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( Pt.2: Design by DAVID WHITBY
Last month, we gave some of the history of Nixie
tubes and described the design of the NX14 clock and
its circuit. This month, we give the assembly details
and describe the optional blue LED up-lighting which
we think that most constructors will definitely want,
together with the attractive see-through Perspex case.
ir two current limit
hi
x 60mm,
The upper PCboard is coded NX14U.
and holds the six Nixies and their
id current limiting 1
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Fig.1: install the parts on
‘wo PC boards and run the wiring connections as shown here to assemble your
Nixie clock, Note that the six blue LEDs for the optional up-lighting (ie, LEDs 1-6) are installed on the rear of
the top board - see photo. Switch S1 and the 1F supercap
¢ installed on the rear of the bottom board,
fas bridged tracks or blocked plated-
through holes, begin by installing all
17 resistors in the board
Before soldering the resistors and
cutting their pigtails, double check
thal you have the right values in the
right holes. If you are unsure of any of
the resistor values, double check them
with adigital multimeteras the colour
codes can be difficult to read
Next, install the three diodes and the
zener diode. These are all different, so
take care to place them in the correct
positions and with the right polarity.
D3 (1N4148 or 1N914) and ZD1 will be
inssmall glass packages while the other
twoare in black plastic encapsulation
‘These might look the same but they are
siliconchip.com.au
not! D1 is acommon 1N4007 1A power
diode while D2 is a UF4004 1A high
speed switching diode, for the high
frequency HT power supply. Make
sure you read the labelling before you
install them. Ifyou get these mixed up
the HT supply may not work at all or
it might got very hot.
The three small plastic TO92 tran-
sistors can go in next and once again,
these are three different types so take
caro to place each of them in their
correct positions. It is particularly
easy to mix up Q46 and Q47 which
are mounted next to each other in the
HT supply area, Q46 is a BC397 and
{goes nearest to the edge of the PC board
‘while Q47 is a BC327 which goos next
to it but faces the other way.
Don't fit Qa5 at this stage. It's
the same type as used on the upper
PC board; it could be a 2N0517 or
MPSA4z or MPSA44. Similarly, the
only other transistor ((Q48 ~ IRF740
power Mosfet) is not installed at the
moment. This disables the “bitey” HT
generator until after the clock DG sup-
plies and circuitry are tested, It’s not
good idea to have 200-280V around
while testing the CMOS clock circuitry
and handling the board!
Next, fit the small non-polarised
capacitors. Those are the three small
rectangular MKT capacitors (Ink, 47nF
and 100nF) and asmall 100pF ce
capacitor near the crystal oscillator (IC.
AuGusT 2007 73Pe es
bee
Coa
7), They're all fairly straightforward —
all you have to do is to get each value
in right place.
Next, fit the oscillator trimmer
capacitor, VC1. It’s not polarised but
should be installed with its metal
screw slot going to OY, for stable ad:
justment with a metal tool. ‘he last of
the small components are the small
32.7 68kHz watch crystal (X1) and the
two test-point pins behind IC7.
Now install the larger component
‘arting with the diode rectifier bridge
(BR1), Take care to match the markings
with the PC board component overlay.
Install the power socket (CON 1) and
74 Siuicon CrP
Take car
switches $1, $2 and $3, making sure
that they are all pushed all the way
into the board before soldering. Th
fit the four electrolytic capacitors
which are polarised and must go the
right way around.
The CMOS ICs can go in next, start-
ing with tho six 4017s (ICs 1-6), the
4060 (IC7) and the 4013 (IC). Double-
check the orientation of the ICs before
Note that IC7 and IC8 face in
the opposite direction to IGs1-6
Sovers not sol
dered in until the main power supply
Istested. These are the MC34063 (ICO),
1, the 1F supercap, $1 (the blue LED
solderin
‘omponents aro
‘The lower board carries the power supply, crystal
oscillator and all the dividing/counting circuits.
to ensure that all polarised parts are
correctly oriented.
switch) and the previously mentioned
Que.
Testing the lower board
Itdoesn't matter ityou dothis before
or after you assemble the upper PC.
board. After thoroughly checking the
board to ensure that you have every-
thing in the right place, connect the
lead from the 10V AC plugpack into
the powersocketon the
done, measure the DC
the OV test pin and the “+’
rectifior BR1. This should be
between 11V and 14VDC, depending
on the AG mains voltage.
‘The underside of the lower board carries
switch S1 and the 1F supercap.
i)
5
>
amy
bor
ey
siliconchip.com.au‘The upper board
carries the six Nixie
‘tubes, the two Neons
and the 44 segment
Griver transistors.
Make sure the Nixie
tubes are seated
correctly before
soldering their leads,
Next, check the voltage between
OV and pin 16 of IC7 ~ it should be
between 5.4V and 5.5V. Ifall is OK so
far, check that the crystal oscillator is
working. IF you have an oscilloscope or
frequency counter, look for 32.765kHz
at the test point. Otherwis
multimeter. look for 2Hz,(5V) on pin
3 of IG? or 1Hz.on pin 13 of IC8 (on an
analog meter you can see the pointer
flicking at these rates). This will con-
firm that all is well up to the input of
the clock counter/dlivider chain,
Ifyou do have a frequency counter
this would be a good time to sot th
oscillator to exactly 32.768kHez
The only simple way to test the
counting/dividing circuitry is with the
display in the finished clock so now
you can fit the remainder of the HT
supply components ~ ie, IC9, 1, the
1F supereap, $1 (the blue LED switch)
and Q48
The HT supply
With the HT components installed,
wire the supplied coloured leads to
the board. A 22kQ 3W test resistor
will be supplied in the kit to make
tosting the HT supply safer. Connect
this temporarily between the red HT
wire and the blue OV wire,
Be careful: the HT is around 220-
230V DC! This can give you a strong
shock if you come into contact with
, so don't handle or work on the
project when the plugpack is con-
nected to the PC board. Wait at loast
two minutes after disconnecting the
siliconchip.com.au
power for the 4.711F 250V capacitor to
discharge bofore handling or working
on the board.
So having taken all care, connect the
power and measure the HT voltage. It
should be between 200V and 230V DC
across the 22k0 test resistor. If all is
well, then remove the power, wait two
minutes and fit the 1F supercap and
the blue LED switch S1 (ifrequired) to
the undorside of the PC board.
‘The 1F supercap is polarised, so
take care to getit the right way around.
The markings are sometimes not ob-
vious ~ the negative lead is the one
that is folded over from the metallic
patterned side of the capacitor. A self
adhesive pad will be supplied with the
supercap for insulation and spacing
Its terminal pins need to be soldered
on the underside of the PC board,
Si, the blue LED switch, is also
mounted under the PC board but sol-
dered from the top side.
‘This completes the construction of
{1] Complete NX-14 kit wth frished meta
baseplate (does not include housing or blue
ED upleting components: $179.0.
(2} Diecast aluminium housing: $33.00
in plain Fish ready fr polishing or panting,
$545.00 supplied powder coated (shoji whit)
(3) Transparent polished Perspex
housing: $64.06.
(4) Blue LED uplighting kt: $19.00.
(6) 10V AC plugpack supply: $14.50,
the lower PC board so now let's move
on to the upper PG board.
The upper PC board
Asbefore, solder in the resistors first
‘There are six 68KE2 1W, two 330K 1W
and two 1800 0.25W resistors (if the
blue LEDs aro used). Incidentally, the
1W resistors are used not because we
need their power rating but because
of their higher voltage rating (the HT
can exceed the voltage rating of lower
‘wattage types)
After the resistors, fit the 44 high
voltage transistors, which may be
2N6517 or MPSA42 or MPSA44 types.
All have the same pinouts and all
mount with their lat side parallel with
the righthand edge of the PC board.
To make a neat job of fitting the
transistors use a piece of stif, flat shoot
material such as cardboard, larger than
the PC board and temporary spacers
made from two 3mm x 8min scrows
and nuts (supplied in the kit). Fit
(8) Sartor esi or 12 0¢ pron:
4.50
Spare 1N14 Nixie tubes:
The NK14 Nate Clocks also avalble uly
buit and ested. Erqures to: Ges Aco,
7 Lyonsile Ave, Preston, Vc 3072. Phone
{03} 9442 3991; 0403 065 374, Ena
glesstron@msn.com
Note: the PC board patterns fortis
project are copyright to Gless Audio,
Avevsr 2007755
“The top and bottom boards are fastened together via 25mm spacers, with the 44 27KO resistors strung between
them, The bottom board sits on 10mm spacers.
the screws from under the PG board
through the two mounting holes clos:
est to the Nixie tubes and fasten with
the nuts, Place all the transistors as far
as they will go into the PC board in the
irection shown on the component
overlay and using the flat sheet to hold
all the transistors into the PC board,
flip the PC board and sheet over so that
the board is upside-down, supported
by all the transistors and the spacer
screws, Carefully solder one outer lead
on each transistor and then you'll be
able to lift up the PC board without
any transistors falling out.
Straighten any wonky transistors
before finishing the soldering and
cutting their excess pigtails. Then re-
move the temporary screws and nuts
(the 3mm screws are used in the final
assembly)
You can now fit the two noon tubes
to their appropriate positions on the
board (N1 and N2). Their height above
the board is up to you but as they
represent full stops around the bot
tom of the Nixie digits, they should
be nounted about 8-10mrn above the
surface of the PC board
Neons are not polarised but do
operate from a high enough voltage
to warrant short lengths of spaghetti
76 SiicoN CHP
insulation over the wires feeding down
tothe PC board, At short lengths, their
wires are more than strong enough to
have them stand up without any other
support.
Fitting the Nixie tubes
A significant part of the visual ap-
peal of the clock is the alignment of
the Nixiotubes themselves. Having six
Nixies at different heights and/or an-
gles certainly would ruin the impact.
First though, you have to get the Nixie
‘wires into their respective holes. That
might seem easy but in fact, it's quite
difficult. The bost method involves
cutting the leads first
First straighten the leads as best
you can and then locate the anode
lead. This has @ grey/white coating
on it, inside the glass envelope. Hold
the tube with leads facing you. Leave
the anode lead uncut and then go-
ing clockwise, cut each lead 3-4 mm
shorter than the ono before it until
you have cut 12 leads, The result will
be a spiral pattern of ever decreasing
lead length
Now fit the tube to the PC board
by inserting the anode lead (the long-
est) into the hole marked 1, which is
closest to the resistors. You can ther
simply push the tube down allttlo un-
til the next lead reaches the PC board
surface and place that in the next hole.
Continue working around until all the
leads are in. This method also works
ly if the white plastic bases have
come offany of the Nixies (you'll need
to put the base back on before putting
the Nixie on the PC board!)
hen the tube is in place, hold it
firmly down onto the PC board surface
and as vertical and straight as possible
bofore soldering the leads. Solder the
anode lead and one directly opposite it
first, check that the tube is still vertical
and then solder another two at right
angles to the first. Don't solder any
‘more until all the tubes are inserted
and soldered the same way.
Now check the tubes for alignmon
with the PC board and with each other.
With only four leads of each Nixie tube
soldered so far, itis easy to straighten
the tubes by unsoldering the appropri-
ale lead and then gently adjusting tho
tube position by hand. When all tubes
are correctly lined up, your can solder
the rest of the leads.
Fitting the blue LEDs
‘Tho blue LEDs are optional but they
give the Nixie clock real charactor
siliconchip.com.auThis rear view of the unit shows the three pushbutton time-setting switches, the DC power socket and the on/off
‘switch for the optional LED uplighting.
LEDs poke up through the upper PC
board from underneath, through the
white Nixio bases (which have been
drilled to suit) and rest against the bot
tom of the Nixie tubes themselves.
The LED leads are bent into a very
broad “U" shape as shown in the pho:
tos and the leads are soldered to the
copper side of the PC board, Beca
they clear the board by 2mm or so,
we didn’t bothor insulating the loads,
except those which go above inductor
Li. Here we used some short lengths
p insulation.
The LEDs are a friction Ait inside the
white Nixie bases so no further support
is required
tic wi
Inter-board connections
Apart from the 44 resistors connect-
ing the two boards together, there are
four PC board inter-connecting wires
to be soldered into place. The LED
power wires (Iwo of them) connect
to the bottom board next to the LED
switch and to the top board at the
back right corner (see the component
overlay). These must be long enough
to allow comfortable soldering while
the two boards are still disassembled
~say about 80mm long,
The other two wires, marked
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“CONT” and “HT
shorter but must also be long
to solder, The “CO!
jomm long, the “HT” wire
about 70mm,
The two PC
together using four 25mm hexagonal
ss which have male (external
thread) and female (internal thread)
ends, The female end goes towards the
top PC board and is held in place by
on the overlay, are
nough
wire can be
boards are fastened
Peony
tube are cut into a spiral
Prrroirerey ed
ome sons
‘one into the PC board.
‘a. 3mm round-head screw, while the
male end passes through the bottom PC
board, where an 8mm internal thread
spacer screws onto it, The lower end
of this 8mm spacer sits on the clock
case bottom and is held in place by a
3mm countersunk-head screw from
the outside of the caso. Don't put the
case bottom on just yet because you
need to solder the resistors in place.
Make sure that the upper board is
ust 200777Here's how the optional blue LEDs are fitted to provide the up!
LED leads clear of the Nixie tube solder joints and be sure to insulate the two
wing ~ see text,
leads shown with plastic sh
oriented so that the Nixie tubes are
jowards the buck and the two rows of
transistors are towards the front. Ori-
entation of the lower PC board is moro
obvious — the switchos and power
socket are all toward the rear, This
‘means that the resistor holes on the
edge of the upper board line up with
the row of slots on the lower board.
Now you get to solder the row of
44 27k metal film resistors between
the two boards, It is not as hard as it
Tooks due to the slot and hole design
on the PC boards
If you are
Perspex case for the clock, take extra
care and get the row of resistors as
using the transparent
are fitted with short lengths of spaghetti insulation to insulate their lead:
78 Sic
ing. Keep the
straight as you can and all in line for
best appearance, Start at one end with
the first resistor, by feeding one lead
up into the end hole from under the
upper PC board.
That done, contralise the resistor
between the boards and solder it in
place on the top board, from above
Drop the other resistor lead into the
slot on the lower board then bend the
ead down over the board and solder
and cut it. Using the first resistor as @
guide for position, continue to fit and
solder all the other resistors in the
That completes the electronic as-
sembly of tho clock. All that’s left
is to scrow it to the base with 3mm
countersunk head screws and after
testing, fit the case according to the
supplied instructions.
Separating the boards
Ifyou havea problom and you need
to check or change any of the com-
ponents on either PC board simply
Tomove tho screws from the upper PC
board and gently open out the boards
until tho components are accessible.
Time-setting
The three time-setting buttons at the
rear of the lower PC board are: left
stop, centre (S3) slow and right
fast. If you overshoot by a little when
iting the time, the Stop button can
frecze the display until the moment
itis correct: se
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