Plaza Roma Manila Cathedral
Plaza Roma Manila Cathedral
Plaza Roma Manila Cathedral
On January 24, 1571 , feast of St. John the Baptist, the Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legaspi founded
the city of Manila . He earlier took possession of Maynilad, the native settlement of Rajah Matanda and Rajah
Sulayman on May 19, 1571 and firmly established Spanish authority in the newly conquered and untrammeled
turf. The historic day happened to be the feast of Santa Potenciana and to honor her, she was made patroness of
the new territory. Armed with the Spanish sword and the Cross, Legaspi, in his role as conquistador, apportioned
a parcel of land for the church of the new settlement under the patronage of La Purisima Inmaculada Concepcion.
The Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception administered the religious affairs of Manila until such time
it became a parish and Manila was created into a diocese. It was a simple structure of nipa and bamboo, materials
which were readily available during that time.
It had for its first parish priest the secular Juan de Villanueva. The other religious who became the pillars of this
parish were
Juan de Vivaneta and Nicolas Riccio.
The Church of Manila was established by the secular Juan de Vivero who had the honor of baptizing Rajah
Matanda. Vivero first arrived in these shores in 1566 as chaplain of the nao or galleon of San Geronimo which had
come to support the Spanish colonization of the newly discovered islands. He was given the special privilege and
sole faculty by the Archbishop of Miexico to establish the spiritual administration of the new Philippine colony.
Later, Vivero would become the first vicar-general and the first ecclesiastical judge of Manila.
This church was also witness to the events that would threaten the city and its residents. On November 30, 1574
, the feast of St. Andrew the Apostle, the Spanish forces were able to quell Limahong’s invasion. Because of such
fortunate turn of events, the holy apostle was made patron saint of Manila . The victory was celebrated with
fireworks and a Mass with sermon was held in the Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception in Manila .
As Spain firmly established herself in the new colony through the succeeding years, so did the Church which
witnessed the creation of the Diocese of Manila. On February 6, 1579, Pope Gregory XIII issued in Rome the
Papal Bull establishing the Bishopric or the Diocese of Manila, suffragan to the Archbishopric of Mexico. (A copy
of this Bull is kept at the Archdiocesan Archives of Manila). The discrepancy as to the exact year of creation of the
diocese – whether 1578, as indicated in the copy of the bull, or 1579 – arose because in he late 15 th century, the
Julian system of reckoning days within the calendar was questioned until the Gregorian calendar was adopted.
The church of Manila was raised to the rank of cathedral under the title of “Immaculate Conception of the Blessed
Virgin Mary.” The cathedral was to be under a bishop who would look after the appropriate enlargement of its
building and restoration into a cathedral church.
In the same year, Fray Domingo de Salazar, a Dominican religious from the Convent of San Esteban in
Salamanca, Spain, was presented by King Philip II of Spain to the Pope for the position of Bishop of the Diocese
of Manila. A year after, in May of 1580, he left for his new assignment by way of Mexico, bringing with him thirty
fellow Dominicans, many of whom died or fell ill during and after the voyage to Mexico. Only one co-religious and
six other secular priests were able to accompany him to Manila where he would reign as first bishop of the diocese.
Meanwhile, the Spanish monarchy was making preparations for the construction of the new cathedral in Manila.
On May 13, 1579, a Royal Cedula from the Spanish king mandated the governor general of the Philippines to
construct a moderately ample cathedral on a convenient site, the expenses of which were to be divided among
the natives, Royal Treasury, and the encomenderos. Another Royal Cedula of the same date ordered the Casa
de Contratacion or Office of Contracts and Agreements to give the city of Manila 15 ducats, worth 187,000
maravedis, intended for ornaments, chalices, and other essentials which the cathedral would require. On May 22,
1579, part of the tithes belonging to the king during a period of ten years was given for the construction of the
Manila Cathedral. With such amount and support, the construction of the cathedral began. This support from the
monarchy continued until the 18 th century when the cathedral, a victim of natural disasters and time, underwent
repairs and reconstructions.
Bishop Domingo de Salazar and his surviving companions, the Dominican Fray Cristobal de Salvatierra and six
secular priests – Diego Vasquez de Mercado, Martin de Ribera, Francisco de Morales, Geronimo Vasquez,
Santiago de Castro, and Francisco de Pareja – left Acapulco on March 29, 1581 aboard the galleon San Martin.
They were accompanied by six Franciscan friars under Fr. Antonio de Villanueva, a good number of Augustinians
under Fr. Juan Pimentel, and three Jesuits with their rector Fr. Antonio Sedeño. In August of 1581, they finally
reached the Ladrones islands, and days after reached Samar and then the Bicol peninsula where the San Martin
took refuge in the bay of Ibalon due to very bad weather. From there, Salazar went by land crossing the Bicol area
and reached Laguna de Bay after trekking the Sierra Madre mountains. By boat, he finally reached Manila by way
of the river Pasig on September 17, 1581.
On September 21, 1581, with full pontifical and royal authority, Bishop Salazar created the act to erect and found
the new Cathedral of Manila under the advocation of the Immaculate Conception, the original titular patroness of
the old parochial church. He then proceeded to build a cathedral to replace the old parish church.
The first Cathedral of Manila was constructed by Fray Bishop Domingo de Salazar out of wood, bamboo, and nipa
– materials which were used in all houses and other basic community services in the city. It was on December 21,
1581 that the parish church of Manila was raised formally into a cathedral.
T h e F i r s t S yn o d o f M a n i l a
Under Bishop Domingo de Salazar, the first synod of Manila was held in 1582 where 90 ecclesiastical and religious
persons and six captains or heads, who were the oldest and most eminent, attended. The sessions lasted until
1586 holding a duration of four years. The Sinodo de Manila of 1582 was the first synod ever held in the Philippines.
In it, matters relating to the governance of the new colonial territory were discussed. Among the subjects
deliberated upon were the teaching of catechism in the native dialect and the declaration of human rights of both
native Christians and non-Christians.
In 1591, at the age of 76 years, Bishop Salazar sailed from Manila to Spain, accompanied by the Dominican Fray
Miguel de Benavides, to work for the erection of Manila into an archdiocese. He left the cathedral building in a
state of near completion, enough for mass to be celebrated in it. The first stone cathedral had a central nave and
two collateral ones.
The succeeding years saw the continuous efforts made to complete the cathedral structure. A Royal Cedula, dated
June 11, 1594, ordered Governor General Dasmariñas to allocate 12,000 ducats for the bells, the ornaments,
retablos, organs, lamps, and other materials the cathedral would require.
While in the court of Madrid in Spain, Bishop Salazar had a slight accident which greatly weakened him. Fatigued
by his travels, work, and age, Bishop Salazar died on December 4, 1594. He died without returning to Manila to
reign as its first archbishop and without ever seeing his
T h e E l e v a t i o n o f M a n i l a a s Ar c h d i o c e s e : 1 5 9 5
On August 14, 1595, Pope Clement VIII issued a brief erecting Manila into a Metropolitan Archdiocese and its
three suffragan dioceses of Nueva Segovia (Vigan), Nueva Caceres (Naga), and Santisimo Nombre de Jesus (
Cebu ). Its new territory now extended “100 leagues north and south, the villages were distant from its capital,
being 40 leagues to the north, and about 60 to the south. It is bounded on the north by the Diocese of Nueva
Segovia and on the south by that of Cebu. Its western boundaries are maritime.”
T h e F i r s t Ar c h b i s h o p : F r a y I g n a c i o d e S a n t i b a ñ e z
The second bishop assigned to Manila to reign as the first archbishop of the newly erected archdiocese was Fray
Ignacio de Santibañez of the Order of San Francisco.
Archbishop Santibañez gained fame as a very good preacher and speaker. However, his administration of the
archdiocese was short-lived. He died on August 14, 1598 only two months and four days since he took over the
Archdiocese of Manila.
Archbishop Benavides initiated the rebuilding of the Manila Cathedral in stone but he never lived long enough to
see the cathedral finished. He passed away on July 26, 1605, two years after his ascension to the archbishopric.
The cathedral project was left in the hands of his successor, Diego Vasquez de Mercado, who became archbishop
on June 1, 1610.
By 1607, the Manila Cathedral was in such a miserable condition that it became necessary to abandon it and
transfer cathedral services to the Chapel of San Andres of the Colegio de Santa Potenciana. This condition
continued for the next seven years until a new one of stone was built.
Archbishop Mercado continued the late prelate’s project. He expanded, beautified, and completed the cathedral
building. In 1614, a new Manila Cathedral of three naves, seven chapels, and ten altars arose. It was built largely
from funds donated by the licentiate Don Francisco Gomez de Arellano, fourth dean of the cathedral, from the
alms solicited by the good archbishop from residents of Manila,and from the Royal Treasury.
The seven chapels of the Manila Cathedral were built from donations given by generous patrons of the cathedral.
The capilla mayor or largest chapel of the cathedral was dedicated to Don Francisco Gomez de Arellano, a most
generous donor of the cathedral. For his kind and magnanimous deed, Don Francisco was assigned, upon his
death, a special niche with bronze letterings and border at the capilla mayor. Francisco Gomez de Arellano had
served as cura en propiedad in Villa de Arevalo in Panay. He was also capellon mayor and rector of the Royal
College of Santa Potenciana in 1598, a canon of the church, and the chaplain for the Hospital Real de los
Españoles.
Captain Juan Sarmiento and his wife Isabel de Paredes of Manila founded a chapel and masses amounting to
200 pesos every year. Captain Antonio de Espinosa and his wife Maria de Acriaza, descendants of one of the
oldest families of Manila,founded a chapel under the patronage of San Bartolome and a chaplaincy of 180 pesos.
The beautiful Capilla del Sagrario, or Sanctuary Chapel, was founded by Captain Alonzo Tarancon with funds
coming from the property of the late Miguel Simon, a devout and pious man who was accorded the honorary title
of padre. A chaplaincy was also founded for the Curato de Españoles, curary for Spaniards, amounting to 210
pesos each year, with 140 pesos for the lamp of the Most Blessed Sacrament.
Archbishop Vasquez de Mercado founded on the left side of the capilla mayor a chapel for his sepulcher and all
the prebends who desired to be interred there. In his designated niche was a large slab measuring one vara in
height and two and a half in width, with his portrait etched in wood over the slab. He also founded a chaplaincy of
1,000 pesos every year at the disposal of the Chapter. The next chapel was founded by the accountant Alonso de
Espinosa Saravia with a chaplaincy of 150 pesos every year for the service of the Chapter. The last chapel was
founded by Don Rodrigo de la Barrera with a chaplaincy of 150 pesos every year.
The remains of the late Archbishop Benavides were interred at the Gospel side of the principal altar. Archbishop
Vasquez de Mercado, who died in an accident on June 12, 1616,was interred in the mortuary chapel he founded
in the cathedral.
R e c o n s t r u c t i o n u n d e r Ar c h b i s h o p P o b l e t e
The process of reconstruction of the whole cathedral was to start only after some years upon the arrival of Miguel
de Poblete in 1653. On July 24, 1653, the new archbishop Miguel de Poblete entered the city of Manila after
arriving in the port of Cavite from Acapulco and sadly viewed the ruins of the old cathedral and the temporary
camarin which served as the cathedral in the middle of the plaza. He had the ugly camarin removed and cathedral
services temporarily installed in the Church of the Confraternity of La Santa Mesa de Misericordia. For the next
six years, the Misericordia Church would function as the interim cathedral. Immediately, the new archbishop
planned to reconstruct the stone cathedral.
On April 20, 1654, the cornerstone of the new cathedral was laid by Archbishop Poblete with the governor general,
the Royal Audencia, the Cabildos, and the religious communities inattendance. Archbishop Poblete personally
went on foot around Manila, soliciting donations for the cathedral project.
In spite of the relative poverty of the city denizens at that time, the good archbishop was able to collect 3,000
pesos in contributions. To this initial fund, he added whatever little money he had. He even made a wooden scale
model of the proposed edifice which would have three naves and would be of the Roman Doric order.
From 1658 to 1659, work on the cathedral was hastened. At this stage, contributions began pouring in. The
Spanish monarch donated 22,000 pesos from the Royal Treasury of Mexico. Supporting the completion of the
project were the products of the vacancies of the archbishopric. When all the donations were spent, the Archbishop
sold his silverware, his pectoral cross and ring just to keep the construction going.
By 1659, the cathedral’s naves were already enclosed and the Sagrario de los Curas, the choir and the Chapter
hall were finished. At this time, Archbishop Poblete decided to hold Holy Mass in it. The Church of Misericordia,
which had served as interim cathedral, was asked to transfer all the cathedral ornaments to the new structure’s
sacristy for this event. On December 5, 1659, the archbishop consecrated the big bell and blessed the belfry of
the new Manila Cathedral.
On December 7, 1659, eve of the feast of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, the Archbishop celebrated low
Mass in the Sanctuary of the new cathedral. The following day, the feast itself, a Pontifical Sung Mass was
celebrated in the cathedral with the governor general, the Royal Audencia, the religious, and other dignitaries in
attendance. From then on, the divine functions were performed by the archbishop in the cathedral.
More support came for the cathedral, so that by 1662, religious services were held there more conveniently. That
year, the main altar of the cathedral was built out of molave, a native hardwood, whereas an artist painted and
decorated the silken cover of this altar. Contributing greatly to this cathedral building were Governor Sabiniano
Manrique de Lara and the residents of Manila .
The archbishop planned to have the cathedral formally dedicated on August 31, 1662, with much festivity, but the
several revolts in the Parian and in the provinces of Pampanga, Pangasinan, and Ilocos made it impossible.
Although only partially completed with some finishing works still to be executied, the cathedral was blessed on
June 7, 1662. The new cathedral was a beautiful structure of stone, with many altars and chapels. Someone
pictured it out in detail:
” The Cathedral was beautifully built of quarried stone, lime, and gravel. It was 40 brazas long, 15 brazas wide,
and 9 branzas high. It had three naves, one at the center and one each on both sides. Each side had seven
beautiful columns. The main portal or entrance was adorned with three doors. Each door corresponded to the
naves opening out to the plaza. At approximately the middle of the edifice were side doors each leading to the city
streets. It had two Sanctuaries – one for Spaniards and another, for natives. There were 8 windows, 4 on each
side. Chapels lined the sides with a one-braza elevation from the side streets. The woodwork was all of molave.
It had a splendid presbytery, the table of which was 5 steps elevated. The Choir was 3 steps higher than the floor
with 52 carved wooden chairs. There were two Pontifical thrones – one on each side of the choir."
Archbishop Poblete died on December 7, 1667, bequeathing his wealth for the maintenance and upkeep of the
cathedral. In his lifetime, he spent 25,000 pesos for the construction of his beloved cathedral. He also donated
ornaments, vestments, and vessels for decoration and use during divine services. He was also able to obtain
sacred relics which he donated to the cathedral church: an arm of San Marcial, an arm of San Jocundo, an arm of
one of the 1,000 virgins, and a piece of the Holy Cross of Christ. The relics were encased in special silver and
golden reliquaries.
“The Cathedral had an imposing tower with a huge bell in it. Near the tower base were located the various offices
of the Cathedral. At the top of the tower was a clock.”
He entrusted the completion of the cathedral project to his nephew and executor, Don Jose Millan de Poblete,
dean of the Cathedral Cahpter of Manila. The project continued with funds generated by the income of vacant
encomiendas and from the residents of Manila. In less than two years, the arches, entrances, and collateral naves
were finished. On August 31, 1671, the principal chapel or capilla mayor was completed and dedication rites were
celebrated on September 8, 1671, although construction was not yet fully completed. Work continued until 1681
when the sacristy and other offices of the cathedral were built.
U n d e r Ar c h b i s h o p P e d r o d e l a S a n t i s i m a T r i n i d a d
Archbishop Pedro de la Santisima Trinidad Martinez de Arisala became Manila’s vicar in 1747. He saw the
dilapidated state of the cathedral and decided to have it reconstructed by a fine architect to avoid any future defects
in the edifice every time natural disasters struck the city. The archbishop requested Nueva España to send a good
maestro who could handle the work and in 1748 informed the Spanish monarch that a new cathedral should
replace the present one.
The following year, Archbishop Trinidad asked for financial assistance enclosing the report of the Jesuit architect
Father Joaquin Mezquita, the military engineer Don Tomas de Castro y Andrade and Don Antonio Gonzalez de
Quijano. The report stated that the length of the cathedral was uproportional to its width and, thus, the structure
necessitated rebuilding according to the
norms of architecture. In response, a Royal Cedula was dispatched, ordering the Archbishop and the Royal
Audencia to submit the design for a new cathedral church and the cost estimates for the said project.
Before the Royal Cedula could reach Manila, a Florentine architect and engineer, in the person of Juan de
Uguccioni, passed by Manila during the latter end of the year 1750. A missionary of the Sagrada Congregacion
de Propaganda Fide, Fray Uguccioni was on his way to Goa, India, after serving the English in a technical capacity
in the Malvar coast.
Upon the request of Archbishop Trinidad, Uguccioni made an assessment of the cathedral which he submitted on
December 9, 1750. His findings confirmed the previous reports on the structure. Uguccioni remarked that the
rectangular structure had a height unproportional to its length…”without the least symmetry or ornamentation and,
therefore, I consider [the cathedral] wholly as rough, formless, and unproportional, to which can be added its great
darkness, one reason why a multitude of filthy animals infest it, making it uninhabitable and totally indecent.”
Uguccioni proposed for a totally new edifice but budgetary considerations forced him to just restore the old
structure with the introduction of the necessary modifications or renovations in conformity with aesthetics. The
archbishop consulted the governor general and the Cathedral Chapter on the project. Ultimately, a consensus was
reached to pursue with Uguccioni’s proposal.
T h e B r i t i s h I n va s i o n o f 1 7 6 2
The British invasion in 1762 scarcely caused any damage in the cathedral structure. However, it was deprived of
its many treasures when, under threat of death, Archbishop Rojo was forced by the British to hand over its
collection of silver and jewels valued at 31,309 pesos.
The structure, however, underwent repairs. Areas which were eaten by termites and other pests were repaired,
and the cupola of the cathedral was given a new sheathing of lead in the shape of fish scales. All these works
were supervised by Juan de Uguccioni.
Since the Manila Cathedral was reconstructed by Uguccioni and inaugurated n 1760, there had been no
significant major alterations or modifications in it, except for some minor repairs and regilding, until another major
reconstruction in the middle of the 19tj century. In 1839, repairs were made in the cathedral. Commissioned to
perform the repair works, particularly in the dome or cupola of the structure, was Don Francisco de Ojeda. Gilding
was made in many areas, in the lamps within the church, the altar major and other auxiliary altars of the cathedral.
Such repair and renovation works were supervised by the architect Don Jose Ygnacio de Barinaga. Master
carpenter for the works was Don Gaspar Pabalan and the aparejador, or foreman, was Mariano Pabalan. In
subsequent years, many repair works were made in the sacristy, roof, cupola, windows, and termite infested areas
of the structure.
A year after Grajales’ report, Governor General Antonio de Urbiztondo ordered the Cuerpo de Yngenieros or Corps
of Engineers led by its commandant and chief Don Nicolas Valdes and commandant Fernando Fernandez de
Cordoba to conduct another inspection of the cathedral since Urbiztondo had lost confidence in Grajales. Grajales
had made assurances earlier during a meeting with the Cathedral Chapter that no contingencies were needed
since the cathedral (after the 1852 earthquake) did not pose any threat to lives and property. In spite of such
assurances, on March 6, 1853, a cornice from the media naranja or dome of the cathedral fell down, destroying a
part of the cathedral roof.
The Cuerpo de Yngenieros made its own examination and came up with an “Estimate of Works” or Presupuesto
de las Obras to remedy and reconstruct the areas which suffered damages in the cathedral.
Among their proposals were to demolish the façade, which suffered cracks, to be replaced with a more appropriate,
elegant, and dignified form, to replace the dome with a new one partially due to its old decaying wooden frame, to
restructure the principal nave for better stability and raise it by one meter, to repair the different ceilings of the
interior rooms and to renovate the present ceiling of the principal nave with one more majestic with a lovely stone
simulation. The crown or roof of the bell tower was to be replaced with one mas gracioso than the earlier. Likewise,
the house or chapter hall located between the bell tower and the cathedral was to adopt a new façade, with better
circulation and means of ventilation. The estimated cost of work was 45,500 pesos.
By October 1854, bids for the project were submitted. Contractors who joined the bidding for the cathedral
renovation and reworks were Don Manuel Asuncion, Don Luciano Oliver who was a renowned architect, Don
Antonio Fua, Don Sixto Ejada Obispo, Don Esteban Transfiguracion, and Don Antonio Canals y Llinas, who was
the director and owner of the Establecimiento Artistico in Arroceros. Don Sixto Ejada Obispo, who was then the
Gobernadorcillo de Mestizos of Binondo and a practicing contractor, won the bidding with the lowest bid price of
45,300 pesos.
The project pushed through with the churches of the Archdiocese of Manila contributing half of their collected
sanctorum for the work. Funds were also subsidized by the Obras Pias and the Real Hacienda.
On April 13, 1870, Governor Carlos Maria de la Torre issued a directive giving the necessary authorization to
begin the leveling of the cathedral ruins and empowering the eccelesiastical governor, Mateo Yague y Mateos, in
the absence of Archbishop Gregorio Meliton Martinez who was attending the Concilia Vaticano in Rome, to
designate the Arquitecto de la Administracion Local, Don Luciano Oliver, to be the dor director of works for the
cathedral reconstruction. Yague was also authorized to arbitrate for the necessary funds for the project, to send
out circulars calling on those who would want to donate and to open a subscription from persons willing to support
the monthly salaries of workers to be hired in the cleaning and clearing of the ruins and in the reconstruction
phase.
On April 18, 1870, during solemn rites in the Church of Santo Domingo, an eloquent discourse on the cathedral
brought out the desired reaction from the faithful who pledged to pay for the
daily wages of the laborers employed in the reconstruction. In the morning of the following day, April 19, work on
the leveling of the ruined cathedral commenced. Present to witness the first phase of the cathedral project were
Governor de la Torre, Yague y Mateos, cathedral canons, the parish priest of San Pedro ( Makati ), Luciano Oliver,
government officials, and other guests.
For the proper disposal of the debris, Yague coordinated with the Cuerpo de Yngenieros which decided to dump
the debris in the site of the fortification called El Pastel, of Santa Lucia, and in several points of the beach within
the military zone of Manila. For such work, Yague requested for 30 carritones to be available on hand at the gates
of Santa Lucia and Postigo to carry the rubble, and another additional 20 more at a site which the governor general
pleased. Among the cathedral rubble were human remains and relics which were separated and turned over to
the Archbishop’s palace upon Oliver’s discretion. Among such relics were the mortal remains of Simon de Anda,
gallant hero during the British invasion and occupation of Manila.
The clearing of debris and rubble lasted for 56 days at a total cost of 3,000 pesos. After this, Don Luciano Oliver
presented his proposed plan for the cathedral. Oliver was chosen primarily because he was considered to be the
best architect around, with his record of twenty-two years of designing and building structures in the colony, among
which were the churches of Taal, Tayabas, Malolos, Navotas, Caloocan, and Malate, and other houses which he
built to especially withstand earthquakes.
On June 15, 1870, Governor de la Torre issued an ordinance creating the Junta Consultativa para los
Restauraciones de las Yglesias or Consultative Committee for the Restoration of Churches. Formed specifically
to restore Intramuros churches, the committee would assist in the restoration of the Manila Cathedral. The Junta
had the governor general for its president, the dean of the cathedral for vice president, and the penitenciario,
magistral, doctoral, a racionero, and a secretary as members.
The Inspection General de Obras Publicas also proposed to the governor general the creation of a facultative
commission, as ordered by the Royal Orders of August 10 and October 19, 1863, that will take charge of the
reconstruction of buildings destroyed by the earthquake. It was composed of Luciano Oliver as head with two
others as members. Its aim was to meet with the ecclesiastical governor and obtain from him the program of the
cathedral regarding the necessary requirements for the new edifice; to assess and examine the cathedral and
determine which areas needed to be demolished and preserved; and to propose the most scientific, artistic, and
economical method of construction best suitable for the reconstruction. The committee fulfilled its objectives but
Oliver was not able to make a proper project presentation for some reasons. Since the Inspeccion General de
Obras Publicas could not give its stamp of approval without any formal project proposal, it proposed on March 8,
1871, to suspend all works on the cathedral. The suspension took effect on May 26, 1871 by virtue of Royal Order
No. 396.
On July 29, 1871, Governor General Rafael Izquierdo ordered for a reassessment of the works executed in the
cathedral and to determine which could be completed, so that in a span of two months, the cathedral could be
protected from the coming rainy season, until such time the formal project proposal could be approved and
reconstruction work could commence again. However, Don Luciano Oliver could not continue to work on the
project, and on October 3, 1871, he renounced his position as director.
R e s t o r a t i o n u n d e r Ar c h b i s h o p M e l i t o n M a r t i n e z
With the arrival from Rome of Archbishop Meliton Martinez, membership of the Junta or the cathedral restoration
committee was modified by the Superior Decree of September 12, 1871. The new members would be composed
of the entire Cabildo under the presidency of the archbishop.
The Junta met to elect and assign a new architect for the project. On October 23, 1871, Don Vicente Serrano y
Salaverri was named officially as the new director of the project. On April 20, 1872, Serrano presented the memoria
y planos, proposal and plans, of the reconstruction project. In the said proposal, modifications were made in the
buttresses and framework of the roof. The same, with some modification by the Junta Consultativa de Obras
Publicas, was approved by virtue of the Royal Order of August 6, 1872.
The following were the modifications in Serrano’s proposal. Instead of the iron columns specified by Serrano,
columns of molave to be sheathed with iron would be used. The zocalos of granite stone would be replaced by
zocalos of Meycauayan stone. All other specifications made by Serrano were approved.
In May of 1873, the final plans for the project were elevated to the Minister of Overseas with favorable
recommendation from the Junta de Obras Publicas. It was approved by the Spanish Academia de Nobles artes
de San Fernando and ultimately by the Supreme Government on December 13, 1873 by virtue of the Supreme
Order No. 1686. Construction of the new cathedral commenced immediately thereafter.
C o n s t r u c t i o n u n d e r Ar c h b i s h o p P a yo
Archbishop Pedro Payo worked with so much zeal and tireless activity for the cathedral so that he was able to
obtain easily the necessary funds required to complete the structure. He even donated part of his own wealth to
several works in the Manila Cathedral among which were the construction of the main altar, the image of the
Immaculate Conception, the organ, and the reboque and painting of the bell tower.
Failing health forced Serrano to resign from his job as director of the cathedral reconstruction, so that he was
replaced on October 31, 1873 by Eduardo Lopez Navarro, who was chief engineer of roads, canals, and ports in
the colony. Serrano died a short while after Navarro replaced him. Engineer Navarro continued to direct the work
until April 10, 1878 when he had to leave for Spain to recover his health. Taking over from Navarro was Manuel
Ramirez y Bazan, who was inspector general of public works, and who was assisted by Ramon Hermosa. Navarro
and Ramirez did not change Serrano’s design. They retained the basic essence and architectural character of the
cathedral as planned and envisioned by Serrano.
The new Manila Cathedral was inaugurated during a two-day festivity with solemn rites. On December 7, 1879,
the Manila Cathedral was blessed and consecrated by Archbishop Payo. He blessed the exterior and interior of
the cathedral. Afterwards, the relics of two martyrs, San Victor and San Lorenzo, were brought to be kept in the
cathedral’s Chapel of St. Peter. Then, the first mass to be celebrated in the new cathedral was officiated by the
Bishop of Jaro. The following day, feast of the Immaculate Conception, titular patroness of the Archdiocese of
Manila, saw the formal opening of the cathedral. Much revelry and merrymaking, with fireworks and music,
accompanied the feastday and the cathedral’s inauguration, sixteen years after it was destroyed by the 1863
earthquake.
The present Manila Cathedral rose phoenix-like from the desolate ruins of the old cathedral, which was bombed
mercilessly along with the rest of the Walled City during the Battle of Liberation in 1945. Asserting back its
distinction and dignity as Manila’s premier temple and metropolitan seat of the Archdiocese, the present structure
emerged in the midst of the pathetic remnants of Intramuros, its open spaces colonized by squatters and its ancient
ruins converted into cargo warehouses.
For many years after the war, the shell of the Manila Cathedral stood before the gaze of the statue of Carlos IV in
Plaza Roma. The ruins of its famous façade remained. There was the rose window without the colored glass and
the three portals with their receding arches and the cathedral’s historical marker.
Manila’s clergy had thought of transferring the cathedral from its site in Intramuros.
In fact, Archbishop Michael J. O’Doherty and Archbishop Gabriel Reyes pondered on the idea of transferring it to
Mandaluyong. It was only through the efforts of Archbishop Rufino Santos that the cathedral was able to reign
again in its rightful seat. Fortunately, the cathedral ruins were left to stand in place, still untouched by the bulldozers
that leveled off most of the ruins of Intramuros. Santiago Picornell, a well-meaning Manila resident who thought of
the historic significance of the ruins, talked out the American officer in charge with the clearing of Intramuros from
bulldozing the few bits of history that were left of the cathedral. And from these final surviving fragments of once
a majestic edifice, famous architect Fernando Ocampo spun a resemblance of the old cathedral’s design carried
over to a new one that was to rise from the same ground, from the fresh wound of history in the heart of the Walled
City.
Ocampo, though, deliberately avoided duplicating inch by inch the previous design and instead came up with a
new and modern cathedral with an appearance similar to its predecessor but with a more functional use of space.
Ocampo’s cathedral was made more spatially and visually interesting by its striking Neo-Romanesque façade,
Byzantine motifs, bronze doors, pineapple finials, and many other artistic ornamentations. It has a particularly
eclectic character, brought about by the mixture of revival, renaissance, and modern styles with a dominantly
Marian theme as a tribute to the Immaculate Conception, the cathedral’s titular patroness.
The Manila Cathedral covers an area of almost 3,000 square meters. The present structure has a Latin-cross
plan which closely follows the distribution of spaces of the previous cathedral-aisles are separated from the nave
by arcaded colonnades, and several chapels flank the nave.
The beauty and wonder of marble as a building material stand out in the Manila Cathedral. The chapels are paved
by highly polished Carrara marble prefabricated in Italy. The main altar, which has a two-meter high statue of the
Immaculae Conception, is featured with lovely columns built out of green Carrara marble. Paving the rest of the
cathedral floor are cream slabs of marble. Marble also found its way in the altars of the side chapels where reliefs
and mosaic panels add further decorative accents. Likewise, the pulpit and the Episcopal throne are made out of
Italian marble.
Although fashioned after the previous structure, Ocampo’s cathedral is the product of his own creativity and talent,
the child of his sensitive appreciation and respect for the older cathedral structure, the design and plan of which
he adapted to the postwar period’s modernist trend in architecture. Indeed, the present Manila Cathedral is the
product of its own age and time.
The Manila Metropolitan Cathedral was solemnly consecrated on December 7, 1958 before the Feast of the
Immaculate Conception, a tribute to Our Lady under whose guidance and patronage the Cathedral of Manila was
able to reign as queen of the Walled City, refuge of Manila’s denizens, and symbolic seat of the Catholic Church
in Manila.
E u p h o r i c R e c e p t i o n t o J a i m e C a r d i n a l S i n , 3 0 t h Ar c h b i s h o p o f
Manila
The next Archbishop of Manila came from Aklan-the energetic and witty Jaime Sin of New Washington-a nephew
of the late Archbishop Gabriel Reyes. At the steps of the cathedral, where Manila’s clergy gathered to make their
first encounter with their new pastor, Archbishop Sin declared: “Today Sin is Glorified.”
Three years later, the entire Philippines rose as one to welcome the third Filipino Prince of the Church. Archbishop
Sin was the youngest Cardinal in the world, and the cathedral was again host to his reception. His youth and
energy were called upon to rehabilitate the St. Paul’s Hospital and the Cardinal Santos Memorial Hospital, which
then boasted of expert medical staff and hospital equipment second to none. The St. Joseph the Worker
Foundation, Radio Veritas, and various charitable institutions were also to receive much-needed shots in the arm.
T h e Q u a d r i c e n t e n n i a l o f t h e Ar c h d i o c e s e o f M a n i l a
With the radical overhauls and improvements undertaken in the latter part of the 1970s, the Manila Cathedral was
not caught unaware when a series of important national and international events took place in its hallowed
confines. 1979 was the Quadricentennial Year of the Archdiocese, since its creation as a diocese suffragan to
Acapulco, Mexico. Jaime Cardinal Sin made the year more memorable by convoking the Fourth Synod of Manila
in October. It was marked with grave concern for community affairs and social justice and with the regulation of
the liturgy and of the lifestyle of the clergy.
Following the Fourth Synod was the International Mission Congress presided over by Angelo Cardinal Rossi during
the opening ceremonies at the cathedral. Then, on December 7, the National Eucharistic Day was celebrated.
Finally, the International Law Association, which held its conference in Manila also in December, saw it fit to close
its deliberations with a Mass at the cathedral under the auspices of the Catholic Lawyers’ Guild.
Pope John Paul II’s Visit; Beatification of Lorenzo Ruiz
Undoubtedly, one of the most significant religious events in the Philippine ecclesiastical history was the
beatification of the first Filipino martyr Lorenzo Ruiz on the occasion of the visit of Pope John Paul II to the
Philippines in February 1981. The much-loved Pope came amidst cheers of Totus Tuus from the crowd to
celebrate his first Mass on Philippine soil at the Manila Metropolitan Cathedral. Shortly thereafter, he told
Cardinal Sin that he wanted the cathedral to be a Basilica.
As an enduring witness to the faith of millions of Filipinos and as the venue of many important religious activities
participated in by two Popes, the Manila Cathedral earned the title of Basilica of the Immaculate Conception by
virtue of a Papal bull (decree) issued by Pope John Paul II on April 27, 1981. This was a special gift from the Holy
Father to the Filipino people because it happened through his direct intercession.
The Manila Cathedral is the only church in the country to become a minor basilica through the Holy Father’s own
motion – motu propio – a personal decision that came without any prompting from any other source.
The traditional manner by which a church is elevated to the rank of a minor basilica is through a petition by the
bishop in whose diocese the church is found. The bishop, with the concurrence of the Episcopal conference of the
given country, makes a petition to the Pope through the
Sacred Congregation of Divine Worship that the central church of his diocese be elevated to the status and dignity
of a minor basilica. A bishop may undertake such a petition through a widespread consensus in the diocese and
among other bishops that the specific church plays a prominent and significant role in the religious life of the
country and that the splendor of the liturgical ceremonies performed therein is extraordinary.
Pope John Paul II first expressed his wish for the Manila Cathedral to become a basilica to Jaime L. Cardinal Sin,
Archbishop of Manila, during the Pontiff’s visit to the Philippines in February 1981, right after he celebrated Mass
on the first day. In April of the same year, the Manila Metropolitan Cathedral was declared a Minor Basilica.
As a Basilica, Manila’s premier church acquired international or superlocal character. It was granted the right to
bear the Coat of Arms of the Vatican City on its façade and the crossed keys of St. Peter on all its furniture,
liturgical vestments and linen, and to adopt its own logo or seal. The rector of the Basilica was also to wear the
particular vestments for his new position for special liturgical and official occasions. The vestments consist of a
black silk mossetta with red linings, buttonholes and buttons worn over the surplice.
Churches elevated to the rank of Minor Basilica are, in many instances, outstanding for their architectural and
artistic preeminence. In other cases, they are closely linked to major religious movements that form the Christian
moral conscience of the country’s history. In some cases, a Church is declared a basilica because of its relation
to an outstanding saint.
The rich and colorful history of the Manila Cathedral, spanning four centuries, its picturesqueness and excellent
architecture, and its role in the lives of the faithful as a venue for religious, liturgical, and cultural activities in the
Philippines , no doubt, gave the Manila Cathedral a special place in the heart of the Holy Father Pope John Paul
II. These have earned for the Manila Metropolitan Cathedral the honor and dignity of the title “Minor Basilica.”
R e nova ti ons
Further to the major structural repairs and renovations of Manila Cathedral, which were blessed in a proper
ceremonial rite during its 44th anniversary in December 2002, more construction projects have been undertaken.
These are efforts of the Rector in connection with a continuing “facelift program” for the Cathedral until it becomes
fully furbished by the time it celebrates its Golden Anniversary in 2008.
Based on the status report prepared by foreman Romeo Galido and bookkeeper Jennie Calderon, the following
works have been completed as of December 2003:
Plaza Roma
Plaza Roma was the Plaza Mayor during Spanish Intramuros. It was used as a venue
for bullfights and other public events until 1797 when Governor-General Rafael Maria
de Aguilar turned it to a garden enclose with iron fence. During the American period,
the plaza was named Plaza McKinley, in honor of a US president. When Rufino
Santos became the first Filipino cardinal, the plaza was renamed Plaza de Roma, and to
return the honor, Rome also named one of their plazas as Piazza Manila.
The plaza is a prototype of the Spanish colonial city planning. Like in most old towns in
the Philippines, where the church, the municipal hall and houses of keys officials
surround an open court, Plaza Roma is surrounded by what used to be major
government buildings.
Standing at the center of the plaza, cast in bronze, is the regal statue of King Carlos IV.
The statue was locally made at Fort Santiago’s royal foundry or the maestranza. It was
erected to honor the king for sending the first smallpox vaccine to the colony.
Ayuntamiento
East of the plaza is the ruins of the Ayuntamiento or Casas Consistoriales. During its
glory days, the Ayuntamiento was the center of political and public affairs and the core
of the city government. Housed within its walls were several offices including the
residence of the mayors, a prison, the government archives, and elaborately-furnished
function halls like the salon de baile (ballroom) and the municipal board session hall.
It was in this building where the Spanish Governor General Fermin Jaudenes and
American General Wesley Merrit signed the official change of colonial power. During
the American period, the session room was used by the First Philippine Assembly in
1907 headed by Sergio Osmena and later by the Philippine Legislature. The Supreme
Court and Bureau of Justice also held office in the Ayuntamiento until its total
destruction in 1945.
Palacio de Gobernador
In the original plan of Manila designed by Gobernador General Miguel Lopez de
Legaspi, the west side of Plaza Roma was reserved for the governor’s palace. But the
first official residence of the Spanish Governor General or the Palacio Real was located
within Fort Santiago. It was only after the 1583 fire when a royal residence arose on the
site assigned to it.
An earthquake destroyed the palace during the governorship of the tragic Alonso
Fajardo (1618-1624). Two decade later, the mansion of former member of the Real
Audencia (Supreme Court) Manuel Estacio de Venegas rose from the site of the palace.
When Venegas got involved in several controversies, the dazzling mansion he had built
was confiscated. Since then, it became Palacio de Gobernador.
For 200 years its great halls resounded with the tumult of colonial politics. It was on the
palace stair where Governor Fernanado Bustamante and his son were assassinated by a
mob incited by friars. The British invaders enthroned themselves during their two year
of empire over Manila.
The last governor to reside in the palace was General Rafael Echague. It was during his
term when the terrible Corpus Christi earthquake of 1863 levelled all Manila to the
ground. The palace was toppled. The Governor General moved to Colegio de Santa
Potenciana while repair are being made to the building. Construction was stopped when
a summer residence in San Miguel (Malacañang) was favored as the new official
residence of the Governor General. On the site now stands, in its monstrosity the
Palacio del Gobernador Condominium.
Manila Cathedral
Facing Plaza Roma is the Manila Cathedral. The present Cathedral is the sixth church to
be erected on the site. The Church of Manila was originally governed by friar orders
until 1581 when Pope Gregory XIII created the diocese of Manila elevating the church to
a cathedral under the title of the Inmaculada Concepcion de la Virgen Maria. Its first
bishop was Fray Domingo Salazar. In 1581, Salazar immediately started building a
cathedral replacing the old parish of Manila, which was completed in four years.
The important episode of the Cathedral long history is depicted in its bronze doors from
it humble beginnings as achurch made of nipa and bamboo to the destruction of the last
Cathedral brought by the Liberation of Manila in 1945. Today, the reconstructed
Manila Cathedral is celebrated for its architectural mix of Neo-Romanesque and Neo-
Byzantine –the Art of Manila Cathedral.
Formerly called Plaza Mayor, Plaza Roma was once the venue for bullfights, dances, and celebrations back in the
Spanish era. The Plaza was strategically made to be the center of the town of old Manila or the Intramuros. It is
converted into a park in 1797, and a bronze statue of King Carlos VI was erected in 1824 as a tribute for the
introduction of the smallpox cure to the Philippines. It was renamed as Plaza Mckinley in the American period as an
ode to President William Mckinley.The King Carlos statue was briefly replaced by a GomBurZa statue in the 1960s
but the original statue of King Carlos was returned in 1981 up to present.