one more cycle
What is it? asks one of my My guide smiles. You were so close, through the forest, one more moment
fellow guests. he says. But at least you got to see what of peace and solitude. Its the right
Its a shark, says the guide. its like. decision although as the light begins
Sorry, a what? As if able to read my All too soon its the final night of my to fade and Im faced with the forests
thoughts, he smiles. The tug on the trip, and I decide to take one last cycle descending veil of darkness, I speed
line; you had a wahoo, and now a shark ride to watch the setting sun as it slips up, cycling as quickly as I can, wary not
has the wahoo. Deflated, I stop reeling. down into the ocean. I head past the to bump into any wayward tortoises on
Keep going! he shouts. No point restaurant and the tennis court, and my way.
in stopping now. I do as instructed. into the clearing where Id earlier seen
Seven nights at Alphonse Island in a beach
Theres pride at stake. The shark the giant tortoises resting in the shade. bungalow on a full board basis, costs $12,000
might not be dinner (as a protected Its quiet now, away from the hustle and (9,270) for two. alphonse-island.com
species, itll have to be thrown back bustle of the bar, where the anglers are Air Seychelles flights from Heathrow start from
into the water) but I dont want to leave busy toasting their days achievements. 636.25 return. airseychelles.com
74 natgeotraveller.co.uk
10K RUN?
HOW
ABOUT
10,000FT
Take your fundraising to the next level
and experience the thrill of a skydive.
The money you raise saves lives.
British Heart Foundation 2017, a registered charity in England and Wales (225971) and Scotland (SC039426)