Patternpedia THE

AN ENCYCLOPEDIA OF ALL
T H I N G S PAT T E R N D E S I G N
With descriptions and illustrative images of
over 130 pattern categories, classic motifs and
historic pattern styles.

BY BÄRBEL DRESSLER

©2022 Bear Bell Productions AB

 THE PAT T E R N P E D I A
PAT T E R N D E S I G N A - Z

Throughout history new styles have emerged, peaked and declined,

formed off-shoots and became new styles in a never ending pattern
design evolution, forming classic compositions and pattern categories.

With this encyclopedia of patterns I want to provide you with a

resource that you can use for answering questions about pattern types,
styles and motifs you may have, referencing terms you come across on
your pattern endeavours, but also to broaden your awareness and
knowledge about pattern design in general.

But most of all, I hope this guide will give you inspiration and spark new
ideas that you can use in your design process and work, when designing
new patterns and collections.

In these pages you will find definitions and descriptions, often including
a bit of history and illustrative images of classic pattern types, historical
styles and motifs in alphabetic order.

Enjoy!

/ Bärbel

All patterns, illustrations and images are by Bärbel Dressler ©2022 Bear Bell Productions AB unless stated otherwise.
A BORIGINAL patterns
Aboriginal patterns are based on art and design by the indigenous
people of Australia. Very generally described their patterns are abstract,
with symbols and motifs of specific and sacred meaning, such as places,
landmarks, natural phenomena, people and traditions that are important
for their culture and community. See also Ethnic and Folk Art.

ABSTRACT patterns
Abstract patterns include motifs and shapes that can’t be described as
any recognizable object or figure. Witchetty grubs, NT Australia. Alamy images.

ACANTHUS motif
The Acanthus leaf is a frequently used ornament in architecture, art and design and comes in many different
forms, looks and styles; leaf, tendril and scroll. The Acanthus was first used in ancient Greece as an ornamentation
of the corinthian column, but became the favorite motif of ancient Roman art and design. It’s a common motif
in many design styles following the classical era; in Byzantine, Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Damask,
Neo classicism, Arts and Crafts, Art Nouveau and Art Deco.

WANT TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE CLASSICAL

ACANTHUS MOTIF AND HOW TO DRAW IT?

In my Drawing the Acanthus class on Skillshare you will learn Click here to watch the
more about the history of this classical motif, its anatomy and how to course introduction video
draw it in various angles, turnovers and scrolls.

AFRICAN patterns
There are many different African pattern styles and pattern types, formed by cultural traditions, the local
materials and techniques for applying the motifs. For example strip weaving, stamping, painting and different
types of resist-dye. But despite the differences they also have many unifying elements, for example geometric
shapes with symbolic meaning. The motifs are often telling a story or proverbs that are unique for the people
creating them. Here are some examples of iconic African patterns and styles:

Adire eleko. Alamy images. Bogolanfini / Mud cloth. Kente cloth. Adinkra.
Image: Wikimedia commons. Image: Wikimedia commons. Image: Wikimedia commons.
ALLOVER patterns
An allover pattern has repeated motifs that are distrib-
uted in an even and somewhat dense layout where the
motifs are sometimes intertwining, as opposed to a spot
pattern where the motifs are separated and with more
spacing. An allover can have any type of repeat layout or
direction.
Allover Spot

ANCIENT EGYPTIAN style

Typical ancient Egyptian patterns were
simplified, stylized, geometric and
with a strict geometric structure often
mimicking weaves, water, feathers
and other structures found in nature.
Other typical Egyptian patterns were
overlapping circles and the ”roll-of-
rope” design. The defining ancient Stars Overlapping circles
Egyptian motifs were the Lotus,
Papyrus, Rosettes, Vandykes, zigzags,
chevrons, stars and vines.

Lotus & Rosette border Feathers Vines Roll-of-rope

ANCIENT GREEK style

The Ancient Greek design style (also known as the Classical
style together with the ancient Roman style) is characterized
by geometric and elegantly stylized motifs and patterns in flat
compositions and was highly influenced by Egyptian and
Assyrian art. Iconic ancient Greek patterns are borders of
Anthemion, Lotus, Triangles, Meanders (aka Greek key),
Running dog but also various Diaper patterns. These patterns
can be found on ancient Greek pottery, textiles, friezes, frescos
and mosaics. Diaper pattern

Anthemion & Lotus border pattern Linked Lotus

Meander Crowstep (here shown as a mosaic)

Meander Running Dog / Vitruvian scroll

ANCIENT ROMAN style
Ancient Roman design was highly influenced by ancient
Greek and Etruscan art, but is typically more detailed
and ornamental, with realistic depictions of people and
plants. Typical motifs in Roman patterning on friezes,
ceilings, frescos and mosaic floors are Rosettes, scrolled
Acanthus, the Peltae shield, roundels, hexagons and
octagons including human figures and animals
depicting mythological scenes. Classic patterns were
border patterns like Egg and Dart, Bead and Reel and
different types of Guilloches and various geometrics.
Hexagon & lozenge

Acanthus scroll Rosettes Peltae Guilloche

ANIMAL patterns
Animal patterns are patterns depicting the
patterns of animal fur or skin, like zebra
stripes, leopard fur or snake scales.

ANTHEMION motif
The Anthemion is an ancient Greek interpretation of
the Palmette from ancient Egyptian art, with leaves
radiating from a parent stem. Versions of the
Anthemion with petals curving inwards are said to
depict a stylized honeysuckle plant. See also Palmette.

ARABESQUE style
Arabesque or Islimi, is an elaborate and ornamental
pattern style deriving from - or inspired by - Islamic
art and design. It includes biomorphic motifs, scrolling,
interlacing and overlapping foliage, tendrils, stylized
plants and florals, often combined with geometric
elements. The motifs are often repeated by mirroring
or rotating to create a pattern tile.

ARGYLE pattern
An Argyle pattern has lozenge shapes in combination
with crossing dashed lines arranged in a diagonal layout.
It’s a type of tartan pattern and derives from the tartan
of Clan Campbell of Argyll in western Scotland.
Argyle patterns are often used for kilts and plaids,
knitted sweaters, vests and socks.
ARTS AND CRAFTS style
The Arts and Crafts movement and its design style emerged in England
around 1860, with William Morris as its front figure. The style became
extremely popular and spread to most of Europe and North America.
The Arts and Crafts style was influenced by a wide range of historical and
ethnic art and design from all over the world, like Islamic, Ottoman, Indian,
Japanese and other asian styles. But it was the principles of Medieval and
Gothic art and craft that formed the style the most.
Arts and Crafts patterns are typically complex and layered, with motifs
from the English nature and gardens, with trailing branches, leaves and
flowers. Within the style you find several types of pattern compositions,
like realistically growing, trailing or scrolled plants, stylized serpentine
designs, mirrored, interlocking and diaper compositions.

Trailing Scrolled Serpentine

WANT TO LEARN HOW TO CREATE

ARTS AND CRAFTS INSPIRED
PATTERNS?
Check out the TRAILING Arts and
In my Arts and Crafts patterns series of Crafts patterns course >>
courses on Skillshare you will learn more about the
style and my step-by-step process and techniques Check out the SERPENTINE Arts
for creating these intricate and layered patterns. and Crafts patterns course >>

ART DECO style

Art Deco is a fairly minimalistic design style typical of the 1920 - 1930s
and has a glamorous sentiment to it. The patterns typically include bold
motifs built of geometrical shapes and lines such as spheres, cubes,
chevrons, squares in symmetrical combinations. It can also depict stylized
flowers, leaves, waterfalls and fountains.

ART NOUVEAU style

The Art Nouveau style flourished between 1890 and
1910 and is characterized by dynamic, flowing curves,
asymmetrical and whiplash lines. The motifs were
inspired by nature, with flower stalks and buds, vine
tendrils, insects and other delicate and sinuous objects.
B ANDANNA patterns
Refers to a placement print
with a border commonly used for
BASKETWEAVE patterns
A basket weave pattern is an allover
composition with bands seemingly
BATIK patterns
Batik is originally a resist-dye
technique brought from Indonesia
kerchiefs and bandannas, often with crossing above and under each other to Africa and Europe by the Dutch
a classic Paisley design. in a way that resemble a basket in early 20th century. Its blurry,
weave. mostly abstract style is created with
applying wax to shield the fabric
from the dye and sometimes also
breaking the wax to create charac-
teristic cracks. Batik colors often
include indigo, dark brown and
white. Examples of Batik styles are
the African Ankara and the Shibori
from Japan.

BEAD AND REEL patterns

Bead and reel patterns were commonly used in ancient Rome and Greece
and are designs with motifs of alternating oval or round shapes (beads) and
elongated or cylindrical shapes (reels).

BLENDER patterns
A blender is what we call a pattern in a collection that’s
often smaller in scale and simple in design. Its purpose
is to add balance to the collection and tie the different
patterns together as well as providing some breathing
space between more complex and busy designs.
A blender can for example be a stripe, polka dot, mini
check or foulard. See also Hero and Coordinating
patterns.
BORDER patterns
A border pattern only repeats the motifs in one direction; horizontally or vertically and is used to frame or crown
other designs, for example the edges of a scarf or bandanna, for wall decor and rugs. There are many classical
border patterns; like the Meander, Crow step, Running dog, Egg and Dart, Leaf and Dart, Bead and Reel,
Anthemion and Lotus, but als Paisley. See also the Ancient Egyptian, Greek and Roman and Paisley styles.

Meander border pattern Paisley border pattern

BOTANICAL patterns
Botanical patterns have motifs showing herbs, garden
plants and other botanical objects, depicted in a more or
less realistic way, often as a full plant study inspired by
scientific botanical illustrations.
BOTEH motif
The Boteh originated in ancient Persia and consist of a spray
of floral elements in a drop-shaped motif, with a tilting top.
It became a popular motif in the Mughal empire where it
developed into a full plant, root and all, partly inspired by
European botanical illustrations. Later it evolved into the
droplet motif that we today know as the Paisley in western
design.

BRICK repeat
A type of layout where the repeated
motifs are arranged in rows and
where every second row is shifted
half a distance horizontally.

BOUQUET patterns
Bouquet patterns have floral motifs arranged
in groups resembling composed bouquets of
C AMOUFLAGE patterns
An abstract, allover pattern of irregular shapes and
designed to imitate and blend in with specific surroundings,
varying flowers and leaves, either as seen from originally created for army and military use.
above, without visible stalks, or as seen from
the sides, with bound or gathered stalks.
See also Sprig and Spray.

CENTRAL AMERICAN patterns

The seeds to today’s Central American patterns developed already
around 1200 BC with the Olmec civilization in today’s south Mexico
and are typically characterized by geometric shapes and geometrically
stylized figures. Examples of Mesoamerican pattern styles are Aztec,
Mayan, Molas and Serapes.

CELTIC KNOT motif

A Celtic knot is a motif depicting in-
tricatly interwoven ribbons, strings or
rope and that is excessively used in the
Celtic style of Insular art.
It’s often a so called everlasting knot,
seemingly with no beginning or end. A
simple version is called the “triquetra”
(image). Mola tunic. Wikimedia commons. Serape blanket. Wikimedia commons.
CHINOISERIE style and patterns
A Chinoiserie style pattern is what we call any
type of western interpretation of Asian art
design, but most of all Chinese design.
There are several Chinoiserie pattern types;
geometric, floral allovers, landscapes and
murals with slender blossoming trees, birds,
butterflies and sometimes people and animals.
Allover floral style

Chinoiserie Toile de Jouy textile. Alamy images. Geometric/Fret style Handpainted wallpaper. Alamy images.

CHEVRON motif and patterns

A chevron is a v-shaped motif that is one of the oldest symbols in human history.
It appears on ancient pottery and rock-art from as early as 8000 years ago and in
many different cultures around the world. Throughout history it is also commonly
found in heraldry, rank insignia and flags. See also Zigzag.

CIRCLE patterns
Overlapping circles is a classic pattern type that can
be found in many different styles around the world,
with one of the earliest examples in ancient Egypt.
The composition is made with circles that are
overlapping in a symmetrical, diagonal structure.

CONTEMPORARY patterns
Contemporary patterns have motifs that are depicting or
representing current subjects, themes, objects, concepts
or events. For example, instead of creating a traditional
Toile de Jouy pattern with motifs based on rococo art
or depicting 18th century people and events, you can
create motifs showing modern environments, buildings,
people and items.

CONVERSATIONAL patterns
Conversational patterns are composed of motifs that are
recognizable objects, items; people, animals, vehicles, buildings
and places. They are often meant to be fun, light-hearted and
based on a specific theme. They can be narrative too and tell a
little story. Conversational patterns are used for many types of
purposes and products, for example kitchen textiles, quilting
fabric and clothes.
COORDINATING patterns CORAL patterns
A coordinating pattern complements and supports the Coral patterns have motifs that resemble corals or coral
hero pattern, is generally smaller in scale and has less growth. Coral patterns were often used as a textured
complexity compared to the hero patterns. background layer in 18th and 19th century Chintzes
and other printed cotton designs.

D AMASK style and patterns

A Damask pattern is an ornamental pattern style
with reflected motifs in a diagonal layout. It can have
different levels of complexity with a sparse layout of one
motif or dense with up to four intertwining motifs.
The name Damask comes from the Damask fabric that
was produced in Damascus, using a weaving technique
with origins in ancient China and Middle East.

WANT TO LEARN HOW TO CREATE

DAMASK PATTERNS TOO?

In my Damask class on Skillshare you will learn

more about the history of this historic pattern
and how to create 3 different Damask pattern
variations.
Click here to watch the
course introduction video

DIAGONAL repeat DIAMOND motifs and patterns

A type of layout where the repeated Refers to both a pattern type made with angled squares but can also
motifs are arranged in a diagonal, refer to patterns with Lozenge shapes.
or diamond structure.
 DIAPER patterns
A Diaper pattern is an ancient type of pattern that means that the motifs
are arranged in a diagonal layout. The name Diaper comes from the Greek
word Diasporo which is what this type of patterns were called in ancient
Greece and the Roman and Byzantium empire. Classical Diaper patterns
always had a white or bright background and motifs arranged in a diagonal
grid, but today it can mean any type of diagonally structured pattern.

DIRECTIONAL patterns
A directional pattern is a pattern that is supposed to be viewed
from one or two directions in order for the motifs to look correct
and make sense. The opposite is called non-directional, or tossed
and this type of patterns can be viewed from any direction.
Trailing Floral and figurative patterns are often one-directional
patterns.

DITSY patterns
Ditsy patterns have motifs that can be cute, eccentric,
whimsical and even silly. Motifs are usually flowers,
circles, zig-zags, doodles and other simple elements.
It’s a small scaled pattern where the motifs are arranged
in an allover and scattered layout and at a distant it
almost looks like a solid color. The floral patterns of
Liberty London are often referred to as ditsy patterns.

DOCUMENTARY patterns
A documentary pattern is a pattern that is based on historical findings, like fragments of fabric, wallpaper, murals
or old design sketches and are then reproduced, often using a different or modern technology.

DOT patterns DOTTED SWISS style

Any type of pattern where the motifs consist of or are A Dotted Swiss pattern is a version of a Polka dot where
composed of dots. For example Polka dot, Dotted swiss the dots have a drop shadow that creates an elevated
and Picotage patterns. 3D-effect.

E GG AND DART patterns

Egg and Dart refers to a classic border pattern originating in ancient Greece and often used in architecture,
on friezes and frames. This border pattern style is composed by an oval shape, altered with a pointy, arrow-like
motif element.
EIGHT POINTED STAR motif
A stylized sun-motif found in different
cultures and styles around the world,
for example in Inca and ancient Greek
patterns. It’s also a common motif in
quilting patterns.

ETHNIC patterns
Patterns inspired by art created by people of a specific nationality, region or
culture. Examples of Ethnic pattern styles are Aboriginal patterns, Native
American and patterns by people from the Pacific South islands. If you want
to create an ethnic inspired pattern it’s important that you don’t try to copy
or mimic the work of an indigenous people, to avoid and prevent harmful
cultural appropriation. Instead find inspiration from many different sources
to reference and create your own mix and original work.

EVERLASTING KNOT motif

An everlasting knot is a motif depicting a ribbon or rope
in a seamless knot (and sometimes as a weave) with no
beginning or end. It can be found in various styles and
eras, for example as the Celtic Knot and the Solomon’s
knot in ancient Greek and Roman mosaics. It’s also an
important symbol in Hinduism and Buddhism and a
common motif in Chinese ornamentation.

F AN motif and patterns

Refers to a fan shaped motif
that can for example be used to
FESTOON motif
A festoon is a garland hanging from two points - in architecture typically a
carved ornament depicting a conventional arrangement of flowers, foliage
create tesselating patterns with fans or fruit, bound together and suspended by ribbons. The motif is sometimes
in different directions. known as a Swag when depicted as a draped fabric.

FIGURATIVE patterns
Figurative patterns are a type of conversational or
narrative patterns that include people or animals. Toile
de Jouy patterns, with bucolic scenes with courting cou-
ples and people working or playing in the countryside
are examples of figurative patterns.
FLAME STITCH style
Flame stitch is originally a type of embroidery technique
and style that is thought to have first developed in Italy
in the 1500s.
The stitches create a characteristic chevron pattern in a
wave-like composition, with layers of multiple zig-zags
in different colors, arranged in way that it creates a
gradient effect resembling flames.

FLEUR DE LIS motif and patterns

The Fleur de Lis is an ancient motif depicting a stylized
lily flower with three petals, with obvious influences
from the ancient Anthemion and Lotus motifs.
The Fleur de Lis motif was first documented in art from
the first centuries BC. Since the Middle Ages the Fleur
de Lis has been used in many different contexts,
especially in the Catholic world as a symbol for saints
and purity, but also by royals and in heraldry.

FLORAL patterns
The term Floral patterns refers to any pattern that uses
flowers, buds, seed pods, leaves and other plant elements,
even marine plants. Floral motifs are the most common
and popular motif types used in surface pattern design.
There are several sub-categories of floral patterns
depending on their type of composition, for example
trailing/continual florals, bouquet florals, Sprig and
Spray florals (see also).

FOLIAGE patterns
Foliage patterns have compositions of motifs consisting
of branches, twigs and leaves. The foliage motifs can
make up the whole pattern or in combination with
others, like flowers, birds, trellises, trees and so on.

Pattern by Evolution member Supraja, AditiYeva Studio

FOLK ART patterns @aditiyeva_surface_designer
Folk art is a concept founded in the 19th century when art
historians wanted to distinguish paintings and objects made
by rural people from what was considered the fine arts.
Original folk art is based on and created for specific
traditional occasions, like seasonal festivities and holidays
and typically include local flowers, leaves, items and figures,
often in mirrored and one-directional compositions. Folk
art is often used for decorating homes, every-day items and
tools, furnishing and clothing.
FOULARD patterns
A Foulard is originally a type of soft and light silk fabric used for
scarves and men’s garments like robes and ties. As they where
often printed with a small scale pattern of Rosettes, Paisley,
Quatrefoils and geometric shapes in rich, masculine colors
typically set in either a straight or diagonal repeat layout, the
name became assocated with this type of pattern style.

FRET patterns
Are ancient and made of bands and other
shapes with right angles. They are often border
patterns and can be found in many different
styles all over the world, for example in ancient
Greek, Aztec and Chinese patterns.

G EOMETRIC patterns
A geometric pattern is a pattern
that is using motifs of geometric
shapes, like stripes, circles, dots,
ellipses, triangles, rectangles,
squares and different types of
polygons like hexagons, rhombuses
and octagons.

GINGHAM style
The Gingham pattern came to Europe from Malaysia in the 17th century
and was originally a stripe pattern. When the Europeans and Americans
started their own Gingham manufacturing, they added their own touch and
design to it and it’s thought that it was the mills in Manchester, England
that first made a checked version in the 18th century.
A Gingham is typically a small to medium scaled pattern, made up with
crossing stripes, usually in a bright color on white background. Where the
stripes cross, they create a darker shade (called fall-on), which is the
number one characteristic of a Gingham pattern. Gingham pattens are
traditionally red and white or blue and white and often used for table cloths,
aprons, curtains and baby bedding.

GREEK KEY see Meander.

H ERO patterns
Also known as focal-, or statement pattern is the main
pattern in a pattern collection. It’s typically complex in
HALF-DROP repeat
A type of layout where the repeat is stacked in
colums and where every second column then is
composition, detail and color and often in a large scale. shifted half a repeat distance vertically.

HARLEQUIN patterns
A Harlequin pattern is made with diamond shaped motifs
arranged in a diagonal grid. The diamonds typically have
multiple colors and dark or white outlines. The name
Harlequin comes from a character in Commedia dell’arte,
which was a 16th century Italian theater movement. The
Harlequin characters were witty, mischievous clowns who
wore costumes sewn together from fabric scraps and over
time it evolved into a diamond pattern called Harlequin.

HERATI style
The Herati pattern style has origins in ancient Persia and the city of
Herat in today’s Afghanistan and is commonly used on rugs and tapestries.
It’s characterized by a flower inside a diamond shape, surrounded by four
Acanthus leaves, that look a bit like fish and some believe the design meant
to symbolize the Persian myth that the world was supported by four
swimming fish, which is why this pattern is sometimes called Mahi,
meaning fish design.
HERRINGBONE patterns
A Herringbone pattern is a type of chevron pattern, but
where the v-shapes are created by blocks arranged and
repeated in a layout that resembles the bones of a fish.
The blocks can be rectangles or so called parallelograms.
Herringbone patterns are often used for wallpaper,
coats and jackets, but are also common for tiling and
parquet floors.

HOUNDSTOOTH patterns
A Houndstooth pattern is a classic pattern characterized by a
four-pointed shape that is said to resemble a dog tooth.
It’s considered a type of check pattern and is traditionally done in
black and white.
The first to wear houndstooth clothes are said to be shepherds in
the Scottish Highlands, who appreciated how the speckled design
would hide spots and stains.
I KAT style
Ikat is originally a resist-tie-dye technique where the
threads are tied to protect parts of them from the dye,
which cretes colored sections of the yarn that creates
a geometric pattern when woven into the fabric, which
creates the typical blurred shapes that have become a
characteristic of the style. Ikat patterns are often used
for home textiles like upholstery, cushions and pillows,
but was also commonly used for 18th century dress.

Inca tunic. Image: The Met Museum.

INCA style
The patterns of the Inca Empire are characterized by a
checkerboard composition in alternating and contrasting
colors, where the squares includes geometric and stylized
figures and shapes with a symbolic meaning. Typical
motifs were checkerboard, frets, stepped pyramids,
eight-pointed-stars and geometrically stylized animals
like fish, llamas and condors.

INDIAN FLORAL style

Indian Floral is a pattern style of trailing branches, stylized and imaginary
flowers, leaves, fruits and insects deriving from India and often printed on
cotton fabric. The pattern evolved from the traditional motif called Tree of
life, a symbol for the different stages of life. The style came to Europe during
the last part of the 17th century, through the import of printed cotton and
became very popular and even revolutionized fashion among all social
classes. Here the style evolved to a more delicate version using the European
flora. Other commonly used terms for this style are Indienne or Chintz.

WANT TO LEARN HOW TO DESIGN YOUR OWN

INDIAN FLORAL INSPIRED PATTERNS?

In my Indian Floral class on Skillshare you will learn more about Click here to watch the
the history of this classical style, how to draw its characteristic course introduction video
motifs and compose them into flowing, decorative patterns.
INSULAR style
Insular patterns are characterized by intricate interlacing bands that are
looped, braided and knotted in complex geometric patterns. The style
developed in Ireland and the British islands, which is how this style got its
name (Insular = island) during the 4th century, probably with influence
from mediterranean and Norse/Viking art from the same era. Insular motifs
and patterns were used by monks for decorating illuminated manuscripts,
metalwork and stone carvings, especially stone crosses. See also Interlacing
patterns below and Celtic- and Everlasting knot.

INTERLACING patterns
Interlacing is a decorative style found in medieval art and design,
characterized by intricate bands that are looped, braided and knotted
in complex geometric patterns in a flat composition. Interlacing motifs
and patterns can be found in many places and cultures during the early
Middle Ages, for example in Islamic and Norse/Viking art, but specifically
The book of Durrow.
Image: Wikimedia commons.

INTERLOCKING patterns IRREGULAR repeat

Interlocking patterns have motifs that are linked with each other A type of layout that resembles the half drop,
so that one object or shape can’t be moved without affecting the brick and diagonal repeat layouts, but where
others. Examples of styles that are using interlocking motifs and the shift vertically or horizontally is only a
patterns are Damasks, Arts and Crafts and Arabesque. fraction and not half the repeat distance.

ISLAMIC patterns
Islamic patterns are a category of symmetric
patterns with geometric shapes that are
repeated in a way to create an infinite
impression. They are also tightly connected
to the Islamic history, culture, art and
architecture. See also Arabesque.
Wooden ceiling. Image: The Met museum.

ITCHIMATSU patterns
Is essentially the same as a checkerboard pattern but where one
color is slightly overlapping in the corners creating a smaller
check inside. It can also have other designs inside the checks.
This is a very popular Japanese pattern used for Kimonos. The
actor Sanokawa Ichimatsu used this design for his Hakama on
stage, which is how this specific check pattern style got its name.
IZNIK style
Iznik artwork and patterns are found on ceramics like
tiles and pottery from the last part of the 15th century
J ACOBEAN style
Refers to an embroidery style during the reign of
King James I of England in the last part of the 17th
in modern day Turkey. The Iznik style is characterized century. The style was highly influenced by the patterns
by stylized flowers and leaves in red, green and blue on and motifs that could be found on the printed cottons
an off white or blue ground, often in a symmetrical imported from India, with flowers, plants and animals.
layout. The style has visible influences from Ottoman, A popular motif was the Tree of Life.
Arabesque, Chinese, Indian and Mughal floral art and See also Indian Floral.
design. Typical motifs are Tulips, Carnations and
Acanthus-like leaves.

Iznik tiles. Image: The Met museum.

K ILIM style
Kilim is originally a tapestry-woven rug or textile
with origins in Turkey and its neighboring regions. Its
characteristic designs of diagonally aligned geometric
shapes and stylized almost abstract figures in rich,
brilliant colors, have also become synonymous with this
type of pattern style. Similar weaving techniques and
patterns are also made by the indigenous peoples of
North, Central and South America.

L ANDSCAPE patterns
A landscape pattern is a pictorial pattern depicting trees, forests,
orchards, parks, fields, mountains, hills and other elements seen in nature.
LATTICEWORK patterns
Latticework patterns refers to
patterns with criss-crossing or
An important characteristic is a pictorial and zoomed out perspective as interlaced stripes or lines that
opposed to more up-close views of foliage or botanical motifs and patterns. creates a grid-like look.
A landscape pattern can include houses, fences and other man made See also Basket weave and Trellis.
elements as well, but is dominated by nature motifs.
LEAF AND DART patterns
Also known as the Rais de ceur. A classical border pattern originating in ancient Greece, often used in architecture,
on friezes and borders. It consistas of a heart shaped leaf alternated with a pointy arrow, representing a spear.

LIBERTY FLORAL style

Liberty refers to the historical UK based department store
Liberty London which was founded in 1875. Liberty is famous for
their fabrics with patterns influenced by oriental and Asian styles
and are tightly connected with the Arts and Crafts and Aesthetic
movements, as well as Paisley and Art Nouveau. Liberty is also
know for their Tana Lawn fabrics with characteristic small scaled,
allover and ditsy floral patterns.

LOTUS motif and patterns

The Lotus is an ancient motif found in many different cultures
and art styles around the world, for example ancient Egyptian,
Assyrian, Greek and Roman and Chinese design. It generally
symbolizes life, regeneration, rebirth, purity and enlightenment.

LOZENGE motif and patterns

A lozenge is an asymmetric diamond shape, that is taller than
it’s wide, or vice versa and is a common geometric shape in
historic patterns, for example ancient Greek and Roman mosaics,
Harlequin and Argyle.

M ADRAS CHECK patterns

A Madras check pattern has Indian origins and
despite its name it’s a plaid design with bands, squares
MARINE patterns
Marine is a pattern type or theme including motifs
depicting objects related to anything sea-related, such
and rectangles in bright colors that have a faded or as sea animals, plants, vehicles, buildings, clothing,
washed out look. professions etc.

MEANDER patterns
Also Greek Key, is an ancient Greek border pattern
consisting of meandering continuous straight lines and
right angles resembling a labyrinth.
MEDALLION motif and patterns MOSAIC patterns
A medallion is a symmetrical motif where A Mosaic pattern is a pattern that consists of small geometric and
motif elements have been rotated and/or colored shapes resembling mosaic stones or glass, with geometric
mirrored to create a composed medallion-like shapes, objects or figurative motifs. Examples of mosaic design are
motif. Example where a medallion motif is stained glass windows, products from Tiffany, or ancient Roman
used is in Damask and Roundel patterns. floors and wall decorations.

MILLEFLEURS style MID CENTURY MODERN style

Millefleur means ”thousand flowers” in The mid century modern style was a second wave of modernism in
French and refers to a background design art and design, flourishing in Europe and the US from after WW2
filled with small flowers plants that was to around 1970. The style is characterized by organic, hand drawn
popular for tapestries in Europe during the geometric shapes and motifs, flowers and plants in graphics or
late Middle Ages and the early Renaissance. abstracted forms accompanied with accent linework. The style was
The style has inspired many following styles also influenced by Scandinavian design and Folk art. Influential
and designers, like Josef Frank, Arts and mid century modern designers were for example Lucienne Day,
Crafts and modern ditsy & whimsical florals. Stig Lindberg and Marimekko.

“Calyx” by Lucienne Day. Image: Wikimedia commons.

N AUTICAL patterns
A nautical pattern is a pattern including motifs
depicting all kinds of objects of a nautical theme, such
NON-DIRECTIONAL patterns
A non-directional pattern is a pattern with motifs that
can be viewed from any direction. An example of non-
as sailing, navigation, boats, flags, ropes and knots. directional is a pattern where the motifs are arranged in
a tossed or scattered layout.
O GEE motif and patterns
An Ogee originally refers to an S-shaped or curved
line or profile where the ends point in opposite directions.
When mirrored it creates an onion-like shape that is also
called an ogee and can be used for creating a classic Ogee
pattern and that have been used in many different Asian
and Western styles, from Ottoman textiles to Moroccan
tiles.

A version of the Ogee is a so called broken Ogee, where

the S-curve is broken up in two parts, separated by a
short straight line.

P AISLEY style
An ancient pattern style with Persian origins, and
characterized by a teardrop shaped motif decorated with
stylized organic shapes and objects like flowers, buds and
leaves, in combination with more abstract geometrical
shapes. Paisley patterns became popular in the early
1800 Europe with cashmere shawls and domestic
manufacturing was quickly established, with a center in
the Scottish town Paisley, which coined its western name.
Paisley patterns can have varying compositions; from
simple, small scaled foulards, to complex allover patterns
with intertwining, layered and mirrored motifs.

LEARN TO CREATE PAISLEY PATTERNS

In my Paisley class on Skillshare you’ll learn about the history Watch the course
behind the style and how to create 3 different types of Paisley patterns. introduction video >>

PALMETTE motif PAPYRUS motif

A motif originating in The Papyrus is an ancient
ancient Egyptian art and motif originating in
then spread to Assyrian, Egyptian art and design,
ancient Greek and Roman where it symbolized the
art and design. The motif sun and its role as creator.
is symmetrically composed The Papyrus was frequently
of leaves radiating from a featured as ornamentation
parent stem. in architecture and wall
See also Anthemion. paintings.
PELTAE motif and patterns
The Peltae is a type of fan shaped
motif with origins in ancient Greece
where it represented a shield, which
also gave it a protective symbolism.
The peltae motif was a common motif
used in ancient Greek and Roman
mosaics where it could have varying
styles and details.

PETÍTE patterns
A petíte pattern is basically a pattern with
small motifs arranged in a composition with
lots of negative space. This concept is often
used for simpler, small scaled patterns used
for home decor and apparel. In a fabric
pattern collection it could be categorized as
a blender pattern.

PICOTAGE style PLACEMENT PRINT

Picotage is a technique for printing small dots on A placement print is a composition of motifs that are
textiles and wallpaper, giving them a rasterized arranged in a way that they can be repeated and applied
shading or highlight effect. Picotage was often used as to a surface or product as a stand-alone design. For
background patterns or filler motifs in 18th and 19th example on a t-shirt, a pillow, mug or notebook.
century wallpaper and textile patterns.

PLAID patterns
A plaid pattern has crossing bands
and stripes of different width that
create squares and rectangles.
Where the stripes overlap they can
create a third or stronger color.
It’s often used for clothes like
shirts, pajamas, coats and scarves,
but also home textiles like
blankets, pillows and bedding.
See also Tattersall and Tartans.
POLKA DOT patterns
A Polka dot is a classic pattern that consists of an array of fairly
large, equally sized and evenly distributed filled circles. It’s
traditionally made with the dots in a bright cheerful color on a
white or off-white background - or reverse. The name “polka”
comes from the Czech word pulka which means ”little step” and
refers to the polka dance that became extremely popular in Europe
and America during the 19th century.

Q UATREFOIL motif and patterns

A quatrefoil is a geometric motif depicting a stylized flower
with four petals, or a leaf with four lobes. The quatrefoil shape
is ancient and can be found both in the Mayan culture as well as
early Christian churches. A version of the quatrefoil is the barbed
quatrefoil, which can be described as a merged quatrefoil and
square, with the square’s corners in-between the petals
resembling tiny leaves. See also Trefoil.

R OSETTE motif and patterns

The Rosette is an ancient stylized flower motif, that has evolved over millennia, with different meanings and
symbolism. The very first known and documented example of a rosette motif is pre-historic, about 28.000 years old
and was found in a cro-magnon burial ground. The Rosette is always symmetrical and depicted as seen from above,
with a center and radiating petals. Versions of Rosettes can be found in almost every culture and design era, from
ancient Egyptian to Flower Power. See also Tudor Rose.

RUNNING DOG pattern

The Vitruvian scroll pattern (aka wave scroll or Vitruvian scroll) is a pattern originating in ancient Greece and
is often used as a border ornament on architecture, interior decor, like furniture and mosaics.
The pattern consists of a repeated stylized convoluted form, like the profile of a wave or scrolls, growing out from
each other in a continuous line.
ROUNDEL motif and patterns
A roundel is a type of elaborate medallion
motif with origins in the Sassanian Empire and
Byzantium between 600-1100 CE. A roundel
consists of a symmetrical circular band
encompassing circles, diamonds and rosettes.
Inside the roundel were figurative and non-
figurative elements, like horse chariots,
fabulous beasts and birds. See also Medallion. Chinese silk textile. Image: The Met Museum.

S CALE patterns
A scale (or fish scale pattern is a classic pattern
type that has been used frequently throughout
SCALLOP patterns
A scallop (or clamshell) pattern has overlapping arched
motifs, facing upwards, arranged in an allover brick
history and within different styles. It’s characteristics layout. See also Seigaiha and Scale.
are rounded or diamond motifs facing downwards and
overlapping each other as in the scales of a fish,
arranged in a brick layout. Scale patterns can be found
in ancient Egyptian design and patterns around the
world. See also Scallop patterns.

SEASONAL patterns SEIGAIHA pattern

Seasonal patterns have themes and motifs depicting A Japanese pattern style of scallop motifs composed
objects and symbols related to specific seasons and of arches alternating a color and white. Often used for
holidays of the year: Winter, Spring, Summer, Autumn, Kimono fabric and lining.
Christmas, Easter, Halloween, Thanksgiving etc.
Seasonal pattern designs are used on surfaces and
products that are easyly interchangeable and not too
expensive, for example for home decor, home textiles,
clothes, bedding, stationery, packaging and gift wrap.
SPRAY patterns SPRIG patterns STRAIGHT repeat
Floral Spray patterns have composed A (floral) sprig pattern has motifs of A straight repeat (also known as
floral motifs, with stalks and leaves small shoots and twigs/sprigs/stalks block repeat) is a type of layout
that are ”sprayed” in an even and can also be simpler arrangements where the motifs are repeated in
distribution across the repeat with of leaves and flowers, usually on a straight columns and rowns, as
about the same amount of positive bright or pastel background. There in a grid.
and negative space. The motifs are is typically more negative space than
fairly varied, elaborate, detailed and positive.
can be directional or non-directional.

STRIPE patterns
A stripe pattern is a pattern category with either
horizontal, vertical or diagonal lines or bands. There
are many different styles of striped patterns which are
characterized by the width of the stripes, how they are
arranged, directed and composed, scale and color.
Awning stripes Balanced stripes

Bayadere stripes Candy stripes Candy cane stripes Hickory stripes

Navy stripes Pinstripe Regency / Bengal stripes Roman stripes

SUZANI style
Suzani is a type of embroidered folk art textile created by ethnic groups
from Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan and other central Asian countries
and was traditionally made as part of the dowry. Suzani patterns are
characterized by stylized flowers, leaves and branches in rich colors, with
visible influences from Indian Floral, Paisley, Ottoman designs. The name
Suzane is from the Persian word Suzan, meaning needle.
Suzani textile. Image: Wikimedia commons.
T ARTAN style and patterns
A tartan pattern is a plaid pattern style of criss-
crossing bands and stripes of different sizes, originating
TATTERSALL style and patterns
A Tattersall pattern is a fairly small scaled plaid
pattern made of thin and evenly spaced lines, typically
from the woven fabrics used by in the Scottish in two alternating colors on a light background. The
Highlands and the Gaelic culture. There are many name comes from the Tattersall’s horse market, which
different Tartan patterns, traditionally each designated is a race-horse auction house. During the 18th century
and representing a Scottish clan. Tattersall’s sold horse blankets with this type of plaid
pattern. Today Tattersalls patterns are commonly used
for shirts and waistcoats.

TESSELATING patterns
A tessellating pattern is a kind of allover
mosaic pattern made with geometric shapes
or figures without overlaps or spacing.
Checks, hexagons, triangles, scales, ogees
and diamonds are examples of tesselating
patterns.

TOILE DE JOUY style and patterns

Toile de Jouy is an 18th century pattern style of
romantic and pastoral illustrated scenes, floating on a
light bacground and typically depicting the countryside,
farmers, couples courting, famous events, current
trends and exotic places. The name means ”cloth from
Jouy” which refers to the village Jouy-en-Josas just
outside of Versailles, where one of the most famous
manufacturers of printed cottons was located.
This manufacture, called Manufacture Oberkampf was
famous for its fabrics and patterns and was one of the
first to use the new technique of copper plate printing,
which was integral for the development of this classic
style.

LEARN TO CREATE TOILE DE JOUY PATTERNS

In my Toile de Jouy class on Skillshare you’ll learn all the skills

Watch the course
and steps you need to create your own Toile de Jouy patterns.
introduction video >>
TOSSED patterns
A tossed pattern has separated motifs in a scattered and
non-directional layout, as if the motifs have been tossed
and landed in a random order. This type of pattern is
often used for fabric purposes, such as quilting,
clothing and home textiles since it doesn’t create as
much spill when aligning and cutting the fabric.

TRAILING patterns TREE OF LIFE motif

A trailing pattern has floral motifs of continuing The tree of life, or the sacred tree, is a widespread
branches or stalks in a seamless composition, where known theme and myth in most religions and
the motifs seem to have no visible beginning or end, as philosophies around the world - from Aztec and Mayan
opposed to Sprig, Spray and Bouquet patterns that have art, to ancient Egypt and Assyria and art styles from all
floral motifs that are separated spot motifs. over Asia. It symbolizes the different stages of life and
the world we live in. It’s typically depicted in different
stages at the same time, with buds, blossoming flowers,
fruits and leaves. Indian Palampore. Image: The Met Museum.

TREFOIL motif TRISKELION motif TRELLIS patterns

A geometric motif depicting a A Triskelion is an ancient motif A trellis pattern is a pattern
stylized flower or leaf with three consisting of three spirals radiating featuring motifs representing a
lobes. It’s a common motif in from a center and is said to garden theme, with a lattice of
medieval design, for example in represent three bent human legs. interwoven pieces of wood or metal
Gothic church window tracery and Triskelions are found in artifacts of combined with climbing plants like
illuminated manuscripts. See also the European Neolithic, Bronze- and vines, roses and honeysuckles.
Quatrefoil. Iron Ages and especially in Celtic
and ancient Greek art.

“Trellis” by William Morris. Rawpixel

TUDOR ROSE motif and patterns
A Tudor rose is a classic and stylized motif
originating in the 15th century, depicting a
rose of typically two sets of four or five petals
and with small leaves in-between each petal.

The Tudor rose is also called the Union rose

and is the traditional floral heraldic emblem
of England and originates from the House of
Tudor.

V ANDYKE motif and patterns

A vandyke is an ancient and universal v-shaped
or triangular motif often used as a border pattern for
decorating pottery, textiles and wall decor all over the
world.

VERMICULAR motif and patterns

A vermicular pattern has organic motifs of irregular
shapes or squiggly lines resembling coral growth and is
W INDOWPANE patterns
A window pane check is a plaid pattern of vertical
and horizontal stripes crossing, arranged in a symmetric
a common background pattern and texture in 18th and way, resembling frames or windowpanes.
19th cetury textiles. See also Picotage.

U RBAN patterns
An urban pattern is a pattern with motifs depicting
houses, buildings, streets and other objects found in a
Z IGZAG patterns
A zigzag pattern is a type of stripe pattern but
where the stripes are angled into continuous v-shapes,
city, as opposed to a rural landscape pattern. as opposed to a chevron where the v-shapes are
Pattern by Evolution member Sylvia Bell, @sylvia.bell.designs separated. Examples of Zigzag patterns are the Flame
Stitch and Herringbone.
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