Department of Textile Engineering

Report On
INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP
Islam Garments Ltd.
Zarun, Konabari, Gazipur

Academic Supervisor
Dr. Abdul Baqui
Commonwealth Scholar & UNIDO Fellow
Associate Professor, Director of R&D,
Coordinator MSc Program, Department of Textile Engineering

Submitted By

NAME ID BATCH SPECIALIZED

Tasnim Tamanna 161-018-0-155 161 Apparel

Date of Submission: 1st july, 2020

1
1st July, 2020

Subject: Submission of Internship Report.

Dear Sir,
I am extremely indebted for your tremendous support and guidance throughout our long
journey in our University and internship period. Being working with you we have not only
earned valuable knowledge but also inspired by your innovativeness which helped to enrich
our experience to a greater extent. An internship report on “Islam Garments Ltd.” is
submitted to you for the partial fulfillment of Bachelor of Science in Textile Engineering
Degree.

During our internship period, I have trained from all departments of Islam Garments Ltd. But,
I made sincere efforts to study related materials, observe operations performed in Knitting,
Dyeing (fabric), Garments, Washing which are the sources of collected data to prepare the
present report on Apparel Manufacturing Engineering.

Within the time limit, I have to make this report as comprehensive as possible. But there may
be some mistakes due to various limitations. For this reason, I beg your sympathetic
consideration. Finally, I pray your blessing for our successful engineering career.

Thank you
Yours Faithfully

Tasnim Tamanna
ID: 161-018-0-155

2
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

At first gratefulness goes to Almighty to give us the strength and ability to complete the
industrial inturnship and this industrial report. This report has made us experienced and
honoured. A number of people have made significant contributions to the preparation of this
report. Their insights, advice and suggestions helped me a lot.

I would like to express my deep gratitude and indebtedness to Dr. Abdul Baqui
Commonwealth Scholar & UNIDO Fellow
Associate Professor, Director of R&D,
Coordinator MSc Program, Department of Textile Engineering

I am extremely indebted for his tremendous support and guidance throughout the project
work and writing of this report. Being working with him I have not only earned valuable
knowledge but also inspired by his innovativeness which has helped enrich our experience to
a greater extent. His ideas and way of working are truly remarkable.

I would like to thank all the management of the ISLAM Garments Ltd. (Unit-1) for giving
me the opportunity to do the industrial training successfully and also their valuable
suggestion. My deepest appreciation goes to Md. Siddiqur Rahman ( Lab Assistant
Manager ) and so on. we are extremely indebted for his tremendous support and guidance
throughout my training period.

3
 CONTENT
SL No. Lesson Page
No.
10
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 11
01 CHAPTER ONE: 12-26
PROFILE OF THE COMPANY
1.1 Section wise location 13-15
1.2 Executive Summary Of Islam Knit Design 16
LTD.
1.3 Floor Area Of The Company 17
1.4 Product Items 18
1.5 Export Countries 18
1.6 Buyers 18-19

1.7 Machineries 19-20

1.8 Workers 21
1.9 Section Wise Present Manpower 21
1.10 Drinking Water Closet/Filter 22
1.11 First Aider/First Aid Box/Doctor/Nurse 23
1.11.1 Internal Trained Fire Fighter 23
1.11.2 Fire Equipment 24-26
02 CHAPTER TWO: 27-43
Knitting
2.1 definition 27
2.2 Types Of Knitting 27
2.3 Machine Layout 28
2.4 Process Requirements 28-33
2.5 Knitting Cam Arrangement 34-40

4
 2.6 Knitting Production Process 40-41
2.7 Production Calculation 42

2.8 Some Sample Of Fabrics 42-43

SL No. Lesson Page

No.
03 CHAPTER THREE: 44-46
Yarn Dyeing

3.1 Definition 44
3.2 Process Sequence Of 100% Cotton Yarn 45-46
04 CHAPTER FOUR: 47-63
Knit Dyeing

4.1 Definition 47
4.2 Batch Preparation 47
4.3 Objective Of Batching 47
4.4 Dyeing Machines Layout 48
4.5 Dyeing Machineries 48-50
4.6 List Of The Machinery 50-52
4.7 Recipe 53-57
4.8 Description Of The Main Part 58-59
4.9 Operation Procedure 60
4.10 Finishing 61
4.11 Flow Chart Of Finishing Section 61
4.11.1 Finishing Machine Setup 62-63
CHAPTER FIVE:
05 Laboratory 64-68

5.1 Definition 64
5.2 List of Laboratory Instruments 64
5.3 Laboratory Equipments 64

5
 5.4 Chemicals and Auxiliaries are used in 64
Laboratory
5.5 Specification of Lab Dip Machineries 65
5.6 Selection Of Stock Solution For Laboratory 66
Recipe
5.7 Ratio Between Salt And Soda According To 66-67
Shade Percentage
5.8 Order Flow Chart Of Lab Dip 67
5.9 Lab Dip Making Procedure 68
5.10 Flow Chart Of Lab Dip Submission 68

SL No. Lesson Page

No.
06 CHAPTER SIX: 69-71
Quality Testing

6.1 Types Of Fabric Defect 69

6.2 4 Point Inspection System 69
6.3 Fabric Inspection Machine 70-71
6.4 Quality Of Trimmings 71
07 CHAPTER SEVEN: 72-87
Garments Production

7.1 Production Sequence Of Garments 72-73

7.2 Pattern & Sample Section 73
7.3 Cutting Section 73 – 74
7.4 Layout Of cutting Section 74
7.5 Process Of Cutting Room 75
7.6 Fabrics Spreading 75

6
 7.7 Numbering 75
7.8 Machine Used In Cutting Section 76
7.9 Sewing Section 76
7.10 Layout Of Sewing Section 77
7.11 Process Flow Chart 78-79
7.11.1 Machineries 79-80
7.11.2 Defects Of Sewing Operation 80-82
7.11.3 Finishing Section 82
7.11.4 Layout Of Finishing Section 83
7.11.5 Process Flow Chart 83
7.11.6 Some Finishing Process 84-87
7.11.7 Metal Detection 87
08 CHAPTER Eight: 88-92
Garments Washing

8.1 Definition 88
8.2 Objective Of Washing 88
8.3 Types Of Garments Washing 88
8.4 General Sequence Of Wet Process 89
8.5 Different Types Of Wet Wash 89-90
8.6 Function Of Chemicals Used In Washing 90-92
SL No. Lesson Page No.
09 CHAPTER NINE: 93-97
IE DEPARTMENT
Study Of IE Department 93-96
9.1 Flow Chart Of Working Process 96
9.2 Benefit Of Work Study 97
9.3 IE Officers Responsibilities 97

7
10 CHAPTER TEN: 98-101
STORE OR INVENTORY SYSTEM
10.1 Definition 98
10.2 Fabric Stores 98
10.3 Types 98
10.4 Accessories Inventory Items 98-100
10.5 Interlining 100-101
11 CHAPTER ELEVEN: 102-104
EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT (ETP)
11.1 Effluent Treatment Plant 102
11.2 Process sequence of ETP 102-104
CONCLUSION 104-105
Limitation of this Report 105

8
 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

Islam Garments LTD is one of the leading Company in Bangladesh and is going
from strength to strength since its inception. By observing the factory existing
condition and employees behavior to one other, their fasted and quality production
and organization structure, we was led to believe that the company is very
centralized.
The factory is consisted with some well-equipped departments and these are
Knitting, Weaving, Dyeing, Washing and Garments Departments. The factory
faces good competition from their competitors which motivates them to work
harder to achieve their objectives and goals. The organization uses the multiple
departmental bases and according to the management this base is the most
appropriate.
While surveying the organization we found that the factory provides comfortable
working conditions, friendly co-workers, efficient management and status and
from the factory management part, they have made ensure the world class
accommodation, amenities, services, facilities without any doubt.

9
10
 (ISLAM KNIT DESIGNS LTD)
(Concern of ISLAM GARMENTS LTD)
(ISLAM GROUP)
(ZARUN, KONABARI, GAZIPUR)

COMPANY INFORMATION

1.1 Units name & location in this premises:

st nd rd th th
1. Islam Knit Designs Ltd. (Ground, 1 , 2 ,3 ,5 , 8 & top floor of ten storied building#
3, Ground floor of four storied building# 4and Shade # 7,11 &14)

2. Islam Garments Ltd.(Knitwear Division) (Six storied building#1,Seven storied building#5

and Shade# 1,3,6, 8,10 &17)
st nd th
3. Islam Garments Ltd.(Unit-2) (Ground, 1 & 2 ) floor of five storied building#2 and 4
th th st nd rd th
,6 &7 floor of ten storied building# 3 and 1 , 2 , 3 & 4 floor of five storied building#4
and shade #15)
11
4. Islam Garments Ltd.(Textile Division) (3rd & 4th floor of five storied building#2 and
shade#2,4,12,13 &18)
Islam Garments Ltd. (Weaving Unit) (Tin Shade # 5)
Islam Carton & Accessories Solution Ltd. (Tin Shade# 9)

Total Buildings are 5 and Shades are 18 in these premises:

Building# 1 Six storied building under Islam Garments Ltd. (Knitwear Division),(Garments)

Building# 2 Five storied building under Islam Garments Ltd. (Unit-2 &Textile Division),
(Garments)

Building# 3 Ten storied building under Islam Knit Designs Ltd. and Islam Garments Ltd.

Building#4 Five storied building (Main Store) Accessories store of Islam Knit Designs Ltd.,
Accessories Store of Islam Garments Ltd. (Unit-2) and Common Doctor’s & Daycare Centre.

Building#5 Seven storied building under Islam Garments Ltd.(Knitwear Division).(Printing

&Embroidery section)

Shade #1 Knit Dyeing old under Islam Garments Ltd.(Knitwear Division),

Shade # 2 Woven wash-1 under Islam Garments Ltd. (Textile Division),

Shade # 3 Yarn dyeing section under Islam Garments Ltd. (Knitwear Division),

Shade # 4 Woven dyeing under Islam Garments Ltd. (Textile Division),

Shade # 5 Islam Garments Ltd. (Weaving Unit),

Shade # 6 Yarn re-coning under Islam Garments Ltd.(Knitwear Division),,

Shade # 7 Knit Dyeing under Islam Knit Designs Ltd. & Woven wash-2 under Islam
Garments Ltd.(Unit-2),

Shade # 8 Old Knitting

Shade # 9 Islam Carton & Accessories Solution Ltd., (Accessories factory)

Shade # 10 Grey Fabrics Store under Islam Garments Ltd. (Knitwear Division)

Shade # 11 Yarn Store under Islam Knit Designs Ltd

Shade # 12 Generator & Boiler (Common facility)under Islam Garments Ltd. (Textile
Division)
under Islam Garments Ltd. (Knitwear Division)
Shade # 13 Chemical store (Woven dyeing) under Islam Garments Ltd.(Textile Division)

12
Shade #14 ETP (Common Facility) under Islam Garments Ltd. (Textile Division), Islam
Garments Ltd. (Knitwear Division) & Islam Knit Designs Ltd.

Shade # 15 Finished goods/Acc Store under Islam Garments Ltd. (Unit-2)

Shade # 16 Finished goods/Acc Store under Islam Garments Ltd. (Unit-2)

Shade # 17 Hanger/Carton Store under Islam Garments Ltd. (Knitwear Division)

Shade # 18 Chemical/Acc Store under Islam Garments Ltd.(Textile Division)

Section wise location of Islam Knit Designs Ltd of Ten storied building#
3:
Ground floor : Knitting Section

1st floor : Sewing section, Finishing section, Finish carton area & Time section. (One Side
Admin office & Lab)

2nd floor : Finishing section, Needle free zone, spot remove room & Inspection room, GM
office

3rd. floor : Sewing section, Accessories sub-store, Inspection room, GM office & Mechanic
room.

5th floor : Cutting section, Sample section, Pattern- CAD and Merchandising &
MD/Director’s office.

8th floor : Cutting section, Sewing section, Accessories sub-store & Mechanic room &
Time Section.

Top floor : Dining hall & Canteen.

Section wise location of Islam Knit Designs Ltd of Four storied building #
4:
Ground floor : Accessories Main store (One side)

Ground floor : Medical Center & Child Care Center (One side), Common facility.

Section wise location of Islam Knit Designs Ltd :

Shade # 7 : Knit Dyeing

Shade # 11 : Yarn Store

Shade # 14 : ETP (Common facility)

13
1.2 Islam Knit Designs Ltd
Islam Knit Designs Ltd. was established in 2005 for export of knit apparels. Islam Knit
Designs Ltd. was formed exclusively for knitted garments within house knitting, dyeing,
accessories, laboratory and effluent treatment plant covering premises area 46000 sq. meter
floor area on 10 acres land.

Head Office : 153/A Gulshan Avenue (5th floor), Gulshan North C/A, Dhaka – 1212,
Bangladesh
Tel : 880-02-9863004
Fax : 880-02-8816093

Contact Person : Shaker Ahmed / Tasin Ahmed Sina

Managing Director / CEO
Tel : 880-02-9863004
Fax : 880-02-8816093
E-mail : shaker@islam-garments.com / tasin@islam-garments.com

Owner : Eng. Md. Shafiqul Islam-17.50%, Mrs. Hasmatara Islam-30%, Md. Atiqul Islam-
17.50%, Shahrier Ahmed-17.50%, Shaker Ahmed-17.50%.

Factory Address : Zarun, Konabari, Gazipur

Tel : 880-02-9298710-14
Fax: 880-02-8816093

Contact Person : Rahima Nahar / Md. Nazrul Islam

Executive Director / Manager (Compliance & HRD)
Tel : 880-02-9298710-14
E-mail : rahima@islam-garments.com / nazrulislam@islam-garments.com

Year of establish : 2005

1.3 Floor area of Islam Knit Designs Ltd. (including Knitting &Dyeing):

Description Garments Knitting dyeing Y/Store & Total

ETP
Total floor 55,000 Sq. 17,346 Sq. 2,58,610 Sq.
area 158,264 Sq. 28,000 Sq.
Feet Feet Feet Feet Feet
Total 140,044 Sq. 25000 Sq. 50,000 Sq. 2,15,044 Sq.
production
area Feet Feet Feet Feet
Total
finishing area 36,000 Sq.
Feet
Total fabrics
store area 2210 Sq. Feet

14
Total
accessories 2117 Sq. Feet
store area
Total canteen
area 3,500 Sq. Feet

Grey fabrics
store 3,934 Sq. Feet

Yarn store
10,450 Sq.
Feet

1.4 PRODUCT ITEM: POLO SHIRTS,JACKETS,CARDIGAN,T-SHIRTS,TANK

TOP,NIGHT DRESS.
1.5 EXPORT COUNTRIES: EUROPEAN COUNTRIES, JAPAN, BRAZIL, INDIA,
CHINA.

1.6 Buyers:
Mothercare,Laradoute,Debenhams,Verbadoute,Puma,Volcom,Otto,Auchan,Nishimatsuiya,O
BS, Group Casino &Asmara etc.

C u s t o m e r C u s t o m e r Business Type Product Group % in total

C a p a c i t y

M o t h e r c a r e U K F O B K i d s 3 0 %

L a r a d o u t e F r a n c e F O B Mans, Ladies & 2 8 %

Verbadout e F r a n c e F O B K
L a d i ei s & dK i d ss 1 0 %

P u m a U S A F O B P o l o S h i r t 1 %

V o l c o m U S A F O B Men’s T-shirt 1 %

D e b e n h a m s G e r m a n y F O B Ladies & Kids 5 %

O t t o G e r m a n y F O B M a n s 6 %

15
A u c h a n F r a n c e F O B Mans &Ladies 5 %

Nishimatsuiya J a p a n F O B K i d s 5 %

O B S I t a l y F O B K i d s 5 %

Group Casino U K F O B K i d s 2 %

A s m a r a I n d o n e s i a F O B Mans T/Polo shirt 2 %

1.8 Employee (male &female) Including Knitting & Dyeing Unit :

M a l e Female Total

Gar ments Knitting Dyeing Garments Knitting Dyeing Male Female

1 1 9 1 1 9 0 2 1 8 9 7 4 5 4 1 5 9 9 9 8 3

Percentage of Male & Female : 62%& 38%:

1.9 Section wise present manpower (Garments Unit) :

G e n Merc Store Main Sam C u t Sew Qua Fini Secu T o t a l

S e c S e c S e c S e c S e c S e c S e c S e c S e c Manpower

7 3 3 5 1 8 1 6 6 9 1 3 7 1491 0 3 2 6 0 2 1 6 5

1.10 Drinking water closet/Filter:

16
G a r m e n t s K n i t t i n g D y e i n g
G. Total
s t n d r d t h t h th
1 2 3 5 8 9 S.T ot al Gr. Fl. Gr. Fl.

F l . F l . F l . F l . F l . Fl.

2 2 3 1 3 1 1 2 1 2 1 5

Require closet / filter 9

1.11 First Aider/First aid box / Doctor/Nurse (Including Knitting &Dyeing Unit):

First Aider F i r s t A i d B o x

Garments Knitting Dyeing Total Gar ments Knitting Dyeing Total

6 5 6 6 7 7 2 2 2 2 2 6

R e q u i r e f i r s t a i de r ( 2% o f t ot a l 4 7 Require first aid box 1 6

1.11.1 Internal Trained Fire Fighter (Including Knitting &Dyeing):

F i r e F i g h t e r

G a r m e n t s K n i t t i n g D y e i n g T o t a l

7 5 6 6 1 7 1 8 8 8

Require fire fighter(25% of total employee) 6 4 6

T r a i n e d b y F i r e S e r v i c e & C i v i l 3 2 0
D e f e n c e

17
18
2.1 Knitting is defined as the construction of fabric by interlocking loops of a single yarn
with the help of hooked needles. Knitting is the method of creating fabric by transforming
continuous strands of yarn into a series of interlocking loops, each raw of such loops hanging
from the one immediately preceding it.

2.2 Types of Knitting:

There are two types

a. Warp Knitting.
b. Weft Knitting.

a. Warp Knitting: In warp knitting, one or two yarn produce vertical column of loops and fabric is
produced at length way such as – Net, Mesh fabric etc

b. Weft or Circular Knitting: In weft knitting, one yarn produces a horizontal row of loops and
fabric is produced at width way such as– single jersey, rib, interlock etc

In ISLAM GARMENTS two types of machines are used for producing knitted fabrics.
These are:-

(1) Circular knitting machine (Single& Double Jersey Machine

2) Flat knitting Machine (Cuff & Collar).

(1) Circular Knitting Machine:

This section contains 36 circular knitting machines.Circular knitting machines are of
different types, made by different manufacturer and also have different specifications. In
this section
body fabric for knitted garments are produced. The different specifications of different
machines are given one after another.

19
2.3 Knitting Machine layout at Islam garments

20
2.4 Process requirements:

Machine Machine
Brand Quantity
Dia Gauge Country of
21" O r- i g i n 1 Set
22" - 1 Set
28" - 1 Set
30" - 1 Set
S/J With Spandex Attachment 32" 24/48 Pailung - 1 Set
34" - 1 Set
36" - 1 Set
38" - 1 Set
40" - 1 Set
3-Thread Fleece With Lycra
30" 20/24 Pailung - 1 Set
A t t a c h m e n t
32" - 1 Set
Rib & Interlock With Lycra 34" - 1 Set
18/20/24 Pailung
A t t a c h m e n t 38" - 1 Set
40" - 1 Set
-
R i b W i t h Lyc r a At t a chm e n t 42" 18/20/24 Pailung 1 Set
15 Sets

Single Jersey Machine:

Machine Machine Country of
P r o d u c t s T yp e Brand Feeder Quantity
Dia Gauge Origin

26",28" 24 Fukuhara Japan 84 4 Sets

96 2 Sets
3 0 24 Fukuhara Japan

S/J, LYCRA S/J, SINGLE LACOSTE, 3 0 28 Mayer&Cie Germany 96 3 Sets

DOUBLE LACOSTE, WAFFLE, PIQUE,
TWO THREAD FLEECE, THREE THREAD 3 2 24 Fukuhara Japan 104 4 Sets
F L E E C E .
3 4 24 Fukuhara Japan 108 5 Sets

21
 3 4 28 Mayer&Cie Germany 108 1 Sets

3 6 24 Fukuhara Japan 116 3 Sets

3 8 24 Fukuhara Japan 120 3 Sets

4 2 24 Fukuhara Japan 126 1 Set

Total 26 Sets

Auto Stripe Machine:

Machine Machine Country of
Products Typ e Brand Feeder Quantity
Dia Gauge Origin

2 Set
30" 2 4 Fukuhara Japan 72
Stripe S/J, PIQUE, 6-Colour
Terry fleece etc with Lycr a
2 Set
34" 2 4 Fukuhara Japan 72
6-Colour

Rib& Interlock Machine:

Products Type Machine Dia Machine Brand Country of Origin Feeder Quantity
Gauge

3 0 " 18/24 Fukuhara Japan 7 2 1 Set

RIB & INTERLOCK,LYCRA RIB
3 4 " 16/18/24 Fukuhara Japan 6 2 1 Set

3 6 " 1 6/ 1 8/ 2 4 Fukuhara Japan 6 4 2 Sets

3 8 " 16/18/24 Fukuhara Japan 6 8 1 Set

4 0 " 1 8 Fukuhara Japan 7 2 1 Set

22
 Fig: FUKAHARA Knitting Machine

(2) Flat knitting Machine:

Generally collar, cuff of knitted garments is produced in this section. In

thissectionthereare6flat knitting machines, all of the mare same type and also have same
specification. The specification of all machines is given below.

Type: Automatic Flat knitting machine

Manufacturer
Name: SHIMA SEIKI
Gauge G14
Production 4500 sets
Needle 840X2
Country Japan

Fig: Flat Knitting Machine

23
2.5 Knitting Cam Arrangement:

24
25
26
27
28
29
2.6 Knitting Production:
DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTION PROCESS:
In every mill, there maintains a sequences in production processing.
It is also followed in this mill where I was in industrial attachment. The process sequences
are in list below:
Firstly, knitting manager gets a production sheet from merchandisers as accordance as
consumer requirements. Then he informs or orders senior production officer about it.
2) Senior production officer informs technical in charge and knows about m/c in which the
production will be running.
3) Technical in charge calls for leader of mechanical fitter troops, they two take decision
about m/c for production considering m/c condition, production capacity, maintenance
complexity etc.
4) Production officer with experienced mechanical fitter adjusts required stitch length and
grey GSM (gram per square meter) for required final GSM.
5) Supervisor check daily production regularity and make operators conscious about finishing
in due time.
6) Operators operate machine in highly attention as if there were no faults in the fabrics. If he
thinks or sure about any fabric fault, then he call for mechanical fitter in duty, Mechanical
fitter then fixes it if he can or he informs technical in-charge. He then comes in spot.
7) After required production and final inspection in 4-point system, they are sent in store
section.
8) From store section, fabric sent batch section

30
2.7 PRODUCTION CALCULATION:

A. Production/shift in kg:

B. Production/shift in meter:

C. Fabric width in meter:

31
2.8 Some Sample of fabrics are as follows:

N a m e o f f a b r i c S a m p l e o f f a b r i c

S / J

L y c r a S / J

R i b 1 / 1

R i b 2 / 2

L a c o s t e / P i q u e

G r e y M é l a n g e

F l e e c e

L y c r a L a c o s t e

S l u b S / J

I n t e r l o c k

32
33
3.1 YARN DYEING: Yarn dyeing is slightly difference from fabric dyeing. Dyed yarn are
used for making stripe knit or woven fabrics or solid dyed yarn fabric or in a sweater
manufacturing.

34
3.2 PROCESS SEQUENCE OF 100% COTTON YARN:

Pretreatment

Batch loaded
↓

Demineralization (50˚C, 20 min; PH=4.5)

↓

Scouring & bleaching (100˚C×40 min.)

↓

Drain
↓

Rinse
↓

Drain
↓

Neutralization with acid (50°C ×20 min)

↓

Hot Wash with peroxide killer (60˚C,20 min.)

↓

Drain
↓

Dyeing
↓

Levelling agent & Salt (60° × 20 min; PH=6)

↓

Color dosing (60°C×20 min.)

↓

Run time = 10 min. (60°C)

↓

Color migration (80°C × 20 min.)

↓

Cooling (60°C)
↓

35
 Level Check
↓

Soda dosing (60°C×30 min.)

↓

Dyeing run (Dark-60°C×60 min; Medium-60°C×40 min;Light-60°C×

30 min)
↓

Dyeing sample check

↓

(If Ok)
↓
Drain

After-treatment

Rinse (with cold Water)

↓

Neutralization after dyeing (50°C×20 min.)

↓

Drain
↓

Soaping (Hot wash)

↓

Drain
↓

Rinse
↓

Add finishing chemical(60°C×20 min)

↓

Drain
↓

Unload

36
37
4.1 Dyeing:
Dyes are colored unsaturated organic chemical compounds capable of giving of giving color
to substrate i.e. coloring or dyeing it.

4.2 Batch Preparation:

Batch preparation can be defined as a process where the visually Inspected greige fabric are
divided into different batches. It is a part of dyeing process & it is done to feed the dyeing
machines for fabric dyeing. It is very important to make a batch with maintaining a correct
length of each nozzle.

4.3 Objective of Batching:

To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.
Turn the grey fabric if require.
To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria
Order sheet (Received from buyer).
Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark).
Machine capacity.
Machine available.
Type of fabrics (100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC).

38
4.4 Dyeing Machine layout at Islam garments :

4.5 Dyeing Machines:

The ISLAM GARMENTS LTD there are 17 dyeing machines. Among them 10 machines are
st
in the 2nd floor and 7 machines are in the 1 floor. Among second floor, 2 SLAVOCH
sample dyeing machines, 8
st
DILMENLER and among them 1 dyeing floor 4 THIES, 2 Dilmenler and 1 AYTC
production is dyeing machines. We worked on the first floor. The description and
specifications of the machine are given below-

39
Machine Type: 01

Name of the machine: Sample Dyeing Machine

Brand Name : Fong’s

Manufacturer : Fong’s National Engineering (SHENZHENE) Co.

LTD. Capacity : 25 Kg

Year of manufacturing: 2002

Hydraulics Test Pressure: 650

Winch motor – 1
Pump motor– 1
Stirring motor – None

Machine Type: 02

Name of the machine: Winch Dyeing

Machine

Brand Name : Thies (No. of machines:

4) Manufacturer : Germany.

Capacity : 150,200,400,400, Kg

Year of manufacturing: 2000

Maximum operating temp:

1400C Maximum operating

pressure: 3.5bar

Machine Type: 03

Name of the machine: H.T. Dyeing Machine

No. of machine : 10

Brand Name :

DILMENLER Manufacturer :

Turkey

Capacity : 150, 150 ,150, 350, 350, 700, 1050, 1050, 1500,

1500k Maximum operating temp : 1450c

40
Machine Type: 04

Name of the machine: ATYC Dyeing Machine

No. of machine : 01

Brand Name : ATYC

Manufacturer :

TERRASSA Capacity :

900 Kg

Year of manufacturing: 2002

Maximum operating temp :1350C

Maximum operating pressure : 3.5 bar (6 bar max.)

4.6 LIST OF THE MACHINERY:

M/C M / C B R A N D ORIGIN MANUFACTURING CAPACITY No. of Max.

NO T Y P E N A M E OF M ACHI N E Y E A R Kg Nozzle Temp

0 1 WINCH T H I E S GERMANY 2 0 0 0 1 5 0
0 1 120 0 C

0 2 WINCH T H I E S GERMANY 2 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 2 140 0 C

0 3 WINCH T H I E S GERMANY 2 0 0 0 7 2 0 0 4 140 0 C

0 4 WINCH T H I E S GERMANY 2 0 0 0 7 2 0 0 4 140 0 C

0
0 5 H.T.D.M A T Y C TERRASSA 2 0 0 2 9 0 0 0 4 135 C

0
0 6 H.T.D.M DILMENLER T U R K Y 2 0 0 3 1 5 0 0 1 135 C

0
0 7 H.T.D.M DILMENLER T U R K Y 2 0 0 3 5 5 0 0 3 135 C

0 8 H.T.D.M DILMENLER T U R K Y 2 0 0 4 1 5 0 0 1 135 0 C

41
0 9 H.T.D.M DILMENLER T U R K Y 2 0 0 4 1 5 0 0 1 135 0 C

0
1 0 H.T.D.M DILMENLER T U R K Y 2 0 0 4 3 5 0 0 3 135 C

1 1 H.T.D.M DILMENLER T U R K Y 2 0 0 4 3 5 0 0 3 135 0 C

1 2 H.T.D.M DILMENLER T U R K Y 2 0 0 4 1 0 5 0 0 6 135 0 C

1 3 H.T.D.M DILMENLER T U R K Y 2 0 0 4 1 0 5 0 0 6 135 0 C

0
1 4 H.T.D.M DILMENLER T U R K Y 2 0 0 3 1 5 0 0 1 0 135 C

0
1 5 H.T.D.M DILMENLER T U R K Y 2 0 0 3 1 5 0 0 1 0 135 C

1 6 SAMPLE F O N G SHENZHEN 2 0 0 2 2 5 0 1 140 0 C

0
1 7 SAMPLE F O N G SHENZHEN 2 0 0 2 2 5 0 1 140 C

42
4.7 Recipe No :01
S.Machine No : 02 F.Type : Fleece-300 Quality : 60kg
Batch : 70661 Liquor ratio : 1:8 Date: 18-09-17
Color : Brown Water : 600L High temperature

Time &
Programs Brand name g/l Chemical name pH Drawing
Tem.
Ablutex:1050 1% Detergent
Jintex ACN 1% Anti-creasing
980 x 60’
AZ-500 0.5% Sequestering
Sample
Scouring MAT OSR 0.5% Oil spot remover
Cooling : cutting
Stab 0.25% Stabilizer
800 x 10’
Caustic 0.5%
H2o2 2.5% Hydrogen peroxide
10.5-11
N.Hot 60 x 10’
0

Peroxide A.Acid 1% Acetic Acid

killing CAT:1000 0.4% Peroxide killer 550 x 45’
Anzyme JQ 444 0.2% Anzyme
Dye Acid Dye acid 0.5% Ph:4.5
Ablutex RTM 1% Leveling
Leveling Jintex: ACN 1% Anti-creasing 700 x10’
6-6.5
Tai-G.Yellow 0.25% 70 x 25’
0
Dyes
SPRST /kg colour
0.084 (1.50/min)
Colour dosing Tai-RED KXFT Dyes
%/kg 1350 x50’
Tai-Blue 0.217 Then
Dyes
2RHWT 8%/kg 800 cooling
Caustic 1%
Reduction Hydrose 1%

43
Recipe No : 02
W.Machine No : 05 F.Type : S/J (175) Quality : 416kg
Batch : 67976 Liquor ratio : 1:8 Date: 18-08-17
Color : Navy Water : 3328 High temperature

Time &
Programs Brand name g/l Chemical name PH Drawing
Tem.
Ablutex:1050 0.5% Detergent
Jintex ACN 1% Anti-creasing
AZ-500 0.5% Sequestering 980 x 40’
MAT OSR 0.5% Oil spot remover Sample
Scouring
Stab 0.25% Stabilizer Cooling : cutting
Caustic 2% 800 x 10’
Hydrogen
H2o2 1.5%
peroxide
10.5-11
N.Hot 600 x 10’
Peroxide A.Acid 1% Acetic Acid
killing CAT:1000 0.4% Peroxide killer 550 x 45’
Anzyme JQ 444 0.2% Anzyme 4.5-4.75
Ablutex:SEQ-7 1% Leveling
Leveling Jintex: ACN 1% Anti-creasing
AZ-500 0.5% Sequestering 6-6.5

K/V-G.Yellow
1.296%/kg Dyes
merl(5510)
P/fix-RED 3BS
Colour dosing 1.6%/kg Dyes
(1604038)
P/fix-black B
3.52%/kg Dyes
(1605002)
G.salt inject Glober salt 70%
Soda dosing Soda 18% Soda-ASH 11.5-12

Neutralization A.Acid 0.7% Acetic Acid 5.5-6.5

Soaping BCSR 1% Soaping Agent

Softness RHNB 1% Softner

44
Recipe No :03
S.Machine No : 08 F.Type : Slub/J-140 Quality : 470kg
Batch : 70237 Liquor ratio : 1:8 Date: 04-08-17
Color : Khaki Water : 4000 High temperature

Time &
Programs Brand name g/l Chemical name pH Drawing
Tem.
Ablutex:1050 1% Detergent
Jintex ACN 1% Anti-creasing
AZ-500 0.5% Sequestering 980 x 60’
MAT OSR 0.5% Oil spot remover Sample
Scouring
Stab 0.25% Stabilizer Cooling : cutting
Caustic 2% 800 x 10’
Hydrogen
H2o2 2.5%
peroxide
10.5-11
N.Hot 600 x 10’
Peroxide A.Acid 1% Acetic Acid
killing CAT:1000 0.4% Peroxide killer 550 x 45’
Anzyme JQ-444 0.2% Anzyme 4.5-4.75
Ablutex:SEQ-7 1% Leveling
Leveling Jintex: ACN 1% Anti-creasing
AZ-500 0.5% Sequestering 6-6.5

Rema-yellow 0.466%/k
Dyes
RR(51000) g
Rema-Red RR 0.088%/k
Colour dosing Dyes
(10741) g
Rema blue 0.264%/k
Dyes
RR(52714) g
G.salt inject Glober salt 30%
Soda dosing Soda 8% Soda-ASH 11.5-12

Neutralization A.Acid 0.7% Acetic Acid 5.5-6.5

Soaping BCSR 1% Soaping Agent

Softness RHNB 1% Softner

4.8 Description of the main parts:

a. Main tank:
Main tank is the largest part of the dyeing machine. It is the main dye bath which contains the
dye liquor and the fabric. The size of the tank depends on the capacity of the machine. Liquor
45
& fabric circulates in the main tank during dyeing process. There may have one or multiple
numbers of nozzles connected to the main tank according to the machine capacity.
b. Reserve tank:
This tank is mainly used for storage of hot water that is used in different stages of processing.
The temperature of water in this tank is maximum 80C. Actually this tank saves the
production time due to storage of hot water.

c. Additional/Mixing tank:
Additional tank is used for-
 Color dosing
 Soda dosing
 Salt dosing
 Chemical dosing
 Auxiliaries injection

Fig: Dosing Tank

d. Circulation pump:
It is one of the most essential parts of the dyeing machine. It is used for circulation of dye
bath liquor causing a flow from main tank to heat exchanger through filter net.
e. Nozzle:
Nozzle is the cylindrical pipeline inside the machine located at top position, through which
the fabric is moved continuously by reel. It contains the spraying portion of the circulated
liquor. The diameter of the nozzle may vary depending on the GSM of fabric.

Fig: Nozzle and Reel

f. Valve:
Valve is a small part of the dyeing machine. The closing or opening of the valve indicates the
bath fill, bath drain, and steam in, steam out, dosing and inject operation during the process.

46
g. Filter net:
During the treatment of fabric in the machine bath, lots of loose fibers are produced from the
fabric. To eliminate these loose fibers, filter net is used prior to main/circulation pump. If
these loose fibers are not eliminated, then liquor pumping may hamper and entanglement of
fabric can be occurred as well.

4.9 Operation Procedure:

-8 batches/shift to prepare

-Yarn type,quality,weight etc) for fabric &

collars/cuffs respectively
Calculate number of batches, nozzles & rolls to be prepared for each order & specify on the
batch & job card. One should be very careful while calculating & entering such data on these
cards.
Feed the fabric into the turning m/cs
Start batching operation & check the following information-

Prepare the body fabric of specified weight. This weight must be accurate & each nozzle of
same batch must weight equal to ensure even dyeing.
Calculate the number of collar/cuffs & attach the collars& cuffs with the body fabric.
Write down the weight of each roll on the back of batch card.
Check hole mark in each roll for identification.
Turn the roll (if required).
47
 Calculate the total weight very carefully & write it down in the specific area of the batch
card.

& send the batch along with the card to the dyeing section

4.10 Finishing:

The making of a marketable and consumer usable textile is not completed after fabric
production dyeing or printing operation. Fabrics usually still need to under go an additional
processing known as finishing, which is the final processing before the fabric is cut into
apparel or made into any articles of textiles. Finishing is what improves attractiveness and
makes fabrics suitable for their intended end use.

4.11 Flowchart of Finishing Section:

48
 Finishing Machine
4.11.1 Finishing Machine Setup:

S L MACHINE COUNTRY
BRAND T Y P E UNIT R E M A R K S
No. N A M E OF ORIGIN

7 chamber with the

Turkey with
7chamber with Seltex 848 plc Capacity of 7000 kg
c o n t r o l , Ge rm a n , Finished fabric&
1 S t e n t e r Dilmenler Italian&US 1 3000 kg heat set.
Bianco Digitex 6 weft
S t r a i g h t e r . P a r t s

Head,Detwister,Basket , With the capacity of 90 meter /

Bianco C o n v e y e r I t a l y 1
2 Tension B i a n c o Min that is more or less
L e s s Belt&DoublePadder
sliting

Head,Detwister,Basket from W ith th e C a p a c ity o f 9 0

3 D M S Dilmenler Turkey 1 Meter/min tha t is more or less .
Slitting Bianco,Padder from Rolling

4 Stitching T u a n a Edege Sewing from Cutter,Italy Turkey with

Italian Parts 1 42Meter/Min
Machine M a k i n a With D-Threading

400lt/hr evaporation
5 Dryer Dilmenler 2 C h a m b e r 2 p a s s Turkey 1
Relaxed Dryer for open c a p a c i t y
W i d t h f a b r i c that is 8000kg/Day

Open width Compactor Ferraro

O p e n Revolution 3000,with 9.6 Meter Pin
6 w i d t h Ferraro Frame,Low Rise Positive Feeding, I t a l y 1 1 0 0 0 0 k g
Compactor D e v i c e .

49
50
5.1 Laboratory:
In an organization, especially in a textile industry Lab is the main key point, with a higher
precision lab can aid easily to achieve the goal of the organization. Before the bulk
production a sample for the approval from industry is prepared and sent to the buyer, as per
the requirements that the buyer mentioned. The lab dip is prepared in a lab considering the
economical aspects.

5.2 List of Laboratory Instruments:

● Lab dip machine ● Electric balance

● Crock meter ● Spectrophotometer

● Light box ● Stirrer

● Dryer ● pH meter

● Electronic pipette

5.3 Laboratory Equipment’s:

● Dryer ● Iron ● Computer

● Balance ● Scissors ● Light box

● Calculator ● Stirrer ● conical flax

● Beaker ● Manual pipette ● cylindrical flax

5.4 Chemicals and Auxiliaries are used in Laboratory:

● Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) ● Acetic acid (CH3COOH)

● Sulphuric Acid (H2SO4) ● Caustic soda (NaOH)

● Detergent (Sand clean/Imerol PCLF) ● Soda Ash (Na2CO3)

● Hydrous (Na2S2O4) ● Gluber salt (Na2SO4.10H2O)

● Dispersing agent (Jinlev –RLF) ● Leveling Agent (Ionactive PP 105)

51
5.5 Specification of Lab Dip Machineries:
Table5.1: Specification of lab dip machine

Sl. Name of Brand Manufacturer Supplier Origin

No. Machine

1 LAB DIP1,3,4,5 F&P Heshan Project Manufacturer China

Capacity-24 pots Dyeing
(250ml) Equipment Ltd.

2 LAB DIP-2 Labortex Centrary Faith Manufacturer Taiwan

Capacity-24 Industrial Ltd.
pots(250ml)

3 ELECTRIC Adventurer Ahaus SMH Engg. USA

BALANCE Balance corporation &Trading
Co.
4 CROCK METER Crock James H heal & TH UK
Meter-67 Co. Corporation

5 SPECTROPHO Specta flash Data Color Data Color USA

TOMER sf-600x

6 LIGHT BOX VERIVIDE Roaches PENDORA UK

International Ltd.

7 DRYER Labtech Daiham Labtech TH Korea

Co. Corporation

8 pH METER Microproces HANNA TH Italy

sor Bench Instruments Corporation
pH meter

52
5.6 Selection of Stock Solution for Lab Recipe:

Selection of stock solution for lab recipe

Shade % Stock solution %

Above 5 % 2%

0.10%--5% 1%

Below 0.10% 0.10%

Glauber salt% 25%

Soda ash% 10%

5.7 Ratio between Salt and Soda According to Shade Percentage:

M: L = 1:10; Salt solution = 25%; Soda ash = 10%
Table 5.3: Ratio between salt and soda according to shade percentage

Shade% Salt (g/l) Soda (g/l)

0.00-0.09 10 2
0.10-0.20 15 3
0.20-0.40 20 4
0.40-0.80 25 5
0.80-1.20 30 6
1.20-1.60 40 10
1.60-2.50 50 12
2.50-3.50 60 15

3.50-4.50 70 17

4.50-5.50 78 18

5.50-10 80 20

10-16 100 25

53
5.8 Order Flow Chart of Lab Dip:

Buyer
↓

Merchandiser (Buying house)

↓
Merchandiser (Factory)
↓

Lab dip receiving (Lab)

↓

Input samples code no.

↓

Entry in lab register

5.9 Lab Dip Making Procedure:

Collect standard swatch/pantone number from buyer.
↓
Select appropriate combination of dyes and making recipe with required fabric from available
reference or data color
↓
Making stock solution as per respective dyes & chemicals
↓
Pipetting by manually or digitally from stock soln. according to dye percentage
& liquor ratio (M: L)
↓
Taking a fabric of 5gm weight
↓
Dyeing in m/c by keeping exact parameter as per percentage & dyestuff (migration &
fixation) Cooling, washing, & drying
↓
Sample matching with swatch

54
5.10 Flow Chart of Lab Dip Submission:

Lab preparation
↓
Checking light box or Spectrophotometer
↓
Lab dip submission
↓
Keep submission in register
↓
Re-submit if not pass
↓
Shade receive from buyer
↓
Transfer to dyeing floor with recipe

55
56
6.1 The types of fabric defect:
1. Oil spot.
2. Missing yarn.
3. Hole.
4. Thick yarn.
5. Slub
6. Fly yarn

6.2 4-Point inspection system:

Defects Penalty Point

1.0-3 inch 1
2.3-6 inch 2
3.6-9 inch 3
4.9 inch and above 4
5.Any hole and miss pick 4

4 point system fabric inspection:

4 Point system for fabric inspection is widely used in apparel industry for fabric quality
inspection. To use this system below things should be in concern.
 Fabric inspection method or preparation
 Criteria of giving penalty points based on defects and defect length.
 Calculation method of total penalty points for total defects found in a fabric roll.
 A check sheet or format for recording data
 Knowledge of different types of defects (how a defect looks and its appearance)

6.3 Fabric Inspection mechine:

Fig: Fabric inspection machine
57
Shrinkage & GSM Test:
Shrinkage is the process in which a fabric becomes smaller than its original size, usually
through the process of laundry. Cotton fabric suffers from two main disadvantages of
shrinking and creasing during subsequent washing. There are two types of shrinkage occurs
during washing
1) Length wise
2) Width wise

GSM Test:
GSM (Gram per square meter) or weight test is done with the GSM cutter. At first the fabric
is taken in and GSM cutter is put upon the fabric. Then the fabric is cut and the weighed. The
weighed value is multiplied by 100 to find the GSM of the fabric.
Shade Segragation (Blanket 100%):
Shade segragation is a process of combining all the shades of a lot together. For doing this
samples of 6 X 6 inch is collected from each roll of fabric and then stitched together. This is
known as Blanket. Samples are collected from 100% roll of a lot.

6.4 Quality of trimmings:

Trimmings may be of textile materials or non-textile materials. They should be selected
carefully to get desired performance. The quality of trimmings are described below-

1. Lifetime:
The life time of garments and that of the trimming should be equal .Otherwise the trimming
will be faded or spoiled by washing, pressing, ironing, rubbing.

2. Shrinkage:
The appearance of the garment may be hampered if the accessories shrink due to ironing,
washing or pressing. For example seam pucker will be result in if the sewing thread shrinks.
So the shrink ability of the dress material and the trimming should be checked earlier.

3. Color fastness:
The fastness properties of accessories should be good. The color of trimming should not be
faded due to washing or exposure to sunlight.

4. Rust:
Where items are made from metal, the main construction is the problem of rusting. The
button, clamp, rivets etc may be made up the metals like iron, brass, steel etc .If rusting
occurs they will create spot on garment. So to avoid this problem the metal trimmings should
be electroplated or they should be made up of non-rusting materials.

5. Comfortability:
Trimming should not create any uncomfortable felling to the wearer .They should be hygienic
also as to cause no skin diseases.

58
59
A garment is a piece of clothing. The area of New York City where clothes are manufactured
is known as the Garment District.

Derived from the French word for "equipment,"garment is a somewhat generic term you can
use when the specific kind of clothing you're describing is not the point. A dress, for
example, is a dress, and pants are pants. They are not the same thing, unless you refer to them
both as garments, in which case they are the same thing.

7.1 Production sequence of garments production:

Design/Sketch

Pattern design

Sample making

Production pattern

Lay planning

Fabric spreading

Cutting

Numbering

Printing

Sewing

Finishing

Final inspection

7.2 Pattern & Sample section:

PATTERN: At first pattern make with the help of buyer given order sheet. In this factory
CAD (Computer Aided Design) software used for making pattern.

SAMPLE: Different types of samples are: Fit/style sample, PP sample (Pre-production

sample), Photo sample, Final sample, Side set sample, etc.

7.3 Cutting Section:

The main role of a cutting department is to cut garment components from fabric rolls or
fabric than as per style specifications and send cut components to sewing department in
bundles. A cutting department of a garment manufacturing unit includes following sub-
processes

60
  Fabric relaxation
 Fabric spreading / layering on cutting table
 Marker making
 Cutting - manual cutting (using scissors), machine cutting, automatic cutting.
 Numbering of garment plies (parts)
 Shorting and Bundling
 Inspection of cut components
 Shorting of printed and embroidery panels
 Re-cutting of panels

7.4 Layout of cutting section:

61
7.5 Process sequence of cutting room:

Fabric Marking
↓
Fabric Spreading
↓
Fabric Cutting
↓
Cut components inspection
↓
Numbering
↓
100% checking & Parts replacing if needed.
↓
Shorting & Bundling
↓
Sewing/Assembling

7.6 Fabric spreading:

Before fabric laying a thin paper as like as marker that is marker size and thin paper size is
same, then thin paper attach with spreading table by gum tape then spread the fabric
according to marker size.
Fabric cutting:
Fabric lay is cutting by straight knife cutting machine then separated cutting part.

7.7 Numbering:
In this stage sticker is attached with all part of cutting part for shade matching. The sticker
number maintains cutting number, size number, serial number.

7.8 M/c used in cutting section:

Fabric cutting m/c
Brand: Mack
Model: KS-AU V
Origin: Japan
Volts: 220v, 50/60 Hz
Number of m/c = 2 (One 8” & another 10”)

Numbering m/c:
Brand: BLITZ & Model:2253

62
7.9 Sewing Section:

Sewing department is the heart of a manufacturing unit. Cut components are assembled in

sewing department in assembly line. List of sub-processes those are done in sewing
department

includes.

 Making garment parts

 Sewing full garment
 Making garment accessories like tabs, cords etc.
 Checking of stitched garments
 Alteration work of defective garments

7.10 Lay out of sewing section at Islam garments:

63
7.11 Process Flow Chart:

Attend pre-production meeting

Receive sample

Receive work sheet

Receive Approved swatch

Operation Break-down

Machine layout

Receive cut Fabric from cutting section by using Receiving Register

Receive Sewing pattern from pattern maker

Marking at necessary parts

Input

First production approved by Q.C. department

Look after production

Cycle check

Line Balancing

Target setting

Co-operative with Q.C. Department

Hand over complete Garments to finishing section through end line Q.C. Inspector

Show hourly production on production board

Prepare every day input and production statement

64
7.11.1 Machineries:

 Over lock
 Single needle
 Flat lock
 Button stitch
 Button holing
 Piping cutter
 Bar tack
 Kansai
 Snap button

Fig:Plain machine Fig: Over lock machine

Fig: Bar tack machine

Sewing Quality Checking Points:

 Skip/ Drop / Broken Stitch
 Raw Edge
 Size Mistake
 Uneven Cuff
 Uneven Neck
 Uneven Shoulder
 Uneven Placket
 Uneven Pocket
 Twisting
 Without Care Label
 Open Task
 Sleeve Up-Down
 Stripe Up-Down
 Open Seam

65
  Four Point Up-Down
 Spot

7.11.2 Some defects of sewing operation:

 Skip/ Drop stitch  Shading
 Uneven stitch  Incorrect stitch per inch
 Over stitch  Pleat
 Joint stitch  Needle cut
 Raw edge  Wrong Thread
 Tension loose  Wrong size/ care label
 Broken stitch  Slanted
 Puckering  Wrong button placement
 Open stitch  Run off stitch

Sewing Problems “Factory”:

 Input problem
 Shortage of skilled operator
 Poor m/c maintenance
 Sometimes bulk production will start without layout as a result there is on production
target.
 To achieved the overtime, they worked slowly

Major operations carried out by the section:

 Collect counter sample

 Take cut panel measurement
 Front / back matching
 Start sewing
 Use mockup for critical operation
 Process wise thread trimming & cutting sticker remove
 Process quality check
 End table quality check
Product evaluations carried out by the process
 Calculate the production capacity.
 To establish proper layout of the sewing floor.
 To provide accurate guideline for the floor supervisor ,floor quality ,line chief and
other person of the floor.
 To solve any problem of the floor, it may production problem, worker problem etc.
 To provide production report and other information in the floor of the higher
authority.
 To look after the floor.
 To maintain the line chief line quality ,line supervisor and other persons of the floor.
 To solve any problem of any line in the sewing floor.
 To maintain line input and output materials.
 To find out per line production capacity of the sewing floor.
7.11.3 Finishing section:
66
The term garments finishing mainly applies to pressing, folding and packing of garments.
After completing pressing, the garments have to be folded. After completing pressing, the
garments are folded with a predetermined area. Garments are folded according to the
direction of Buyers requirements or in a standard area. Finishing is the final stage of garment
manufacturing. Quality is the major issue in finishing. Final quality inspection is applied here
which determines and ensure the total quality of the product.

The term finishing covers all textile dry/wet process, the general aim of finishing is to
improve attractiveness and/or serviceability of fabric. Finishing can:

-Improve the dimensional stability of the fabric

-Modify the handle of fabric
-Improve the appearance of fabric
-Improve the durability of the fabric
-Modify the serviceability of the fabric

7.11.4 Process flowchart:

Carton
↓
Needle check
↓
Packing
↓
Folding
↓
Hanging tag
↓
Needle check
↓
Getup check
↓
Quality check
↓
Pressing
↓
Body reversing
↓
Receiving

7.11.6
Receiving:
In finishing section receiving is the first procedure to start the activities of this section.
Receiving is mainly done by a supervisor who preserves all data about the bodies coming in
this section. The bodies completed all procedure of sewing section come to sewing section
received in receiving area.
67
Reversing:
After receiving the bodies are taken to a table to open the face side. Mainly in sewing section
bodies are in a state of backside opening form which is not suitable for pressing process so
some people are in a job of reversing these bodies.
Pressing:
This is a finishing process done by subjecting a cloth to heat & pressure with or without
steam to remove unintended creases and to impart a flat appearance to the cloth or garment.
Also, pressing is done to introduce creases in the garments. In garments industries, pressing is
called Ironing.
Object of pressing:
The main aim of pressing is to increase the adornment of the garments. Also the followings
are
the objects of pressing.
1. Removal of unwanted creases and crinkles
2. To apply creases where necessary
3. Shaping
4. Increase the beauty of garments and to impart a flat appearance to the cloth or garments.

Pressing equipments and methods:

The garments may be different in types especially different in design and garments materials.
As a result it needs different types of pressing for different types of garments. To do this it
needs different types of pressing machines. Because of it cannot be done all types of pressing
by using the same machine. There are different types of pressing machines or equipments
used in garments industries for ensuring required quality of garments are mentioned below:

1. Iron
2. Steam press
3. Steam air finish
4. Steam tunnel
Chemical Used to Remove Spot:
Dyeing Spot: Lifter
Cutting Spot: Thinner
Printing Spot: Thinner
Oil Spot: Thinner or Power
Sewing Spot: Lifter

Thinner:
Thinner is used to remove the soil spot, color spot, dust and dirty spot, etc

Lifter:
Lifter is used to remove the oil spot, soil spot, sewing spot etc.

Water:
Water is used to remove the dirty spot, ink color, etc.
Folding:
After completing pressing, the garments have to be folded. After completing pressing, the
garments are folded with a predetermined area. Garments are folded according to the
direction of buyers requirements or in a standard area. Classification of folding depends on
the fabric type. There are mainly 4 types of folding available.
68
Stand up: Collar is folded with body and situated at 90⁰ angles.
Semi stand up: Collar is folded with body and situated at 45⁰ angles.
Flat pack: Collar is spread as a whole on the body of shirt.
Hanger pack: Shirt is packed and transported by hanging on the hanger.

Basic Ironing symbols:

Do not iron

Cool iron (110°)

Medium iron (150°)

Hot iron (200°)

7.11.7 Metal Detection:

Ok garments are inspection and passed through the metal detection machine. The machine
determines whether the garments contain any ferrous components or not. If a garment
contents any ferrous item or broken needle, the garment will fail to pass the machine and it
will come back. Fail garments are kept in reject box kept beside the metal detector machine.
The passed garments are kept to the quarantine area.

Fig: Metal Detector M/c.

Type of packing:

-Solid size packing (One size garment)

-Ratio packing (Similar color, different size)
-Assort packing (Different color, different size)

Type of Carton: BOX MASTER & PLAIN-INNE

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8.1 Washing: Garments washing is the vast place for the textile engineers or chemical
engineers to prove their capability in today’s readymade garment business. New comers of
this sector have to learn so many in the earlier stage of their job to sustain here.

8.2 Objective of washing:

 To remove size material (starch) from the garments.

 To remove any dirt, dust, spot, impurities, germ which is present duringmanufacturing.

 To prevent further shrinkage of wash garments.

 To produce similar or different outlook in the garments.

 To develop softness in fabric by removing hardness of fabric.

8.3 Types Of Garments Washing:

Wet wash:
 Light wash
 Rinse wash
 Sand wash
 Garment wash
 Enzyme wash
 Bleach wash
 Enzyme bleach wash
 Heavy enzyme + stone wash
 Heavy enzyme + stone wash + bleach wash
 Softener silicon wash & Acid wash
8.4 General Sequence Of Wet Process:
Desize

Enzyme

Bleach

Neutralize

Tinting / Dyeing

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72
 Work Study:

Work study is the systematic examination of the methods of carrying on activities so as to

improve the effective use of resources and to set up standards of performance for the
activities being carried out.

Method Study :

Method study is the systematic recording and critical examination of ways of doing things in
order to make improvements.

Work Measurement:

Work measurement is the application of techniques designed to establish the time for a
qualified worker to carry out a task at a defined rate of working.

Time Study:

Time study is a work measurement technique for recording the times of performing a certain
specific job or its elements carried out under specified conditions, and for analyzing the data
so as to obtain the time necessary for an operator to carry it out at a defined rate of
performance.

Time Study Tools:

To do time study you need to arrange following tools

1. A stop watch
2. Time study format
3. One pen or pencil
4. Time Study board

Work Cycle:
A work cycle is a sequence of elements which are required to perform a job or yield a unit of
production. The sequence may sometimes include occasional elements.

Rating:

Rating is the assessment of the worker’s rate of working relative to the observer’s concept of
the rate corresponding to standard pace.

Standard Performance:

Standard performance is the rate of output which qualified workers will naturally achieve
without over-exertion as an average over the working day or shift, provided that they know
and adhere to the specified method and provided that they are motivated to apply themselves
to their work.

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This performance is denoted as 100 on the standard rating and performance scales.

SMV:
SMV is an abbreviation word; it means “Standard Minute Value”. In the efficiency report
SMV means the total time required for produce garments in sewing section. In sewing section
SMV calculating time start from input transfer from input rack to sewing operator all the
sewing process up to the final sewing process check.
For a specific process SMV calculation process include:
1. Pickup time: It means the operator when touch the parts up to starting sewing.
2. Stitching time: Is means the time when the garments passing under the needle.
3. Dispose time: Is means the time after finish the stitch the garments take off from
the machine thread cutting and pass it to another process.

SMV factor:
 SMV factor is a numerical standard value, which is constant for a specific quantity.
 SMV always calculates on standard qualified worker.
 SMV with factor means SMV multiply by factor.

 So the capacity= X Number of worker in the line

Efficiency:
Efficiency means the capacity of a person or machine or a specific process. It is the
combination of different activities are-
- Standard time limit
- Consumed time.
- Number of employee
- Total input
- Total output
- Denoted variable (Percentage).
To calculate Efficiency there is a specific formula.
Efficiency for a single line= x100 %

Example: Say,
SMV (Standard Minute Value) = 21.70 Minutes
Specific line total output =1300pcs
Total worker in the line = 85 person
Total working hours =10 hours
1 hour = 60 minute

Efficiency for a single line = x100

=55.314%

Basic Time:

Basic time is the time for carrying out an element of work at standard rating, i.e.

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(Observed time x observed rating)/ Standard rating

Selected Time:

The selected time is the time chosen as being representative of a group of times for
an element or group of elements. These times may be either observed or basic and
should be denoted asselected observed or selected basic time.

Relaxation Allowance:

Relaxation allowance is an addition to the basic time intended to provide the worker with the
opportunity to recover from the physiological and psychological effects of carrying out
specified work under specified conditions and to allow attention to personal needs. The
amount of allowance will depend on the nature of the job.

Standard Time:

Standard time is the total time in which a job should be completed at standard performance.

Predetermined Time:

A predetermined time standard is a work measurement technique whereby times established

for basic human motions (classified according to the nature of the motion and the conditions
under which it is made) are used to build up the time for a job at a defined level of
performance.

Work Specifications:

A work specification is a document setting out the details of an operation or job, how it is to
be performed, the layout of the workplace, particulars of machines, tools and appliances to be
used, and the duties and responsibilities of the worker. The standard time or allowed time
assigned to the job is normally included.

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 9.1 Flow chart of Working Process

Prepare a machine lay out.

↓

Monitoring the line situation.

↓

Time study and balancing.

↓

Individual operation follows up.

↓

Line wise efficiency, daily report.

↓

Daily lost time analysis

9.2 Benefit of Work Study:

1. It increases productivity at cheap cost.

2. It is a systematic and comprehensive method of analyzing a problem. So low factor is
overlook in evaluating the problem and finding out the solution.
3. It can be easily and quickly implemented.
4. It provokes benefit as soon as it is applied and continuous till it is in use.
5. It can reduce hazard by developing made of work.
6. It is the most accurate method of setting time of performance upon which effective
planning and production control relies upon.
7. Production quota can be determined for daily or hourly workers.

9.3 Work Study Officer & IE Responsibilities:

 List & Inventories the entire available operator, helper & machine.
 Balance each line hourly production target.
 Prepare daily basis absent report & make a plan to balance.
 Ensure operation training scheme monthly.

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10.1 Inventory: Inventory is the stock of any item or resources used in an organization.

10.2 Fabric storage: Supplied grey fabrics are first subjected to the 4 point inspection system.
Only those goods are stored here which are passed from the quality control department.
Defected fabrics are store in rejected area and then back to the supplier.

10.3 Types:
Here exists 3 types of store.
1. General store.
2. Fabric store.
3. Accessories store.
Fabric inventory:
Various types of fabric and accessories such as sewing thread, button, interlining, zippers,
label etc are stored in a room. Here also machine parts and stationary are stored in store
room.
Accessories: The materials which are not attached with the body of garments by sewing, only
used for garments finishing and packing (decorative purposes) are termed as accessories. The
main difference between trimmings and accessories is, trimmings are used as functional.

10.4 Accessories inventory items:

LABEL : Labels are the most important trimmings by which customer easily know about
the product. Here two types of label are available.
1. Main label: It contains the name of the buyer and country.
2. Sub label:
a) Size label: It contains the size of the garment.
b) Care label: It contains care construction. Different types of care label are given below.
1) Washing Code
2) Bleaching Code
3) Ironing Code
4) Dry cleaning Code etc
c) Composition: It contains fiber composition of the fabric. Ex: 65% cotton, 30% polyester,
5% lycra.

Sewing Thread:
Different types of sewing threads are available in store room. Such as,
a) 20/2
b) 20/3
c) 20/9 ( Used in eyelet and bar tack m/c)
d) 40/2 ( Most thinnest thread).

Button:
Buttons are hardware items used in junction with buttonholes for the fastening of garments.

Purpose:

The purposes of using buttons are:

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A) Functional purpose:
This referee to buttons which are used to open and close garments with security.

B) Decorative purpose:
These are buttons which are used purely for decorative purpose .for example, Sleeve vents.
Types of buttons:

Zipper:
This is one kind of trimming which is use open and close of special parts of garments.
Purpose:
Functional:
Functional purpose of zipper is as a part of a garment here zipper is used to open and close
the openings.

Decorative purpose:
Where zipper is used as a decorative purpose, it increases the beauty of garments.
Uses:
In making trousers and jackets , chain or zipper is in essential component which is used to
open.
Types of zipper:
According to manufacturing material there are 3 types of zipper.
1. Metal zipper:
Metal zipper is used in trousers and shorts.
2. Nylon zipper: Polyester or nylon zipper are used in jackets .It is made from a continuous
filament paced onto narrow fabric tape.
Slider:
It is move up and down. Function of slider is to engage or disengage the teeth of opposite
sides of chain.
Slider mainly three types they are:-
1. Non –locking.
2. Semi-looking.
3. Full or auto locking. or close of special parts of garment.

10.5 Interlining:
Interlining are used to support reinforce and control the shape of some areas of garments such
as collar, cuffs, waist bands ,facings and in front of corts .They may be sewn into the
garments or they may be attached by the fusing .Nowadays sewn interlining are hardly used and
usable interlinings are widely used.

Interlining is available in a wide variety of weights and constructions to mach the fabric of
garment. They can be woven non -woven product .Woven interlining are most commonly of
plain weave construction, whereas non-woven interlining are made directly from textile fibers
and are held together by mechanical ,chemical ,thermal or solvent means or combination of
these.

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11.1 ETP plant is very important for our environment. By reusing water we can save our
environment. The effluent is treated here by lime & acid. Sometimes poly aluminum chloride
is used instead of lime. The PH of outlet water is 7.01 & the PH of entering water of boiler.

Effluent in the artificial sense is generally considered to be water pollution, such as the
outflow from a sewage treatment facility or the wastewater discharge from industrial
facilities. In textile and wet processing industry use different types of dyes and chemicals in
the operation of weaving, dyeing, printing, finishing and garment washing plant. This
wastewater is treated in effluent treatment plant (ETP).

Textile wastewater is the main source of organic contamination regarding pollution within the
textile industry. Several cleaning processes may be used to remove organic pollutants from
textile waste water. In general, we distinguish between physical methods (adsorption,
filtration methods, coagulation and flocculation processes), chemical methods (oxidation,
advanced oxidation, Fenton’s reagent) and more recently, more attractive biological treatment
(anaerobic, aerobic) as an effective option for relatively inexpensive effluent de-coloration.
Non-destructive physical techniques just transfer the pollutants to other mediums (sludge,
concentrate in filtration techniques) and cause secondary pollution.

11.2 Process sequence of effluent treatment plant (ETP) in wet processing:

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 Primary filtration
↓
Cooling & Mixing
↓
Neutralization by acid/alkali dosing
↓
Chemical coagulation
↓
Setting & separation of sludge
↓
Bio-degradation
↓
Again setting & separation of sludge
↓
Sludge pit
↓
Filtration
↓
Discharge to drain

Primary filtration:
Waste liquor after pretreatment, dyeing, printing and finishing is subjected to primary
filtration in which removal of gross solids, such as waste threads, fabric pieces, lint’s etc.
takes place.

Cooling & Mixing:

After primary filtration, the liquor passes to cooling and mixing tank in which uniform
mixing of effluents from various process takes place. A paddle mixer is provided for mixing.
Cooling of the effluent may be done with the help of cooling tower.

Neutralization:

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The effluent is pumped to a tank in which it is neutralized by acid or alkali dozing. The tank
has an automatic dosing controller which at automatically control the dose of acid or alkali to
maintain the required pH.

Coagulation:
Then the effluent is pumped to the coagulation tank. Chemical coagulation very effective for
removal of color and suspended materials, aluminum, ferrous sulphates, ferric chloride,
chlorinated copper etc. to increase the efficiency of coagulation, coagulation gain may be
added for example polyacrylate.

Setting & separation of sludge:

Some of the soluble organic matter and light suspended solids will form a blanket of
flocculent matter with the coagulants. The blanket is skimmed off to another tank and the
remaining solution is moved to pressure filter.

Pressure filter:
For pressure filtration vacuum pumps may be used to force through the filter and suspended
flocks are collected in the pressure fine filter.

Discharging to drain:
After filtration the purified water sent to drain which eventually reach to the river or
anywhere else.

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84
 UTILITY SERVICES
Power & Utilities Section
Description of m/c No of m/c Cpacity
Generated Power
Prime power generated ,
Cruascar Gas Generated 1 Unit 636KW
Model: FGLD 480
Origin : Spain
Stand by : Diesel Generator, Puma 1 Unit 140KW
Origin : England
Sub station 1000kAV
Total connected load 1776kw
Air Compressor
Kaiser Screw Compressor, 2 Units 8M3 /MIN
Model: AS44,30 KW,4M3/MIN. each
Omgersp: Rand
Reciprocating Compressor 1 Unit 8M3 /MIN
Model: SSR ML 5057.5kW
CAPACITY of air discharge
Ingersol Rand
Reciprocating Compressor 2 Units 4.40 M3/MIN
Model : 3000.22 kW
SWAN Reciprocating
Compressor, 1 M 3/MIN
Model: C4080,10 kW
Total air discharge capacity 251.4M3/MIN

Description OF Water Pump No. of m/c Capacity

Centrifugal pump for water supply to dyeing 1 100 m3/h
& others Section
20HP pedrollo pump each pump, 4 Unit 4000L/min
1000L/min flow rate
20HP pedrollo pump each pump,600L/min 1 Unit 600 L/min
min flow rate
5.5HP pedrollo pump each pump,350L/min 1 Unit 350 L/min
min flow rate
Spare Pump motor Pedtollo 20HP 1 Unit 1 L/min 000
Boiler
Ciever Brooks Boiler 10 tons/hr 1 Set

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Prime power Generator:

 Brand name: GUASCOR

 ORIGIN: Spain
 Model: FGLD
 Stand by voltage; 380 kw,795 KVA
 Prime voltage: 636KW,1208 KVA
 Phase; 3
 Weight5; 1845 kg
Diesel Generator:

 Brand name; KOMATSU

 Origin: Singapore
 Model: EGS630-3
 Stand by voltage; 440 kw,550 KVA
 Prime voltage: 440KW,550 KVA
 Phase: 3
 Weight5: 3
 3800kg
Boiler:

 Brand name: Cleaver Brooks

 ORIGIN: U.S.A
 Model: CB700-650
 SL No: L94002
 Max. pressure:200 psi

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87
MAINTENANCE
Objective of maintenance

1. To keep the factory plants, equipment ,machine, tools, in the optimum condition.
2. To ensure specified accuracy to product and the schedule of delivary to customer.
3. To keep the downtime of machines miniumthes to have control over the production
program.
4. To keep the production cycle within the stipulated range to modify the machine tools
to meet the need for production.

Maintenance Tools, Equipments& their function:

Name of Tools Functions

Hammaer To give shape

Slide Wrench Tightening & opening bolt
Spanner Tightening & opening bolt
Pliar Cutting Holding, Joining Wire Hacksaw Cutting
Pipe Wrence Tightening, opening, gripping pipe Chisel Shaping, cutting
File Shaping
Clamp Griping

Name of Equipments Functions:

Grinding m/c Grinding

Cutting m/c Cutting
Drill m/c Drilling
Lathe m/c To make something
Shaping m/c Shipping
Shaping Bending

88
 MAINTENANCE PROCEDURE:
Normally preventive maintenance is used. During
Maintenance period following points should be checked

CHEKCK LIST OF DIFFERENT PARTS

Maintenance :
Mechanical
Machine ;
Dueing

SL.Items need to be checked & serviced

1. Grease the m/c bearing.

2. Complete cleaning of m/c
3. Cleaning of drain valves, replace seals if required.
4. Check air supply filters, regulators auto drain seals.
5. Clean filters element & blow out.
6. Greasing of unloading roller bearing.
7. Checking of oil level and bolts unloading roller gearbox.
8. Checking of unloading roller coupling and packing.
9. Checking and cleaning(if required) of main vessel level indicator
10. Check the oil level of pump bearing and refill if required.
11. Check the function of heat and cool modulating valvas.Check all door seals.

MAINTENANCE: ELECTRICAL
MACHINE: DYEING MACHING
SL. ITEMES NEED TO BE CHECKED & SERVICED

1. Check& clean fluff & dirt at drit at all motor fan covers.
2.Check all motors terminals.
3. Check main panels (by using compressed air).
4. Check penel cooling fun and clean its filter.
5. Clean main pump invertor and its cooling fun.
6. Check all circuit breaker, magnetic conductors and relays.
7. Check current setting of all circuit preacher and motor over load.
8. Visual checking of all power and control cables.
9. Check all pressure switches.
10. Check calibration of main vessel and all addition tank.
11. Check all pneumatic solenoids.
12. Check calibration of heating or cooling modulating valve.
13. Check setting of tangle sector.
14. Check setting and operation of lid safely switches.
15. Check all emergency switches.
16. Check all on/off switches.
17. Check all indicating lamps.
18. Check all signal isolators.

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90
Compliance means conformity of certain standard PPC maintain a moderate working
condition for their employees. Though it is well established project , there is some lacking of
proper compliance issues. Here is list of compliance in which some points are maintained
fully and some are partially
 Compensation for holiday
 Sexual harassment plicy
 Child labor abolition policy
 Anti-discrimination
 Zero abusement
 Working hour
 Hiring/recruitment
 Environment
 Security
 Buyers code of conduct
 Health care and safety committee
 Canteen
 Equal remuneration
 National holiday
 Overtime register
 Labor welfare
 Weekly holiday fund
 Time care
 Accident register
 Workman register
 Leave with wag
 Children Day Care
Health:
 Drinking water at least 4.5 L/day/employee
 Cup availability
 Drinking water supply
 Water cooler, heater available in canteen
 Drinking water signs in Bangla and English locate min 20 feet away from work place
 Drinking water vassal clean at once in a week
 Water center in chage person with cleanliness
 Suggestion box register
Toilet:
 Separate toilet for woman and men
 A seat with proper privacy and lock facility
 Effective water sewage system
 Soap toilet
 Water tap
 Dust bins
 Toilet white washed one in every four month
 Daily cleaning log sheet
 No-smoking signs
 Ladies/gents toilet signs both in bangle and English
 Deposal of wastes and effluent

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Fire:
 Sufficient fire extinguisher and active
 Access area without hindrance
 Fire signs in both languages
 Fire certified personal photo
 Emergency exit
Safety Guard:
 Metal glows on good conditions
 Rubber mats and ironers
 First aid box one
 Ironers wearing sleepers
 First trained employees
 Motor/needle guard
 Eye guard
 Doctor
 Medicine
 Welfare officer
Others:
 Room temperature
 Lighting facilities

FIRST AID BOX DOCTOR

FIRE TRAINING

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Conclusion:
We have completed our industrial attachment successfully by the grace of Allah.
The industrial training gives me the opportunity to work in mills.. This training gives me
actual picture about man, machine, material, methods and market. I have earned the direct
knowledge about the raw materials, actual running condition of the m/c, works technologist
and administration.

This mill is a well planned with enough expansion facilities. There exist wonderful employer
and worker relation. Working environment for the labors is also good. During my training I
visited knitting, weaving, lab, Dyeing and garments section. Everywhere I got cordial
behavior from all employees.

On this training for 8 weeks in the ISLAM KNIT DESIGNS LTD(ISLAM GARMENTS
LTD). has give me a new experience for practical life. City University has given me the
field to perform the industrial attachment with ISLAM KNIT DESIGNS LTD( ISLAM
GARMENTS LTD). This attachment seems to me as a bridge to minimize the gap between
theoretical and practical knowledge. Undoubtedly, this attachment paved me the way to learn
more about Textile Technology, industrial practices, industrial management and production
process.
.

Limitation of this Report

i. Because of secrecy act, the data on costing and marketing activities has not been
Supplied & hence this report excludes these chapters.

ii. We had a very limited time. In spite of our willing to study more details it was not
Possible to do so.

iii. Some of the points in different chapter are not described as these were not available.

Lastly
What special in this report is that the information, data & description very much subjective &
Practical. So, one can easily have an idea about the whole dyeing unit of Islam Garments
Limited at single look on it.
The newcomer can use this report for further detailed study or can know Islam Garments
Limited without much work. But one thing should be remembered that, some process steps of
chemical may be modified within the period this paper goes to the readers.
I believe with all these, the experience of the industrial attachment will help my future life as
a Textile Technologist.

94