The

26.5mm
Handbook
(Vol 1. Basics)

V1.1 1
 Table of Contents
Legal & Warning Statements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Prequel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Chapter 1: Basics 5
Governing Documents and Regulations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Choosing a Launcher . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Types Ammunition (Commercial) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Types Ammunition (Homemade) . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Ammunition Nomenclature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Chapter 2: Building Your Launcher 11

Good to Know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Prep Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Testing Your Build. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Chapter 3: Building Your Shells 14

Getting Started . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Lift Charges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Shell Casings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Chapter 4: Projectiles 22
Getting Started. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Chapter 5: Conclusion 26

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 Legal & Warning Statements
Under no circumstances should this document be taken as
legal advice nor advice at all. Every act performed by the
reader of this document is performed solely under the
responsibility of the reader.

Homemade weapons, launchers, ammunition, and alike are

inherently dangerous and should be treated as such.
Complacency, disrespect, or idiocy involving these items will
result in injury or death.

This document is designed to get the reader pointed in the

right direction to perform their own research on the covered
topics. Regardless of the topic, it is always recommended you
do your own research and arm yourself with information
before designing or building any homemade device.

By continuing to read this document, you agree that any

action carried out by the reader is performed at the readers
discretion and solely under the responsibility of the reader.

Be safe and follow your local laws.

3
 Prequel
Please see the 37mm Handbook for additional information.

26.5mm launchers are an emerging class of signaling device. With its growing
popularity, we thought it would be a good idea to make a 26.5mm handbook to help
guide future launcher-heads to success.

All legalities that apply to 37mm apply to 26.5mm, too.

Please be safe.

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 Chapter 1
Basics
Governing Documents and Regulations
[1] 18 U.S. Code Chapter 44 - FIREARMS

[2] 26 U.S. Code Chapter 53 - MACHINE GUNS, DESTRUCTIVE DEVICES, AND

CERTAIN OTHER FIREARMS

[3] ATF Rul. 95-3 (Doc# 1995-3)

Summery:

The above documents define and regulate what a firearm is and the associated
rules/restrictions.

You will notice the definition of “Destructive Device” includes “…any type of
weapon…which has any barrel with a bore of more than one-half inch in diameter…”

37mm & 26.5mm is clearly larger than 1/2in, but if you read further with-in the Code
you will see the exemption that reads “The term “destructive device” shall not include
any device which is neither designed nor redesigned for use as a weapon; any device,
although originally designed for use as a weapon, which is redesigned for use as a
signaling, pyrotechnic, line throwing, safety, or similar device;...”

This is where the 37mm & 26.5mm launchers live; the key phrase being “...neither
designed nor redesigned for use as a weapon…”. This means developers and builders of
launchers must develop and build them with the intent to use them within the guidance
of the exemption. Most developers design their launcher systems as signaling devices
and intend for the builders to use them as such.

Its important to understand that just because a launcher is designed and built as a
signaling device doesn’t mean it will always stay within that classification. The launcher
space can slip into gray areas not explicitly defined by law, but we do have some
guidance on the matter. The ATF published a ruling on things that will change the
classification of you launcher to a destructive device.

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The ATF ruling states “When a gas/flare gun is possessed with “anti-personnel” type
ammunition… registration as a destructive device is required”. This means that even
possessing both a Launcher and ammunition ruled to be “Anti-Personnel” changes the
classification of your launcher. Regardless of your actual intent, the ATF will likely
assume your intent to be unlawful.

In that same ruling, the ATF defines “Anti-Personnel” ammunition as “consisting

of cartridges containing wood pellets, rubber pellets or balls, or bean bags…”. So, unless
you have the proper licensing, we will stay clear of these types of projectiles.

To add to the above, intent alone may change the classification of your launcher. Anyone
who intends to use the launcher against another person has now potentially shown the
intent to harm them, thus reclassifying the launcher as a “Weapon” and a “Destructive
device” regardless of the ammunition type.

All that being said; We, as members of this community, have an inherent responsibility
to act in a moral and responsible manner to build and uphold our reputation.

Now, to the fun bits.

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 Choosing a 26.5mm Launcher

26.5mm is a common signaling device caliber, meaning there are a number of

commercial launchers. Most launchers are going to be older mil-surp launchers, but
there are modern ones currently being produced.

As we progress 26.5mm DIY technology, more launchers will become available. It can
be inferred that build difficulty will be similar to 37mm builds.

If you're looking to test the waters, the AC Unity 26.5 is a great starting launcher costing
~$125

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 Types of Ammunition (Commercial)

Similar to the launchers, the ammunition can either be commercially manufactured or

homemade. Most 26.5mm commercial ammunition is older mil-surp and rather pricey.

Unlike 37mm, the majority of commercially produced 26.5 ammunition are flares.

You may find other currently produced ammo, but it is expensive and usually out of
stock.

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Types of Ammunition (Homemade)

Homemade ammunition is where 26.5mm shines.

26.5mm is inherently more “Spicy” than 37mm, due to its higher pressures and lower air
resistance.

Dependent on tolerances, yellow ramsets will send a projectile @500-1000fps.

Due to the fact that homemade ammunition is still emerging, we wont list the types
available in this guide. Instead, current ammunition will be included in the files.

Due to the higher stress from the rounds, hybrid cases are strongly encouraged. Printed
cases will work, but will break after the first shot almost every time.

There are 2 main types of hybrid material thicknesses used; 1.25mm & 1mm wall
thickness tubing. The build guides and links will be below.

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 Ammunition Nomenclature

Below are a few images showing some nomenclature and configurations of some
26.5mm rounds. Keep in mind that some designers may call their parts something
different the concepts are mostly the same. Additionally, Some designs may have
additional features dependent on the use case.

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 Chapter 2
Building Your Launcher
Good to Know
Every launcher listed above comes with a guide. Read the guide and if you have a
question, read the guide again. Chances are, if you’ve run into an issue, you're not the
first person to find that issue. Ensure you have the most up-to date files. You can check
and see if there are any forum posts about the issue, or you can see if there is a public
chat room to help builders.

As mentioned before, DIY guns, and especially launchers, can be extremely dangerous.
Competency & respect will keep you safe and complacency kills. Dev & Testing teams
make sure they go through all of the steps to make sure the launcher is safe to use, but
no-one can account for idiocy.

Builds will often call for very specific hardware listed on a Bill of Materials. Its
important to follow that listing as close as possible. Substituting materials is discouraged
and always done at the risk of the builders. This is especially true with things like
adhesives. If the build calls for a specific epoxy, that is because it was tested and verified
with that specific epoxy.

Prep Work
Some items need preparing before use. Most 26.5mm launchers use 1in EMT as barrels,
which is naturally built with flaws.

EMT has a weld seam that runs the entire length on the inside. Additionally, EMT isn’t
always perfectly round. The steel used isn't hardened and is prone to denting. These
issues can lead to a projectile becoming lodged within the barrel.

While you may look strange at the hardware checking the roundness of EMT, but it can
make building much easier. Additionally, threaded/linear rods, bar stock, and other
structural materials should be straight and free of damage for the best results.

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If you want to remove the weld seam, the use of a Caliper Hone or Flex Hone will assist
in making the bore more suitable for your launcher. If you wish to use a cheaper option,
sand paper and a dowel rod will eventually get you the same result. Be sure to use a
lubricant or cutting fluid while preping your barrel. The goal is to flatten and smooth the
seam and remove any internal coating or debris that may have found its way into the
post.

Keep in mind, Launcher Devs and builds are using other types of barrels, to include
seamless. You will not need to hone these.

Caliper Hone Flex Hone

Finished Barrel

While building your launcher, it is important to keep in mind what kind of shells you
will be launching. This will usually dictate the shape and size of your firing pin.

We will talk about them in chapter 3 but 209 primers will use a more traditional firing
pin, with a rounded front, while ramsets will require more of a chisel shaped tip.

As with any build, you will go through the trial and error process to get your launcher
reliably firing

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 Testing Your Build
Its always a good idea to test your build with non-energetic rounds and smaller lift
charges. During your first few shots, its recommend to analyze your build for any cracks
or damage that may have formed. Continue to do this as you increase the power of your
rounds. If damage exists or starts to form, stop using your launcher and rebuild the
damaged part.

Initial tests can be done with no projectile at all. Just a primer or weaker ramset. Then
you can start adding powder and different projectiles into the mix.

Its important watch out for are firing pin over-travel. This can puncture your primer and
allow gases to escape out of the back of the round.

Its a good idea to drop the projectile down the barrel before attempting to fire it
explosively. This will ensure the barrel is free of any obstructions and you printer is
calibrated correctly. DO NOT force a round into the chamber. If your round gets stuck,
identify and fix the problem before proceeding.

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 Chapter 3
Building Your Shells
Getting Started:

There is a list of basic equipment and supplies that are suggested for building your
rounds. That list includes:
-3D Printer -Calipers -Hot Glue Gun (w/ glue)
-Masking Tape -Rubber Bands -Modeling Clay
-Gorilla Glue -Line Marking Chalk
-BP Volumetric Powder Measurer

Additionally, you’ll need energetic materials:

-209 Primers -.22 Ramsets -FFF Black Powder (3FBP) or Pyrodex P

First we will look at Lift Charges. A Lift Charge is our main powder charge to push the
projectile out of the barrel. It can not be over stated enough, improper decisions on a lift
charge can result in catastrophic failure of the round or worse, the launcher.
NEVER USE SMOKELESS POWDER AS A LIFT CHARGE.
There are 2 main ways we launch our 26.5mm projectiles: 209 Primer & BP, Ramsets

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 Lift Charges:

Ramsets:
Ramsets are traditionally used in Ramset Nail Guns to drive nails into hardened
surfaces. These shells are powered by smokeless powder and are surprisingly powerful.
Ramsets are an all-in-one solution as a lift charge, as they provide enough pressure to
launch your projectile. They act in a similar fashion as a Hi-Low round. The crimping on
top contains the expansion of gasses until it cannot anymore.
Ramsets are not without flaws though. You will find that ramsets are inherently difficult
to initiate. This is due to the rimfire design. Firing pins used for ramsets need to be
specifically shaped (squared) and the round in a specific orientation in the chamber to
achieve initiation. Additionally, you will find that most 3d printed shells made for
ramsets integrate a washer at the base, since rimfire requires a hard surface to be struck
onto.
Ramsets come color coded on the packaging and crimps to identify power levels. The
general consensus is that DeWalt brand ramsets in yellow or red are most reliable.

Standard Firing Pin Shape

With a little trial and error, ramsets can be rewarding, offering distances of 100yds+

15
209 Primers & Black Powder:
This is widest used method of lift charge, not only in homemade shells, but in the
majority of commercial and pre-made cases.

First we will address designations used to classify Black Powder. BP is measured in “F”s
from 1-4 depending on the coarseness of the grain. “F” being the coarsest & slowest
burning and “FFFF” being the finest & fastest burning.

It is recommended that you use no finer than “FFF” Rifle/Cannon, or Pyrodex P (BP
substitute) powder as your lift charge. Be mindful that BP is measured volumetrically
and NOT by weight. DO NOT USE FFFF Powder.

While building a BP shell may not be as easy as it is with a ramset, you will become
proficient as you build more. The process is still rather simple though. First you press
the 209 primer into the rear of the shell. It is recommended that you use a softer material
with a large surface area to press in the primer (ie. a wooden block) as direct pinpointed
pressure can initiate the primer. Next you will load your powder charge.

Powder charges can vary dependent on how well your shell and projectile is made.
Please note that a higher volume of BP DOES NOT mean that you will get better
performance. For your first shells it is recommended that you use around 5-10gr of
3FBP. Then hone in your assembly process. Once you’re comfortable with your design
you can increase the lift charge. DO NOT EXCEED 20gr as a lift charge. You can
achieve optimal distances with 10-15gr and proper assembly.

16
A good seal will launch your projectile more efficiently with less BP. A bad seal will
cause a lot of smoke and fire out of the muzzle and lesser distances will be observed.
These seals are usually accomplished with O-rings, tape or hot glue. Additionally,
adding wadding over the powder in the powder cup will ensure a nice even burn. This is
an often overlooked step, but it will definitely make a difference.

It is important that you DO NOT ATTEMPT to permanently affix the projectile to the
shell with high strength adhesives (Gorilla Glue, Super Glue, etc.) as this may cause a
catastrophic failure of the shell or launcher. Hot glue is the only recommended adhesive
to be used. Assembly will be covered in a later chapter

Remember to clean your launcher after shooting BP or a BP substitute. They are

corrosive and will rust your metal parts.

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 Shell Casings

Shell casings are classified in 3 basic types: Fully Printed, Commercial, & Hybrid.
As everything else, there are pros and cons of each.

Commercial:
There are available 26.5mm Casing, most made of plastic and a few aluminum options.
There are not many projectiles designed around these cases, as the community prefers
hybrid cases.

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Fully Printed:
Fully Printed shells are, of course, the cheapest option here. You can basically think of
these as disposable, due to the fact that they will likely break after the first shot.

This is not to say you cannot learn using printed shells, in-fact quite the opposite.
Printed shells are a good place to start, especially with lesser lift charges. They are also
good to test your new launcher build.

Fully Printed shells usually come in 209 & BP and Ramset setups. There are quite a few
designs floating around. But because of the deficiencies listed above, its better to work
in the lower limits of recommended BP volume/weaker classes of Ramsets.

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Hybrids:
Hybrid shells are our best option when it comes to the performance to cost ratio. While
it make take a little work to build them, you will find that they are well worth it, and for
only a few dollars for multiple shells.
Hybrid designs usually incorporate a metal hull, with a printed base-plate/insert. We use
a few different standards to create out hybrid shells. We will list them blow.
Since you’re already building your launcher, you will likely have all the required
equipment to make these shells. Build materials include: sandpaper/files, epoxy, &
cutting tools.
The current hybrid deigns use metal pipes, cut to ~50mm with a printed insert epoxied in

There are 2 wall thicknesses used 1mm & 1.25mm. The hybrid files include printed
inserts for both.

Here is a list of tubing that has been used:

Aluminum 26 OD x 24 ID (1mm thick): -Link-

Stainless Steel (1.25mm Thick): -Link-
Carbon Fiber 26 OD x 24 ID (1mm Thick): -Link-
Copper Tubing 26 OD x 24 ID (1mm Thick): -Link-

Epoxy: You want to use an epoxy that can bond plastics and has a reasonable working time
(15min+). We recommend JB Weld or equivalent. (superglue is not an acceptable substitute)

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Hybrid Assembly:

-Cut your Tubing to length (50mm)

-Cut guide included

-Ensure the ends are free of burrs. Sand the inside

of the sleeve for better adhesion.

-Epoxy the inserts into the tube, wiping away all

of the remaining epoxy. Ensure you have good
coverage and contact between the sleeve and the
insert.

-Let the epoxy cure fully before loading and firing.

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 Chapter 4
Projectiles & Round Assembly
Getting Started:

Its important to remember that when developing projectiles for launchers, the purpose
must be related to signaling in some way or form. We have a few categories that meet
this requirement, mainly Visual and Audible. Other purposes can be used that aren't
directly tied into signaling, like bird bangers, that have a specific purpose of scaring
birds away from a designated location. We tend to stay away from gray areas that can be
mistaken for Anti-personnel purposes.

One goal while writing this guide was to standardize/organize home-made ammunition.
With any new technology, users developed plenty of shells and projectiles. We took the
best ideas of what we could find and combined them all together. This isn’t to say new
and improved methods shouldn’t be attempted, but instead it provides a good starting
point for those who may want to innovate further. Hunting down all of the rounds within
the community can be difficult, but we will continue to update the file pack as we come
across more.

This handbook more revolves around homemade shells and projectiles. While we will
not get into the “advanced” projectiles that involve explosives or specific chemistry, we
will go over the step by step of assembling your rounds.

The most common 26.5mm type you will see is the JP Poly Round. Most projectiles are
designed around this shell standard. Regardless of which shells you use, the assembly
concepts remain the same.

Easy home made rounds are usually non pyrotechnic signaling rounds. These are cheap
and easy, and don’t have a risk of setting your target area on fire.

Balloon LEDs work great. (Link)

Of course, a clear nose cone will work best for this application.

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 Assembly:

-First you must print the bits for the round. This is usually with all walls and
dimensional accuracy is pretty important.

-Next we’ll do some prep work to our prints. Dependent on how clean your prints are,
you’ll likely want to sand the Z-seam down and get rid of any elephants foot, strings,
etc.

-After you've cleaned up your round, we’ll look at the primer pocket. Ensure there are
no loose strings or support material because we need the primer to sit pretty flush. Don’t
drill out the pocket just yet, as we need a snug fit.

-For 209s you should be able to start it into the hole by hand, it should get pretty
tight though. For that, we will use a press, vise, or clamps. Ensure you use a soft
material like wood, plastic or hard rubber (free of protrusions) and place it on
the primer side. Primers are pressure sensitive, so if yours applying enough
pressure to deform the primer, STOP and re-assess. You’ll likely need to widen the
diameter of the primer pocket a little. Use a 6mm drill bit to ream the hole if
needed.

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 -For ramsets, you'll want to be a little more cautious, as the entire rim of the
ramset contains the primer compound. If you damage the rim, it may ignite. But
inserting them is the same as 209s except they will not sit flush. The rim will
protrude so it can get crushed by your firing pin. You can use a 1/4in drill bit to
ream the hole if needed.

-Next we’ll load our powder (This step is not needed with ramsets). Remember, start
small. Measure out your powder in a volumetric measurer and add it to the shell. Try to
get all of the powder into the powder cup. You don’t want accidental ignition from the
friction of inserting the round.

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-Depending on the shell you use and powder amount, you might not fill the entire
powder cup. For this we use wadding, usually toilet paper or something similar. The
goal is to keep the powder together and not shaking around in the shell. This helps with
efficiency of your round. You’ll ball up the TP (1/2 Square should work) and place it on
top of the powder.

-This next step is probably the most important for round performance: The Seal. Next
we will be creating the seal around the projectile. We can accomplish this one of a few
ways. If your print tolerances are good, the shell may naturally seal it self. You can tell
when you get some resistance when inserting the projectile. Some like to use Electrical
or Mono-Filament Tape. The goal here is to add enough wraps (Usually 1 or 2) to
achieve a rather snug fit withing the case. If you're struggling to get good performance,
give hot glue a try.

You now have a completed shell!

Remember standard gun safeties apply!

25
 Chapter 5
Conclusion
This guide is not the end-all be-all. The beauty of printed
ammunition is that it is only limited by the imagination of the
builder.

We cannot stress enough that energetic materials are not to be taken

lightly. Please maintain a level of respect on your launcher
endeavors.

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