Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

AtHENS
“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.”
The New York Times

June - July 2010

Festival season
Everything worth seeing
while in Athens
World Cup
Watch it with our guide
Athens beaches
A tram ride to the Med
N°14 - €2 Greek Islands
inyourpocket.com Top 10
 Contents 3

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents
The Basics

Available in selected stores

Facts, habits, attitudes 8

History
A few thousand years in two pages 12

Districts of Athens
Be seen in the right places 14

World Cup 2010

Our guide to follow the action 20

Greek Islands

www.kourbelaioanna.gr
E info@kourbelaioanna.gr
Our Top 10 24 A stray dog enjoying a refreshing shower
Culture & Events
What’s on 28 Dining & Nightlife
Restaurants
Where to stay How to avoid eating like a ‘tourist’ 40
5* or hostels, the best is here for you 32
Cafés
Join the ‘frappé’ nation 52

Nightlife
Exclusive Retail Store :

12 Hatzimihali str., Plaka One of the main reasons you’re here! 54

T +30 210 32 24 591

109 Adrianou str. &

Gay Athens 62
105 58 - ATHENS

Sightseeing
Monuments and Archaeological Sites 64

Acropolis Museum 66

Museums 68
86 Alimountos str., Argiroupoli

Historic Buildings 72
P. KOURBELAS & CO

T +30 210 99 42 731

Getting Around
164 51 - ΑTHENS

Airplanes, boats and trains 79

Head Office :

Shopping 83

Directory 86

Maps & Index

Metro map 89
City map 90
Index 98
Evzonas outside the presidential palace

athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

4 Foreword
The price Greeks have to pay for the rescue of the
country’s economy from bankrupty by the IMF and Europe In Your Pocket
the EU is a violent drop in their living standards, that
only months ago was unthinkable.
Angry crowds take it to the streets almost weekly
and the images travel the world. In early May, one
of these demonstrations turned violent and three
bank employees tragically lost their lives following a
murderous arson attack on the branch where they
worked. This is naturally the bread and butter of
the international media that were quick to portray
Athens as a war zone for the second time in two
years.
As we have said before, it is not our job to try and
repair the damage to the capital’s image and we
feel it is not necessary either, as we know that In
Your Pocker readers are smart and well informed
travelers who are not deterred by the media
hysteria. But he truth is, that for all the current
gloom and uncertainty among the local population,
Athens is still one of the safest European capitals
for both its residents and visitors. Particularly at
this time of the year you have a million reasons
to visit it: All sorts of festivals and performances,
stunning beaches, buzzing nightlife and the usual
overdose of culture and history are only a few. In Your Pocket is once again set to break new
As always we have tried our best to help you ground. Fresh from bringing you the most up-to-date
discover and enjoy them. Put this guide in your city guides around, we have recently gone Dutch
pocket and let summer Athens unfold before you. with a move into the Netherlands. The first issue of
’s-Hertogenbosch (Den Bosch) In Your Pocket
is currently in the latter stages of preparation, and
will appear soon. To be amongst the first to find out
Cover story when the ’s-Hertogenbosch guide is published, and
to keep up with all In Your Pocket news and events,
Seagulls love to escort departing become a fan of In Your Pocket on Facebook (fa-
ferries from the harbour of Piraeus. cebook.com/inyourpocket) and follow us on Twitter
Sometimes they fly so close that the (twitter.com/inyourpocket). We welcome enquiries
passengers on the deck can almost from anyone who would like to start up an IYP. Send
touch them. us an email requesting more info: the address is
© VK publisher@inyourpocket.com.

Editorial Copyright notice

Publisher Fotis Georgeles Text and photos copyright Athens Pocket
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Managing Editor Vangelis Koronakis Ltd 2008-2010. Maps copyright Road
Contributors Mandi Millen, Stephanie Editions. All rights reserved. No part of
Bailey this publication may be reproduced in
Athens In Your Pocket Layout & Design AIYP creative studio any form, except brief extracts for the
Harilaou Trikoupi 22 purpose of its review, without written
Photography © Athens IYP - VK permission from the publisher and
106 79 Athens Maps © Road Editions
Greece copyright owner. The trademark In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB
tel. (+30) 210 3316196 In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
e-mail: athens@inyourpocket.com fax (+30) 210 3316195 Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
www.inyourpocket.com Editor’s note
www.inyourpocket.gr Sales & Circulation
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
Advertising Director Louisa Nathanail guides is independent from paid-for
Advertising Mgr Nikos Tsouanatos advertising. Sponsored listings are
ISSN 1791-4558 Direct Market Mgr Vassilis clearly marked as such. We welcome all
© Athens In Your Pocket Zarkadoulas readers‘ comments and suggestions.
Financial Director Efi Mourtzi We have made every effort to ensure
Published 6 times per year the accuracy of the information at the
This issue: 20,000 copies tel. (+30) 210 3617530 time of going to press and assume no
fax (+30) 210 3617310 responsibility for changes and errors.

Athens In Your Pocket

6 Arriving in Athens
Discover a World of Culture
Arriving by boat
Message from the Mayor
From Italy to Patras: There are many connections across
and Technology at Fnac!
Dear visitors, the Adriatic Sea and a few ferry companies operate bet-
ween the Italian ports of Brindisi and Ancona and the port
I welcome you to our city, of Patras.
the city of myth and reality, If you have your own car, take the road to Korinthos and
the city of history and vi- then on to Athens (220 km). Be extremely careful as this
sion, the City of Athens. poor excuse for a national road is very dangerous and
accidents happen very often. If you‘re traveling without a
The glorious Athens of an- car take the intercity bus (KTEL) to Athens central station
tiquity is becoming one (single €17.20).
with the Athens of con-
temporary achievements From the islands to Piraeus: If you arrive in Piraeus by
and quality, and invites the boat, chances are that you‘ll disembark within walking dis-
entire world to view the Greek capital not only tance of the metro terminal where you can get the metro to
through the windows of culture and history, but the city centre. If you are too far (i.e. the cruise liners’ dock)
also entertainment, gastronomy and shopping. or your luggage is too heavy, there is a free bus service that BOOKS
Take the time to truly discover Athens – preferably runs inside the harbour. Try to avoid taxis but if it is neces-
on foot. Familiarise yourselves with the beauty of sary to use one, then pick one up from the street outside
its landscape and the warmth of its people. the harbour area.

So, together with the citizens of Athens, I welcome Arriving by train

all of you to the city where the word “foreigner”
means “guest”. I am confident your stay will forge There are daily international trains from Sofia, Bucharest,
unforgettable memories inspired by the beauty Istanbul and Belgrade to Thessaloniki, where you have to PC & MOBILE PHONES
of culture, eternal values, history and modern- change to the intercity train to the capital. This takes about
day accomplishments, and that we will see you 5 hours and is very comfortable, reliable and frequent (refer
again soon. to our ‘getting around’ pages).

However, a sleeping car coming from Sofia is attached to

Nikitas Kaklamanis the night train from Thessaloniki to Athens, so if you are the CD-DVD
Mayor of Athens romantic type and in no rush, the Sofia-Athens international
rail journey is an option. Finally for the really adventurous
rail lovers, Russian and Ukranian railways operate direct
services from Moscow and Kyiv to Thessaloniki but only
during the summer.
Arriving by air
DIGITAL CAMERAS
Eleftherios Venizelos Athens International Airport City of Athens Info-Points & TVS
The primary entry into Athens is its new airport, situated 27
km (16.8 miles) east of Athens. To get to town you have a
choice between metro, suburban railway, bus, taxi and, of
course, car hire.

Metro is probably the best option (40 minutes to the cen- VIDEOGAMES
tre of Athens). However, the construction of new stations
along the line has caused the suspension of the service
for six months.
Suburban railway-Proastiakos (running every 30 min-
utes) will take you to Nerantziotissa station, where you
must change to enter the metro system. Tickets cost €6
for a single ride (€10 for two and €15 for three persons
traveling together). The city of Athens has introduced two Info-Points to
The bus ticket costs €3.20 and will take you to the follow- welcome visitors. Trained staff are ready to answer all PRINT yOuR MEMORIES
ing destinations: Bus X92 to Kifisia, Bus X93 to the central your questions and provide information and guidance.
intercity bus station, Bus X94 to Ethniki Amyna metro sta-
AT FNAC
The first Info-Point is located inside the Eleftherios
tion, Bus X95 to Syntagma Square, Bus X96 to Piraeus & Venizelos airport arrival hall and the second inside the
10x15=0,29€ | 15x20=0,59€
the harbour and Bus X97 to Dafni metro station. Public department store, right on the central Syntagma
All the above except Bus X94 run 24hrs. square.
Indicatively, it takes about 45 minutes to get to Syntagma This second point also serves as a “Breathtaking” store, athens City Centre
Square by bus, but that of course depends on the traffic. an outlet for the new line of Athens branded souvenirs Fnac Monastiraki: 80 Mitropoleos & Aiolou str. (Metro Station: Monastiraki)
You can always pick up a taxi which costs about €30 du- produced by a top Greek designer.
ring daytime and €40-45 between 00:00 and 05:00 (but Fnac Marousi: The Mall Athens, 35 Andrea Papandreou str. (Train Station: Neragiotissa)
refer to our taxi advice). The Athens Tourism and Economic Development Com- Fnac Glyfadα: 4 Saki Karagiorga & Lazaraki str. (Tram Station: Palaio Dimarhio)
Finally, all major car rental companies keep desks inside pany has also launced two functional and informative opening hours: Mon-Fri 9.00-21.00 | sat 9.00-20.00 | Free-of-charge call: 800 800 5050
the airport building. An array of shops and services is websites packed with information about the city. Check
available at the airport such as a post office, banks, news- them out at: www.breathtakingathens.com & www.
stands, cafés, even an airport museum. athensconventionbureau.gr ValiD only For The aThens CiTy CenTre sTore
special at Fnac Monastiraki, along with every purchase you will receive a great offer!
offer! simply show this coupon to the cashier.
Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com
8 BAsiCs
Facts & Figures Time
Official country name: Hellenic Republic
Population: (2001 census) 10.9 million Greece is in the Eastern European Time zone (EET):
Total territory: 131,944 sq km (51,458 sq mi) GMT +2 hours. Between the last Sunday of March and
Athens population: 3.8 million the last Sunday of October Greece is in the Eastern
Religion: 98% Greek Orthodox, 1.5% Muslim European Summer Time Zone (EEST): GMT +3 hours
Political system: Parliamentary democracy
GDP per capita: $ 32,000 (2009)
Inflation rate: 3.9 % (Mar) Breathtaking Athens
Unemployment rate: 12.1% (Feb)
Highest point: Mount Olympus 2,917m Customs
Length of coastline: 15,021 km There are no restrictions placed upon incoming travelers
from other E.U. countries (with the exception of tobacco and
alcohol products, which are restricted to amounts corres-
Alcohol ponding to individual personal use only, i.e. 800 cigarettes
and 10lt of strong spirits per visitor).
Greeks tend to drink on social occasions and you will rarely If you are arriving from non-EU countries, you are entitled to
witness scenes of extreme drunkenness in the streets or import products of a total value of €175. Animals must have
in bars, clubs etc. Alcohol is freely available 24 hours a day undergone all mandatory vaccinations and be equipped
even from kiosks in the streets. with passports. Strangely enough, you are not allowed to
The common beer brands dominating the market are any- import the following: drugs, weapons, nuclear or biological
thing but local: Amstel and Heineken boast a combined mar- substances, explosives, flammable gases, protected spe-
ket share of around 70%. However, over the last few years cies, animal products and pornographic material (as for this
many new Greek brands have been introduced into the mar- last category, you shouldn’t worry, as you’ll be able to find it
ket and are steadily gaining in popularity: Mythos and Alpha aplenty once you’re in the country)
are the most popular. Most other well-known international
brands are widely available.
Go easy on beer as most brands have an alcohol content
Disabled travellers
of five percent or higher. Greeks generally drink beer in the Unfortunately, Athens is not a Special Needs-friendly city.
summer months and usually as an accompaniment to their In fact, it is a disgrace that even the disabled residents
meals. of the city itself face a nightmare whenever they need to
Stick to beer or wine unless you are absolutely certain of leave their homes. Authorities try to make their lives easier
the quality of the spirits served. Some bar owners serve by constructing wheelchair and blind-person friendly pave-
cheap (methanol-based) spirit substitutes out of branded ments but, in practice, all these vital aids for the disabled
bottles and a great night out may end up in a miserable day are rendered useless by insensitive car and motorbike dri-

Take back hom

in bed nursing a nasty hangover. vers, who park their vehicles in every last inch of available
A visitor should not leave Athens without savouring Ouzo, space imaginable (including right in front of wheelchair ac-

e
the renowned Greek traditional spirit (together with scotch, cess ramps), making the life of even non-disabled pedestri-
to be sure) that is best enjoyed with seafood meals. Dilu- ans a living hell. Restaurants and public buildings are obliged
ted with water and ice, it becomes a lovely milky-coloured by law to offer easy access and specially adapted toilets for
a piece of
your favourite
aniseed-flavoured drink, but be warned: it will give you the the disabled, but then again, laws are there to be broken...
worst hangover of your life if you consume it in excess.
Drugs
city!
Mastiha is another pleasant, sweet-tasting spirit, made
with the resin of the Mastic tree and is an exclusive product
of Chios island. All drugs are illegal in Greece and there is a strict zero-
Finally, Greece produces a plethora of international and local tolerance policy. However, smoking hash/cannabis does Available in the
department sto
grape varieties, which make very good wines. Retsina is of happen among young (and not-so-young) Athenians, but re
course the most famous of these, with a pine resin flavour, they usually do so in the privacy of their homes. Take Karagiorgi Ser
vias st 1
Syntagma Sq
which is added during fermentation. It is, however, looked our word for it and don’t try to get your hands on dope. Tel. 210 324 621
0
down upon by modern-day Athenians, who don’t think of
it as classy enough for their refined taste buds: more of a
peasant or working class wine.
Climate
Bouzoukia
This is an exclusively Greek institution, which has evolved
to survive many decades of Athenian nightlife: Well-known
Greek singers perform live most nights in ‘bouzoukia’ night-
clubs and that’s where a visitor can get a first-hand experi-
ence of the truly local sense of fun. Although plate-smashing
is no longer en vogue, the heaps upon heaps of carnations
showered upon singers as they perform songs from the
local popular repertoire, the endless quantities of scotch
downed in a single night and, no less, the scantily dressed
young ladies dancing on the tables and singing along with
their favourite artists, all go a long way towards making this
a not-to-be-missed experience for any visitor.

Athens In Your Pocket

10 BAsiCs

Famous Greeks [12] Electricity

European style two pin sockets are used and electricity
comes at 230V 50Hz AC. Adaptors are available at most
hotels and electrical appliance shops, as well as at the
Airport shops.

Etiquette
Greeks like to think of themselves as a nation apart from all
the rest. They believe they are direct descendants of their
illustrious ancient forebears and they are very proud of their
history and past. They tend to think that the rest of the world,
although it revolves around them, is constantly conspiring
against them and never understands them.
If you avoid questioning the...obvious correctness of these
views, most Greeks will lean over backwards to please you
as a guest. If you go out to dinner with locals, there is no way
you will be allowed to pay your share of the bill and if they ask
you to stay over at their house, they will in all likelihood offer
you their own bed, in order to make you feel as comfortable
as possible. This is known as ‘filotimo’, a Greek word without
an exact equivalent in English, meaning something between
a sense of honour, dignity and pride and is a highly-praised
virtue in Greek society

Health & Safety

Dimitri Mitropoulos 1896 - 1960 Athens is a polluted city but has come a long way since the
eighties. New technology cars and buses and the transfer
Dimitri Mitropoulos is remembered as a gifted musician, of all heavy industries outside city limits have reduced emis-
composer, conductor and champion of modern music, sions to a bearable level for a city of its size. Depending on
known for having composed both orchestra pieces as atmospheric conditions though, you may still get the odd
well as piano solos, having arranged a selection of Jo- smoggy day and feel like you just woke up in Mexico City!
hann Sebastian Bach’s organ works for orchestra, as well There are no widespread infectious diseases that should be
as supporting contemporary composers Ernst Krenek, of concern to the visitor and no vaccinations are required
Roger Sessions, Peter Mennin and legendary Viennese prior to your visit. Greece has a relatively low (but steadily and
composer Gustav Mahler. Known for a photographic alarmingly rising) level of HIV infections. Complacency among
memory that allowed him to work without sheet music, young people leads the authorities to run awareness-raising
Mitropoulos was a progressive mind, broadening clas- campaigns every so often.
sical music’s reach through televised performances and Tap water is chlorinated and perfectly safe. Or so the public
weekly performances at New York’s iconic cinema, Roxy water company says. If you prefer bottled mineral water
Theatre, during his lifetime. you can buy it everywhere cheap. Its street price is strictly
Considering he was born into a non-musical family regulated (50c for a half litre bottle and 1 Euro for a 1.5 litre
involved in the leather goods trade, Mitropoulos’ career bottle) as it is considered an essential amenity during the
is an extraordinary one. Cleary enamoured by music, he long hot summers.
was educated in Athens, Brussels and later Berlin, where Athens is one of the safest European capitals (then again,
he assisted Erich Kleiber from 1921 at the Berlin State most guides for most capitals tend to claim the same). But
Orchestra. In 1924 he returned to Athens to become here we actually mean it. The good old cliché ‘if you don’t go
assistant conductor of the orchestra of the Hellenic looking for trouble you’ll be perfectly fine’ applies here too.
Conservatory. Petty crime does exist, but if you avoid certain areas, such as
Mitropoulos’ passion for music was evident from a young the backstreets around Omonia and Vathis Squares, espe-
age - it is said that as a secondary school student, he cially as a sole traveler, and keep an eye on your belongings,
would gather fellow musicians on Saturday afternoons your stay in Athens will be trouble-free.
to play, discuss and experience music. Perhaps this is Women traveling alone may encounter the Mediterranean
what made Mitropoulos a natural conductor. In 1936, temperament of some local men but this rarely goes beyond
he became the first modern musician to have played a stare or a whistle.
a solo and conducted an orchestra at the same time Finally, you will definitely get thrown out of a bar if you get
when he performed Prokofiev’s Piano Concerto No.3 plastered and cause trouble.But that’s fair enough, isn’t it?
while conducting the Boston Symphony Orchestra from
his keyboard as a guest. Two years later, he became
the principal conductor of the Minneapolis Symphony Metro
Orchestra, now known as the Minnesota Orchestra, It was finally constructed about a century after most of its
where he remained until 1949. European counterparts, but for that same reason, Athens
He died in Milan at the age of 64, while rehearsing Gustav has one of the most luxurious and squeaky clean metro
Mahler’s 3rd Symphony. systems in Europe. It only has two lines (plus a pre-existing
one which runs over-ground) but its stations are lined with
marble and granite and are generously and tastefully adorned
*More famous Greeks to read online: www.inyourpocket.com with artworks and replicas of ancient objects (in some cases,
even showcasing original archaeological material). visit: www.kosovo-young.com
Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com
12 BAsiCs BAsiCs 13

Money Olympic Games Stray dogs

Greece adopted the Euro currency on January 2, 2002.
Prices soared as a result of the conversion, a fact which still
Police emergency tel. 100 After being refused the centenary modern Olympics of 1996,
Athens was finally awarded the Games of 2004. Against all
Athens’ streets are littered with thousands of stray dogs,
a fact that, according to animal welfare organisations, con-
ranks high as a favourite (and heated) topic of discussion
among Greeks, usually embarked upon when presented
Ambulance tel. 166 international media odds, who worked overtime for their
respective governments, each outbidding the next in their
stitutes bad publicity for the city. The truth is, however, that
many of these animals are not abandoned in the streets but
are actually born there and live in neighbourhoods where
with their restaurant bill and suddenly filled with nostalgia
for the good-old Drachma days.
Fire Service tel. 199 efforts to sell overpriced and useless security systems, the
city organised a wonderful and absolutely safe Olympiad people feed and water them on a daily basis. Just before
Major international credit cards are accepted everywhere and that filled all Greeks with a sense of national solidarity and the Olympic Games, most strays were rounded up by the
travelers’ cheques can be cashed-in at hotels and banks. pride - and rightly so. This was, surely enough, before they authorities, vaccinated and sterilised, only to be placed right
Roads & Driving were presented with the eight billion Euro bill, whereupon back in their natural habitat, the streets. Most of them wear
collars and are harmless and quite friendly.
Music piracy Athenian drivers are a lot safer and more disciplined than
everyone came to the conclusion that the Olympics are no
business for a small country like this one...
The country features in the black list of international anti-
piracy organisations. Friendly smiling Nigerians equipped
those of Cairo, Istanbul and probably Bucharest…
They do stop at red traffic lights most times, but that’s about Smoking: Banned again! Tipping
with stacks of pirate CDs and DVDs can be found roaming it. Like their Balkan counterparts, they strongly believe that Service charge is included in the bill in all restaurants and
every neighbourhood of the city. heavy traffic can magically disappear at the touch of their Smoking was officially banned in cafés but if you are pleased with the service it is customary
Athenians tend to spend a lot of money on pirate music (or horn. They have no respect whatsoever for pedestrians and Greece in July 2009. However, like ev- to leave a few euros on the table. Ten percent is considered
they did before they started downloading it for free). Add cycling is a sure way to eventually land yourself as a client erything else in this country, the ban generous; something around five percent is the most
to that the Greek judges’ sympathy for the young Nigerians of the National Health Service (and that’s the last thing you was not a simple blanket measure for common practice. Tipping is expected in most expensive
when the unsympathetic police take them to court and you want to do, take our word for it). all. Establishments over 70 sqm were hotels and taxi drivers will round up the amount themselves
have one furious music industry. As a result, legitimate music Athenian roads are not in the best of conditions and this is obliged to provide separate smoking when they give you the change, so you shouldn’t worry
prices have been slashed during the last few years and you exacerbated by the complete lack of coordination between rooms and owners of places under about this!
can now buy top-selling music from €5 (which is the same the different governmental departments and public utility 70 sqm were free to decide whether
theirs will be a smoking place or not!
as the price for a pirate copy!) companies that regularly carry out roadworks and drill into
city streets. It is not rare to witness the electricity or water The results were satisfactory in most Visas
working places, but in wonderful Greece, laws rarely get in the There is no visa requirement to enter Greece for citizens
company men drilling into a street that has just had a new- of the E.U., Australia, Canada, Iceland, Israel, Japan, New
way of people’s lives and most bars and many restaurants
The Greek alphabet asphalt layer applied only a week earlier!
Cars are allowed into the city-centre (areas marked with a completely ignored the new law which became redundant in Zealand, Norway, Switzerland and the US.
practice. This was the reason the government came back and For a full list of countries exempt from visa requirements for
“Greek Delta” sign and called ‘Daktylios’) every second day, up to 90 days visit you can consult the Greek Foreign Ministry
depending on their registration plates (odd number plates announced, as we were going to press, that from September
The Greek alphabet looks scary but once you learn 1 2010 there will be a universal ban in all public places with website at: www.ypex.gov.gr.
on odd calendar days and even number plates accordingly).
how to pronounce each letter and combination of This measure was introduced back in 1982, in order to tackle an eight month transitional period just for casinos and night-
letters you can actually read Greek! Just give it a the increasing traffic and pollution problems of the time and clubs. Until then, non-smokers’ lives shouldn’t be too hard as
few minutes and you’ll be surprised. has become completely outdated nowadays. in the summer everything happens outdoors. The Athens tel. code is +30 210
The traffic in the centre cannot get any worse and although
Αα alfa pronounced as in cat public transport keeps improving with the introduction of new
Ββ beta as in vino metro stations and tram lines, Athenians are so enamoured
Γγ gama as in yet
Δδ delta as in the
of their cars that only a total ban would improve traffic condi-
tions (and would then, with mathematical precision, lead to
Athens Portraits [11]
Εε epsilon as in set a full-scale revolt).
Ζζ zita as in zebra But since Greece has started being portrayed in inter-
Ηη ita as in six
Parking in the city centre is regulated Mon-Fri 09:00-21:00, Conspiracy Theorists national headlines as the wild child of Europe, recklessly
Sat 09:00-16:00 and is allowed only on white lines. The
Θθ theta as in theme ridiculously complicated pricing system is as follows: 50c for As he drives his cab through the city streets, Mitsos will tell spending money it doesn’t have, then asking others to bail
Ιι ghiota as in six the first half hour increasing by 50c for every subsequent half you who’s behind the crisis Greece is strug- it out, the conspiracy mill has gone into
Κκ kapa as in key hour and up to two hours (€2). For two and a half hours you gling to come to terms with. It’s THEM. overdrive.
Λλ lamda as in love have to pay €4 and for three hours, which is the maximum His friend, Kostas, agrees as he puffs Though many Greeks accept that the
Μμ mi as in man time allowed, €6. Blue lines are reserved for residents and furiously on his cigarette (so much more root of the problem lies within, there are
Νν ni as in new yellow ones for public services and retail professionals. expensive since recent tax hikes). It’s “the plenty who condemn outside forces who
Ξξ ksi as in text If you prefer to opt for something simpler, this comes at a others” he says, that want to bring a proud want to bring their proud nation down.
Οο omikron as in box price: Parking lots, over and under ground, are scattered people to their knees. Maybe it’s Wall Street trying to under-
Ππ pi as in power around the centre and start at €5 per hour up to a minimum A gaggle of students in brand-name train- mine the Euro? Or Corporate America
Ρρ rho as in run of €15 for a whole day. ers and jeans shout in agreement, and a determined to bash people into more
Σσ sigma as in sun worried looking housewife nods grimly as obedient consumerism? Or perhaps
Ττ tau as in tea she tries to work out if anything will be left Greece is the first stage in the imposition
Υυ
Φφ
ipsilon
fi
as in six
as in fun
National Holidays of her shrinking civil service salary after of a New World Order?
the bills are paid. Greeks hate being told what to do, so
Χχ chi as in hi Jan 1 New Year’s Day (Protochronia) As for Yiayia (Grandma), she blames the the conditions that come with the EU/
Ψψ psi as in tips Jan 6 Epiphany (Theofania) Turks – and the Germans. IMF rescue package are an anathema
Ωω omega as in box Feb 15 ( mov) Ash Monday (Kathari Deftera) You hear it everywhere: in cafeterias, on to them. They deeply resent being under
Mar 25 Independence (Ikosti Pempti Martiou) trains, droning out of radios perched on someone else’s supervision.
Note that ita (η), giota (ι), ipsilon (υ) as well as (ει) Apr 4 (mov) Easter Sunday (Pascha) workshop shelves, buzzing through Greek cyber-space: Perhaps the biggest conspiracy is the one no-one is talking
and (οι) are pronounced exactly the same. Apr 5 (mov) Easter Monday (Deftera Pascha) “They’re out to get us!” about. The conspiracy of silence that turned a blind eye to
(ο) and (ω)are pronounced the same too, May 1 Labour Day (Protomagia) the abuses of the system while society fed on the fruits of
(ου) is pronounced oo, (αι) is pronounced e, (ευ) is May 24 (mov) Holy Spirit Monday (Agiou Pnevmatos) Greeks love a good conspiracy theory. Perhaps it’s only capitalism, wearing American sports shoes, driving German
pronounced ev and (αυ) is pronounced av. Aug 15 Assumption of Virgin Mary (Dekapen- natural for a nation with resistance running through its cars, and cooled by Japanese air conditioning units.
Once you remember the above, you can (with a little tavgoustos) veins, after 400 years of Ottoman Rule and - more re- But Mitsos will certainly tell you: “Den ftaio ego” (“It’s not
practice) read everything written in Greek. As for Oct 28 1940 refusal to yield to the Axis cently - a military dictatorship that squashed resistance my fault”).
understanding...that’s a whole different story and will Dec 25 Christmas Day (Christougenna) with a heavy fist.
take some serious effort, practice and time. Dec 26 Boxing Day * More Athens portraits to read online: www.inyourpocket.com

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

14 history history 15

BC AD 1821: The Greek Revolution against Turkish occupation

c.3000BC: Evidence of human habitation at the foot of the 54: The Apostle Paul visits Athens and delivers the Sermon begins.
Acropolis hill in Athens. on Aeropagus Hill. 1827: The fleet of the mediating powers (France, Britain,
2700-1450BC: The Minoan Civilisation flourishes in Crete 150: Herod Atticus becomes governor of Athens, constructs Russia) destroys the Turkish fleet at Navarino. End of Otto-
and the Aegean, centred on the palaces at Knossos and the theatre at the foot of the Acropolis that bears his name. man Rule in Greece.
Phaestus in Crete, with trade relations with Egypt and 330: Constantine the Great transfers the capital of the Ro- 1830: Greek sovereignty recognised under the London
Syria. man Empire to Byzantium, which is renamed Constantinople. Protocol. Nauplion becomes the first capital of independent
1700-1100BC: Rise of the Mycenaean Civilisation. Myce- The Byzantine Empire is established. Before his death, Greece.
naean trade with Egypt and the Eastern Mediterranean. Suc- Constantine the Great establishes Christianity as the official 1831-1834: The assassination of the first governor of
cessive invasions of the Greek (Hellenic) Tribes: Achaeans, religion of the Byzantine Empire. Greece, Ioannis Kapodistrias, leads to the establishment of
Aeolians, Ionians and Dorians. A royal fortress is built on 529: Philosophical academies closed by Emperor Justinian monarchy by the foreign powers. Bavarian King Otto I arrives
the Athenian Acropolis. I, temples reconsecrated as Christian churches. in Greece and Athens is established as the new capital.
1200BC: Upon his return to the city after slaying the Mi- 1054: Schism between the Eastern Orthodox and (Western) 1838: The Royal Palace (now the House of Parliament) com-
notaur in Crete and rescuing Athenians held captive by King Roman Catholic Churches. pleted on Syntagma Square.
Minos, King Theseus unites the province of Attica with Athens 1204: Capture of Constantinople during the Fourth Crusade 1843: King Otto grants a constitution and representative
as its capital. Legend has it that he forgot to hoist the white by the Franks and Venetians. Assembly, following popular uprisings.
sail to show his father, Aegeus, that he survived. In his grief, 1453: Sultan Mohammed II captures Constantinople. End 1863: King Otto is dethroned and prince William of Denmark
the old man hurled himself to his death in the sea which was of the Byzantine Empire. is crowned King of Greece under the name George I. He brings
later named the Aegean after him. 1456: Capture of Athens by Omar. the Ionian islands as a coronation gift from Britain.
1100BC: The collapse of the Mycenaean Civilisation is fol- 1460-1715: Turks occupy all of Greece after continuous 1866: Cretan uprisings against the Ottomans lead to war
lowed by the Hellenic Dark Ages. Aeolian, Ionian and Dorian warfare with the Venetians. between Greece and Turkey.
Greek colonisation of Asia Minor. 1687: Venetians lay siege to Athens under Morosini. The 1877: Prime Minister Charilaos Trikoupis introduces mea-
c.1000BC: The city limits of Athens expand, construction Acropolis, which was used as a Turkish gunpowder store, is sures that limit the power of the monarchy to interfere in
of the first Agora. partially destroyed. democratic institutions.
8th century BC: Greeks found colonies around the Mediter- 1801: Lord Elgin removes Parthenon marbles to London. 1896: The first modern Olympic Games held in Athens.
ranean basin. Rise of aristocracies throughout Greece.
776BC: The first Olympic Games in history, held at Olympia, Plato and Aristotle in ‘The School of Athens’ by Raphael
mark the beginning of the Classical Greek period. 20th & 21st centuries
621BC: Dracon drafts strict new ‘draconian’ law code in
Athens. 461-429BC: Named by historians ‘The Golden Age’ of A-
1910: Cretan politician Eleftherios Venizelos is elected and the National Army supported by the British. After a
c.600BC: Athens wins Salamis from neighbouring Megara thens. During this period, Athens establishes the Athenian (or
prime minister of Greece. month of intense fighting, the guerrillas surrender.
and founds a colony, Sigeum, at the mouth of the Hel- Delian) League and takes control of a large number of Greek
1912: First Balkan War. Greece, Serbia, Montenegro and 1945: A period of persecution against anyone suspected
lespont. city-members of the League. Athens and its allies pursue an
Bulgaria fight against the Ottomans. Greece obtains parts as a communist drives thousands of people to the moun-
594-593BC: Archonship of Solon. First democratic reforms in offensive war against both the Persians and the Peloponne-
of Macedonia, Epirus and the north Aegean islands. tains.
Athens (cancellation of debts, replacement of birth by wealth sian League led by the Spartans. In 451BC, Athenians and
1913: Second Balkan War. Greece and Serbia fight against 1947: A guerrilla army is put together on the mountains by
as the criterion for office, creation of a people’s court). Spartans sign a five-year truce, which lasts until 446, where-
Bulgaria. Crete unites with Greece. the Communist Party and a bitter three-year civil war erupts.
566BC: First Panathenaic Games held in Athens to honour upon begins the period known as the ‘Thirty Year Peace’.
1914: King Constantine insists that Greece remains The Dodecanese islands are united with Greece, giving the
Athena, goddess of Wisdom and patron-goddess of the During this period, Athens reached the peak of its prosperity.
neutral during the First World War. Venizelos wants to enter country its final shape.
city. Democracy, science, philosophy, drama, architecture, scul-
the war on the side of the Allies. The King flees the country 1949: The National Army, with heavy support from the US,
561-560BC: Peisistratus seizes power and becomes pture, all flourished. The Parthenon, among other architectural
and Greece enters the war. drives back the guerrillas through the northern borders of
tyrant in Athens. masterpieces, is built between 447-437BC.
1919: The Allies award Venizelos, being on the winners’ side, Greece. More than 50,000 communists and their families
c.530 BC: New temple of Athena built on the Acropolis. 438BC: Large chryselephantine (gold-and-ivory) statue of
certain parts of Turkish and Bulgarian Thrace and the right become political refugees behind the Iron Curtain.
510BC: Hippias, the son of Peisistratus, is overthrown from Athena set up in the Parthenon.
to place troops in the area of Smyrna on the Turkish coast, 1952: Greece joins NATO.
the dictatorship in Athens with help from Sparta. Cleisthenes 431BC: The peace is broken with the onset of the Pelopon-
where a large and prosperous Greek population exists. 1962: Greece becomes the first associated member of the
takes charge in Athens. nesian War. Athens goes at war with Sparta once again.
1921: The Greek troops begin a massive campaign and European Community.
508-507BC: Democratic reforms of Cleisthenes in Athens 430-428BC: The plague decimates a quarter of the popula-
advance towards Ankara. 1967: A group of middle ranking army officers seize power
upheld by the ‘Ekklesia’ (public assembly of male Athenian tion of Athens, including Pericles.
1922: The resurgent Turkish army drives the Greeks back and a seven-year dictatorship begins. King Constantine II
citizens with the right to vote at public hearings and elect 415BC:Athenian expedition sails to Sicily under Alcibi-
to the coast and Smyrna is burnt down on August 31. More flees the country. Military junta led by Colonel Papadopoulos
magistrates). ades.
than a million Greeks abandon their homes and become rules Greece.
499BC: Beginning of the Persian wars with the revolt of 404BC: The end of the Peloponnesian war and Athens’ sur-
refugees on the Greek mainland. There follows a massive 1973: In November, an uprising of students in Athens against
the Ionian city-states against Darius. Athens sends a fleet render usher in Sparta’s hegemony in the Hellenic world. This
exchange of populations between Greece and Turkey, based the dictatorial regime, known as the Athens Polytechnic
in support of the Ionians. Darius pledges to avenge the is followed by a short period of Theban dominance.
on religious faith, under the Treaty of Lausanne. Uprising, is crushed with bullets and tanks.
Athenians. 360BC: Philip II is crowned king of Macedon and the period
1940: After occupying Albania, Italy demands the right of 1974: A coup in Cyprus results in Turkish invasion and oc-
490BC: The Athenians block the Persian invasion with their of the kingdom’s dominance begins.
passage through Greece. Greeks respond to the Italian cupation of the northern part of the island. Military regime
victory in the battle of Marathon. Legend has it that Pheidip- 356BC: Alexander the Great, son of Philip II, is born in
ultimatum with a single word, “No”, on October 28. Greek collapses in Athens. A Republic is proclaimed by referendum.
pides, an Athenian herald, ran from the battlefield back to Pella.
troops repel the Italian forces into the Albanian mountains, Presidential democracy adopted.
Athens to announce the triumph with the word ‘nenikikamen’ 336BC: Philip dies and Alexander succeeds him as King
advancing towards Albania during the winter. 1981: Greece becomes the tenth member of the European
(we won) and died on the spot. This story inspired the modern of Macedon.
1941: In April, Germany invades Greece and the country Community.
Marathon run. 334-323BC: Alexander is proclaimed King of all Hellenes
is occupied by German, Italian and Bulgarian forces. The 1985: Athens becomes Europe’s first Cultural Capital.
490-480BC: Extraction of silver ore from the mines at and embarks on the conquest of Persian lands, expanding
big famine of the winter of 1941 leaves more than 40,000 2002: Greece joins the Euro zone and abandons the
Laurion, used for minting the Athenian silver ‘owl’ coins that his empire as far as Egypt and India.
dead, mainly in Athens and other major cities. Greeks take to drachma after 167 years.
financed the expansion of Athens’ navy. 323BC: Alexander dies in Babylon and the Hellenistic
the mountains, form resistance groups and declare a ‘Free 2004: Greece successfully organises the Olympic Games.
480BC: King Leonidas of Sparta, vastly outnumbered by Period begins. Macedonia becomes dominant in the Hel-
Greece’ on the inaccessible mountainous mainland. 2009: Centre-left PASOK party wins the national elec-
the Persian army under Xerxes, falls with his warriors in the lenic World.
1944: The last Wermacht soldier departs from Athens on tions and Giorgos Papandreou becomes Grecce’s new
battle of Thermopylae. The Persians sack Athens but are 146BC: Greece becomes a province of the Roman Empire.
October 12. Greek and British troops enter the liberated Prime Minister.
badly defeated in the naval battle of Salamis. 86BC: Following Athens’ support to Mithridates, king of
capital. In December, fighting breaks out in the streets of 2010: Karolos Papoulias, is elected President of the
479BC: Persians defeated at Plataea. Rebuilding of Athens Pontus, Sulla attacks the city. Athens loses all political
Athens between communist supported resistance groups Republic for a second five year term.
begins, including the construction of Long Walls linking the influence and Corinth is established as the capital of the
city to the port of Piraeus. Roman province.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

16 distriCts oF Athens distriCts oF Athens 17

Plaka Psirri
Athens in two days D4 Bordered by Athinas, Ermou, Pireos, Evripidou
E5,E6,F6 Bordered by the Acropolis, Amalias and Streets. MMonastiraki, Thissio.
Mitropoleos Streets. MSyntagma, Monastiraki. This neighbourhood of narrow streets, workshops, ware-
This is what Athens has to offer as an old town, a district most houses and wholesale shops of every kind, established itself
visitors feel obliged (and rightly so) to pass through at least as the ‘Soho’ of Athens about fifteen years ago. (Since then,
once, but few Athenians visit for their entertainment needs. this title has been variously attributed to each new nightlife
Countless tourist shops, selling kitsch ancient replicas and hub that springs up in previously deprived areas). Count-
tasteless souvenirs and many moussaka-restaurants, less bars, clubs, theatres, restaurants and cafés catered
most dating back to the 1970s, give the visitor a cliched for mixed crowds but the area has been in a steady decline
and somehow false view of Athens. However, if you wander as a nightlife destination, as the masses started to move
off the beaten track, through its picturesque and serene elsewhere. The food is generally average, with some excep-
meandering streets leading up to the Acropolis, you can tions, and some bars sell spirits of a low quality disguised
discover a plethora of architectural gems giving a unique feel in branded bottles (colloquially called ‘bombs’). Restaurants
of the city at the beginning of the twentieth century, as well A view from the Acropolis AIYP
with live Greek music often charge higher prices than the
as discovering many small museums to keep you occupied
for hours. The old neighbourhood of ‘Anafiotica’ just under Thissio quality of their food justifies, but if you want to experience
dancing and singing the Greek way, do enter any of them on
the Acropolis rock will give you a déjà-vu of your last Greek B5,C5,C6 Bordered by Ermou Street, Philopappou Hill, a Saturday evening, or even better a Sunday afternoon.
island holiday, right in the centre of Athens. Ancient Agora, MThissio.
One of the oldest districts of Athens. The Acropolis towering
Day One (see map trail pg 78-79): Kolonaki above and its many neoclassical buildings preserve the aura Omonia Square
Start your day early in Syntagma Square. See the H4,H5,I5 Bordered by: Vassilisis Sofias, Akadimias of a bygone era. Walk around the Ancient Agora and Philopap- and the area west of Athinas & September 3rd
changing of the guard in front of the House of Parlia- Streets and Lycabettus hill.MSyntagma. pou hill, soak up the atmosphere of the cradle of western Streets. D2,D3,E2,E3 MOmonia.
ment (on the hour) and walk along Amalias Avenue. Anyone who is (or thinks he is) anyone, lives or hangs around civilisation, imagine Socrates conversing with his disciples on This central square is the Balkan face of Athens. Buzzing
Enter the National Gardens, pass Zappeion and head Kolonaki Square (Filikis Eterias Square). The Athenian élite of these very same grounds and attune yourself to the rhythm and ugly, gritty and colourful, its working class crowds
towards the Panathenaic Stadium. Walk down Vasilis- politicians, high profile journalists, actors, models and power- of life of modern city-dwellers sipping their indispensable
sis Olgas Avenue, pass Hadrian’s Arch and the Temple mingle with immigrants, street traders, lottery ticket sellers
ful businessmen, together with idle non-working residents ‘frappé’ (iced coffee the Greek way) at one of the countless and, occasionally, weird and suspicious figures. If you head
of Olympian Zeus and cross to Plaka. Allow yourself who spend their days in the numerous posh cafés and restau- outdoor cafés directly facing the Sacred Rock.
to wander around its picturesque meandering streets towards the back streets to the west of the square you’ll
rants, mingle, show off and decide the future of the country. find yourself in the Athenian version of a China town, where
and stop for a coffee at one of the numerous cafés.
All the expensive fashion boutiques are based here, and the
Walk along pedestrianised Dionisiou Areopagitou street,
climb the Acropolis hill and enjoy the pride of western
nightlife is designed to please the above-mentioned crowds, Makrigianni other predominant nationalities are Pakistanis and Africans.
A few surviving neoclassical buildings come as a welcome
civilisation. Once you’re done with the sacred rock head as well as visitors who come here from the rest of Athens to E7,E8 Bordered by the Acropolis, Philopappou hill, contrast to the concrete of the square, the looks of which
to the new Acropolis Museum before you stop for get a taste of the high life. Beach attire, large groups of lads Syngrou Ave. MAcropolis.A district overwhelmed by most Athenians hated as soon as it was reconstructed a
a late lunch-Greek style somewhere around Thissio and the matching attitude should be avoided, if you wish to sixties blocks of flats (like most of Athens of course) with few years ago.
station. Afternoon is time to visit Kerameikos with its pass through the strict ‘face control’ of the bouncers and some forgotten neoclassical treasures amongst them,
ancient cemetery, the Ancient Agora and the bustling spend a night among Athens’ ‘beautiful people’. Makrigianni hasn’t so far had very much to offer the visitor
and quaint Monastiraki Flea Market. Have an aperitif at except its proximity to the ancient monuments and some
tourist shops and restaurants. To be sure, this was the case
nearby Psirri district and round off the evening with a late
dinner accompanied by live Greek music, or head to Gazi Gazi until the New Acropolis Museum, the pride and joy of the
where you can combine dinner with late drinks. A4 Bordered by Pireos, Iera Odos, Konstantinoupoleos capital, finally opened its doors and thereafter transformed
Streets. M Kerameikos. the district into one of the foremost attractions for visitors
Day Two: The top nightlife hot spot of the capital, characterised by the and Athenians alike.
Begin the day at the top end of Ploutarchou Street in old factory that used to produce gas for lighting the streets
Kolonaki, from where you will board the scenic funicular and houses of the city many decades ago. Fortunately, the
(runs every half hour €6) or walk the lovely pine-lined Municipality of Athens preserved the old factory building Commercial triangle (Historic Centre)
pedestrianised path up Lycabettus hill (about 300m). and transformed it into the ‘Technopolis’ cultural centre
where concerts, exhibitions and festivals take place. With E4,E5,F4,F5 Bordered by Stadiou, Athinas and Ermou
Take in the breathtaking views of the Acropolis and the
the completion of Kerameikos metro station in 2007, the St. MMonastiraki, Syntagma, Panepistimio.
panorama of Athens and the Saronic Gulf sprawled
at your feet. Seize the opportunity to visit the historic area took off and it is now a top choice for entertainment A complex of narrow streets lined with shops selling every-
white-washed church of Saint George crowning the hill among young Athenians. A good number of gay bars and thing you can imagine, this is the traditional shopping heart
before taking the funicular back down. Make your way clubs have given the homosexual community of Athens a of the city. It used to be dead quiet in the evenings, but
to Panepistimio station and board the metro to Victoria, night-time destination, although one cannot describe Gazi when neighbouring Psirri started becoming saturated with
from where you will cross to the National Archaeologi- as a gay district. nightspots of all kinds, entertainment entrepreneurs took the
cal Museum. Allow at least two hours for your visit, be- opportunity to cross Athinas street and liven up this historic
part of the capital. The establishments in this area of town
fore stopping for a light lunch at the Museum restaurant
or at one of the numerous Bohemian establishments
Exarchia tend to maintain a certain individuality and character and
F2,G2,H2 Bordered by: Asklipiou, Akadimias, Patision target more selective audiences.
lining Exarchia Square. Board the metro to Syntagma
(October 28th) Streets. MOmonia.
station, where you will change to the Tram that will take
Neighbouring Kolonaki but at the exact opposite end of
you down to Athens’ southern coastal suburbs. Enjoy
your leisurely ride, taking in the golden sea views along the spectrum, this is the traditional alternative corner of Metaxourgio
the way. Get off at ‘Parko Flisvou’ stop in Paleo Faliro Athens inhabited by old Athenians and frequented by young B3,C3 Bordered by Pireos, Iera Odos, Achilleos Streets.
and walk along the seaside palm-lined esplanade, stop- Bohemian intellectuals, leftists, students, rockers and an- MKerameikos.
ping off for a coffee at one of the numerous cafés (we archists. The nightlife here is excellent, and as you’d expect This is the latest up and coming area of the capital, with
recommend a freddocinno!). Enjoy lounging at the beach a lot more relaxed and laid back. Nobody cares about what a new bar, restaurant or art venue appearing every few
before taking the Tram back to downtown Athens and you wear or who you are. The old days’ frequent riots are days. Like many other European cities, Athens is gradu-
rounding the day off with dinner somewhere around now rare (with the exeption of December 2008) but there is ally rediscovering its neglected and forsaken districts of
Monastiraki Station with its numerous lively live-music always a refreshing revolutionary feeling to make restless ill repute and transforming them into night-time hot spots.
establishments or, if posh dining is more up your street, minds feel at home. The shoddy brothels still operate here around the clock,
head to Kolonaki. but, at night, the fashionable crowds of the capital reclaim
athens.inyourpocket.com the neighbourhood.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

18 athens beaches inQUICK
the news
PICKS 19

Bank workers die in arson Greek tourism loses face

The impromptu shrine at the bank at 23 Stadiou st Ex-Tourism minister Angela Gerekou
On May 5 one of the largest demonstrations of the past de- Greek tourism minister and ex-actress Angela Gerekou had
cade (around 150,000 people) against the harsh measures to resign from her position after a daily newspaper revealed
imposed by the EU and the IMF was overshadowed by the that her husband, popular singer Tolis Voskopoulos, owes the
death of three bank employees and an unborn baby, after tax authorities a staggering 5.5 million euros. Although Mr
a group of people using the demonstration as a cover at- Voskopoulos’ unsettled obligations date back to before he
tacked a bank branch in downtown Athens. It was the worst met Ms Gerekou, the govenment’s self declared no-tolerance
outburst of violence in Athens since the December 2008 policy and the public anger over the state of the Greek
riots sparked by the killing of a 15-year-old boy by a police economy left little choice to Ms Gerekou and prime minister
Athens is surrounded by water and most of the beaches Grand Beach, Lagonissi 40km Tel. 22910 76000 KTEL officer. The attack was condemned by all parts of the Greek Papandreou who accepted her resignation. Greek tourism
around the city are easily accessible by public transport. (intercity) bus from Pedion to Areos to Sounio, bus stop society and an investigation using security cameras footage faces one of its most challenging seasons partly due to the
The Athenian beaches fall into two broad categories, basically Lagonissi €3.30, Weekdays 10:00-sunset, Weekends is underway to uncover the murderers. The charred remains images of public unrest in the streets of Athens.
those that are public and free and the privately operated ones 09:00-sunset,Admission: Weekdays: €5, children under 12 of the bank have become an impromptu shrine, while the
where an admission fee is charged for the services. free, Weekends: €14, children 6-12 yrs: €7. Parking week- bank management announced that the branch will never
As a general rule, free public beaches do not offer any ame-
nities (except a beach bar in some cases). In the privately
days: €3, weekends €8, Sunbeds incl. all days. open for business again. Holocaust Memorial
operated beaches the entrance fee sometimes includes
sun-beds, umbrellas and showers and there are of course Public beaches Bailed out
beach bars, restaurants and even shops to keep you oc- There are hundreds of beaches down the Attica coast and if
cupied for the whole day. you don’t feel like planning ahead, you can just board the bus
and find the appropriate bus stops by just following the crowd.
Finally, if you are really lazy, cannot be bothered to drag Or, if you drive, a good way to find a good beach is to watch for
yourself down the coast and all you want is to enjoy the hot the number of cars parked at the side of the road.
Athenian sun, many hotels have swimming pools that are The following are some of the most popular free beaches.
open to the public, for a fee of course. As a rule, the price Although there is some kind of shop near almost every one
includes the use of the swimming pool sun-beds and towels of them, remember to bring a bottle of water, towels, hats
(and often lockers and changing rooms) and you can buy and everything else you may need.
drinks and light snacks from the pool bar. The new Memorial
Alimos, 11 km,
A Holocaust Memorial situated near the ancient Kerameikos
Privately operated beaches: Tram, stop Zephyros/ Kalamaki / Bus 141 from Agios Dimi-
trios metro station / Bus 103 from Akadimias st €0.80 cemetery in Thissio was unveiled last May. It consists of a
Agios Kosmas 15 km, Tram, stop 1st Agios Kosmas / broken marble Star of David with each of its six triangles
Ble, Alimos 12 km Tel. 210 9855169 Bus 141 from Agios Dimitrios metro station / Bus 103 from pointing in the direction of the Greek cities with Jewish
Tram:stop Zephyros/Kalamaki / Bus 141 from Agios Akadimias st €0.80 populations that fell victim to the Nazis. The monument is
Dimitrios metro station / Bus 103 from Akadimias st. Daily: Vouliagmeni -Limanakia 28 km, Bus E22 surrounded by a small tree garden and it is located near the
08:00-20:00,Admission: Weekdays€6 (free sunbeds) Week- Agia Marina 34 km, Bus E22 , KTEL (intercity) bus to Athens Synagogue were in March 1944 Nazi troops trapped
Greek Finance minister Giorgos Papakonstantinou hundreds of Athenian Jews. Around 80% of the Greek Jewish
ends €8 (sunbeds €3) Chidren under 12: half price. Sounio, €2.90
Thalassea, Voula 20 km Tel. 210 8959632 Anavyssos 44 km, Bus E22 , KTEL (intercity) bus to After long discussions and when signs of contagion to other population lost their lives in concentration camps.
Bus A1 from Faliro metro station Daily: 08:00-20:00 Admis- Sounio, €4.20 European countries became apparent, Greece’s European
sion: Weekdays €5.5,Weekends €6.5 (sunbeds incl.)
Astir Beach, Vouliagmeni 26 km Tel. 210 8902000
Legraina 64 km, KTEL (intercity) bus to Sounio, €5.20
Sounio 69 km, KTEL (intercity) bus to Sounio, €5.20 / €5.70
partners in cooperation with the International Monetary
Fund approved a huge €110 billion package to support the Acropolis restored
Tram, stop Glyfada and then bus 114, Daily: 08:00 -21:00 depending on the route. Greek economy over the next three years. The financial aid After decades of restoration works on the Acropolis rock,
Admission: Weekdays €15, children €10 Weekends € 25, comes at a high price which includes new pay cuts for the the ugly scaffolding that surrounded the Parthenon and
children €15 OASA coast Express bus E22 departs Akadimias st (& civil servants and pensioners (10-20% since the beginning the Propylaia (the entrance to the rock) has been finally
Yabanaki, Varkiza 27km Tel. 210 8972414 Ippokratous MPanepistimio) every 20 minutes, Tickets of the year), higher duties for fuel, tobacco and alcohol and removed. It is estimated that the giant restoration project
Bus 171 from Dafni metro station. Daily: 08:00-20:00, cost €1.20 the second VAT rise in three months to 23%. Furthermore, that commenced in the seventies will take at least another
Admission: Weekdays €6 (sunbeds incl.) Weekends €7 KTEL buses servicing the southern coast depart Pedion painful changes are expected in the pension system and ten years to complete.
(sunbeds: €4,5). Children under 6yrs free, children under 12 Areos (Alexandras & Mavromateon st, MVictoria) starting there is speculation that further measures are on the table
yrs, students €4, Free Parking at 06:30 and every half hour - last bus 21:30 if there is not a significant improvent in the public finances
over the coming months.
www.inyourpocket.com

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

20 world CUP 2010 world CUP 2010 21

Let’s be honest from the start: unless you are an

American, the football World Cup is the greatest Ke nako: It’s time It’s Spain’s to lose dona, they could as easily win the thing
as go out in the first round without
sporting event known to man (or woman). Once every When we began preparing this preview, there was winning a game, as they did in 2002.
South Africa is the first African country to host the World Cup, no doubt that Spain were the clear favourites to Italy – the champions last time out
four years almost all of the world’s best footballers and though there have been many doubts about the organi- take their first World Cup title. Then the full in 2006 – look less capable even
get together for this over-hyped yet essential event. sational aspects of the tournament, the country is ready for extent of the injury to start centre-forward than Argentina of putting together
From all over the planet artisans and magicians, the event and there’s no doubt that international visitors will Fernando Torres became clear, putting his a decent run in the tournament,
be given a warm welcome. Although Bafana Bafana, as the participation in the early stages – at least while Germany currentl y pos-
devils and hatchet-men converge on one lucky South Africa team is known, is not a strong side and faces - of the tournament in doubt, and suddenly sesses the worst team in their
country chosen to host this unique and unmatchable a very tough group, any positive results will undoubtedly be the playing field had been levelled. Then memory. France are an ageing,
tournament. Countless supporters follow in their cause for widespread celebration. news broke of key midfield man Xavi wilting team hardly set for one
wake, many with, many without tickets; all hoping Ever since South Africa was awarded the event in 2004, Hernandez possibly missing the tourna- last glorious hurrah, and are
there has been a frenzy of preparations across the country, ment and many were questioning Spain’s beset by scandal surrounding
to catch this outstanding pageant of humanity at with several fantastic new stadiums being erected, new favourite status. one or two key players, while
play. Even the Olympic Games take second place to roads and railways constructed, and new rapid bus systems Not the bookmakers, however. They Holland could do well, though
football’s world championship, where the world’s best introduced in Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town. Even make Spain the clearest favourites – inju- as al ways it will depend on
teams – or some of them, at least - compete for the the new high-speed rail link from Johannesburg airport to ries or no injuries – for many a year. Brazil are their mood. Brazil? If they make
town, originally not linked to the World Cup, has been fast- tipped by the bookies for the runners-up it through the group of death then
golden statuette that is the World Cup Trophy. Indeed, tracked for opening before kick-off. Unfortunately, there is spot, with Argentina and England third and they could well go all the way.
ignoring the uncomfortable fact that the 32 nations genuine worry about how much of the money generated by fourth favourites. The bookies are not wrong:
competing in South Africa are probably not, in fact, the the event will trickle down to the poor, as street traders are That England should be so highly it’s Spain’s to lose, with
32 best footballing nations on earth, this promises banned from selling near the stadiums without paying absurd rated is evidence that we should Brazil to pick up the trophy
license fees. While South Africa has spent many millions of not perhaps be expecting a vintage if the Iberians falter.
to be a great tournament, even though Spain are the euros on the event, it’s FIFA that stands to gain most from tournament. There really is going to But who really knows?
hottest favourites for many a year. Indeed, while we ticket and sponsorship income. FIFA’s draconian media be a lot of rubbish on show in South We – for no reason more
have been wrong with our predictions in the past, and branding rules have been lampooned by satirical news Africa. Matches such as Slovakia scien ti fic than a hunch
website Hayibo.com, who are selling T-shirts with the text against Paraguay look certain to raise – think that Ghana will do
(In Your Pocket’s experts famously predicted Brazil ‘Feefa 2.010 Whirled Cup Sowth Afrika – go on, sue me’. the interest of very few people. Such is well. We also like the look of
as champions in 2006), that will not stop us making In the run-up to the event, the excitement is tangible on the gulf between the best and worst that the United States, and if they
more. And for 2010 our tip is unambiguous: Spain will the streets of host cities, where stalls stock the full range of we expect few surprises during the group can find the net often enough Chile
win the World Cup. If key players - Xavi Hernandez and national flags and where the national side’s green-yellow shirt stage: in all but one of the groups it is clear could do well. Yet none of these three will
is visible everywhere. Whatever the results of Bafana Bafana, which two sides will finish first and second. beat an on-form Spain. And injuries or not
Fernando Torres in particular - are fit and in form, Spain the World Cup is certainly going to be a massive celebration The exception of course is the Group of Death: Spain are the best team in South Africa.
will - in the absence of anyone else capable of really of football, and of Africa. Group G, in which the much fancied Brazil could
challenging them - be unstoppable. We think... face an early exit, going up as they do against
Ivory Coast, Portugal and the mystery men
from North Korea. Where to watch it
Greece in the World Cup Flying the flag for In Your Pocket at this Unlimited amounts of beer and true
World Cup we have Slovenia, Serbia and football atmosphere are prerequisites
The last and only time Greece took prart in a World Cup second place. Argentina of course is out of the question Greece. While not one of the three will expect to enjoy the party to the full. James
was in the USA in 1994. A tournament most Greeks want and will bring sore memories back from 1994. to take the trophy home, all three could Joyce Irish pub and Athens Sports
to forget as the team conceded a humilliating 10 goals in make the second phase: Serbia especially Bar are two places in Athens you’re
three games (four against Argentina and Bulgaria and two Some players to watch in this tournament: look worth a bet to make the quarter finals guaranteed both, plus on-the-spot
against Nigeria) without scoring any. Fanis Gekas - striker: He watched EURO 2004 from home at the very least. events relating to particular games.
Conversely, no Greek will ever forget the but since, was acquired by VfL Bochum, fin- Is any other nation prepared to meet For an upmarket experience,
magic June of 2004, when the whole nation ished top scorer in Bundesliga, then moved to Spain’s challenge? Of the traditional Classical Hotels (2 Fashion
was delirious with joy for the unprecedented Bayer Leverkusen, Portsmouth, Hertha and ‘big guns’ Argentina – despite the House, King George and
and unbelievable success of the ‘Greek he- Eintracht Frankfurt. Has scored 20 times in presence of th e world’s b est Athens Imperial in the centre)
roes’, in the European Championship finals 47 games with the national squad and 10 player, Leo Messi - look frail will be hosting World Cup
in Portugal. Since then the team has had times in the World Cup qualifiers finishing top and lacking in cohesion. Led evenings with a special
its ups and downs, failing to qualify for the European scorer ahead of Wayne Rooney! from the bench by the utterly menu for the fans at very
World Cup in Germany in 2006 and return- Giorgos Karagounis - midfielder: The team’s unpredictable Diego Mara- attractive prices.
ing with a bad performance in Euro 2008. tireless machine. He runs many kilometres in
‘King’ Otto Rehhagel, the German coach, every game and is always dangerous - scored
had to close his eyes and ears to a nation the opening goal of the triumphant march of
of prominent coaches who demanded noth- 2004. One of the team’s best free kickers.
ing less than 3 points in every single game Sotiris Ninis - midfielder: If Rehhagel gives
played since Porugal. He slowly overcame the 20 year old rising star a chance in South
his obsessions with the old players and Africa you’ll be watching the first international
started calling up fresh talent without of steps of a great talent with a bright future
course abandoning all the heroes of his old outside the Greek borders. His contract with
triumph. Although all too often criticised for Panathinaikos has a multimillion transfer re-
his defensive coaching, his contract was lease clause but that shouldn’t worry the likes
extended until this year’s World Cup making of Man United who keep an eye on him.
him the oldest coatch in South Africa (71). Sotiris Kyriakos - defender: His passionate
Expectations aren’t too high this year and it will be a suc- and powerful game together with his huge apperance can
cess if the squad makes it to the second round. become the nightmare of every opponent attacker. Last
With a good result against South Korea in the opening season he moved from AEK Athens to Liverpool where he
game of Group B, Greeks can fight against Nigeria for the had a series of good performances.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

22 world CUP FixtUres world CUP FixtUres 23

GROUP A GROUP B GROUP C GROUP D

11 June, 17:00 JOHANNESBURG 12 June, 17:00 JOHANNESBURG 12 June, 21:30 RUSTENBURG 13 June, 21:30 DURBAN
South Africa Mexico Argentina Nigeria England USA Germany Australia
11 June, 21:30 CAPE TOWN 12 June, 14:30 PORT ELIZABETH 13 June, 14:30 POLOKWANE 13 June, 17:00 PRETORIA
Uruguay France South Korea Greece Algeria Slovenia Serbia Ghana
16 June, 21:30 PRETORIA 17 June, 17:00 BLOEMFONTEIN 18 June, 17:00 JOHANNESBURG 18 June, 14:30 PORT ELIZABETH
South Africa Uruguay Greece Nigeria Slovenia USA Germany Serbia
17 June, 21:30 POLOKWANE 17 June, 14:30 JOHANNESBURG 18 June, 21:30 CAPE TOWN 19 June, 17:00 RUSTENBURG
France Mexico Argentina South Korea England Algeria Ghana Australia
22 June, 17:00 RUSTENBURG 22 June, 21:30 DURBAN 23 June, 17:00 PORT ELIZABETH 23 June, 21:30 JOHANNESBURG
Mexico Uruguay Nigeria South Korea Slovenia England Ghana Germany
22 June, 17:00 BLOEMFONTEIN 22 June, 21:30 POLOKWANE 23 June, 17:00 PRETORIA 23 June, 21:30 NELSPRUIT
France South Africa Greece Argentina USA Algeria Australia Serbia

GROUP E GROUP F GROUP G GROUP H

14 June, 14:30 JOHANNESBURG 14 June, 21:30 CAPE TOWN 15 June, 17:00 PORT ELIZABETH 16 June, 14:30 NELSPRUIT
Netherlands Denmark Italy Paraguay Ivory Coast Portugal Honduras Chile
14 June, 21:30 BLOEMFONTEIN 15 June, 14:30 RUSTENBURG 15 June, 21:30 JOHANNESBURG 16 June, 17:00 DURBAN
Japan Cameroon New Zealand Slovakia Brazil North Korea Spain Switzerland
19 June, 17:00 DURBAN 20 June, 14:30 BLOEMFONTEIN 20 June, 21:30 JOHANNESBURG 21 June, 17:00 PORT ELIZABETH
Netherlands Japan Slovakia Paraguay Brazil Ivory Coast Chile Switzerland
19 June, 21:30 PRETORIA 20 June, 17:00 NELSPRUIT 21 June, 14:30 CAPE TOWN 21 June, 21:30 JOHANNESBURG
Cameroon Denmark Italy New Zealand Portugal North Korea Spain Honduras
24 June, 21:30 RUSTENBURG 24 June, 17:00 JOHANNESBURG 25 June, 17:00 DURBAN 25 June, 21:30 PRETORIA
Denmark Japan Slovakia Italy Portugal Brazil Chile Spain
24 June, 21:30 CAPE TOWN 24 June, 17:00 POLOKWANE 25 June, 17:00 NELSPRUIT 25 June, 21:30 BLOEMFONTEIN
Cameroon Netherlands Paraguay New Zealand North Korea Ivory Coast Switzerland Honduras

SECOND ROUND QUARTER FINALS SEMI-FINALS

26 June, 17:00 PORT ELIZABETH 28 June, 18:00 DURBAN 2 July, 17:00 PORT ELIZABETH 6 July, 21:30 CAPE TOWN

49 __________ _____________ 53 __________ ______________ A ____________ _____________ I. ____________ _____________

(WINNER A) (RUNNER-UP B) (WINNER E) (RUNNER-UP F) (WINNER MATCH 53) (WINNER MATCH 54) (WINNER QF A) (WINNER QF B)
26 June, 21:30 RUSTENBURG 28 June, 21:30 JOHANNESBURG 2 July, 21:30 JOHANNESBURG 7 July, 21:30 DURBAN

50 __________ _____________ 54 __________ ______________ B ____________ _____________ II. ____________ _____________

(WINNER C) (RUNNER-UP D) (WINNER G) (RUNNER-UP H) (WINNER MATCH 49) (WINNER MATCH 50) (WINNER QF C) (WINNER QF D)

All times local Greek time.

27 June, 18:00 BLOEMFONTEIN 29 June, 18:00 PRETORIA 3 July, 17:00 CAPE TOWN

51 __________ _____________ 55 __________ ______________ C ___________ _____________

(WINNER B) (RUNNER-UP A) (WINNER F) (RUNNER-UP E) (WINNER MATCH 52) (WINNER MATCH 51) THIRD PLACE
27 June, 21:30 JOHANNESBURG 29 June, 21:30 CAPE TOWN 3 July, 21:00 JOHANNESBURG 10 July, 21:30 PORT ELIZABETH
52 __________ _____________ 56 __________ ______________ D ___________ _____________ _____________ ______________
(WINNER D) (RUNNER-UP C) (WINNER H) (RUNNER-UP G) (WINNER MATCH 55) (WINNER MATCH 56) (LOSER I.) (LOSER II.)

FINAL
11 July, 21:30 _________________ (WINNER I.) (WINNER II.) __________________ JOHANNESBURG

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

24 greeK islAnds greeK islAnds 25

The In Your Pocket Top 10 3. Mykonos 4.Hydra

With 227 inhabited islands, surrounded by crystal
clear waters and offering world class beaches and
landscapes, it is only natural that Greece was
one of the first holiday destinations when mass
tourism started a few decades ago.
Some islands became so popular that their entire
economies are now centred on the tourist trade.
However, there are others that have only been
‘discovered’ as holiday destinations - even by the
Greeks - in recent years.
Although the generalised term “Greek Islands’
brings to mind one particular kind of holiday,
every single one of them has its own distinct ‘Little Venice’ the trademark of Mykonos
character. Hydra harbour

Some are rocky, others green. Some are moun- A cross between Capri and Ibiza (in its good days) but Just an hour and fifteen minutes from Piraeus, Hydra
tainous, others flat. Many are infamous for their with a very cycladic feel, Mykonos boasts of the best is one of the prettiest Greek islands with a unique
nightli fe, while others are renowned for their beaches in the country, the craziest nightlife and the architechture that has been preserved due to a strict
tranquility and relaxed lifestyle. Quite a few cater most ridiculous prices you’ll pay in Greece. Celebrities, development policy. Large houses belonging to historic
to high-end tourism and exclusive crowds, while gay, and wannabes flood the island every summer. They figures loom on the hills on both sides of the picturesque
there are islands that attract young and alterna- sunbathe their days away on their pre-booked sunbeds harbour and there is a total car and motorbike ban on
tive types. and the nights squeezing past each other in the narrow the island. Instead, mules lining up with their owners
streets of the picturesque village, moving between bars untertake all the transportation burdens of locals and
A top ten list can never be exhaustive by any and clubs. Bring along the best pieces of your wardrobe visitors (and litter the narrow cobbled streets). To go to
means, and you can only discover your own per- (preferably white), all your energy and credit cards. The one of the sandy beaches of the island, one must hire a
sonal paradise by trial and error. In this issue we fact that world famous Japanese restaurant Nobu set up sea-taxi, but the deep blue waters just off the harbour
present ten of the most popular islands, a begin- shop first in Mykonos and a few years later in Athens says are where most people go to swim. Nightlife is basic but
ner’s list of classic Greek destinations. a lot about the kind of holiday you should expect here. adequate for a relaxing holiday.

1. Santorini 2. Crete 5. Cephalonia 6. Paros

Fira photographed from a ferry Preveli beach on the south coast Myrtos beach Naousa
Louis De Bernières has done for Cephalonia what the Probably the most typical of the Greek islands and a
If you’re going to visit only one Greek island in your life The largest Greek island, Crete has a distinct local culture convenient base for island hoping around the Cyclades
then let it be Santorini. Breathtaking volcanic views and and will satisfy whatever it is you’re looking for. Busy best PR consultant wouldn’t even begin to imagine with
his wonderful novel and worldwide best seller ‘Captain due to its excellent ferry connections. The beaches, the
one of the best sunsets in the world consistently place it touristy resorts, wonderful old towns like Chania and nightlife and the accommodation choice are all above
at the top of any Greek islands list. Its beaches are very Rethymno, amazing deserted beaches even in August Corelli’s Mandolin’ (Amazon £5.99) which is set on the
island. And when the film came out a few years later the average and many holiday makers return year after
peculiar (and do not appeal to everyone) due to the black (especially on the south coast), unspoiled mountain vil- year. Parikia with its lovely old town is the capital and
and red volcanic sand. Couples should opt for tranquil lages with people utouched by the tourism ‘gold fever’, natural beauty and the sapphire waters of Cephalonia
were advertised on screen too and its tourism fortunes the port of Paros, but most nightlife is concentrated in
and romantic Oia, where luxury rooms with a Caldera (the and the best food by far among all Greek islands. It is piqturesque Naousa. Regular international windsurfing
volcanic crater) view can cost a forune, whereas those a trecker’s paradise, with top attraction the challenging were turned upside down overnight. Myrtos is the most
famous of its beaches, but there is a plethora of things competitions are held at noisy Chrysi Akti beach but
young at heart should choose Fira, the lively capital of Samaria Gorge and one of the highest mountains in the you can easily find quiet and isolated beaches if all you
the island built on top of the Caldera cliff with equally country Idi (locally known as Psiloritis). It is imposible to to do and wonderful nature to appreciate away from the
coast too. Argostoli and Lixouri are the two (rival) main want is to relax and enjoy the blue waters. And if really
fantastic views. The eastern side of the island is generally ‘do’ Crete in one visit so try to concentrate either on the quiet holidays are more up your street, Antiparos is the
cheaper and has little of the magic Santorini feel. East (based around Agios Nikolaos) or West (based at towns, while Fiscardo and Sami (the village where the
film was set) are well worth visiting. tiny and alternative neighbour just minutes away on a
Chania or Rethymno). A car is neccesary in any case. local boat.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

26 greeK islAnds
7. Corfu 8 Skiathos

Liston square The green island

A northern Ionian island with a mixture of influences rang- Unlike the Cyclades, Skiathos and its neighbouring Spo-
ing from the Venetians to the French, Italian and British rades complex are flooded with pine trees that reach the
(the only place in Grecce that you can watch locals playing sea and surround its numerous sandy beaches, like Kou-
a cricket game and drinking ginger ale!). The old town with kounaries, one of the pretiest and busiest in the country.
the two fortresses is an UNESCO world cultural heritage Hora, the capital of the island is an idyllic village with
site and the nature one of the best you can find on any red-roofed white houses built on a hillside surrounding
Greek island. Fine beaches with freezing cold waters the harbour. An ideal destination for families and those
on the eastern side attract thousands of visitors every not attracted by the harsh and rocky natural beauty of
summer and as in every large tourism-orientated Greek the islands of southern Aegean. Easy access to the rest
island the range of holidays one can enjoy is vast. of the Sporades, Skopelos, Skyros and Alonissos, makes
a local island hopping possible.

9. Rhodes 10. Ios

Entrance to the Rhodes harbour Hora, alternative and charming

Once home to one of the seven wonders of the world The alternative corner of the Aegean during the 70s and
the ‘Colossus’, Rhodes was one of the earliest holiday 80s. Its fans have grown up now and have proper jobs
destinations in the country. It is marked by the wonder- but something of the atmosphere of those days is still
ful Medieval old town, another UNESCO world heritage preserved on the island. The whitewashed houses of
site. Most holiday makers arrive on charter flights as Hora, its main village, hide a frenetic but not high quality
the ferry from Piraeus can take many hours, and they nightlife, that you’ll appreciate more if you are under 25.
have a good choice of resorts on the island, ranging Its beaches though, are at par with the best in Cyclades
from the top all-inclusive five star hotels to downright and indeed the whole country (Ios and in particular the
‘sun ‘n booze’ holidays. There is plenty of sightseeing to isolated beach of Manganari is the favourite summer
do, and a number of museums to give you that cultural destination of former Prime Minister Karamanlis). If you
alibi between your long days on the fine beaches and suddenly feel too old for the exhausting pace of the place,
the long nights out. you are only a short ferry ride away from Santorini.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com

28 CUltUre & events CUltUre & events 29

Louise Bourgeois/Sarah Lucas Istanbul by Ara Güler Austria la vista baby Edgar Degas

Until July 25: Istanbul by Ara Güler, New Bena-

ki Museum A5, Pireos 138, MKerameikos, tel. 210
3453111, www.benaki.gr. Güler, who is particularly
well-loved by the Greeks, is considered to be the most
popular photographer of Istanbul. The style and atmo-
sphere of his photographs has references to the work of
Greek photographer Kostas Balafas. His humanist gaze Until June 13: ‘Austria la vista baby’, The Art
recorded everyday events, focusing on simple people and Foundation (TAF), D5, Normanou 5, MMonasti-
May 12 - September 19: “Sarah Lucas: using the city of Istanbul as his backdrop.
Nuds/ Louise Bourgeois: Personages”, raki, tel. (+30) 210 3238757, (+30) 6988391684,
The exhibition comprises circa 100 prints on the topic www.theartfoundation.gr The exhibition “Austria
Cycladic Museum of Art, I5, The Stathatos Man- of Constantinople in the 1960s and 1970s, selected
sion, Vasilissis Sofias & Irodotou 1, MSyntagma, la vista, baby” follows up to the exhibition “Flavors of
especially for the Benaki Museum exhibition. Austria” that was presented in May 2009 at TAF (the art
Evangelismos, tel. (+30) 210 7228321 - 3, www. The exhibition will be accompanied by Güler’s book,
cycladic.gr. foundation). Curator Christian Rupp focuses on critical
Istanbul, which will be published in a Greek translation approaches towards issues of social and political aware-
by OLKOS Publications and will include texts by Nobel ness and a variety of established contemporary Austrian
The Cycladic Museum of Art’s double bill showing Louise prize-winning novelist Orhan Pamuk, who carries out an Until August 14: The Complete Sculptures of
Bourgeois and Sarah Lucas alongside the sculptures of artists, ranging from Documenta participants to art Edgar Degas C5, Herakleidon Experience in Visual
imaginary discussion with the photographer’s oeuvre. students, expresses them through works of painting,
Cycladic Art, is the perfect move in an ongoing project QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Arts, Iraklidon 16, MThissio, tel. 210 3461981,
to unite contemporary culture with the prehistoric with photography, installation, performance and object art. www.herakleidon-art.gr.
Tue. Admission fee: €4-6. The exhibition is organised by TAF and cheapart, under
the setting of Athens itself, a city inseparable from its A groundbreaking show featuring all 74 sculptures of
classical and Byzantine past. The exhibition places the the aegis of the Austrian Embassy in Athens and the sup- Edgar Degas - set to redefine everything we know about
tradition of contemporary sculpture within the context port of the Austrian Ministry of Culture and highlights the the artist’s sculptures. The result of a discovery of a
of figurative art history. Ashes to Ashes close relationship between Athens and Vienna. QOpen series of Degas sculpture models no-one knew existed
One of the trailblazers of Young British Art, Sarah 13:00 - 24:00, Free admission. until now. Everyone knows the work of Edgar Degas, one
Lucas is coming to Athens with a selection taken from of the most important impressionists of the movement
the artist’s latest series of work, Nuds. The exhibition – his paintings of ballerinas and dancers have captured
marks an evolution in the artist’s career. More classi- the heart of many an art enthusiast. But for many, it is
cally sculptural than any of Lucas’s previous sculptures, Greek National Opera his sculptures that captivate – namely the Little Dancer,
the delicate handling of what are essentially stockings Aged Fourteen, one of the artist’s most famous works.
stuffed with wadding creates anthropomorphic sugges- Degas used a mixture of clay and beeswax to create his
tions of limbs and torsos entangled within themselves. pieces – the beeswax giving the material a malleability
The result is a timely depiction of the body in the grand that would last for some time – becoming, in essence,
old tradition of the nude body in art. Presented on Until July 31: AMP Gallery D4, Epikourou 26 & clay’s equivalent to oil paint. Degas liked to work on his
rough plinths, the Cycladic Museum’s choice is both Korinis, MThissio, tel. 210 3251881, www.a-m-p. pieces continuously and when he died in 1917, some 150
unexpected yet completely natural. gr. With the Benaki Museum, Cycladic Museum of Art sculptures in this material were discovered in his studio.
Held in parallel with Sarah Lucas’s exhibition, Louise and the National Contemporary Museum having cornered The bronzes cast from plaster models reveal the true
Bourgeois is yet another apt choice made by the Cycla- the arts events listings, perhaps a taste of a different sculptural hand of the artist, with no details lost. With
dic Museum. With works from the Personages series, Athens might suit its more curious travellers. An invita- the Little Dancer widely-regarded to be the first example
made in 1947-53, Bourgeois is the perfect mid-point tion to venture down Pireos street into the crumbling of modern sculpture, this exhibition is the chance to wit-
- modernist works result in totem-like geometric sug- neighbourhood of Metaxourgeio, where the AMP Gallery ness the hands of the artist himself in all of the works
gestions of man and woman act as a bridge between is hosting an exhibition in the AMP Works space, Ashes to – each mark he made in the soft, rough surface of his
prehistoric sculpture to the mid 20th Century, to now. Ashes, is an exhibition that showcases the antiquities of material will be there for all to see. Starting in Athens, the
Essentially, what you get is a timeline that looks at the the Martinos Gallery – one of the city’s more established exhibition will then travel to museums around the world,
human body throughout the ages. At the same time, dealers in antiques - alongside ten contemporary artists and then, a new conversation redefining the
we are also getting a peek at the form from a woman’s including Ara Peterson, Frances Upritchard and Matthew work of Edgar Degas will surely
perspective. Higgs. The exhibition aims to discover a current thread ensue. Let it be known that
With a developing programme that aims to merge con- that might unite past and present within the cultural iden- the conversation started right
temporary art with classic, the juxtaposition of Cycladic tity of Athens and what it represents and is curated by here, in Athens.
sculpture and with Sarah Lucas and Louise Bourgeois’s young artist Christopher Garrett. In a city where ancient
pieces casts the viewer as a critical link between past histories are paraded to its population and its visitors QOpen 13:00 - 21:00, Sun
and present. Genius. on a daily basis, the show aims to re-contextualise the 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 Greek capital as a contemporary city with influences June 12,13,18,19 ‘Norma’ Vincenzo Bellini: Admission fee: €6, Conces-
- 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission fee: €7, concessions: that go beyond the Acropolis. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Herodes Atticus Odeon, Tickets: €30-100 www. sions:€4, Under 12: Free
€2.5-3.5, Mondays: €3.5. Under 18: Free Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. greekfestival.gr

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

30 CUltUre & events CUltUre & events 31

European Music Day

If you hear music on the streets of central Athens be-
tween June 19-21, your best bet is to follow it – or if your
hearing fails you, just follow the crowds. For six days,
Athens will be celebrating its inherent love of music, in
of one of the largest musical events of its kind, European
Music Day. Held in over one hundred cities in twenty-two
countries worldwide, the event is officially held annually
Centring on dance, music and theatre, the Athens- Musically, Rufus Wainwright will be in concert 5 June, the on the day of the summer solstice, June 21. Neverthe-
Epidaurus Festival is one of the things that makes Athens Simón Bolívar Youth Orchestra of Venezuela will perform less, in Greece, one day simply isn’t enough.
beautiful. Every summer as the event’s distinctive posters compositions by Beethoven and Stravinsky under con- Athens has always had an active role in European Music
go up around the city, one is reminded of the fact that ductor Gustavo Dudamel on 23 June at the ancient theatre Day. In 1985, with the support of Melina Mercouri, the
despite its modern façade of hustle, bustle and general of Herodes Atticus which lies under the Acropolis hill. Greek capital became the first city to host the event
chaos, Athens is a city with a deep love of the theatrical outside of France, where the institution was conceived in
arts. The productions are varied and diverse, with Ethan For dance lovers, Prosxima Dance Company presents Ma- 1982 by French Minister of Culture, Jack Lang. Today, the
Hawke, Helen Mirren, Fanny Ardent and Gerard Depar- ria Koliopoulou [action] 8 – Singularity, 11 & 12 June, while event is organised in Greece by M.E.S.O events, also the
dieu being just a few of the names who have clambered to stars and soloists of the New York City Ballet present host of the first European Music Day Meeting in Athens
perform on one of the city’s stages, though the real magic Danses Concertantes – a collection of choreographies by this year, which brought together leading members from
for any actor would be the moment they recite the lines of Balanchine, Robbins and Millepied, 7-9 July. Throughout the international network in a meeting that focused on
age-old plays on Epidaurus’s ancient stage. the festival, workshops and lectures will take place, as the future development of the event.
This year is no different. The programme, as always, well as an outdoor cinema and programme of installations Emphasising a celebratory approach, this musical ex-
is diverse, with enough for anyone to enjoy. More ex- including William Kentridge’s, I Am Not Me, the Horse is travaganza is free to spectators and performers, honour-
perimental theatrical endeavours include Theatre in a Not Mine, 1-15 June. From late July, the theatre programme ing The European Music Day network’s sole purpose to
Caravan’s vaudeville performance, One Night Just for shifts to the Epidaurus theatre, the cherry on top for the support and present music in all its guises, from amateur
You, staged at the Korean Market, opposite the Keramikos lucky ones who experience a performance there. Diana Krall, Terravibe Park, July 4 and professional acts, to genres that span the musical
archaeological site 7&8 June, Rimini Protokoll’s produc- spectrum. In Athens, local and international musicians
tion of Prometheus in Athens, 15 July 2010, 21:00 or For more information, see www.greekfestival.com. The will be performing all over the city, and main events
Studio Oyuncuları’s How to Forget in 10 Steps [Anti- Athens-Epidaurus Festival runs from June to August.
Concerts will take place at Plateia Kotzia, Syntagma Square,
Prometheus], 7 July. June Technopolis and Plateia Klafthmonos. Judging from the
Tue 1: Rihanna, Karaiskaki Stadium www.elevencon- success of last year’s Music Day, this year promises to
certs.com €60-250 be one of the best yet with even more musical discover-
Fri 18: Billy Idol - The Stranglers, Alexandras stadium, ies to be made. Best get your walking shoes on. You
Synch Festival www.tickethouse.gr €38 will certainly need them when this music festival with a
Sun 20: Aerosmith, Karaiskaki Stadium www.eleven- difference kicks off.
concerts.com €60-200
Mon 21 Gotan Project, Lycabettus Theatre, www.tick- For the full list of performers check out:
ethour.gr €50 www.europeanmusicday.gr
Thu 24: Metalica,Slayer,Megadeath, Anthrax, Terravibe
Park, www.tickethouse.gr €95 Agion Asomaton Sq. C4, C5, Ermou & Melidonis
Mon 28: Rammstein, Terravibe Park, www.tickethouse. St, MThissio.
gr €55 Klafthmonos Sq. F4, , MPanepistimio.
Kotzia Sq. E3, MOmonia.
July Mavili Sq. K4, MMegaro Mousikis.
Started in 2004, the annual Synch Festival has come a Sat 3: Elvis Costello & Sugarcanes, Terravibe Park, www. Monastiraki Sq. D5, , MMonastiraki.
long way since its beginnings. This year, the festival that tickethouse.gr €30-55 National Gardens G6, Amalias Av., MSyntagma.
celebrates electronic music welcomes Laurent Garnier, Sun 4:Diana Krall, Terravibe Park, www.tickethouse. Syntagma Sq. G5, , MSyntagma.
Hot Chip, Peaches, DJ Krush, Busy P, Fuck Buttons, A gr €56-120
Place to Bury, Get Well Soon, Alva Noto, Jimmy Edgar, Matt Tue 13: Ejekt Festival (FAITH NO MORE, BAD RELIGION,
Elliott, Blixa Bargeld, Æthenor Spyweirdos, Cayetano, UNKLE, ZEBRA TRACKS, OBOJENI PROGRAM), Fencing
My Wet Calvin, Trus’ Me, Jimi Tenor, The Boy, Modrec, Olympic Centre www.ticketarena.gr €55
Felizol, lolek, Analog Africa, No Profile, Balearic Mike, Wed 14: Cranberries, Vrachon Theatre, www.elevencon-
Lumiere Brother, Matteus Moon Boots, DJ Booker, and certs.gr €45
Ilan Manouach – with names like that, what else could Mon 19: Jethro Tull, Terravibe Park, www.tickethouse.
one ask for? Perhaps the fact that the Meet Market, gr €28-48
a fair that showcases some of Greece’s finest young Fri 23: Jerry Lee Lewis, Lycabettus Theatre, www.tick-
fashion and jewellery designers, artists and second-hand etpro.gr €55
aficionados, will be putting on its largest edition to date.
Enough said.
Q June 4 - 5 at Technopolis, Gazi. For more information, Rockwave Festival
see www.synch.gr Wed 7 July : The Black Eyed Peas, Faithless, Aviv Gef-
fen, K.VITA, Transistor, €49-95
Sat 10 July: FatBoy Slim, The Ting Tings, The White
Lies, DJ Shadow, Garcia Plays Kyuss €39-95
Ticket reservations: Sun 11 July: Massive Attack, Ska-P, Peyoti For Presi-
www.tickethouse.gr / www.ticketnet.gr dent, Gogol Bordello, Giannis Agelakas €39-95
Q Terra Vibe Park, Three day pass: €120, www.ticket-
www.ticketpro.gr / www.i-ticket.gr house.gr (10% credit card charge)
Aerosmith, Karaiskaki Stadium, June 20 Cranberries, Vrachon Theatre, July 14

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

32 where to stAy where to stAy 33

Suite and impress your companion beyond any expectation. Grand Resort Lagonissi 40th km Athens-Sounion
Hotel Listings Policy The suite occupies the hotel’s entire ninth floor and boasts Av, tel. (+30) 22910 7600, fax (+30) 22910 24534,
of a terrace with a private swimming pool, a jacuzzi and a grandresort@grandresort, www.lagonissiresort.gr. This
Athens offers its visitors a comprehensive range of ac- wonderful Parthenon view which is included in many of those resort is sprawled across a peninsula jutting into the sea,
commodation, as you‘d expect from a city of its size. international lists compiled for the rich and privileged of this in the calm area of Lagonissi, about one hour from the city
The Olympic Games of 2004 gave its hotel industry a world. Tudor Hall, the 7th floor French restaurant, remains centre. Better to opt for a villa or bungalow, but be warned:
radical overhaul, many new hotels were built and most a prominent member of the Athenian dining elite. Q 102 prices are sky high, especially for the more exclusive sea
existing ones underwent complete renovation. rooms, Singles/Doubles: €180-400, Suites: €500-10,000. view villas (with private swimming pool and fitness centre, no
Although accommodation is ample, Athens‘ hotels are PTJHARUFGBKDCW hhhhh less). There is a large selection of restaurants, bars, sports
not cheap and hoteliers seem to prefer lower occupancy and water sports on offer, plus an elegant spa with an array
rates at higher prices. Club Hotel Casino Loutraki Poseidonos 48, Loutraki, of enticing treatments. It provides a fully-equipped business
In Your Pocket will not stop crying out that Athens is in tel. (+30) 27440 60300, fax (+30) 27440 60306, Reser- centre, as well as translation and secretarial services. Why
desperate need of reasonably priced accommodation vations@clubhotelloutraki.gr, www.clubhotelloutraki.gr. not prepare for that meeting while basking under the sun on
at all levels and our list of recommendations is primarily An ultra luxurious resort less than an hour away from Athens. its sandy private beach? Or, then again, why not just lounge
based on the premise of the fairness of prices charged Everything you could desire for a dream stay, away from the by the pool or enjoy the uninterrupted sea views from your
for the services being offered. hustle and bustle of the city centre: Designer furniture, a luxurious villa, and forget about all meetings whatsoever?
private beach, large swimming pools and gardens, an excel- As long as you can afford to stay here, that is. Q 321
lent invigorating Wellness Centre and, last but not least: the rooms. Singles/Doubles: €500-800, Suites: €1000-€5000.
largest casino in Greece - well worth visiting even if you stay PTHARUFLBKDCW hhhhh
in the city centre. There are regular shuttle bus connections
Cream of the Crop from the centre of Athens. With just €15 you’ll get transport,
Over €180
entrance fee, free drinks and lunch as well as the opportunity
Astir Palace Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni, tel. (+30) 210 to spend a few hours of fun and style in a real world class Electra Palace F6, Nikodimou 18-20, Plaka, MSyntag-
8902000, fax (+30) 210 8962582, reservation@astir. casino. Even if you are not the gambling type, the experience ma, tel. (+30) 210 3370000, fax (+30) 210 3241875,
gr, www.astir-palace.com. Located in the coastal suburb is worth a visit and you still stand a chance of winning one of salesepath@electrahotels.gr, www.electra-hotels.com.
of Vouliagmeni, less than an hour from the city centre, Astir the free regular instant cash lottery draws (€1000 & €2000) All time classic luxury in the heart of Plaka. You’ll certainly
Palace is for those who wish to spend their holidays in an Transport info & reservations: 210 5234188 & 210 5234144 feel you’re worth a bob or two once you pass the front door.
elegant and exclusive environment, being pampered by the Q 255 rooms, Singles: €200-350, Doubles: €245-370. No hi-tech extravagances in the standard rooms and small
sea. This luxurious resort, sheltered among shady pine-tree POTHARUFLEBKDCW hhhhh bathrooms are marked down as a negative, but you can
groves, with its rock-hewn landscape, idyllic sea views and always book a suite with living room, LCD TV and balcony
private beaches, offers soothing serenity for those wanting Grande Bretagne G5, Syntagma Square, MSyntagma, with a startling view of Plaka. The spectacular indoor pool
to escape the madding crowd. In general, its amenities are tel. (+30) 210 333000/(+30) 210 3228034, info@ and fitness centre will certainly make up for potential bad
good, including a spa, fitness centre, hair and beauty salon, grandebretagne.gr, www.grandebretagne.gr. This his- weather and keep you in shape. Q 154 rooms. Singles:
mini soccer terrains, tennis courts and water sports, as well toric hotel occupies probably the most expensive piece of €150-200,Doubles: €160-250, Superior rooms: €295-450.
as a good choice of restaurants and bars. And for those VIPs commercial property in the country. Pure luxury, grandeur and PTJHAFLGBKDXCW hhhhh
among you, we have to mention that there’s a helipad and splendour, consistently place GB in every kind of ‘top hotels
private helicopter service, no less, as well as a limousine of the world’ list. Most impressive though, is the list of its Ledra Marriott Syngrou 115, tel. (+30) 210 930 00 00,
transfer service. Couples will love its romantic sunsets and famous guests, more or less all the important people who fax (+30) 210 935 86 03, athensmarriott.com. 50 Cent
lovely rejuvenating surroundings while, with its detached have visited Athens since the hotel was built back in 1874: and rock star Tina Turner stayed in the presidential suite of
bungalows, it also makes a good choice for those bringing Winston Churchill, Maria Callas, Aristotle Onassis and...Naomi this famous luxury hotel. The colonial style furniture adds a
their family entourage. Q 199 rooms. Singles: €150-200, Campbell, as well as countless kings, queens and heads of certain character to the rooms, which are spacious with huge
Doubles: €200-300, Suites: €700-1000. PTHARU� state have in the past slipped between its crisp sheets. single beds. City breakers and businessmen alike love Ledra
FLKDCW hhhhh The hotel has housed governments and occupying forces Marriott. The executive lounge gives you the impression
during turbulent times and from its balconies, the foreign you’re staying in a Tokyo skyscraper hotel and you can’t help
Athens Hilton K5, Vas. Sofias 46, MEvangelismos, tel. press has watched and reported on every important event but feel that Bill Murray and Scarlett Johansson will walk in
(+30) 210 7281000, fax (+30) 210 7281111, reserva- of modern Greek history. Needless to describe its amenities, any minute to join you for a nightcap. The hotel’s Polynesian
tions.athens@hiltoncom, www.hiltonathens.gr. Need we if you can afford the bill you can find out for yourself. What we restaurant, Kona Kai, has ranked among the capital’s top
mention that panache and elegance are synonymous with the need to point out is its Spa, which is definitely worth one of dining spots for the last quarter of a century. Q 314 rooms.
word Hilton? Built in 1963, it wouldn’t be an overstatement your Athens days, and will only set you back a few hundred Singles/Doubles: €149-269, Junior suites: from €349, Suites:
to say that governments have risen and fallen in this build- euros… Q 321 rooms. Singles/Doubles: €250-400, Suites: from €850. PTJHARUFLEGBKDCW
ing. Recently, it underwent a total refurbishment adopting a €500-€5000. PTJHAR6UFGBKDXCW hhhhh
minimal style without abandoning its true Hilton character. hhhhh
Heads of state and top celebrities love the presidential suite O&B Boutique C4, Leokoriou 7, Psirri, MThissio, tel.
overlooking the city. Any type of conference or meeting can
be held here, hosting from 10 to 1200 people. An immense Symbol key (+30) 210 3312950, fax (+30) 210 3312942, reserve@
oandbhotel.com, www.oandbhotel.com. One of the city’s
fitness centre, a beauty salon, barber’s shop, cigar store, favourite small hotels has just doubled in size, remaining how-
newsagent and jewelry store all at your service. And if you P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted ever small enough for the personalised service and top hospi-
feel you’re carrying the weight of the world on your shoulders, tality its owners take pride in offering their guests. The subtle
you can wind down in the silent room, a place of complete E Live music S Take away luxury, minimal decoration and calm atmosphere O&B has
relaxation. Q 524 rooms. Singles: €160-250, Doubles: been known for, have been carefully preserved and the guests
€180-400. PTJHAR6UFLBKDCW T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled now have a large choice of accommodation ranging from a
hhhhh standard double up to the ‘Acropolis Grand Suite’. Internet is
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking of course free-of-charge. Q 22 rooms, Doubles: €190-210,
Classical King George Palace G5, Vasileos Georgiou Suites: €300-550. PTJALGKW hhhh
3, Syntagma Sq, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3222210/ O Casino M Nearest station
(+30) reserv.210 3443590, fax (+30) 210 3250504,
kgpalace@classicalhotels.com, www.classicalhotels. R Internet 6 Animal friendly For more hotel reviews:
com. A member of ‘The Leading Hotels of the World’ and
one of the distinguished Syntagma Sq trio. If you have a few D Sauna C Swimming pool www.inyourpocket.com
thousand euros to spare, go for the 350 sqm Royal Penthouse

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

34 where to stAy where to stAy 35

Saint George Lycabettus I4, Kleomenous 2, tel. Ava F7, Lysikratous 9-11, MAcropolis, tel. (+30) 210 Divani Palace Acropolis D8, Parthenonos 19-25, Golden Age K5, Michalakopoulou 57, MMegaro Mousi-
(+30) 210 7290711-19, fax (+30) 210 7290439, info@ 3259000, fax (+30) 210 3259001, info@avahotel.gr, MAcropolis, tel. (+30) 210 9280100, fax (+30) 210 kis, tel. (+30) 210 7240861-9, fax (+30) 210 7213965,
sglycabettus.gr, www.sglycabettus.gr. Situated on the www.avahotel.gr. Ava hotel has just been renovated and 9214993, www.divaniacropolis.gr. How would you feel goldenage@ath.forthnet.gr, www.goldenage.gr. It is
slopes of Lycabettus hill, this is probably the only hotel with the impressive result puts it among the top four star hotels if you found out a 2500 year old wall was hiding under your worth going for one of its two executive suites: Glass roofs
such a breathtaking view of the city and coast. The rooms in the capital. It offers suites of different sizes that can ac- house? That is the best reason to book a room here, as below and large verandas, minimal decoration and the impressive
are pretty small but certainly appreciated by those who enjoy commodate a whole family. Probably the only hotel in Athens ground level you will get the opportunity to eat breakfast next night city view through its large windows, will make you feel
compact spaces. In terms of decoration, each floor has its offering a unique combination of luxurious accommodation to Themistocles’ wall, which was built after the battle of Pla- as if you spent a lot more on your accommodation. The
own theme. To that extent, Byzantine paintings are to be and facilities to prepare your own meals, as all suites have taea, in order to protect Athens against Spartan raids. Classic standard rooms offer comfortable accommodation too and
found on the entire 4th floor. “Toni’s bar” covers all major their own fully equipped kitchenette. This will keep your holi- luxury to be found in the rooms and a 2004 redecoration to balconies completely separated from each other, with a high
sports events and if that is not quite your style, opt for classy day budget low and will give you the opportunity to practice guarantee the hotel keeps up with modern hotel standards. degree of privacy. Overall, a good, modern and reasonably
bar-restaurant “Frame”. If you can spare the extra cash, your Greek cooking skills with fresh stuff bought from the Q 250 rooms. Singles/Doubles: €110-170, Suites: €650- priced business hotel that will do fine for your holiday too. Q
book an evening in the “Princess Marie Christine” suite. The nearby Plaka greengrocers. Internet is free of charge, there 750. PTJHAGBKXCW hhhhh 122 rooms. Singles/Doubles : €90-120. PTJHAR�
more expensive rate is a small price to pay to be treated like are blue ray dvd players and ambi light tv sets in every room, 6UKW hhhh
royalty. Q 154 rooms. Singles/Doubles: €150-200, Deluxe and the front balconies face both the Acropolis rock and Electra F5, Ermou 5, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210
Acropolis view: €240-500. PTJHARUFLB� Hadrian’s Gate. Q 15 rooms, Doubles: €130-160, Triples: 3378000, fax (+30) 210 3220310, www.electra-hotels. Hera E8, Falirou 9, MAcropolis/(+30) 210 9236682,
KDW hhhhh €140-170, 4persons: €230-270, 5persons: €250-280. com. This 4-star establishment is the ideal choice for those fax (+30) 210 9238269,, info@herahotel.gr, www.
PTJAUGBW hhhh looking to spend their holidays shopping. Situated on Ermou herahotel.gr. If Greek god Zeus’s companion were a hotel,
Semiramis Charilaou Trikoupi 48, Kifisia, tel. (+30) 210 street, the country’s top commercial thoroughfare, this hotel she’d probably be as attractive as this small boutique hotel.
6284400, fax (+30) 210 6284449, info@semiramisa- Classical Athens Imperial C2, Karaiskaki sq, has always been regarded as a meeting point for Athenians. In The 38-room establishment is located in a typical early 20th
thens.com, www.semiramisathens.com. If you are willing MMetaxourgio, tel. (+30) 210 5201600, fax (+30) this 9-storey building you’ll be offered basic luxury and a good century Athenian building, right across from the New Acropolis
to exchange central location for a stay in a truly exceptional 210 5225521, ai@classicalhotels.com, www.clas- vantage point from which to gaze down at passing crowds. Museum. A lovely roof garden and restaurant is an excellent
hotel and pop design is your cup of tea, then look no further sicalhotels.com. Ever since its construction in 2004, this If you have some extra euros to spare, ask for a suite with a alternative to going out if you feel a little tired one evening
than Semiramis. Located in the leafy and posh northern gargantuan hotel has been favoured for its class as well as French style Rococo balcony with a view of Lycabettus Hill. and breakfast will brighten up your day, thanks to a glass roof
suburb of Kifisia 15 km from the centre of the city, owned by its location. Even though not on the shiny side of the city, the Q 106 rooms. Singles: €110-200, Doubles: €120-250. in the breakfast room. Visitors are mainly holidaymakers and
an art collector and designed by Karim Rashid no less, this metro and Central Railway Station are nearby. A superb café PTJHAFLKW hhhh businessmen looking for an elegant and well-placed hotel. Q
hotel is a temple of modern living. An outright riot of colours in an indoor section with a view of the internal hotel rooms 38 rooms, Singles: €100-130, Doubles: €110-170, Suites:
and shapes complemented by top class facilities will tempt catches the attention of passing crowds. A real-size fake tree Eridanus C4, Pireaus 78, tel. (+30) 210 5205360, €200-250. PTJHAULGBKCW hhhh
you to spend your entire holiday inside the hotel! Q 51 rooms. hanging from the ceiling adds an arty touch. All 262 rooms fax (+30) 210 5200550, eridanus@eridanus.gr, www.
Singles / Doubles: €180-300, Bungallows / Suite: €350-600. in this 9-storey structure are well-sized, cozy and modern. If eridanus.gr. One of the top small hotels in the city, in the hot Herodion D7, Rovertou Gali 4, MAcropolis, tel. (+30)
PTHARFLBKDCW hhhhh you’ve had enough of Mediterranean tastes, try the Polyne- nightspot zone of Gazi. It is named after an ancient waterway 210 9236832-6, fax (+30) 210 9211650, herodion@
sian restaurant with its eccentric decoration. And if you’ve of Athens, and is singled out for its unique indoor design and herodion.gr, www.herodion.com. One of the best roof
Sofitel Airport Athens International Airport, MAirport, ever wondered what a body looks like underwater, peep in modern decoration. Hermes bathroom sets, free Internet gardens in Athens. Wooden floors, jasmine and olive trees and
tel. (+30) 210 3544000/(+30) 210 3544444, H3167@ the pool from the aquarium-type glass windows situated in access, as many beverages as you can drink and hydro- two jacuzzis looking towards the Acropolis. You can almost
accor.com, www.sofitelathens.gr. If you want to stay close the fitness centre. Q 262 rooms. Singles/Doubles: €90- massage in every room are some of the details that make reach out and touch the Parthenon. Americans and Austra-
to the airport, look no further. This is as close as it gets. Situ- 150, Suites: €200-350. PTJHARUFKDCW the difference. Try out the fitness centre, with a sauna and a lians love it here and and now the New Acropolis Museum
ated right across from the Athens Airport Main Terminal Build- hhhhh hamam. A non-smoking wing is also available. An excellent, has opened just around the corner, this hotel looks set to
ing, it’s ideal for business travelers or even those transiting value for money, highly recommended hotel. Q 38 rooms. become a definite meeting-point for Greeks and visitors alike
via Athens. The city centre is just 35 minutes away by metro. Classical BabyGrand Hotel Athinas 65 & Lykourgou, Standard: €120-170, Acropolis view: €150-190, Suites: €200- Q 90 rooms, Singles: € 90-120, Doubles: €100-150, Triples:
What is more, it’s a child-friendly hotel as it allows children un- MOmonia, tel. (+30) 210 3743590, fax (+30) 210 350. PTJHAFLGKDW hhhhh €160-230. PTJHAIGBKW hhhh
der the age of twelve free of charge. Rooms are sophisticated 3250920, bg@classicalhotels.com, www.classical-
and comfortable and amenities include two restaurants, bar, hotels.com. Dreamy hotel situated next to the Town Hall, Esperia Palace (Best Western) Stadiou 22, Magna Grecia E5, Mitropoleos 54, MSyntagma,
exhibition area, beauty centre, swimming pool, fitness centre, overlooking Kotzia square. Two mini coopers, transformed MPanepistimio, tel. (+30) 210 3238001, fax (+30) 210 Monastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3240314-5, fax (+30)
sauna, as well as massage treatments to soothe away that into reception desks and the graffiti in the rooms will most 3238100, info@esperiahotel.com.gr, www.esperiahotel. 210 3240317, info@magnagreciahotel.com, www.
jet lag. Q 345 rooms. Singles / Doubles: €150-250, Suites: definitely bring out the child in you. You can choose between com.gr. A central city hotel with an aristocratic feel. The good magnagreciahotel.com. For an 111-year old mansion, this
€360-380. PTAR6UFLBKDCW the Spiderman and the Smurf room. And if that doesn’t refurbishment it was given recently didn’t change its style hotel looks in pretty good shape. A princess used to live here,
guarantee a good night’s sleep, go for the nature room with and character. All the fittings in the rooms are numbered and but its new residents are usually businessmen and leisure
€100-180 drawings of trees and rivers and a Zen atmosphere to take
your stress away. The entire 78-room establishment is
designed by Greek rustic furnisher Saridis. Classic luxuries in
junior and superior suites are accompanied by a distant but
travelers. It’s situated right in the heart of Athens’ main com-
mercial street and yet, thanks to its baroque influences and
Achilleas F5, Lekka 21, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 outfitted with all the necessary gadgets (even condoms and nonetheless enticing Acropolis view. Well-sized conference touches of artistic ingenuity, it makes you feel you’ve suddenly
3233197/(+30) 210 3216777, fax (+30) 210 3228531, CD players). You can always get a good massage and facial rooms in case you‘re in town on business. Sip your Greek cof- immersed yourself in a totally original world. If you like the
achilleas@tourhotel.gr, www.achilleashotel.gr. Well hid- to smarten yourself up before a posh dinner in the stylish fee in café ‘L’angolo’, a typical old style upper class Athenian inviting entrance and drawings on the walls, wait until you eat
den in the narrow streets of the commercial centre of Athens, and ultra modern Meat Me taverna. Q 78 rooms, Singles/ cafeteria and try out the delicious and generous buffet at your breakfast on the 3rd floor, in what can only be described
this hotel is super family-friendly as most of its rooms are so Doubles: €100-250, Suites: €230-550. PTJHAR� its excellent restaurant ‘Athineos’. Q 185 rooms. Singles: as a belle époque atmosphere. Try to concentrate more
large that can easily accommodate up to four people. Some UFKDW hhhh €100-140, Doubles: €120-200, Triples: €150-250, Superior/ on finishing your coffee and less on that stunning Acropolis
others exchange the extra space for a balcony. The reception Suites: €185-300. PTJHARKW hhhh view. Q 10 rooms. Singles: €80-100, Doubles: €100-120.
area is tastefully decorated and the central location is a big Divani Caravel K6, Vas. Alexandrou Ave 2, MEvangelis- PTJAGBXW hhhh
plus. Q 34 rooms. Doubles: €100-130, Triples: €140-155, mos, tel. (+30) 210 7207000, fax (+30) 210 7236683, Fresh E3, Sofokleous 26, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210
Quads: €160-175. PTJAW hhh info@divanicaravel.gr, www.divanis.com. Less appealing 5248511, fax (+30) 210 5248517, info@freshhotel.gr, Melia Athens F2, Chalkokondili 14, MOmonia, tel.
from the outside, more than luxurious on the inside, Caravel www.freshhotel.gr. Member of the select club of 147 design (+30) 210 3320100, fax (+30) 210 3320200, melia-
is well known to politicians, athletes, top business execu- hotels of the world, it goes without saying that staying here athens@solmelia.com, www.melia-athens.com. A luxury
tives and various global jet- setters. Traditional luxury in the will add a sparkle of style to your holidays. It offers a resplen- hotel nearest the National Archaeological Museum. This
rooms and a separate check-in on the executive floor to avoid dent array of cheerful colours, which really do make your day. modern hotel is housed in one of the city’s old buildings,
Post your own hotel review at: indiscrete glances have always made this building tempting for
those who enjoy what others can’t have. Although, nowadays,
Inspirational decoration within the rooms, combined with all
the comforts of a respectable 21st century establishment.
which somehow survived its unattractive replacements of
the late 60s. The fitness centre, hamam and sauna are free
athens.inyourpocket.com even in this deluxe establishment you can always get a good
deal if you book early enough. Q471 rooms (427 doubles
Undoubtedly, this is the standard-bearer of the city’s attempt
to attract an elegant, exclusive type of clientele. Don’t forget
of charge and the rooms are elegant and attractive. Safety
freaks have finally found their haven, as all rooms have a
€150 - 300, 44 suites €550 - 2200). 471 rooms, Singles/ to have your picture taken under the giant bedside lamp in the safety door that isolates the bedrooms in case of fire. Q 126
Doubles: €120-180, Suites: €500-750. PTJHARU� café. You’ll feel like you’ve just set foot in Gulliver’s world. Q rooms, 10 suites. Singles/Doubles: €90-140, Suites: €220.
FLGBKDCW hhhhh 133 rooms, Singles/Doubles: €90-180. PTJHA6I� PTJHARUIFGBKDXCW hhhhh
FLGBKDCW hhhh

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

36 where to stAy where to stAy 37

Novotel D1, Michail Voda 4 & Makedonias, MStath- The Athens Gate F7, Syngrou 10, MAcropolis, tel. Arion D4, Agiou Dimitriou 18, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) Jason Prime D2, Nikiforou 3, MMetaxourgio, tel. (+30)
mos Larissis, tel. (+30) 210 8200700, fax (+30) 210 (+30) 210 9238302, fax (+30) 210 9237493, reser- 210 3216777, fax (+30) 210 3216779, arion@tourhotel. 210 5233030, fax (+30) 210 5234593, www.douros-ho-
8200777, www.novotelathens.gr. This establishment vations@athensgate.gr, www.athensgate.gr. Located gr, www.arionhotel.gr. Veiled in a back street of the Psirri tels.com. Renovated in 2003, this centrally located building
has undergone quite a few facelifts in its 19-year history. opposite Hadrian’s Gate, this classy beauty is a good choice area, this was one of the many establishments that were is good enough for a respectable stay in Athens. Small rooms
The latest was in 2007. The suites are smart and equipped if you want to spend a couple of days in style. Drink one of renovated just before the Olympic Games of 2004. You can go down as a negative, but the hygiene levels are high, thus
with the small particulars that separate the top-of-the-range the cheapest and best cappuccinos in the capital while try- tell from the photos on the walls showing off all the sports making up for the lack of space. Q 82 rooms. Singles: €70,
from the run-of-the-mill hotels. Complimentary coffee and tea ing to imagine what Athens used to look like from the eighth venues. The rooms are modern and most of them have an Doubles € 80-100. PTJHARUGW hhhh
in every room is a small yet indicative detail. The standard floor. All rooms are non-smoking and 14 have a see-through Acropolis view, which is usually overpriced in Athens. Not here
rooms are comfy and roomy but, most importantly, cozy. (from the bed) shower in case you can’t get enough of your though. First come, first served. Q 51 rooms. Singles: €70- Niki F6, Nikis 27, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3220913,
This is a super child-friendly place, as they get to stay here companion. Time also equals information, a fact of which 80, Doubles: €80-100. PTJAGBW hhh fax (+30) 210 3220886, info@nikihotel.gr, www.nikiho-
for free on condition they’re under 16. Top marks to the roof the owners here are no doubt aware, as you can access tel.gr. An elegant colourful and tastefully decorated small
garden with the outdoor lounge restaurant and the swimming the Internet even while in the bathroom. Q 99 rooms. Athens Lotus C1, Hiou 9, Metaxourgeio, MMetaxour- budget hotel conveniently located between Syntagma Sq and
pool overlooking, what else, the Acropolis. Q 195 rooms, Singles: €95-205, Doubles: €100-225, Suites: €270-340. geio, tel. (+30) 210 5249050, info@athenslotus.gr, Plaka. Ideal therefore for those who prefer walking to public
Singles: €80-120, Doubles: €100-140, Suites: €180-230. PTJHA6ILBKW hhhh www.athenslotushotel.gr. Housed in a recently renovated transport. Q 22 rooms, 1 suite. Singles/Doubles: €70-100,
PTJHAR6UFBKDCS hhhh neo-classical building, Athens Lotus is a great mid-size hotel Suite:€110-130. PTJAR hhh
Titania F3, Panepistimiou 52, MPanepistimio, Omo- with a character and a feel of old Athens, conveniently located
Periscope I4, Haritos 22, Kolonaki, MSyntagma, tel. nia, tel. (+30) 210 3326000, fax (+30) 210 3300700, two minutes walk from the nearby metro station. The rooms Omiros F5, Apollonos 15, Plaka, MSyntagma, tel. (+30)
(+30) 210 7297200, fax (+30) 210 7297206, info@ titania@titania.gr, www.titania.gr. Large central hotel, and communal areas are tastefully decorated and spacious, 210 3235486-7, fax (+30) 210 3228059, omiroshotel@
periscope.gr, www.periscope.gr. An ultra stylish hi-tech with a spacious reception area dominated by marble, gold the staff very professional and internet access is free. Family hol.gr, www.omiroshotel.gr. A very good choice if you want
small hotel in the smart neighbourhood of Kolonaki. Rooms and a few ancient replicas. The rooms are comfortable, rooms available. Q 31 rooms. Singles/Doubles: €70-90. to stay centrally and not spend a fortune. Just off the centre
are grey and minimally decorated with coloured details, the decorated for mainstream tastes and provide all standard PTJARLW hhhh of action, Syntagma Sq and Ermou St, this medium sized
ceilings are covered with photographs of Athens and there is amenities. Olive Garden, the rooftop restaurant, offers an hotel comes complete with all the facilities you’re going to
a penthouse suite with a private jacuzzi and panoramic views almost 360 degrees view of the Athenian skyline and live jazz Attalos E4, Athinas 29, tel. (+30) 210 3212801, info@ need for a pleasant stay, free WiFi included. The rooms are
of the city. Views that can be enjoyed 24 hours even from the to pleasantly accompany your Mediterranean dinner. Q 385 attaloshotel.com, www.attaloshotel.com. Basic accom- comfortable with wooden floors and some of them have an
lounge downstairs on the flat screens connected to the roof- rooms. Singles: €90-120, Doubles : €100-140, Suites: €400. modation in a well situated building. It has a seventies feel Acropolis view at no extra charge. Q 40 rooms. Doubles/
top periscope. Wi-Fi Internet is free. Q 22 rooms, Singles: PTJHAR6UBKW hhhh and the staff are polite and helpful. The attraction in this Triples: €70-90. PTJAW hhh
€150-170, Doubles: €165-190. PTJARFhhhh establishment is its roof garden, with a great Acropolis view
Philippos E8, Mitseon 3, MAcropolis, tel. (+30)
President Kifisias 43, MAmpelokipoi, tel. (+30) 210 Under €100 where we guarantee you’ll spend many relaxing hours, and
its location on leafy and bustling Athinas Street bordering 210 9223611-4, fax (+30) 210 9223615, philippos@
6989000, fax (+30) 210 6924900, reservations@ Acropolis Museum Hotel E8, Syngrou 48, MSyngrou- Psirri and the historic centre, just two minutes walk from the herodion.gr, www.philipposhotel.gr. A sister hotel of
president.gr, www.president.gr. A mammoth 20 storey Fix, tel. (+30) 210 9249050 - 1, fax (+30) 210 9249052, metro. Q 80 rooms, Singles: €50-70, Doubles: €60-80, Herodion, this one caters for more budget conscious travelers.
Athenian landmark, featuring a large reception area with a info@acropolismuseumhotel.com, www.acropolismuse- Triples: €80-100. PTJAGBW hh Acceptable, excellently located accommodation, on a quiet
distinct good old fashioned jet-set atmosphere. Avenue bar, a umhotel.com. This 1930s building was once a clinic. These street very close to the Acropolis and Plaka. Rooms are basic,
meeting point even for non-residents, stays open until 02:00, days, this modern renovated establishment is appreciated Classical 2, Fashion House Hotel E2, Pireos 2, but if you are not extremely fussy and you’re not planning to
quite often with live music. The roof top Penthouse bar and most by those who prefer a cozy family atmosphere to MOmonia, tel. (+30) 210 5235230 reservations@clas- spend all your time in the hotel (why should you?), this is very
swimming pool will add a cosmopolitan touch to your stay impersonal service. The owner’s motto is “feel at ease and sicalhotels.com, www.classicalhotels.com. Omonia will good value for your money accommodation. Q 50 rooms.
while you’ll have a true 360 degrees view of the city skyline. come and go as you like, because this will be your home for never be the same again after this iconic new entry opened Singles:/Doubles €80-100. PTJARGW hhh
Q 516 rooms. Singles: €90-110, Doubles: €100-120. the next couple of days”. A philosophy also applied to its its doors last year. In a bid to transform the square, Classical
sister hotel, Magna Grecia. Rooms designed to suit all kinds
PTJHARUEGBKCW hhhh
of tastes, with high ceilings and a belle époque aura. The wall
Hotels have turned a former boring hotel into a groovy fashion
temple, following the steps of sister Baby Grand Hotel. The Budget
Royal Olympic F8, Athanasiou Diakou 28-34, MA- colours vary depending on the floor you‘re on. Couples and facade is covered with colourful fashion photos, the rooms Cecil E4, Athinas 39, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210
cropolis, tel. (+30)210 9288400, info@royalolympic. businessmen love it here and with free Internet access and are unique and each designed by a different Greek designer 3217079,, fax (+30) 210 3219606, info@cecil.gr,
com, www.royalolympic.com. A large central five star a warm welcoming ambiance, no doubt, so will you. Q 22 and a Chanel bicycle decorates the minimal reception area. www.cecil.gr. This pretty neoclassical building was once
hotel located very close to most top Athenian sights. The rooms. Singles: € 75-90, Doubles: € 90-110, Family: € 200. What’s more: all this style overload comes at reasonable (for a rather high-class establishment, thanks to its French style
Acropolis museum and Plaka are only a few steps away PTJARILGW hhhh Athens) prices. Q 115 rooms. Singles/Doubles: €80-100. rooms and its belle époque feel. That’s probably why many
and the front rooms face directly the Temple of Zeus. The PTJAR6GKW hhhh Greek film scenes set in France are shot here instead of on
facade stands out as it combines a modern glass surface Acropolis Select E8, Fallirou 37-39, Makrigianni, tel. site: it’s a lot cheaper! You are guaranteed to experience
with ancient architecture elements and the facilities on offer (+30) 210 9211611, fax (+30) 210 9216938, select3@ Dorian Inn D3, Pireos 15-17, MOmonia, tel. (+30) 210 gangster movie flashbacks thanks to a historic early 20th
are excellent and include a swimming pool, a library, a gym otenet.gr, www.acropoliselect.gr. This is a decent three 5239782,dorianho@otenet.gr, www.dorianinnhotel. century elevator (still operational). All in all, this is definitely a
and Ioannis, the brand new rooftop restaurant set to impress star hotel housed in a typical seventies building, more impres- com. An affordable hotel packed with groups of young people distinctive choice. Q 40 rooms. Singles: €50-80, Doubles:
the Athenian gourmet lovers this summer . Q 230 rooms. sive once you walk in. Tasteful and low profile decoration as and some families. The rooms are pretty basic, but you’ll be €70-100. PTJAGW hhh
Singles / Doubles: €125 - 200. PTJHARUI� well as helpful and professional staff guarantee a pleasant compensated for the lack of luxury by its roof garden and
FLBKC hhhhh stay for those not looking for swimming pools and spa swimming pool that although not huge, will do fine for a hot
services but good value for money accommodation instead. summer day. The building is the tallest in the area and that
The Athenian Callirhoe F8, Kallirois 32 & Petmeza, Some rooms boast large verandas, an extra definitely worth allows for uninterrupted views of the whole city. When the eve-
MSyngrou-Fix, tel. (+30) 210 9215353, fax (+30) 210 asking for. The location is very convenient too, just two ning comes the roof top bar transforms itself into a romantic
9215342, hotel@tac.gr, www.tac.gr. Ideal hotel both for minutes from the metro and within walking distance to the restaurant brought to you by the owners of Hell’s Kitchen (see
business and leisure visitors. Even fussy customers will be Acropolis and Plaka. Q 72 rooms. Singles/Doubles: €60- restaurant pages) Q 146 rooms. Singles: €65-85, Doubles
satisfied with the wide range of plush comforts. To name a 100. PTJHALKW hhh €70-95, Triples € 95-110. PTJARBKC hhh
few of these, free Internet, free fitness centre and generous
upgrades. Some of the bathrooms, especially in executive Arethusa F5, Mitropoleos 6, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) Jason Inn C4, Asomaton 12, MThissio, tel. (+30) 210
rooms, are more than spacious. A fine meeting room, the 210 3229431, fax (+30) 210 3229439, arethusa@ 3251106, fax (+30) 210 3243132, www.douros-hotels.
roof-garden bar-restaurant and the indulgent Café Degli traveling.gr, www.arethusahotel.gr. Named after an com. Good for groups and medium-budget city travelers.
Artisti for after-work or sightseeing laidback entertainment, Athenian nymph, this centrally located hotel is a good choice Rooms are pretty plain, but clean and spacious and for most
stand out as this hotel’s strong points. Q 84 rooms. if location is important to you. It is spotlessly clean and ideal guests that’s satisfactory. Serving an invigorating American
Singles: €100-150, Doubles; € 100-180, Suites: € 200-250. for mid-rangers who care more about outdoor activities and breakfast, which prepares you for a day visiting the sites
PTJARFLKDW hhhh want decent accommodation for the right price. Try the café of the historic Kerameikos area, situated nearby. It is also
on the mezzanine, there’s something Parisian about it. Q 87 conveniently located for a short walk back after a long night
rooms, Singles: €60-80, Doubles: €75-95. PTJAGK out, bar-hopping in Psirri. Q 57 rooms. Singles: €60-80,
inyourpocket.gr hhh Doubles: €80-100. PTJAGBKW hhh

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

38 where to stAy
Centrotel Peoniou 11A, MVictoria, tel. (+30) 210 luxury you’re after, look elsewhere. What you’ll get here is a
8258010, info@centrotel.gr, www.centrotel.gr. If you’re clean room for a good night’s sleep and great opportunities to
not desperate to stay on the ‘shiny’ part of the city (and pay meet free style travelers like yourself. Look out on the notice
accordingly), this is one of the best value for money budget board for funny announcements like, “Fabian, call your mother”
hotels in Athens, located within walking distance from the Ar- and prepare for cool parties on the ground floor. Test your
chaeological Museum and Victoria Metro Station. Constructed ‘surviving-on-a-tight-budget’ skills by trying out Ed’s “3 days
in 2005, it is a super-clean and modern hotel with a helpful in Athens for 30 euros” plan. Q Dorms: €18-25, Doubles:
and professional staff that would be more than adequate in €40-50. PJARGW
a five star establishment. Free parking and free internet is
the icing on Centrotel’s cake. Q 59 rooms. Singles/Doubles: AthenStyle D5, Agias Theklas 10, Psirri, MMonasti-
€60-80, Suites: €100. PTJARW hhh raki, Thissio, tel. (+30) 210 3225010, info@athenstyle.
com, www.athenstyle.com. If you are the type who prefers
Metropolis F5, Mitropoleos 46, MSyntagma, tel. to stay close to nightlife this new hostel is a perfect choice as
(+30) 210 3217871, fax (+30) 210 3217469, info@ it is located right in Psirri. An old recently converted building
hotelmetropolis.gr, www.hotelmetropolis.gr. Anyone with four and six bed dorms sharing a bathroom each and,
interested in some good old hanky panky? This is the place for if you prefer more privacy (at a higher price) you can opt for
you. This is also a good choice for backpackers and travelers one of the double rooms or even the studio flats. There is a
who prefer to spend their money on anything other than a bar, free internet and a rooftop bar with a close up view of
hotel. The rooms are less than basic but then again, you will the Acropolis and Plaka. Q Dorms: €25, Doubles, studios:
get to use the smallest bathroom ever. So why stay in this € 60-150. PJAB
22-room lodge? Because you’ll get the feel of what life is like in
an original Bauhaus structure. Q 22 rooms. Singles: €40-70, Dioskouros F7, Pittakou 6, MAcropolis, tel. (+30) 210
Doubles: € 40-80, Triples: €60-100. PJR6 hh 3248165, consolas@hol.gr. English-speaking, as most
hostels in Athens, and as basic as you can get, it is located
Pan F5, Mitropoleos 11,, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 in the heart of Plaka. There are 2 shared toilets on each floor
3237816reservations@panhotel.gr, www.panhotel.gr. and no elevator to speak of. If you’re lucky enough, you’ll get
Named after ancient god Pan, this family business is a re- a room with air conditioning.The breakfast area is set in a
spectable choice. The Internet is free of charge, the rooms are pleasant outdoor patio. All the rooms are non-smoking and
not bad for the price and it is very well positioned, only a two- you’ll get to meet young backpackers, who share the same
minute walk from the Monastiraki area. Q 33 rooms. Singles: interests. Namely, traveling for practically nothing. Q Dorms:
€60-80, Doubles: €70-100. PTJAGWhhhW €20, Doubles: €40, Triples: €50, Quads: €60. PJA

Fivos E4, Athinas 23, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210

Hostels 3226657, consolas@hol.gr, www.hotelfivos.gr. Fivos is
Athens Backpackers F7, Makri 12, MAcropolis, another non-smoking establishment in this tobacco-fanatic
tel. (+30) 210 9224044, info@backpackers.gr, www. capital. It isn’t fancy and luxurious but it’s clean, and is fa-
backpackers.gr. With quotes such as “this is not a prison voured by young city travelers eager to meet new friends.
cell, it’s a host-cell”, “pay in advance and if you’re not happy According to the Scottish receptionist, who looks like he’s
you can obtain a refund”, this hostel is a never-to-be-forgotten just walked off the set of a gangster film, “this is a place for
experience. 18-30 curious Americans adore this fully non- travelers. The people who work here are also travelers stop-
smoking, English speaking joint, but if you hang out here ping over, making it easier to understand a guest’s needs”,
long enough you’ll get to meet people from all around the which means that they may have a job for you, if you fancy
world. You can always chill out for free on the settees if you staying in Athens a little longer. Travel light or choose a room
arrive in the middle of the night and your booking is for the on the first floor, as the word “lift” is unknown here. Q Dorms:
next morning. A heavy duty oven with all necessary food €20, Singles: €30 Doubles: €40, Triples: €50, Quads: €60.
preparation accessories awaits the cooking types. If it’s PJARGB
IOANNIS
Apartments/Studios
Our new Roof Garden Restaurant-Bar
Athens Studios E8, Veikou 3A, MAcropolis, tel. EP16 D4, Epikourou 16, MThissio, tel. 6976 484135,
210 9235811, info@athensstudios.gr, www.athens- info@boutiqueathens.com, www.EP16.com. Luxury is at your disposal all year round!
studios.gr. This is one of our top low budget favourites. apartment accommodation is scarce in Athens, as is rea-
You’ll be just a couple of steps away from the New Acropolis sonably priced accommodation. Brand new entry EP16 Fo r r e s e r v a t i o n s e i t h e r f o r L u n c h o r D i n n e r p l e a s e c a l l : 2 10 9 2 8 8 4 0 0
Museum and the Acropolis itself. You’ll get to stay in an hits both birds with one stone and what’s more: it brings
apartment that pretty much looks like home. Some of the a fresh metropolitan air in downtown Athens. Don’t think
delights to look forward to are flat screens, comfy sofas of chandeliers and silver cutlery, the 4 brand new apart-
and a free ADSL connection. Elspeth Geronimos, the lady ments housed in a refurbished 30s building are luxurious
in charge, wants to create an English speaking corner in the contemporary sense of the word: designer furniture,
in the heart of Athens and her studios form part of this pleasant homey but minimal environment, a location right
plan. A lunch corner and a laundromat make up the other in the arty heart of the city and every modern amenity you
pieces of the puzzle. By the way, don’t bother dropping off may ever need for a comfortable stay. This is definitely the
your dog at the kennels. Dogs are more than welcome! next Athenian super-hit for the knowledgeable and lucky few
Make sure you don’t miss out on the opportunity to get a (reserve well in advance). Minimum stay 3 days. Q €110
glimpse of the “Athens by night” walking tour, organised by for the larger apartments and €90 for the smaller ones.
Athens Studios. That’s the right time of day to appreciate Negotiable for long term stay.A complimentary bottle of
the city’s delights, with people who know where to take champagne awaits those who mention In Your Pocket on
you. Q Singles: €22-26, Doubles: €35-50, Triples: €96. booking!. PTJA6GBW
PTJAR6GW

www.royalolympic.com
Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com
40 restAUrAnts restAUrAnts 41

by brothers Mohammed and Mahmoud. Serving up traditional Bacaro E4, Sofokleous 1, MPanepistimio, tel. (+30)
Restaurant Listings Policy recipes their mother taught them while growing up in Pales- 210 3211882. Hidden in a lovely atrium this is a modern
tine, this restored, neo-classical interior - of what once was a bar-restaurant and at the same time a music stage where
Many Athenian restaurants sell a number of things like music school - hosts live music on Friday and Saturday nights. bands perform live jazz on a daily basis. The menu is a col-
décor, location, view, exclusivity and attitude, forgetting QOpen 20:30 - 01:30. Closed Mon. PAES lection of delicious Mediterranean dishes worth trying but
to pay adequate attention to their primary business: you can also watch the performances enjoying a fine cocktail.
food.
Some others concentrate on food but make their custom- Argentinean The place hosts jazz-themed art exhibitions and during the
daytime they serve coffees and snacks.There is no admis-
ers pay through the nose for the privilege. El Bandoneon B2, Virg. Benaki 7, Metaxourgio Sq, sion charge for the performances.QOpen 09:00 - 01:00.
In Your Pocket staff untertake the strenuous task of MMetaxourgio, tel. (+30) 210 5224346, www.elbando- €€. PTJAEB
selecting, among hundreds of establishments, those neon.com. An authentic restaurant run by an Argentinean
that truly respect the custom of their visitors and take tango teacher who, after falling in love with a Greek lady, Balthazar Tsoha 27 & Vournazou, MAmpelokipi, tel.
their business seriously, whether they are humble cheap decided to bring a bit of his country’s passion to the heart (+30) 210 6441215. A classic ‘see and be seen’ bar-
souvlaki joints or sophisticated expensive Michelin- of Athens. Theatrical events with tango dancers, free tango restaurant for the affluent crowds of the city, housed in an old
starred restaurants. lessons some days of the week and a fantastically decorated grand neoclassical mansion with a beautiful garden. Food is
Your experiences are always appreciated. Please post dining hall, make up the perfect setting to savour the delicious Mediterranean and priced for the celebrity clientele, but the
your own review on our website or email us at: athens@ meats and wines coming straight from Argentina. Reserva- music can be too loud for those who prefer to enjoy a quiet
inyourpocket.com tions highly recommended. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00. Closed dinner. Do not dress too casual. QOpen 21:00 - 01:30.
Sun. €€€. PJA €€€€. PJA

Central H5, Kolonaki Sq, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210

American Asian 7245938. Right on Kolonaki Square, this is the top meet-
Hard Rock Café F6, Filellinon 18, MSyntagma, tel. Kona Kai Syngrou 115, (Ledra Marriott Hotel), ing point for très chic ladies, after they’ve spent a fortune in
(+30) 210 3252758, www.hardrock.com/athens. MSyngrou-Fix, tel. (+30) 210 9300000. This Polynesian the expensive fashion boutiques which abound in the area.
There are no surprises with Hard Rocks, you know that. restaurant became a synonym for fine dining in an era when The music is mainstream and loud and the food pricey. The
It’s all guitars and jackets and motorbikes hanging from the Athenians were used to international cuisine as much as party every Friday starts as soon as the Yuppies walk out of
walls, burgers, margueritas and rock n’roll! One thing that they were used to snow sledges. A quarter of a century later, their offices and every Saturday as soon as the shops close.
certainly distinguishes this one, is the very Athenian three- Athenians have become true cosmopolitan diners but Kona QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€€€. PJA
storey refurbished neoclassical building, a few steps from the Kai remains a point of reference for the knowledgeable who
historic Plaka district. Go ahead, buy this Athens T-shirt that come here time and again to enjoy excellent food prepared Hell’s Kitchen E3, Kleisthenous 13, MOmonia, tel.
is missing from your collection and enjoy a true Hard Rock by top Polynesian chefs. As Marriott deliberately keeps its (+30) 210 5241555. This is not a typical Athenian res-
evening. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PJA original tacky Polynesian decoration, the place cannot be taurant, in the sense that it has more of a London, Berlin or
described as ultra fashionable, but who needs to be trendy indeed, New York feel, and that’s why we love it. Huge glass
Jackson Hall H5, Milioni 4, Kolonaki, tel. (+30) 210 when one is already a legend? QOpen 19:00 - 00:00. Closed windows overlooking the seedy back streets of the City Hall,
3616098, info@jacksonhall.gr, www.jacksonhall.gr. Sun. €€€€. PTJAU dim lights, open kitchen and a bar that, unlike most restau-
This is a classic hotspot for chic Athenians of all ages, the rants, makes it worth visiting even just for drinks. The food
place to see and to be seen in classy upmarket Kolonaki. Red Indian D3, Epikourou 25 Psirri, MThissio, tel. mainly consists of burgers and sophisticated sandwiches,
Serves tasty cocktails and an interesting assortment of (+30) 210 3219908, www.redindian.gr. This restaurant is with a few salads and pasta. I QOpen 12:00 - 00:00. Closed
American-style food, though a tad on the expensive side (it so authentic, it feels like it has been taken to bits somewhere Sun. €€. PJA
must, after all, live up to its eclectic clientele). Its crammed in India and reassembled in the darkest part of Psirri. You can
tables lining the pavement, with a unique uninterrupted view tell it is an up market establishment for the local Indian and Lalu H5, Anagnostopoulou 1, Kolonaki Sq, MSyntagma,
to the pedestrian path/fashion catwalk, are a distinctively Pakistani community, no less welcoming though for those of tel. (+30) 210 62 33 933. Chic and trendy bar-restaurant
Athenian landmark, even in winter. Service is very profes- us who appreciate an original Madras. All the dishes served attracting the beautiful and stylish Kolonaki crowd. The
sional. If you are looking for a stylish night out in town, you are equally authentic and you can choose between a set emphasis on earthen hues and the extensive use of wood
should consider checking this out. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. menu and dozens of delicious main courses. QOpen 18:00 panelling add warmth to the atmosphere, with carefully added
€€€. PJAB - 00:00, Sun 02:00 - 00:00. €€€. PTJA touches of glamour. The food is generally good, with an in-
teresting selection of salads and a large multicultural choice
Wagamama The Golden Hall, Kifissias Avenue 37, tel. of main courses, as well as some sinful desserts. QOpen
Arabic (+30) 210 6836844, www.wagamama.com.gr. Athens 20:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00. €€€. PJA
Habiba Astypaleas & Patission 224, tel. (+30) 210 got its own Wagamama recently and those of us who never
8673722. If you want to go off the beaten-track, brave the miss the oportunity to enjoy its fresh and delicious Asian Mommy G3, Delfon 4, Kolonaki, MPanepistimio, tel.
outer limits of the city centre and head towards Patissia. On meals abroad got really excited! The quality and prices are (+30) 210 3619682. An interesting bar-restaurant packed
the corner of Patission and Astypaleias, Habiba serves the the same as in every other wagamama around the world but with old mismatched furniture and a sixties pop-kitsch home
best falafels and humus in the city, homemade on a daily basis it is a shame that this first Athenian restaurant is housed feel. It hosts periodical art and photographic exhibitions and
in the open space of a shopping mall. They take no phone boasts of a loyal clientele of ultra-fashionable and avant-
reservations, but once you’re there you can request a table, garde Athenians who come here to enjoy lazy drinks in the
Price Guide do your shopping in the new exclusive Golden Hall and then afternoons or lively dj sets in the evenings. The small terrace
return to enjoy your freshly prepared yasai yaki soba. QOpen outside is a good option for a quieter dinner and conversa-
12:00 - 11:30. €€. PTA tion. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 04:00. €€€.
Prices are based on a good meal with house wine PJAB
(where not available, we assume that a bottle
of decent but reasonably-priced wine is shared Bar Restaurants Ratka Haritos 30-32, Kolonaki, MSyntagma, tel. (+30)
between two people). Avalon C4, Leokoriou 20 & Sarri, Psirri, MThissio, tel. 210 7290746. Bar-restaurant with a 30-year prominent
(+30) 210 3310572. A bar restaurant with long wooden presence, great flair and a distinctive aura of a stylish Pa-
€: Less than €15 per person tables and a medieval ambience specialising in mussels risian bistro, Ratka retains a loyal crowd of chic (and many
€€: €15 - €30 per person prepared in every possible way. It offers a good selection of celebrity) Athenians who are attracted by its reputation. A
€€€: €30 - €45 per person beers and you can continue your evening with nicely prepared multicultural array of dishes is available to choose from, true
€€€€: More than €45 per person drinks at the bar. Occasionally, they organise live events. to its sophisticated metropolitan ambience. We enjoyed its
QOpen 18:30 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. fillets cooked on stone, its excellent sushi and innovative
€€€. PJAE salads. Accompany your meal with a fine wine or champagne

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

42 restAUrAnts restAUrAnts 43

from its discerning wine list and enjoy your meal in an elegant
environment to the sound of mellow ethnic, jazz and classical
Greek Cretan Kallisti Gefsis I2, Asklipiou 137, tel. (+30) 210
6453179, www.kallisti-restaurant.gr. Sweet and feminine
music. QOpen 13:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Alatsi K5, Vrasida 13 (Hilton area), MEvangelismos, like its name, which means “most beautiful”, with stylised
Sun. €€€€. PJA tel. (+30) 210 7210501/(+30) 210 7210502. When photographs of flowers adorning its walls and impeccable art
famous TV journalist Stavros Theodorakis launched this de la table, Kallisti Gefsis is a restaurant that has managed to
Venti D4, Lepeniotou 20, Psirri, MMonastiraki, tel. restaurant, it became an instant hit. Politicians and fellow make its presence felt on the Athenian gourmet scene both
(+30) 210 3254504. Its previous owner must have been journalists, among others, throng here to savour the Cretan for its innovations, as well as for its refined and high quality
stunned to witness the radical transformation of this old dilapi- dishes cooked using fresh produce shipped daily from the food. Under its new management and the two female chefs,
dated building into one of the city’s most popular night-time island of Crete. Snails, rabbit, and ‘gamopilafo’ (risotto served flavours here are intense and memorable. A good choice for
hot spots. Don’t be turned off by the surly looking doormen at Cretan weddings) are among the specialties. QOpen savouring tantalisingly flavoursome Greek cuisine prepared
at the entrance, you won’t get turned away. Mediterranean 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €€€. PJA with creativity and respect for quality. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00,
treats such as ravioli and shrimp wrapped in ‘kataifi’ (angels’ Sun 14:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. €€€. PJA
hair pastry) are served in a typical Greek environment that Revaizi Thermopylon 21 & Kastoros, Pireaus, MPi-
even includes an olive tree and giant palm tree. Once you’re raeus, tel. (+30) 210 4080017. Cretan cuisine is extreme- Kanella A4, Konstantinoupoleos 70 & Efmolpidon , Gazi,
done eating, try mingling with the other well-dressed people ly en vogue these days in Athens but this is a hidden original MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3476320. One of the great
boogying to their favorite mainstream tunes. Sofas are also Cretan restaurant in the harbour of Piraeus, that was not even success stories of Gazi and the neo-taverna movement. A
available for the lazier ones among you or if you overindulged featured in Greek listings magazines till recently. You’ll enjoy combination of a Greek mum’s type of cooking, low prices
in the food department. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Fidays & all the usual Cretan fare (‘gamopilafo’, rabbit etc), excellent and a fashionable clientele, packs this restaurant and its
Saturdays Admission: €10. JB meats and real Cretan wine, plus a free welcome ‘raki’ carafe, pavement tables every single day and night. Cold lentil salad,
to the sounds of Cretan music (live on Friday evenings). Take and lemon lamb are our favourites while the house wine is an
Via Milioni H5, Milioni 3, Kolonaki, MSyntagma, tel. metro line 1 all the way to the harbour of Piraeus, on exiting acceptable choice if you want to keep your bill at really low
(+30) 210 3617196. The name of the street in Greek has the station turn right and walk along the harbour for 500 levels. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00. €€. PTJB
nothing to do with money, but the Italian version and the dollar metres. Take a right turn just before the Church of Agios
sign logo of this all day bar-restaurant tells something about Dionissios. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PE Kuzina C5, Adrianou 9, Thissio, MThissio, tel. (+30)
the clientele it tries to attract. Inside it combines baroque and 210 3240133. Stylish modern taverna serving quality
modern design elements in an interesting fusion. Its cuisine
has a distinct international touch and offers such diverse Greek Modern cooking that has rightfully earned its place among the most
famous fusion cuisine restaurants. The well known chef Aris
dishes as asparagus soup, spare ribs in plum sauce, vari- Aleria B3, Megalou Alexandrou 57, Metaxourgio, Tsanaklides uses his experience and imagination and com-
ous types of Italian risotto and American-style hamburgers. MMetaxourgio, tel. (+30) 210 5222633. Great setting bines successfully traditional, Mediterranean ingredients in an
QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. €€€. PJAB that manages to successfully combine pop, belle époque innovative way based on the international gastronomic trends.
and urban funky elements with the romantic simplicity of a Try out some of his creations such as dumplings filled with
Ethiopean beautiful terrace, the food here is equally impressive. The
cuisine on offer ranges from traditional Greek dishes to fusion
a feta cheese mousse and served with pomegranate syrup
or orzo risotto style with lobster that will impress even the
Lalibela Naxou 26-28, Kypseli, tel. (+30) 210 8652495. Mediterranean cuisine, prepared with simple ingredients in most demanding fans of gastronomy. Continue your evening
Athens’ Ethiopian restaurant. Simple and unrefined family-run ingenious combinations, with delightful results. QOpen with drinks at Tarazza roof bar, with a geat Acropolis view.
establishment offering authentic Ethiopian cuisine served 21:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €€€. PJA QOpen 13:00 - 02:00. €€. PJAB
in the traditional way. Should you decide to come here, we
recommend that you have plenty of time in your hands, as Barbara’s Food Company G2, Emm. Benaki 63-65, Mamacas A4, Persefonis 41, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel.
service tend to be rather slow. Then again, if you are at leisure Exarchia, MOmonia, tel. (+30) 210 3805004. If you’re (+30) 210 3464984. One of the pioneers of the nightlife
to while the time away and do not mind the rather haphazard looking for a bit of soul in your food, look no further than scene around the Gazi area, this well-known club-restaurant
approach to the menu (basically, the menu is more or less Barbara’s Food Company. Serving up what they like to call remains very popular with the beautiful partying crowds of the
redundant, you need to ask which dishes are available), this ‘food for real people’, this is one restaurant that never com- city. Impeccable white couches inside, in a minimalist setting
is an interesting and definitely original dining choice. QOpen promises on quality. With modern interpretations of classic leaving plenty of open space for dancing, while there’s also a
13:00 - 01:00. Closed Tue. €€. PA Greek staples and a few more experimental dishes thrown in, packed second stage in the basement where fellow dancers
the warm atmosphere that crosses service and self-service and onlookers get up close and personal. Watch out for its
French makes this one of the nicest places to eat in the city. QOpen
12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTJA
live DJ sets. As for dining here, it offers modern Greek cuisine,
served in a stylised (and pricier) revamp of tradition. QOpen
Cellier Le Bistot G5, Panepistimiou 10, MSyntagma, 13:30 - 03:00. €€€. PJAB
tel. (+30) 210 3638525. A grand Parisian bistrot right in Fasoli G2, Emmanuel Benaki 45, Exarchia, MOmonia,
the centre of Athens. Excellent location to enjoy a glass of Panepistimio, tel. (+30) 210 3300010. This is a low-bud- ManiMani E8, Falirou 10, Makrigianni, MAcropolis,
wine and a light lunch in style, after a tiring sightseeing or get restaurant that nonetheless will impress your companion tel. (+30) 210 9218180. Mani is the rocky area in the
shopping walk. The piano and a sax will add that little bit of as long as she doesn’t see the bill. Students love this place south of the Peloponnese, and many of its local dishes are
extra touch. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PJA as it gives them the opportunity to eat a decent meal in an served in this superb modern restaurant, housed in the
uplifting environment, without spending a fortune. The place first floor of a neoclassical building a few steps away from
Chez Lucien A7, Troon 32, Petralona, MThissio, tel. is bright, with small glittering lights inside and outside. We the new Acropolis museum. If you are looking for real, non
(+30) 210 3464236. A tiny French owned bistrot hidden for found the staff was in a hurry to serve us but nonetheless -touristy Greek food at surprisingly low prices, this is your
years in the now upcoming area of Petralona. Troon street friendly and fun to talk to. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. Closed first choice. We love dining here and we cannot recommend
is one of the prettiest in the city with an old Athenian flavour Sun. Closed Aug 9-23 €€. PJAB it enough.QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Closed
and atmoshere. You may have to share your table (there is Mon. €€. PTJA
also one hanging upside down from the ceiling but we doubt Ioannis (Royal Olympic Hotel) F8, Athanasiou
you can dine there) and you’ll enjoy original French special-
ties prepared in the open kitchen and French wines at very
Diakou 28-34, MAcropolis, tel. (+30)210 9288400.
Famous chef Kostas Tsigas is in charge of this new gourmet Drinks
reasonable prices. Just make sure you come early (that’s restaurant in the roof garden of Royal Olympic Hotel. Tradi- Ouzo Traditional aniseed-flavoured spirit usually ac-
before 21:00 in Athens) - they take no phone reservations. tional forgotten Greek recipes prepared with the freshest
companying seafood ‘mezedes’
QOpen 20:30 - 01:30. €€. PTB ingredients and a modern twist and a breathtaking view of
most city landmarks (you can almost touch the Temple of Tsipouro Traditional strong spirit
Olympian Zeus) make this restaurant well worth of one of Raki Traditional strong spirit similar to tsipouro
post your own restaurant review at: Rakomelo ‘Raki’ blended with honey, served warm
your less casual Athenian nights. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00.
www.inyourpocket.com €€€€. PTJAB Retsina Traditional wine flavoured with pine resin

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

44 Restaurants Restaurants 45

Milos K5, Hilton hotel, Vasilisis Sofias 46, MEvangelis- Damigos (Bakaliarakia) F6, Kidathineon 41, Rozalia G2, Valtetsiou 58, Exarchia, MOmonia, tel.
mos, tel. (+30) 210 7244400. Although you’ll find it at the Plaka, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3225084. Right in (+30) 210 3821685. Rozalia is a garden taverna that has
Hilton hotel, this is a fine stand-alone Athenian restaurant. The the heart of touristy Plaka, this basement taverna serves been around for almost three decades and is considered
strong point of Milos is its use of top-quality local produce, ‘bakaliarakia’ (fried cod in batter served with ‘skorda- an institution in simple original Greek cooking among its
brought in from around the country, including fresh fish from lia’- the deadly garlic sauce) the same way it has done regulars that include students, artists and laid back types
the Aegean Sea, which is shipped in on a daily basis. The throughout the twentieth century. Dining here makes one who frequent the Exarchia neighbourhood.You’ll be tempted
ambience is ultra modern and the clients are mainly busi- feel like an extra in an old black and white film and rightly to pick most of the fifteen starters that will arrive as soon
nessmen and celebrities, among others. Very nice thought so…the place has provided the setting for many Greek as you take your seat but don’t get carried away, the main
to offer a €20 lunch menu of the same quality as dinner but films of the sixties. Q Open 14:00 - 12:00. €€. PJN dishes, grilled meats and fresh fish look and taste equally
watch out: wine is not included and it is not cheap. QOpen good. Accompany with organic wine from the barrel and
12:00 - 00:00. €€€€. PJA Doris E4, Praxitelous 30, MPanepistimio, tel. (+30) don’t worry about the cost, Rozalia is a crisis-friendly eatery.
210 3232671. A daytime-only restaurant, catering to QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€. TJAB
Psaro-kokkalo G3, Solonos 119, Exarchia, MOmonia, a clientele of local business people and shoppers. Do
Panepistimio, tel. (+30) 210 3846596. They do serve not be deterred by the colour of the walls (who on earth Taverna tou Psirri D4, Eschylou 12, Psirri, MMonasti-
meat too but, if you come here, sea food is what you should thought of painting a traditional, old -fashioned Greek raki, tel. (+30) 210 3214923. As you can probably guess
try. One of the new breed of Athenian restaurants that restaurant pink?) the food here is excellent. You can from our recomendations list, we are huge fans of original
pay attention to the surroundings and try to keep the bill choose from an extensive menu (displayed every day on Greek tavernas serving real Greek food with no frills and at-
to reasonable levels. Fresh oysters are on offer most days a blackboard, only in Greek) that could in its own right titude attached. This is definitely one of those places that has
and a few other fish specialties are worth trying. QOpen be proclaimed a cook book on Greek cuisine. Prices are survived for decades in an area full of frills and attitude and
13:00 - 00:00, Sat 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Closed Aug dead cheap and, if you prefer to opt for sweets, ‘loukou- poor excuses for Greek restaurants. They do fish and they do
€€. PTJA mades’ (Greek-style doughnuts topped with honey) are meat and day specials and everything is simply excellent. The
the house specialty. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. wine is decent and comes from a barrel, the atmosphere is
Rififi G2, Emmanuel Benaki & Valtetsiou, Exarchia, €€. PTJNS welcoming and the staff are trying their best when the place
tel. (+30) 210 3300237. Modern restaurant huddling in is packed. As for the bill, just don’t worry about it. QOpen
a narrow street crammed with interesting culinary choices Ilias C5,B5, Thessalonikis 7 & Eptahalkou 5, 12:00 - 01:30. €€. PTJ
ideal for a quiet dinner in style. The bright decoration brings MThissio, tel. (+30) 210 34 22 407/(+30) 210 345
to mind summers on the Greek islands. To that extent, the 80 52. The hands-on consumption of copious amounts To Kafeneio I5, Loukianou 26, Kolonaki, tel. (+30)
food is quite light and mostly represents Aegean cooking. of barbecued lamb chops constitutes a time-honoured 210 7237757. Unadulterated traditional Greek food in
You may need to book ahead, since it is usually filled with ritual that has survived the refinement of the modern an atmosphere of understated elegance. The dishes here
arty types. The house wine is an acceptable and economic Athenian. In these sister traditional Greek taverns you are simple and flavoursome. We recommend the “aginares
solution, especially if you plan to drink much. Anything you will enjoy the best lamb chops in town, and an excellent ala polita” (artichokes in a lovely creamy egg and lemon
decide to eat will be a success but do make sure you order location on a quiet pedestianised street. Beat the locals sauce), stuffed cabbage leaves (“lachanodolmades”) or
the burgers. They’re simply delicious. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. by arriving before 21:00, or call for a reservation as both the lovely specialty salad, accompanied by its good quality
Closed Sun. €€. PJA places are packed every evening. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00,
Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. €€. TJN
Tirbouson A3, Konstantinoupoleos 104, Metaxourgio,
MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3410107. A relatively new Kappari A8, Dorieon 36, Petralona, tel. 210
entry, this modern Greek restaurant is run by a young man 3450288. An old house, salvaged from demolition, and house wine. Of course, this being Kolonaki you will pay a bit
Giannis and his parents and offers delicious traditional Greek its front yard have become a traditional Greek tavern more for your Greek culinary experience, but then again, the
food with a creative touch. The highlight of the dining hall (a that preser ves a nostalgic old Athenian atmosphere. pleasant atmosphere and tasteful surroundings (including the
converted workshop) is an impressive light pendant made The emphasis of the menu is on grilled meat but there signatures of famous personalities that have passed through
with wine bottles. If you are a train spotter, window tables are other typical Greek dishes on offer and the quality its doors) explain the pricing policy. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00.
offer an undisturbed view of the rail tracks outside. QOpen and taste of almost everything we tried was exeptional. Closed Sun. €€€. PJA
14:00 - 02:00. €€. PTA Q Open 13:00 - 01:00. €€. TJAB
Triantafyllo tis nostimias F5, Lekka 22, MSyntagma,
Yantes G2, Valtetsiou 44, Exarchia, MOmonia, tel. Kioupia J4, Deinokratous & Anapiron Polemou, tel. (+30) 210 3227298. Difficult to pronounce and impos-
(+30) 210 3301369. An upmarket (for the neighbourhood of Kolonaki, tel. (+30) 210 7400151. The philosophy of sible to find as it is hidden inside a small arcade, this traditional
Exarchia) restaurant serving modern Greek cuisine prepared this Greek restaurant is serving a plethora of traditional Greek taverna serves the local population of the surrounding
with almost exclusively organic ingredients. The clientele dishes from around Greece, with an emphasis on local offices. There are both meat and fish dishes prepared with
consists mostly of young freestylers and intellectuals and the specialties, in a set menu that is renowned for its lavish fresh ingredients and a genuine taverna atmosphere that
atmosphere is laid back and casual. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. servings and never-ending succession of finely-prepared every Saturday afternoon comes alive with bouzouki. Add
€€. PTJA dishes. There is also the option of an à la carte menu if to all that its ridiculous prices and you have a perfect lunch
you so prefer. Its strong point is that it offers an all-in-one place two minutes from Syntagma Sq. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00.
Greek Traditional crash-course introduction to Greek, regional cuisine in an
elegant environment with a touch of aristocratic class.
Closed Sun. Closed Aug 10-31 €€. PTJE

Ancient Tastes C2, Kodratou 22, Karaiskaki Square, Bear in mind, however, that the quantity occasionally Tzitzikas and Mermigas G5, Mitropoleos 12-14,
MMetaxourgeio, tel. (+30) 210 5239661. The theme overwhelms the quality. Q Open 13:00 - 01:00. €€€€. Syntagma Sq, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3247607.
here is, you guessed it, ancient Greece and the restaurant PJA Located in the heart of Athens, at walking distance from many
tries to transport you, gastronomically and atmospherically, top and mid-range hotels, you’ll have to book in advance un-
to the time of Pericles. To begin with, the menu itself is based Palia Taverna tou Psara E6, Erechtheos 16, Plaka, less you’re lucky. Crowded with all sorts of types and ages,
on original sources citing recipes that were actually in use MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3218733. Plaka is full of this ‘mezedopolio’ is well known for its modern atmosphere
in ancient Greece. Indeed, beside every dish on the menu tourist traps but many expats swear by this taverna’s and tastes. Decorated as an old grocery store, this 2-storey
there’s the corresponding text of the ancient recipe. Now, name. It has been operating for more than a century in establishment is ideal for a relaxed night out. There’s a good
as for the food itself, there is a good selection of imaginative an old, now restored building not very easy to find in the wine list to choose from and whatever you order will be more
and quite fruity salads, many meat dishes and a lovely stuffed labyrinth of small streets. The food is basically fish and than appetizing. Make sure you try the ‘keftedakia tis giagias’
cuttlefish, to name a few .Definitely accompany your meal with the kind of standard Greek more appreciated by foreign- (grandma’s meatballs), ‘mastelo’ cheese, anything that ends
a carafe of “oinomelo” (wine deliciously blended with honey). ers. There is live music and the prices are slightly high but in mastic, the chicken ribs with roast potatoes and, last but
QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. g it is probably your best choice if you die to dine in Plaka. not least, any pie. The salad with ‘anthotiro’ (a type of creamy
9-17 €€€. PTJA Q Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PTJAIE soft cheese) is a good choice too. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00.
Closed Sun. €€. PJAB

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

46 restAUrAnts restAUrAnts 47

Fine Dining Italian Meat Lovers

Il postino Skoufa 64 & Griveon 3, Kolonaki, Butcher A5, Persefonis 19, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel.
Matsuhisa (Nobu) Astir Palace Hotel, Apollonos MPanepistimio, tel. (+30) 210 3641414. This (+30) 210 3413440. Following the huge success of fish
40,Vouliagmeni, tel. 210 8960510. No need to Italian-owned osteria serves fresh, simple, well cooked restaurant ‘Sardeles’, the owners set up shop next door.
travel to Beverly Hills and Aspen (or indeed Malibu, New Italian food that you can watch being prepared in its open This meat-only restaurant looks like an old butcher’s shop
York, Milan and of course Tokio) anymore, to savour Mr kitchen. Postcards on the walls and flowery windows give and serves fine organic meats and local varieties of sausage
Matsuhisa’s heavenly creations. His newest restaurant the place a pleasant Italian feel, while outside tables will supplied directly from every corner of Greece. Potatoes
opened its doors in Athens recently, and became im- make you feel like you’re dining in a suburb of Rome. Its fried in olive oil are a must. Lemon or chocolate pie and the
mediately the gastronomic talk of the town. If you can position is very convenient should you wish to continue complimentary liquors will round off your meal nicely. QOpen
appreciate the Nobu experience of creative Japanese your evening in the nearby bars in this small but lively 13:00 - 01:30. €€€. PTJA
cuisine at its best combined with a superb seaside nightlife neighbourhood on the borders Kolonaki and
location and impeccable service, you won’t mind the bill, Exarhia. Q Open 13:00 - 01:00. €€. PTJAB Meat Square I4, Irodotou 2, Kolonaki, tel. (+30)
probably the highest you’ll pay in Greece (a ‘dégustation’ 2107251100. Set in a lovely converted neoclassical
menu costs €98 without wine). QOpen , Tue, Wed, Thu La Pasteria Tsakalof 18, Kolonaki, H4, tel 210 mansion, this meat restaurant offers a good selection of
19:30 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 19:30 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:30. 3632032, B. Katraki 6, Glyfada, tel. 210 8945085, carnivorous delights. We recommend the rib eye and lamb
Closed Mon. €€€€. PAUG Kasaveti 9, Kifisia, tel. 210 8085607, Ag. Alexandrou ribs, as well as the leek and cheese pie and wild herb salad
7, Palaio Faliro, tel. 210 9858880, K.Palaiologou (‘stamnagathi’). The atmosphere exudes sophistication and
Spondi I8, Pyrronos 5, Pangrati, tel. 210 7520658, 15, Nea Smyrni, tel. 210 9319146, Patision Av 58, an aura of well-mannered propriety that will appeal to some
www.spondi.gr. With two Michelin stars and a member- tel.210 8250315, 28 October Sq,Peristeri, tel 210 and not to others. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€€. PJA
ship of Rélais & Châteaux, it is considered by many as 5775133, Alexandras Av 213, tel. 210 6401480,
the best restaurant in Athens. Its French chef creates Ag Ioannou 19, Agia Paraskevi, tel. 210 6019975, Pano Kato G4, Lykavittou 14, Kolonaki, tel. (+30) 210
haute cuisine dishes with imaginative flair, catering for M. Geroulanou 58, Argyroupoli, tel. 210 9945722, 3617821. A chic and ultra-modern revamp of the traditional
people with exquisitely refined taste buds. The wine list Pentelis 73, Halandri, tel. 210 6854210, Thivon neighbourhood grill-house, serving carnivorous specialties
is as comprehensive as you’d expect in a world class 228, Rentis, tel. 210 4922960, Acharnon 309, Kato and a selection of tasty ‘mezedes’ in a sophisticated en-
restaurant like this and prices reflect the gastronomic Patisia, tel. 210 2236295, Poseidonos 2, Nea Makri, vironment. However, the glitz is matched by substance, as
experience. But if you choose to dine at Spondi we don’t tel.22940 91330 If you are a fun of the Italian cuisine, the ingredients used are of fine quality and they have been
suppose that cost is an issue… QOpen 20:00 - 00:00. La Pasteria is an affordable option for dining out in the artfully prepared into mouth-watering dishes. A classy modern
€€€€. PJAB environment of a traditional trattoria The famous Italian taverna that manages to match presentation with culinary
chef Ettore Botrini is in charge of a true italian menu that delectation. QOpen 13:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. Closed
Tudor Hall G5, Georgiou A, Syntagma Sq, MSyntag- contains a great variety of traditional Italian recipes, au- Aug €€€. PJA
ma, tel. (+30) 210 3222210. Housed on the 7th floor thentic Italian pizza and pasta, fresh salads and pastry.
of the luxurious King George Hotel, right on Syntagma Q Open 13:00 - 01:00. €€. PTJA Telis D4, Evripidou 86, Psirri, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30)
square, this is a restaurant with an aristocratic feel for 210 3242775. Rich and poor have been eating side by side
a truly special night out in Athens. The menu is a fine L’osteria Da Claudio Varnali 26, Halandri, MHalan- here for decades. Leave your table manners at home and
mixture of Greek and French dishes prepared with the dri, tel. (+30) 210 6834228, www.osteriaclaudio.gr. do not expect pleasant surroundings and fancy decoration.
best local organic produce. The dining hall has a theatrical After twenty years of success on the island of Sifnos, You’re only here for one reason: to stuff yourself with the
splendour with chandeliers, high ceilings and Greek pillars Claudio set up shop in the elegant Athenian neighbour- best pork chops in Athens. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. Closed
but we recommend you book a table on the terrace where hood of Halandri. Authentic, casual and relaxed, this Sun. €€. PJNB
you’ll feel you can almost touch the floodlit Parthenon. traditional Italian taverna attracts time and again pasta
QOpen 12:00 - 16:00 & 19:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. lovers from every corner of Athens who come here for the
€€€€. PJAUB imaginative recipes and the freshness of the ingredients: Mediterranean
Claudio boasts that there isn’t a single can opener to Athinaios F4, Stadiou 22, MPanepistimio, Syntagma,
Varoulko C4, Pireos 80, Metaxourgeio, MThissio, be found in their kitchen! The place is a short taxi ride tel. (+30) 210 3238000, fax (+30) 210 3238108,
Kerameikos, tel. 210 5228400,www.varoulko.gr. from Halandri metro station. Q Open 20:00 - 01:00. athineos@esperiahotel.com.gr, www.esperiahotel.
By far the best sea food restaurant in Athens. Lefteris €€. PTAL com.gr. Athinaios is the favourite restaurant of the Athenian
Lazarou, a celebrity chef awarded with a Michelin star and establishment. Businessmen and politicians take their (long)
founder of Varoulko, chooses the foremost ingredients Pasta la vista A4, Dekeleon 1A, Gazi, MKerameikos, lunch breaks over its enormous buffet, which is available daily
and creates a magnificent, yet simple menu. He maintains tel. (+30) 210 3461392, www.pastalavista.gr. Gazi until 17:00. Prices are not low but still reasonable consider-
a personal relationship with his guests and you’ll often was temporarily left without a good Italian restaurant but ing the quality of the cuisine, the large selection and the
see him leaving his kitchen and and discussing with them Pasta la vista is now back in new premises just of the unlimited consumption. Dinner is à la Carte, but you’ll be
their impressions. A cellar visible from one of the dining buzzing main square. The food is still prepared and served equally impressed. QOpen 13:00 - 17:00 & 19:00-22:00.
halls hosts an excellent list of Greek and international to true Italian standards which means fresh ingredients, €€€. PTJHAR
labels. A selection of daily-prepared imaginative des- simple cooking and delicious results at very reasonable
serts will ensure the best possible conclusion to your prices. One of your best choices to start a long evening
Varoulko experience. QOpen 20:30 - 0:30. Closed Sun. in the capital’s ‘entertainment village’ Q Open 14:00 - Taverna: Synonymous with ‘tavern’ or ‘diner’, a
€€€€. PJA 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 01:00. €€. PTJA no-frills, authentic and lower-priced eating-out
establishment.
Psistaria / Psitopolio: No-frills grill-house serv-
ing meat dishes.
For more restaurant reviews check out: Mezedopolio: Taverna specialising in ‘mezedes’
(entrées-nibbles)
Ouzeri: Taverna specialising in ‘mezedes’ that are

inyourpocket.com best accompanied by a carafe of ouzo

Tsipouradiko: Taverna specialising in ‘mezedes’
that are best accompanied by a bottle of ‘tsi-
pouro’

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48 restAUrAnts restAUrAnts 49

Pasaji G5, City Link Shopping Centre, Spyromiliou

Greek food 24 hrs Arcade, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3220714. This
Mediterranean/Middle Eastern centrally-located restaurant
Papandreou Aristogeitonos 1, Central Market, caters to people with urbane tastes, seasoned in metro-
Mezes (sing.) / Mezedes (pl.): A selection of MOmonia. This is a veritable institution of the central politan flair. The attractions of Pasaji, however, are by no
entrées served in small plates and placed at the meat market. A 24-hour restaurant serving market means confined to its trendy-sophisticated décor and young
workers and visitors alike since 1896. A favourite early- professional clientele. The dishes on offer are a culinary
centre of the table for sharing among friends. morning hangout for journalists in the older days, when treat, while you will be spoilt for choice between a selec-
Horiatiki: Traditional salad consisting of tomatoes, all national newspapers were based downtown. These tion of well-prepared finger-food, meat and pasta dishes.
cucumber, green peppers, olives, feta cheese and days party animals and bar staff make a stop here in QOpen 13:00 - 00:30. Closed Sun. €€€. PJA
a generous serving of olive oil, universally known the early hours of the day. If you just had a crazy night
as Greek Salad. out topped with copious amounts of alcohol to boot, Salero G2, Valtetsiou 51, Exarchia, MVictoria, tel.
take our word for it, this is what the doctor orders before (+30) 210 3813358. There’s nothing the owners can do
Horta: Salad composed of certain varieties of about the dodgy surroundings. So they made up for it by doing
boiled wild herbs or greens. heading back to your hotel balcony to watch the sunrise.
a pretty good job of brightening the interior. Salero started off
Saganaki: Pan-fried type of dish served with lem- QOpen 24h. €. PJS as a Spanish delicacies restaurant and has now evolved into
on. Popular varieties are the shrimp, or ‘garides what we would call a Mediterranean treat. Tapas are always
saganaki’, cheese or ‘tiri saganaki’ and mussels up for grabs, but don’t ask for the bill before you’ve tried the
spinach pie or the Catalane crème. QOpen 14:00 - 01:30.
or ‘midia saganaki’. GB Corner G5, Hotel Grande Bretagne, MSyntagma, €€. PJA
Gemista: Oven-roasted tomatoes, peppers (and tel. (+30) 210 3330000. This classic brasserie, a meet-
less usually, courgettes and aubergines) stuffed ing point for government officials, prominent businessmen Surreal F1, Rethymnis 12, Exarcheia, MVictoria, tel.
with rice and herbs (and optionally mince meat, and powerful media professionals lives up to the fame (+30) 210 8230313. True to its name, the setting here is
pine nuts, raisins). and luxury of its host Grande Bretagne hotel. Art-deco more than a little inspired by the art movement of the ‘20s.
atmosphere, leather sofas and immaculate ser vice, We love the eccentric other-worldly touches, such as the
Gigantes: Giant beans oven-roasted in a tomato together with the well prepared Mediterranean food, life-sized Cycladic statue masquerading as a bright neon
and herb sauce. make up the GB experience. Probably the most formal extravaganza. The burgundy red curtains and black-and-
Melitzanosalata: Aubergine salad (dip). business lunch you can have in Athens. And you’ll pay for white arabesque tapestry patterns on the walls are midway
Taramosalata: Fish roe salad (dip). it accordingly. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. between kinky boudoir and cosy bistrot, though you can’t quite
Fava: Chick-pea dip served with lemon and €€€€. PJAW pin down exactly which. Food is more than satisfactory, mainly
Mediterranean in character and reasonably priced, with some
chopped onion. In Town F5, Mitropoleos 26-28, Syntagma, MSyn- innovative dishes on offer, such as the polenta cooked with
Soutzoukakia: Spicy meatballs flavoured with tagma, tel. (+30) 210 3243786. Home made Mediter- gorgonzola cheese and pears. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00. Closed
cumin and served in a red sauce. ranean treats with an emphasis on Greek cuisine, fresh Mon. €€. PJA
Moussakas: Well-known oven-baked dish of pasta and daily special dishes, just a few steps from
potatoes, layered with mince meat, aubergines Syntagma sq. The trademark of this friendly restaurant is
and bechamel sauce. the Greek platter for two that will give you the chance to Middle Eastern
taste a number of Greek specialties (mousaka, meatballs,
Spanakopita: Traditional spinach pie. tzatziki, salad etc) at just €18.90. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Nargile Harilaou Trikoupi 50, Kifisia, MKifisia, tel.
Tiropita: Traditional cheese pie. €€. PTJB (+30) 210 8083333, www.nargile.gr. This excellent
Stifado: Type of meat dish slow-cooked in wine Lebanese restaurant is the best excuse to leave the city
and spices, together with a generous amount Mataroa B4, Kerameikou 116 & Iera Odos, MKer- centre and explore the posh leafy suburb of Kifisia. The
ameikos, tel. 210 3428312. Yet another new entry in Lebanese chef with years of experience in top restaurants
of shallots. the wider Gazi area, this restaurant’s strongest point is in his country creates a menu as authentic as the atmo-
a large roof garden with an excellent view. The menu is sphere of the place. The nargile (water-pipe), prepared by
Medditeranean with a modern twist and includes a risotto a dedicated employee in true middle eastern fashion and
made with five different organic rice varieties, fresh salads the belly dance show, every Friday and Saturday, complete
Boschetto J5, Evangelismos Grove, MEvangelismos, and home made ice-cream. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00, Sun the experience. QOpen 20:30 - 01:15, Sun 13:30 - 17:00.
tel. (+30) 210 721 08 93. For the fans of aristocratic fin- 13:00 - 01:00. €€€. PJA Closed Mon. €€€. PTAX
de-siècle ambience and for those who still cling to ‘passé’
Olive Garden (Titania Hotel) F3, Panepistimiou
formalities, rules of etiquette and other such charming an-
tiquated traditions. As expected, this restaurant attracts a 52, MPanepistimio, tel. (+30) 210 3326000. This Ouzeri
mainly older and well-mannered, ‘high-society’ crowd. That atmospheric and elegant restaurant is situated on the Glykis F6, Agelou Geronta 2, Plaka, MMonastiraki,
having been said, it must be stressed that the strengths roof of Titania hotel and is an excellent choice for night tel. (+30) 210 3223925. Glykis is an ouzeri just off Plaka
of this establishment do extend to an interesting selec- out in style in the middle of an olive grove facing directly square frequented mainly by students and some tourists
tion of dishes on offer, with a slight preference for fish and the floodlit Acropolis.There is live but subtle music and where you can have an ouzo lunch accompanied by a pikilia
seafood, and its lovely garden. QOpen 13:00 - 16:00 & a full bar to take you and your companion into the early (a plate of assorted mezedes) coming in different sizes
20:00-00:30. Closed Sun. €€€€. PJA hours. The set menu is a reasonably priced option but depending on the number of people sharing. Q Open
there is plenty of imaginative dishes to spoil you for choice. 10:00 - 02:00. €. JB
Canteen A4, Iakchou 8 & Efmolpidon, Gazi, MKer- QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€€. TJAUEB
ameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3451508. Simple east Medi- Naxos D5, Hristokopidou 1 Psirri,
terranean food in a minimal environment at the right price Orizontes I3, Lycab ettus Hill, tel. (+30) 210 MMonastiraki,Thissio, tel. (+30) 210 3218222. An
is the philosophy of this brand new retaurant (opened a 7227065. Only a helicopter can offer you a better view ‘old school’ ouzeri in Psirri that pre-existed the charge
couple of months ago). It is located just off the hustle and of the city. Here, the view will cost you a little less and of the masses. Humble but real food, fried fish and lots
bustle of the top Athenian nightlife destination, Gazi, and you’ll get dinner added in as an extra bonus. At the top of of ‘mezedes’ as well as charcoaled octopus - usually on
comes complete with a separate bar and a club upstairs Lycabettus Hill, the panoramic view of Athens will add a weekends- will perfectly accompany the ouzo-drinking ex-
where you can continue your evening until the early hours special touch to a romantic dinner. Take the railway from perience you ought to have ay least once while in Athens.
among young and cool crowds of the city. QOpen 20:00 - the top end of Ploutarchou St. in Kolonaki. QOpen 12:00 QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PTJB
01:00, Sun 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. €€. PAB - 02:00. €€€€. PAB
W

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50 restAUrAnts restAUrAnts 51

Ouzou Melathron D5, Astigos& Philippou, MMonas- Gialiskari Achilleos 119, Paleo Faliro, tel. (+30) 210
Souvlaki tiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3240716. Thessaloniki in northern 9837498. We don’t often recommend restaurants outside
Greece is a city of fine food and a relaxed lifestyle and it is the city centre unless we think that the food you will enjoy
only natural that Ouzou Melathron, one of its famous ‘ouzeri’ there is really worth a short bus or tram ride. This is one of
Bairaktaris E5, Monastiraki Sq, MMonastiraki, tel. full menu on the right and walk into the left door where you
set up shop in the capital. Convenient location and excellent those cases: a restaurant paying utmost attention to the qual-
(+30) 210 3213036. Mr. Bairaktaris, the owner of this have no choice but a kebab in non greasy pita bread with
‘mezedes’ make it a favourite among Athenians and visitors ity and the freshness of the ingredients they use. The menu
historic kebab house (and a neoclassical buildings…collec- just tomato and onion, the original stuff sold here since
alike. You may have to wait for a table (no reservations) but it is therefore not set but depends on the fish that passed the
tor!) has been feeding both the Athenian élite and working the fifties when the father’s owner came to Athens from
is well worth it. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€. PJA cook’s daily tests: ie the best in the market. And what’s more:
classes for decades. He loves being photographed with Constantinople. The kebab is top quality pure meat and
the bill will be just a fraction of what you’d pay elsewhere for
his celebrity customers and putting the framed pictures on less spicy than elsewhere but the hot paprika added on
top adds that little piquant extra that makes it one of the
Rebecca D4, Miaouli 22, Psirri, MMonastiraki. If you’re the same quality. Some regulars will be disappointed we’re
the dining hall’s walls. Its strategic location on Monastiraki looking for an unaffected, no-frills going-out experience in a giving away their little secret, but that’s our job after all, isn’t
Square ensures it is perennially packed, despite fierce tastier choices in the city. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed
buzzing, youthful environment, this is worth checking out. it?Tram from Syntagma Sq, tram stop Achilleos (about 30 min)
competition by its equivalent neighbours. The kebab, which Sat, Sun. €. JNS
Situated in the lively nightlife area of Psirri and brimming with a QOpen 14:00 - 00:00. Closed Mon. €€. PTA
is actually an elongated meatball flavoured with spices, is casual crowd of students sipping their “rakomela” (traditional
very tasty and the grease will keep you going for a whole Livadia F2, Gladstonos 7, MOmonia, tel. (+30) 210 sweet but in no way innocent drink concocted by warming Jackson Fish H5, Milioni 4, Kolonaki, MSyntagma,
day if you’re on a budget holiday! QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. 3832413. Named after the Greek town famous for its up raki -a strong spirit- with honey), the atmosphere here is tel. (+30) 210 3616098. Jackson Hall’s second level has
€€. PTJABS kalamaki this is a heavy-duty souvlatzidiko. A look in the reminiscent of a university campus bar. You will be surprised been transformed into a fish restaurant following the estab-
refrigerator with the thousands of kalamakia waiting to be to find that despite its in no way extraordinary décor, it man- lishment’s original principles: Great food and fun in a casual
Iroon Square E5, Iroon Square 6, Psirri, MMonasti- grilled will give you a good idea of the turnover of this place ages to create a lively, playful ambience and you may even American atmosphere. White furniture and navy decoration
raki, tel. (+30) 210 3218219. This is actually an address and therefore the freshness of the meat sold. The uneven have to queue for a cramped little table on the curb. QOpen prepare the visitors for the seafood feast that awaits them.
as this place has no name. It doesn’t need one as it has chunks of pork on the skewer, as opposed to the perfect
13:00 - 02:00. €€. JNB There are lots of delicious starters and mussel dishes but
been well known for years for its tasty fare among its fans cubes in most places, make them look and taste home-
the emphasis is on large fresh fish grilled to perfection.The
who queue everyday during lunchtime to enjoy high quality made and are enjoyed by most on a plate with french fries
kalamakia and meatballs served on their own or inside half and a cold glass of beer. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sea Food clientele is the usual Kolonaki trendy crowds. Prices are fair
for the quality of the food. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00
a loaf of normal bread. If you are a fan of pita bread head Sat, Sun. €. JNS
Efta Thalasses G4, Omirou 11, Kolonaki, MPanepis- - 18:00. €€€. PTJA
elsewhere, none is served here. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. timio, tel. (+30) 210 3624825. Coming to Athens after
Closed Sat, Sun. €. JNS Nikitas D4, Agion Anargyron 19, Psirri, MThissio, a big success in the capital of good food Thessaloniki, Sardeles A5, Persefonis 15, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel.
tel. (+30) 210 3252591. If you happen to pass through
Efta Thalasses (seven seas) is a modern fish and sea (+30) 210 3478050. This modern and reasonably-priced
Kavouras G2, Themistokleous 64, Exarchia, MOmo- Psirri during the daytime and feel like an authentic cheap
food restaurant with a civilised feel. It is not dirty cheap fish restaurant specializes in humble varieties of fish and has
nia, tel. (+30) 210 3838010. Feast your appetite on and delicious lunch, is very easy to spot Nikitas. It is the one
but the quality of the food served (everything is fresh become a huge success. When the weather is good it more
gyros or kalamaki, wrapped in warm pita bread and topped whose outside tables are always crammed and you may
and deliciously cooked) makes it a good choice for an than triples its size with pavement tables right on the main
with tzatziki. Kavouras is a place to savour the traditional have to wait for a while, but it is worth it. This psitopolio has
ouzo lunch among politicians and local businessmen. Gazi street, where you can watch the crowds go by and enjoy
Greek souvlaki, no niceties, no refinements, just plain old been serving the working crowds of Psirri since 1967 and
has maintained a loyal clientele even these days with the
QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. Closed until Sep 6 the complimentary limoncello and masticha liquors offered
hearty meat-lovers’ fare. If, while taking a stroll through €€€. PTJA to pleasantly conclude your meal. QOpen 12:30 - 01:30.
the district, you feel pangs of hunger and decide to look for hundreds of choices in the area. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00,
€€. PJA
something on the go, give it a try, though keep in mind that Sun Closed (July). €. JBS
good taste here is limited to the food, don’t go looking for
tasteful décor. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00. €. JNS Thanassis E5, Mitropoleos 68, MMonastiraki, tel.
(+30) 210 3244705. Opposite Bairaktaris, this is the
Kosta E5, Agias Eirinis Sq, MMonastiraki, No Tele- second of the three establishments making up the souvlaki
phone. A lunch cult for Athenians in the know. Every day, triangle of Monastiraki square. Tourists just grab the first
from his narrow kitchen, Mr. Kostas serves hundreds of available table on the street without much thought to which
portions of his single speciality: Meatballs on pita bread, of the three it belongs, but the loyal to Thanassis locals will
french fries, tomato, spicy sauce and a pickled peper on wait as long as it takes, as they insist that the superiority
top. Do not expect seating and service, customers enjoy in taste and quality compared to the neighbours is clear.
their lunch standing outside, in one of Athens’ prettiest The downside is that the menu is limited but that shouldn’t
squares. With €6 you’ll stuff yourself and you’ll feel like a matter as a merida kebab is why you’re here for anyway.
true Athens insider. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. €. JS
Sun. €. JNBS

Kostas F5, Pentelis 5, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 Glossary

3228502. In every Athens guidebook you will invariably Souvlaki: (Athens & southern Greece only): A generic term
find the world famous ‘hole-in-the wall’ Kostas souvlaki in used for any kind of meat consumed inside warm pita bread
Plaka. Don’t go looking for it as this place shut down more together with tzatziki, tomato and onion. In northern Greece
than a year ago. However (and remember, you read it here the word sandwich is used instead, whereas souvlaki refers
first), Kostas is now back in business. He set up shop at exclusively to kalamaki.
a new location to serve his many loyal fans who insist that Kalamaki: (Athens & southern Greece only) A small wooden
he makes the best souvlaki in Athens since 1950. The new skewer with chunks of pork or chicken meat used in souvlaki
premises are modern and minimal with just a tiny grill, a or consumed on its own with a slice of bread.
fridge and a sink. The only reminder of the old place is the Gyros: Pork or chicken donner meat used in souvlaki or
same old sign reading ‘No stress’ in Greek. But the souvlaki served as a merida
is top class, and you won’t need to worry about the side- Kebab: Spicy long meatballs made with minced lamb and
effects of the tzatziki, as Kostas uses plain yoghurt instead. consumed as a merida or wrapped inside pita bread as
QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €. JNS a souvlaki
Merida: Means ‘portion’ and it consists of a few kalamakia, or
Lefteris (o Politis) E2, Satovriandou 20, MOmonia, kebabs (usually four) served on a plate with a couple of pites
tel. (+30) 210 5225676. Hidden in the back streets of and increased amounts of tomato and tzatziki.
seedy Omonia square these are actually two separate Tzatziki: Traditional yoghurt, garlic and cucumber dip.
joints next to each other. Forget about the one with the

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

52 Restaurants
cafÉs CafÉs 53

Clemente G5, Voukourestiou 3, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) the marks of the extraordinary decade. The crowd is equally Home made sweets and preserves like cherry and bergamot,
210 3219340. Part of the City Link complex, this is a spot cheerful and relaxed, you are right on Exarchia square after huge ice cream servings, sweet crepes, baklava and all kinds
to watch people passing by. It has a French feel inside where all. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PJB of coffees are served in this cute little cafe just off the main
people enjoy their drinks standing, and its cappuccinos are Psirri square. QOpen 10:30 - 01:30. PT
excellent. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. PTJA Inoteka D5, Avissinias sq 3, Monastiraki, MMonasti-
raki, tel. (+30) 210 3246446. Located right in the middle Skoufaki H4, Skoufa 47-49, MPanepistimio, tel. (+30)
Da Capo H5, Tsakalof 1, Kolonaki Sq, MSyntagma, of Monastiraki antique shops, hidden behind jumbles of old 210 3645888. A small café with character. This is where
tel. (+30) 210 3602497. Famous outdoor café, where any furniture and every kind of second hand item sold in Avissinias you’ll find your average arty type sitting side by side with your
self-respecting nouveau riche Athenian wants to be spotted square this all day café-bar is a perfect stopover during your average mid 30s ladies taking a break from their strenuous
among politicians, actors and high profile celebrities. This wanders in the city. Coffees, cold snacks and sweets are on shopping spree. It’s a strange combination but, for this
isn’t just a simple “place to drink your coffee” choice but a offer from early in the morning and when the evening comes freestyle coffee shop, it seems to work out fine. You’ll get to
way of life for some of its regulars who spend hours here on electro and ambient dub sounds by different DJs attract listen to an assortment of music and, if you lose track of time,
a daily basis practicing the intricate ancient art of checking young and fashionably alternative crowds. QOpen 07:00 you’ll witness its gradual transformation into a night bar. If you
out passing crowds. Espresso and cappuccino prices are - 03:00. PJB want to stay out of sight, try the upstairs level. Lazy sofas and
surprisingly reasonable considering the location and the cozy corners are perfect for hush-hush rendezvous. QOpen
clientele. QOpen 07:30 - 00:00. PJB Kafeneio Thissio C6, Akamantos 2, Thissio, MThissio,, 10:00 - 02:00. PJ
tel. (+30) 210 3473133. This café was serving the locals of
Dioskouroi Café D5, Adrianou 39, Monastiraki, MMo- Thissio long before bars and cafés took over every last inch Stavlos C5, Iraklidon 10, Thissio, MThissio, tel. (+30)
nastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3253323. ‘Dioskouroi’ were the of available space around the area. These days, its clientele 210 3467206, www.stavlos.gr. The King’s stables once,
sons of Zeus and Leda. This is one of the few cafés under this is a lot younger and its decoration modern and minimal. It now a café, restaurant, club and art exhibition venue all under
label in the region and is situated in the picturesque spot just maintains a distinct laid back Bohemian character, unlike most the same roof. It is probably the only one among equivalent
above Monastiraki Metro station. Students love it and you’ll of its undifferentiated neighbouring counterparts. Drinks are establishments situated on Thission’s central night-time
have a hard time finding a table. Order frappé or Greek coffee cheap and if you feel peckish after the obligatory walk around thoroughfare, which is known by its name and which can
in the morning and if you hang around long enough, continue the Acropolis Rock, a light lunch comes at low prices. QOpen boast of loyal regulars. The inner courtyard provides a
with ouzo and “mezedes” while practicing your backgammon 10:00 - 02:00. PJ pleasant alternative if you’re not desperate to enjoy your
skills. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. JB drink with a ‘catwalk’ view just outside. QOpen 09:00 -
Klepsidra E6, Klepsidras & Thrasyvoulou 9, Plaka, 02:00. PJA
Ethnikon G5, Syntagma Square, MSyntagma, tel. MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3212493. A nicely isolated
(+30) 210 3310576. You can’t get any more central than from the madding crowd café, it is a must stop during your Zonar’s (Le Café D’Athenes) G5, Panepistimiou &
this. Right on Syntagma Sq, the heart of the city, this is an wandering in the narrow streets of Plaka. Coffees and refresh- Voukourestiou st, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3211158.
essential stop between sightseeing walks.If the weather ments will be placed next to the tasteful little fragrant basil A historic café that opened its doors again, following complete
is good, grab a table under the trees, get your camera out, plants adorning the tables. An idyllic setting for quiet evening renovation a couple of years ago. It has the atmosphere of a
order a frappé and enjoy being a complete tourist! QOpen drinks too. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. JB grand café, a rich history during the last century and a very
06:00 - late. PTJA central location. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PJA
Krinos E4, Aiolou 87, tel. (+30) 210 3216852. This café
Filion H4, Skoufa 34, Kolonaki, tel. (+30) 210 3612850. has been around since the twenties. Most of its regulars
Despite its unremarkable décor, this lively café manages too! Its old style has been kept intact, despite the occa-
Cafés to retain its multitude of regular customers (many of them sional refurbishments. Here you’ll savour the best bougatsa
famous actors and writers), because of its cosy laid-back (cream pie topped with sugar and cinnamon) in town. Also
Acropolis Museum Café E7, New Acropolis Museum, atmosphere and congenial environment. The coffee here loukoumades, ice-cream and sandwiches priced lower for
MAcropolis, tel. (+30) 210 9000901. Someone should is superb and so is the ice-cream, as this is one of the few takeaways. QOpen , Mon, Wed, Sat 07:30 - 15:30, Tue,
finally set an example in this overcharging city and what a places serving acclaimed Greek ice-cream brand Kayak, Thu, Fri 07:30 - 20:30. Closed Sun. PTJNS
nice surprise: it was the brand new Acropolis Museum with guaranteed additive and preservative-free. A good choice for
its two cafés. Elsewhere you’d pay through the nose for the lingering and enjoying an invigorating beverage together with Magaze E5, Aiolou 33, tel. (+30) 210 3243740. This
view and the privilege of the surroundings (the terrace tables a scoop or two (or three!), or a traditional pastry following a café became an instant hit as soon as it opened its doors a
are facing directly the Parthenon), but here you can enjoy the strenuous shopping session in Kolonaki. QOpen 08:00 - couple of years ago. Trendy and colourful crowds frequent it
absolute cheapest coffee in town (€1.50-2.50) and snacks 24:00. PTJB and its regulars prefer to sit at the bar under the huge map
and salads (€2.50-6.00) with traditional Greek products pre- of Athens that covers one of its walls. Mind you, on a sunny
pared with a modern twist. We look forward to the complete Gallery Café D5, Adrianou 33, Monastiraki, MMonas- day, it can be impossible to get a table outside. QOpen
menu they have promised. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed tiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3249080, www.cafe-gallery.com. 09:00 - late. PJB
Mon. PTJUB This is a café-restaurant and a genuine art gallery under the
same roof. The periodic art exhibitions often brighten up National Gardens café H6, National Gardens, Irodou
Aiolis E5, Aiolou 23, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 conversations and attract passing crowds. Exhibits range Attikou entrance, MSyntagma. Grab a book and walk
3312839. A large café housed in a lovely neo-classical from photography to sculpture and handicrafts. On Saturday into the national gardens where you’ll find this little tranquil
building. The tables outside are usually occupied by tourists afternoons (15:30) a jazz trio performs swing tunes at no outdoor café, with its tables scattered in the thick shade
enjoying their drinks in the sun, but the real attraction of Aiolis extra charge and Sunday mornings are dedicated to classi- of the garden’s trees. Coffees, snacks, refreshments and
is the atmospheric interior with its high ceilings and wooden cal music performed by a string quartet. If you prefer people the best cool afternoon break in the city. QOpen 09:00 -
panels. QOpen 09:00 - late. PJNB watching, grab a table outside and enjoy your Greek mountain 20:00. J6B
tea or Jamaican coffee on the busy Adrianou street with a
Booze E4, Kolokotroni 57, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) direct view of the Temple of Hephaestus and the Stoa of Polis F3, Pesmazoglou 5, MPanepistimio, tel. (+30)
210 3240944, booze@boozecooperativa.com, www. Attalos. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PTJAEB 210 3249588. This is a secret retreat to get away from the
boozecooperativa.com. This is not an ordinary café, it is hustle and bustle, right in the centre of the city. An first class
rather a part of an alternative art house, Booze Cooperativa, Ginger Ale G2, Themistokleous 74, Exarchia, MOmo- choice for a relaxing light lunch or a cold refreshing drink during
that hosts a large number of art events, exhibitions, concerts, nia, tel. (+30) 210 3301246. Retro pop has become so a warm spring afternoon. To get there you must pass through
video art projections and performances. There is a long trendy during the last few years in Athens, that it is getting the bookshops’ arcade which is an interesting visit in its own
wooden table, magazines and board games, and if you feel a bit boring, not least because of the cheap and soulless right. QOpen 08:30 - late, Sun morning closed.
at home and spend the whole day there, just step upstairs imitations of 60s objects and furniture used en masse by
to the night club, an offspring of the historic 90s Booze club. owners who in their effort to differentiate their place achieve Serbetia tou Psirri Eschylou 3, Psirri, MMonastiraki,
QOpen 10:00 - late. PJ6E the exact opposite result. Ginger Ale is no place like that, tel. (+30) 210 3245862. The best way to finish off the
every piece of furniture is an original vintage item carrying dinner you’ve just had in Taverna tou Psirri across the street.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010

54 nightliFe nightliFe 55

Athens Sports Bar E8, Veikou 3A, Makry, MAcropolis, Brettos F6, Kydathineon 41, Plaka, MSyntagma, tel.
www.athenssportsbar.gr. It’s the only Australian-run bar in (+30) 210 3232110, www.brettosplaka.com. A unique
Athens and it caters to ex-pats, tourists and all sports fans store and one of the oldest Athenian family distilleries, selling
who love watching a game of their favourite sport the right its own brand of traditional sweet liquors during the day and
way: with lots of beer and a fun atmosphere. Mondays are a bar serving these same spirits in the evening. The colourful
pub quiz nights and Thursdays Karaoke. Happy hour every bottles on the shelves covering its walls are artfully lit and
evening 19:00-20:00 QOpen 07:30 - late. PJB make the place one of the most recognisable attractions of
Plaka. Bring your camera: Switched at low shutter speeds, it
Baba Au Rum E5, Kleitiou 6, MSyntagma, Monastiraki. will produce some interesting pictures to take home. QOpen
Forget everything you knew about cocktails! This new arrival 10:00 - 02:00. PJ
is virtually a cocktail lab! The guys import directly most of the
rare spirits, bitters and syrups they use to produce their out- Cachica Club B4, Plataion 5 & Agisilaou, Kerameikos,
of-this-world cocktails. Their excellent menu-booklet includes MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3470188. Cachica is a bar
seven cocktails you ‘must taste at least once in your lifetime’. that serves up summer evenings, rustic warmth and classic
We had them all during our first visit and we can only agree cool. Travelling the world with parties that explore music from
with the statement. The place itself has the minimal-industrial different countries and genres, if you’re looking to escape from
feel of the ‘Bios’ school but most people stand outside right uber arty-farty haunts, electro-pop and hippie hang outs, a
in the heart of the city’s historic triangle. The only negative nightcap here is just the ticket. With a perfectly restored,
point is that it can take long to be served when the place is neo-classical interior bathing in soft, gold and red lighted hues
packed. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. PJB accentuated by coloured, opaque glass windows in rich blues,
greens and purples, banners falling from the gloriously high
Bartesera F5, 25, Kolokotroni St. & Praxitelous Gal- ceiling and natural embellishments, there is no place quite like
lery, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3229805. This bar is it in town. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. PJ
divided into 3 parts. A sitting room for quiet conversations,
a bustling section and, in the middle, a space for those who Capu F5, Lekka 14, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3226844.
like a bit of both. As for the music, expect nothing less than One of the two bars that have transformed this small arcade
alternative lashings of jazz, progressive, soul and hip-hop. on Lekka street into a buzzing nightspot. The decoration is
One of the hottest night spots in town these days, frequented retro-pop and the music is mainly black beat and soul. QOpen
by your average 25-40 freestylers. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. 10:00 - 04:00. PJ
PJB
Circus G3, Navarinou 11, Exarchia, MPanepistimio, tel.
Belafonte C4, Agisilaou 61, Kerameikos, MKer- (+30) 210 3615255. Different styles of people mingle in a
ameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3462054. What could easily be cozy bar that fills up every single night. Try their cocktails and
described as Nixon’s little brother, Belafonte is flying the hold your ground. You’re in for a night of pushing, shoving and
flag for the Nixon-style Doxiadis-executed design identity. up close and personal. Helpful Tip: head for the settee at the
With greys in a lighter shade, Nixon’s downtown New York back of the room. It’s the best place to be when things get
urban chic has been streamlined with clean, warehouse lines, crowded. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. PJ
Bars plenty of standing space, and a magnificent glass façade
overlooking the dark, atmospheric streets of downtown Crudo A4, Konstantinoupoleos & Megalou Alexandrou,
A Lier Man A4, Sofroniou 2 Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. Athens. A bar with lights that perfectly illuminate, Belafonte Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3477048. Wine bars
(+30) 210 3426322. This bar-restaurant belongs to the is the ultimate night haunt for the devilishly hip. QOpen are rarely found in Athens despite the fact that Greece has
select club of establishments that become trendy as soon 20:30 - 03:00. PJ come a long way in its appellation products. It was an Italian,
as they open their doors to the public. Tucked in a narrow Antonio, who finally created a minimal and chic vineria, where
street just off the main Gazi square, it has been one of the Bios B4, Pireos 84, Kerameikos, MKerameikos/ you can complement your choice of Italian and Greek labels
big hits of the last season. Although they serve food, the Thissio, tel. (+30) 210 3425335, bios@bios.gr, www. with a large variety of cheeses and hams supplied directly
place is primarily a bar with small rooms and smart decora- bios.gr. A point of reference for the alternative-progressive by the best Italian producers. With prices as low as €4 per
tion where freestyle crowds pack themselves to enjoy good Athenian youth. A minimal bar, a stage for live performances, glass, your evening here can turn into an interesting and fun
music of different genres. When the weather is good a couple a basement club hosting experimental djs and two small art wine-tasting experience. The music is appropriately cheerful
of tables outside serve as a much needed chill out retreat. house cinemas, all under the same industrial roof of a beauti- and discreet. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 02:00.
QOpen 20:00 - 02:00. PJK ful bauhaus building with a quiet roof garden with a distinct PJAB
downtown feel. Founder Vassilis Charalampidis, a designer
Alley Cat A4, Konstantinoupoleos 50, Gazi, MKer- and his team, have embarked on a ‘creative exploration of the En Delphis G3, Delfon 5, Kolonaki, MPanepistimio,
ameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3454406, thecat@alleycat.gr, multiple manifestations of urban culture’, at the same time tel. (+30) 210 3608269. In the summer or when weather
www.alleycat.gr. If cold beer and rock is what you need after bringing Athenian nightlife a step closer to Berlin, London and permits, large crowds occupy the lovely pedestrianised street
a good dinner in Gazi, then you’ll find it in this old converted New York. Its quiet roof garden has a distinct downtown feel. with the neoclassical buildings, situated in this quintessential
house. A welcome change from the almost identical music QOpen 11:00 - 3:00. PJW meeting point of the Athenian bar scene. Its loyals are neither
played in every bar around the area. Music is not too loud, the posh nor the grungey types that hang around the two
understandably as there are residences around, so don’t Blues Panormou 20, Ampelokipoi, MPanormou, tel. districts that it borders, Kolonaki and Exarchia respectively.
expect a head-banging kind of evening. QOpen 21:00 - (+30) 210 6437667. A bit of Memphis and Tennessee Basically, a happy medium. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00.
03:00. Closed Mon. in Athens, this bar draws the laid back type of characters
who don’t care much about keeping up appearances. They Galaxy Bar F4, Stadiou 10, MPanepistimio/Syntagma,
Ambariza F5, Lekka 14, MSyntagma, tel. 210 simply want to sip bourbon and listen to some good old blues, tel. (+30) 210 322 77 33.. Vintage at its best, a small bar
3257644. It opens early in the morning serving coffees and surrounded by posters of famous musicians, guitars and that has existed in Athens for ever, as reflected in its smoke
snacks etc but this place is basically a watering hole for selec- trumpets. Every Friday and Saturday climb the stairs to the stained walls and furniture. Original seventies, with not-so-
tive drinkers. Dark wood is everywhere and the long bar is its first floor to enter a whole different world. Rock legends adorn young regulars, it has a civilised gentleman-like atmosphere,
strongest point while guest DJs fill the place with appropriate the walls, while the music takes you back in time, when rock and, as such, it is not recommended for a crazy night out.
funky - jazzy tunes. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. PJ used to rule supreme. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Come here instead to experience how people used to enjoy
their evenings in an era long gone: fine drinks and meaningless
conversation. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PJN
inyourpocket.gr

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56 Nightlife Nightlife 57

Galaxy Bar (Hilton hotel) K5, Vas. Sofias Ave 46, The tram from Syntagma Sq will get you straight there and you Priza Bar F4, Christou Lada 1, Karitsi Sq, MPanepis-
MEvangelismos, tel. (+30) 210 728 10 00. Stay away can combine your little excursion with an evening of authentic timio, tel. (+30) 210 3244101, www.stinpriza.gr. A
if you’re on a budget holiday, but do come along to the roof Irish hospitality and probably the only Irish Stew you can find bar decorated with hundreds of… sockets, promising to
bar of the Athens Hilton if you’re the type who only feels at in Athens. Molly Mallone’s has been around for more than five electrify your evenings in Athens. It is fast acquiring its
home when mingling with important (looking) people, even if years and it’s a regular meeting point for the many expats of own fans and becoming a distinct presence around Karitsi
this comes at a price of €15 per drink. A classy bar not to be the area as well as locals who love live sports and a pint of square, a neighbourhood with many bars of different styles
confused with the classic Galaxy on Stadiou Ave.Amazing city Guinness or two. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PTEK that, nonetheless, all cater for selective crowds of the
view, fine cocktails and delicious finger food, accompanied city. A different dj takes his place behind the decks every
by music from top Athenian radio djs, all at the…appropriate Nipiagogeio A5, Elasidon & Kleanthous 8, Gazi, MK- evening, playing anything from electronica to house and
price. QOpen 15:00 - 03:00. PAB erameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3458534. This old and stylish freestyle. Just watch your fingers, unless of course you are
Athenian house used to be a kindergarten and that’s what desperate for a funky Einstein-reminiscent hairdo! QOpen
Gazaki A4, Triptolemou 31, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. its name means. It looks quiet from the outside but that’s 20:00 - 03:00. PJB
(+30) 210 3460901. Those in favour of an evening of drink- only because this is a residential area and many locals have
ing and hooking up with complete strangers should head for complained about the noise in the past. You might have to Rock n’ Roll I5, Loukianou 6, Kolonaki, MSyntagma,
Gazaki. In a neighbourhood crammed with bars, you’ll often wait in line after midnight as it tends to get seriously packed, tel. (+30) 210 7217127, www.rocknroll.gr. For more
find yourself wondering off into the street, glass in hand, only but that’s the price you have to pay for good old soul and than twenty years Rock n’ Roll has been a nightlife point
to return a little later to wrap up the evening by knocking back funk music and wonderful decoration. If you want to get of reference in posh Kolonaki. Always packed with affluent
tequila shots and mumbling utter nonsense to the person more comfy and intimate you might try the room to your left and pretty faces, as mainstream as it gets and relatively
who as it happened was unfortunate enough to be standing (as you walk in). It’s almost pitch black in there. QOpen hard to get in, this is a typical place to savour the wicked
next to you. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. PJ 21:00 - 03:00. PJ Athenian nightlife you’ve been hearing about. On Saturday
afternoons, just after the shops close the party starts and
Hoxton A4, Voutadon 42, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. Nixon B4, Agisilaou 61, Metaxourgeio, MKerameikos, goes on until the early hours of Sunday. They serve food
(+30) 210 3413395. In Hoxton’s industrial environment, tel. (+30) 210 3462007. It feels good to be able to take too - burgers etc - but you are not here to stuff yourself
you get the distinctive impression that seamstresses are con- part in a conversation without having to scream one’s lungs but to see and be seen. An effort to look smart will pay
stantly working behind the Chesterfield couches to shorten out in order to be heard. DJs wouldn’t exactly fit in the same off at the door. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00, Sat, Sun 13:30 -
those baggy pants of yours. Pop, rock and electro glimpses room together but this is why this “film noir” bar attracts all 05:00. PJA
in an environment alluding more to a workhouse. There are sorts of types. Minimal decoration for low profile people, with
quite a few bars just outside the Kerameikos metro station better things to do than stare at the couple on the beautiful Seven Jokers F5, Voulis 7, MSyntagma, tel. (+30)
but make no mistake, this club is one of the top hot spots of red leather couch. Tasty nibbles from a limited menu in case 210 3219225. A real fun bar for those who want to get
Athenian nightlife. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. PJ your stomach begins to grumble. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. sloshed. The owner/bartender puts on an amazing show,
PJA with dancing and singing on his everyday menu. Freestylers
Intrepid Fox A4, Triptolemou 30, MKerameikos, tel. and media staff love it here, but you’ll also get to meet ex-
(+30) 210 3466055. With its name borrowed from the O’Connell’s Akti Miaouli 79, Piraeus, MPiraeus, tel. pats as Reuters is at walking distance from here. And when
legendary London club, this new Gazi entry is of course a (+30) 210 4281110. A new entry at the port of Piraeus, you find yourself awake the next morning on a bench or on
pure rock-metal house. There are hundreds of posters and this brand new Irish pub became an instant hit with the one of the bar’s seats with a terrible hangover, just order a
record covers of the genre on the walls, a long bar, and a shipping community of the biggest harbour in east Mediter- coffee and one of those delicious sandwiches Seven Jokers
pool table and the music is thankfully far from the stale old ranean. Open all day for lunch, dinner, after work drinks, and offers in the morning and head off straight to work. QOpen
type rock one expects to listen in similar establishments. of course all live sporting events on satellite TV. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 21:00 - 03:00. PJ
Live performances organised from time to time. QOpen 12:00 - late. PAK
10:00 - 02:00. PJEK Six D.O.G.S. E5, Avramiotou 6-8, MMonastiraki,
Pairidaeza F4, Parnasou 3, MPanepistimio, Syntagma, tel. (+30) 2103210510. A completely new concept has
Mai Tai I4, Ploutarchou 18, Kolonaki, MEvangelismos, tel. (+30) 210 3210233. Paradise in Persian. Situated on taken over Avramiotou Street, a tiny, little road hidden just
tel. (+30) 210 7258306. This is a good choice for Kolonaki Karitsi Square, the owners of this bar seem to have a dis- off Athinas Street. Once the haunt of skaters and general
beginners in the sense that it doesn’t feel as exclusive as tinct preference for black music. Perhaps that’s their image night-time shenanigans with four different bars offering
other establishments in the area, (without of course being of the afterlife. A room filled with indie-style furniture and up four very different identities, 6 D.O.G.S has taken over
completely laid back). Typical Kolonaki crowds enjoy early James Brown effigies singing “it’s too funky in here”. Should with a bar, an events space as well as a gallery. Hosting a
and late drinks: the after work ones, and those who come in you decide to go out late, past metro opening hours, don’t mixture of live and electronic musical events and parties
later, with a certain number of regulars ‘working’ both ‘shifts’. worry. Driving there is also an option, courtesy of an exten- practically on a daily basis, this is one street that’s always
If too much socialising makes you hungry, there is a Greek sive parking lot situated right next to Pairidaeza. QOpen got something going on. Good times to be had. QOpen
Mediterranean selection of dishes to choose from. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PJ 22:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. PJEB
11:00 - 02:00. JB
Pop E5, Kleitiou 10, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 Swing A4, Iakchou 8 & Efmolpidon, MKerameikos,
Micraasia A4, Konstantinoupoleos 70, Gazi, MKer- 3220650. Imagine fitting a bar in your corridor. That’s how tel. (+30) 210 3451508. It seems that the team behind
ameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3469139, www.micraasia. narrow Pop is, situated in the city centre opposite a shoe other iconic success stories in the Athenian nightlife are
gr. A old neoclassical house, just off the main bar square shop that in the evening suffers tens of young people sprawled up to something similar in the Gazi Area. A cool and cosy
of Gazi, belonging to the owner’s family since they moved on its doorstep. Why should you go to a bar that probably bar, and a tastefully decorated club upstairs make up what
to Athens from Asia minor in 1926, is now converted into doesn’t have the space to accommodate your entire group we’d bet is the next hotspot in Gazi. Different DJs every
a 3 level atmospheric nightspot. A ground floor bar playing of friends within its premises? Because this is where you’ll evening fill the place with tunes ranging from swing to soul,
funky tunes, a first floor bistro with small rooms and flowery get to savour the finest margueritas in town, to the sounds and they have tango and milonga classes every Wednesday
wallpapers and an open air terrace (when weather permits) of Pulp and the rest of Brit-Pop hits. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. afternoon. QOpen . Closed Mon. PJK
with an ethnic feel. The whole experience is completed with Aug closed PJ
Mediterranean food coming in small tapas portions, nargile Tapas Bar A4, Triptolemou 44, Gazi, MKerameikos,
and live dance show every Friday evening. The bar hosts Potopolion Panormou 113, Ampelokipoi, MPanormou, tel. (+30) 210 3471844. The Iberian peninsula in the
interesting photographic exhibitions of new and famous art- tel. (+30) 210 6911672. Potopolio was the pioneer in an heart of Athens. Start off with interesting Spanish nibbles in
ists. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. PJ attempt to kick off a new nightlife district: Panormou Street. the small dining area and end up knocking back the great-
A wild-west touch, with wood used as the key decorating est mai tais you’ve tasted since your last trip to Madrid.
Molly Malone’s Yiannitsopoulou 8, Glyfada, tel. (+30) element. It’s crowded most evenings and among its fans are Funky Tapas bar used to be low profile and selective, but
210 8944247, www.mollymalones.gr. Come the spring, mainly students and alternative types. Fun begins around 8 the owners probably thought their setting was big enough
the Athenians just love to spend their evenings down the o’clock in the evening and the music is basically rock. QOpen to merit a change. They may have to think again. QOpen
coast, in and around the southern seaside suburb of Glyfada. 17:00 - 02:00. PJB 21:00 - 03:00. PJA

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

58 nightliFe
The Art Foundation (TAF) D5, Normanou 5, Monas- night cap, no need to leave early as this neo-baroque venue
tiraki, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3238757, www. is a full scale club too. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon.
theartfoundation.gr. Established in 2008, TAF is a relatively €€€€. PJAK
new kid on the Monastiraki block, a refreshing and creative
endeavour that puts all other art-cum-bar establishments Cubanita D4, Karaiskaki 28, Psirri, MMonastiraki, tel.
to shame. An outdoor bar situated in the courtyard of an (+30) 210 3314605. This night club has been around for
exquisitely rundown neoclassical building dating back to 1870, many years but it hasn’t lost any of its Cuban finesse and
the soothing sound of jazz, cool lighting and lovingly-tended atmosphere. Cuban bands perfom on its live stage and its
plants make for a vibrant and intellectual atmosphere that regulars are the fun loving Athenians of all ages. Dress up, get
attracts the crème-de-la-crème of the Athenian crowd. One into the mood and shake your hips to the Caribbean rhythms.
of the best bars Athens has to offer, a nightcap here brings QOpen 22:30 - 04:00. Closed Mon. PJE
together fine art and even finer conversation. QOpen 19:00
- 01:00. J6B Island 27th km Athens - Sounio road, Varkiza, tel. (+30)
210 8925000. This classic summer nightclub could not be
The James Joyce D5, Astigos 12, Monastiraki, called anything else. If you like being among well dressed,
MMonastiraki, Thissio, tel. (+30) 210 3235055, fax tanned, good-looking people and are willing to drive or take
(+30) 210 3235070, This is precisely what was missing a 40 minutes taxi ride down the coast of Athens, you’ll be
from the Athenian scene: A typical Irish pub. All major sports rewarded with a wonderful seaside setting and feel like you
events are covered and every weekend and some week nights spend one of your Athens nights on a real island. The food is
artists from around Europe perform live. The decoration is Mediterranean and pricey but you can come just for drinks,
unpretentious and tasteful: dark wood, barrels, porcelain and in which case you shouldn’t arrive before midnight. QOpen
books. The interesting black n’ white liquor trade photos add 21:00 - 04:00. Opens in May. €€€€. ABK O
an extra touch to the whole drinking ritual. If your stomach
begins to complain, order, what else? Fish n’chips. QOpen Second Skin A4, Konstantinopoleos 78 and Iera Odos,
12:00 - 02:00. PJA6IEB Keramikos, MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 6974140013,
www.secondskinclub.gr. If you’ve got an insatiable need
Toy Bar F4, Karitsi 10, MPanepistimio/ Syntagma, tel. to dress up in black leather and strut your stuff like a main
(+30) 210 3311555. This is a small bar that pioneered the character in a Goth fantasy, then Second Skin is the place for
nightlife scene around Karitsi Square. A classic already, it you. A seriously seductive club catering for the darker souls
encompasses three distinctive bars within the same estab- among us, this is one place girls (and boys) can let their (Goth)
lishment: In the morning, it serves coffee and sandwiches, hair down. The upper floor’s electro dance floor is perfect for
in the late afternoon, it attracts professionals for after work dirty hip-shaking (Fri-Sat), while the ‘catacomb’ downstairs
drinks while, in the evening, it transforms itself into a lively provides a more intimate setting. QOpen 23:00 - late.
and perennially packed bar with a loyal clientele that flocks Closed Mon, Sun. PJ
here to enjoy delicious cocktails and listen to excellent music
of different genres, depending on the resident dj. One of our Venue A5, Pireos 130, MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210
favourites. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. Closed 3411410, www.venue-club.com. A typical Athenian mega-
Aug 9-18 PJA6 club hosting celebrity DJs from around the world. Mainstream,
posey crowds is the norm, whith exceptions depending on
Tribeca G3, Skoufa 46, Kolonaki, MPanepistimio, tel. the guest DJ There are three separate sitting areas, the
(+30) 210 3623541. Young flirty professionals gather here main one for the commoners, a VIP and a super exclusive
for after-work drinks to see and be seen by their peers. Music one behind the DJ booth, just to remind us that when it
is mainstream, drinks are good but if you arrive dressed as if comes to nightlife we’re not all the same. QOpen , Fri, Sat
coming straight from the beach, souvlaki-gyros in hand, you 22:00 - 05:00. PJ
will definitely raise a few eyebrows. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00.
PJA Villa Mercedes A5, Andronikou & Tzaferi 11, Rouf,
MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3422606. Mainstream as
Trova E4, Vlahava 9, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 they get, posey as they get and summery as they get, this
3224896, www.trova.gr. A lovely narrow art nouveau grand club will give you a good taste of a typical Athenian night
building hidden just off Athinas St has been transformed into among pretty and wealthy faces. Make an effort to dress
an authentic Cuban corner complete with a small live stage up a bit, beach look will not get you pass the bouncers, and
where jazz and funk bands often perform. Every last detail has arrive after midnight, unless you come for dinner. QOpen
been taken care of and an early visit is advisable to savour 21:00 - 04:00.
the fine atmosphere. If you arrive late the chances are that
you will have to enjoy your drink outside in the narrow street Vinilio Ribas Club, Varkiza, tel. 210 9655555, www.dis-
but that doesn’t matter as you’ll be among truly hip crowds. covinilio.com. Fancy a trip to the 70s: disco balls, black neon
QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. PJEB lights, the works? This is the city’s only original discoteque
and when we say original we mean it. The music is the exact
Clubs 60s 70s and 80s hits you’d expect and it’s strictly from
vinyl records! It’s only natural that there aren’t many teens
Baraonda Tsocha 43, MAmpelokipi, tel. (+30) 210 among the regulars but what do teens know about good old
6444308. A luxurious club-restaurant located behind “Leo- fashioned fun? QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00. PJ
foros” Stadium, old home to Panathinaikos FC. Businessmen,
politicians and plain showoffs are often spotted here. It might
be a little hard to get in if you’re not appropriately dressed, but
don’t worry about being turned away if you wear sneakers. Post your own nightlife review at:
If they are made by Ferrari that is! Dimmed lighting inside
prevents you from taking a closer look at your dinner. Don’t
worry; it’s all wholesome and elegantly presented on your
athens.inyourpocket.com
plate. If you worry about finding another parking spot for a

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com

60 nightliFe

Sexy Athens Adult Entertainment

Alcatraz Syngrou 137, tel. (+30) 210 9316417, www.
alcatraz.gr. Some tables are just a breath away from the
dancefloor, but if you’re not lucky enough to get one of them,
you can watch the show - which is the strong point of this club
- on the plasma screens too. QOpen 23:30 - 06:00.

Baby Gold Syngrou 140, tel. (+30) 210 9228902/(+30)

210 9235576, www.babygold.gr. The music is really loud
in here and if you forget about the naked beauties all around,
you could easily mistake it for a dance club. Things can get re-
ally hot (and expensive) if you opt for a private lapdance. Avoid
it Fridays and Saturdays and better stick to beer. QOpen
23:30 - 06:00. Admission fee: €15 (one drink included).

Baby O Pireos 171, tel. (+30) 210 3477744, www.

baby-o.gr. One of the oldest strip clubs in town, with a really
funny DJ whose comments are unfortunately only in Greek!
The shows performed by the girls get really hot. Try to get
Athens is not a European sex destination. However, as a one of the tables next to the dancefloor, you won’t regret it.
big city, it certainly offers a range of sinful pleasures to its Otherwise, the large sofas are roomy enough for all of you
locals and visitors. The legal part of prostitution caters to plus the ladies you’ll invite for drinks (€20). Lap dance: €10
the lower end of the market. Brothels are concentrated in QOpen 23:30 - 06:00. Admission fee: €15.
certain areas of the city such as Metaxourgeio or around
Filis St. and are usually seedy establishments housed in Diammond Dolls Syngrou 237, tel. (+30) 210
old buildings that can be distinguished by a simple light 9421264, www.penthhouseclub.gr. Some of the girls in
bulb placed at the entrance, which is lit even during the this club could easily be Playboy bunnies but the manage-
day. The ladies in most of these have seen better days ment is not content with them alone and from time to time
and the prices are accordingly low (€20-€30). calls in international celebrity showgirls to keep the regulars
As for illegal prostitution, the cheaper end of the spec- on the alert. A private dance upstairs will set you back €50.
trum is basically composed of street workers that can be Drinks cost €11, table dance €12 QOpen 23:30 - 06:00.
found during night hours along Solonos St. and around Admission fee: €15.
Theatrou Sq. and Evripidou St. just off the Psirri nightlife
district. The latter ones are mostly good looking African Grand Ritorno K5, Michalakopoulou 52, MMegaro
girls, illegal immigrants who work the streets for little Mousikis, tel. (+30) 210 7245233, www.grandritorno.
money and very often face organised police raids and gr. A large number of mostly stunning dancers will happily
disappear for a few hours in the back streets of the area. join you for a drink (€20-30) or tabledance for you (€10-50).
Be aware that these girls do not necessarily undergo any The regular shows during the night aren’t exeptional but the
medical examinations, which their counterparts in the service is polite and the drinks passed our quality tests.
legal brothels are legally bound to undertake. The higher QOpen 23:30 - 06:00. Admission fee: Week nights: €10,
end of the market is naturally made up of call girls that Weekends: €15 (one drink included).
publicise their services in many Greek newspapers, thinly
disguised as soul mate ads. One of these (foreign) ladies’ Mousses Club Poseidonos 30, Kallithea, tel. (+30) 210
hourly visit rates will set you back at least €100. 9413079, www.mousses.gr. This club has been around
For those with more…‘particular’ tastes, every night for more than a decade and inevitably has had its ups and
along the right hand by-street of Syngrou Avenue (running downs. It is located a bit further out of the centre, on the way
from the centre of the city down towards Piraeus), boys to Piraeus but they can arrange a taxi lift from your hotel and
dressed as girls (transvestites) take up their posts and back. They also offer 20% discount to tourists, so you call it
wait for their clients. Prices negotiated on the spot. a bargain. QOpen 23:30 - 06:00. Admission fee: €10, (one
Of course there is always the pure entertainment option: drink included).
you can head for one of the numerous strip clubs that
spring up in the city like mushrooms, where foreign girls
will table-dance for you or just keep you company if you S tar te d a few years
buy them an (expensive) drink (do not expect much more ago by a small group
than this). Most of these clubs have an ongoing dance of activists, it has al-
show, some quite explicit. Fortunately, you only pay for ready become a regular
what you get and there aren’t frequent cases of ripping annual meeting/party/
off like it happens in many other European capitals. demonstration of the
(Owners wouldn’t want to push their luck, as these clubs homosexual community
although tolerated aren’t exactly legal). That is not to say of the city. It has some
that what you get is cheap. Your entrance with one drink way to go to become a
costs €10-15, a table dance of 2-3 minutes €10-15 and world class event no doubt, but it is getting bigger year
the ladies’ drinks €20 or more. Most gentlemen’s clubs, after year and is a good poke in the eye of the conserva-
as is their self-professed title, are to be found on both tive Greek society. Music, dance and a lot of fun in the
sides of Syngrou Avenue and are easily recognisable by centre of the city.
their bright neon signs, but you can find them elsewhere
in town too. Your hotel receptionist will probably be able June 5 2010, Klafthmonos Sq, MPanepistimio,
to point you to one of them.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com

62 gAy Athens
Athens is by no means New York, Berlin or Amsterdam when
it comes to homosexuality. It has, however, come a long way
during the last ten years, more though on the entertainment
Saunas
side of things rather than on the actual acceptance of homo- Alexander Sauna A4, Megalou Alexandrou 134,
sexuality. It seems that the gay community of the city takes Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 6980282/(+30)
a less assertive approach than gay people in other western 6936959134, www.alexandersauna.com. A gay meeting
countries do. This is because Greek society is still overarch- point of European standards and great attention to hygiene
ingly conservative, dominated by the Greek Orthodox Church, and service. There is a large and cruising area and a cozy patio
which still adamantly opposes the introduction of same-sex and the friendly staff provide high quality service. Theme days,
marriages in Greece. As a visitor, though, you tend to be looking events and happenings guarantee endless fun for the cold
to have a good time rather than resolve the hang-ups of Greek and rainy winter days and nights. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00, Fri
society and you won’t find yourself short of a wide array of gay 17:00 - 08:00, Sat 16:00 - 08:00, Sun 16:00 - 03:00. Admis-
bars, clubs and, what’s more, gay restaurants to choose from. sion fee: €15, W/E happy hour 16:00-17:00: €10. Three visits
As for our list, there are many more places frequented by gay tourist pass: €35. PJDC
and lesbians than those who actually call themselves so and
can be readily identified as gay. Here you’ll find a list of some Flex Gym E4, Polyklitou 6, MMonastiraki, tel. 210
classics but if you’re looking for more diversity you can always 3210539. Gym and sauna under the same roof in the cen-
head to the Gazi district and follow the crowds. tre of the city. 3 saunas, 2 jacuzzis, a steam room and 100
sqm gym, will keep you busy for hours. A new ‘military style’
Cafés floor with a relax area just opened last May. They also offer
free solarium and internet in a spotlessly clean environment.
Blue Train Café Konstantinoupoleos 84, Gazi, MKer- QOpen 14:00 - 03:00, weekends 14:00-08:00. Admission
ameikos, tel. 210 3460677. This is a romantic bar and fee: €15, Happy hour: €10. PJRD
its outdoor tables boast of a hard to beat décor: Real trains
passing by every so often! Perfect for early drinks but you
may find yourself still lingering at its tables long after the last
Bars
sleeper train has departed to the north. QOpen 20:00 - Big A4, Iera Odos 67 & Falesias, Gazi, MKerameikos,
03:00. PJB tel. 6946 282845, www.bigbarathens.gr. Athenian bears
found their favourite hang out in this friendly and unassuming
Myrovolos C3, Giatrakou 12, Avdi Sq, Metaxourgio, bar, appropriately located just off Gazi and the model-faced
MMetaxourgio, tel. 210 5228806. A favourite lesbian and bodied gay crowds that frequent the district’s bars. Drinks
all-day hangout tucked away in a lovely hidden square that are cheap, the atmosphere is friendly and there are frequent
gives you the feeling of a small country town. There is food events and parties. Every Tuesday is Greek night and every
on offer if after a few coffees or drinks you’re having such a Thursday rock QOpen 22:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon. PJ
relaxing time that you’re too lazy to move on. QOpen 11:00
- 03:00. PB Granazi F8, Lebesi 20, Makrigianni, MAcropolis, tel.
210 9244185. Granazi opened its doors as a gay bar back in
Clubs an era when gay bars in Athens were as frequent as elephants.
More than two decades later it still entertains the Athenian
Kazarma A3, Konstantinopoleos 84 (1st floor), Gazi, gay community, but is popular with slightly older crowds. Greek
MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3460667. A small but vibrant music is the norm here and it is very conveniently located if
gay club with a youthful and sexy clientele of all ages and walks you want to continue your night dancing in Lamda, just a few
of life. The music is mainstream (every Thursday is Greek night) steps away. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. PJ
and as soon as the weather permits its superb roof garden
becomes one of the top gay meeting points in the city. QOpen Noiz A4, Efmolpidon & Konstantinoupoleos, Gazi, MKer-
23:00 - late. Closed Mon, Tue. PJB ameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3224771, www.noizclub.gr. A
warm and friendly girls’ bar brought to you by a pioneer team
Lamda Club F8, Lebesi 15, MAcropolis, tel. 210 in the gay and lesbian nightlife scene of Athens. The atmo-
9224202. This gay dance club has been around for long sphere is cozy and flirty and you’ll immediately make friends
enough to be considered a classic. Ground floor is no different with the welcoming staff and customers. Music is mixed and
to any other dance club but things can get sizzling hot in the there are frequent happenings making this bar a top nightlife
basement darkroom. Music is mainstream and Greek and they destination. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. PJ
hold frequent events like competitions, lotteries etc. QOpen
23:30 - 05:00. PJ
Restaurants
S-Cape Army Academy A4, Megalou Alexandrou 139, Sapfo C3, Megalou Alexandrou 35, Metaxourgio,
Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. 210 3411003, www.s-cape. MMetaxourgio, tel. 210 5236447. Originating in Lesbos
gr. A large club with an army theme and a strong presence island, home of the legendary ancient Greek poetess of
in the gay nightlife scene. It consists of two separate rooms, Sapphic love, this restaurant has brought the atmosphere
an outdoors cocktail lounge open in the weekends, and an of Eressos right to the centre of Athens. Old summer friends
indoors club where you can dance the night away among its reunite to enjoy delicious specialities from the island and a
young regulars. The music is mainstream-dance.(Thursdays large selection of ouzo. There is an eastern feeling to this
are Greek nights) QOpen 22:00 - 04:00.PJ restaurant with an abundance of Turkish elements in the
decoration, an influence that extends to the food and music.
Sodade A4, Triptolemou 10, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. Prices are really low for the quality of the food and the service.
210 3468657. Pretty young faces and pure dance music QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon €€. PJB
make this place one of the most popular ‘straight friendly’
clubs in town. Both its rooms are packed during weekends www.gaygreece.gr / www.lesbian.gr
and the party doesn’t stop till early morning hours. QOpen
23:30 - 06:00. PJ www.athenspride.eu

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com

64 whAt to see whAt to see 65

Acropolis of Athens , MAcropolis, tel. 210 3210219.

Monuments & Archaeological Sites Set in a site covering 30,000 sq.m., the Acropolis of Athens www.theotheracropolis.com
is a perfect example of how ancient architecture was adapted
to a natural site to form what has become a model worldwide The Acropolis of Athens has been many things other than
and down the ages. It was the ancient city’s most important what we have learned to believe. The collective behind
religious centre and its monuments, (the Parthenon, the the ‘www.theotheracropolis.com’ project, tries to intro-
Erechtheion, the Propylaea -the monumental entrance to the duce us to the different faces, roles and identities of the
Acropolis- and the small Temple of Athena Nike) have become sacred rock through the centuries. They want to take our
an important symbol of ancient Greece’s bequest to Europe perception of the site away from the stereotypical tourist
and the world.The first signs of occupation on the ‘sacred experience and “undermine the monolithic discourse on
rock’ of the Acropolis date back to the Neolithic period (2nd the Acropolis as an exclusively classical site”.
millennium BC). In Mycenaean times (1200-1100BC) it was
the seat of the king, whose palace stood roughly where the An extremely interesting photo blog worth checking out
Erechtheion was built many centuries later. After the 11th before the obligatory visit, especially for those who like
century BC until the end of Antiquity, it was home to the cult to go a bit deeper than the surface.
of Athena, patron goddess of the city that took her name.
There, Athena was worshipped at majestic temples, brilliant
buildings and a vast number of votive monuments. The most 6th Century BC, was the site of the Great or City Dionysia
renowned were built in the second half of the 5th century celebrations. Here too was the theatre of Dionysus, one of
BC, when Athens took a lead among the ancient world’s city the world’s most ancient theatres, where the works of the Ae-
states, following important victories against the Persians schylus, Sophocles and Euripides were performed. The same
and the establishment of Democracy. In the golden age that archaeological area is also home to the Odeion of Pericles,
followed, thought and art flourished, and an exceptional group ancient Athens’ first roofed building for musical contests,
of artists made the ambitious plans of Athenian statesman the sanctuary of the healing god Asklepius founded in the
Pericles reality, under the guidance of the sculptor Pheidias. 5th century BC, the Stoa given to the city in 160 B.C. by the
The most important monuments were built during that time: king of Pergamon, Eumenes II, various monuments donated
the Parthenon, built by Ictinos (447-432BC), the Erechtheion, by sponsors of theatrical performances such as the Monu-
with its shrines to Athena Polias and Poseidon-Erechtheus and ment of Lysicrates, and the Odeion of Herodus Atticus, built
the porch adorned with the famous Caryatids hand-maidens in the 2nd century AD. With the predominance of Christianity,
Ancient Athens by J Buhlmann (421-406BC), the Propylaea - the monumental entrance to the especially during the 5th century AD, many buildings on the
Acropolis designed by Mnesicles (437-431BC) - and the small South Slope were reconsecrated as Christian monuments.
ambitious urban planning projects ever. This has seen the temple of Athena Nike (421-407BC). QOpen 08:30 - 15:00. The East Slope is dominated by the cave of Aglauros, where
Athens is known the world over for its ancient monuments Admission: €12, Concessions: €6 (4 day pass). the Athenian youths (ephebes) took the oath to protect the
creation of 3-km long pedestrian walkway-archaeological
- and no visit to the city would be complete without seeing sanctuaries and sacred institutions of the city. One of the
park in the centre of the densely inhabited modern city, with
its most iconic landmark, the Acropolis. Dating back to The Slopes of the Acropolis D6,D7,E7, The 70,000 most important monuments of the North Slope is the spring
whole areas (such as the East, West and North Slopes of
the 5th century BC, the Acropolis is made up of the Par- sq.m. archaeological site of the Slopes of the Acropolis of Klepsydra, in front of which ran the last section of the
the Acropolis, the Western Hills and the Library of Hadrian)
thenon, the Erechtheion, the Temple of Athena Nike extends around the Sacred Rock of the Acropolis. After Panathenaic Way. On this side of the rock there are three cave
restored and now open to visitors.
and the Propylaea, and embodies the highest ideals of the Acropolis itself, the Slopes were the most important sanctuaries dedicated to the cults of Pan, Zeus and Apollo, the
In all, the pedestrianised site covers more than 1,000,000
Ancient Athens - harmony, beauty, proper measure, liberty, religious centre of ancient Athens. The sanctuary of Dio- cave with the Mycenaean spring, the sanctuary of Aphrodite
sq.m. The project won 3rd prize (Diploma) in the ‘Conser-
knowledge, virtuous competition and democracy. nysus Eleuthereus on the South Slope, established in the and Eros and the Medieval church of Saint Nicolas.
vation of Cultural Landscapes’ category of the annual
The Acropolis and its surrounding area - including the
European Union Prize for Cultural Heritage/Europa Nostra
Acropolis Slopes, the Ancient Agora, the Areopagus, the
Awards in 2005. The pedestrianised zone formed by
Pnyx and the Hills of the Muses, the Roman Agora and
Dionysiou Areopagitou and Apostolou Pavlou streets
Library of Hadrian - are at the historical heart of the city.
hosts cultural events, including an annual summer Book
Walking through them, it doesn’t take too much imagination
Fair and art exhibitions. The Theatre of Herodus Atticus
to picture Ancient Athens as it was back then. The monu-
is also an important venue for theatrical, musical and
ments are intrinsically linked with the birth of Democracy
dance performances, giving visitors the opportunity to
and they symbolise a precious part of the cultural heritage
experience a unique blend of ancient and modern civilisa-
of Greece and western civilisation ever since. Those ide-
tion. Greeks are rightly proud of their heritage and they are
als have echoed down through the centuries and can still
keen to share it with the world, so special consideration
be heard today.
is providing visitors with information, with detailed signs,
The Middle Ages and Ottoman Period, however, were try-
publications, leaflets, guides and audiovisual material in
ing times for the Acropolis and its surrounding sites. They
English and Greek. Educational programmes are also avail-
suffered as a result of natural disasters like earthquakes,
able to introduce children to Athens’ unique monuments
but more so at the hands of man. Some monuments were
and raise awareness of the importance of respecting and
reused as palaces, churches, mosques and residential
protecting the cultural heritage they represent.
areas. But perhaps the greatest damage occurred when
Though Athens is generally not an easy city to get around
an explosion rocked the Acropolis during Morosini’s siege
for people with mobility problems, efforts have been made
in 1687, and (as many Greeks will tell you) as a result of
at the Acropolis with an arrangement of pathways with
Lord Elgin’s looting of the marbles (1801-1803). These
ramps at specific locations to enable such visitors to visit
events irreversibly altered the face of the Acropolis more
- or at least view - the most important monuments, and the
than anything else in its long history.
installation of a lift on the North Slope means that disabled
Exploration and excavation of the sites began a few years
visitors can now get a close-up view for the first time.
after the establishment of the Greek state in 1834, and
UNESCO proclaimed the Acropolis site a World Heritage
continued until about the middle of the 20th century.
Monument in 1987. The administration of the sites is
Important restoration programmes are now underway
funded by National Resources, while the majority of the
on several monuments. In 1997, the sites around the
restoration programmes and the project for the Unifica-
Acropolis were included in the project for the ‘Unification of
tion of the archaeological sites surrounding the Acropolis
the Archaeological Sites of Athens’, one of the city’s most
is co-funded by the EU.
The Erechtheion on the Acropolis Rock. The Caryatids are replicas of the original ones housed in the new Museum

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

66 whAt to see whAt to see 67

Hadrian’s Gate The Roman Agora The Parthenon Lysikrates Monument

Parthenon E6, MAcropolis, tel. 210 3214172. Built

between 447-437BC, during the ‘Golden Age’ of Athens
under Pericles, the Parthenon is a world famous sight.
Its design harmoniously combines the Doric and Ionic
orders, and its architectural and structural details and
the precision in the carving of the marble are a testament
The Roman Agora and the Library of Hadrian to the expertise in the artisans that created it. Further,
E5, The 28,000 sq.m. site of the Roman Agora and the the décor of the Parthenon and its surrounding monu-
Library of Hadrian includes the two large Roman monu- ments had a profound and lasting influence on Western Lysikrates Monument F7, Lysicratous Square
Hadrian’s Gate F7, Amalias Ave. Built by Athenians ments north of the Acropolis and east of the Ancient and Tripodon St, Plaka, MSyntagma. This monument
in honour of the the Roman Governor Hadrian 131AD, the art (especially sculpture and portraiture), as it depicted
Agora. The Roman Agora was the centre of commercial the human form in an individualised manner for the first commemorates the support of its benefactor-founder of a
gate bears two inscriptions - the first, facing the Acropo- activity of the city during Roman times, while the Library theatrical performance at the nearby theatre of Dionysus,
lis, reads ‘This is Athens, the ancient city of Theseus’, time. These artistic innovations fuelled developments
of Hadrian housed the state archives and philosophical that influenced the art of Hellenistic and Roman times, the earliest theatre in the world - that’s the answer in case
and the other, facing the Temple of Olympian Zeus and Academies and was its spiritual, educational and cultural you wonder just what that strange structure on Tripodon
the centre of the Roman city, reads ‘This is the city of as well as the Renaissance, Baroque, Romanticism and
centre. The Roman Agora was constructed by the Roman Neoclassicism. QOpen 08:30 - 19:30. Admission: €12, Street is. It was built in 335BC by Lysicrates and is also
Hadrian and not of Theseus’. The monument attempts emperor Augustus (between 19 and 11 BC) to accom- known as the “Lantern of Diogenes” in reference to its
to harmoniously combine architectural elements typical Concessions: €6 (four day pass)
modate the commercial enterprises of the city, with unusual shape. The circular building rests on a square
of both Roman (such as the arch) and Greek (colonnades) shops, storerooms and offices. The Library of Hadrian shaped limestone podium and includes a portico of six
traditions. was built as part of a project to re-design Athens by Corinthian columns. It also has a frieze featuring the life
Hadrian in 132 AD to house the city’s largest library, the Panathenaic Stadium of Dionysos, the god of wine and revelry. In 1669, the
state archives and philosophical schools. The site also structure was handed over to Capucin monks, who used
The Ancient Agora D5, MMonastiraki, Thissio, tel. features monuments such as the Water Clock (Horolo-
210 3210185. The Agora was the heart of the public life of it as a study room. The Lysicrates monument is the best
gion) or Tower of the Winds - with its ornate sculpted preserved of its kind, mainly due to the efforts of French
the city - its religious, political and commercial centre, where
depictions of wind-gods, wind vanes, sundials and a archaeologists Fr. Boulanget and E. Loviot who restored
Athenian Democracy was born and flourished. The Agora was
complicated internal water-clock - built around 50BC by the area in 1887.
a large, open square that provided a forum for social and
Macedonian astronomer Andronikos Kyrrhestes, as well
cultural activity, commercial exchange, religious festivals,
as the Vespasianae (public latrines), the Agoranomeion
open-air theatrical performances and athletic contests.
and the Fethiye Mosque (Tzami). North of the Roman
From the 6th century BC, the area was gradually surrounded
by public buildings that were rebuilt over the course of some
Agora is the Medrese (Seminary) and to the south the Temple of Olympian Zeus
Mosque. A section of the Late Roman fortification wall
800 years while the Agora remained the centre of Athens. It
and a four-apse early Christian can be seen within the Temple of Olympian Zeus F7, Vasilissis Olgas &
was traversed by the Panathenaic Way and by the West Road.
Library of Hadrian. Amalias, MAcropolis, tel. 210 9226330. Construction
Tradition has it that Europe’s first law court in Europe was on
the Areopagus, next to the Ancient Agora. The nearby hill of of the temple began in the 6th century BC under the tyrants
the Pnyx is another unique site, where the meetings of the Hippias and Hipparchos, at the site of the ruins of an earlier
Assembly of the ‘Demos’ (Public Assembly of the Citizens), The Western Hills C6,7, The Western Hills (Hill of the Muses temple built by their father, the tyrant Peisistratus. The
were held. The Ancient Agora and Areopagus site covers an or Philopappus Hill, the Pnyx and the Hill of the Nymphs) site Panathenaic Stadium H7, Arditos Hill, tel. 210 Temple stood unfinished throughout the ‘Golden Century’
area of about 400,000 sq.m. northwest of the Acropolis. covers 680,000 sq.m. to the west of the Acropolis. It was an 3251744. A Stadium existed on this site from as early of Athens and was only completed by Roman governor Had-
QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Mon Museum opens at 11:00. Admis- important and densely inhabited section of the ancient city, with as the 4th century BC, when it was used for the mystical rian, known as the ‘Philhellene’, in 132AD. The Temple was
sion: €12 (or pass) Concessions: €6 many important road axes. The Pnyx is dominated by the site Ceremonies held for the Panathenaic Festival in honour huge by ancient standards, rivalling other colossal famous
where meetings of the Assembly of the Demos, the principal of Athena, patron-goddess of the City of Athens. Roman Temples such as the Heraion in Samos, and featured a large
www.parthenonfrieze.gr institution of Athenian Democracy, were held. Philopappus Hill
is crowned by the monument of the same name as well as a
governor Hadrian had also constructed a Stadium at this
site, where gladiatorial contests and shows were put on for
gold and ivory statue of Zeus in its cella. Today, only fifteen
of its original 104 columns are still standing. A sixteenth
modern Observatory. The Philopappus monument is a funer- the Athenian public. The ancient Stadium was completely column lies on the ground, where it fell during a storm in
Hats off to the Ministry of Culture and everyone else the 19th century. QOpen 08:30 - 19:30. Admission: €2,
involved in this unusual for the Greek public sector hi-tech ary stele erected in 114-116AD by the Athenians in honour restored, as an exact replica of the Ancient Stadium, in the
of Caius Julius Antiochus ‘Philopappus’, the exiled prince of late 19th century, in order to host the first modern Olympiad Free for pass holders.
effort. If you are an archaeology buff, just interested or
want your kids to spend some pleasant yet useful time Commagene (a kingdom in south-east Asia Minor that had just (1896). During the Athens Olympic Games of 2004, this
online then check out this great interactive application: been conquered by the Roman Empire).This area, mythically gleaming white Pentelic-marble Stadium provided the venue
www.parthenonfrieze.gr. You will see details of the connected with the Amazonomachy, was first inhabited during for the archery event as well as for the culmination of the A four day pass costing €12 (concessions
Parthenon in 3D, take thematic interactive tours, learn the 6th century BC. During the 5th century BC, it was one of the Marathon Run. The stadium has opened its doors again last €6) will get you in: The Acropolis, the Ancient
about the frieze, play games, puzzles etc and download most densely populated parts of ancient Athens including two April. A free audio guide in ten languages gives visitors all the A gora & museum, Kerameikos & museum,
interesting brochures with useful information about the well-known ‘demes’ (districts), Melite and Koile. The ancient Koile information about the history of this landmark monument. the Roman Agora, Acropolis’ North & South
monument. road, running from Athens to the port of Piraeus, was a most QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Admission: €3 Slopes and th e Temple o f Olympian Zeus.
important commercial and strategic thoroughfare.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

68 What to see What to see 69

the Gigantomachy, the war between the gods and rebelling the museum’s most curious exhibits - a haunting marble
giants. A warlike Athena is shown with her cloak made of face of a woman dating to the 5th/4th Century BC, with black
snakes, though the real triumph here is the work that went lines running from her expressive inlaid eyes, she seems
into restoration efforts – the plaster casts that complete the to be crying, while a marble sphere dating to the 3rd/2nd
statues are second to none. BC carved with magic symbols and icons suggests we are
looking at something that was just as much a mystery to the
ancients as it is to those looking upon it today.

Caryatids from an angle never seen before VK

The Propylaia, Erectheion and Temple of the The magnificent Parthenon Gallery VK
Athena Nike, 1st Floor: After the Archaic temple comes The Parthenon Gallery, 3rd floor: The Parthenon
one of the crowning jewels of the Acropolis complex and the Gallery is where visitors can truly appreciate the museum
Museum – the famous Caryatids – female sculptures that design and its intentions. Built with the precise geometry
acted as columns on the Erectheion temple’s porch. Built on and dimensions of the Parthenon, one can admire the inner
Acropolis view from the Museum’s Parthenon Gallery VK the site of the geometric period temple to Athena Polias (the frieze, the outer metopes and the crowning pediments
Ancient Temple) which had been destroyed by the Persians, while looking towards the Parthenon itself, perched atop
Acropolis Museum Guide that carry bathwater to the
nuptial bath, taken from the
the Erectheion is known for its irregular design, in part due
to the irregular surface of the rock as well as the need to
the Acropolis hill. Finally, it feels like the pieces have found a
sanctuary of the Nymphs give home worthy of their stature, and a walk around this exhibi-
The New Acropolis Museum has proven to be a massive protect the remains of ancient cults, a mark of respect after tion hall evokes the magnificence of the mighty structure.
success as was expected. Receiving 90,000 visitors in a complete overview of the the Persian-induced destruction to the Acropolis, something
different terracotta painting Nevertheless, the spectacular exhibition space invokes
its opening week alone, the monumental complex buzzes the ancient Greeks never forgot. Another special aspect of mixed feelings. Many of the displayed pieces are replicas of
daily with the excited chatter of visitors from all over techniques used in ancient this display is that rather than being sealed off in a glass, as
Greece, something pottery fragments housed mainly in the British Museum, though the
the world, eager to see the rich collection of artefacts was the case in the old Acropolis Museum, the Caryatids can conspicuous gaps in the gallery make the frieze found behind
discovered in and around the ancient Acropolis hill. With buffs will delight in, while the collection of unusual, figura- finally be enjoyed in the round, an illustration of the museum’s
tive vases with three-dimensional bodies worked onto the the west pediment appear all the more miraculous – bar one
light, space and angular lines, the museum design and its dedication to bringing its exhibits to life. This is evident in the missing piece, this section is made up entirely of fragments
perfect view of the Acropolis, honours the history of this surface are also a hit with visitors. Pieces from the Sanctuary temple of Athena Nike’s frieze exhibit– a scaled arrange-
of Dionysus’ temple frieze reveal magnificent workmanship belonging to the museum. The shame in the situation is
ancient site and its treasures. It is divided into historically- ment of how the frieze would appear on the temple itself, unavoidable, particularly when most of the breathtaking
defined sections that put the ancient site into context: that expertly transformed dense marble into flowing fabrics which most people pass as they enter the Acropolis through
draped over dancing women. Theatrical masks and a statue pediment sculptures - especially on the west pediment - are
the Propylaia without a second glance. A number of reliefs plaster casts. However, the cast makers’ excellent work, is
The Ancient Neighbour- of Old Silenus carrying a young Dionysus on his shoulders are also on display, taken from the Nike temple’s balustrade,
allows one to go back in time to see what a temple to an also apparent in the expert reconstruction of the floral ak-
hood: Built on the remains the Sandal-binding Nike being a glorious example of superb roterion that once crowned the Parthenon’s east pediment.
of an Athenian neighbour- enigmatic and flamboyant god would have looked like. relief-carving, with luscious fabrics draped over an even more Indeed, regardless of the debate, the work that has gone
hood, the remnants of streets, lusciously carved out body. into the museum is unquestionable, something eloquently
houses, workshops and baths The Archaic Gallery,
1st Floor: The Archaic Gal- 5th Century BC. – 5th expressed in the bewitched faces of its visitors - history really
are clearly visible through the does come alive here.
transparent floors and viewing lery paints a vibrant picture Century AD, 1st floor: Rep-
areas at the entrance to the of Athens and the Acropolis resenting periods in the Acropo-
museum. Walking into the before the refinement of the lis’ history from the Hellenistic
museum, the neighbourhood Classical era, expressed in the period, the Roman period, and
continues below, a reminder Archaic Parthenon’s pediment the advent of Christianity,
of the history that lies beneath that dominates the gallery’s entrance. A stark contrast to classical art lovers will admire
one of the world’s most his- the highly-classical figures of the Parthenon, the archaic the face of the cult statue of Ar-
torical cities. style is exemplified in the size and scope of its centrepiece temis Brauronia by Praxiteles,
- a magnificent sculpture depicting two gargantuan lions one of the most celebrated attic
The Gallery of the Slopes of the Acropolis: Pro- devouring a bull. Those archaic sculptors certainly had a sculptors of the 4th Century BC.
vides an insight into the ancient Athenian daily life, with talent for depicting animals – seek out the hunting dog if In fact, faces are the real winner
display cases lining an ascending ramp that mirrors the slope you aren’t convinced. Then, after animals come statues of in this section, with a collection Original and replica: Spot the difference! VK
leading to the Acropolis. Keep your eyes down – a collec- women – lots of them. Reflective of the worship of a female of portrait busts allowing visitors
tion of ceramic bowls, wine glasses and plates discovered deity, some 200 ‘Korai’ were discovered on the Acropolis, to gaze into the intricately carved Acropolis Museum E7 Dionysiou Areopagitou
buried in the floor of a house dating to the 3rd Century BC many with the traces of the original paint that decorated faces of historical figures such as a young Alexander the 15, MAcropoli, tel. 210 9000901, info@thea-
are encased in the museum floor at the gallery’s entrance. the expertly carved fabric chitons clothing their stylistic Great, as well as Lucius Verrus, Agrippina the Younger, cropolismuseum.gr, www.theacropolismuseum.
Amongst the artefacts from households, what really puts (and voluptuous) bodies. Nearby, the pediment of the An- Emperor Caracalla, his wife Plautillia and a rather hand- grQOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Closed Mon, Admission fee:
things into perspective are unfinished statues and clay cient Temple - which replaced the old geometric temple some portrait of a Barbarian from the 3rd quarter of the €5. We recommend you reserve tickets on-line in order
moulds – a touch of reality behind the mythical figurines of (close to the site of the Parthenon) around the time of the 2nd Century AD exhibited in the Roman period – who knew to avoid queues.
ancient times. Votive offerings of ‘loutrophorai’, or vessels abolishment of tyranny in 508/507 BC – tells the story of savages could look so refined? This section also contains

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

70 whAt to see whAt to see 71

Archaeological Museum Other Museums Herakleidon-Experience in Visual Arts C5, Heraklei-

don 16, MThissio, tel. 210 3461981, fax 210 3458225,
Battleship Averoff Marina Flisvos, Trokadero, tel. 210 info@herakleidon-art.gr, www.herakleidon-art.gr. This
9888211, info@bsaverof.com, www.bsaverof.com.
This late 19th century battleship has today been converted
excellent private Museum is housed in an attractive listed
neoclassical building in the busy heart of the trendy Thissio
THE COMPLETE SCULPTURES
into a Naval Museum, showcasing the history of the Greek district. It regularly houses periodic visual arts exhibitions OF
Navy and honouring the servicemen who died during naval
engagements during its time of service, the first half of the
twentieth century. QOpen , Mon, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 13:00 &
focusing on the work of important twentieth century artists,
such as M.C. Escher and V. Vasarely. Don’t leave without a visit
to the giftshop. QOpen 13:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
EDGAR DEGAS
18:00-20:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 13:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00 Closed Mon. Admission fee: €6, concessions: €4. until august 14TH 2010
& 18:00-20:00.
Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry Museum E7, Karyatidon
Benaki Museum H5, Koubari 1 & Vasilissis Sofias, & Kalisperi, MAcropolis, tel. 210 9221044, fax 210
MSyntagma, tel. 210 3671000, fax 210 3671063, 9237358, info@lalaounis-jewelrymuseum.gr, www.
benaki@benaki.gr, www.benaki.gr. Housed in a beautiful lalaounis-jewelrymuseum.gr. This is a private non-profit
neoclassical building, this reputable private Museum houses foundation devoted to the historical development of the
a vast collection of finds from Prehistoric down to early twen- art of jewelry. It is located at the foot of the Acropolis, in a
tieth century Greece. It regularly hosts periodic thematic picturesque neoclassical building. Its permanent collection
National Archaeological Museum Patision (28th exhibitions that are generally highly regarded and attract comprises more than 4000 items of jewelry, designed by its
October) 44, MVictoria, tel. 210 8217724, fax 210 large numbers of visitors. Its permanent collection is vast - founder Ilias Lalaounis (1940-2000). Many items in its collec-
8213573, eam@culture.gr. The National Archaeologi- indeed, this is simultaneously an Archaeological, Byzantine tion have been inspired by the art of ancient and Byzantine
cal Museum is set in a characteristic hefty neoclassical and Folk Culture Museum - yet also very instructive, thanks Greece, Europe, America and Asia, as well as from nature and
building, designed by L. Lange and remodelled by P. Kalkos, to the well-organised exhibition structure. The café-restaurant from scientific discourse. It also provides educational facili-
H. Vlachos and E. Ziller (built 1866-1889), housing a extends to the roof-terrace and offers uninterrupted views of ties such as a library and jewelry-making workshop, as well
unique, recently refurbished, collection of ancient Greek the Acropolis and Lycabettus Hill. The Museum shop also as seminars designed for students. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00,
art and artefacts. Its more than 20,000 exhibits show- provides an on-line sales service via the Internet. QOpen Wed 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Admission
case the development of Greek civilisation from Prehistory 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Closed fee: €4, concessions: 2,30 €Free admission for members and
down to the late Roman era. There are vast collections Tue. Admission fee: €6. children under 10Free admission on Wednesdays after 15.00
of finds from the Neolithic, Bronze Age, Cycladic and & Saturday 9.00 - 11.00.
Mycenaean periods (Prehistoric Collection) including: Byzantine and Christian Museum Vasilissis Sofias
the famous gold mask attributed to Agamemnon, finds 22, tel. 210 7232178. Set in a beautiful building, surrounded Islamic Art Museum C4, Ag. Asomaton 22 & Dipilou
from the prehistoric settlement on the island of Thera by a serene courtyard -a leisurely outdoor stroll is a must- this 12, MThissio, tel. 210 3251311, fax 210 3225550,
(Santorini) - including wonderfully preserved colourful Museum offers visitors the opportunity to explore the way islamic_collection@benaki.gr, www.benaki.gr. This
wall-murals; the Sculpture Collection (7th-5th centu- of life, art, religious practices and customs of the Byzantine recently opened annex of the Benaki Museum, housed in an
ries BC) showcasing many internationally-acclaimed and Medieval periods in Greece. It is especially instructive elegant neoclassical building complex in the historic heart
masterpieces of the genre, some of which attributed as regards the intricate interconnections underlying the of Athens, near the ancient Kerameikos cemetery, displays
to Praxiteles’ workshop, the Near Eastern Antiquities symbolisms of the pagan -ancient- and early Christian periods, a fine collection of Islamic art from the Near East, Middle
Collection; as well as the Metallurgy and Vase & Minor revealing lesser-known facets of this transition. The Museum East, Far East and North Africa, from the 12th to the 19th
Objects Collections. also houses a very important collection of Byzantine and post- centuries. It presents the evolution of Islamic art in relation
Byzantine icons and frescoes. A gift shop is available. QOpen to the historic development of Islamic civilisation. QOpen
Two of its newest exhibits include a 4th century BC gold 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission fee: €4. 09:00 - 15:00, Wed 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission
funerary wreath and a 6th century BC marble statue of fee: €5, concessions: €3.
a young woman, returned to Greece in 2007 by the Getty Epigraphical Museum F1, Tositsa 1, MOmonia,
Museum in California and conspicuously displayed. Victoria, tel. 210 8232950, fax 210 8225733, ema@ Jewish Museum F6, Nikis 39, MSyntagma, tel. 210
Another major highlight is its renowned Egyptian Collec- culture.gr. This Museum houses the leading collection of 3225582, fax 210 3231577, info@jewishmuseum.gr,
tion, 1,100 priceless items of which were recently put ancient Greek inscriptions and it is the largest of its kind in www.jewishmuseum.gr. This is a historical and ethno-
on permanent exhibition following years in the Museum’s the world. Decrees, tribute lists, records, all have their place graphic Museum that aims to preserve, explore and present
vast underground storage areas. Considered one of the in this interesting archival Museum. It is housed in the south the material evidence related to the historic Jewish community
foremost Egyptian collections worldwide, its star items wing ground floor of the National Archaeological Museum. It in Greece. It holds more than 8000 artefacts showcasing the
include a wooden body tag for a mummy, the bronze comprises an internal and external courtyard (atrium), a lobby, secular and religious history and way of life of Jews in Greece.
statue of Princess-Priestess Takushit (c. 670BC) adorned eleven rooms, a large hypostyle corridor, a gallery, offices and a A giftshop is also available. QOpen 09:00 - 14:30, Sun 10:00 © “The Degas Sculpture Project LTD”
with a gown strewn with hieroglyphs, a 3,000-year-old laboratory for the conservation of inscribed stone monuments. - 14:00. Closed Sat. Admission fee: €5, concessions €3. Photography: Joseph Coscia, Jr.
preserved loaf of bread (with a bite-sized chunk miss- QOpen 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Free admission.
ing!) and other intact organic materials, as well as a Kerameikos Museum B4, Ermou 148, MThissio, tel.
rare bronze miniature figurine depicting an African boy Goulandris Museum of Cycladic and Ancient 210 3463552. Displays the important archaeological finds
at a street market. The Stathatos Collection was also Greek Art Neophytou Douka 4, MSyntagma, tel. 210 unearthed at the adjacent ancient Kerameikos cemetery, Museum
recently brought up from storage and put on display, 7228321 - 3, fax 210 7239382, info@cycladic-m.gr, such as funeral urns, funerary monuments (‘stelai’) and pot-
mainly showcasing ancient jewellery. www.cycladic-m.gr/. This small Museum is housed both tery items, aptly illustrating the funerary customs of ancient
in an appealing modern building as well as in a stunningly Athenian society. There are a number of impressive pottery
There are plans for the future underground expansion of beautiful neoclassical edifice and includes one of the best and items and funerary monuments in its collection. QOpen
the Museum’s permanent exhibition spaces, but these most representative collections of Cycladic art worldwide (from 08:00 - 19:00, Mon 11:00 - 19:00. Admission fee: €2, conces- Herakleidon 16, 118 51 Thissio, Athens
are not expected to materialise any time soon. It also the Cycladic group of islands in the Aegean, third millennium sions:€1, students, under 19 yrs: free. Metro: Thissio
periodically houses temporary exhibitions. Its amenities BC), as well as a smaller selection of Bronze Age, Minoan, Τel.: 210 3461981
include a coffee-shop/restaurant in the pleasant atrium Mycenaean, Geometric, Archaic, Classical and Hellenistic
in the basement area, Museum shop, conference facilities items, including very well-preserved black-figure pottery. It www.herakleidon.com / info@herakleidon-art.gr
and modern conservation workshops.

QOpen 08:30 - 15:00, Mon 13:30-20:00 Admission fee

also regularly hosts interesting periodic exhibitions. Ameni-
ties include a children’s area, Museum shop and agreeable
café-restaurant in the cozy atrium. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00,
www.culture.gr Museum hours: Tues.-Sat. 13:00-21:00,
Sun. 11:00-19:00
Monday Closed
€7, concessions €3. Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission
fee: €5, Saturdays: €2.5, 18-26: €1.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

72 whAt to see whAt to see 73

Museum of the City of Athens / Vouros-Eutaxias companies. The Museum Shop is well worth a visit if you’re
War Museum Foundation F4, Paparrigopoulou 5-7, MPanepistimio, looking for original and creative -though a tad expensive- gift The Art Foundation (TAF)
tel. 210 3231397, fax 210 3220765, http://www.ath- ideas, while the café-restaurant on the ground floor serves
enscitymuseum.gr/. This Museum, inaugurated in 1973 a good selection of dishes and lovely freshly-made salads.
by benefactors Lambros Eutaxias and his uncle Alexandros QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon,
Vouros, is housed in the stately mansion that was the resi- Tue.
dence of Otto, the first King of Athens and his wife Amalia,
from 1837 up to 1843, and its first floor is dedicated to their Numismatic Museum G4, Panepistimiou 12, MSyn-
memory. It seeks to present the modern history of the city tagma, tel. 210 3643774, fax 210 3635953, protocol@
of Athens, since it became capital of the nascent Hellenic nm.culture.gr, www.nma.gr. Its exhibits include more than
State in 1834, up to the present day. Among its collections 600,000 coins spanning a period from antiquity to the early
are works of art, items of furniture and household objects, as modern era. It is housed in the mansion of Heinrich Schli-
well as complete reconstructions of typical late 19th - early emann, discoverer of the Mycenaean treasure, which was
20th century living and sitting rooms of the Athenian aristo- designed by the famous architect Ernst Chiller during the late
cratic elite. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. 19th century. Its amenities include conservation laboratories,
Closed Tue. Admission fee: €3, Concessions: €2. a well-equipped library, a hall that houses temporary exhibi-
War Museum I5, Rizari 2, MEvangelismos. Dedi- tions and a Museum shop. QOpen 08:30 - 15:00. Closed
cated to the history and practice of warfare, it holds an Museum of Traditional Musical Instruments E6, Mon. Admission fee: €3, concessions: €2.
important collection of war memorabilia from the Myce- Diogenous 1-3, Plaka, MAcropolis, tel. 210 3254119,
naean Period up to present-day Greece, with special focus fax 210 3250198. Housed in a simple neoclassical three- Postal and Philatelic Museum H7, Stadiou Square
on the Second World War, the War in Korea and the Cyprus storey building in a serene quarter of Plaka, this Museum 5 (Panathenaic Stadium), tel. 210 7519042, fax 210
War. The architecture of the building itself is very original, houses one of the foremost collections of traditional musical 7519279, postmuseum@elta-net.gr, http://www.
as it is one of the most representative examples of the instruments in Europe. Exhibits are accompanied by sound postalmuseum.gr/. Stamp lovers and collectors should not
avant-garde architectural movement in Athens during recordings, allowing you to experience the sound of each miss a visit to this Museum. Among its star exhibits are the
the 1950s. The historical fighter planes at the entrance instrument, as well as its musical combination with other printing plates of the first stamp in Greece, as well a collection
are also worth seeing. QOpen 09;00 - 14:00. Closed instruments. Information is provided on how the instruments of the first stamps in history to be connected with the Olympic
Mon. Free admission. are created. There is a large library for dedicated scholars in Games (namely, with the 1896 first modern Olympics that
the adjacent Research Centre for Ethnomusicology. Musical were held in Athens, at the adjacent Panathenaic Stadium).
recitals are sometimes held in the garden. A giftshop selling Its interesting exhibits narrate the postal and philatelic history
Museum of Contemporary Art Fratzi 14 (man- traditional music CDs and musical instruments is also avail- of modern Greece. There is a gift shop that sells stamps and
The Art Foundation D5, Normanou 5, MMonasti-
agement), tel. 210 9242111-2, fax 210 9245200, able. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00, Wed 12:00 - 18:00. Closed other collectors’ items. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat,
raki, tel. (+30) 210 3238757, (+30) 6988391684,
protocol@emst.gr. (as yet not housed at a permanent Mon. Free admission. Sun. Free admission.
www.theartfoundation.gr
address -the building was originally due for completion by
The Art Foundation, affectionately known as TAF, was
the end of 2009- but exhibitions take place in an array of National Glyptotheque Militar y Park, Goudi, Railway Museum Siokou 4, Sepolia, tel. 210 5246580. founded in 2008, inside a building that dates back to
various establishments as circumstances permit, mainly MKatechaki, tel. 210 7709855. This recently opened A haven for the railways aficionados, here you can feast your
1870 in parts. A classic design of the 19th Century
at the New Wing of the Athens Concert Hall).The Museum annex of the National Gallery holds its important Sculpture eyes on historic 19th century steam locomotives, historic
neo-classical style, the building hosts a magnificent,
of Contemporary Art, since it begun operating in 2000 Collection, including works by acclaimed Greek and inter- tram trains, as well as unique exhibits such as the royal car
large internal courtyard that is walled by 140 sqm of
-albeit its as yet nomadic existence- has organised some national artists of the 19th and 20th centuries. Interesting of King George I of Greece, or a wagon (the smoking carriage)
gallery space, with two additional buildings providing
very successful exhibitions, that have remained true to temporary exhibitions are frequently organised. QOpen that was part of the Sultan train of the Ottoman Empire. Also
four studios and deck with eight more. The renovated
its mission to showcase the transcultural, experimental/ 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Tue. Admission on display are related railway paraphernalia, such as tickets,
space is enough reason to visit.
exploratory and thought-provoking aspects of contemporary fee: €6, Concessions: €3. instruments and mechanics’ tools, as well as models and
international art. historic photographic archives. Bus 024 from Syntagma sq
At the same time, the work and dedication obviously
National Historical Museum F4, Stadiou 13, (Praktoreia stop) QOpen 9:00 - 13:00, Wed 9:00 - 13:00 &
required to have realised a vision to unite the past with
Museum of Greek Folk Art F6, Kydathinaion 17, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3237617. Housed in the imposing 17:00-20:00. Closed Mon. Free admission.
the present through the restoration of the structure
Plaka, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3229031, fax 210 historical building that was Greece’s first House of Parlia-
reflects the passion TAF has for the arts, and their pro-
3226979, melt@melt.culture.gr. From the 17th century to ment, this Museum tells the story of Greece since the fall Spyros Vassiliou Museum D7, Webster 5, MA- motion. The foundation nurtures collaboration between
the present, this Museum preserves, records, exhibits and of the Byzantine Empire in 1453, with special focus on the cropolis, tel. 210 9231502, fax 210 922 0193, atelier@
artists, curators and institutions through a constantly
presents the history and evolution of Greek folk art. Among War of Independence (1821-1829), through to the mid 19th spyrosvassiliou.org, www.spyrosvassiliou.org. A small
developing program of exhibitions that embrace young
its exhibits are embroidery, weaving, traditional costumes, century. The commanding statue of Theodoros Kolokotro- museum near the Acropolis dedicated to the life and work of
artists from Greece and abroad. The emphasis on solo
household items (such as the intricate ‘stamps’ used for nis, among the leaders of the Greek War of Independence, Greek artist Spyros Vassiliou. Paintings, woodcuts, posters
and group shows curated with topical sensitivity and a
embossing and decorating bread during traditional festivals), proudly greets visitors to the Museum. Among its invaluable and illustrations for book covers and records are among the
strong thematic premise creates a conceptual space
shadow-theatre puppets (the famous ‘Karaghiozis’), as well exhibits are archival records, photographs, costumes, flags, works on display. QOpen , Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 -
where the viewer is exposed to an array of young art-
as silver, wood and stone carvings. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. paintings, religious icons, royal portraits and weapons. A 16:00, Wed 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
ists working today.
Closed Mon. Admission fee: €2, consessions: €1. giftshop is available. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.
The National Gallery J5, Michalakopoulou 1, MEvan- Based on a premise that focuses on creating concep-
Museum of the Ancient Agora D5, Adrianou 24, New Benaki Museum A5, Pireos 138, MKerameikos, gelismos, tel. 210 7235857, fax 210 7224889, www.
tual and creative dialogue between art and the public,
MThissio, tel. 210 3210185. Housed in the renovated tel. 210 3453111, www.benaki.gr. This recently opened nationalgallery.gr. Housing a collection of Greek art from
TAF nurtures a social aura further amplified by the
‘Stoa of Attalos’ (dating to 150BC) within the archaeological annex to the Benaki Museum is situated in an ex-industrial the sixteenth century to the present, mainly spanning the
crowded courtyard bar during unmissable opening
site of the Ancient Agora, it is a veritable Museum of the and underprivileged strip spanning Piraeus Str and extend- nineteenth and twentieth centuries, it includes some works
nights that fully utilise the courtyard bar as a space
History of Democracy, showcasing items linked with the ing to the Gazi area, which is fast transforming itself into a by Dominicos Theotocopoulos (El Greco), as well as works by
for discussion. A series of theatrical performances, live
development of Athenian public and commercial life, civic veritable hub of experimental and avant-garde artistic activ- seminal Greek artists such as Theophilos, Nikiforos Lytras,
music shows and experimental performances, as well
emancipation and democratic institutions, from antiquity ity. Housed in a tasteful building that gracefully combines Nikolaos Gyzis, Georgios Iakovidis, Nikolaos Kounelakis, Niko-
as a variety of other creative endeavours, further add
up until the birth of the modern Greek State. There are simplicity and an imposing aspect and provides a most laos Chatzikyriakos-Ghikas, Yiannis Tsarouchis, Yiannis Mora-
to a holistic atmosphere of creativity. Only two years
a number of world-acclaimed ceramic items and statues welcome contrast to its rather neglected surroundings, lis, Nikos Eggonopoulos and Alekos Fassianos. The Gallery
old and already an established space, things can only
among its collections, such as the colossal statue of Apollon this Museum is well worth a visit if you wish to take in what frequently organises interesting temporary exhibitions. It also
get more creative.
Patroos (c. 330BC). The models of the Ancient Agora (com- Athens has to offer as far as modern and contemporary art houses conservation laboratories and a library, while plans
mercial centre), Acropolis and Pnyx (public meeting area) are exhibitions are concerned. As well as its regularly alternating for its expansion are underway, with no concrete timeframe
very illuminating as regards the city’s ancient topography. temporary exhibitions, it also periodically hosts alternative announced as yet. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
QOpen 13:00 - 24:00, Free admission.
QOpen 08:00 - 16:45, Mon 11:00 - 16:45. Admission fee: drama performances by independent unconventional theatre Closed Tue. Admission fee: €6.5, concessions: €3.
€4, concessions: €2.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

74 What to see What to see 75

National Polytechnic University F1, Patision (28th Tzisdarakis Mosque

Historic Buildings Parliament. The Tomb of
the Unknown Soldier, a October) 46, MOmonia. This building, although in an E5, Monastiraki
monument in honour of unfortunate state of disrepair due to persistent student Square, MMonasti-
Arsakeion Megaron F3, Panepistimiou 47, MPanepis- the servicemen who fell in sit-ins, is worth visiting because of its connection with the raki. Overlooking Mo-
timio. Built by renowned 19th century architect Lysandros the struggle for Greek In- historic student uprisings against the military dictatorship, nastiraki Square, this
Kaftantzoglou, this imposing building is among the finest dependence, is located in which were violently put down on 17 November, 1973. There was a historic Ottoman
examples of modern Athenian architecture and hosts the the forecourt of the build- is a monument in honour of the Polytechnic students killed in m os qu e c on s tru c te d
Council of State High Court. Adjacent to the Arsakeion is the ing. The Tomb is guarded the Greek Resistance during World War Two, situated in the during the governorship
pleasant Books’ Arcade, an ideal book-lovers’ haunt and by the Presidential Guard forecourt of the University, on which students and politicians of the ‘voivode’ Tzisda-
anyone avid for a shelter during a rainy day. (‘Evzones’) in traditional lay wreaths on the anniversary of the uprising, in order to rakis in Athens, in 1759.
dress, whose intricately commemorate the event. It now houses the Mu-
Athens City Hall Kot- orchestrated changing of seum of Greek Ceramic
zia Square, MOmonia. the guard at the turn of the National Theatre D2, Ag. Konstantinou 22, MOmonia. Art, while its Minaret has been removed.
An impressive neoclassical hour attracts many visitors, who also take the opportunity Housed in an impressive neoclassical building, with a grand
building situated in a breath- to feed the ubiquitous flocks of pigeons. QOpen , Sat, Sun colonnaded façade and beautiful interior, it is the foremost Zappeion G6, Amalias &
taking cobblestone square, 10:00 - 20:00. Free admission. establishment of the National Theatre of Greece. Vas Olgas, MSyntagma.
bristling with pleasant cafés Built in 1874-1878 by ar-
and busy shopping centres Church of Aghioi Theodoroi F4, Aristeidou & Euripi- Observatory C6, Hill of chitect von Hansen, on the
(the picturesque Central dou St, MPanepistimio. Yet another structure built over the the Nymphs, MThissio. order of Greek-Romanian
Athens open-air meat mar- ruins of a much earlier temple. This was common practice This historic Obser va- national benefactors and
ket is right down the street). during Byzantine ages, in an attempt to wipe out idolatry. And tory, the first of its kind cousins Zappas, this lofty
The square also functions what less costly method than appropriating the very materials in Greece and the Bal- neoclassical structure origi-
as an open-air antiquities the ancient building was made of, for “holy purposes”! Ac- kans, was designed by nally housed an exhibition
Museum and is surrounded by beautiful neoclassical build- cording to the inscription found on the west wall, this church renowned architect Theo- hall. Surrounded by beauti-
ings from the turn of the century (such as the National Bank dates back to 1065 AD. The last known restoration was in phile Hansen and was ful gardens, that include a
or ‘Karatza Megaron’). The City Hall also houses a valuable 1840, following damages it incurred during the Greek War of inaugurated in 1842. It has pleasant coffee-shop and restaurant, as well as an array
art collection. Independence. This is a cross-in-square construction, with a unique cross-shaped of interesting sculptures, it is now used for international
3 apses on the east side. As is the case with most churches structure, that points to conferences, commercial events, as well as for European
Athens Metropolitan Cathedral Mitropoleos Sq, in Greece, the bell tower was added later. As for the imposing the four points of the hori- heads of State meetings.
MMonastiraki, Syntagma. Completed in 1862 after 20 wall paintings, they date to the 19th century. zon, while its resplendent golden dome can be seen gleaming
in the Athens sky from quite a distance.
years of construction (the first stone was laid by King Otto
and Queen Amalia), this large three-aisled domed basilica Church of Panaghia Cemeteries
was consecrated to the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary. Kapnikarea E5, Ermou Old House of Parlia- Commonwealth war
Inside are the tombs of two Orthodox saints. In its pleasant & Kapnikareas St, MSyn- ment F4, Stadiou 13, cemetery Poseidonos
courtyard there are the statues of the last Byzantine Emperor tagma, Monastiraki. Built MSyntagma. It was the Av, Alimos. 2,028 Com-
(Saint Constantine XI ‘the Martyr’) and a former Archbishop of as usual on the ruins of an first residence of Kin g monwealth servicemen
Athens. It is currently undergoing restoration, so large parts ancient temple, which was O t to, while h e awai ted of the Second World War
are not visible under the scaffolding. dedicated to goddess Ath- completion of the Royal are buried or commemo-
ena or Demeter, this min- Palace (now House of Par- rated in this cemeter y.
Athens Stock Exchange Sofokleous 10, MOmonia. iscule church is commonly liament) and subsequently 596 of the burials are
Built in 1934 to host the nomadic stock market of those days, known as Kapnikarea. It housed the Greek Parlia- unidentified and there
it is an imposing neoclassical building that is well worth a is usually surrounded by ment between 1843-1854 are also 74 men of the
detour from Kotzia Square. There is no activity in the building hundreds of people, either and 1875 - 1932. In front army of undivided India who died during the campaigns
these days as trading went electronic a few years ago and the waiting for someone or having their portrait drawn and even of the building there stands an imposing equestrian bronze in Greece and Crete during the Second World War. In the
management moved to a new building in 2007. Don’t miss having a breather in between shopping. In a poll, it would statue of General Theodoros Kolokotronis, among the lead- north-east corner of the cemetery, a plot contains the
the innovative glass display on the ground, which exhibits a probably be voted the best loved church in Athens. As for its ers of the Greek War of Independence. Today, this stately graves of servicemen and civilians who after serving in the
section of the Ancient Athenian wall. background, it was erected around 1050AD, but the small neoclassical building houses the National Historical Museum Crimean War, died in Greece. A Memorial within Phaleron
porch with the two columns was built closer to the end of the (see museums). War Cemetery commemorates nearly 3,000 members of
Bank Of Greece F4, 12th century. It is cross-in-square shaped, with three apses the land forces of the Commonwealth who lost their lives
Panepistimiou 21, on the east side and a narthex on the west. A chapel, dedi- Presidential Palace during the campaigns in Greece and Crete in 1941 and
MPanepistimio, w w w. cated to Aghia Varvara, was later added to the north side. As and Megaron Maxi- 1944-1945, in the Dodecanese Islands in 1943-1945 and
bankof gr e ece.gr. T h e for the interior, which is open to the public, there are paintings mou H6, Irodou Attikou in Yugoslavia in 1943-1945, and who have no known grave.
headquarters of the Central signed in 1955 by Greek artist Photis Kontoglou. Str e et, M Syntagma. Tram stop: Pikrodafni
Bank of Greece. The building The imposing Presiden-
was designed by architects National Librar y - tial Palace, which was for- First cemetry of Athens
K. Papadakis and N. Zoum- Athens Academy - merly a Royal Residence, G8, Anapafseos and Trivo-
poulidis and its foundations Athens University F4, now hosts the Republic’s nianou, Mets, MAcropo-
were laid in 1933. The official Panepistimiou 28-32, Presidency and is guarded lis. Most famous Greeks
inauguration took place in 1938, under Governor Emmanouil MPanepistimio. These by ‘evzones’ (Presidential are buried here. It is a mu-
Tsouderos. striking neoclassical build- Guards in traditional cos- seum in its own right with
ings were built by the Han- tume). It was designed by ever y kin d of monum en t
House of Parliament (Vouli) G5, Syntagma Square, sen brothers of Copenha- renowned architect Ernst Ziller in the 1870s. Nearby is the and ornamental patterns,
MSyntagma, tel. 210 3707000, fax 210 3692170, gen. The National Library is attractive neoclassical Megaron Maximou, which functions as marble sculptures, columns,
info@parliament.gr, www.parliament.gr. Overlooking reached via an impressive the Prime Minister’s office. Admission by invitation only. sarcophagi and neoclassi-
Syntagma Square, it was originally the Royal Palace of sculpted marble staircase, cal temples, conveying the memorial art that flourished
King Otto and Queen Amalia, the first monarchs of Greece. while the Athens Academy Turkish Baths E6, Kyristou 8, Plaka, MSyntagma. during the 19th century along the rebirth of the new Greek
Designed in the neoclassical style by Friedrich von Gartner, is flanked by imposing statues of Apollo and Athena on either This is among one of the very few surviving remnants of the state. (It was founded around 1837, when Athens was also
the palace was completed in 1843. It was used as the Royal side, while the impressive frescoes at its entrance depict the Ottoman period in Greece and the sole surviving traditional established as the capital city of the modern Greek state
Residence until 1924 and, since 1934, has housed the Greek myth of Prometheus. bathhouse in Athens. This interesting 17th century bathhouse (1834). It spreads on the slope of the Ardittos hill, close to
is open to visitors. QOpen 10:00 - 14:30. Closed Mon. the Panathinaiko Stadium.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

76 whAt to see whAt to see 77

Children’s Athens Open air cinemas Sundays in Athens

Allou Fun Park Kifissou & Petrou Ralli Junction, tions of an interactive character, including state-of-the-art
Rentis, tel. 210 4256990, www.allou.gr. Entertain- technological applications.
ment Park covering about 40,000 square metres. The The Foundation also hosts the ‘Tholos’, a dome-shaped
Park includes an extensive array of amusement rides, virtual-reality theatre, currently showing an interactive tour
an ‘Adrenaline Zone’, the ‘Shock Tower’: a 40m free fall of the Ancient Athenian Agora. The Foundation includes a
experience and the largest observation wheel in Greece. conventional theatre, a café, internet-access area and gift-
‘Kidom’ is the adjacent fairytale park designed for younger shop. Highly recommended if you are looking for a high-tech
children, complete with a pirate ship, carousel, trampolines, educational experience for the whole family and want to
and climbing towers. Bus no: B18 and trolleybus 21 from rediscover the little explorer in you. (Bus line 049 Omonia-
Omonia. A taxi will cost €6-8 from the centre of Athens. Piraeus, Bus-stop: Viochalko) QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Wed
QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. Admission
- 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. Admission: Free (A fee is fee: €4-6, Tholos: €10.
charged for using the rides & games). Kidom is open until
00:00 daily Hellenic Children’s Museum Kidathineon 14,
Plaka, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3312995, fax 210
Attica Zoological Park Yalou, Spata, tel. 210 3312996, info@hcm.gr, www.hcm.gr. This is a small
6634724, fax 210 6634726, zoo@atticapark.gr, haven for children aged up to 12 years old, with multifaceted
thematic exhibits specially designed to cater to childrens’ Don't miss the opportunity to spend an evening in true
www.atticapark.gr. Although it cannot be said that this Athenian summer style at one of the many open-air
is among the world’s greatest zoos, you and your children imagination and stimulate their intellectual, creative and
cinemas that open throughout the capital when the
will definitely enjoy a few hours of fun inquisitive faculties. It covers an area weather gets warm. Most are small gardens in their Unlike some European capitals where Sundays don’t
away from the city centre. You’ll have of more than 520 sq. m. in a historic own right, with jasmine trees and bougainvilleas all differ much from any other week day, in Athens all shops
the opportunity to see more than three-storey neoclassical building, around, a real treat for sultry summer nights. Together are closed and a shopaholic visitor can get very easily
two hundred species of birds, many including an attic and garden. QOpen with your chosen movie, you can enjoy food, drinks and depressed. Here are some things you can do in the
reptiles, Greek fauna species like: , Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 14:00, -of course- cigarettes, making it a completely different capital only on a Sunday, just to help you get over the
wolves, bears, foxes and wild cats, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. cinema experience. closed shops blues.
a number of African mammals like Free entrance. Open air cinemas used to replay winter movies but
giraffes, zebras, antelopes and some their new-found popularity during the last few years has Sunday church. Attending a Greek Orthodox church
rare animals like snow leopards and Natural History (Goulandris) resulted in many of them screening new films. Tickets
service can be an interesting experience whether you’re
white lions. Visitors can walk into the Museum Levidou 13 / Othonos cost €7-8
The best open-air cinemas around the centre of Athens, religious or not. The Sunday morning service (between
monkeys’ enclosure and also walk 100 (Gaea Centre), MKifisia, tel. 07:00 and 09:30) is the one most Greek churchgoers
through a special tunnel and get very 210 8015870, fax 210 8080674, each with its own distinctive character, are:
attend all over the country, although fewer and fewer
close to the four cheetahs of the park. info@gnhm.gr, www.gnhm.gr. This young people are seen in church. The best place to visit
Museum houses an extensive collec- Cine Psirri D4, Sarri 40-44, Psirri,tel. 210 3212476
To get there take the 319 bus from A parking lot at the backyard of a theatre and a in the city centre is, of course, Athens Cathedral (modest
Doukisis Plakentias metro station. tion of zoological, botanical, entomo- warehouse (during the winter) are transformed into a compared to magnificent cathedrals you may have seen
QOpen 09:00 - sunset. Admission logical, geological and palaeontologi- lovely cinema in the summer months, very conveniently elsewhere) on Mitropoleos Street, where you are likely
fee: €14, Children, Seniors: €10. cal exhibits, with the aim of shedding located for those who don’t feel like going back to their to mingle with local dignatories, politicians, etc. The little
light on the evolution of the Earth and hotel after the show. Expect re-mastered copies of old old church of Kapnikarea (see pg 62) on Ermou street is
Copa Copana 12th km Athinon living systems, as well as raising public movies and new quality productions. a more intimate and atmospheric alternative, although
Ave. Haidari, tel. 210 5576006, awareness regarding the urgent need Cine Dexameni H4, Dexameni Sq, Kolonaki, tel. it can get crammed.
www.copacopanapark.com. Chil- to safeguard the environment. The 210 3623942 A lovely garden in the heart of Kolonaki,
dren and grown ups are guaranteed Gaea Centre is a modern exhibition but just off the hustle and bustle of ‘The Square’. Changing of the guard. The guards (Evzones) at the
a day of endless fun in this huge area with interactive displays and Mainstream films followed by an ouzo or two at the
ouzeri just outside the cinema, to round your evening off Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Greek Par-
entertainment theme park just fifteen audiovisual performances that tackle liament change on the hour every day and night and this
minutes from the city centre. Waterslides of every kind, and invite the reader to address topical environmental is- combining style and tradition.
Aigli G7, Zappeion Garden, tel. 210 3369370 is a top tourist attraction. Every Sunday morning though,
swimming pools, islands, waterfalls and the Magic Town, sues. Amenities include special educational programmes just after 10:30 the visitor can watch the full official cer-
for children, a café-restaurant, gift-shop, as well as a parking The poshest of all, plays movies catering to all tastes. A
the bigest children playground in Greece, complete with a pleasant walk from your hotel through Zappeion garden emony when the whole Presidential Guard march from
pirate ship: an absolute heaven for the little ones. There area. QOpen 09:00 - 14:30, Sun 10:00 - 14:30. Closed: their barracks to the tomb followed by a millitary band.
and back. You can stop over for a drink at one of the
is a café, pool bars and a mediterranean restaurant and Until Aug 20 Admission fee: €5 (€7 combined ticket for Gaea other Aigli complex establishments nearby. The uniform of the elite soldiers originates in the war of
the fun continues in the evening with cocktails, djs and live Centre), concessions: €3 (€4). Vox G2, Themistokleous 82, Exarchia, tel. 210 independence from the Ottomans and the kilts have 400
music. Bus No: A16, B16, E16, 865 from Koumoundourou 3301020 A historic rooftop cinema on Exarchia square, pleats, as many as the years of the occupation.
sq, Bus stop: Afaia-Haidari. A taxi ride costs about €10. Planetarium-Eugenides Foundation Syngrou 387, showing films true to the intellectual character of the
QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. Weekdays: €17, children up to 12 Palio Faliro, tel. 210 9469641, www.eugenfound.edu. district. European and every kind of arty cinema are Monastiraki flea market. Once you’re done with
yrs: €10 Weekends: €20, children up to 12 yrs: €12. Family gr. Fancy a journey to the stars? If you’re not a millionaire or favourites here. the Evzones, you can cross Syntagma square and walk
and member tickets also available. an astronaut but just curious what Neptune looks like this Cine Paris F6, Kydathineon 22, Plaka, tel. 210 down the deserted commercial Ermou street to get to
time of year, drop by the Eugenides Foundation. This is home 3222071 Walking around Plaka Square, you couldn’t Monastiraki where the flea market is at full swing every
Foundation of the Hellenic World Pireos 254, to the largest and, by general acclaim, most advanced digi- possibly imagine that there is a cinema with a direct
Acropolis view atop one of the surrounding buildings. Sunday morning. Avisinias square is where you’ll find
MKallithea, tel. 212 2540000, fax 212 2540123, hel- tal 3-D 360 degrees Planetarium in the world, built in 2003 most shops selling antiques mixed with junk and you
lenic_cosmos@ime.gr, www.hellenic-cosmos.gr. This and designed to seat 280 people at a time. Large format What a wonderful way to continue your evening after you
have stuffed yourself with mousaka at the restaurants can spend a few hours watching people digging under
Centre, situated in a former industrial complex and span- films and planetarium shows are projected on a 25-metre the piles of used objects of all kinds. If you decide to
diameter dome. Thanks to the latest digital technology of the area.
ning a total area of approximately 60,000 sq.m., is not a Thission C6, Apostolou Pavlou 7, Thissio, tel. 210 buy something, remember that prices are negotiable,
Museum in the conventional sense of the term. It does host you can scuba dive in the great barrier reef, get up close especialy those quoted to foreigners. A self styled market
3420864 This cinema has hardly had any facelifts
exhibitions aiming at showcasing the development of the and personal with a Hawaiian volcano crater and follow and that’s because it doesn’t need any (except with old stamps, coins and banknotes takes place every
arts, sciences and every aspect of society throughout the Neil Armstrong’s footsteps on the surface of the moon. maybe its chairs which are not very comfy). It is the Sunday at the end of Adrianou street just outside Thissio
Hellenic world (the current exhibition is entitled ‘A Journey to Buses: 126, A2,B2 from Akadimias & Omirou St QOpen most atmospheric of all, very conveniently located on metro station where you can buy a set of old drachma
the World of Greek mathematics’). Yet, its exhibits are not 19:30 - 20:30, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 20:30. Closed Mon, Tue. pedestrianised Apostolou Pavlou street and directly coins, but again, be cautious with the prices.
the usual original artefacts, but contemporary reconstruc- Planetarium Digital Shows: €6, iWERKS Shows: €8. facing the sacred rock of the Acropolis.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

78 gArdens & PArKs getting AroUnd 79

Public transport Taxis

A universal type of ticket is used, at a cost of €1 and it is
usable for 90 minutes after its validation on all means of
transport. 24h tickets cost €3 and 7day tickets cost €10.
(see pg 67 for the new 3 day ‘Tourist ticket’)
There are also monthly and yearly unlimited travel cards at
various costs. For info call 185 or ask at any public transport
ticket kiosk or metro station. Fines for fare-dodgers are 60
times the price of the ticket.

Buses and Trolley-

buses tel. 185, www.
oasa.gr. They operate
between 05:00-24:00
and th eir net work is
convenient. The recent
inauguration of bus lanes
means that th ey are
relativel y fast though The Greek government, (obviously taking into ac-
sometimes unpunctual. count the world-class ser vices that Greek taxis
If you’re within the town of fer), gradually raised the rates charged per km
centre you should be until they doubled in a year (€0.36 per km went
fine, as you’ll find there’ll be more than one bus line serv- up to €0.72). Another Greek my th - that of cheap
ing your route. Make sure you purchase your ticket from taxis - is finally busted. There has been no talk
a kiosk (‘periptero’) beforehand and that you validate it about opening up the profession and no talk about
once on board. licencing new taxi companies to of fer high quality
taxi ser vices to the public. No talk, either, about
some taxi drivers - usually operating at airpor ts
Metro tel. 210
- who tr y to earn a day’s (or even a week’s) wages
National Gardens AIYP 6792399, www.ametro.
from foreign visitors.
gr. This is definitely the
National Gardens G6, Amalias Street, MSyntagma. pages) are also to be found here offering the same breathtak- most convenient means
I f you have to use a taxi, always ask for the meter
Created and designed by Queen Amalia in the 19th century, ing views of the capital. to getting around Athens. It
to be on, and never accept a fixed price i f you pick
the National Gardens provide a pleasant green haven in the operates between 05:00-
up a taxi in the street. The current starting price is
heart of bustling downtown Athens. Its meandering bench- Pedion tou Areos Pati- 24:00 from impeccable
at €1.05 and then there is a fixed rate of €0.60 per
laden paths, cool trees and popular ponds, make up a favou- sion (28th October) & Al- stations (some, such as
km for the single, day-time tari f f (05.00-24.00),
rite stroll for everyone. Feeding the ever-hungry water fowl at exandras St, MVictoria. Acropolis and Syntagma,
and €1.05 per km for the double, night-time tari f f.
the ponds is a must, while you may also visit the Botanical A lovely park located within also doubling as site mu-
The minimum charge for every ride is €2.80. There
Museum and, for the young (or young at heart) there is the easy walking distance (just seums) playing soothing
is an additional charge of €3.40 when you travel
dedicated Childrens’ Museum. A pleasant coffee-shop is also fi ve minu tes) from th e classical music and featur-
from and to Athens Airpor t and €0.95 from and
located in its grounds. National Archaeological ing glittering white marble and interesting works of art.
to harbours, train and bus stations. You can call
Museum, i ts expansi ve The metro has good links to the pre-existing over ground
a radio taxi by paying an extra €1.70 for immedi-
B otanical Gar den tree-lined vistas make for rail network, connecting the harbour of Piraeus with the
ate pick up (which can take some time durin g
(Diomidous Gardens) a pleasant stroll during the day - there are also numerous northern suburb of Kifisia, the stations of which have been
rush hours) or €3 - 5 for an appointment. Please
401, Iera Odos Avenue. impressive statues of Greek War of Independence heroes. recently upgraded. At long last, the operating hours have
note that the following radio-taxi companies only
Extending over a vast area been extended to 02:00 am every Friday and Saturday and
handle the calls and do not own the taxis. They
of 1,800 hectares in Ath- Zappeion Garden G7, Athenians just love it.
are not therefore responsible for the conduct of
ens’ western suburbs of Vas. Olgas Av. MSyntag-
the drivers.
Korydallos, Dafni and Agia ma, Acropolis. Situated Tram www.tramsa.
Var vara, i t makes for a right next to (and actually gr. For the leisurely
If you feel that you are about to be ripped
lovel y and invigorating, forming an extension of) traveler who wishes
of f, refuse to pay and demand to be taken to
if impractically situated, the National Gardens, the to get around in style
the nearest police station. This has worked
scenic stroll. Within its expansive serene grounds you can Zappeion Garden gener- (the tram cars were
wonders in the past and tourists have seen
find an overwhelming abundance of flora (more than 3000), ously provides a serene designed by Ferrari
the price asked dropping dramatically in
some of which are exceedingly rare, as well as a dedicated get-away from the hustle designer Sergio Pin-
seconds!
botanic section with pharmaceutical plants. QOpen 08:00 and bustle. There are wonderfully crafted statues to be infarina, no less) and
- 14:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. seen, while the café and restaurant are well worth a visit. in a less crowded,
These Gardens harmoniously combine the grand (imposing albeit slower fashion,
Lycabettus Hill I3 . architecture of the Zappeion Hall) with the pristine, in its cool the tram is the way. It Radio Taxi Companies
It can be reached on foot shady vistas and green corner get-aways. is brand new and more comfortable and spacious than the Apollon tel. 210 3636508
for the adventurous via a buses and trolleybuses. Plus, you get the chance to view the Asteras tel. 210 6144000
beautiful pedestrian walk- wonderful seaside esplanade of Athens’ southern coastal Ellas tel. 210 6457000
way surrounded by pine Presidential Palace Gardens H6, Irodou Attikou suburbs by boarding the tram towards Voula. Operating Enotita tel. 210 6459000
trees, by the funicular or by St. MSyntagma Do not miss the opportunity for a stroll hours are 05:00-01:00 (Fri - Sat: 24h). Evropi tel. 210 5028574
car, offering excellent views in the gardens of a historic Royal residence-now the Hermes tel. 210 4115200
of the entire city and the Icaros tel. 210 5152800
Saronic Gulf. There is an open-air theatre atop the Hill that
Presidential Palace. The magnificent gardens became
accessible for the first time last March after President Courier Services Kosmos tel. 18 300
regularly hosts concerts during summer months. Also on the Karolos Papoulias decided to open their gates to the ACS 210 8190000 DHL tel. 210 9890000 Protoporia tel. 210 2130400
Hill is the small gleaming-white picturesque church of Saint public every Sunday 10:00 - 14:00. TNT tel. 801 11868868 UPS tel. 210 9984000
George. A coffee-shop and restaurant (see our restaurant

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

80 getting AroUnd getting AroUnd 81

Aircraft/helicopter rentals Post Offices

ABI (air business international) Vouliagmenis 602A,
Glyfada, tel. 210 9967870, fax 210 9967872, info@
abi.gr, karafil@abi.gr. Buy, sell, lease or hire helicopters
and aircrafts.
Airlift Herodou Attikou 12A, Marousi, MMarousi, tel.
210 8093771/210 8093777, airlift@airlift.gr, www.
airlift.gr. Helicopter rental for sightseeing or transport in If you are the old-fashioned type and a snail-mail lover,
style. here is a list of centrally located post offices.
The stamp to post a 20gr letter or postcard abroad
costs €0.70. Add to that €3.20 for registered and €2.90
Airlines for express mail.
Aegean Viltanioti 31, Kifisia, tel. 210 6261000/Air-
port: 210 3530101. Acropolis post kiosk D6, Acropolis rock, MAk-
Aeroflot Xenofontos 14, tel. 210 3220986/Airport: ropolis, tel. 210 3217650. QOpen 07:30 - 14:00,
210 3531101. Sun 09:00 - 13:30.
Aerosvit Syngrou 36-38, tel. 210 9210710/Airport: Aiolou - Central PO E3, Aiolou 100, MOmonia,
210 3534020. tel. 210 3216024. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30
Air France Megalou Alexandrou 7, Argyroupoli, tel. 210 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
9970700/Airport: 210 3530380. Exarchia G1, Zaimi 36-38, MVictoria, tel. 210
Air China Filellinon 24, tel. 210 3716386/Airport: 8219570. QOpen 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
210 3534245. Kolonaki I5, Ploutarchou & Karneadou 35, MEvan-
Albanian Panepistimiou 15, tel. 210 3227466/Airport: gelismos, tel. 210 7244404. QOpen 07:30 - 14:00.
210 3530376. Closed Sat, Sun.
Alitalia Vouliagmenis 577, tel. 210 9988888/Airport: Makrigianni F7, Dionisiou Areopagitou 7, MAk-
210 3534284. ropolis, tel. 210 9218076. QOpen 07:30 - 14:00.
Ultra-modern Kerameikos metro station AIYP Austrian Vouliagmenis 18, Glyfada, tel. 210 9601240/ Closed Sat, Sun.
Airport: 210 3533425. Metaxourgio C3, Thermopylon 42, MMetaxourgio,
British Airways Themistokleous 1, Glyfada, tel. 210 tel. 210 5225277. QOpen 07:30 - 14:00. Closed
Free Internet Internet 801 1156000/Airport: 210 3531170. Sat, Sun.
Bits and Bytes Akadimias 78, MPanepistimio, tel. Bulgaria Air Nikis 33, tel. 210 3228113/Airport: 210 Mitropoleos E5, Mitropoleos 60, MMonastiraki,
athenswifi: Grab your laptop, head to Syntagma (+30) 210 3813830. 3531156. tel. 210 3218143. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00. Closed
Square, Kotzia Square, or Thissio (from the metro station Continental Airlines Filellinon 25, tel. 00800 Sat, Sun.
up along the pedestrian path), find somewhere comfort- c@fe4U Ippokratous 44, Exarchia, MPanepistimio, 44143592/Airport: 210 3530678. Omonia E2, 3rd Septemvriou 28, MOmonia, tel. 210
able to sit and log on: Internet access is free! tel. (+30) 210 3611981, info@cafe4U.gr, www.cafe4U. Cyprus Athens International Airport, tel. 210 3534100/ 5233636. QOpen 07:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
gr. QOpen 24h. Airport: 210 3534312. Plaka F6, Nikis 33, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3235831.
Czech Airlines Kyprou 151, Argyroupoli, tel. 210 QOpen 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
easyInternetcafé Syntagma Square, Everest restau- 9652957/Airport: 210 3531252. Syntagma Square F5, , MSyntagma, tel. 210
24 hrs kiosks rant, MSyntagma. Delta Athens International Airpor t, tel. 00800 3237573. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00,
Sun 09:00 - 13:30.
44129506/Airport: 210 3530116.
Emirates Syngrou 128, tel. 210 9333400/Airport:
210 3531174.
Information Numbers Gulf Air Nikis 33, tel. 210 3220851/Airport: 210 Luggage lockers
3531566.
Luggage lockers can be found at Omonia, Monastiraki
Ferries departure info tel. 1441. Ib eria Athens International Airpor t, tel. 210 and Piraeus old (green) line metro stations (€3 per 24h).
KTEL (intercity buses) departure info tel. 14505 3537600.
OASA (urban transportation) info tel. 185. Jat Airways Amerikis 10, tel. 210 3622054/210
OSE (Greek Railways) info tel. 1110. 3634572.
KLM Megalou Alexandrou 7, Argyroupoli, tel. 210
Transport tickets maths
9110000/Airport: 210 3533436.
LOT Panepistimiou 15, tel. 210 3237762/Airport: 210 A new ‘Tourist ticket’ has been introduced for visitors
Car rental 3530376. coming to Athens only for a few days. The cost of the
Lufthansa Sorou 18-20, Marousi, tel. 210 6175200. ticket is €15 and it can be used on all means of transport
Avis Tel. 210 6879600, fax 210 6879610, Malev Panepistimiou 15, tel. 210 3241116/Airport: including unlimited journeys to and from the airport for
reservations@avis.gr, www.avis.gr 210 3530376. three days.
Olympic Syngrou 96, tel. 801 801 0101/Airport: 210 However, given the existence of a weekly ticket costing
Budget Tel. 800 11 800 12, 210 8981444, 3550500. €10 (excluding the airport lines), going for the new ticket
reservations@budget-athens.gr, www. Qatar Airways Syngrou 170, tel. 210 9508700/Air- only makes sense for those who only want to travel to
Run out of cigarettes, feel like reading a newspaper, budget-athens.gr. port: 210 3534011. and from the airport on metro or suburban railway (€6
craving for a chocolate, need a condom, or worst of SAS Vouliagmenis 85, Gly fada/Airpor t: 210 each way - €10 return).
all, someone stole your In Your Pocket guide at 5 in the Europcar Tel. 210 2882151, fax 210 2882050, 3530373. If you want to use the bus to and from the airport (€3.20
morning? No worries, here is where you’ll find 24-hour info@batek-europcar.gr, www.europcar.com.gr Singapore Airlines Kallirois 103, tel. 210 3728000/ each way) you’re probably better off buying the weekly
kiosks: Airport: 210 3531259. ticket and pay for the airport bus separately. This will
Hertz Tel. 210 6264000, fax 210 6264409, Swiss Sorou 18-20, Marousi, tel. 210 6175320/Airport: cost you just €1.40 more but you’ll get a week’s worth
Kolonaki Sq. H5 Mavili Sq. K4 www.hertz.gr 210 3530382. of transport rather than just three days.
Syntagma Sq. G5 Omonia Sq. E3 Thai El. Venizelou 32, Glyfada, tel. 210 9692020/210 The three-day ticket is also valid on the neglected and
Kanigos Sq. F2 Ag Assomaton Sq. C5 National Tel. 210 3493428, fax 210 3493417, 3531237. depressing sightseeing bus 400 (€5) If you go for it
reservations@nationalcar.gr, www.nationalcar.gr Turkish Athens International Airport, tel. 210 3537280/ chances are that you’ll be alone on the bus.
Airport: 210 3530401.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

82 getting AroUnd shoPPing 83

Ferry Schedule Spending guide

From Piraeus to: Days Dep.
Here you are in Athens, this sprawling, chaotic, enticing style labels (some of which designed by well-known graf-
Siros-Tinos-Mykonos / HS 1234567 7:25
city, with its rough-hewn lively urban character, wonder- fiti artists).
Siros-Tinos-Mykonos / HS –––4567 17:15
ing where to head off shopping. Let us give you a few Oh, and as regards local colour, don’t miss out on a walk
Paros-Naxos-Santorini/BS 1234567 7:25
insiders’ tips… though the bristling Monastiraki Flea Market (great for
Siros-Tinos-Mykonos /BS 12–4567 7:35
First of all, and take our word for it, you’ll need to keep shop collectors’ items, vintage records and other quirky items
Kithnos-Serifos-Sifnos-Milos- 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 7:25
Kimolos/GA opening hours in mind. Although opening hours are officially and memorabilia) and the colourful Athens’ Central Market
Paros-Naxos/HS 1234567 7:30 unregulated from Monday to Saturday (on Sundays all (we recommend you purchase some local herbs here -
Ios-Santorini/HS 1234567 7:15 shops except pastry shops, wine and spirits shops, flower there’s a very wide selection available at great prices).
Santorini-Rethymno –2–––6– 15:45 shops and emergency pharmacies, are closed), you’ll find At the opposite end of the spectrum, Kolonaki caters
Paros-Naxos/HS 1234567 16:30 that most businesses (with the exception of large depart- to those after some sophisticated, upmarket chic (at the
Siros-Tinos-Mykonos /HS 12–4567 17:15 ment stores) adhere to the following opening hours: appropriate price, of course).
Paros-Naxos-Iraklia-Shinousa- – – 3 – 5 – 7 17:30 Mon, Wed, Sat: 09:00-15:00. Then again, if you’re the department-store type of shop-
Koufonisi-Amorgos-BS Tue, Thu, Fri: 09:00-14:30 & 17:00-20:30. per, you’ll have to choose between a few really impressive
Paros-Naxos-Amorgos- 1–––––– 17:30 OSE train in northern Greece VK All shops close on National Holidays. Souvenir shops and department stores. (See our list).
convenience stores operating around tourist sites are gen- Finally, some useful shopping tips before you set off:
Astipalea/BS
Syros-Paros-Naxos-Donousa- –2 – 4 – 6 – 17:30
Trains erally open longer hours, usually 09:00-23:00 every day. Credit cards: All major international credit cards are
Amorgos-Astipalea/BS The Greek rail network is one of the smallest in Europe. Now that we’ve sorted when to shop, time to tackle the accepted in all large stores, as well as in boutiques. They
Siros-Ikaria-Samos-HS 1234––– 13:00 In fact, there is one main line to the north of the country next question: where to shop. may not be accepted in family-run businesses or local
Siros-Ikaria-Samos-HS ––––5–– 16:00 and another to the Peloponnese. The mountainous neighbourhood stores, so in those establishments it is
Paros-Naxos-Kalimnos-Kos- 1 – 3 – – – – 15:00 landscape of the country does not allow for an extensive A visit to the charming Plaka district, apart from some best to double-check. Most Greeks pay for their purchases
Nisiros-Tilos-Rodos/BS network but the truth is that the railway never featured rather kitsch souvenir shops, will also reward you with in plastic, which accounts for the proliferation of credit
Chios-Mytilini/NEL 12345–7 19:00 among Greek governments' top priorities. Only over the great traditional arts and crafts shops that are well worth schemes available, as well as for the very large amounts
Siros-Kos-Rodos/BS 1––4––– 19:00 last twenty years, there has been an effort to modernise a visit (we give you some ideas in our listings section). On of debt incurred by many Greek households.
Serifos-Sifnos-Milos/HS 12–4567 18:00 and upgrade the standards of the rail services and as a the other hand, if it’s a more all-encompassing shopping Sales: Winter sales run during the period from middle to
Kalimnos-Kos-Rodos/BS –2–4––– 18:00 result the travel time between Athens and Thessaloniki is experience you’re after, a good bet is to head to Ermou end- January up to mid-February (maximum five weeks’
Syros-Patmos-Leros-Kos- –– 3–––– 19:00 now less than five hours. However, for the rail journey lov- Street (starting from Syntagma Square and culminating duration). Summer sales run during the period from mid-July
Rodos/BS ers, Greek railways are not short of scenic routes, some in Monastiraki). This is a great shopping spree destina- up to the end of August at the latest.
Heraklio/ANEK 1234567 20:30 of them otherwise inaccessible. Every train departs tion, as it’s conveniently pedestrianised and offers a very
Heraklio/ML 1234567 21:00 Athens from Larisis station (Metro: Stathmos Larisis) wide selection of mainstream consumer goodies: clothes, Local shopping culture: Greeks tend to be big spend-
Chania/Anek 1234567 21:00 OSE Sina 6 (Central tickets office), tel. 1110, www. jewelry, shoes, cosmetics, gift shops (yes, you guessed it, ers and great fans of branded items, generally sporting
Paros/BS ––––5–7 21:00 ose.gr. The Greek railways state monopoly. No online Ermou Street is mainly a ladies’ shopping haven). designer sunglasses and top of the range mobile phones
Paros-Naxos-Ios-Sikinos- –––––6– 15:00 booking. But the lower end of Ermou Street, towards the seedier as essential accessories, with a concurrent tendency to
Folegandros-Santorini-Anafi/ Monastiraki area, is a different story. Head here for accumulate rather large credit card bills as well. In short,
GA urban wear, so you can deck yourself out in original street you’re in a true shopping-lovers’ city. Enjoy!
Kithnos-Serifos-Sifnos- –2–4––– 15:00
Kimolos-Milos-Folegandros- Train schedule
Sikinos-Ios-Santorini-Anafi
Patmos-Leros-Kos-Rodos/BS – – – – – 6 – 23:55
From Athens To Athens Clothes Notos Galleries Aiolou 99, MOmonia, www.notos-
Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.
Ferry companies 6:50-IC 12:21 THESSALONIKI 1:51-IC 6:45 Prime-Timers Ifaistou 12, MMonastiraki, tel. 210 galleries.gr. A standard department store primarily selling
7:54-ICEX 12:09 THESSALONIKI 7:24-ICEX 11:39 3242972, www.prime-timers.gr The top chain for street clothes and satisfiying most of the consumption needs of
ANEK LINES Akti Kondyli 22, Pireaus, tel. Domes- 9:21 15:03 THESSALONIKI 7:35 14:06 fashion in Athens. Young Athenians go crazy for their ex- the modern Athenian.
tic:210 4197420/International:210 4197430, boo- 10:51-IC 15:50 THESSALONIKI 10:13-IC 15:20 clusively imported brands like WeSC, BENCH, RINGSPUN, Notos Home Kratinou 5, Kotzia Sq, MOmonia, tel.
king@anek.gr, www.anek.gr. Ferry connections between 13:21-IC 18:31 THESSALONIKI 11:40-IC 16:42 SIXPACK, HOOCH , FREESOUL etc as well as exclusive Levi’s 210 3743000, www.notosgalleries.gr. This is a one stop
Piraeus - Crete and Greece - Italy 14:53 20:55 THESSALONIKI 12:43 18:18 Adidas and Converse collections. shop for young couples setting up their new home. Furniture,
16:51 23:44 THESSALONIKI 14:54-IC 19:49 electrical appliances and even a travel agency cater to every
Blue Star Ferries Amalias 30, tel. 210 8919800,
bluestarferries@bluestarferries.com, www.bluestarfer-
19:29-IC 23:44
20:39-IC 02:01
THESSALONIKI
THESSALONIKI
16:29 22:46
19:01-IC 23:16 Collectors Items self-respecting wedding list.
The Mall , MNerantziotissa, www.themallathens.
ries.com. Ferry connections from Piraeus to Cyclades and 22:55-SL 06:26 THESSALONIKI 23:03-SL 5:46 Collectors shop Stadiou 44 (Stoa Arsakeiou 10), gr. This shopping centre with the imaginative name is the
Dodekanese 23:59-SL 07:18 THESSALONIKI 23:39-SL 6:12 MOmonia, tel. 210 3318248, fax 210 3318249, info@ biggest shopping complex in the wider Athens area. If you
ALEXANDROU- collector-shop.com, www.collector-shop.com. Mr Syvr- have a whole day to spend shopping then head for this out-
6:50-IC 17:16 POLIS 0:51 14:06
Hellenic Seaways , tel. 210 4199000, www.helle- idakis is an expert dealer of rare Greek coins, banknotes and of-town temple of consumption. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat
nicseaways.gr. High speed ferry connections to the Saronic ALEXANDROU- stamps. In his shop you’ll find huge collections which can also 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. PTALK
16:51 5:50 6:42-IC 16:42
islands and Cyclades POLIS be purchased from his excellent on-line shop.
ALEXANDROU- Tarasouleas Stadiou 10, MSyntagma, tel. 210
20:39-IC 6:58 15:22 5:46
Minoan Lines 25th August St. 17, Heraklion, Crete, tel. POLIS
ALEXANDROU-
3255564, fax 210 3221440. Mr Tarasouleas is an author- Electronics, Computers & Gadgets
210 4145700, info@minoan.gr, www.minoan.gr. Ferry 23:59-SL 13:18 20:32-IC 6:45 ity in numismatics and in his shop you’ll find rare greek coins,
POLIS
connections between Piraeus - Crete and Greece - Italy 22:55 12:40 SOFIA 17:00 6:12 banknotes and a large collection of stamps. fnac , w w w.fnac.gr. A world of
electronics, music and books at un-
NEL Lines Astigos 2, Pireaus, tel. 210 4115015, To
sales@nel.gr, www.nel.gr. Connections to Lesvos, Chios
From
THESSALONIKI THESSALONIKI Department Stores beatable prices. Buy a new camera,
print your photos or simply browse
and the Cyclades Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr. Attica Panepistimiou 9, City Link, MSyntagma, tel. the latest technology. Mitropoleos
16:15-SL 5:06 BELGRADE 22:20-SL 13:07 211 1802600, fax 211 1802698, www.atticadps. & Aiolou st MMonastiraki, The Mall
Superfast Ferries Karamanli 157, Voula, tel. 210 19:58-SL 7:45 ISTANBUL 20:30-SL 8:17 gr. Upmarket department store,the biggest in the city. All Athens MNeratziotisa, S.Karagiorga
8919509, www.superfast.com. Blue Star's international 6:26 12:40 SOFIA 6:55 13:00 top brands priced accordingly. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat & Lazaraki st, Glyfada
sister company connects Greece and Italy and also Scotland 17:48 23:55 SOFIA 17:00 23:39 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. PTJAGK
and Belgium

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

84 shoPPing shoPPing 85

Monastiraki Flea Market Ifestou & surrounding

Gifts & Souvenirs Market values streets, MMonastiraki. It has lost some of its old days
Benaki Museum Gift Shop Koumbari 1, Kolonaki, € $ £
charm as modern shops have replaced the stalls, but it re-
MSyntagma, tel. 210 367 1000, fax 210 367 1063, mains the absolute Athenian open-air, vibrant, people-packed,
the-shop@benaki.gr, www.benaki.gr/museumshop/en. Mc Donald’s Big Mac 3.20 3.90 2.69 shopping/haggling experience. Head here if you are looking
A tasteful selection of replicas of ancient Greek and Byzantine Kg of white bread 0.75 0.91 0.63 for antiques, collectors’ items, vintage clothing, old music
art, as well as an interesting selection of jewelry, prints, ce- Snickers bar 0.60 0.73 0.50 records and books, homeware, leatherwear and souvenirs.
ramics, antiques, religious icons and books. QOpen 09:00 0.7L of vodka 16.00 19.50 13.44 QOpen 07:00 - 15:00.
- 17:00, Thu 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Tue. 0.5L bottle of beer 1.10 1.34 0.92
Kombologadiko H5, Koumbari 6, Kolonaki. This spe- 20 Marlboros 3.80 4.64 3.19
cialty shop offers all kinds of rosary beads, known as ‘kom- Public transport ticket 1.00 1.22 0.84 Natural Cosmetics
bologia’ - in Greece they are used for pleasure and for aiding Cinema ticket 8.00 9.76 6.72 Apivita G4, Solonos 26, Kolonaki, www.apivita.com. A
concentration and are especially favoured by older men. It is Exchange rates (as of 28.05.2010): full series of natural cosmetics produced with propolis, honey,
also recommended against stress and, believe it or not, as EUR=1.22USD EUR=0.84 GBP royal jelly, rosemary, green tea and fruits. Greek products that
an aid for quitting smoking. A gift with many uses… make perfect gifts for anyone back home.
Melissinos, The poet-sandalmaker Agias Theklas 2, Korres, www.korres.com. Started as a homeopathic
Psirri, MMonastiraki, Thissio, tel. 210 3219247, info@ Eleftheroudakis Panepistimiou 17, MPanepistimio, pharmacy, Korres now produces more than 500 skin and hair
melissinos-poet.com, /www.melissinos-poet.com. Fancy tel. 210 322938, elebooks@books.gr, www.books.gr. care herbal products, sold in more than 30 countries.Greek
a pair of hand-made ancient Greek sandals made by a world Expats’ favourite hang out, this 7 storey bookshop boasts a women love them as they are 100% natural.
famous...poet? Stavros Melissinos has crafted sandals for large English section with all the paperbacks you’re likely to
celebrities like the Beatles, Jackie Kennedy, Sofia Loren and
has featured in newspaper articles all over the world. He runs
wish for before you head to the beach and then some.
Fashion Bookstore F5, Thisseos 6. An interesting Second hand
his workshop together with his son, an artist. little bookshop selling exclusively fashion magazines from American Markets . Ermou 30, D5, 2nd floor tel. 210
National Archaeological Museum Gift Shop Pati- around the world. 3217870, Ermou 48, D5, 1st flor tel. 210 3215740,
sion (28th October) 44, MVictoria, tel. 210 8217724, Librairie Kauffmann (French Bookshop) Stadiou 28, Sofokleous 19, E3, 1st floor tel. 210 3217051
fax 210 8213573. Recently refurbished and expanded, it of- MPanepistimio, Syntagma, tel. 210 3255321, fax 210 Yesterday’s Bread Kallidromiou 87, Exarchia, tel. 210
fers a wide selection of replicas of ancient artifacts, as well as 3230320, kauffmann.stadiou@yahoo.gr, www.kauff- 8811233. Imported second hand clothes.
a comprehensive collection of guide books on ancient Greece. mann.gr. A historic bookshop supplying local francophones
An interesting selection of gift ideas and memorabilia is also
available. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00, Mon 13:00 - 19:00.
since an era when French was the foreign language of choice
among educated Greeks. Shoes
Road Travel Bookstore Solonos 71, MPanepistimio, Camper Ermou 34, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3216709.
tel. 210 3613242, fax 210 3614681, bookstore@road.
Greek designers gr, www.road.gr. This excellent travel bookshop belongs to
The world’s grooviest shoes!
Kalogirou H5, Patriarchou Ioakim 4, Kolonaki. The
Celia Kritharioti F6, Dedalou 8, Plaka. Internationally ac- the top Greek cartography company Road, which is our map ultimate fashionable shoe shop, with top international labels
claimed Greek designer, her creations are feminine, sensuous supplier. A visit here is essential before any excursion to the as well as its own-brand discerning designs. A must-visit
and elegant. She is also well known for her wedding gowns and countryside, where you’ll have a huge choice between their destination for all shoe afficionados.
lovely sequined and hand-embroidered garments, many of top quality maps covering every last corner of the country, Mastiha Shop G5, Panepistimiou & Kriezotou and Ath-
which are strewn with semi-precious stones and crystals. their state of the art GPS system and all international travel ens Airport, www.mastihashop.gr. All mastiha products
Ioanna Kourbela F6, Adrianou 109 & Hatzimichali guides series.If you mention you’re an In Your Pocket reader, Supermarkets brought to you by the association of Chios mastic growers.
12, Plaka, www.kourbelaioanna.gr. Innovative fashion the bookshop’s experienced staff will happily give you an AB Vassilopoulos www.ab.gr. Supermarkets are rare These exclusively Greek product makes the ideal gift to
designer Ioanna Kourbela takes the national body conscious extra discount. in downtown Athens, they tend to concentrate in residential bring home if you want to avoid an ‘ouzo power’ t-shirt! Try
image to a whole different level with a barrage of billowing areas. Some central branches of the best supermarket chain the natural chewing gum and the sweet liquor. A full range of
fabrics twinned with creative layering, seeking to showcase
the female form in a completely different way to what we’re Jewellery AB Vassilopoulos can be found at the following addresses:
-Vouliagmenis 67 & Menonos, Mets, F8
natural cosmetics is also available.
Mesogaia F6, Nikis & Kydathineon 52, Plaka. Delica-
accustomed.. Zolotas G5, Panepistimiou 10, Stadiou 9, www.zolotas. -Marni 24, E1 -Spyrou Merkouri 38, Pangrati, J6 -Keiriadon & tessen selling delicious local speciality foods from around
Loukia H5, Kanari 24, Kolonaki. Unique designer label gr. Fine jewellers since 1895. Inspired by classic Greek art, Sfiton, Petralona, A6 -Mavromichali 157 & Digeni Akrita, I1 Greece, such as extra-virgin olive oil, the local spirit, “raki”,
that manages to exude an aura of romance, unconventional their creations are objects of desire for every female with QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. a diverse array of cheeses and a fragrant selection of wild
creative originality and theatrical extravaganza, all in one. fine taste and finesse. If a knickknack souvenir is not your herbs.
Loukia’s clothes are simultaneously reminiscent of a fairy cup of tea and you have a corresponding bank balance,
Sweets
tale princess, with flamboyant tulle, ruffles, laces and
embroideries, as well as an outspokenly subversive-yet-
then walk in one of their posh boutiques and spoil yourself
or your beloved. Aristokratikon F5, Karageorgi Servias 9. The city’s Traditional Instruments
glamorous diva, confident enough to pull off these exciting premier sweets and pastries emporium, with an extensive Iapetos D4, Louka Nika 14, Psirri, MThissio, Monas-
creations in style. tiraki, tel. 210 3225963, www.karellas.gr. A workshop
Parthenis H4, Dimokritou & Tsakalof 20, Kolonaki. Markets array of delicious hand-crafted sweets and chocolates, made
with the finest local ingredients. producing handmade traditional musical instruments. Prices
Casual chic designer label, offering sophisticated garments Athens Central Market (Varvakeios) Athinas Street are high but your bouzouki will be of the highest quality. On
(between Evripidou & Sofocleous Streets), MMonasti-
using exclusively natural fibres for those who opt for style
and comfort in one. Orsalia Parthenis’ creations can aptly raki, Omonia. An extravaganza of sights, smells and sounds, Tattoo & Piercing line orders too.

Black Rose D4, Pallados 16, Psirri, MMonastiraki,

be characterised as unaffected and simple, yet quintessen-
tially elegant.
here you will be treated to a very wide selection of spices,
herbs, cheeses, olives, meats, fish and all sorts of gastro- tel. (+30) 210 3238610, www.blackroseta2.gr. If you Wines & Spirits
nomical delights. Take a pick from the wonderful selection of are up for a permanent souvenir from Athens, then head to Wine Garage I4, Xenokratous 25, Kolonaki, tel. 210
7213175, info@winegarage.gr, www.winegarage.gr.
International Bookshops nuts, herbs and dried fruits - you will be hard pressed to find
these back home. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Black Rose, one of the top tattoo and piercing studios in the
centre of the city. Professional art work, safety and hygiene Greek wines are much better than you may think and if you
Compendium Nikis 28, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3221248, Fruit & Vegetable street markets (Laiki markets) are guaranteed. want to bring a few bottles back home, in this excellent shop
compendium@otenet.gr. An independent English language Every Athenian neighbourhood has its own open air fruit and you’ll find a huge selection of Greek and world labels, expert
bookshop in Plaka. Literature, newspapers, magazines veg market on a specific day of the week. Licenced produc- Traditional Food Products advice and prices to make you smile.
Deutsche Buchhandlung (German Bookshop) ers bring their fresh goodies from their farms to the big city
Stadiou 10 & Omirou 4, MPanepistimio, Syntagma, tel. neighbourhoods. Prices start high in the morning but in true Gaea Products, www.gaea.gr. Greek traditional products
210 3225294, fax 2103232289, sales@dbo.gr, www. market fashion get really low towards midday. of exceptional quality and many international awards. Extra €1 = £0.84
dbo.gr. German books are not widely available in Athens One of the best and well worth pottering around is in Kal- virgin olive oil, olives, and dips to take home with you. Available (May 28 2010)
but this excellent buchhandlung perfectly covers the needs lidromiou St. Exarchia, every Saturday morning. in large supermarkets and the airport duty free shops.
of German locals and travellers.
Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010
86 direCtory direCtory 87

Embassies Banks Business services Italian Cultural Institute Patission 47, MVictoria,
tel. 210 5242646, fax 210 5242714, www.iicatene.
Alpha Bank Stadiou 40, tel. 2103260000. esteri.it.
Adecco Kifisias 56, tel. 210 6930490, www.adecco.
Albania Vekiar eli 7, Filothei, tel. 210 ATE Bank Panepistimiou 23, tel. 210 3298911. gr. HR and recruitment business services
6876200.
Government
Australia Kifisias 1-3, tel. 210 8704000. Bank of Greece (Central Bank) Panepistimiou 21, Dowlings Solicitors Kifisou 19, Nea Kifisia, tel. 210 Parliament Vasilissis Sofias 2, tel. 210 3707000, info@
tel. 210 3201111, www.bankofgreece.gr. 8076575, www.dowlings.gr. English Solicitors operating parliament.gr, www.parliament.gr.
Austria Vas.Sofias 4, tel. 210 7257270. in Greece, specialising in Greek property, management and
Belgium Sekeri 3, Kolonaki, tel. 210 BNP Paribas Vasilissis Sofias 94, tel. 210 7468000. related taxation issues. Prime Minister Irodou Attikou 19, www.primemin-
3617886. ister.gr.
Bulgaria Stratigou Kallari St, Psyhiko, tel. Citibank Achaias 3, Kifisia, tel. 210 8186000. Fair Consulting F5, Lekka 23-25, MSyntagma, tel.
210 3232633, fax 210 3232664, info@fairconsulting.
210 6748106.
Eurobank Amalias 20, tel. 210 9555000. gr, www.fairconsulting.gr. Claims management, loss ap- Greek language courses
Canada Ioannou Gennadiou 4, tel. 210 praisals and insurance settlements negotiations. Athens Centre Archimidous 48, tel. 210 7012268,
7273400. HSBC Mesogion 109, tel. 210 6962100. info@athenscentre.gr, www.athenscentre.gr. A private
Cyprus Herodotou 16, tel. 210 7237883. FC&D Zisimopoulou 16, Psichiko, tel. 210 6930780, institute offering lessons in modern Greek and also business
Czech Republic Seferi 6, Psichiko, tel. 210 Mar f in Egnatia Bank Zef yr ou 56, tel. 210 www.fcd.gr. Franchise consultancy in the Greek and inter- Greek, Greek culture, theatre, poetry etc
6719701. 9304811. national markets.
University of Athens Modern Greek Language
Denmark Vas.Sofias 11, tel. 210 7256440. National Bank Eolou 86, tel. 210 3341000. Global Business Services Kifisias 90, tel. 210 Teaching Centre, University Campus, Ilissia, tel. 210
France Vas.Sofias 7, tel. 210 3391000. 8764876, www.gbs.gr. Furnished, equipped and serviced 7277672, nglt.info@nglt.uoa.gr, www.nglt.uoa.gr.
Germany Karaoli & Dimitriou 3, Kolonaki, tel. Piraeus Bank Amerikis 4, tel. 210 3335000. offices for as long as you need them. Modern Greek lessons organised by the University of Ath-
210 7285111. ens. All year, summer and intensive classes and reasonable
Hungary Karneadou 25, tel. 210 7256800. Postal Savings Bank Pesmazoglou 2-6, tel. 210 International Business Services Michalakopoulou tuition fees.
3704000. 29, tel. 210 7245541, www.ibs-ltd.gr. Translation, HR,
China Krinon 2A, Psichiko, tel. 210
6723282.
conference and consultancy services to traveling business-
International Schools
Ireland Vasileos Konstantinou 5-7, tel. 210 Business connections men and foreign companies entering the Greek market
American Community Schools of Athens (ACS
7232771. Kantor Omirou & Vissarionos 1, tel. 210 7297500, Athens) Agias Paraskevis 129, Ano Halandri, tel. 210
Israel Marathonodromou 1, Psichiko, tel. 210 American-Hellenic Chamber of Commerce Meso- www.kantor.gr. Business consultants with an international 6393200, fax 210 6390051, www.acs.gr.
gion 109, tel. 210 6993559, www.amcham.gr. presence.
6719530. Byron College 7 Filolaou St, Gargitos Geraka, tel. 210
Italy Sekeri 2, Kolonaki, tel. 210 3617260. Athens Exchange Athinon 110, tel. 210 3366800, KPMG Stratigou Tombra 3, Agia Paraskevi, tel. 210 6047722, fax 210 6048542, www.byroncollege.gr.
Japan Papadiamanti 21, Psichiko, tel. 210 www.ase.gr. 6062100, www.kpmg.gr. Auditing, accounting, business
6709900. consultancy, the global way. Campion School Agias Ioulianis, Pallini, tel. 210
Netherlands Vasileos Konstantinou 5-7, tel. Athens Chamber of Commerce and Industry 6071700, fax 210 6071750, www.campion.edu.gr.
Akadimias 7-9, tel. 210 3604815, www.acci.gr. Manpower Xenofontos 9, tel. 210 3240200, www.
210 7254900. manpowerteam.gr. Recruitment services by the global Ellinogermaniki Agogi (German) Doukisis Plakentias
Nor way Vasilissis Sof ias 23, tel. 210 Athens Tourism & Economic Development Com- experts. 25, Halandri, tel. 210 6853220, fax 210 6821953, www.
7246173. pany G6, Xenofontos 7, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3253123, ellinogermaniki.gr.
Poland Chryssanthemon 22, Psichiko, tel. fax 210 3216653, info@atedco.gr. Sarantitis Law Firm Anagnostopoulou 9, tel. 210
210 6797700. 3670400, www.sarantitis.com. A legal firm specialising French-Greek School Trikalon & Chlois, Agia Paraske-
British Hellenic Chamber of Commerce Vasilissis in all areas of business law vi, tel. 210 6012704.
Romania Emmanouil Benaki 7, Psichiko, tel. Sofias 25, tel. 210 7210361, www.bhcc.gr.
210 6728875. SOL SA Fokionos Negri 3, tel. 210 8691100, www. International School of Athens (ISA) Xenias &
Russia Nikiforou Lytra 28, Psichiko, tel. 210 General Secretariat for Investment and Develop- solae.gr. The largest Greek accounting & auditing firm with Artemidos, Kefalari, Kifissia, tel. 210 6233888, info@
6725235. ment Nikis 5-7, tel. 210 3332402, www.ggea.gr/ offices all over the country isa.edu.gr, www.isa.edu.gr
Serbia Vasilissis Sof ias 106, tel. 210 index_en.htm.
Italian School Mitsaki 18, tel. 210 2280338, www.
7774344. German-Hellenic Chamber of Commerce and Foreign Institutes scuolaitalianathene.edu.gr.
Slovakia Georgiou Seferi 4, Psichiko, tel. 210 Industry Dorileou 10-12, tel. 210 6419000, http://
6771980. griechenland.ahk.de/. British Council Kolonaki Sq, MSyntagma, Evange- Polish Community School Navarinou 19, Holargos,
South Africa Kifisias 60, Marousi, tel. 210 lismos, tel. 210 3692333, fax 210 3634769, www. tel. 210 6538204.
6106645. Hellenic-Dutch Association of Commerce and In- britishcouncil.gr.
dustry Kifisou 102, tel. 210 5384177, www.heda.gr. St Catherine’s British Embassy School Sofokli
Spain Dionysiou Areopagitou 21, tel. 210 Cervantes Institute Skoufa 31, tel. 210 3634117, fax Venizelou 73, Kifisia, tel. 210 2829750, administrator@
9213123. Hellenic-Chinese Chamber Amerikis 10, tel. 210 210 3647233, dirate@cervantes.es. stcatherines.gr, www.stcatherines.gr.
Sweden Vasileos Konstantinou 5-7, tel. 210 3629052, www.chinese-chamber.gr/.
7266100. French Institute Sina 31, MPanepistimio, tel. 210 Real estate
Switzerland Iasiou 2, tel. 210 7230364. Hellenic Center for Investment Mitropoleos 3, tel. 3398600, fax 210 3646873, www.ifa.gr.
210 3355700, www.elke.gr. Remax Hellas Adrianiou 42, Neo Psichiko, tel. 210
Turkey Vasileos Geor giou 8, tel. 210 Goethe Institute Omirou 15, MPanepistimio, tel. 210 6753417, info@remax.gr, www.remax.gr.
7263000. Hellenic Foreign Trade Board Marinou Antipa 86-88, 3661000, fax 210 3643518, gi@athen.goethe.org,
UK Ploutarhou 1, tel. 210 7272600. Ilioupoli, tel. 210 9982100, www.hepo.gr. www.goethe.de/athen.
USA Vasilissis Sofias 91, tel. 210 7212951-
Hellenic Ministy of Economy and Finance Nikis 5-7, Hellenic American Union Massalias 22, Kolonaki, €1 = $1.22
9. (May 28 2010)
tel. 210 3332000, www.mnec.gr/en. MPanepistimio, tel. 210 3680000, fax 210 3633174,
hau@hau.gr, www.hau.gr.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

88 direCtory mAPs 89

Hospitals
Public Accidents’ Hospitals
Asklipieio Voulas Vasileos Pavlou 1,Voula, tel. 210
8958301.

KAT Nikis 2, Kifisia, MKAT, tel. 210 6280000.

Public General Hospitals
Evangelismos Ypsilantou 45-47, MEvangelismos,
tel. 210 7201000.

Geniko Kratiko ‘Gennimatas’ Mesogion 154,

MEthniki Amyna, tel. 210 7768000.

Ippokratio Vasilissis Sofias 114, MAmpelokipi, tel.

210 7483770.

Laiko A giou Th oma 17, MAmpelokipi, tel. 210

7456000.

Tzanio Afen touli & Tzani 1, Pira eu s, tel. 210

4519411.

Public Children’s Hospitals

Agia Sofia Thivon & Papadiamandopoulou, Goudi,
tel. 210 7726000.

Aglaia Kyriakou Thivon & Levadias, Goudi, tel. 210

7726000.
Athens metro map
Maternity Hospitals
Travel Agencies
Alexandra Vasilissis Sofias 80, MMegaro Mousikis,
tel. 210 7750432. Viamare E8, Missaraliotou 2, Makrigianni, MAcropolis,
tel. 210 9228930-2, fax 210 9228940, info@allyeart-
Elena Venizelou Elena Venizelou Sq, MAmpelokipi, ravel.gr, www.allyeartravel.gr. This is a small independent
tel. 210 6432220. travel agency run by young people who will go out of their way
to satisfy all your travel needs around the country. Accom- TRAVEL
Iaso Kifisias 37-39, tel. 210 6184000. modation, tours & cruises, sightseeing, ferry tickets and last BOOKSTORE
but not least: objective and independent advice.
Leto Mouson 7-13, tel. 210 6902000.
Get inspired to explore!
Mitera Ki fisias 7 Eri throu Stavrou 6, tel. 210
6899421. Learn Greek online: It’s free! roAd travel bookstore offers a great variety
www.ellinika.org of maps & travel guides for every corner of
the planet.
www.xanthi.ilsp.gr/filog
Removals
Mondial Forwarding Hellas 20th km National road take advantage of the 20% discount offer
Athens-Korinthos, Elefsina, tel. 210 5540907, www. for the readers of Athens In your Pocket
mondialtransport.com.
Emergency numbers (applies to ROAD Editions titles only)
Orphee Beinoglou Syngrou & Evripidou 2, Kallithea,
tel. 210 9466100, www.beinoglou.gr. Aiport Police 210 3536919.
Ambulance 166.
Coast Guard 108.
Sailing Charter Companies ELPA (roadside assistance) 10400. 71, solonos street
Kiriakoulis Mediterranean Alimou 7, Alimos, tel. 210 Fire Service 199. tel: 210 3613242
9886187-91, fax 210 9818979, charter@kiriacoulis. Hospitals, Doctors, Pharmacies Info 14944. fax: 210 3614681
com, www.kiriacoulis.com. Police 100. www.road.gr
SOS Doctors 1016. e-mail: bookstore@road.gr
Vernicos Yachts Poseidonos 11, Alimos, tel. 210 Tourist Police 171.
9896000, fax 210 9850130, info@vernicos.gr, www. Traffic Police 210 5230111.
vernicos.com.

Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com athens.inyourpocket.com June - July 2010

map 1
96 in yoUr PoCKet gUides
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Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com

98 index
ABI 81 Booze 52 Galaxy Bar 55 KTEL departure info 80 Postal Museum 73
AB Vassilopoulos 85 Boschetto 48 Gallery Café 52 Kuzina 43 Postal Savings Bank 86
Achilleas 34 British Council 87 Gazaki 56 Lalibela 42 Potopolion 56
Acropolis Museum Hotel 36 British Chamber of Com. 86 GB Corner 48 Lalu 41 President 36
Acropolis Select 36 Bulgaria 86 General Secretariat Lamda Club 62 Presidential Palace 75
Adecco 87 Buses and Trolleybuses 79 for Investment and La Pasteria 46 Prime Minister 87
Aegean 81 Butcher 47 Development 86 Ledra Marriott 33 Psaro-kokkalo 44
Agion Asomaton Sq 31 Byron College 87 German-Hellenic Chamber of Lefteris (o Politis) 50 Railway Museum 73
Aglio Olio & Peperoncino 46 Byzantine Museum 70 Commerce and Industry 86 Livadia 50 Ratka 41
Aiolis 52 Camper 85 Germanos 83 L'osteria Da Claudio 46 Rebecca 51
Alatsi 42 Campion School 87 Germany 86 Magaze 53 Red Indian 40
Alcatraz 60 Canada 86 Gialiskari 51 Magna Grecia 35 Remax Hellas 87
Aleria 42 Canteen 48 Ginger Ale 52 Mai Tai 56 Resto 53
Alexander Sauna 62 Capu 55 Global Business Services 87 Mamacas 43 Revaizi 42
A Lier Man 54 Cecil 37 Glykis 49 ManiMani 43 Rififi 44
Alley Cat 54 Celia Kritharioti 84 Goethe Institute 87 Manpower 87 Romania 86
All Year Travel 88 Cellier Le Bistot 42 Goulandris Museum 70 Marfin Egnatia Bank 86 Royal Olympic 36
Alpha Bank 86 Central 41 Granazi 62 Meat Square 47 Russia 86
Ambariza 54 Cervantes Institute 87 Grande Bretagne 32 Melia Athens 35 Saint George Lycabettus 34
American Community Chez Lucien 42 Grand Ritorno 60 Melissinos 84 Salero 49
Schools of Athens 87 China 86 Habiba 40 Metropolis 38 Sapfo 62
American-Hellenic Chamber Church of Ag Theodoroi 74 Hard Rock Café 40 Micraasia 56 Sarantitis Law Firm 87
of Commerce 86 Church of Kapnikarea 74 Hellenic American Union 87 Molly Malone's 56 Sardeles 51
American Markets 85 Circus 55 Center for Investment 86 Mommy 41 Second Skin 58
Ancient Tastes 44 Citibank 86 Children's Museum 76 Mondial Forwarding Hellas 88 Semiramis 34
ANEK LINES 82 Classical 2, Fashion House Hellenic-Chinese Chamber 86 Mousses Club 60 Serbia 86
Apivita 85 Hotel 37 Hellenic-Dutch Association of Museum of Greek Folk Art 72 Seven Jokers 57
Arethusa 36 Classical Athens Imperial 34 Commerce and Industry 86 Museum Ancient Agora 72 Six D.O.G.S. 57
Aristokratikon 85 Classical BabyGrand Hotel 34 Foreign Trade Board 86 Mus.Musical Instruments 72 Skoufaki 53
Astir Palace 32 Classical George Palace 32 Hellenic Ministy of Economy Nargile 49 Sofitel Airport 34
ATE Bank 86 Club Hotel Casino Loutraki 32 and Finance 86 Archaeological Museum 70 South Africa 86
Athens Backpackers 38 Collectors shop 83 Hell's Kitchen 41 National Bank 86 Spain 86
Athens Central Market 84 Commonwealth cemetery 75 Hera 35 National Gardens café 53 Spyros Vassiliou Museum 73
Athens Centre 87 Compendium 84 Herodion 35 National Glyptotheque 72 Stavlos 53
Athens Chamber of Copa Copana 76 Hondos Center 83 National Historical Mus. 72 St Catherine's School 87
Commerce and Industry 86 Crowne Plaza 34 House of Parliament (Vouli) 74 National Theatre 75 Sweden 86
Athens City Hall 74 Cubanita 58 Hoxton 56 Natural History Museum 76 Swing 57
Athens Exchange 86 Czech Republic 86 HSBC 86 Naxos 49 Tapas Bar 57
Athens Hilton 32 Da Capo 52 Hungary 86 Netherlands 86 Taverna tou Psirri 45
Athens Lotus 37 Damigos (Bakaliarakia) 44 Iapetos 85 New Benaki Museum 72 Telis 47
Athens Metropolitan Diammond Dolls 60 Ilias 44 Niki 37 Temple of Olympian Zeus 67
Cathedral 74 Dioskouroi Café 52 Jewelry Museum 71 Nikitas 50 Thanassis 50
Athens Sports Bar 54 Dioskouros 38 Il postino 46 Nipiagogeio 56 The Athenian Callirhoe 36
Athens Stock Exchange 74 Divani Palace Acropolis 35 Inoteka 53 Nixon 56 The James Joyce 58
AthenStyle 38 Dorian Inn 37 In Town 48 Noiz Club 62 The National Gallery 73
Athinaios 47 Doris 44 Intrepid Fox 56 Norway 86 Tirbouson 44
Athiri 42 Dowlings Solicitors 87 Ioannis (Royal Olympic) 42 Numismatic Museum 73 Titania 36
Attalos 37 El Bandoneon 40 Ireland 86 OASA 80 To Kafeneio 45
Attica 83 Electra 35 Islamic Art Museum 71 O&B Boutique 33 Toy Bar 58
Attica Zoological Park 76 Electra Palace 33 Island 58 Observatory 75 Tram 79
Australia 86 Ellinogermaniki Agogi 87 Israel 86 O'Connell's 56 Travel Plan 88
Austria 86 En Delphis 55 Italy 86 Old House of Parliament 75 Triantafyllo tis nostimias 45
Avalon 40 EP16 38 Jackson Fish 51 Olive Garden (Titania ) 48 Tribeca 58
Baba Au Rum 54 Epigraphical Museum 70 Jackson Hall 40 Omiros 37 Trova 58
Baby Gold 60 Eridanus 35 Japan 86 Orizontes 48 Tudor Hall 46
Baby O 60 Esperia Palace 35 Jason Inn 37 Orphee Beinoglou 88 Turkey 86
Bairaktaris 50 Ethnikon 52 Jewish Museum 71 OSE (Greek Railways) info 80 Turkish Baths 75
Balthazar 41 Eurobank 86 Kafeneio Thissio 53 Ouzou Melathron 49 Tzitzikas and Mermigas 45
Bank Of Greece 74 Fair Consulting 87 Kanella 43 Pairidaeza 56 UK 86
Bank of Greece 86 Fasoli 42 Kantor 87 Palia Taverna tou Psara 44 USA 86
Bartesera 54 FC&D 87 Kappari 44 Pan 38 Venti 42
Belafonte 54 Ferries departure info 80 Kavouras 50 Pano Kato 47 Venue 58
Belgium 86 Filion 52 Kazarma 62 Parliament 87 Vernicos Yachts 88
Benaki Museum 70 First cemetry of Athens 75 Kerameikos Museum 71 Pasaji 48 Via Milioni 42
Benaki Museum Gift Shop 84 Fivos 38 Kioupia 44 Pasta la vista 46 Villa Mercedes 58
Big 62 Folli Follie 84 Kiriakoulis Mediterranean 88 Pedion tou Areos 78 Vinilio 58
Bios 54 Foundation of the Hellenic Klepsidra 53 Periscope 36 Wagamama 40
Bits and Bytes 80 World 76 Kona Kai 40 Piraeus Bank 86 Wine Garage 85
Black Rose 85 France 86 Kosta 50 Poland 86 Yantes 44
Blues 54 French-Greek School 87 Kostas 50 Polis 53 Zappeion 75
Blue Train Café 62 French Institute 87 KPMG 87 Polish Community School 87 Zappeion Garden 78
BNP Paribas 86 Fresh 35 Krinos 53 Pop 56 Zonar's 53

Tell us what you think We’re all ears!

about our guide:

athens@inyourpocket.com
Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com