Simply Tweedy Sweater Us
Simply Tweedy Sweater Us
Simply Tweedy Sweater Us
Simply Tweedy
Sweater
GAUGE
10 cm x 10 cm (4” x 4”) = 13 flt-hdc sts x 10 HASHTAGS FOR SOCIAL MEDIA
rows #hobbiisimplytweedy
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ABBREVIATIONS
ch = chain BUY THE YARN HERE
sp = space https://shop.hobbii.com/simply-tweedy-sweater
sk = skip
st = stitch
slst = slst
sc = single crochet
blo = back loop only
hdc = half double crochet
ftl = front two loops
sc2tog = single crochet decrease
RS/WS = Right side/Wrong side
{…} = shows end stitch count
*…* = repeat between **
QUESTIONS
If you have any questions regarding this pattern, please feel free to email us at
support@hobbii.com
Please make sure to include the pattern's name and number.
Happy Crafting!
Read the pattern from start to finish before starting to make sure you have a good
understanding of how the sweater is worked up.
Choose the size that is closest to your bust measurement. This is intended to be a tight fitted
garment, so if you prefer a looser fit, simply go up a size.
Info
Ch 1 at the start of the row does not count as a st throughout the pattern
Follow the instructions according to your size XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
Note
- Work into the back bumps of the chs
- After row 1, insert a stitch marker through the bar of any st to mark the right side of
your work. Shown in picture below
- The end st count at the end of each row for section 1 is 148 (150, 152, 154, 156, 158,
158, 160, 160)
Row 2: ch 1, 1 blo-sc in the next 8 sts, 1 ftl-hdc in the next 132 (134, 136, 138, 140, 142, 142,
144, 144) sts, 1 blo-sc in the next 8 sts, turn
Row 3 to row 11 (13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27): Repeat row 2, do not fasten off.
Notes
- The end st count at the end of each row for this section is 63 (64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 68,
69, 69)
Row 1: ch 1, 1 blo-sc in the next 8 sts, 1 ftl-hdc in the next 55 (56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 60, 61, 61)
sts, turn
Row 2: ch 1, 1 ftl-hdc in the next 55(56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 60, 61, 61) sts, 1 blo-sc in the next 8
sts, turn
Row 3 to row 17 (17, 17, 19, 19, 19, 19, 21, 21): Repeat rows 1 and 2, finishing on row 1.
Fasten off.
Notes
- The end st count at the end of each row for this section is 74 (75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 79,
80, 80)
On the wrong side, attach yarn in the ftl only in the 12th unworked st from where the neck
shaping finished, place 1 ftl-hdc in the same sts
Row 1: 1 ftl-hdc in the next 65 (66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 70, 71, 71) sts, 1 blo-sc in the next 8 sts,
turn
Row 2: ch 1, 1 blo-sc in the next 8 sts, 1 ftl-hdc in the next 66 (67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 71, 72, 72)
sts, turn
Row 3: ch 1, 1 ftl-hdc in the next 66 (67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 71, 72, 72) sts, 1 blo-sc in the next 8
sts, turn
Row 4 to row 17 (17, 17, 19, 19, 19, 19, 21, 21): Repeat rows 2 and 3, finishing on row 3,
turn
Picture shows the sweater RS facing, the left-hand side being the back of the sweater and the
right-hand side being the front of the sweater. The middle gap is the neck opening.
Notes
- The end stitch count at the end of each row for this section is 148 (150, 152, 154,
156, 158, 158, 160, 160)
Row 1: ch 1, 1 blo-sc in the next 8 sts, 1 ftl-hdc in the next 66 (67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 71, 72, 72)
sts, loosely ch 11, now work straight onto the front side and making sure your ch isn’t
twisted, 1 ftl-hdc in the next 55 (56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 60, 61, 61) sts, 1 blo-sc in the next 8 sts,
turn
Picture shows the chain 11 and the first ftl-hdc joining the back and front sides of the sweater
Row 2: ch 1, 1 blo-sc in the next 8 sts, 1 ftl-hdc in the next 55 (56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 60, 61, 61)
sts, place 1 hdc in the back bumps of each ch at the neckline (11 hdc), 1 ftl-hdc in the next
66 (67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 71, 72, 72) sts, 1 blo-sc in the next 8 sts, turn
Row 3: ch 1, 1 blo-sc in the next 8 sts, 1 ftl-hdc in the next 132 (134, 136, 138, 140, 142, 142,
144, 144) sts, 1 blo-sc in the next 8 sts, turn
Row 4 to row 12 (14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28): Repeat row 3, do not fasten off.
Starting from the bottom of the sweater, place a stitch marker in the 56th (56th, 56th, 55th, 54th,
53rd, 51st, 50th, 48th) st on all 4 sides
Seaming the left side with the front of the sweater faces you:
Picking up the loop from where you left off from section 4, slst through the back loop of the
first side and the corresponding front loop of the second side 8 times,
Now, slst through the two back loops of the first side and the two corresponding front loops
of the second side (picture to the right) up to the stitch markers. Do not work into the
marked sts. Fasten off. This method will give a smooth finish on the RS of the work.
Needles show the two back loops of the first side and the two front loops of the second side.
Seaming the right side as the front of the sweater faces you:
Attach yarn through the back loop of the first side at the bottom of the sweater, slst through
the back loop of the first side and the corresponding front loop of the second side until you
reach the stitch markers, do not work the marked stitches. Fasten off. The seam should look
the same on both the left and right side of the sweater.
Section 5 – Sleeves
Notes
- The end stitch count at the end of each round for this section is 38 (40, 42, 46, 50,
54, 58, 62, 66)
Row 3 to row 46 (46, 46, 46, 42, 42, 42, 42, 42) or until desired length of sleeve minus 5
cm / 1.7” for ribbing: Repeat row 1 and 2
Decrease round
Notes
- Work all stitches into the front two loops
- Do not fasten off after this round, move straight onto the sleeve ribbing
M – ch 1, *sc 1, sc2tog 1* 3 times, *sc 2, sc2tog 1* 6 times, *sc 1, sc2tog 1* 3 times, slst to
2XL – ch 1, sc2tog 2 times, *sc 1, sc2tog 2* 10 times, slst to first st to join {32}
3XL – ch 1, sc2tog 3, *sc 1, sc2tog 2* 10 times, sc2tog 1, slst to first st to join {34}
All sizes: Do not fasten off, move straight onto the sleeve ribbing.
Row 4 to row 46 (46, 46, 46, 42, 42, 42, 42, 42) or until desired length of sleeve minus 5
cm / 1.7”for ribbing: Repeat row 1 and 2.
Move onto the decrease round as for the left sleeve, and then onto the sleeve ribbing.
Notes
- ‘Base’ refers to the last round worked on the sleeves (the decrease round)
Ch 9
Row 1: Working back down the ch working into two loops of each ch, sk the first ch, sc 1 in
each of the next 8 chs, slst into the st you worked your ch 9 from, slst into the next
unworked st at the base, TURN {8 sc, 2 slst}
Picture shows where to place the slst’s. The green st marker shows my last st of the base round.
Row 3: ch 1, sc-blo 1 in the next 8 sts, slst into the next 2 unworked sts at the base, TURN, {8
sc, 2 slst}
Repeat rows 2 & 3 until you have worked into the last two unworked sts at the base, TURN,
sk the two slsts, sc-blo 1 in the next 8 sts, ch 1 {8 sc}
Now turn your sleeve inside out, you will be joining the ribbing together on the WS,
*Slst through the single loop from the beginning ch and the back loop of the
corresponding st* repeat 8 times so that all sts are worked, fasten off.
With the RS facing, attach yarn in the top right corner at the back
Round 1: Ch 1, place 1 sc in the next 11 sts down the side, evenly place 18 (18, 18, 20, 20,
20, 20, 22, 22) sc along the front edge (this should be 1 sc per row from working the main
body), 1 sc in the next 11 sts up the side, evenly place 18 (18, 18, 20, 20, 20, 20, 22, 22) sc
along the back edge (this should be 1 sc per row from working the main body), slst to the
first st to join,
Round 2: Ch 1, place 1 sc-blo in each st around, slst to the first st to join, fasten off.
Enjoy!