CAN DUBAI VA N I S H I N G THE TROPHY

GO GREEN? A R C T I C C U LT U R E H U N T D E B AT E

The
making
of an
icon
B ECOM ING

JA NE
OCTOBER 2017
I CO N T E N T S
O C TO B E R 2017 VO L . 232 N O . 4 O F F I C I A L J O U R N A L O F T H E N AT I O N A L G EO G R A P H I C S O C I E T Y

FRONT FEATURES

WORLD FOOD DAY

Where calories count

VISIONS
108 LIF E ON THE E DGE
For centuries Nenets herders and their reindeer have made 800-mile annual migrations
LQWKH5XVVLDQ$UFWLF1RZREVWDFOHVLQFOXGHFOLPDWHFKDQJHDQGDQDWXUDOJDVHOG
By Gleb Raygorodetsky Photographs by Evgenia Arbugaeva

EXPLORE
Animals: dogs and cats,
bees and bearsand wild
creatures like the slow
ORULVDERYHWKDWVXHU
in the illegal pet trade.

On the Cover To document 30 | BECOMING 52 | DUBAIS 70 | DEBATING

Jane Goodalls discoveries about JANE GOODALL AUDACIOUS GOAL TROPHY HUNTING
chimps, National Geographic sent
photographer Hugo van Lawick. 1HYHUEHIRUHVHHQOP The energy-intensive city Does hunting aid conser-
First he posed her for photos like footage shows the novice aims to go much greener. vation, as some claim?
this one. Later he proposed. researcher during her By Robert Kunzig By Michael Paterniti, Photo-
Photo by Hugo van Lawick landmark study of chimps Photographs by Luca Locatelli graphs by David Chancellor
in Tanzania. With fame
&RUUHFWLRQVDQG&ODULFDWLRQV
Go to natgeo.com/corrections.
came attempts to mythol-
ogize and control herbut 100 | WITHOUT A 130 | ON ALL FLOORS
also the means to continue HOME, OR HOPE In an infamous Manila
the work that has been her Persecution is driving the slum, apartment hallways
lifes passion. Rohingya from Myanmar. teem with life.
By Tony Gerber, Photographs By Brook Larmer, Photographs By Jeremy Berlin, Photographs
by Hugo van Lawick by William Daniels by Mariusz Janiszewski

3+2726(9*(1,$$5%8*$(9$1(1(76-2(/6$5725(1$7,21$/*(2*5$3+,&3+272$5.6/2:/25,6
| CONTENTS

EL SEWHERE

TELEVISION

THE MARATHON
RECORD QUEST
&RPSOHWLQJDPDUDWKRQ
PLOHVLQXQGHU
two hours is a feat that
has eluded runners. This
SDVW0D\(OLXG.LSFKRJH
FDPHZLWKLQVHFRQGVRI
breaking the barrier. The
H[SHULHQFHVRI.LSFKRJH
and other elite runners
their personal lives and
dreams as well as their
trainingare chronicled
in the new documentary
Breaking2.&UHDWHG
through a NikeNational
Geographic partnership,
the program will air at
FRQ6HSWHPEHU
on National Geographic.

T R AV E L E R M AG A Z I N E TELEVISION N AT G EO W I L D

JOURNEYS OF MORGAN FREEMANS HOUSE CALLS WITH

A LIFETIME THE STORY OF US THE YUKON VET
Dive into Sicily on a Power, belief, freedom, Michelle Oakley cares
delicious cultural journey. lovethey can help unite for animals of all kinds,
([SORUHLQWULJXLQJ,QGLDYH societies or splinter them. domesticated and wild,
GLHUHQWZD\VLQFOXGLQJ In The Story of Us, Morgan LQWKH<XNRQDQG$ODVND
camping in the Himalaya. Freeman travels the globe The series Dr. Oakley,
And surprise yourself to see these forces at Yukon Vet returns for a
with 15 amazingly achiev- ZRUN7KHVL[SDUWVHULHV IWKVHDVRQZLWKHLJKWQHZ
able adventures, in the DLUVDWF:HGQHVGD\V HSLVRGHV,WDLUVDWF
2FWREHU1RYHPEHULVVXH starting October 11 on Saturdays starting Octo-
of Traveler magazine. National Geographic. ber 14 on Nat Geo WILD.

Subscriptions )RUVXEVFULSWLRQVRUFKDQJHVRIDGGUHVVFRQWDFW&XVWRPHU6HUYLFHDWngmservice.com or &RQWULEXWLRQVWRWKH1DWLRQDO*HRJUDSKLF6RFLHW\DUHWD[GHGXFWLEOH

FDOO1*6/,1(2XWVLGHWKH86RU&DQDGDFDOO:HRFFDVLRQDOO\PDNH XQGHU6HFWLRQFRIWKH86WD[FRGH_&RS\ULJKWk
our subscriber names available to companies whose products or services might be of interest to you. If 1DWLRQDO*HRJUDSKLF3DUWQHUV//&_$OOULJKWVUHVHUYHG1DWLRQDO
you prefer not to be included, you may request that your name be removed from promotion lists by calling *HRJUDSKLFDQG<HOORZ%RUGHU5HJLVWHUHG7UDGHPDUNVp0DUFDV
1-800-647-5463. To opt out of future direct mail from other organizations, visit DMAchoice.org, or mail a Registradas. National Geographic assumes no responsibility for
UHTXHVWWR'0$&KRLFHFR'DWD 0DUNHWLQJ$VVRFLDWLRQ32%R[&DUPHO1< unsolicited materials. Printed in U.S.A.

1$7,21$/*(2*5$3+,&,66138%/,6+('0217+/<%<1$7,21$/*(2*5$3+,&3$571(56//&7+671::$6+,1*721'&21(<($50(0%(56+,386'(/,9
(5<72&$1$'$72,17(51$7,21$/$''5(66(66,1*/(,668(86'(/,9(5<&$1$'$,17(51$7,21$/$//35,&(6,186)81'6,1&/8'(66+,33,1*$1'+$1
'/,1*3(5,2',&$/63267$*(3$,'$7:$6+,1*721'&$1'$'',7,21$/0$,/,1*2)),&(632670$67(56(1'$''5(66&+$1*(6721$7,21$/*(2*5$3+,&32%2;7$03$)/,1
&$1$'$$*5((0(17180%(55(785181'(/,9(5$%/($''5(66(6721$7,21$/*(2*5$3+,&32%2;671$7252172217$5,20::81,7('.,1*'201(:667$1'35,&(
5(35(1)5$1&((0')5$1&(6$%3/,//(&('(;7(/&33$38',5(&7(8538%/,&$7,21'7$66,1$5,',55(63,7$/<5$33,0'65/9,$*'$9(/$7(
0,/$12$8775,%0,3267(,7$/,$1(63$63('$%%3267'/&219/1$57&'&%0,/$1267$03$48$'*5$3+,&60$57,16%85*:9
0(0%(56,)7+(3267$/6(59,&($/(576867+$7<2850$*$=,1(,681'(/,9(5$%/(:(+$9(12)857+(52%/,*$7,2181/(66:(5(&(,9($&255(&7('$''5(66:,7+,17:2<($56

3+2726.(,7+/$'=,16.,5811(5-867,1/8%,1)5((0$1
 UN W I N D A M BI T IO USLY.
CHARLESTON, SC

SIP DEL IC IO USLY.

FROM THE HOME OF

WE MAKE OUR BOURBON CAREFULLY. PLEASE ENJOY IT THAT WAY.

Makers 46 Bourbon Whisky, 47% Alc./Vol. 2017 Makers Mark Distillery, Inc. Loretto, KY makers46.com
|  F R O M T H E E D I TO R  |  C I T I E S O F T H E F U T U R E

on innovative citieswith a grant from The villas above are

S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y part of a 114-acre devel-
United Technologies.
KEY FOR CITIES In this months issue writer Rob Kunzig
opment in Dubai called
the Sustainable City.
and photographer Luca Locatelli take us Each villa is equipped
In 1950 less than a third of the worlds to Dubai, a sprawling eorescence of with solar panels. The
buildings are oriented to
people lived in cities. Today more than concrete, glass, and steel that has sprung
shade each other part
half do. By 2050 two-thirds of humanity up over the past three decades on the of the day; limiting direct
is expected to reside in urban areas. scorched sands of Arabia. Improba- sun exposure allows
Many sprawling, densely populated bly its aiming to become a green city. the villas to use smaller
air-conditioning units.
areas are all about un: unplanned, Built for cars, its now developing more
unhealthy, unsustainable. I remember walkable districts and public transporta- See more coverage of
feeling the un when my husband and I tion. Its transitioning to solar power and cities and sustainable
growth solutions
were in New Delhi in November 2016: In nding ways to reduce per capita energy online at natgeo.com
the capital city of the second most pop- and water consumptionright down to /urbanexpeditions.
ulous nation on Earth, the pollution was equipping mosques with low-ow faucets
so bad that schools had to close because to save water during the ritual ablutions
it wasnt safe for kids to be outdoors. before prayers.
The growth of cities has produced When we see cities straining against
some of the most complex issues of our natural limits in the way that Dubai does
time. Its a phenomenon that creates dis- so dramatically, its tempting to ask:
ruptionbut also great reason for hope. Should this city even be here? Kunzig
At National Geographic were known posed that question to environmental
for telling stories about vast and open advocate Tanzeed Alam. Thats the
places. Increasingly, however, were doc- wrong question, Alam replied. Its
umenting the growth of the worlds cities more about accepting where we are
to explore how this trend is changing us. today How do we make cities better?
Thats why weve brought you stories
from Detroit and from Lagos, Nigeria.
And its why weve launched Urban
Expeditionsa series of case studies Susan Goldberg, Editor in Chief

PHOTO: LUCA LOCATELLI

Americas emblem
stands for great strength
and long life.

With that in mind, lets talk retirement.

Visit us at mutualofamerica.com or call us at 1-866-954-4321.

I VISIONS

United States
Raccoons cluster near
a path in New Yorks
Central Park, hoping for
handouts from nocturnal
YLVLWRUV&LW\RFLDOVVD\
feeding the omnivorous
mammals is risky
raccoons can carry
rabiesand unnecessary,
given how resourceful
they are. Its also illegal.

PHOTO: HILARY SWIFT

O Order prints of select National Geographic photos online at NationalGeographicArt.com.
| VISIONS | YO U R S H O T. N G M .C O M

Jennifer MacNeill
WHY WE East Petersburg, Pennsylvania
LOV E PE TS :KLOHYLVLWLQJWKH3HQQV\OYDQLD)DUP6KRZ0DF1HLOO
ZDONHGDURXQGSKRWRJUDSKLQJFKLOGUHQH[KLELWLQJ
ASSIGNMENT The animals we live and WKHOLYHVWRFNWKH\YHUDLVHG,QRQHEDUQVKHVDZ
ERQGZLWKFDQDHFWRXUHPRWLRQV:HDVNHG DJLUOO\LQJZLWKKHUKHLIHU0DQ\RIWKHDQLPDOVDUH
WRVHHWKHSRZHURISHWVLQ\RXUOLIH DXFWLRQHGR7KLVJLUOZDVDOORZHGWRNHHSKHUV
Nikon is a registered trademark of Nikon Corporation. 2017 Nikon Inc.

D7500 | f/7.1 | 24mm | 1/3200s | ISO 1000

I AM THE NEW NIKON D7500. When something fast moves you, capture it with something faster:
the D7500. With 8 fps continuous shooting speed and up to 1.64 million ISO for exceptional low-light
shooting, the more accessible D7500 offers the same image sensor and processing engine as our D500.
Switch to video mode when the moment calls and shoot in rich, detailed 4K UHD. The camera designed to
meet your artistic vision has arrived. Go chase! Visit nikonusa.com/d7500
| SPECIAL REPORT | W O R L D F O O D DAY, O C TO B E R 1 6
3,322

N o r t h
3,484
S e a

A T L A N T I C
IRELAND 3,590
O C E A N
UNITED STATES 3,729 calories/person/day
3,22
On average, people in the U.S. have
the most calories available* to them 3,414
on a daily basisthe equivalent of
one and a half large pepperoni pizzas.

LUXEMB

2,614
BELGIUM 3,719

3,071
2,658

DOM. REP. ST. KITTS & NEVIS 3,

2,375
3,227 1,988 2,480
Haiti has the FRANCE 3,545
2,770 worlds highest
prevalence of un- 2,261
GUATEMALA 2,773 dernourishment,
2,374 at 53 percent.
HONDURAS 2,987 PORTUGAL 3,516
3,243 IT
2,538

EL SALVADOR C a r i b b e a n 2,618 Me dit

2,573 2,866
S e a
NICARAGUA
2,420 2,780
GRENADA
2,377 3,051
C ALORIES COUNT 2,824
3,250

By Kelsey Nowakowski
PANAMA 2,842
2,444

The worlds farmers grow enough food

VENEZUELA 2,718
2,593
2,677
to end global hunger, but 795 million SENEGAL
2,687 2,321
people remain undernourished. Pov- 2,764 BURKINA FASO
erty keeps many from meeting the UN 2,643 CABO VERDE GAMBIA 2,545
BEN
2,498 2,551
Food and Agriculture Organizations 2,4
2,276 While undernourishment across
South America has decreased by more
recommended average intake of 2,353
than 75 percent since the early 1990s, the
2,285 GUINEA 2,287
2,473
calories a day. Access is the primary proportion of underweight children de-
PERU clined more slowly due, in part, to poor diet.
problem, says the FAOs Carlo Caero. 2,473 2,168
2,827
Political unrest, economic crises, and 3,107 2,150
natural disasters can snarl food dis- 2,145
tribution, creating pockets of scarcity 2,733
SAO TO
2
that exacerbate peoples struggle to 2,609
access food.
The world has made progress
against hunger. Undernourishment
2,918
has declined from 23 to 13 percent in
developing countries over the past
quarter century. Even so, what a coun-
try eats reects its economic status:
People in less prosperous nations get 2,907

more calories from grains or starchy

roots; in industrialized countries, an-
imal protein, fats, and sugar make up
a larger portion of meals.

3,135
 CALORIES PER PERSON
Daily average calories
3,234 available per capita COUNTRY
3,465 by country. Less than 2,300 2,300 to 2,599 2,600 to 2,899 2,900 to 3,199 3,200 to 3,500 More than 3,500
3,131

3,188 TOP FOOD SOURCE Sugar & fat Animal products Grains Produce
Text color indicates the leading Sugar and other Meat, eggs, Rice, wheat, Starchy roots,
B al t i c kinds of food available in the sweeteners, vegetable, dairy products, corn, oats, vegetables,
S e a 3,087 countrys daily supply. palm, and other oils animal fats other cereals fruits
3,366

22
3,385

3,460
3,112 3,196
3,405 3,141
BOURG 3,507 2,787
3,254 Natural disasters and a lack of
2,853 agricultural resources limit North Koreas
2,650
MONGOLIA food production; 42 percent of its people
3,071 2,333 are undernourished, compared with less
AUSTRIA 3,702 3,126 than 5 percent in South Korea.

3,340 2,842 UZBEKISTAN 2,130

2,523
426 3,129 2,946 2,669
2,775
2,813
3,175
3,020
2,934 2,799 2,048
2,938
China alone accounts for nearly
TALY 3,612
2,860 TURKEY 3,637 2,640
three-quarters of the total drop since
East
1,978 1990 in the number of undernour- C h i n a
3,367 ished people in developing countries. S e a
erran GREECE 3,537
2,633 3,171 NEPAL
ean IRAQ 3,051
PAKISTAN
Se 2,378
2,447
a 2,383
2,981
BANGLADESH
2,383
ISRAEL 3,583
1 INDIA
2,370
2,261
3,210
P A C I F I C
3,497 A quarter of the worlds 2,767
O C E A N
3,285
3,054
3,242 hungry people live in India, 2,256
which has the highest S o u t h
number of undernourished 2,712 VIETNAM C h i n a
2,848 people, at 195 million. B ay 2,528
NIGER 3,441
3,073
S e a
R

of CAMBODIA PHILIPPINES
e

2,457
2,504
d

2,136 Arabian B e n g a l 2,339

DJIBOUTI
S

S e a
e

2,033 2,306
NIN
a

479
Drought and political instability in SRI LANKA
East Africa have caused several famines 2,406 2,836
2,930
in the past quarter century in countries
such as Eritrea, Somalia, and Sudan. MALDIVES
2,547
2.673
INDONESIA
2,047 2,556
CAMEROON 1,974
2,047
2,380

2,247
OME & PR.
,444 2,114
2,174
2,084

2,715 2,120

2,265
I N D I A N SOLOMON IS. 2,924
2,149
1,870
O C E A N 2,421

2,129
Zambias daily food supply is
the lowest in the world. Inadequate 2,874
production plays a large role 2,792
in food insecurity there. 2,914
2,038

2,089 3,022 2,791

2,185 2,899
SWAZILAND
2,194 2,333 3,151

LESOTHO ALBERTO LUCAS LPEZ, NGM STAFF. SOURCE: CARLO CAFIERO, FAO
2,541
*THE FOOD SUPPLY THATS AVAILABLE BUT NOT ALWAYS ACCESSIBLE DUE TO ISSUES SUCH AS POVERTY AND DISTRI
%87,21'$7$)52072&28175,(67+$7%52.(83'85,1*7+(678'<3(5,2'25)25:+,&+'$7$
ARE NOT AVAILABLE ARE EXCLUDED FROM THE MAP; SELECTED TERRITORIES AND OTHER REGIONS ARE INCLUDED.
2,947 3,150
 To sustainably nourish the world, Cargill creates connections EN
calories simply arent enough. across the global food TO
To n
system. We join farmers
How can we get safe, with markets, customers
to m
adv
kee
affordable, nutritious food with healthier ingredients
and people with the food
esse
to n

to a growing population? they need to thrive.

2017 Cargill, Incorporated
NSURING ACCESS PREVENTING FOOD LOSS PROVIDING SUSTAINABLE
O FOOD AND WASTE NUTRITION
nourish the world, food must be able To both nourish the world and protect the We need a food system that is good for people,
move to where its needed most. We planet, we cant afford to let anything go animals and the environment. Cargill develops
vocate for responsible trade because it to waste yet tons of food are lost and innovative approaches for sustainable food and
ps our food system connected and is wasted each year. Cargill is innovating animal feed solutions that drive healthier lives
ential to a more sustainable approach to ensure efficiency throughout the food and stronger communities so people in both
nourishing a growing population. system from the time food leaves the field rural and urban areas have the nutrients they
to when it reaches peoples tables. need to lead productive, balanced lives.

Learn more about how were

helping a growing world thrive at
Cargill.com/sustainability
 E X P LO R E
ANIMALS

D O YO U R E A L LY
K N O W YO U R C AT ?
By Nina Strochlic

For those whove long wondered if

their cats regard them merely as kibble
dispensers, a report in the journal Be-
havioural Processes should be reassuring.
In a study that exposed adult cats to four
categories of stimulifood, toy, scent,
and human social interactionthe ma-
jority of cats preferred human interaction
over all other options, even food.
This type of research was done on
dogs in the 90s but not on cats until
now, says Oregon State Universitys
Kristyn Vitale Shreve, a co-author of the
study. Were trying to catch up. Cats are
stereotyped in the U.S. as untrainable
and unsocial, she says, but they can be
taught using the same general principles
as dogsso long as the incentives are
right. Vitales next study will research
how to use cats preferences to train them.
What else dont we know about cats?
For instance, is the kitten in this photo-
graph scared or playful? (Answer: Its
leaping at a toy dangling in front of the
camera.) Cat emotions are notoriously
hard to decipher: A new study in Ita-
ly by veterinary scientists found that
most owners dont recognize the range
of signals cats use to show stress. Dog
owners know more about dog behavior,
says author Chiara Mariti. In contrast,
cat owners often interpret their pets
behavior as normal to the species, rather
than a signal about how theyre doing.
Scientists are working hard to solve
such feline mysteries. Last year a Swed-
ish university launched a ve-year study
into human-cat communication. The
goal: to see if cats react to dierent ways
humans speak to them, and to translate
meows into emotions and desires.
T H E S C I E N C E O F C AT S
Independent Streak: When dogs and
cats were tasked with solving a puzzle,
a study in the Journal of Comparative
Psychology found, dogs looked to
humans for help with an impossible
task while cats kept trying on their own.

Cat Transit: By analyzing mitochondrial

DNA in the remains of some 200 ancient
cats, researchers in France found that
IHOLQHVVSUHDGDFURVVWKHZRUOGUVWZLWK
farmers from the Fertile Crescent and
then with sailors trading around the globe.

PHOTO: SETH CASTEEL

| E X P LO R E | ANIMALS

scenario emerged. When he compared What the fashionable

H OW V E R T E B R AT E S the naked lizards and their scaly kin, vertebrates are wearing,
G OT T H E I R COAT S he saw to his shock placode-like bumps
from left: the fur of a
leopard, the feathers of
dotting the skin of scaled embryos. Na- a male Lady Amhersts
By Michael Greso pheasant, and the scales
ked embryos, however, stayed smooth.
In 2016 Milinkovitch announced of a rock python
From scales to feathers to fur, verte- that the bumps were indeed placodes,
brates clothe themselves in a dazzling placing the structures in reptiles, birds,
variety of textures and hues. But sci- and mammals common ancestors more
entists have shown that many of those than 300 million years ago. And since
coverings emerge from the same ana- placodes buzz with genes that also sculpt
tomical hardware. teeth and sh scales, some scientists
Biologists have long known that feath- think that placodes arose in the earliest
ers and hairs both start as structures vertebratesa remarkable conserva-
called placodes. In reptiles, however, tism, argues Universit Grenoble Alpes
biologists had found distinct skin areas biologist Danielle Dhouailly, going back
that yielded scales but no placodes. The 420 million years.
absence proved puzzling, since birds Milinkovitch also found that naked
are more closely related to reptiles than bearded dragons lack scales because
to mammals. Had birds and mammals theyre missing working copies of a
evolved placodes independently? Or gene crucial to placode formation. As
had todays reptiles discarded them? he noted with a chuckle, that brings
Then University of Geneva biologist his discovery full circle: This animal
Michel Milinkovitch visited an Italian doesnt have scales, because it cannot
animal fair, found scaleless, naked make what people thought didnt exist
bearded dragons for saleand a third in reptiles.

PHOTOS: DAVID LIITTSCHWAGER

| E X P LO R E | ANIMALS

smells. Activity in the reward center THE SCIENCE

GETTING INSIDE
can show whether dogs prefer human OF DOGS
FIDOS HEAD aection to food (most like both equally),
and which ones may not be t for duty Baby Talk Like human
By Nina Strochlic infants, puppies re-
as service dogs (if, for example, they get
too anxious or excited with strangers). spond better to high-
When a dog leaped from a helicopter Now Berns wants to know how dogs pitched human speech
than to low-pitched.
to accompany the U.S. SEAL team on learn human language: When a dog
Researchers in New
the raid of Osama bin Ladens complex hears a word, is it just an auditory stim-
York and France found
in 2011, Gregory Berns was inspired. I ulus, or does it go deeper to have some that pitch may actually
thought, If dogs can jump out of heli- sort of meaning? To nd out, hes spent help puppies learn
copters, we can train them to go into a year watching dogs brain activity while wordsbut by adult-
an MRI, he recalls. The next year the they hear familiar and nonsense words. hood, dogs no longer
neuroscientist launched the Dog Project Because canine brain structures and prefer a higher octave.
at Emory University, which was the rst processes are potentially as unique and
In the Groove
to teach dogs to lie still without sedation complex as ours, it will require years of
Humans and their ca-
in an MRI scanner so their brains can tests to decipher how they work. When
nine companions both
be studied. we talk about dogs, thats about as de-
QGVRODFHLQPXVLF
By peering into a dogs brain, re- scriptive as talking about people, says Researchers from the
searchers are able to see how it reacts Berns. Dogs are just as dierent from University of Glasgow
to stimuli like hand signals, sounds, and each other as humans are. SXWRQYHGLHUHQW
playlists for kennel
dogs while monitoring
their stress. Although
UHDFWLRQVGLHUHGWKH
music had a calming
HHFWSDUWLFXODUO\
soft rock and reggae.

Test Tube Pups

After decades of test-
ing, researchers at the
Smithsonian Institution
and Cornell University
produced a litter of
pups using in vitro
fertilization. Scientists
hope to apply the tech-
nique to tackle genetic
diseases that dogs and
humans share.

In the Family When it

comes to social intelli-
gence, toddlers show
patterns more similar
to dogs than to chim-
panzees, even though
chimps are more close-
ly related to humans. In
some communication
tasks, University of
Arizona scientists
found that both dogs
and kids performed
better than chimps.

PHOTO: ELKE VOGELSANG

| E X P LO R E | ANIMALS

SPOTS AND Think of flamboyance in the animal more than a decade studying zebras
kingdom, and a colorful menagerie in Tanzania. He ruled out theory after
STRIPES springs to mind: a parrots rainbow theorystripes dont keep them cool,
ARE NOT plumage or the showy scales of a tropical stripes dont confuse predatorsbefore
S O B L A C K- sh. Mammals tend to be less colorful nding an answer. In 2013 in the savanna,
AND-WHITE than other animal groups, but some are he set up ytraps covered in zebra skin
strikingly attired in black-and-white. and, for comparison, others draped in
By Natasha Daly What purpose do such high-contrast wildebeest skin. He saw that ies didnt
patterns serve? The color schemes util- seem to like landing on the stripes. After
ity isnt always apparent. Deciphering more research he concluded that stripes
what zebras gain from having stripes can literally save a zebras hide from
has puzzled scientists for more than disease-carrying pests.
a century. Black-and-white may not be as eye-
To try to solve the mystery, wildlife popping as uorescent scalesbut it can
biologist Tim Caro of UC Davis spent pay o for the mammals that sport it.

GIANT PANDA
Communicative Patchwork
Recent insights into panda coloring have come
from studying each body part separately. Black
ears indicate ferocity, and distinct eye patches
aid in individual recognition. The pandas white
ERG\FDPRXDJHVLWDJDLQVWVQRZZKLOHLWVGDUN
limbs help it hide in forests, a compromise derived
from its poor bamboo diet. Bamboo doesnt let
pandas build up enough fat to hibernate, forcing
them to spend winters in the snow.

Why Black-and-White?
Warning
Communication (within own species)
Concealment
Physical regulation

DAISY CHUNG, NGM STAFF; KELSEY NOWAKOWSKI

SOURCE: TIM CARO, UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, DAVIS
BADGER
A Ferocious Mask
Even when a badger is crouched
in its burrow, its bold facial stripes
may be seen. Zoologists say the
warning coloration helps the
small mammal deter predators.

ZEBRA
Stripes, No Bites
Zebras thin coats make
%/$&.%8&.0$/( them more vulnerable
than long-haired animals
Hiding in His Own Shadow
WRELWLQJLHVWKDWFDUU\
In bright sun the bucks white disease. But the coats
stomach counteracts the shadow VWULSHVGHWHULHVIURP
cast by his back, allowing the landing on zebras, for
animal to appear one color reasons that scientists
and two-dimensional. are still investigating.

SKUNK
Black, White, and Smelly
Depending on the species, black
skunks may wear white spots
WKDWDFWDVFDPRXDJHRUZKLWH
stripes that signal enemies to
beware their smelly spray.
| E X P LO R E | ANIMALS

Brookes University examined a hundred RESCUING THE

BOR N TO B E WILD
online videos of pet lorises and conclud- S LO W LO R I S
By Jani Actman ed that all the animals were distressed, This female Nycticebus
sick, or exposed to unnatural conditions. bengalensis was photo-
graphed in 2014 at the
Theyre quite sensitive, says Christine Endangered Primate
After videos of slow lorises (below) Rattel of International Animal Rescue, Rescue Center, located
being tickled and fed rice balls in cap- which runs a slow loris rescue program in a national park in
tivity swept the Internet, the wide- in Indonesia. They are nocturnal, small northern Vietnam.
The center rescues and
eyed animals shot to viral fame. The animals that dont like to be handled. rehabilitates injured and
YouTube videos generated thousands Its uncertain how many slow lorises illegally traded animals.
of comments about the primates ador- remain in the wild, but conservationists When possible, it re-
leases slow lorises into
able looks, but they also highlighted say populations have declined because the forested park, some
a grievous threat facing slow lorises: the pet trade continues to run rampant. with trackable collars
demand for them as pets. Habitat loss also has taken a toll, as has so their reentry can
be monitored. Center
All species of slow lorises are sup- poaching for traditional Asian medicine,
director Sonya Prosser
posed to be protected by local laws in which ascribes therapeutic properties to says this slow loris was
southern Asia and by the Convention the animals body parts. An ongoing pet released in 2015, and
on International Trade in Endangered trade would really push lorises to the as far as we know,
she is still out there.
Species (CITES), a treaty that aims to brink of extinction, Rattel says.
prevent trade that could threaten wild Theyre hardly the only wildlife fac-
species survival. Still, countless slow ing this threat. Cheetahs, lions, and
lorises are captured each year from their other famed species end up in base-
rain forest habitat and sold online, across ments and backyards, as do lesser
borders, or to local wildlife markets. known creatures such as the ball python
Customers nd them irresistible, but and long-tailed macaque.
these primates dont fare well as pets. Be- The pet trade is probably one of the
fore theyre sold, most undergo a painful most devastating parts of the wildlife
process to remove their sharp teethand trade, says wildlife-tracking expert
circumstances dont improve from there. Chris Shepherd. But its getting the least
In a 2016 study, researchers from Oxford amount of attention.
 R OA D TO YO U R
THE E D W I T H
I S PAV
HAPPY PLACE D FLAKES.
RAISINS AN MENT.
AND PAVE
, TM, 2016 Kellogg NA Co.
| E X P LO R E | ANIMALS

operations, says North Carolina State The honeybee Apis

BACKU P B E E S ? University entomologist David Tarpy. mellifera (above) is native
to Europe, the Middle East,
Colony collapse in general could and Africa. Now one of the
By Catherine Zuckerman
be devastating to food production. So PRVWKLJKSUROHEHHVLQ
scientists are looking for alternatives. North America, A. mellifera
is in uncertain health.
A honeybee queen, when all is right in Most honeybees in the U.S. today are of
her world, should live for two to three Italian heritage and vulnerable to a pest
years. But in the United States, bee- called the varroa mite. But Russian bees
keepers have seen that life span drop by are more resistant to it, and backyard
more than half over the past decade, and beekeepers have had success with them.
researchers are trying to determine why. The problem, says Tarpy, is that Russian
Its one of many questions surrounding honeybees dont make as much honey
the mystery of honeybee mortality, a as their Italian counterparts and arent
disturbing phenomenon thats linked as amenable to the migratory nature of
to a mix of factors, including parasites, pollinating large-scale farms.
pesticides, and habitat loss. Another option, says wildlife biolo-
Aside from making a delicious natural gist Sam Droege of the U.S. Geological
sweetener, honeybeeswhich are not Survey, is to embrace the thousands of
native to the U.S.also provide a crucial North American wild bee species, which
service to agriculture: pollination. From are excellent pollinators, rarely sting,
apples to almonds, many crops would and are typically the size of a grain of
suer without honeybees. And while rice. The drawback for some people is
about 90 percent of beekeepers in this that none of the wild bee species produce
country are hobbyists, the majority of honey. But, says Droege, we can always
hives belong to large-scale, commercial get honey from other countries.

PHOTO: USGS BEE INVENTORY AND MONITORING LABORATORY

KNOB CREEK KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON WHISKEY, 50% ALC./VOL. 2017 KNOB CREEK DISTILLERY, CLERMONT, KY.
| E X P LO R E | ANIMALS

chin movements theyd observed. The

S O T H AT S W H Y result: a gestural map that suggests evo-
T H E LO N G FAC E lutionary parallels among varied species.
Jennifer Wathan, the studys lead
By Jeremy Berlin author, says the similarities between
horse movements and human ones are
Lets face it: When it comes to expres- striking. They include raising inner eye-
sions, a horse is no one-trick pony. brows (puppy-dog eyes) to show fear,
Recent ndings have revealed that our surprise, or sadness; pulling back lip cor-
equine friends use 17 discrete facial ners (smiling) in greeting or submission;
movements to communicate. Thats 10 and opening eyes wide to indicate alarm.
fewer than humansbut one more than Wathan says these ndings can help
dogs and four more than chimpanzees. us better understand interspecies rela-
Researchers at the University of Sussex tionships. Systems like EquiFACS create
discovered this by dissecting a horse a common language to objectively make
head and identifying the musculature comparisons across specieseven those
below its facial features. Then they with totally dierent-shaped faces.
An Arabian horse looks
watched behavioral footage15 hours Her teams research, which is already around its stable in the
of video showing 86 male and female helping veterinarians and trainers, could United Arab Emirates.
horses, from a variety of breeds, ranging also connect facial expressions to emo- Horses are visual animals
in age from four weeks to 27 years. tional states. We dont know much they see better than cats
and dogswith communi-
The last step was to use a tool called about the emotional lives of animals, cation skills that evolved to
EquiFACS (Equine Facial Action Coding she says. What does a positive emotion keep family groups together.
System) to catalog the eye, lip, nostril, and look like? This tool could help us see it. PHOTO: TIM FLACH
 Set your dog free from grains with
BLUE Freedom.

Made with only the highest quality

ingredients and none of the grains
that contain gluten, BLUE Freedom
2017 Blue Buffalo Co., Ltd.

is grain-free at its finest.

We all want our dogs and cats to look and feel their best.
For some of our furry friends, that means being on a
grain-free diet, which is why we created BLUE Freedom.
It always features real meat and has none of the grains
that contain gluten. Plus, BLUE Freedom has no corn,
wheat or soy and no artificial preservatives or flavors.
If you think your dog or cat can do better on a grain-free
diet, you cant do better than BLUE Freedom.

SetYourPetsFree.com
Available for dogs and cats at your favorite pet specialty store.

Love them like family. Feed them like family.

| E X P LO R E | ANIMALS

C E L E B R I T Y S TAT U S binomial nomenclature systemstill

in useidenties each distinct organ-
By Catherine Zuckerman ism using a two-part name: its genus,
or group, name, followed by its specic,
Of the roughly 18,000 new species dis- or species, name. Think Homo sapiens.
covered each year, a few have a certain Today animal species names follow
star quality. In 2008, when an orange- guidelines set by a governing body called
haired, ornately patterned spider the International Commission on Zoolog-
was found in Malaysia, it was named ical Nomenclature. The person who nds SPIDER ODDITY
Heteropoda davidbowie. In 2010 a whale a new species is free to name it, and some David Bowie called his
bandmates the Spiders
fossil made a splash when it was dubbed take inspiration from famous gures. From Marsbut the real
Leviathan melvillei. Theres a rare Aus- Attaching a celebritys name could spider called Heteropoda
tralian horsefly that goes by Scaptia benet an at-risk species or habitat by davidbowie (above) hails
from Southeast Asia. The
beyonceae and a tree frog from Ecuador drawing attention to it. Naming can also scientist who found the
called Hyloscirtus princecharlesi. be simply a science-nerdy form of at- orange-haired species
Scientists have been formally nam- tery. German aracologist Peter Jger named it in 2008 to honor
Bowie (who died in 2016)
ing species since the middle of the 18th says he named his spider H. davidbowie
and his orange-haired
century, when Swedish biologist Carl for both purposes. Of course, he says alter ego, Ziggy Stardust.
Linnaeus paved the taxonomic way. His of the singer-songwriter, Im a big fan.

ART: HANOCH PIVEN

PHOTO: MARIANNE BROUWER, NATURE IN STOCK
The early discoveries that drew National Geographics attention occurred with no cameras present. Jane
Goodall disliked being photographed but would come to accept it as a way to gain support for her work.

GETTY IMAGES
Becoming Jane
She was a novice
scientist who
became famous
because of her
groundbreaking
studies of
chimpanzees.
Newly revealed
images shed light
on how she did it,
the compromises
she made, and
the photographer
she loved.

31
G E T T I N G T H E S H OT 7KHVHIUDPHVDUHIURPUHHOVRIOPRXWWDNHVWKDWZHUHIRXQGLQVWRUDJH
LQ7KH\ZHUHVKRWLQWKHHDUO\VDW*RPEH6WUHDP*DPH5HVHUYHLQZKDWLVQRZ7DQ]DQLDE\
FLQHPDWRJUDSKHU+XJRYDQ/DZLFN1DWLRQDO*HRJUDSKLFDVVLJQHG+XJRWRGRFXPHQWFKLPSEHKDYLRUV
ALL FILM FOOTAGE BY HUGO VAN LAWICK
EXWDOVRWROPDQGSKRWRJUDSKZKDWWKH\FDOOHGKXPDQLQWHUHVW-DQHSOD\LQJZLWKWKHFKLPSVDQG
HYHQZDVKLQJKHUKDLU+XJRDQG-DQHGLVOLNHGVXFKIULYRORXVVFHQHVEXWWKH\ZHQWDORQJZLWKWKH
UHTXHVWVWRNHHSWKHIXQGLQJIRU-DQHVUHVHDUFKRZLQJIURPWKH1DWLRQDO*HRJUDSKLF6RFLHW\
T H E S H O OT E R
AS SUBJECT
Hugohere enjoying a
cigar while hanging from
a Gombe treewas a
perfectionist, much to
Janes frustration. He
wouldnt photograph
even remarkable chimp
behavior if the light and
exposure werent right.
Always innovating, Hugo
scattered sand from the
beach on the ground at
Gombes feeding station
EHFDXVHLWUHHFWHGOLJKW
into the chimps faces.
Jane eventually got a
Super 8mm camera
VRWKDWVKHFRXOGOP
chimps at any moment,
regardless of the lighting.

JANE GOODALL INSTITUTE

BECOMING JANE 35
 N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C D O C U M E N TA R Y F I L M S
'LUHFWHGE\%UHWW0RUJHQZLWKPXVLFE\FRPSRVHU3KLOLS*ODVVWKHIHDWXUH
GRFXPHQWDU\ JANEXVHVQHYHUEHIRUHVHHQIRRWDJHWRWHOO*RRGDOOVOLIH
VWRU\1DWLRQDO*HRJUDSKLFUHOHDVHVWKHOPLQVHOHFWWKHDWHUVWKLVPRQWK

BY TONY GERBER
PHOTOGRAPHS BY HUGO VAN LAWICK

You may have heard my story before,

Jane Goodall told her audience at a 2015 lecture. But its like a campre taleit gets
better with each telling. Her story is instantly recognizable from the many times its
been written, broadcast, or otherwise sent into the world: A young Englishwoman
conducts chimpanzee research in Africa and winds up revolutionizing primate sci-
ence. But how did it happen? How did a woman with a passion for animals but no
formal background in research navigate the male-dominated worlds of science
and media to make enormous discoveries in her eld, and become a world-
famous face of the conservation movement? This is that story.

Jane became widely known because of a lm,

Miss Goodall and the Wild Chimpanzees, which
came out in 1965 and was produced by National
Geographic. She hasnt seen it in years. But now
Im playing it for her on a laptop at the West Lon-
don home of a friend. The primatologist, 83 this
year, studies her 28-year-old self. AFRICA
Think how fun it would be to be that age
again, Jane says with a smile. The young Jane
on the screen is hiking through the forest of KENYA
Nairobi
Gombe Stream Game Reserve in what is now GOMBE N.P.
Tanzania. Shes wearing high-top canvas sneak- Lake
Tanganyika
TANZANIA
ers and khaki shorts, and her blond hair is in the
ponytail that became her signature. She appears
to be doing eld researchbut in reality, Jane
says, she was reenacting events from her rst six
months at Gombe so that photographer Hugo
van Lawick could lm them. Those months had
been a remarkable period of solitude and discov-
ery, a time before cameras were present. Theyve NGM MAPS

REALITY TV
Once Jane and Hugo married, the focus of the human interest
frame widened to include them both. This shot required a second
FDPHUDWRWHOOWKHVWRU\RIWKHFRXSOHVOPPDNLQJFROODERUDWLRQ
DW*RPEH7KH\EHFDPHDUJXDEO\WKHUVWUHDOLW\79FRXSOH

BECOMING JANE 37
 N OT E S A N D
O B S E R VAT I O N S
$W*RPEH-DQHOOHG
WKHHOGQRWHERRNVVKH
carried every day with
words and sketches. In
the early days she typed
up the notes by lamplight.
The chimp she named
David Greybeard (right)
ZDVWKHUVWWRYLVLWKHU
in camp and allow her to
touch him. In time David
brought cohorts along,
looking for bananas or
cloth. The chimps had a
penchant for dish towels
and aprons, which they
enjoyed sucking on. Here
he explores the contents
of a storage box.

been present in her life ever since. program is in nearly a hundred countries, train-
National Geographic executives had specical- ing young people to be conservation leaders. And
ly told Hugo which shots to get, Jane remembers: Jane still travels about 300 days a year to lobby
They gave us a list: Jane in the boat, Jane with governments, visit schools, and give speeches.
binoculars, Jane looking at a map. When Miss Jane has been the subject of more than 40
Goodall and the Wild Chimpanzees was broad- lms and has made countless appearances on
cast on CBS on December 22, 1965, an estimated television. Now she is the subject of a new Na-
25 million North American viewers tuned ina tional Geographic Documentary Films release
huge audience, then and now. about her life and work. The two-hour feature,
The exposure brought Jane international JANE, draws from never before seen footage to
acclaim and ignited what became a legend- offer a revealing portrait of the woman whose de-
ary career in primatology. In Jane, National votion to chimpanzees made her famous.
Geographic found a telegenic researcher and When Hugo rst went to Gombe in 1962 to
storyteller with a lm-ready setup: an attractive document Janes discoveries, he shot thousands
white woman doing scientic work in the African of still images and more than 65 hours of 16mm
bush. It was especially poignant at a time when lm footage. A fraction of the work made its way
women typically were discouraged from pursu- into the 1965 television special and National
ing careers in science. Geographic magazine. What the editors didnt
Since then, Jane has completed a Ph.D. at use, the outtakes, went into lm cans and boxes
Cambridge University, authored dozens of books, for storage and over time were forgotten. In 2015
mentored new generations of scientists, promot- they were found in an underground storage fa-
ed conservation in the developing world, and cility in rural Pennsylvania. These precious rolls
established several sanctuaries for chimps. To- of lm held the promise of something rare: a new
day the Jane Goodall Institutes Roots & Shoots perspective on Jane. On lm, every so often at

SKETCH: COURTESY JANE GOODALL

PHOTO: JANE GOODALL INSTITUTE
the end of a take, she drops her serious persona same: She would endure slights, accommodate
and glances directly at the lenstoward Hugo, demands, tolerate fools, make sacricesif it
her director. In these few instances, we see the served to sustain her work.
stirrings of love for the man behind the camera.
Taken together, this trove of material provides FROM HER CHILDHOOD in England, Valerie
an intimate view of Jane at a pivotal time: When Jane Morris-Goodall professed a deep love of
a young woman who had known Africa only from animals and a desire to work with them in Afri-
Tarzan and Dr. Dolittle books was dropped into ca. Her family lacked the means to send her to
her fantasy, and when a novice scientists discov- college, so Jane went to secretarial school. She
eries debunked long-held beliefs about humans worked at Oxford and then for a documentary
closest living relatives. lm company in London. In the summer of 1956
At Gombe, Jane withstood all manner of nat- she returned home, where she waited tables to
ural threats: malaria, parasites, snakes, storms. save for an ocean passage to Kenya.
But in her dealings with the wider world, the In Nairobi she boldly asked for an appointment
challenges often required shrewd strategy and with paleoanthropologist Louis S. B. Leakey,
delicate diplomacy. Early in her career, Jane whose interest in great apes grew from his pio-
had to contend with a primarily male science es- neering research into human origins. Leakey
tablishment that didnt take her seriously; with hired Jane on the spot to do secretarial work and
media executives whose support hinged on her saw in her the makings of a scientist. He arranged
willingness to be scripted and glamorized; with for her to study primates while he raised funds
men who said theyd be her partner or patron but so she could conduct chimpanzee eld research
also sought control, concessions, or relationships in Tanzania.
that she did not want. And within months of their rst meeting, he
Through it all, Janes philosophy seemed the told Jane he was in love with her.

BECOMING JANE 39
 THE MAKING OF

In 1957 a young Jane Goodall travels to Africa and

meets the eminent paleontologist Louis Leakey.
Three years later he assigns her to study chimpanzee
behavior in Tanzania, where she discovers that
chimpanzees make and use tools, and eat meat.
Her ndings spark worldwide interest
and upend the conventional wisdom
on the exceptionalism of humans.
At age 23 Jane
travels to Kenya to
visit a friends family. Jane begins work in Gombe
An animal lover, she Stream Game Reserve, where
is advised to seek VKHQGVWKDWFKLPSDQ]HHVPDNH
out Louis Leakey. and use tools, and eat meat.

When told of Janes discovery, Leakey

responds via telegram: Now we must
UHGHQHWRROUHGHQHPDQRUDFFHSW
19 FKLPSDQ]HHVDVKXPDQ
57
19
58
Jane enters Cambridge University Jane delivers her
19 as a Ph.D. candidate, one of the UVWSXEOLFOHFWXUH
59
few people ever to be admitted in the U.S. at DAR
Valerie Jane without a college degree. Constitution Hall in
19
Morris-Goodall 60 Washington, D.C.
born April 3, 1934 Jane establishes Jane meets Dian
London, England 196 the Gombe Stream Fossey, another
1
Jane and Hugo wed. Research Center Leakey protg.
196 with funding from
Hugo Arndt Rodolf 2
National Geographic.
Baron van Lawick 1963
born April 10, 1937 Jane earns a
Surabaya, Indonesia 19 6 4 Ph.D. in ethology.
At Leakeys urging, Hugo 19 65
is sent on assignment by 1966
National Geographic to
photograph Janes research.

My Life Among New Discoveries

Wild Chimpanzees Among Africas
Article by Jane Chimpanzees
Photographs Article by Jane
by Hugo Photographs
by Hugo

Miss Goodall and the

Wild Chimpanzees
Movie by Jane and Hugo
The fruits of teamwork
$WUVWUHOXFWDQWWRKDYHDSKRWRJUD-
pher document her research, Jane
partners with Hugo in work, and later
LQPDUULDJH6KHPDNHVVLJQLFDQW
discoveries about animal behavior.
 A chimpanzee named Flo nibbles
termites from a blade of grass.
The Jane Goodall Institute, devoted
to wildlife conservation, is established.
Its work continues today.

Hugo and Jane Four researchers from Gombe

feeding Grub in the Gombe Research are kidnapped by rebels from
Serengeti, 1968 Center becomes Zaire (modern Democratic
independent of Republic of the Congo), then
National Geographic. freed 40 days later.

Jane and 77
19
Louis Leakey dies. Hugo divorce.
6
1 97
7 5
Jane and Hugo 19
Jane joins the faculty become estranged. 74
19
at Stanford University
and starts the Stanford 3
197
Outdoor Primate Facility.
2
Hugo Eric Louis, Gombe Stream Game 197
DHFWLRQDWHO\ Reserve becomes
known as Grub, Gombe National Park. 1971
is born in 1 9 70 The Wild Dogs Hugo dies on
Nairobi, Kenya. of Africa June 2, 2002
19 6 9
Movie by Jane Dar es Salaam,
19 68
1967 and Hugo Tanzania

My Friends, the Wild Innocent In the Shadow Solo: The Story

Chimpanzees Killers of Man of an African
Book by Jane Book by Jane Book by Jane Wild Dog
Photographs and Hugo Photographs Book by Hugo
by Hugo Photographs by Hugo Editing by Jane
by Hugo Photographs
by Hugo

Tool-Using Bird: Grub the

Egyptian Vulture Bush Baby
Opens Ostrich Eggs Book by Jane
Article by Jane Photographs
and Hugo by Hugo
Photographs
by Hugo JASON TREAT, NGM STAFF; MEG ROOSEVELT
ART: JOE MCKENDRY
SOURCES: JANE GOODALL INSTITUTE;
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY
 Jane wrote to others that she was horried
by the overture from Leakey, who was 30 years
her senior and married. For months after Jane
told him rmly that shed never return his feel-
ings, Leakey still sent her love letters.
In an interview years later with Virginia Mo-
rell, author of a book on the Leakey family, Jane
said that what I was most afraid of was what my
rejection of him might mean for my study of the
chimpanzees. But Leakey never withdrew his
supportand by the summer of 1960 Jane was
setting up camp in the Gombe Stream Reserve
near the shores of Lake Tanganyika, with enough
funding for six months of eldwork. Because gov-
ernment officials wouldnt allow a lone female to
live in the reserve, Vanne Morris-Goodall came
along as her daughters chaperone.
From the start Jane followed her instincts
for conducting research. Not knowing that the
established scientific practice was to use
numbers to identify animals under study, she
recorded observations of the chimps by names
she concocted: Fi, Flo, Mr. McGregor, David
Greybeard. She wrote about the chimps as
individuals with distinct traits and personal-
itiesfor example, when a female she called
Mrs. Maggs was preparing a treetop nest for the
night, Jane wrote that the chimp had tested
the branches exactly the way a person tests the
springs of a hotel bed.
She spent most waking hours locating the
animals through her binoculars, then trying to
draw gradually closer so theyd get used to her
presence as she sat jotting notes. But with one
month left in the study grant, she hadnt made
the kind of signicant discovery she felt would
justify Leakeys faith in her.
As her study was approaching its end, Jane
made three discoveries that would not only make
A F E E D I N G S T R AT E GY Leakey proud but would also turn established
Jane sits on the concrete foundation of science on its head.
the new feeding station she and Hugo In her rst discovery, she observed a chimp
built, up the hill from their lakefront gnawing on the carcass of a small animal, which
FDPS7KH\UVWSXWWKHIHHGLQJVWDWLRQ belied the prevailing belief that apes didnt eat
near camp, to draw chimps to observe
DQGOP$IWHUWKHFKLPSVGHPDQGIRU
meat. The chimp was memorable for his promi-
bananas became aggressive, they nent gray goatee, and she would name him David
moved the site farther away. Greybeard. He in turn would open the door for her

42 N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C O C T O B E R 2 0 1 7
 E V E RYO N E S A C R I T I C
Jane shows a photo of an adult chimp
to infant Flint. Before Hugo built a
darkroom at Gombe, he had to ship
H[SRVHGOPWR:DVKLQJWRQ'&
to be developed. It would be weeks
to the hidden world of Gombes chimpanzees. before hed receive feedback on the
Within two weeks Jane observed David Grey- photos exposure or subject matter.
beard again, but this time what she witnessed
was truly game-changing. Squatting by a termite
mound, he picked a blade of grass and poked it
into a tunnel. When he pulled it out, it was cov-
ered with termites, which he slurped down. In
another instance, Jane saw him pick a twig and
strip it of leaves before using it to sh for ter-
mites. David Greybeard had exhibited tool use
and toolmakingtwo things that previously only
humans were believed capable of.
When Jane cabled the news to Louis Leakey,
he sent this response:

NOW WE MUST REDEFINE TOOL STOP

REDEFINE MAN STOP
OR ACCEPT CHIMPANZEES AS HUMAN

In the wake of these discoveries, National Geo-

graphic gave Jane a grant to continue her work
at Gombe.

AS JANE BEGAN to write up and publish her eld

research, she met with skepticism from the sci-
entic community. After all, she had no science
trainingno degree other than a secretarial cer-
ticate affirming that she could touch-type.
In the spring of 1962, Jane gave a presentation
at the Zoological Society of Londons primate
symposium and impressed many in attendance,
including zoologist and author Desmond Mor-
ris. But she also faced derision. A society officer
delivered a thinly veiled critique of her work as
anecdote and speculation that made no real
contribution to science. An Associated Press
report began with this: A willowy blonde with
more time for monkeys than men told today how
she spent 15 months in the jungle to study the
habits of the apes.
A photographic record of Janes discoveries
would put them beyond dispute. But Jane re-
buffed National Geographics request to send
a photographer, saying a stranger might dis-
rupt the relationship she was building with the
chimps. After spending months getting close
enough to even be in camera range, I want to
)OLQWZDVWKHUVWLQIDQWERUQDW*RPEHDIWHU-DQHDUULYHG:LWKKLPVKHKDGDJUHDWRSSRUWXQLW\WRVWXG\FKLPS
developmentand to have physical contact, which is no longer deemed appropriate with chimps in the wild.

HUGO VAN LAWICK, NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC CREATIVE

do my own photosor have a jolly good try, she program at Cambridge Universityshe was one
wrote in a letter home. of the few individuals without an undergraduate
National Geographic shipped a camera and degree to ever be admittedand he asked Na-
several rolls of lm to Africa with detailed in- tional Geographic to support Jane as she wrote
structions on how to use them. Jane made a up her Gombe research and worked on her
valiant effort. But her dark-furred subjects tend- dissertation.
ed to hide in the shadows, and the photos she When the Geographic turned down the re-
submitted werent up to the magazine editors quest, saying, this lady is unqualied in the
standards. Again, editors pressed to send a Geo- sense that she holds no degree of any university,
graphic photographer, and again Jane held them an outraged Leakey red off a memo listing her
off: Her younger sister, Judy, had photography accomplishments. National Geographic officials
experience, and the two looked and sounded gave Jane the requested grant, but as part of the
enough alike that the chimps might not be upset deal, she agreed to welcome a professional pho-
by the sisters presence. tographer to Gombe. On Leakeys recommen-
Louis Leakey underwrote Judys trip to dation, National Geographic hired Hugo van
Gombe, covering the expense by selling rights Lawick for the job.
to print the rst pictures to a British weekly. The opportunity to work at Gombe with Jane
Ultimately the Geographics editors found her would be a huge break for the 25-year-old Dutch-
photos unsatisfactory too. man, who had some experience in natural his-
National Geographic magazine wanted tory lmmaking. Jane wrote to a friend that she
Jane to write an article about her workbut it actually looked forward to his arrival because
couldnt go forward without good pictures of shed been told that Hugo was a rst-class pho-
the animals, an editor warned. Jane understood tographer, wonderful with animalswell, its just
that if she couldnt get her work covered in the too good to be true.
magazine, her funding from the National Geo- When I interviewed Jane in 2015, she insisted
graphic Society could be in jeopardy. that Louis was denitely matchmaking when he
Leakey had helped Jane get into a Ph.D. sent Hugo. Theres no question, and he admitted

46 N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C O C T O B E R 2 0 1 7
H U G O S
AUDITION
Jane captured chimp
images with pen and
SDSHU+XJRXVHGOP
At National Geographic
in Washington for his
job interview, Hugo was
handed a camera and
told to shoot some
frames around town as
a tryout. I shoot animals,
QRWSHRSOHKHUHVSRQG-
ed. When the Geograph-
ic editors persisted,
Hugo made his way to
the National Zoo. Editors
particularly liked a photo
he made there of a
pelican; they hired him
for the job at Gombe.

it. Jane believes that Leakeys enduring love for laptop, weve come to the hair-washing scene.
her was seless in the end. Even today, it doesnt sit well with Jane.
Hugo reached Gombe in August 1962. He I was angry they lmed this, she says.
smoked heavily; Jane detested the habit. Oth- Why? I ask.
erwise they were well matched, both ardent I dont see why people should see me washing
observers of wildlife and devoted to their work. my hair. I couldnt see why it was interesting.
In a letter to a friend, Jane wrote, We are a very Hugos work pleased National Geographics
happy family. Hugo is charming and we get on editors. He was checking off the boxes: capturing
very well. photographic proof of the chimps toolmaking
As Jane and Hugo documented the chimps be- and use, nestbuilding, social hierarchiesand
havior, neither felt it worthwhile to focus on Jane dutifully taking the human interest shots of Jane
as well. But National Geographic executives were that Gilka had requested.
increasingly eager to turn the camera on her. His photographs appeared with Janes words
I know you wont forget to get some pictures in National Geographic magazines August 1963
of straight camp lifecooking, the writing of re- cover story, My Life Among Wild Chimpanzees:
ports into the night by lamp light, bathing, hair A courageous young British scientist lives among
washing and the like, assistant illustrations these great apes in Tanganyika and learns hither-
editor Robert Gilka wrote in a letter to Hugo in to unknown details of their behavior.
the fall of 1962. I bring up the hair washing bit The issue was a resounding success. National
because there came out of Janes last trip to the Geographic Society President Melville Grosve-
chimp reserve just such a picture, but it was so nor paid Jane and Hugo bonuses and called the
underexposed that it would not reproduce. article magnicent. On its rst page, a short
Good shots of Jane washing her hair in a stream, text introducing Jane captured the duality of
Gilka stressed, would be a big help. the public image being crafted for her. In one
paragraph, she was called a modern scientic
IN THE LONDON HOME where Miss Goodall zoologistand in the next, a charming young
and the Wild Chimpanzees is still playing on the Englishwoman.

PHOTO: JANE GOODALL INSTITUTE

SKETCH: COURTESY JANE GOODALL
 As Jane and Hugo expanded the research sta-
tion at Gombe, they also developed ideas for new
lms, but National Geographic wanted to keep
the spotlight on Jane in lms being made for tele-
vision and the lecture circuit. The requests were
increasingly specic, as in this letter to Hugo
from Joanne Hess of the National Geographic
Societys lecture branch:
It will be most important and helpful to have
several shots of Jane, which you will have to pose,
showing her looking through binoculars, laugh-
ing at chimps, staring up at chimps in trees, star-
ing into distance at chimps, and writing notes in
her book, etc., Hess wrote. I mean you should
take about 200 feet of close-ups of Jane pretend-
ing to do these things, so that we can cut pictures
of her into the lm.
The pressures to pose rankled Jane, but she
handled it diplomatically. In a letter to Melvin
Payne, whose National Geographic committee
oversaw her funding, Jane wrote, Certainly I
understand that it is necessary to build up a sto-
ry around Jane Goodall and we have cooperated
with Joanne as much as we possibly could.
But when Hess came to Gombe to oversee
some lming, Jane allowed herself a private act
of rebellion. We are already collecting large
numbers of evil looking spiders and centipedes
to lay around casually in her tent, in an endeavor
to shorten her visit, Jane wrote to her mother.
When I interviewed Jane years later, during a
2015 visit to Gombe, she could look back on the
celebrity treatment more philosophically:

GOODALL: Theres this glamorous young girl

out in the jungle with potentially dangerous ani-
mals. People like romanticizing, and people were
looking at me as though I was that myth that they
had created in their mind. And the Geographic
ROUGHING IT helped create it too.
In her book My Friends, the Wild GERBER: A lot of people would resist that and
Chimpanzees,-DQHUHFDOOHGKHUUVW ght back and say, Thats not me.
day at Gombe, helping to pitch tents GOODALL: There was nothing I could do
that would serve as her home for years about it because as far as they knew, it was me.
to come. I was well aware of some of
WKHPDQ\GLFXOWLHVIDFLQJPHVKH
And there was no way I could be portrayed dif-
wrote. Equally, I knew the day was ferently. It wasnt inaccurate. Its just that people
RQHRIWKHKDSSLHVWRIP\OLIH take the facts and weave stories around them.

48 N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C O C T O B E R 2 0 1 7
 A N O V E L A P P R OAC H
Janes study had no precedent. Here
VKHVKRZVWKHMXYHQLOH)LDWR\FKLPS
$VPXFKRXWRIQRYHOW\DVVFLHQWLF
research, Jane shared things with the
chimps they never wouldve seen in
GERBER: But at some point you embraced it? the wild: from Hugos shaving mirrors
You embellished it? You made it better? to copies of National Geographic.
GOODALL: Well, at some point I realized that
if people were going to think this way, then they
would listen to me, which is true. And this would
help to conserve chimps and do all the other
things I need to do.

AS 1963 ENDED, Jane conded to friends that

she and Hugo were very much in love. During
Christmas holidays at her family home in Bourne-
mouth, on Englands southern coast, she re-
ceived a telegram: WILL YOU MARRY ME STOP
HUGO. She replied yes. They set March 28 as
the wedding date, one month after what would
be another red-letter day for Jane: her rst major
public lecture in the United States.
Jane was a little nervous about being on stage
at the 3,700-seat DAR Constitution Hall in Wash-
ington, but the members of National Geograph-
ics lecture committee seemed more nervous. She
was to give her remarks against the backdrop of
a lm made from Hugos Gombe footage. As the
February 28 event neared, the committee asked
for a draft of her speech. Jane hadnt written one.
Seeking assurance that the lecture would go
well, Joanne Hess and her team asked Jane to
join them in the editing room, to practice her re-
marks as the lm played. When I interviewed her
at Gombe in 2015, she recalled the scene:
The Geographic naturally wanted to hear
what it would be like, she recalled. Well, its very
hard for me to practice something ahead; it comes
out to the audience. I didnt know that then. I just
knew that with three people listening to me in
that cutting room, this isnt a lecture! Apparently
they were all whispering to each other, Shall we
cancel it? Its going to be a disaster! Can we really
have the Geographic associated with this young
gal? She doesnt seem to know what shes going
to say. I had every idea what I was going to say,
but I wasnt going to give a whole speech to three
people in a cutting room.
In her speech and lm presentation at Consti-
tution Hall, Jane reported on her scientic dis-
coveries, which she called results beyond my
wildest dreams. She evoked scenes of Gombes
 beauty and tranquility. And as she would cuts him off: It wasnt true that I didnt see any
throughout her career, she described chimps by chimps for two months. Thats an absolute lie.
their personalities and the names shed given The aws seemed to matter only to Jane and
them. She called Fi agile and acrobatic and Hugo; the lm was a commercial success. The
described Fis older brother Figan as an ado- two hoped they might do another lm project
lescent who feels hes a little bit superior. To a and have more creative control, but Geographic
baby who was just beginning to nd her feet, officials had other ideas. They wanted to do more
Jane had impishly given the name Gilka, after with Jane and Gombe, but not necessarily with
the National Geographic editor. Hugo. Jane was their star; Hugo, an accessory.
And in describing the need to protect the In the years after the lming at Gombe, Jane
chimps and prevent them from being shot or sold and Hugo took different paths. In 1967 Hugo
to circuses, Jane referred to David Greybeard, the and Jane welcomed a son, Hugo Eric Louis van
trusting chimp who had opened the door to some Lawick, known by his nickname, Grub.
of her most important discoveries. With Janes work anchored in Gombe and Hu-
David Greybeard has put his complete trust gos lmmaking passion in the Serengeti, nearly
in man, she told the audience. Shall we fail 400 miles away, the two grew apart. In 1974 Jane
him? Surely its up to us to do something to en- and Hugo divorced. In 1975 she married Derek
sure that at least some of these fantastic, almost Bryceson, a Tanzanian government official.
human creatures continue to live undisturbed in By the time Grub was eight, he was living
their natural habitat. with his grandmother and attending school in
Her presentation was a triumph, and a mile- Bournemouth. Derek and Jane had been married
stone in her emergence as a public gurea sta- for only ve years when he died of cancer in 1980.
tus she didnt start out seeking but was learning After a career spanning four decades, Hugo died
to manage to her advantage. It caught the atten- of emphysema in 2002.
tion of a National Geographic executive who was
launching a television specials division. A good WHEN I INTERVIEWED Jane in Gombe, it had
deal of the Gombe footage ended up in one of the been 55 years since shed climbed out of a skiff
divisions rst prime-time broadcasts: Miss Good- and onto a pebble beach there for the rst time.
all and the Wild Chimpanzees, with narration by In her minds eye she can see things as they were
Hollywood luminary Orson Welles. then, from that beach up to the high ridge known
When Hugo and Jane rst screened the nished as the peak: Its like another life, so long ago.
lm, they complained of its many inaccuracies. She can even watch herself pretending, and
They found the Welles narration patently unsci- today recount it with a smile.
enticand at Janes insistence, the script was In the lm footage, Jane sees her 28-year-old
partially rewritten. self seated on the peak. Its magic hour, nightfall.
To this day, as she watches the lm on the lap- Hugos exposure is perfect. On screen, Jane pulls
top, Jane points out aws. That leopard wasnt a blanket around her shoulders. She raises a tin
photographed by Hugo, it was stock footage. cup to her mouth and sips.
That scene isnt in Gombe, its somewhere in the Now its Jane whos the narrator.
Serengeti. And when Welles begins a sentence That cup is empty, I swear, she says. Theres
with After two months search in vain, Jane nothing inside it. j

A P E C U L I A R W H I T E A P E
Thats how Jane thought the chimps regarded her: 7RQ\*HUEHULVDQDZDUGZLQQLQJOPPDNHUDQGD
$VRQHRIWKHPMXVWGLHUHQW+HUH)ORVGDXJKWHU co-founder of Market Road Films, a production compa-
)LORRNVXS-DQHVVKLUW,EHFDPHWRWDOO\DEVRUEHG ny based in New York. For National Geographic, he has
LQWRWKLVIRUHVWH[LVWHQFH-DQHZURWHODWHU ZULWWHQDQGGLUHFWHGDGR]HQGRFXPHQWDULHV

GETTY IMAGES
Dubais Audacious
 A decade ago the emirate capital had one of the largest

Goal ecological footprints of any city in the world.

By 2050 it wants to have the smallest. Can it get there?

53
Dubai touts its superlatives. At the Green
Planet, visitors walk around an 82-foot
DUWLFLDOWUHHFODLPHGWREHWKHZRUOGV
ODUJHVWLQDUDLQIRUHVWKDELWDWWKDWVKHOWHUV
VSHFLHVRIWURSLFDOSODQWVDQGDQLPDOV
7KHELRGRPHLVRQHRIWKHFLW\VJURZLQJ
QXPEHURIJUHHQEXLOGLQJVZKLFKPHHW
DKLJKVWDQGDUGIRUHQHUJ\HFLHQF\

3UHFHGLQJSDJHV7RXULVWVRFNWR%XUM
.KDOLIDWKHZRUOGVWDOOHVWVN\VFUDSHUDW
IHHWIRUWKLVELUGVH\HYLHZ6RPHXUEDQ
SODQVFDOOIRUVFDOLQJGRZQWKHRSHUDKRXVH
ERWWRPFHQWHULVSDUWRIDQHZJURXQGOHYHO
GLVWULFWGHVLJQHGWRHQFRXUDJHVWUROOLQJDQG
WROLQNWRPDVVWUDQVLWLQWKHFDUFHQWULFFLW\
BY ROBERT KUNZIG
PHOTOGRAPHS BY LUCA LOCATELLI

T
o plunge headlong into the
audacity of Dubaithe sprawling
efflorescence of concrete, glass,
and steel that has sprung up over
the past three decades on the
scorched sands of Arabiayou could start by
going skiing. From outside the Mall of the
Emirates, the slope looks like a silver space-
ship impaled in the ground oor. Inside you
can window-shop at Prada, Dior, and Alexander
McQueen before pushing through the glass
doors of Ski Dubai. Passing a mural of the Alps,
you zip up your parka, pull on your glovesand
marvel at what air-conditioning can do.
The souvenir T-shirt I bought bears a cartoon
of a Celsius thermometer. I went from +50 to -8,
it announces. It didnt feel quite that cold on the
slope, but the temperature outside in Dubai can
get close to 50 (122F) in summer. The humidity is
stiing then because of the proximity of the sea.
Yet it rarely rains; Dubai gets less than four inch-
es a year. There are no permanent rivers. There is
next to no soil suitable for growing crops.
What kind of human settlement makes sense
in such a place? For centuries Dubai was a shing
village and trading port, small and poor. Then
oil and a wild real estate boom transformed it
into a city that sports a skyline of architectural
wonders and the worlds third busiest airport.
From the point of view of sustainability, you
probably wouldnt have done it here, says Janus skiing is just a symbol: Dubai burns far more fossil
Rostock, a prominent architect transplanted fuel to air-condition its towers of glass. To keep the
from Copenhagen. taps running in all those buildings, it essentially
And yet a sustainable city is precisely what boils hundreds of Olympic pools worth of sea-
Dubais government now says it aims to create. water every day. And to create more beachfront for
Sustainable? Dubai? When camels fly, you more luxury hotels and villas, it has buried coral
might say. The boom years made the city a poster reefs under immense articial islands.
child for the excess that results when cheap en- In 2006 the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) de-
ergy meets environmental indifference. Indoor clared the United Arab Emirates the country with
the largest ecological footprint per capita, largely
Q 7KLVDUWLFOHLVSDUWRIRXU8UEDQ([SHGLWLRQVVHULHV because of its carbon emissions. The shoe cer-
DQLQLWLDWLYHPDGHSRVVLEOHE\DJUDQWIURP8QLWHG tainly t Dubai, the most conspicuous consumer
7HFKQRORJLHVWRWKH1DWLRQDO*HRJUDSKLF6RFLHW\ among the nations seven emirates. In the decade

56 N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C O C T O B E R 2 0 1 7
$IHDWRIDLUFRQGLWLRQLQJ6NL'XEDLLVWKH0LGGOH(DVWVUVWLQGRRUVNLSDUNZKHUH(PLUDWLVW\SLFDOO\OHDUQWKH
VSRUWRQRQHRILWVYHUXQVEHIRUHKHDGLQJWRDOSLQHUHVRUWVDEURDG$QHZUHFRUGVKDWWHULQJVORSHLVFRPLQJ
SDUWRIDEXLOGLQJERRPVSXUUHGE\([SRDVL[PRQWKH[KLELWLRQH[SHFWHGWRGUDZPLOOLRQYLVLWRUV

since, the citys population has doubled to more growth of the economy is not sustainable without
than 2.8 million. And yet something else has hap- taking action on emissions, says Tanzeed Alam,
pened since 2006: Dubai has started to change. climate and energy director for the Emirates
Gleaming driverless metro trains now run Wildlife Society, WWFs local partner.
alongside Sheikh Zayed Road, carrying about as In Dubai the leadership is His Highness
many people as the cars on that clogged 12-lane Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum,
arteryand often faster. A new housing devel- the 68-year-old hereditary emir, aka the Ruler.
opment called the Sustainable City recycles its Sheikh Mohammed took over in 2006. He has de-
water and waste and produces more energy than creed that his city will get 75 percent of its energy
it consumes. Out in the desert, Dubai is building a from clean sources by 2050. He wants it to have
giant solar-power plant that will soon be produc- the smallest carbon footprint in the world. Many
ing some of the cheapest and cleanest electricity people I met on a recent visit, including Rostock
on Earth. The leadership has recognized that the and Alam, believe the city might actually pull

DU B A I S AU DAC I OU S G OA L 57
 Shifting Sands
In a single generation Dubai exploded from a humble
settlement with modest oil reserves to a sprawling,
car-centric metropolis fueled by tourism, real estate, and
aviationit has the worlds third busiest airport and is
building another. For a more secure, sustainable future, its
investing in solar energy, green building, and mass transit.
Palm The World
Jebel Islands
Ali

Palm
Jumeirah
Dubai The
Dubai Electricity and Water Green
Water Authority DUBAI Jumeirah Canal Planet
JEBEL ALI M-Station MARINA 4 Beach
PORT 7 3
JUMEIRAH
Jumeirah
Central Safa
Dub a i Metro Red Line
Park
OAD R
Mall of the SHEIKH ZAYED Dubai Opera
EMIRATES Emirates 6
JEBEL HILLS Al Barsha
ALI Pond Park
AL BARSHA AL QUOZ
To Masdar City 44 mi (71 km);
Abu Dhabi 53 mi (85 km)
JUMEIRAH
VILLAGE
CIRCLE
Expo NAD AL
DUBAI
2020
site DUBAI SHEBA
SOUTH INVESTMENTS
PARK DUBAI
SPORTS
CITY ARABIAN
RANCHES
Al Maktoum
International
Airport
CITY OF
ARABIA
THE DUBAI
SUSTAINABLE SILICON
CITY OASIS

N
0 mi 4

0 km 4

Persian OMAN
EUROPE ASIA
Gulf
Dubai
U.A.E.
Abu Dhabi
AFRICA
UNITED
ARAB OMAN
INDIAN EMIRATES To Mohammed bin Rashid
OCEAN Al Maktoum Solar Park
SAUDI
ARABIA 19 mi (31 km)

BUILDING AN ICONIC SKYLINE 1787 1979 1997 1999

$KXERIGDULQJDUFKLWHFWXUH'XEDL Al Fahidi Fort Sheikh Rashid Tower Jumeirah Beach Hotel Burj Al Arab
LVVHWWRKRVWDZRUOGVIDLU([SR 7KHFLW\VROGHVW 'XEDLVUVW 7KHIDPHGGHVLJQ 7KHODQGPDUNKRWHO
ZKLFKVSXUUHGLWVODWHVW building VN\VFUDSHU PLPLFVDEUHDNLQJZDYH is sail shaped.
FRQVWUXFWLRQERRP

1 2 3 4
 URBAN EXPANSION
Pre-1985 1985-1999 2000-2016
2LOEHJLQVWRRZLQWKH 'XEDLVUVWLFRQLF Despite a pause
VDQGZLWKLWFRPH buildings go up, and its during the 2008-09
COASTAL EXPANSION
HOHFWULFLW\SDYHGURDGV HFRORJLFDOIRRWSULQW FULVLVWKHSURSHUW\
&RPSOHWLRQRIWKHPDQPDGH
an airport, and even VRDUVDVWKHFLW\V ERRPFRQWLQXHVDV
3DOP,VODQGV3DOP-XPHLUDK
WKH0LGGOH(DVWV SRSXODWLRQWHUULWRU\ foreigners are allowed
3DOP-HEHO$OLDQG'HLUDFRXOG
tallest building. DQGWUDFJURZ to own and invest.
LQFUHDVH'XEDLVFRDVWOLQHE\
PRUHWKDQPLOHV7KH:RUOG
,VODQGVSURMHFWKDVVWDOOHG

Persian G ulf
PORT Deira Islands
RASHID

1
DUBAI DEIRA
Du
ba

2 8 M
i

et
ro
5 ZABEEL Gre
Creek Dubai Creek SHARJAH SHARJAH
en Lin

Park Golf Course INDUSTRIAL AJMAN

AREA
e

Dubai AL JURF
International
Airport
Dubai Creek

UNIVERSITY Sharjah
CITY International
Airport
AL MIZHAR
AL WARQAA
INTERNATIONAL Mushrif AL
CITY Park
AL KHAWANEEJ QARRAYEN

'$0,(16$81'(5'$,6<&+81*$1',5(1(%(50$1
9$325,61*067$))('0(55,776285&(
k23(1675((70$3&2175,%87256$9$,/$%/(81'(523(1
'$7$%$6(/,&(16(OPENSTREETMAP.ORG/COPYRIGHT
,1352*5(66$1')8785(352-(&76:,7+352326('
&203/(7,21'$7(6$62)-8/<

2000 2010 2013 2017* 2020*

Emirates Towers Burj Khalifa Cayan Tower Dubai Frame Dynamic Tower
The larger tower 7KHZRUOGV $VN\VFUDSHUEXLOW 7KHVWUXFWXUH (DFKRRUZLOO
was the tallest WDOOHVWVWUXFWXUH with a 90-degree IUDPHVYLHZV VHSDUDWHO\URWDWH
LQWKH0LGGOH at 2,717 ft twist of old and on this shape-
(DVWZKHQ P new Dubai. shifting tower.
UVWEXLOW

5 Location yet to
6 7 8
be determined
2QWKHFRPSDFWVWUHHWVRIWKH6XVWDLQDEOH
&LW\FHQWHULWVYLOODVVKDGHHDFKRWKHU
UHGXFLQJDLUFRQGLWLRQLQJQHHGVDFRQWUDVW
WRWKHQHLJKERULQJODUJHUODQHVORWVDQGKRPHV
(DFKYLOODKDVVRODUSDQHOVWKHQHW]HURHQHUJ\
FRPPXQLW\JHQHUDWHVDOOLWVRZQSRZHUDQG
JURZVSURGXFHLQGRPHGJUHHQKRXVHV
that off. And if it can happen here, they say, it to build villas and skyscrapers clad in glassnot
can happen anywhere. the ideal material in a land of relentless sun, but
what the market demanded. The workers lived
SHEIKH MOHAMMED GREW UP in a house lit by in camps that were often squalid, in conditions
oil lamps, where water from the village well was that some said resembled indentured servitude.
delivered by donkey cart. The house belonged to The city exploded down the coast. It spread
his grandfather, the emir; the Al Maktoum family out into the Persian Gulf, onto articial peninsu-
has ruled Dubai since 1833. The house still stands las built from titanic amounts of dredged sand; it
near the mouth of Dubai Creek, a natural harbor spread into the Arabian desert. When you look
that is the reason the city exists at all. Sheikh at how Dubai has been growing, its just been this
Mohammeds father, Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed Al obsession with building outward into the desert,
Maktoum, had grown up in the same house and as says Yasser Elsheshtawy, an Egyptian-American
a young man had endured years when people in architect who taught at U.A.E. University in Al
Dubai starved; the Great Depression and the inven- Ain for 20 years. There were no limitations.
tion of cultured pearls had destroyed the market Energy was cheap. You had cars. So why not?
for pearl diving, the towns main enterprise. Sheikh Mohammeds aspiration is like his
It was Sheikh Rashid who began to modernize fathers, only grander: He wants Dubai to out-
Dubai after taking over as ruler in 1958 and espe- compete the world, to show the world that Arabs
cially after oil started to ow in the late 1960s. He can be pioneers again, as they were in the Middle
quickly brought in electricity, running water, and Ages. His strategy has been to attract the world
paved roads. He built schools, an airport, and, in to Dubai. Some 90 percent of the 2.8 million res-
1979, the 39-story World Trade Centre (now Sheikh idents are expats living in a place where not so
Rashid Tower), at the time the tallest building in long ago a few thousand Arabs struggled to sur-
the Middle East. It was built in the middle of no- vive. Dubais population, young and incredibly
where, on the edge of the city, says Neil Walmsley, diversechildren attend schools with dozens of
a Dubai-based British engineer and urban planner nationalities, several expats told me proudly
with the consulting rm Arup. The city respond- is its main resource. But all those people have to
ed by growing towards itand then well past it. be kept alive in the desert.
The pearl business hadnt lasted forever, and These days Dubai has plenty of electricity
Sheikh Rashid knew the oil wouldnt either. and running water. Almost all of it comes from
Dubai holds just a fraction of the U.A.E.s oil a single two-mile-long industrial plant at Jebel
Abu Dhabi has the lions share. So while Dubai Ali. There, in a line of candy-striped smokestacks
was not a center of world trade in 1979, when and evaporator tanks, the Dubai Electricity and
Sheikh Rashid built the Trade Centre, he set Water Authority (DEWA) burns natural gas to
about making it one. That same year he opened a generate 10 gigawatts of electricity. The leftover
second and larger port at Jebel Ali, 25 miles from heat is used to desalinate seawatermore than
the Creek, as its known. 500 million gallons a day. Gas comes by pipeline
His son Mohammed lled the empty space be- from Qatar, with which the U.A.E. severed diplo-
tween the two, turning Dubai into a hub not only matic relations in June, and in tankers from as
of trade and nance but also, improbably, of tour- far away as the United States.
ism and real estate development. Each Emirati Dubai, a tiny emirate we think of as oil rich,
citizen has long been entitled to a plot for his own depends on imported fossil fuel for life sup-
villa. But in the early 2000s, when Dubai began port. One DEWA official, trying to convey to me
allowing property to be owned by foreigners how that feels, gripped his throat tightly with
already attracted by the lack of income taxes one hand. But theres an upside to that chok-
cash ooded in. Four large developers carved up ing feeling: It can motivate you to change your
the land. Workers streamed in from South Asia circumstances.

62 N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C O C T O B E R 2 0 1 7
THE GLOBAL FINANCIAL CRISIS OF 2008 and theyre still subsidized), and new buildings are
2009 brought Dubais boom to a halt. Tourism no longer built as if energy and water were limit-
plummeted; so did real estate prices. Dubai had less, says Saeed Al Abbar, who heads the Emirates
to be bailed out of debt by Abu Dhabi. The eco- Green Building Council. They may still have glass
nomic crisis was probably the best thing that hap- facades, but they must have solar water heaters,
pened to usa blessing in disguise, says Habiba for example, and systems that automatically low-
Al Marashi, co-founder of the Emirates Environ- er lights and air-conditioning when people are
mental Group, a recycling and education outt. absent. What Ive seen is a huge change, Al Ab-
It slowed down the crazy pace of construction. bar says. Hes helping design one of Dubais rst
As the city drew breath, it had several reasons net zero energy office buildings, which will pro-
to reconsider its path. At Dubai Holding, Sheikh duce as much energy as it consumes.
Mohammeds own development company, one The rst net-zero-energy housing develop-
of the issues was how Dubai was going to source ment has opened south of town. The secret of the

The economic crisis was a blessing in disguise.

Habiba Al Marashi, environmental activist

the energy to power all these enormous real es- Sustainable City, says its developer, Faris Saeed,
tate developments, says energy consultant Robin a reformed builder of glass towers, is not just the
Mills, who worked there at the time. Green alter- solar panels that shade every parking space and
natives were in the air: Masdar City, designed roof terrace, nor the solar water heater that sup-
by the rm of star architect Norman Foster and plies each house. It lies in simple choicessuch
billed as the worlds rst zero-carbon city, car as packing the 500 L-shaped houses close enough
free and solar powered, was just beginning to rise together on narrow streets to shade one another,
from the sands of Abu Dhabi. as the old houses near the Creek do. That allowed
Most important, the price of solar power was the air-conditioning units to be much smaller
plummetingand it has continued to do so such and cheaper, Saeed says. Extra insulation and
that now, Mills says, solar is clearly by far the reective windows and paint cut energy use
cheapest form of electricity in Dubai. This past even further. Its a myth that sustainable has to
February, when I visited the Mohammed bin be more expensive, he says.
Rashid Al Maktoum Solar Park, 30 miles south of All these efforts have begun to pay off. Per
downtown, DEWA was just completing the installa- capita consumption of water and electricity is
tion of 200 megawatts worth of solar panels, and it falling, and, the government says, so are per cap-
had signed a contract for the next 800 megawatts ita carbon emissions, the main driver of Dubais
at 2.99 cents a kilowatt-hour. Its planning for enormous footprint. The average Dubai resident
5,000 megawatts at the site by 2030. And unlike now emits less than 18 metric tons a year, just
many American utilities, its also encouraging res- a shade more than the average American. But to-
idents to put solar panels on their roofs. tal consumption and emissions are still growing
The solar potential is so great here, Mills because the population is. And a Dubai resident
says. Millions of acres of empty desert and plen- still emits three times as much as a resident of
ty of roof space. Electricity generationfor me New York Cityin part because Dubai grew,
its almost problem solved. like many American cities, into a car-centered
After the proigate boom years, Dubai also is sprawl. Residents of Saeeds pedestrian-friendly
trying to restrain demand for electricity and wa- development can walk to restaurants, a gro-
ter. Prices have increased substantially (though cery store, and a mosque, and a school is on the

DU B A I S AU DAC I OU S G OA L 63
3RZHUHGE\WKHVXQDIRRW6PDUW3DOP
RQ-XPHLUDK%HDFKQHDUWKH%XUM$O$UDEKRWHO
SURYLGHVVKDGHDQGPRUH:L)LDFFHVVSKRQH
FKDUJHUOLJKWSRVWEXOOHWLQERDUGVHFXULW\
FDPHUDHPHUJHQF\FDOOEXWWRQ2YHUDKXQGUHG
ZLOOEHLQVWDOOHGDWFLW\EHDFKHVDQGSDUNV
Dubais dozen golf courses attract many of its
15 million annual tourists and rely on precious
water resources. To keep fairwaysand its
practicesgreen, the Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht
Club, which features an island tee box, began
LUULJDWLQJZLWKWUHDWHGVHZDJHHXHQWLQ
2SHQHGLQWKHWZRPLOHORQJ'XEDL:DWHU&DQDOFRQQHFWVWRERWKWKH3HUVLDQ*XOIDQGWKHFLW\VQDWXUDO
KDUERUWKHFXOPLQDWLRQRIDSODQUVWHQYLVLRQHGLQE\WKHFLW\VPRGHUQL]LQJUXOHU7KHSURMHFWLQFUHDVHV
YDOXDEOHZDWHUIURQWUHDOHVWDWHVODWHGIRUUHWDLOKRXVLQJSXEOLFSDUNVDQGWUDLOVPDULQDVDQGDIHUU\VHUYLFH

waybut its still a 10-to-15-mile drive to any of mixed-use development, called Jumeirah Cen-
the multiple centers of Dubai. The metro, valu- tral, where hundreds of buildings will be laid out
able as it is, doesnt reach the Sustainable City. on small, walkable blocks. Theyll be linked by
Planners are rethinking how people move trams to the mall and its metro stop.
around the centers themselves. Janus Rostock, All discussions of Dubais future lead back to
chief architect at Atkins, the rm that designed the Ruler, and from Emiratis and expats alike, I
the metro, the sail-shaped Burj Al Arab hotel, and heard testimonials to the decisive leadership of
Dubai Opera, is leading an effort to transform Sheikh Mohammed. We dont have a lot of for-
the area around Burj Khalifa, the worlds tallest malities, says Hussain Lootah, director general
building, into a district of ground-oor shops of the municipal government. Here projects
and restaurants that invites people to stroll. Near take days to be done; elsewhere, years. Its not
the Mall of the Emirates, Sheikh Mohammeds just the lack of red tapewithout a free press,
own Dubai Holding has planned a mile-long political parties, or free elections, theres little

68 N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C O C T O B E R 2 0 1 7
 Perhaps the greatest reason for hope is that
environmental imperatives are coming into line
with Dubais economic ones. Its not just that
solar energy is cheap. Dubai is pivoting now, says
Rostock, because it has tobecause its compet-
ing with other cities for business and people, and
sustainability is in. What we have is a willing-
ness and a push to change Dubai and how its
perceived, Rostock says.
But this city has no intention of slowing down.
On a wall in Lootahs office, a framed series of
aerial pictures shows how Dubai has evolved since
1935, when it was an impoverished shing village.
At the center is a visualization of the future: It
shows a coast even more clogged with articial
islands than it is today. Dubais population is on
track to double to more than ve million by 2030.
The city lives off its expanding footprint: Nearly a
quarter of the population works in construction.
The choke point, if one comes, will be water
rather than energy. A shallow, almost closed sea,
the Persian Gulf is already up to 20 percent saltier
than the ocean, and its getting saltier: Dams in
Turkey and Iraq are diverting freshwater, climate
change is increasing evaporationwhile making
Dubai even hotterand desalination plants are
dumping hot brine. In time the water will become
ever harder to desalinate and perhaps too salty to
support a lot of the marine life that once support-
ed Dubai. We still feel we can cope, says Lootah.
With technology, everything is possible.
With enough solar power even guilt-free
indoor skiing becomes possibleand with cli-
mate change, Dubai may need the respite. In the
opposition to projects endorsed by the Ruler. summer, people already go outside as little as
During the boom years this system produced possible. By 2100 there may be days so hot and
Dubais headlong expansion and misbegotten humid that going outside could kill you. Should
projects like the World, an archipelago of 300 this city even be here? I put the question to Alam.
articial islands (shaped like countries) that Thats the wrong question, he says. Its
remain largely uninhabited. But it also produced more about accepting where we are today and
the Dubai Metro, a smashing success built in less how do we make that better. Its a question of the
than a decade and opened at the height of the right to develop and of human beings right for a
nancial crisis. Projects like that give sustainabil- better future. How do we make cities better? j
ity mavens hope. This country has developed
so quickly, says Tanzeed Alam, of the Emirates 6HQLRUHQYLURQPHQWHGLWRURobert Kunzig and photog-
Wildlife Society. It can change quickly too rapher Luca LocatelliFRYHUHG*HUPDQ\VUHQHZDEOH
because the leadership gets behind it. HQHUJ\UHYROXWLRQLQRXU1RYHPEHULVVXH

DU B A I S AU DAC I OU S G OA L 69
Should
We Kill
Animals
to Save
Them?
Trophy hunting
helps fund species
protection. Critics
say the benets
dont match the
hype and that killing
big game animals
today is unethical.

A 13-year-old girl from the

United States hauls the carcass
of a bontebok back to camp
in Eastern Cape, South Africa.
She shot the antelope in 2010
and kept the skin and horns.

70
The people in this story
agreed to be photographed
on condition that their
names be withheld.

Surrounded by more
than a hundred African
game trophies in his
home in Wilmington,
Delaware, this hunter
says the pursuit has
been a passion since
he was 12 years old.
Hunting sort of got
into my blood, he
says, adding, Id like to
think Im a conserva-
tionist and a collector.
A hunter from Texas
shot this rhino in 2010
on a game farm in
Northern Cape, South
Africawith a tranquil-
izer dart. The sedated
rhino, blindfolded to
keep his eyes moist,
later got a checkup from
a veterinarian. Such
KXQWVRHUWKHWKULOORI
the chase without the
kill. A rule change in
2012 generally allows
only veterinarians to
UHWUDQTXLOL]HUGDUWV
hunters can shoot darts
containing vitamins.
By Michael Paterniti
Photographs by David Chancellor

Elephants kept appearing in wrinkled herds,

loitering near the dusty pans, in search of
water. With the September temperature
pushing a hundred degrees at midday, the
pachyderms were moving at the edge of the
Kalahari Desert in Namibia in a community-
run wildlife reserve, or conservancy, called
Nyae Nyae, where roughly 2,800 San people
live today in unyielding conditions.
The elephants left snapped branches and warm guide on this expedition, popped out of the driv-
scat in their wake. When they caught our scent, ers side door. Strapping, ruddy, and blond, in
our sweat mixing with the sun-scorched grasses, his 40s, he seemed straight from central casting,
they broke into a trumpeting jog and were gone. wearing a cloth hat and shorts. He stood over the
Later, more materialized on the horizon, in impression for a moment, a quizzical expression
the shade of the camel thorn trees, shades them- on his face, and nodded his head in agreement. If
selves. For such enormous creatures, they were Nyae Nyaes desert scrub is home to San families,
nearly invisible but to the sharpest eyes. And it is also home to some of the last, biggest wild
those eyes belonged now to Dam, a short, com- elephants in the world. This footprint was proof.
pact man, a tracker from the local San people The rest of us unloaded, followed by the tracker
who stood in the back of the Land Cruiser. they only ever called the Old Man, another tracker
Oliphant! he cried, leaning hard over the in training, and one more San, who was acting as a
right side of the vehicle, picking out tracks in game guard to make sure the hunt was conduct-
the sand. He tapped on the door, and we came to ed in accordance with the conservancys rules
a whiplashing halt. Dam jumped down, check- and quotas. Last to emerge in that swelter was
ing a footprint, its edges corrugated and etched the client himself, an American businessman,
inside with smaller bubbles. He motioned, and who opened the passenger door and reached up
Felix Marnewecke, the professional hunter and to the rack for his gun, a 12-pound, bespoke .470

76 N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C O C T O B E R 2 0 1 7
The head and skin of a lion, prepared for display by a taxidermy shop in South Africa, are
boxed for shipment to the American who killed the animal in 2010. In response to dwindling
numbers of lions in the wild and doubts about the conservation value of hunting them, the
U.S. has since made it harder for hunters to import lion trophies.

Nitro Express double rie. These guns, costing his request, given the controversial nature of
up to $200,000, are favored for big-game trophy elephant huntshoisted their ries over their
hunting because of their stopping power, and this shoulders and fell in behind Dam, who took off
is what he was here for, of coursea trophy. Two at the speed of a jackrabbit. Marnewecke turned
of them, actually. An avid hunter whose adven- to me and said, as I stumbled to keep up, I swear,
tures had led him to Central Asia to shoot Marco theres no better tracker in Africa. If it takes 30
Polo sheep at 15,000 feet and to Africa to shoot a miles, he never gives up.
leopard, he was now back in Africa for elephants.
According to Marnewecke, the going rate for a FROM CHARLES DARWIN and John James Au-
14-day, single elephant hunt is about $80,000. The dubon to Theodore Roosevelt and Ernest Hem-
trophy hunt limit of ve elephants a year in Nyae ingway, the most enlightened hunters have long
Nyae represents real money to the San. A portion viewed themselves as naturalists and conser-
of the fee is paid directly to community members vationists, committed to sustainability among
and to a fund for conservation projects to protect animal populations and the preservation of wild
the areas wildlife. As for the elephant trophies places where they stalk game. The linkage has
themselves, the client would take the tusks home, become inextricable. Revenues of hundreds of
while the meat would all go to the San. millions in federal excise taxes levied on hunters
Marnewecke and his clientanonymous at go directly to wildlife management and related

T ROP HY HU NT I NG 77
7KLVNXGXRHUHGJRRG
meat for children living
in Namibias Nyae Nyae
Conservancy. Village
elders gathered to
dance in celebration
of the bounty after a
German hunter shot the
massive bull in 2016.
For trophy species, the
conservancy charges
WKHKXQWRXWWWHUDQ
overall fee, some of
ZKLFKEHQHWVYLOODJHUV
who also keep the meat.
The clients take home
the trophy parts.
activities each year in the U.S. alone. And anyone huntersthe American client in Nyae Nyae, for
who keeps a freezer full of venison is likely to tell onewho argue that a thoughtfully regulated
you that the act of killing your own dinner in the and expensive hunt for bull elephants in their
wild is more humane than buying the plastic- waning days makes a sustainable way to protect
wrapped meat of industrially raised livestock. both species and habitat.
But trophy hunting today, especially of the so- On we went, following the footprints. Every
called big ve in Africa (elephant, lion, leopard, so often Dam would retrace his steps, circling in
rhino, and Cape buffalo), brings with it a larger the dust, until we slowed to a more careful crawl.
set of moral and nancial questions. The sport Coming over a knoll, we saw them at last, Loxo-
killing of animals beleaguered in the wild can donta africanawhat seemed to be three bulls,
arouse erce opposition, even more so if the munching on leaves and grass. Marnewecke
animal Cecil the Lion, for exampleis named. reached for his binoculars, the American client
Biologists estimated total losses of large mam- took his rie in hand. Everything narrowed to a
mals in protected areas on the continent at up to nervous point. African elephants live to be 60 or
60 percent between 1970 and 2005. As big game 70, and the biggest tuskers usually are older than
populations dwindle further under pressure from 45. Tusks are measured by weight, and anything
human encroachment, shifting climate norms, estimated to be over 50 pounds is considered a
and widespread criminal poaching, there are shooter by hunters. The client was looking for

80 N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C O C T O B E R 2 0 1 7
 In Nyae Nyae in 2016 the German hunter (above) who shot the kudu seen on pages 78-9
takes aim. He later killed an old bull elephant (left). Hunters argue that killing old bulls does
the least harm to the species, but biologist Joyce Poole says older male elephants are the
primary breeders. Theyre role models for younger males and chosen mates for females.

something in the 70-plus-pound range, but in that bright day, elephants at our back, I couldnt
the end these elephants tusks were too small. help but wonder: Is that really how this works?
Marnewecke made his determination, turned Can you really kill ve elephants to save 2,500?
on his heel, and began walking back to the Land Or start from the other side: Why kill one at all?
Cruiser. No one seemed disappointed exactly: It
was almost enough to have stood in the suburbs SEEN FROM THE AIR Africa can appear as an
of such magnicent creatures. illusion, rich velds and dramatic rifts, wide des-
The shooting is the last 5 percent of an erts and thundering rivers, these seemingly vast
elephant hunt, Marnewecke said. I feel quite stretches of unfettered, unpopulated wild osten-
shitty when an elephant dies, but those elephants sibly forgotten by time and people. At a glance
pay for the conservation of the other 2,500 that it could be a repository for all our ideas about
move through here. Trophy hunting is the best wilderness at its wildest. And yet today no patch
economic model we have in Africa right now. here goes unclaimed, whether its marked, mon-
It was an argument Id soon hear other hunters etized, or fought over. The animals that roam the
make and a host of activists and biologists tear land have become commodied, part of a new
apart. In the end it may save this placeand the consumerism, marketed and sold, their brands
elephants too. pitted against each other, their continued exis-
Standing in the heat and dust of the Kalahari tence now a question of human demand, whim,

T ROP HY HU NT I NG 81
Villagers in Zimbabwe
shared the meat of
this elephant, shot in
2009 by an American
hunter. They were par-
ticipants in CAMPFIRE,
a program of long
standing in which rural
groups sell access to
their wildlife in return
IRUVRPHRIWKHSURW
Once a model of its
kind, CAMPFIRE now
gets mixed reviews:
Too often the money
earmarked for com-
munities doesnt reach
them or get spent on
local improvements.
$JLUDHOLHVFUXPSOHG
on a game farm in
Eastern Cape, felled
by a hunter in 2010.
Habitat loss and illegal
poaching have made
JLUDHVYXOQHUDEOH
to extinction, but in
South Africawhere
their numbers are
increasinghunting
them is legal. Some
KXQWHUVZDQWDJLUDH
VNLQUXJWRVKRZR
others the animal itself,
taxidermied upright for
display in a room with a
high ceiling.
and calculation. Wild game is the continents ver- supply of nature, says American lion biologist
sion of crude oiland it too will run out someday. Craig Packer, who has lived and worked on the
Trophy huntingthe killing of big game for continent for more than 40 years. But, he says,
a set of horns or tusks, a skin, or a taxidermied from 30,000 feet you would see that the habitats
bodyhas burgeoned into a billion-dollar, prot- are shrinking. Lions really are becoming more of
driven industry, overseen in some cases by corrupt an endangered species, and hunters should real-
governments. Many countries in sub-Saharan Af- ly not shoot these animals for sport unless they
rica allow trophy hunting, with varying degrees can provide positive evidence that theyre having
of transparency and control, establishing yearly a salutary effect on lion conservation.
quotas meant to reect the status of species and Biologists make the same argument against the
creating exclusions for highly vulnerable popula- hunting of other big game, including elephants,
tions. South Africa, for instance, no longer allows whose numbers across the continent have fallen
hunting of leopards. Kenya has banned trophy sharply in recent years. Demand for rhino horn,
hunting outright since 1977, and in Botswana, a elephant ivory, and lion bones, especially in Asia,
comparatively wildlife-rich country, a tempo- has ignited a scourge of poaching. But the issue
rary ban in government-controlled hunting areas remains complicated, with some place-specic
went into effect in 2014. animal populations, such as the elephants of Nyae
Africa once seemed to have an inexhaustible Nyae, thriving where theres trophy hunting.

86 N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C O C T O B E R 2 0 1 7
 Skinners (left) in Namibia in 2011 hold up the pelt of a leopard shot by an American hedge fund
manager. Leopards are elusive, and dogs helped track this one down. Namibia later banned
the use of dogs because leopard numbers were falling dangerously. Another American (above,
at center) hired a cameraman to record his 2016 leopard hunt in Namibia.

If you get rid of those conservancies in Na- by the Safari Club International Foundation, a
mibia, Packer says, youd probably get rid of all pro-hunting group with the stated goal of promot-
the wildlife and be left with cattle. He says he ing conservation and education, that the roughly
and other biologists are concerned with popula- 18,000 trophy hunters who come to southern and
tions, and thats an abstraction. Thats where the eastern Africa each year contribute $436 million
real conict with the animal-rights organizations to the regions GDP. The Humane Society Interna-
comes, because in their mind, Fi must never die. tional says the amount for that region is at most
Thats where the biologists can sound pretty heart- $132 million, or .03 percent of GDP.
less and cold. For Packer, saving an individual In a 2013 op-ed in the New York Times counter-
animal misses the point; whats crucial is protect- ing the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Services proposal
ing genetically viable populations as a whole. Im to list lions as a threatened species, making it
not against hunting. Theres got to be a middle more difficult for Americans to hunt them, the
ground, he says. In his estimation, though, that Tanzanian wildlife director, Alexander Son-
middle ground isnt exactly in the middle: He be- gorwa, stated that hunters on 21-day lion safa-
lieves that trophy hunting is of marginal value as ris paid government fees of up to $10,000 and
a large-scale conservation tool in Africa. pumped $75 million into the economy from 2008
On the other hand, hunters and government to 2011. Packer says the 120,000 square miles of
officials often cite a hotly contested estimate hunting areas in Tanzania need $600 million in

TROP HY HU NT I NG 87
THE PRICE ON THEIR HEADS it comes to funding lion conservation, its such
an underwhelming amount generated by sport
The cost of trophy hunts in Africa varies widely by
FRXQWU\DQGDQLPDO,QDGGLWLRQWRDQRXWWWHUVGDLO\ hunting, its no wonder that despite years of lion
rate, the overall cost can include fees to governments hunting being allowed in these countries, the lion
and landowners and money for community develop- population has plummeted. The International
ment support and antipoaching measures. Union for Conservation of Nature, which mon-
itors animal populations, reports that the num-
Minimum price for trophy hunting packages in 2011 ber of lions in ve populations in Tanzania fell by
(in U.S. dollars)
two-thirds from 1993 to 2014.
$76,116
Mozambique $73,228 Yet hunters say theyve helped fund every-
Namibia thing from health clinics to schools to water
Tanzania
wells to boots-on-the-ground assistance against
Zambia
Zimbabwe $55,530 poachers, all while leaving a lighter footprint
on the land than the often cited alternative to
killing game: wildlife-watching in the form of
photographic safaris. The UN World Tourism
$45,686
Organization estimated that 35.4 million interna-
$39,101 tional tourists visited sub-Saharan Africa in 2015
$24,113 and spent $24.5 billion. Operations designed to
attract a higher-end clientele that craves a warm
shower, big meal, and cool drink at the end of the
$19,772
day require infrastructure and equipment, may-
$12,893
be including a eet of vehicles.
Theres a danger, some hunters argue, that
too many tourists will spoil the very experience
theyre seeking. The Serengeti is amazing,
&DSHEXDOR Leopard $IULFDQHOHSKDQW Lion says Natasha Illum-Berg, a Swedish-born pro-
fessional buffalo hunter based in Tanzania, who,
like Marnewecke, leads clients into the bush
investment every year, and youre not going to for hunting experiences and trophies. The
get that shooting lions for $10,000. Ngorongoro Crater is a miracle. All these national
For some, the hunting-antihunting debate parks that are lled with minibus after minibus
boils down to Western environmentalists try- of photographic touristsits fantastic, she says,
ing to dictate their agenda to Africaa form of noting that the minibuses also put pressure on
neocolonialism, as Marnewecke puts it. Who those iconic wildlands. But what about the other
gives anybody the right, sitting in another conti- areas? she says. How many people have been to
nent, to preach to us how we should manage our the area I work in, thats 500 square miles? This
wildlife? Hunters make the point that with all year maybe 20 people. Without trophy hunting,
the outtters paying to operate in conservancies Illum-Berg argues, there would be no antipoach-
and with trophy hunters paying fees for the game ing there, no management. I keep on saying:
they shoot, hunting indeed has made signicant Give me a better idea than hunting as long as its
nancial contributions to the continent, and to sustainable. She adds, The big question in the
habitat protection, while all that antihunting end is, Whos going to pay for the party?
forces have done is make noise.
As for what happens to the hunters fees, that THE EARLIEST EVIDENCE of an elephant having
is notoriously hard to pin downand impossible been killed by human hands dates back to a blue-
in kleptocracies. And anyway, Packer says, when mud swamp in Siberia nearly 14,000 years ago.

MONICA SERRANO, NGM STAFF; MEG ROOSEVELT

SOURCE: PETER A. LINDSEY, VERNON BOOTH, AND OTHERS, PLOS ONE,
The spine of a woolly mammoth found at the con- with drones, video of the hunt, and high-powered
uence of the Ob and Irtysh Rivers seems to have ries equipped with laser range nders.
been penetrated by a man-made weapon that left Meanwhile kill shotsimages of hunters
ake traces of stone inside one of the vertebrae. posed with their dead quarryhave created vi-
The tusks, we might imagine, werent displayed ral sensations and stirred animal-rights activists
in a trophy room back at the hunters cave. and the general public to fulsome disgust. People
But hunting is more than a quid pro quo for were inamed when Minneapolis dentist Walter
sustenance. At some moment in our dawning Palmer hunted and killed Cecil, the popular lion
consciousness, hunting became equated with from Zimbabwe, in June 2015. Controversy resur-
status, virility, and power. Assyrian carvings faced in July 2017 when Cecils son Xanda was
from 650 B.C. depict lions being released from shot on a legal trophy hunt.
cages for slaughter by a chariot-riding king. The With more than half the planets population
Maasai have long killed lions as a rite of passage. living in cities, our relationship with the wild has
With the advent of better weaponry, hunting become increasingly divorced from our everyday
also evolved as a sport, one with class stratica- reality. Were now less a part of that wild world
tions, micro-cultures, and occasional egregious from rain forest to veld than consumers of it. Yet
examples of waste. In records from 1760 for Sny- if we eat meat or wear and use leather products,
der County, Pennsylvania, two hunters shot more we too are hunters of a sort.
than a thousand animals, including black bears, Within the hunting community our hurry-up,
mountain lions, bobcats, wolves, foxes, bison, have-it-all mentalityour ceaseless consump-
elk, deer, wolverines, and thousands more small- tive entitlementhas begun to manifest itself
er creatures, dressing some of the animals and in troubling ways. Eschewing the time and cost
throwing most of the carcasses into a bonre. of an African trophy hunt involving fair chase,
Theologians were among the rst to criti- some hunters have turned to canned hunting
cize such wasteful butchery. By the late 1700s the killing of often habituated animals in conned
an anonymous British hunter had penned The areasbaited hunting, herding animals with
Sportsmans Companion, or An Essay on Shoot- helicopters, or the shooting of their prey from
ing, advocating fair chase and setting forth the back of Land Cruisers. In Tanzania there
directions to gentlemen in the eld and forest, have been reports of foreign hunters gunning
including limiting the number of game animals down animals, including pregnant females,
killed. Those rules were expanded and rened with AK-47s. In a hunting area called Lolion-
during the next century. In 1887 Teddy Roosevelt do that the government has leased long term
founded the Boone and Crockett Club, a group of to officials from the United Arab Emirates, lo-
inuential American hunters who were worried cal Maasai have reported transport jets leav-
about preserving swaths of their countrys wil- ing with game of all variety, dead and alive.
derness and became instrumental in building the Social scientists writing recently in the journal
U.S. National Park System. Biology Letters describe a kill-and-tell generation
In 1934 at the Norfolk Hotel in Nairobi, Kenya, of hunters exhibiting show-off behavior by
some white hunters established the East African propagating their own kill shots on social media,
Professional Hunters Association. It promulgat- sometimes in poses that undermine the dignity of
ed a kind of honor code and pushed for laws and the animal whose life theyve just taken.
regulations, including a ban on shooting nearly all In South Africa, which has some 2,000 wild
female animals and on shooting animals at water lions, canned lion hunting has grown into a more
holes or near vehicles. While the members worked than $100 million industry, with in excess of 200
to conserve hunting grounds, they also eliminated facilities raising about 6,000 of the big cats for
huge amounts of game from the continent. Today easy killing. According to Ian Michler, a South
technology has taken a quantum leap forward, African safari operator and photographer who

TROP HY HU NT I NG 89
A hunter carries the
pelt of a mountain lion
he shot this year in
southern Utah. Winter
is prime hunting season
because the cats are
easier to track on
snowy ground. Each
season the state sets
a hunt quota, a number
determined in part by
how many livestock
lions killed the year
before. In 2016 they
killed 416 sheep and
other farm animals,
and during the 2016-17
season hunters took
399 lions.
investigated the canned lion industry for the we spoke in the shaded portico, the sun ashed
2015 documentary Blood Lions, the animals are off a blanched elephant skull set nearby, and the
caged and bred sometimes under terrible con- wind stirred the acacia, blowing away a certain
ditions. The young are taken from their mothers noon deadness that often grips the desert. Time
and brought to petting zoos. When male lions seemed to bend to the prehistoric. Tall and slen-
grow into adulthood, many are shot and killed der, wearing a torn shirt and short shorts, Denker
for hunting fees that are much lower than the is legendary for walking up to 40 miles in a day of
cost for a wild lion on a standard 21-day hunt hunting. He also abides by a strict set of principles
($5,000 to $15,000, versus $50,000 and up). And that includes hunting game, such as elephant and
the trophy is virtually guaranteed. Its appall- kudu, that have unfenced free range in historic
ing, Michler says. Its perverse behavior. habitat and shooting only older nonreproductive
Canned hunting has another deleterious ef- animals without xating on large trophies.
fect. While hunters happily take the pelt and Many of the antihunters, they criticize hunt-
head, and the claws and teeth once were sold ing as perverted, Denker said. Hunting as such
in the tourist shops of Nairobi and Zanzibar, is not perverted. Its in our genes. If hunting is
today the bones are most in demandshipped immoral, he continued, I will stop immediate-
to Asia either to produce traditional medicines ly. But it will be the end of nature.
or to be repackaged as tiger bone wine, made
from crushed bones and Chinese herbs and mar- IF IT PAYS, IT STAYS. It was a phrase I heard over
keted to the upper class as a health tonic and and over again, in myriad discussions about Afri-
aphrodisiac. This year South Africa authorized can conservation, in part to describe how money
the export of up to 800 lion skeletons, and the has changed the mind-set of rural populations
worry among biologists, conservation groups, regarding the value of big game. Too often people
and animal-rights activists is that by legitimizing have seen an elephant destroy their annual crop,
and allowing the trade, the country is spurring and some have known the pain of a lurking lion
more demand for lion bones and more killing of taking a child for food. Here theres no mythol-
the continents remaining 20,000 or so wild lions. ogizing or fetishizing, no fund-raising around a
As it turns out, some of the most vocal critics of fuzzy face: The leopard is a killer, the rhino is a
these hunting practices are hunters themselves. ruiner. To protect themselves against the enemy,
If we are not able to convince the majority of villagers often shoot and poison these intruders,
people that hunting is morally in order, says Kai- without an iota of sentimentality. And yet, the ar-
Uwe Denker, a renowned professional hunter in gument goes, if those animals are worth money
Namibia, there is no future for us. In the face to a local community, that community will work
of bad publicity and bad behavior, some hunters hard to conserve and protect its assets.
have fallen back on an economic argumentthat This is something I witnessed rsthand. My
their presence in Africa provides jobs, that its a time in the Kalahari coincided with Nyae Nyaes
viable strategy for poverty alleviation. But Denker annual game count, in which 50 or so San camped
disagrees. I see a very big danger in promoting for three nights at various water holes, trying to
only the nancial side. Livelihoods, income gen- account for the number of animals within 3,500
eration, job creationthis is an additional thing. square miles of sand, bush, and baobab trees.
You cannot justify immoral things with money. As fragile as it is, Nyae Nyae might be called
When I met Denker in a valley in the Erongo a conditional success story, in part because the
Mountains, where he lives 25 miles off the grid hunt quotas have been methodically monitored
in a house he built, he lamented the intrusion of and increased over the years. On occasion cattle
humans on the African landscape. According to have threatened to overrun the conservancy, but
him, hunting, when done properly, brings you the big game have returned, and the menu of an-
into a conversation with your own death. As imals offered to hunters includes leopard, kudu,

92 N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C O C T O B E R 2 0 1 7
Game ranches in the U.S. feature dozens of exotic species, from zebras and yaks to scimitar-
KRUQHGRU\[ZKLFKDUHH[WLQFWLQWKHZLOG$\HDUROGQRYLFHJHWVHOGWUDLQLQJDW)7:
Ranch, in Barksdale, Texas, in 2016. The boy later shot an aoudad, or Barbary sheep, which
he skinned, cleaned, and prepared for meat processing.

and wildebeest, with prices set by a management become so big and valuable. The professionals sell
committee of ve members of the conservancy. hunting packages to clients to recoup the tender
Prots are shared communally: Last year each offer, cover expenses, and make a prot. Many op-
adult over 18 in Nyae Nyae was issued about $70. erate on more than one conservancy; some string
We have enough, the chief, Bobo Tsamkxao, together enough to build their own little efdoms.
told me as he sat in his yard in front of a disinte- When I was there, in September 2016, Marne-
grating house, his wives sitting in a row among wecke had just learned that hed been outbid and
children and litter. The arrangement also requires would lose his Nyae Nyae operation by seasons
that the professional hunter employ and train lo- end. Ill miss the San, he said, but he had an-
cal people and contribute toward development other conservancy to the north that would keep
projects such as schools and health clinics. him busy. What worried him most was the Jenga-
Nyae Nyae became Namibias rst conservancy, like fragility of Nyae Nyae, and that irresponsi-
locally owned and run, in 1998. Every ve years ble people might come with their own selsh
the conservancy is put up for tender, with pro- designscrisscrossing the conservancy with
fessional hunters offering bids to the San for the new roads and upsetting the equilibrium.
right to establish an on-site operation. Last year While Namibia has turned wildlife man-
the winning bid was more than $400,000, a rich agement over to the local population, govern-
number in large part because the elephants have ments in places such as Tanzania have taken an

T ROP HY HU NT I NG 93
A pair of hunters weigh
a black bear shot in
Maine in 2016. The
bear had been baited,
a practice that involves
placing caches of food
to draw the animals
to a particular spot in
the forest before the
hunting season begins.
In Maine the numbers
of bears, which are not
endangered, have been
rising. Mainers recently
rejected a proposal to
ban baiting and hunting
with dogs.
+XQWHUVEULQJWKHUVW
whitetailed deer of
WKHUHJXODUUHDUPV
hunting season to a
market in Jerome,
Michigan. Before the
deer are butchered,
some will be hung along
a buck pole to see
who bagged the largest
animal. Unlike trophy
hunting in Africa, where
big game expeditions
cost tens of thousands
of dollars, deer hunting
in the U.S. is pursued
widely. In Michigan
alone, nearly 600,000
people hunt deer.
RISE OF THE WHITE RHINOS and allowing a minor to hunt. The government
banned Green Mile from conducting hunts in
Nearly extinct in South Africa a century ago, southern
white rhinos rebounded thanks to conservation Tanzania in 2014 but reissued the companys
HRUWVOLPLWHGWURSK\KXQWLQJDQGWKHKDUYHVWLQJ license last year, leading to accusations of cor-
of horns, which regrow. But with a recent surge in ruption. No arrests were made, and Green Mile
SRDFKLQJWKRVHUHERXQGLQJQXPEHUVDUHOHYHOLQJR claims that the guide was at fault.
In the Selous Game Reserve ecosystem, a
Estimated number of white rhinos in South Africa prized trophy hunting destination, aerial surveys
White rhinos are considered estimate the elephant population at some 15,000,
near threatenedthey could down from perhaps 50,000 as recently as 2009.
18,613
face a high risk of extinction if
conservation came to a halt. Why has the Selous been such a killing eld?
6,141
White rhinos says Katarzyna Nowak, a conservation scientist
under private associated with the University of the Free State,
management
Major escalation Qwaqwa, in South Africa. If hunters are coming
in poaching in from all around the world, and youre really
begins, 2008
pumping money earned from trophies back into
the Selous for conservation and antipoaching,
12,472 where have all the elephants gone?
White rhinos Craig Packer sees the conservation of African
managed
by state wildlife in practical terms: If hunters were shoot-
conservancies
ing lions for a million dollars and returning a
Start of regulated million per lion directly into management, they
trophy hunting would be on solid ground. But lions are shot for
1,800
tens of thousands of dollars, and very little of that
Fewer
than 50 money goes back to conservation. With two bil-
0 lion dollars a year we could save and protect the
1895 1968 2015 wildlife in Africas national parks, Packer says. But
that would have to come from international part-
ners such as the World Bank, eco-philanthropists,
opposite tack, directly owning and leasing hunt- and nongovernmental organizations.
ing grounds. Critics say that no country should Some trophy hunters say its not fair to blame
be in the business of selling and proting from them. Make of their sport what you will, they
dead animals. When coffers run low and funds dont set the fees or determine the quotas. And
are needed, they say, hunting quotas get raised they cant control endemic corruption in some
without regard for the animals population num- countries, even if they indirectly feed it. Some
bers. And in those hunting areas where funds claim to share the concerns of environmental-
arent reinvested, theres no wildlife left to hunt. ists who see collapsing habitats and dwindling
That could explain how 40 percent of Tanzanias populations. Kevin Reid, a big-game ranch own-
designated hunting areas have been emptied of er in Texas, says he raises endangered African
game animals during recent decades. A promo- species not only for the sport of trophy hunters
tional video that surfaced in 2014 shows a hunt- but also to create a seed vault of animals, in-
ing company, Green Mile Safari, guiding hunters cluding oryx and white rhinos, to help rewild Af-
from the United Arab Emirates on a disturbing rica once its problems have been sorted. Were
shooting party. The minister of tourism and nat- trying to reverse extinction, Reid says. In the
ural resources said the party violated a host of never ending ironies of the issue, though, the near
laws by, among other things, ring automatic extinction of African elephants, rhinos, and lions
weapons, hunting female and young animals, comes today courtesy of the barrel of a gun.

MONICA SERRANO, NGM STAFF; MEG ROOSEVELT

SOURCES: MICHAEL KNIGHT AND RICHARD EMSLIE, IUCN SSC AFRICAN RHINO SPECIALIST GROUP
 Perhaps, then, it boils down to another set of and red directly at the heart. The bull turned
questions: In light of who weve become as a spe- and began to run, 30 yards before it fell. The cli-
cies, what new form has nature taken, and what ent put one more shot in the brain, and it was
new rules might be practiced there? Might we done. The tusks weighed out at more than 70
owe it to the natural world, after bunging it up so pounds each. Within six hours the carcass had
badly, to act differentlyless acquisitively, more been stripped by the San, who took roughly three
generouslytoward it? Might it now be time to tons of meat for their families.
stop killing the dwindling herds for sport and dis- Two days later the hunting party found an-
play? Or, perhaps more difficult to ponder: Will other big bull. The client red a shot, bringing
these trophies be all we have left someday, tokens it downbut then, as another bull gave chase,
of a wild nature we once knew? he and Marnewecke ran for at least half a mile
before the elephant lost interest in them. Eventu-
ON THE 12TH DAY of the elephant hunt in Nyae ally the process repeated: the ensing of the skin,
Nyae, in the rising heat of the day, Dam, the track- the stripping of the bone, the feeding of families.
er, picked up the marks of three bulls moving to- With that elephant, Marneweckes quota for the
gether. Once Marnewecke and his client saw the year was lled. His client ew home; the tusks of
elephants from a mile away, they knew they were the two elephants would follow, destined for his
big and approached them from downwind so as trophy room back in America.
not to be detected. Two of the bulls were in front I thought about those tusks in the weeks that
of them, but the largest and oldest stood apart and followed, possessions now, totems of a fraught
behind. So they maneuvered out around the oth- accomplishment. They were all that was left
ers and came up on the third as he began to walk of two 15,000-pound sentient beings. Which
toward a clump of brush. The client crouched low brought me to Bobo Tsamkxao, the San chief, and
on one side as the old bullsagging and on his his wives and children, and how they and others
sixth molars, half ground down already, which in the community would eat from those animals.
means he was well on in the last season of his And how they would receive money, at least in-
lifeunwittingly ate on the other side. directly, from those animals as well. But some-
Would killing an old bull like this one help save thing still seemed askew: a paying client killing
all those other elephants in Nyae Nyae? a vulnerable animal to feed the San or conserve
Old bulls, says Caitlin OConnell, a biologist Nyae Nyaes land. Even if hunting is in our genes,
and elephant researcher focused on how the an- as Denker said, the essential question remained:
imals communicate, are a font of wisdom, decid- Was it moral to kill such an imperiled creature at
ing when and where the herd will move in search this moment in our history?
of water, imposing an order on pachyderm soci- After the hunters had packed up, the herds
ety. Contrary to myth, elephant bulls are very sometimes called a parade of elephants, or even
social creatures, she says. They move in groups a memory of elephantssearched for water in
of up to 15, and they maintain a strict hierarchy. temporary peace, unaware that another season
The older bulls exert a very important regulatory would bring another group of hunters. We must
impact on the herd and an emotional-social in- imagine: Memories of elephants wandering all
uence on the younger bulls. Younger bulls in that contested space, some already with price tags
musth, a heightened state of aggression during on their head, there for us as things of wonder. j
which testosterone levels can be 10 times as high
as normal, will be more likely to ght each other Michael Paterniti, a contributing writer at the New
when an older bull is absent. York Times Magazine and a correspondent for GQ
magazine, is at work on a book about the North Pole.
At 15 yards, the client could see every wrinkle David Chancellor has spent years documenting the
draping the elephant. He aimed his 12-pound complex relationship between hunters and their prey.
double rie with its hand-engraved silver stock 7KLVLVKLVUVWVWRU\IRUNational Geographic.

T ROP HY HU NT I NG 99
| D I S PATC H E S | BANGLADESH

Without a Home,
and Without Hope
Members of the Rohingya Muslim minority have ed violent repression
in Buddhist Myanmar for generations. In neighboring Bangladesh,
refugee camps oer asylum, but life there remains bleak.

100
A refugee stands on a plateau near
her hut in a newly built part of
Kutupalong camp. Most Rohingya
who live in this section arrived
UHFHQWO\HHLQJDFDPSDLJQRIWHUURU
in Myanmar launched by the military.
BY BROOK LARMER United Nations and human rights organizations.
P H OTO G R A P H S BY W I L L I A M DA N I E L S The army onslaught, which began after an attack

D
on border posts by suspected Rohingya militants
ance! shouted the army officer, left nine policemen dead, triggered an exodus of
waving a gun at the trembling about 74,000 Rohingya into crowded refugee
girl. Afa, just 14 years old, was camps across the border in Bangladesh.
corralled in a eld with dozens of Before the soldiers left Afas village, they set
girls and womenall members re to the harvest-ready rice elds, looted houses,
of the Rohingya Muslim minority. Soldiers had and shot or stole all the cattle and goats. We
invaded her village in western Myanmar that didnt want to leave our home, Afas father,
morning last October. The men and boys, fearing Mohammed Islam, told me in March, when
for their lives, had dashed into the forests to hide. ve of the familys 11 members staggered into a
After enduring an invasive body search, Afa refugee camp in Bangladesh. But the army has
had watched soldiers drag two women into a rice only one aim: to get rid of all Rohingya.
paddy before others turned their attention to her. Yanghee Lee, the UN special rapporteur for
If you dont dance at once, we will human rights in Myanmar, said the
slaughter you, the officer warned. army attacks very likely amount
Choking back tears, Afa swayed to crimes against humanity. The
ASIA
back and forth. The soldiers clapped army rejects the claim, as does
rhythmically, and the officer slid an MYANMAR Aung San Suu Kyi, Myanmars rst
(BURMA)
arm around her waist. BANGLADESH truly civilian leader after a half cen-
Now thats better, isnt it? he INDIAN
OCEAN
tury of military rule. I dont think
said, ashing a smile. there is ethnic cleansing going on,
The encounter recalled by Afa she told the BBC. Winner of the
marked only the beginning of the Nobel Peace Prize for her long
latest wave of brutality against the estimated struggle against the military junta, Aung San Suu
1.1 million stateless Rohingya who live, precari- Kyi has dismayed rights activists by not speak-
ously, in Myanmars Rakhine state. The Rohingya ing out against the atrocities, much less bringing
are one of the worlds most persecuted minori- perpetrators to justice. In June her government
ties. They are Muslims in a nation dominated by refused to grant visas to members of a new UN
Buddhists. The Rohingya claim they are indige- fact-nding mission. We had a very big hope
nous, and many are descended from settlers who that Suu Kyi and democracy would be good for
came in the 19th and early 20th centuries. In 1982 us, says Moulabi Jafar, a 40-year-old shop owner
the then military government stripped them of who ed to Bangladesh. But the violence only
their citizenship. They are now considered illegal got worse. That came as a big surprise.
immigrants in Myanmar as well as in neighbor- Afa, her father, and three of her siblings spent
ing Bangladesh, where many have ed. ve months on the run. On their rst attempt to
Five years ago clashes between Buddhist and cross the Naf River, which separates Myanmar
Muslim communities left hundreds dead, mostly from Bangladesh, a Burmese patrol boat opened
Rohingya. With their mosques and villages re, capsizing their boat and killing several ref-
torched, 120,000 Rohingya were forced into ugees. They eventually joined about 500,000
camps in Myanmar. This time the Burmese mili- Rohingya refugees, many crammed into squalid
tary unleashed a four-month campaign of terror camps along the border, while her mother and
that included executions, mass detentions, razing ve children remained in hiding in Myanmar.
of villages, and systematic rape, according to the In Balukhali, where some 11,000 recent arrivals

102 N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C O C T O B E R 2 0 1 7 NGM MAPS

Rohingya refugees queue outside Kutupalong camp near the town of Coxs Bazar, waiting to receive staples
IURPWKH:RUOG)RRG3URJUDPPH$ERXWKDOIDPLOOLRQ5RKLQJ\DKDYHHG0\DQPDUIRU%DQJODGHVK

have turned the forested hills into a dusty hive of outside camp, clusters of refugee women beg for
bamboo huts and black tarpaulins, Afa is one money. Men nd sporadic work in the paddies
of the luckier ones. Others in the camps have or salt farms, but wages rarely exceed a dollar a
suffered more. Nur Ayesha, 40, pulls back her day. And Bangladesh, already poor and overpop-
scarf to reveal burns across her face; the military, ulated, doesnt want to host them for long. The
she says, set re to her house while she was still government is oating a plan to move them to a
inside. Ajim Allah, 14, shows me his shriveled remote island in the Bay of Bengal.
left arm, shattered by a police bullet when he The last time I saw Afa, she was sweeping a
emerged from a madrassa last October; three of rectangular patch of dirtthe site of the familys
his friends died of gunshot wounds that night. future hutwhile her father secured bamboo
Yasmin, a 27-year-old from Ngan Chaung poles at each corner. Islam, in his white skullcap
village, recounts how soldiers took turns raping and tunic, attended Friday prayers that day for
her in front of her ve-year-old daughter. But the rst time since he ed Myanmar. But the mis-
the worst moment came when she went to look ery has continued. In late May a cyclone ripped
for her eight-year-old sonand found him in a through, destroying the familys shelterand
rice paddy, a bullet hole in his back. Theres no hundreds of others in Balukhali camp. Nobody
hope for us there anymore, she says, tears rolling died, and his wife and other children nally made
down her cheeks. it to Bangladesh. Still, food is scarce, the monsoon
There is little hope in Bangladesh either. rains continue, and there are reports of renewed
Rohingya cant get proper jobs, enroll children in military operations in Rakhine. As a neighbor
schools, or access basic health care. On the road lamented: Bad days for us never end. j

WITHOUT A HOME 103

Above: Nur Ayesha says she was burned on her face and arm when the Burmese military torched her house
while she was in it. She has received treatment at Kutupalong. Below: Men pray at a mosque being built
from bamboo at Balukhali, a refugee camp in Bangladesh. The Rohingya are Muslims, while Buddhism is
WKHGRPLQDQWUHOLJLRQLQ0\DQPDU%XGGKLVWUHEUDQGVKDYHVWLUUHGXSKDWUHGIRUWKHPLQRULW\5RKLQJ\D
$ERYH(DUO\LQWKHPRUQLQJIDPLO\PHPEHUVZDUPWKHPVHOYHVDURXQGDUHLQDQDOOH\LQ.XWXSDORQJ
5HIXJHHVFRQVWUXFWWKHLUKXWVIURPEUDQFKHVOHDYHVDQGEODFNSODVWLFVKHHWLQJ0DQ\RIWKHVHLPV\VKHOWHUV
were ruined in May by a cyclone. Below: With no access to Bangladeshs health facilities, Rohingya women
ZLWKDPDOQRXULVKHGEDE\ZDLWWREHVHHQE\PHGLFDOSURIHVVLRQDOVZKRZRUNIRULQWHUQDWLRQDOQRQSURWV
 Some Rohingya live outside the
camps near Coxs Bazar. This man
lives in a settlement on the Bay of
Bengal, near trees planted to prevent
erosion and close to a hotel catering
to tourists drawn by the beach.
Nyadma Khudi, a Nenets herder, leads reindeer under
DSLSHOLQHDWWKH%RYDQHQNRYRJDVHOGRQ6LEHULDV
Yamal Peninsula. When gas lines were new, the animals
shied at them. Now they follow Khudi without hesitation
as they must to reach summer pastures in the north.
108
 Life on
the Edge
The Nenets, indigenous reindeer herders in the Russian Arctic,
face two modern obstacles on their long annual migration:
climate change and a giant natural gas eld.
)LYH\HDUROG3DYOLN.KXGL1\DGPDVJUDQGVRQXUJHV
his mother, Edaine, to go faster. He lives all year with
his parents, making the 800-mile annual migration. But
DWDJHVHYHQKHZLOOHQWHUDVWDWHERDUGLQJVFKRROOLNH
other Nenets children, and spend most of the year away.
1\DGPDSLQVD\RXQJEXOOVRWKDWKLVVRQ*RVKD
FDQFXWRWKHYHOYHWDQWOHUV$WUDGHUZLOOSD\
DERXWDSRXQGIRUWKHPWKHOLYLQJWLVVXHDQG
EORRGLQVLGHDUHSUL]HGLQ&KLQHVHWUDGLWLRQDO
medicine. The process is painful to the animal.
By Gleb Raygorodetsky
Photographs by Evgenia Arbugaeva

C
lad in a camouage jacket, the mos-
quito netting unzipped from his
hood, Yuri Khudi squats by the re
inside his large chum. Outside, seven
more of the teepee-like tents clus-
ter in a semicircle. Swells of Siberian tundra roll
north toward the Arctic Ocean; a reindeer herd
grazes on a distant crest. Its mid-July, and the The Puikos, a Nenets
herding family, enjoy a
group of Nenets herders that Yuri leads are about OXQFKRIZKLWHVKVRXS
halfway through an annual trek that takes them inside their chum, or tent.
400 miles north on the Yamal Peninsula to the In summer the Nenets
Arctic coastin normal years, that is. GHSHQGRQWKHVKWKH\
Its been three years since we have made it all catch in lakes and rivers
along their trek up and
the way to our summer pastures by the Kara Sea, down the Yamal Peninsula.
Yuri says as his wife, Katya, pours him a steam- In winter they eat more
ing mug of tea. Our reindeer were too weak for reindeer meat.
the long journey. In the winter of 2013-14, an
unusual warm spell brought rain to southern
Yamal; the deep freeze that followed encased group, called Brigade 4, is a relic of a Soviet col-
most of the winter pastures in thick ice. The rein- lectiveunder Soviet rule the Nenets endured
deer, used to digging through snow to nd lichen, decades of forced collectivization and religious
their main winter food, couldnt dig through the persecution. They survived centuries of Russian
ice. In this herd and others, tens of thousands rule before that. Through it all, theyve managed
starved. Now, in the summer of 2016, the survi- to sustain their language, their animist world-
vors are still recovering. view, and their nomadic traditions.
The canvas entrance of the chum aps open, The Nenets are one of the most resilient in-
and a reindeer, antlers down, bursts inside. It digenous groups in the Arctic, says Bruce Forbes
pauses in front of the re, shakes vigorously, and of the University of Lapland in Finland, a geogra-
ops down to chew its cud meditatively. pher who has studied them for decades.
This young cow lost her mom, so we raised Today, however, that resilience is being tested
her ourselves inside the chum, explains Yuri, in new ways. Climate scientists say the kind of
taking a cautious sip of tea. She doesnt like rain on snow event that diminished the herds
mosquitoes. Hopefully next year shell have a calf three years ago will become more frequent and in-
of her own. Were down to about 3,000 reindeer tense in the Arctic as the climate warms. As I talk
now, half of our usual herd. to Yuri, the region is suffering another record-hot
The Nenets have undertaken this annual mi- summer; the thermometer has already hit 94F. It
gration for centuries, and at 800 miles round- hasnt rained for weeks, and its hard for reindeer
trip, its one of the longest in the world. Yuris to pull the loaded sleighs across the dry tundra.

114 N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C O C T O B E R 2 0 1 7
Before the summer is out, a boy and more than the world. But these days at least some of them
2,300 reindeer will die from anthrax on southern seem precariously close to falling off.
Yamal, and dozens of people will get sick
a direct result of thawing permafrost, which PERCHED ON THE LEFT SIDE of the sleigh, his
allowed animal carcasses buried during an out- legs rmly planted on a runner, Nyadma Khudi
break in the 1940s to reemerge, still bearing raps the backs of his reindeer with a tyura long
infectious microbes. pole of polished wood ending in an antler knob.
Yet climate change isnt even the greatest Grunting softly, he urges the four bulls forward
threat to the Nenets. Development is. Russias through shrub willows and clouds of mosquitoes.
quest for new sources of hydrocarbons has en- Nyadma is Yuris elder brother and a former bri-
croached on pastures that were already tight for gade chief. As a sign of respect, his caravan of
the estimated 255,000 reindeer and the 6,000 several sleighs is in the lead as Brigade 4 presses
nomadic herders that live on Yamal. And it has on toward Bovanenkovo.
restricted the essential migration of some of the After about an hour, Nyadma suddenly stops.
herds. The Bovanenkovo gas eld, the largest on Well break here for a bit, to let everybody catch
Yamal, sits directly in Brigade 4s path. The herd up, he says, as he shes a ringing cell phone out
must cross the eld, with its roads and pipelines, of his capacious, bell-shaped reindeer-skin coat.
to get to the summer pastures. Other sleighs pull up behind us. The harmony of
The Nenets have always lived close to the clicking reindeer hooves soon gives way to the
edge; in their language, Yamal means edge of cacophony of dial tones and human chatter as

LIFE ON THE EDGE 115

Well defended against summer mosquitoes, cousins
Kristina (left) and Vera (right) Khudi ride the silver
dragona pipeline that collects natural gas from
wellheads at Bovanenkovo. Herders encounter
many pipeline sections on their annual migration.
the Nenets enjoy one of the few perks of having a
mega-development in their backyard: Were now
The Paths
within range of Bovanenkovos cell phone tower. of Resilience
I step away from the sleighs to stretch my legs.
For centuries Nenets reindeer herders have
The midnight sun lls the lakes and waterways
migrated to summer pastures on the Yamal
ahead of us with an amber glow. A distant hum,
Peninsula, returning south in winter. Climate
like that of a jet before takeoff, draws my atten-
change, with its summer droughts and win-
tion; its coming from the gas eld, still many
ter rains, challenges that way of lifeas does
miles away.
Russias development of Yamals natural gas.
Yamals natural gas is the cornerstone of Rus-
sias energy strategythe new source that will
replace declining elds to the south and east of
hereand Bovanenkovo is the cornerstone of Ya- LUCRATIVE LANDS
The sparsely populated Yamal Peninsula holds more
mal. Its operated by Gazprom, the state-owned WKDQDIWKRI5XVVLDVQDWXUDOJDVUHVHUYHVDQGDERXW
company that produces most of Russias natural as much as the entire United States.

gas and supplies more than a third of the Europe- Proven reserves of natural gas, 2017
Trillion cubic feet
an Unions imports. According to Alexey Miller,
Russia
Gazproms CEO, Yamal could produce as much as Yamal Peninsula, 367 1,773
13 trillion cubic feet of gas a year by 2030more Iran
than a third of Russias projected total. Bovanen- 1,183

kovo alone has conrmed reserves of nearly 173 Qatar

858
trillion cubic feet. Linked to the mainland by its
U.S.
own airport and a 350-mile railroad, and to Rus- 369
sias gas grid by two 750-mile pipelines, Bovanen-
kovo is also a launchpad for Gazproms further
THE BOOM AT BOVANENKOVO
expansion into the Russian Arctic. 7RJHWDWWULOOLRQFXELFIHHWRIJDVDWWKLVHOGWKH
Global warming is the greatest obstacle to that 5XVVLDQFRPSDQ\*D]SURPKDVEXLOWURDGVZHOOSDGVDQG
SLSHOLQHVWKDWLQWHUIHUHZLWKDUHLQGHHUPLJUDWLRQFRUULGRU
ambitious agenda. Alexey Osokin is deputy di-
rector of Gazproms engineering center, which 1987
has collected and analyzed 25 years of weather
and permafrost data from meteorological sta-
tions and gas wells around the Yamal Peninsu- River

la. One cannot argue with the data, he says.

There is no doubt that the climate is warming.
In summer, thawing permafrost undermines the
stability of Gazprom structures. The company Lake
0 mi 2
has had to install refrigeration units to keep the 0 km 2

ground frozen around wellheads and pipelines.

2016
Some effects of thawing permafrost are hard to
prepare for, Osokin says. In the summer of 2014 a
gaping crater, 130 feet wide by 115 feet deep, sud-
denly formed in the tundra 19 miles southeast
of Bovanenkovo. Experts blame an eruption of Development
methane gas that had been trapped under frozen in orange
ground. They worry that if a similar eruption were
to occur under the gas eld itself, it could cause
considerable damage. In the summer of 2017 two
DERIVED FROM SATELLITE IMAGERY

118 N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C O C T O B E R 2 0 1 7
 A R C T I C
Belyy
yy
Island O C E A N
K a r a S e a
Ma l y g i n S t r a i t

Shokalskogo
g
Island
Moscow MAP Drovyanoy
AREA
CI LE
RC
IC
ARCT

A
RUSSIA
Reindeer-herding
territories

Gy
G y d
U

da
Tambey
B
ay
Reindeer herding

a
Kharasavey KRUZENSHTERNSKOYE
Major herding route GAS FIELD

S
Sabetta

P e
Development Liquefied
natural gas
Railroad

n
facility

N
E

Proposed railroad
UR

i n
Pipeline Exporting by Sea s
T
AS

Proposed pipeline
$QHZIDFLOLW\WKDWZRXOG u
la
RP

Bovanenkovo I H[SRUWJDVIURPWKH<DPDO
1DWXUDOJDVHOG Peninsula is expected to
BOVANENKOVO
ME

GAS FIELD RSHQLQ6DEHWWDLQODWH

SUM

(Area enlarged at left)

N

0 mi 50 Lake Seyakha
0 km 50
Neyto
E

Gulf

Reindeer Routes
'LHUHQWJURXSVRIKHUGHUV
IROORZGLHUHQWURXWHV7KH\
P

PRYHUHLQGHHUHYHU\YHGD\VLQ Yaptiksale
ZLQWHUDQGHYHU\GD\LQVXPPHU
of
Ob

y
Ba
z
Ust Yuribey Ta
L
SU

M
M

Baydarata ER
PA
ST U
T a z

Bay R E
A

Mys Kamennyy
R U S S I A
M

P e
n i

Yamburg
Payuta
I N S

n s

Novyy Port
u
Y

l a
T A

Thawing Ground Nomadic Existence

,QDKHDWZDYHUHOHDVHG $IWKRIWKH1HQHWV
N

DQWKUD[IURPWKDZLQJSHUPD- DUHKHUGHUV7KH\KDYHIHZ
[HGVHWWOHPHQWVRQHRI
U

IURVWUHVXOWLQJLQWKHGHDWKRID
ZKLFKLVLQ<DU6DOH
O

FKLOGDQGVRPHUHLQGHHU
M
L Yar Sale
A
R Obskaya
U Ob Panayevsk
ARCTIC CIRCLE
Salekhard Aksarka
LAUREN C. TIERNEY, THEODORE A. SICKLEY,
AND RYAN T. WILLIAMS, NGM STAFF
SOURCES: BRUCE FORBES, ARCTIC CENTRE, UNIVERSITY
OF LAPLAND; GAS INFRASTRUCTURE EUROPE; EUROPEAN
NETWORK OF TRANSMISSION SYSTEM OPERATORS FOR GAS; WI
ANNA DEGTEVA AND OTHERS, PASTORALISM: RESEARCH, POLICY NTE
R PA
AND PRACTICE,$/9$52,9$12))1$6$*2''$5'63$&( ST U R E
FLIGHT CENTER; ARCTIC COUNCIL; ENERGY INFORMATION
ADMINISTRATION; MINISTRY OF INDUSTRY AND ENERGY, RUSSIA;
MINISTRY OF NATURAL RESOURCES AND ENVIRONMENT, RUSSIA
Nadym
(LJKW\\HDUROG1LQD.KXGLVWHSVRXWVLGHWKHIDPLO\FKXPDERYH&RYHUHGZLWKUHLQGHHUVNLQVLQ
WKHZLQWHUWKHWHHSHHOLNHWHQWSURWHFWVWKHIDPLO\IURPEORZLQJVQRZDQGELWLQJFROG3HGDYD3XLNR
EHORZWKURZVDODVVRPDGHRIEUDLGHGVWULSVRIWDQQHGUHLQGHHUVNLQRYHUHHLQJUHLQGHHU
,QVSULQJZKHQVQRZDQGIUR]HQULYHUVVWLOOIDYRUVOHGGLQJWKHKHUGVSXVKUDSLGO\QRUWKDERYH,Q
VRPHUHLQGHHUGLHGEHORZZKHQXQVHDVRQDEOHUDLQIUR]HWRWKLFNLFHWKDWSUHYHQWHGJUD]LQJ
$IWHUDFRXSOHRIZHHNVZLWKRXWIRRGVD\V<XUL.KXGLWKH\ZHDNHQDQGVRRQOLHGRZQDQGGRQWJHWXS
6LVWHUV9HUDDQG6RSKLD.KXGLZDONLQJUHFHLYHWKH
ZKLWHFDUSHWWUHDWPHQWIURP*D]SURPWKHFRPSDQ\
that operates Bovanenkovo, as the herd crosses the
JDVHOG7KHJHRWH[WLOHLVVXSSRVHGWRPDNHLWHDVLHU
IRUUHLQGHHUEXOOVWRSXOOWKHVOHLJKVDFURVVWKHURDG
more eruptions were reported on the peninsula.
One occurred near the camp of a herder.

BRIGADE 4 HAS A DEADLINE: a day and an

hour when, by appointment with Gazprom, it is
to cross the busiest road through Bovanenkovo.
After two days of picking our way through an
industrial maze, we nally reach the crossing
place. On the concrete road, large trucks roll by
every minute. Crossing is treacherous for both
reindeer and herders.
This is why we coordinate the road crossings
with Gazprom, says Galina Mataras, director of
a nongovernmental organization that represents
the Nenets herders. Its taken a lot of time and
effort to make sure that the crossing is expedient
and safe. At the appointed hour, traffic is stopped
and a large swath of white geotextile fabric is
unrolled across the road. The fabric eases the $V%ULJDGHSUHSDUHV
movement of sleighs across the concrete slabs. WREUHDNFDPSDQGPRYH
For Gazprom the white carpet affair is an an- to a new pasture, Natalia
nual photo opportunity. A helicopter has own in 3XLNRKROGVDURSHZLWK
other women to corral the
from Salekhard to deliver representatives of the reindeer. The men will pick
company, the herders own business enterprise, RXWEXOOVIURPWKHKHUGWR
a couple of NGOs, the regional government, and pull the sleighs.
the local press. As the reindeer caravan begins
the crossing, Gazprom and the press document
the event. Workers in crisp blue coveralls, with a Nyadma peers through his eld glasses, scouting
silver Gazprom logo branded on their backs, line the pass ahead. His sons Gosha and Ilya pull up
up on both sides of the white carpet to take pic- in their sleighs. Now everybody is looking in the
tures and get seles with the herd. same direction through their binoculars, talking
Thats it! announces Nyadma, after weve agitatedly in Nenets. In the distance a new dirt
crossed the road at last. No more roads or pipe- road scars the tundra.
lines. We dont have to rush and break camp every Later we discover a new feeder line parallel to
night now. We can take our time shing. the road; connecting a gas well to a compressor,
It wasnt easy, when Gazprom arrived, he it cut across our next campsite. Neither the road
goes on. In the early years at Bovanenkovo, af- nor the pipe were here three summers ago, when
ter construction began in the 1980s, rail lines, the brigade last passed through. The Nenets
pipelines, roads, sandpits, and buildings were hadnt been alerted to their construction. They
popping up everywhere. We felt trapped, like shouldnt be there, Nyadma says.
there was no place for us on our ancestral land,
Nyadma says. We understand that the country AT THE CAMPSITE, between the road and the
needs natural gas, and once the main construc- pipeline, I discover the source of the distant hum
tion stopped, we gured a way around this mess. I heard a few days ago. Just a few hundred yards
We can cope with it. He pauses. As long as they away now, its a crimson ball of re belching out
dont build any more roads or pipelines. of a sooty pipea gas are that serves to release
An hour later we stop on a high knoll, and excess pressure from the pipeline. In the swirling

124 N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C O C T O B E R 2 0 1 7
air around the ames, tundra, water, and sky melt on line in the early 2020s on the Kara Sea coast.
into a mirage of browns, greens, and blues. The It will encroach on exceptionally rich pastures.
hum has become a powerful roar that drowns out As Im pondering all this, the roaring gas are
most other sounds. abruptly shuts off. The thermals dissipate around
And from this vantage point, the notion that the pipe, and the landscape beyond settles back
the Nenets reindeer herders can coexist in a into its familiar shapes and colors. Around me,
balanced way with oil and gas development the next generation of Nenets herders are prac-
an idea I heard consistently from Gazprom offi- ticing their lassoing skills on sleighs, dogs, and
cials, the regional government, NGOs, and the each other, while the next generation of Nenets
herders themselvesseems an illusion. A new mothers feed their dolls in makeshift toy chums.
gas processing facility, with its associated roads In the silence, the familiar sounds returnthe
and pipelines, is scheduled to come on line at low voices of the herders, the cries of the children
Bovanenkovo in the next couple of years. Two and dogs, the clicks of the reindeer hooves. For a
new railroad branches are being constructed moment, everything seems all right again on the
to connect hubs at Bovanenkovo and Payuta in edge of the world. j
western Yamal with oil and gas terminals on the
east coast. Those railway lines will cut across the
(YJHQLD$UEXJDHYDSKRWRJUDSKHGWKH$UFWLFUHVRXUFH
migration routes of most of the Nenets herds. ERRPIRUWKH0DUFKLVVXHArchipelago of Hope,
Even more troubling for Brigade 4, a new gas eld *OHE5D\JRURGHWVN\VERRNRQLQGLJHQRXVSHRSOHV
called Kruzenshternskoye is projected to come DQGFOLPDWHFKDQJHZLOOEHSXEOLVKHGLQ1RYHPEHU

LIFE ON THE EDGE 125

5HLQGHHUPHDWLVDULFKVRXUFHRIPLFURQXWULHQWV
minerals, and vitamins, and a staple of the Nenets diet.
When they slaughter an animal, they like to eat the meat
UDZZKLOHLWVVWLOOZDUP%XWGXULQJDRXWEUHDNRI
DQWKUD[RQVRXWKHUQ<DPDOWKH\FXUWDLOHGWKDWSUDFWLFH
:HDULQJDFXUWDLQDQGDFDUGERDUGFURZQ.ULVWLQD.KXGL
EHFRPHVWKHWXQGUDSULQFHVVLQWKH1HQHWVFDPS
QHDUWKH.DUD6HD7KHHLJKW\HDUROGVD\VKHUKDSSLHVW
WLPHLVVXPPHUZKHQDKHOLFRSWHUVHQWE\*D]SURPDQG
WKHUHJLRQDOJRYHUQPHQWEULQJVKHUDQGRWKHUNLGVKRPH
from school to their migrating families. In fall, when the
chopper returns, some kids hide in the tundra.
 | PROOF | A P H OTO G R A P H E R S J O U R N A L

On All Floors
Every weekend, apartment
hallways in Manilas Tondo district
teem with lifeand hope.

In a housing project in the Philippines, near Manilas shuttered Smokey Mountain

dump, children and grandchildren of former workers frolic in hallways and stairwells.
0RVWKRXVLQJLQWKLVDUHDLVLPV\EXWWKLVVWUXFWXUHLVVWXUG\DQGSHUPDQHQW

130
| PROOF | A P H OTO G R A P H E R S J O U R N A L

By Jeremy Berlin
Photographs by Mariusz Janiszewski

The paint is peeling. The oors are grimy. The basketball

nets are frayed. And no one seems to mind.
Children laugh and play games. Men take sies- able to organize effectively, raise their voices, and
tas. Roosters strut down the hallway. In one of the demand better living conditions.
worlds most densely populated cities, lifes rich What matters here, she adds, as anywhere
pageant plays out on every oor. else, is location, location, location The city is
Thats what Polish photographer Mariusz where jobs are Those who have been moved by
Janiszewski found last year when he visited a the government to distant relocation sites have
government housing project in Barangay 128, a found that they cannot survive there.
section of Manilas Tondo district. Built in the Many of the available jobs today are in the in-
1990s near Smokey Mountainan internation- formal sector, which includes Manilas thriving
ally infamous dump that once housed more than drug cartels. For other employment opportuni-
two million tons of trashits still home to many ties, completing high school or college is crucial.
of the sites former workers. Regardless of education level, the residents of
Janiszewski says hed shot in the Philippines Barangay 128 have no shortage of two precious
before but always in a typical documentary commodities: hope and resilience.
style. This time he had something else in mind. The most important thing that ows from
I wanted to show how daily life looks in an these pictures, suggests Janiszewski, is that de-
overpopulated place like Manila, he says, and spite the odds, people here can enjoy life, and
how its lived in semi-open spaces and stairwells. they often have a smile on their faces. Ive always
To do that, he chose not to take pictures from a admired that. j
variety of perspectives but to stay in one place
and wait for the surprising and unpredictable. TAIWAN 0 mi 400
C HINA
Each oor looked like an identically designed 0 km 400
stage, he says, but soon revealed a distinct mi- NGM MAPS

lieu: women cooking, men gambling, children PHIL

ASIA IP
playing cards. Janiszewski returned each week- Manila PI PACIFIC
NE

OCEAN
end to document these living tableaux, capturing VIETNAM
S

scenes of family, friends, and neighbors bonding. South

China
Mary Racelis, a social anthropologist at Ateneo Sea
de Manila University, says that sense of commu-
BRUNEI
nity is key in a place like Tondo. Many residents
are informal settlers, once called squatters. Long M A L A Y S I A

considered second-class citizens, theyve often

been denied jobs, housing, and basic services. I N D O N E S I A

Over the years these people have formed

%R\VVPRNHFLJDUHWWHVDQGUHOD[RQDELF\FOHWKDWV
networks that have enabled them to survive and EHHQFRQYHUWHGLQWRDULFNVKDZ%HUQDUGLWD&KXUFKLOO
nd new opportunities, she says. With the help a Filipino historian, says its rare to see children this
of NGOs and leftist political groups, theyve been young smoking in the Philippines.

132 N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C O C T O B E R 2 0 1 7
Young people play a game of cards, using dried pasta in lieu of money. Photographer Mariusz
-DQLV]HZVNLVD\VJDPEOLQJDQGJURXSJDPHVDUHFRPPRQDFWLYLWLHVLQWKLVSDUWRI0DQLOD
$URRVWHUOLNHO\DJKWLQJFRFNZDONVE\UHVLGHQWVLQDKDOOZD\&RFNJKWLQJLVDSRSXODU
VSRUWLQWKH3KLOLSSLQHVEXWLWVSHUPLWWHGRQO\RQ6XQGD\VKROLGD\VDQGGXULQJHVWDV
 If You Own or Previously Owned,
Purchased, or Received as a Gift or
Customer Service Exchange Certain
Sony Xperia Smartphones and Tablets,
<RX&RXOG*HW%HQHWVIURPD
Class Action Settlement.
Para ver este aviso en espaol, visita www.XperiaWaterproofSettlement.com
A proposed class action settlement has been preliminarily
approved by a Court against Sony Mobile Communications
(USA), Inc. and Sony Electronics, Inc. (collectively Sony)
concerning certain Xperia smartphones and tablets (Mobile
Devices) in Landes v. Sony, 2:17-cv-2264-JFB-SIL (E.D.N.Y.).
Those included in the settlement have legal rights and options
that must be exercised by certain deadlines.
What is the lawsuit about?
The lawsuit alleges that certain Mobile Devices are not
waterproof and are not capable of ordinary underwater use.
Sony denies the allegations and that the Mobile Devices are
defective. The Court did not decide which side was right.
Instead, the parties decided to settle.
Am I included in the proposed settlement?
Subject to certain limited exclusions, you are included if as of
August 3, 2017,
You own(ed), purchase(d), or received as a gift or as a
customer service exchange a Mobile Device that was
Manufactured, marketed, sold and/or distributed by Sony
Mobile Communications (USA), Inc. in any of the fifty States,
the District of Columbia and Puerto Rico.
The class includes persons, entities and/or organizations.
The Mobile Devices are certain Xperia mobile smartphone
and tablet models. For a specific list, visit the website, or call
1-844-367-8807.
What does the settlement provide?
The proposed settlement provides for: (1) a warranty extension
for damage resulting from water intrusion by an additional 12
months for Mobile Devices that are still in-warranty and six
months for those Mobile Devices that are out-of-warranty,
both measured as of the date of the issuance of the Preliminary
Approval Order; (2) changes to packaging, labeling and
advertising intended for end users in the United States relating
to waterproof or substantially identical terms to water
resistance or its substantial and/or functional equivalent for
Mobile Devices currently being sold by Sony or any newly-
introduced models with certain IP ratings; and (3) a claim
process for eligible Class Members who previously had timely
claims for water-related damages denied by Sony for their in-
warranty Mobile Devices in which Sony will pay 50% of the
at-issue Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price for the applicable
Mobile Device. Class counsel will file a request for attorneys
fees, costs and expenses, and Class Representatives awards to
be paid by Sony. The motion will be posted on the website after
it is filed.
What are my options?
Stay in the Class and receive settlement benefits. You
automatically receive a warranty extension but, if applicable,
must submit a claim to receive reimbursement benefits. The
deadline to submit Claim Forms is January 30, 2018.
If you do nothing, you stay in the class and still get the warranty
extension and other benefits, but will not be able to sue Sony or
receive reimbursement benefits.
You can exclude yourself if you dont want to be part of the
settlement. You wont get any settlement benefits, but you keep
the right to sue Sony about the issues in the lawsuit. You must
mail to the settlement administrator your written request for
exclusion postmarked by November 1, 2017.
You can object to all or part of the settlement by November 1, 2017,
if you dont exclude yourself. The full notice describes how to
obtain settlement relief, exclude yourself, and object.
The Court will hold a fairness hearing on December 1, 2017
at 1:30 p.m. EST in courtroom 1020 in federal court, 100
Federal Plaza, Central Islip, NY 11722 to (a) consider whether
the proposed settlement is fair, reasonable, and adequate, and
(b) decide the plaintiffs lawyers request for fees, costs and
expenses of up to $1,000,000.00 and awards for each of the
Class Representatives of up to $1,000.00. You may appear at the
hearing, but you are not required to and you may hire an attorney
to appear for you, at your own expense.
For more information or a claim form call or visit the website.

1-844-367-8807
yt^
FURTHER
A G L I M P S E O F W H AT S N E W A N D N E X T

UNDER biouorescence, and other underwater

phenomena that humans rarely see.
T H E W AV E S Walking through the interactive
encounter is in many ways better
How close can you really get to two than the real thing. An Academy
monster squid ghting? Award-winning team uses ultrahigh-
Very close, it turns out. This month resolution photo animation, video
National Geographics newest experi- mapping, and audience-responsive
ence, Ocean Odyssey, opens in Times walls and oors to provide more sights
Square in New York City, bringing visi- and sounds than if you were swimming
tors face-to-face with humpback whales, through the Pacic yourself. Starting
great white sharks, and a pair of Hum- October 6, you can visit the immersive
boldt squid locked in ferocious battle. experienceand leave completely dry.
The experience draws on the latest re-
search of marine biologist David Gruber, Go FURTHER into National Geo-
graphics Encounter: Ocean Odyssey
a National Geographic emerging explorer in New Yorks Times Square. Buy
who specializes in bioluminescence and tickets at NatGeoEncounter.com.

IMAGE: RENDERING BY NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC

ENCOUNTER: OCEAN ODYSSEY
 SAVE TODAY

explore
TOMORROW

National Geographic subscribers

could save on car insurance with
a special discount from GEICO.
1-866-496-3576
geico.com/natgeo

Some discounts, coverages, payment plans and features are not available in all states or all GEICO companies. GEICO contracts with various membership entities and other organizations,
but these entities do not underwrite the offered insurance products. Discount amount varies in some states. One group discount applicable per policy. Coverage is individual. In New
York a premium reduction may be available. GEICO may not be involved in a formal relationship with each organization; however, you still may qualify for a special discount based on your
membership, employment or afliation with those organizations. GEICO is a registered service mark of Government Employees Insurance Company, Washington, D.C. 20076; a Berkshire
Hathaway Inc. subsidiary. 2017 GEICO


Jim Beam Black Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 43% Alc./Vol. 2017 James B. Beam Distilling Co., Clermont, KY
All trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Awarded International Wine & Spirits

Y
Competitions 2016 Bourbon Trophy.

STO R

M A K E H I
 A G LO B E -T R O T T I N G J O U R N E Y T H R O U G H

THE WORLD OF BEER

This richly illustrated atlasand travel guide

explores beer history, geography, and trends on
six continents. Travel tips include lists of the best
breweries, unique brewing traditions, and beer
festivals around the globe.

AVA I L A B L E W H E R E V E R B O O K S A R E S O L D
A N D AT N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .C O M / B O O K S

N ATG E O B O O K S @ N ATG E O B O O K S National Geographic Partners, LLC